Den här uppsatsen handlar om smycket som kommunikatör. Dels vad ett smycke berättar om sin bärare men även på vilket sätt fem yrkesverksamma smyckekonstnärer/konsthantverkare förhåller sig till sina smycken som kommunikatörer. Genom att jämföra svar från intervjuerna med litteratur i ämnet belyses likheter och skillnader mellan hur författarna beskriver smycket som kommunikatör och hur smyckekonstnärerna/konsthantverkarna gör det. Empiri till uppsatsen har samlats in genom kvalitativa intervjuer med fem konsthantverkare/smyckekonstnärer. Svaren har sedan tolkats och analyserat. Undersökningen visar en rad olika aspekter på smycket som kommunikatör.

Den här rapporten visar mitt sätt att arbeta när jag undersöker materialet lim. De olika provresultaten och tankarna bakom dem redovisas, och de slutliga broscherna visas. Limmets värde genomgår en förändring när det från limpistolen via förvandlingen på arbetsbänken når bäraren/betraktaren.

Heteronormativity is one of the most powerful norms in our society today, a norm that many take for granted as natural. Heteronormativity is seldom discussed, it often becomes a non-question. However, the effects can be substantial for those who are outside of the norm. In my work I am discussing these issues and how it affects every day life for queer people. The work consists of four art jewellery pieces, with the four titles discussing the subject: desire, activism, owning and adjusting. Jewellery is an old language that speaks about status, individuality and hierarchy. The wearing tells us so much about the person. A pin shows the wearers political views and diamonds shows status. We need to expand the field of jewellery in order to question what jewellery really is, so that we can use jewellery to widen the acceptance of the individual. I want to investigate and queer the relationship between jewellery, wearing and the body. I have worked with big and small object.

This is an experimental study of a few glass objects from the Birka Excavations 1987-1989. A number of beads and waste from bead production have been studied. A group of these objects have also been examined with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) equipped with energy-dispersive detectors (EDS) to comparatively analyze the materials composition. Experiments to recreate the technique in which they were made have been attempted with various results. The techniques found in the beads include the use of murrini, stringer, dotting, and blown-drawn. However the waste material available to this study only suggests that in Birka, beads where made with the winding technique and ornamented with stringer and possibly dotting. The glass used was heated in clay crucibles and some rods where premade.

Identity is a concept discussed in many different areas and there are a lot of perspectives and theories around what it consist of and how it comes to be. But it is also a word seen and used in our daily lives in the form of self-image and self-esteem. Professor Beverley Skeggs notes that we can talk about identities in plural rather than in singular due to the context. From that we are children we intuitively explore who we are by playing and role playing and our identities and self-image is influenced by several factors. How we then appear to the world has an important role. The Swedish professor Margareta Melin tested the importance of physical appearance on her students which the results showed that different appearance got different responses. By changing our body appearance we can also change our self-perception. The things you wear have an effect on how you will act and appear. It may be that your choice of appearance is an expression for someone you wish to be or an alter ego. A concept that many artists investigated, e.g. Olivier De Sagazan. The appearance of ones body becomes like a masquerade of the human social life. Where we in the one hand confirm the roles and expectations we have in society, and in the other trying to find our own core in who we believe and feel we are. Jewelry have had and still has a big role in relations to the human identity and communication between people and societies. It also has the potential of being an interactive medium for the wearer. In my project I am exploring how physical attributes, jewelry, changes the self-image and how we as individuals, together with our surroundings, construct identities by the way we appear to the world. I’ve explored how objects we dress ourselves with can function as instruments for transformation to become aware of our body-appearance. / <p>En del av bilderna i uppsatsen är borttagna p.g.a. upphovsrättslagen. Övriga bilder är fotograferad av mig.</p>

The intent of this examination is to study anatomical jewelry design, withreproductions of the clitoris and uterus, its feminist connection and symbolism.Three Swedish female designers represent the foundation for this study, wheretheir specific jewelry is analyzed. Choice of designers are Clit co,Feministsmeden and Statement by Lann, a presentation of them can be found inthe second part on page 15. The main question in this study is; How come thewoman's body and genitals have become jewelry and how are these symbolslinked to feminism? Are these anatomical images inclusive or exclusive from agender perspective? The method in this survey focuses on semiotics and imageanalysis with inspiration from discourse analysis and hermeneutics, with atheory rooted in gender, feminism and exposition of the female body. Byfocusing on signification and intention, the study reaches a hypotheticalconclusion about the connection between anatomical jewelry and feminism. / Syftet med denna undersökning är att studera anatomisk smyckesdesign, med återgivningenav klitoris och livmodern, dess feministiska anknytning och symbolik. Tre svenska kvinnligadesigners står som material för studien, där deras specifika smycken analyseras. I del två avarbetet presenteras de utvalda kreatörerna Clit co, Feministsmeden och Statement by Lann.Huvudfrågan i denna studie är; Hur kommer det sig att kvinnans kropp och könsorgan harblivit smycken och hur är dessa symboler kopplade till feminism? Är dessa anatomiskaskildringar inkluderande eller exkluderande ur ett genusperspektiv? Metoden i studienfokuserar på semiotisk bildanalys med inspiration ur diskursanalys och hermeneutik, medteori förankrad i genus, feminism och kroppspolitik. Genom att fokusera på budskap ochintention når studien en hypotetisk slutsats kring sambandet mellan anatomiska smycken ochfeminism.

I feel something on the INSIDE of my body, a feeling of nagging worry. It is an emotion equally important as every other emotions we humans have. But the feeling of worry is very complex as it may come in different shapes and sizes, and how much it affects us differs from person to person. For some people thoughts of worry escalates and becomes overwhelming which causes an emotion of anxiety which in turn could lead to a panik attack. In my exam project and my artistic presentation I focus on that emotion of anxiety when you panic and you loose control. The reason for this emotion could be many but I am interested in how expectations and demands both from ourselves, others and society leads to us trying to keep it all together, stay in control and/or wanting to show an OUTSIDE that everything is fine.  Through social media, internet and commercials we are all exposed to information which tells us how to achieve ”the perfect life” and images of people having an eventful life. All of this creates expectations. In society today worry and anxiety are emotions that are connected to something negative and is often seen as a weakness. In our attempt to hide the emotion of worry and anxiety we communicate to the people on the outside that everything is fine, by for example using jewelry, make-up and clothes to show a beautiful facade almost like putting on a shield before we go outside to meet the world. Why do we do that? And for whom? I chose the necklace as the traditional piece of jewelry to symbolize beauty, stability and to communicate to people that you have everything under control and that everything is fine. The necklace  becomes part of the facade that will stand for beauty, tradition and a measure of prosperity. This is what you show on the outside of the body but on the inside that is where you hide away your worries and anxiety which is built up due to expectations. Expectations which in time will be too many and too much for you to handle, the same as with anxiety. One part of my artistic presentation is to try and visualise how these expectations are put upon you while you are trying to control them and at the same time show off a stable and beautiful outside. But no matter how hard you try to communicate that everything is fine and trying to keep everything together, in the end, what you feel on the inside of the body will seep out to the outside. I am making a attempt to show how this eventually makes you loose control. The beautiful necklace is impossible to sustain which also makes me question my own traditional view of what a necklace is. Another part of my artistic presentation is about value and to make objects that could be used as conversation pieces to start a dialog about worry and anxiety. The materials I am using symbolises the feeling when anxiety takes control of your body and staines the individual. The aim of this exam project is to raise thoughts about a complex emotion, norms in society, and to investigate what a necklace is or could be. Jewelry is a way of communicating with other people and one way to show who you are or whom you want to be. As a contemporary art jeweller I am exploring my topic in a conceptual way.

The thesis aim is to discuss the Gotlandic jewelry constellations and the difference in the jewelry assemblies between five Viking Age burial grounds on the island from an intersectional perspective. Differences or alikeness between the burial grounds are meant to highlight or decline a possible group dynamic on the island where different subgroups could be detected in an overall Gotlandic group. The subgroups could be a result of trad or local expression that show up in the jewelry constellations and by that means highlight an expression beyond the Gotlandic grouping. Following questions is discussed in relation to the different jewelry constellations in the graves, is there any differences between the jewelry constellations on the analyzed burial grounds that could indicate more than one group in the Gotlandic population during the Viking Age? How can different genders be visible in the jewelry constellations of feminine and masculine graves on the five burial grounds? If more than one group can be detected, is it possible to interpret a difference in possibility to express gender in the jewelry constellations between the burial grounds? The Gotlandic feminine jewelry has been interpreted as specific for Gotland during the Viking Age and has been discussed to show an overall group on the island. In relation to this, the five analyzed burial grounds show about a third of the graves having no jewelry in the graves and a varying jewelry constellation in the feminine graves. The thesis discussion shows a possible difference even between the jewelry in masculine graves on the burial grounds that has been analyzed which earlier studies have not highlighted. The result shows a variation both between the five burial grounds but also between the individuals. What earlier has been understood as the traditional Gotlandic feminine jewelry constellation has in the analyzes been shown to relate quite little to the actual material. Few feminine individuals have been buried with the traditional jewelry constellation, more often are they buried with a few Gotlandic jewelry items and with varying placements in the graves. In summary, the five burial grounds show a variation in local tradition and manifestations related to the Gotlandic grouping.

This paper presents how I came to create this collection of jewellery that is intimately tied to memories and fragments. How I have conducted my research about collections, museums, jewellery, and artists. Incorporating those findings into the workshop and the way the pieces came to be. Made in silver, zinc and iron, and with use of the techniques casting and etching.  And conclusively how a collection took form with this idea to give a sense of treasures or a language from an unknown world or place. Somewhere where time has passed and the individual pieces convey the notion that they are fragments of a greater whole, part of a story or memory that we can sense but not quite reckon, not to be fully understood.

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