ABSTRACT The concentration of the study is on the international marketing strategy of marketing mix for jewelry industry. The enduring existence and growth of an enterprise rely upon the persistent pursuit of above-average return. Before invading the market, an elaborate strategic plan is essential in which marketing is the drafting of a well-knit and competitive strategic ¡uplanning¡vbefore action; Sales is the ¡uexecution¡vof selling. With this manner, an enterprise is able to maintain the competitive advantage and create the satisfactory profit that marketing is a science that is to be applied in this arena. In a case study of a company called ¡§S¡¨, they moved operations to Mainland China, prior to entering the Asian Pacific¡ÐAustralian Markets. How will this move help the company become competitive by their manufacturing advantages, develop overseas channels and the setup of an effective marketing strategy which can be implemented into the practical work, will be the motivation of the research. As the outset, the study focused on the marketing mix before entering the market. A questionnaire was carried out to investigate the marketing mix Australian exemplary companies and it will be based on the current situation in the industry to match the theoretical application on the market. The interview was also employed to complement and intensify the practical experience. In order to build up a constructive marketing strategy for ¡uS¡vcompany¡¦s reference. The out come from the research are: 1. By price¡Ðquality as the segmentation variables, the market segments will be high price & high quality, middle price & middle quality and high price & high quality for the market segment of consumers. 2. By the data analysis of demographic variables indicated that the best buying power consumer who with higher income. 3. The most concerning factors¡Bmotivating factors¡Bthe product type are significant related. And the product design preferences and brand name has significant differences. 4. The places for companies and consumer shows a significant related which the companies are mainly have their own outlets/stores for distribution channels¡Fconsumers are direct buying from the stores. 5. The advertising and the way of promotion are significant differences between companies and consumers. The companies are participate international trade show or sponsorship activities as the promotion¡Fconsumer received advertising and promotion are mainly by radio or TV media. In conclusion, based on the result of this research the suggestions are: use¡uhigh value strategy¡v to enter the market at beginning¡F product type in basic design and classic design as the leading products by the short term in OEM, mid term policy in ODM markets and the version for long term will be OBM¡Fthe distribution channel will be constructively large chain stores as the retailer in the middle¡Freferring to product promotion, taking part in trade shows, and for information exchange and develop product technical ability. By centering on the target market & position and marketing mix (4P, product, price, place and promotion) respectively, the out come of the research could be the guideline of international marketing strategy to ¡uS¡vcompany for entering Australian market.

Identity is a concept discussed in many different areas and there are a lot of perspectives and theories around what it consist of and how it comes to be. But it is also a word seen and used in our daily lives in the form of self-image and self-esteem. Professor Beverley Skeggs notes that we can talk about identities in plural rather than in singular due to the context. From that we are children we intuitively explore who we are by playing and role playing and our identities and self-image is influenced by several factors. How we then appear to the world has an important role. The Swedish professor Margareta Melin tested the importance of physical appearance on her students which the results showed that different appearance got different responses. By changing our body appearance we can also change our self-perception. The things you wear have an effect on how you will act and appear. It may be that your choice of appearance is an expression for someone you wish to be or an alter ego. A concept that many artists investigated, e.g. Olivier De Sagazan. The appearance of ones body becomes like a masquerade of the human social life. Where we in the one hand confirm the roles and expectations we have in society, and in the other trying to find our own core in who we believe and feel we are. Jewelry have had and still has a big role in relations to the human identity and communication between people and societies. It also has the potential of being an interactive medium for the wearer. In my project I am exploring how physical attributes, jewelry, changes the self-image and how we as individuals, together with our surroundings, construct identities by the way we appear to the world. I’ve explored how objects we dress ourselves with can function as instruments for transformation to become aware of our body-appearance. / <p>En del av bilderna i uppsatsen är borttagna p.g.a. upphovsrättslagen. Övriga bilder är fotograferad av mig.</p>

We live in a world constructed by predeterminations, divided by gender. It’s a masquerade that we’re all taking part in, men by their gaze and women by embodying it. I’ve investigated spaces where feminine attributes are interconnected to a female body, and aspects that shape the misleading mask. In my research I discovered that there are three areas where a woman and female attributes are merged: In media where the stereotype image of a woman is confirmed in glossy magazines and in reality shows. In the bathroom, a room that represents the starting point of the masquerade. And last in typical feminine rooms, beauty salons, where make-up and nail polish is applied to female bodies. By researching spaces I discovered that bodies are shaped by the exclusion of the other sex and by gender specific norms. Out from my own bodily perception I have investigated the feminine surface in the borderland between corpus and jewellery. In my process I shifted the perspective by creating wearable pieces that illustrate the undressing of femininity and by dressing traditionally masculine corpus in feminine materials. All together the objects make up a burlesque staging of a feminine scenography. It’s first when an object loses its initial function that we can create new reference points. It’s when lipstick is casted in the shape of soap and when a high heel is separated from the shoe that they become disconnected from the female body. / <p>The full thesis contains copyrighted material which has been removed in the published version.</p>

Šiame darbe bus nagrinėjama meno rinkodara konkrečiu atveju, t.y. išanalizavus teorines meno rinkodaros prieigas bus tyrinėjamas juvelyrės Jurgos Lago ir jos kūrybos darbų – YURGA juvelyrika – rinkodara. Kokia ji yra dabar, kokios jos problemos bei kaip galima tas problemas išspręsti: ką galima pagerinti ir pasiūlyti. Darbas susideda iš trijų dalių – viena teorinė dalis ir dvi praktinės – analitinės. Pirmoje dalyje yra analizuojama meno rinkodaros teorija, jos apibrėžimas, poreikis, orientacijos. Taip pat nagrinėjamas meninės vertės ir meninio potencialo teorija, kuri leidžia įvertinti kokioje stadijoje menininkas veikia ir kokios iškyla galimybės pasinaudoti rinkodaros pagalba. Išnagrinėjus meno rinkodaros koncepciją bei jos taikymo galimybę, pereinama prie antrosios dalies, kurioje analizuojama ir empyriškai pritaikoma teorija. Čia pateikiami juvelyrės Jurgos Lago meno rinkodaros tyrimo ir bendrinio tyrimo apie juvelyriką rezultatai, kurių analizė leidžia įsivardinti konkrečias Jurgos Lago meno rinkodaros problemas. Paskutinį baigiamojo darbo segmentą sudaro projektinė dalis, kurioje pateikiami pasiūlymai kaip pagerinti esamą Jurgos Lago juvelyrikos rinkodaros situaciją. / The object of this case study is an analysis of art marketing regarding jeweler Jurga Lago and her creations – Yurga jewelry. Study discusses current state of matter, problematic and precedents as well as proposed solutions. This paper consists of three parts: one theoretical and two practical analysis. First part talks about theoretical art marketing background: theory, needs and orientations. It also discusses value and theory of art potential, which allow to draw conclusions on artists current state as well as possibilities created by marketing. After we are done analysing the concept of art marketing and its real-life implementation capacities we get to second part of study, where theory is empirically employed. Research engages jewelers Jurga Lagos marketing concept analyzed through prism of generic jewelry market study. Last segment of this paper consists of proposed solutions and ideas on future marketing of YURGA jewelry. The goal of this paper is a clarification of art marketing definitions, theoretical reasons for its evaluation, segmentation and implementation. This helps to establish values of art, definition of an artwork, determine artists potential and influence of marketing as well as its elements. This academic work is a part of master thesis. This theoretical part analyses art marketing theory, definitions, needs and orientations. It evaluates value of art and artistic potential, which allow to draw conclusions on artists current state as well as... [to full text]

This creative project will culminate in a show of twenty-five pieces of metalwork, both wearable and sculptural, using as source material the rich tradition the floral imagery found in Islamic arts. Specifically the pieces will be based on the art of the Persian Gulf area. sources will be floral images as expressed in architectural elements, fabric, tiles, and other related arts or crafts. / Department of Art

O Rio Grande do Sul possui um enorme potencial na exploração de material gemológico. Municípios como Ametista do Sul e Salto do Jacuí extraem mais da metade do volume de ágata e ametista comercializadas mundialmente. Nesse mesmo contexto o município de Soledade se consolida como Polo Comercial desse tipo de material, existindo empresas (no estudo realizado foram encontradas cerca de 180) relacionadas com exportação e beneficiamento de material gemológico. No entanto grande parte dessas empresas exporta esse material com pouco beneficiamento, não valorizando as peças, que são beneficiadas no exterior, muitas vezes voltando ao Brasil para serem comercializadas com um alto valor agregado devido ao Design e a tecnologia empregada. Com investimentos em pesquisa, tecnologia e Design, assim como capacitação de mão de obra, é possível realizar no Brasil beneficiamentos de qualidade, gerando produtos diferenciados que podem ser exportados ou comercializados internamente a um preço competitivo e adequado. Nesse sentido o objetivo desse trabalho é mostrar a aplicação da tecnologia de digitalização tridimensional para o design e lapidação de gemas, obtendo o máximo de aproveitamento e valorizando o material nas nos municípios do Rio grande do sul que extraem e comercializam as gemas. No Centro Tecnológico de Pedras, Gemas e Joias do Rio Grande do Sul foram realizados testes com digitalizador HandyScan, obtendo modelos virtuais de gemas marteladas de ametista e citrino com bastante precisão. Os resultados obtidos mostram o grande potencial dessa ferramenta em fornecer modelos virtuais de gemas, possibilitando o cálculo e o projeto de sua lapidação antes do seu corte, diminuindo perdas e erros no processo de lapidação. / Rio Grande do Sul has a huge potential regarding gemological material exploration. Municipalities as Ametista do Sul and Salto Jacuí extract more than half of the volume of agate and amethyst sold worldwide. In this context the town of Soledade is consolidated as a Commercial Polo of the material and there are companies (in the research done were found about 180) related with exporting and processing gemological material. However most of these companies export this material with little improvement, not valuing the parts, which are benefit in foreign countries, often returning to Brazil to be marketed with a high added value due to the applied design and technology. Investments in research, technology and design, as well as training of manpower can be achieved in Brazil benefit from quality, create differentiated products that can be exported or commercialized internally at an appropriate price and competitive. In this sense the objective of this research is to show the application of threedimensional scanning technology to gems design and polishing, getting the maximum utilization and valuing to the material in its extraction region. In the Technology Center of Rocks, Gems and Jewelry of Rio Grande do Sul (CTPedras), tests were performed with Handyscan scanner, obtaining virtual models of hammered amethyst and citrines gems with plenty of accuracy. The results show the great potential of this tool to provide virtual models of gems, enabling the calculation and project of gemcut before its cut, reducing losses and errors in gemcut process.

O presente trabalho articula os campos do design e da tecnologia, a partir do desenvolvimento de joias, especificamente adornos que buscam a utilização de materiais encontrados em abundância no Estado do Rio Grande do Sul de origem animal (couro, ossos e chifres bovinos). Tendo como referencial elementos da cultura sul-rio-grandense encontrados na indumentária gaúcha, a intenção é analisar estes elementos formais, identificando sua origem e influências. Por meio do desenvolvimento de projeto de produto e aplicação de princípios do design de superfície, visa-se transpor, com o auxílio de tecnologias como o Scanner 3D a laser, a usinagem CNC e equipamentos de corte e gravação a laser, os elementos formais para os materiais que constituem a joia. Por meio da pesquisa bibliográfica e da pesquisa de campo, feita com o intuito de levantamento de imagens dos utensílios campeiros, é possível desenvolver, com desenhos e digitalização das peças, um banco de imagens que relaciona os elementos formais constituintes nessa cultura. Estas formas identificadas e descritas possibilitaram o desenvolvimento de módulos e padrões que podem ser aplicados nas superfícies dos materiais. Os resultados obtidos identificam que equipamentos de digitalização a laser, fresadoras CNC e o uso do laser para corte dos materiais selecionados são ferramentas importantes para gerar inovação, criando produtos em que design, tecnologia de ponta e cultura são evidenciados. / This work combines design and technology fields with the development of jewelry, specifically ornaments which pursuit using raw materials (leather, bone and horn) found in abundance in the Rio Grande do Sul state. Using elements related with clothing and ornaments from the gaucho culture as referential, the aim is analyze these elements, identifying its origins and influences. Through the development of product design and application of surface design principles, the main objective of this work is implementing the formal elements in materials used in jewelry, using technologies, such as 3D laser scanner, CNC milling and laser cutting and engraving equipments. Literature review and field research was conducted in order to lift the gaucho utensils images. This allowed the development of an image database which correlates the formal elements of this culture, through drawings and scanning of the pieces. These identified and described forms enabled developing modules and patterns to be applied on materials surface. The results show that 3D laser scanning equipment, CNC milling and the use of laser cutting on selected materials, are important tools to innovation, creating products where design, technology and culture are highlighted.

O Rio Grande do Sul possui um enorme potencial na exploração de material gemológico. Municípios como Ametista do Sul e Salto do Jacuí extraem mais da metade do volume de ágata e ametista comercializadas mundialmente. Nesse mesmo contexto o município de Soledade se consolida como Polo Comercial desse tipo de material, existindo empresas (no estudo realizado foram encontradas cerca de 180) relacionadas com exportação e beneficiamento de material gemológico. No entanto grande parte dessas empresas exporta esse material com pouco beneficiamento, não valorizando as peças, que são beneficiadas no exterior, muitas vezes voltando ao Brasil para serem comercializadas com um alto valor agregado devido ao Design e a tecnologia empregada. Com investimentos em pesquisa, tecnologia e Design, assim como capacitação de mão de obra, é possível realizar no Brasil beneficiamentos de qualidade, gerando produtos diferenciados que podem ser exportados ou comercializados internamente a um preço competitivo e adequado. Nesse sentido o objetivo desse trabalho é mostrar a aplicação da tecnologia de digitalização tridimensional para o design e lapidação de gemas, obtendo o máximo de aproveitamento e valorizando o material nas nos municípios do Rio grande do sul que extraem e comercializam as gemas. No Centro Tecnológico de Pedras, Gemas e Joias do Rio Grande do Sul foram realizados testes com digitalizador HandyScan, obtendo modelos virtuais de gemas marteladas de ametista e citrino com bastante precisão. Os resultados obtidos mostram o grande potencial dessa ferramenta em fornecer modelos virtuais de gemas, possibilitando o cálculo e o projeto de sua lapidação antes do seu corte, diminuindo perdas e erros no processo de lapidação. / Rio Grande do Sul has a huge potential regarding gemological material exploration. Municipalities as Ametista do Sul and Salto Jacuí extract more than half of the volume of agate and amethyst sold worldwide. In this context the town of Soledade is consolidated as a Commercial Polo of the material and there are companies (in the research done were found about 180) related with exporting and processing gemological material. However most of these companies export this material with little improvement, not valuing the parts, which are benefit in foreign countries, often returning to Brazil to be marketed with a high added value due to the applied design and technology. Investments in research, technology and design, as well as training of manpower can be achieved in Brazil benefit from quality, create differentiated products that can be exported or commercialized internally at an appropriate price and competitive. In this sense the objective of this research is to show the application of threedimensional scanning technology to gems design and polishing, getting the maximum utilization and valuing to the material in its extraction region. In the Technology Center of Rocks, Gems and Jewelry of Rio Grande do Sul (CTPedras), tests were performed with Handyscan scanner, obtaining virtual models of hammered amethyst and citrines gems with plenty of accuracy. The results show the great potential of this tool to provide virtual models of gems, enabling the calculation and project of gemcut before its cut, reducing losses and errors in gemcut process.

Este trabalho tem por objetivo principal a caracterização do processo de gravação a laser na ágata, padronizando a utilização do equipamento para auxiliar no desenvolvimento de produtos na área da joalheria, adornos e ornamentos. A ágata, uma variedade da calcedônia, é muito valorizada pelos mercados externos. A carência de beneficiamento e inovação tecnológica geralmente dada a este material na atualidade é um dos pontos fortes deste estudo. Nas últimas décadas, a procura por inovações tecnológicas que possam auxiliar o processo produtivo industrial se tornou importante ferramenta para manter empresas competitivas e atuantes frente a seus mercados. A padronização da técnica de gravação a laser pode agregar valor à criação de novos produtos em ágata, criando um diferencial para as peças de joalheria, sendo facilmente aplicada em escala industrial. As análises dos melhores parâmetros de gravação foram feitas com o auxílio de imagens de microscopia eletrônica de varredura (MEV), pois a grande magnificação das imagens obtidas por esta técnica auxilia em uma precisão micrométrica da extensão e da área de interação entre o material e o laser; microscópio estereoscópico; e de percepção visual e tátil. Os resultados obtidos com a utilização dos equipamentos localizados no LdSM / UFRGS e CTPedras / Soledade com suas respectivas lentes, potências e velocidades foram de grande valia para o desenvolvimento de análises quantitativas e qualitativas da interação do feixe laser com a ágata. O estudo da interação entre laser e materiais é ainda um vasto campo a ser explorado. Esta dissertação de mestrado disponibiliza resultados inovadores em relação à gravação por laser do tipo CO2 em materiais gemológicos, disponibilizando a padronização dos parâmetros ideais para o equipamento e para o desenvolvimento de criações joalheiras. / The main goal of this study was to characterize laser engraving process in agate, standardizing the use of equipment in order to assist product development in the field of jewelry, ornaments and artifacts. Agate, a variety of chalcedony, is highly valued by foreign markets. One of the focuses of this study is the lack of improvement and innovation given to this material nowadays. In recent decades, the search for technological innovations that can help the process of industrial production has become an important tool to keep companies competitive and active front of their markets. The standardization of laser engraving technique can add value to the creation of new products in agate, creating a differential for the jewelry pieces and being easily applied on an industrial scale. The analysis of these highly qualified engraving parameters was aided by scanning electron microscopy images, once high magnification of images presents a better definition of the interaction zone between the material and the laser bean in a micrometer precision; stereoscopic microscope; and visual and tactile perception. The results obtained from the use of equipment located in LdSM / UFRGS and CTPedras / Soledade with their respective lenses, power and speed are of great value for the development of quantitative and qualitative analysis of the interaction of the laser beam with agate. The study of the interaction between laser and materials is still a vast field to be explored. This masters dissertation provides innovative results compared to laser engraving type CO2 in gemological materials, providing standardization of the ideal parameters for the equipment and for developing jewelry creations.

Tendo em vista ganhos expressivos na inovação e na competitividade, o setor joalheiro nacional busca constantemente incorporar novos recursos a fim de eliminar erros e agilizar a fabricação de modelos. Dentre as diversas tecnologias passíveis de serem empregadas na produção de joias, a usinagem CNC, é amplamente utilizada por empresas de todos os portes. A usinagem, associada à microfusão, aprimora o processo de produção de joias em larga escala, pois reduz o índice de retrabalho, de perda de material e garante maior qualidade e produtividade mantendo a expressividade formal da peça original. O presente trabalho propõe um estudo acerca das tecnologias de modelagem do setor joalheiro, dando foco aos processos de fresamento. Com o auxílio da digitalização tridimensional, foi feita uma análise comparativa das etapas envolvidas no processo de fabricação de joias. Foi possível verificar, pelos resultados obtidos, que a influência da velocidade de avanço no acabamento das peças: velocidades mais baixas resultaram em superfícies com menor rugosidade aparente e permitiram a obtenção de seções mais estreitas. Além disso, os ensaios possibilitaram a definição das velocidades adequadas para a relação produtividade versus acabamento. Foram ainda determinadas relações entre as propriedades mecânicas do material e os parâmetros testados, comprovando-se que, dentre as ceras estudadas, aquela de maior dureza (63 na escala Shore D) resulta em melhores condições de acabamento. Este trabalho indica a viabilidade de otimização do processo de fabricação de joias, pois avalia as condições de usinagem em relação ao tempo, bem como a possibilidade de redução das operações de acabamento realizadas após obtenção dos modelos por usinagem. Análises realizadas por digitalização tridimensional indicam que o principal ponto de perda dimensional é a etapa de confecção dos moldes de borracha de silicone e injeção de cera, seguido pela usinagem dos modelos. Entretanto, se esse significativo desvio resultante da produção dos moldes e da injeção for corrigido, a qualidade superficial dos modelos obtidos por usinagem CNC passa a ser fundamental. Esses processos devem, portanto, ser reavaliados, a fim de reduzir os erros gerados nas etapas intermediárias da produção de joias em larga escala. / Given significant gains in innovation and competitiveness, the national jewelry sector constantly seeks to incorporate new features, in order to eliminate errors and streamline the manufacturing of models. Among the various technologies that can be used to produce jewelry, CNC machining, is widely used by businesses of all sizes. Machining process associated with casting, improves the large-scale production of jewelry, because it reduces the rework rate, material loss and ensures higher quality and productivity while maintaining the formal expressiveness of the original part. This research proposes a study about modeling technologies of the jewelry industry, giving focus to milling processes. Aided by three-dimensional scanning, it was performed a comparative analysis of the involved steps in the manufacturing process of jewelry. Based on obtained results, it was possible to verify the influence of feed speed in the finishing of parts: lower feed speeds resulted in surfaces with roughness less apparent and allowed to obtain narrower sections. Moreover, the tests enabled the definition of appropriated feed speeds to the ratio productivity versus finishing. Relationship between mechanical properties and tested parameters was determined, proving that among the studied waxes, the hardest one (63 in Shore D scale) results in better finish. This study indicates the optimization feasibility of jewelry manufacturing process, once it evaluates the machining conditions in relation to time, as well as the possibility of reducing the finishing operations carried out after obtaining models by machining. Analyses performed by three-dimensional scanning indicate that the greater dimensional loss is in the steps of silicon rubber mold production and wax injection, followed by the machining process of models. However, if this significant deviation from production of molds and injection is corrected, the surface quality of models obtained by CNC machining becomes crucial. Therefore, these processes must be reevaluated in order to reduce errors generated in intermediate stages on large-scale production of jewelry.