Textilindustrin är en av världens mest förorenade industrier idag. Fast fashion företag uppmuntrar konsumenter till ökade köp genom sina låga priser. Förr handlade människor nya kläder vid behov, till skillnad från idag då många konsumerar efter begär. Att textilindustrin har stor påverkan på miljön är många väl medvetna om, men för att de ska kunna ske en förändring måste både konsumenter och företag vidta de åtgärder som krävs. Syftet med denna studie har varit att undersöka slutfasen i den textila värdekedjan. I denna avhandling kommer fenomenet upcycling att studeras och ifrågasättas som en lösning till textilavfall. Upcycling innebär att förlänga livet på ett förbrukat plagg, vilket är en vidareutveckling på en cirkulär ekonomi. Under denna studie har all kontakt med branschfolk varit inom Sverige och arbetet har huvudsakligen tagit plats i Göteborg och Borås. Frågeställningarna har utforskat för- och nackdelarna med upcycling, dessutom har en utvald målgrupp granskats via enkäter för att se deras inställning till ämnet. Resterande information har hämtats från intervjuer samt tidigare forskning. Studien upptäckte vissa svårigheter med att applicera upcycling på sin affärsmodell. Den största utmaningen som belystes var tidsåtgången, problemet kan leda till höga arbetskostnader och ökat konsumentpris. De fördelarna som upcycling bidrar med är att råmaterial och ohälsosamma arbetsförhållanden går att uteslutna. Dessutom kan konsumenten köpa plagg utan att påverka miljön negativt, detta skapar en cirkulär ekonomi. Denna studie görs ur ett hållbarhetsperspektiv och kommer att granska ett nytt möjligt tillvägagångssätt för avfallshantering, vilket gör att den kommer att avgränsa från recycling samt kläduthyrning. Studien kommer inte göra en ekonomisk fördjupning utan endast ta upp grundläggande ekonomiska aspekter. / The textile industry has become one of the most polluting industries in the world. Low prices and fast fashion increasing globally has developed a habit of consuming for leisure and not for needs. The awareness of the textile industry's environmental impact is well spoken about, but now consumers and companies need to take action to make a change. The purpose of this study has been to research the end stages of the textile loop, can textile waste turn into new fashionable clothes? In this thesis the phenomena upcycling will be explained, the advantages it brings to the positive impact on the climate justice. Upcycling means adding value to a garment in its last phase to avoid turning into waste, the business model is used to close the loop. During the phase of this thesis all contact with professionals has been within Swedish borders and the major part of this work has been based in Gothenburg and Borås. The main focus has been to explore the benefits and the difficulties with upcycling. Society’s knowledge and attitude is towards upcycling has been explored with the help of interviews and surveys as well as previous studies. The study discovers the difficulties with applying upcycling to its business model, the main problem is consumption of time, which can cause high labor costs and increase the stock price. The benefits that follows from upcycling is that raw material and bad working conditions can be excluded, it has the ability to close the loop and create a circular economy. This study is made from a perspective of sustainability, but does delimitate from the profoundness of economics. In addition, the study will examine a new way for the end phase of a textile garment and will delimitate the methods of recycling and rental of clothes.

Sustainable development is a growing concern for inhabitants of the planet earth. Consumption of fossil sources keeps up the depletion of nature’s capital and causes environmental impacts. One solution to have a sustainable society is to reduce the dependency on fossil fuels and substitute them by renewable energy sources. Among different types of renewable energy, biofuels have great potential for development and improvement. Though, the production of biofuels is criticized by many experts from the energy efficiency, environmental and economical points of view. Biogas as one type of first generation biofuels is achieved from the wastes and by-products of other industries, and can be used as a transportation fuel in the form of biomethane. The use of by-products may give added value as inputs to the biogas production process, a process which may be called "upcycling." The aim of upcycling is to convert wastes into new materials with higher quality or higher environmental value in order to reduce the consumption of raw materials which results in decreasing of energy usage and environmental impacts The aim of this thesis is to study the possibility of a biogas plant to act as an upcycler of wastes and by-products through anaerobic digestion process by the use of exergy analysis and economic evaluation. An imaginary biogas plant which uses a major by-product of brewing industry, i.e. Brewer’s Spent Grain (BSG), is considered to quantify the added value by biogas production process. The results of the exergy analysis show that the exergy of the input BSG (78,320 MJ) is upgraded into two main products as biomethane (47,430 MJ) and biofertilizer (37,026 MJ) with a total exergy amount of 84,456 MJ. On the other hand, the economic analysis of the studied biogas production process indicates that the biogas plant has the added value for the input material. In the economic analysis, the annual costs and benefits of the biogas production is calculated. The results show that the production of biomethane and biofertilizer from the by-product of brewing industry is profitable. However, the price of input BSG and also the variation price of the biofertilizer in different seasons, have great impact on the economy of a biogas plant. The outcomes from exergy and economic analysis are indicated that the biogas production process is an "upcycling" process which has the added value for the inputs, from both economic and quality points of view. The exergy and economic evaluation may be used as indicators of the sustainable development, but only increasing the exergy and the economic value of a production process alone should not be considered as the sustainability of a system.

[EN] The object of study of this Thesis is Environmental Public Art and, specifically, Recycled Art. The Thesis has a tripartite structure: in the first part, "Genesis and development of sustainability", this concept, its institutionalization and the future paradigm of that which is sustainable are fundamentally analyzed. In the second part, "In the area of sustainability: Environmental Public Art", in addition to exploring its characteristics, a classification of its various tendencies from the end of the sixties to the present day is offered. In the third part, "Recycled Art. Resignification and revaluation of waste", after explaining the complexity of refuse generation, the suitability of its use in artistic works as a response to the necessity to link art with environmental consciousness. In this part, both the artistic resignification of disposed materials and, principally, the analysis of the artistic proposals of Recycled Art are axial, with the latter being marked by the monumental character of said proposals, on which a categorization based on the materials used is proposed. In turning to remains, artists denounce, without it being their principal intention, the effects of a voracious consuming whose consequences are more than noticeable in the environmental change that the planet is experiencing. Thus, the majority of selected works constitute a fundamental channel in transmitting the denunciation of such an unsustainable situation, due to the materials with which these works are created as well as the possible conditioning of the spectator's subjectivity. Therefore, this Thesis seeks to highlight the fronts that disposed materials open in the artistic field, the impact that works of Recycled Art can have on other artists, as well as the consequent message transmittable to society in general. In short, this Thesis underlines the necessity to act in the artistic field for the benefit of a change in attitude associated with sustainability, a change that is urgent for our current society and, of course, vital for future societies. / [ES] El objeto de estudio de esta Tesis es el Arte Público Medioambiental y, en particular, el Arte de Reciclaje. La Tesis tiene una estructura tripartita: en la primera parte, "Génesis y desarrollo de la sostenibilidad", fundamentalmente se analiza este concepto, su institucionalización y el futuro paradigma de lo sostenible. En la segunda, "En el ámbito de la sostenibilidad: el Arte Público Medioambiental", además de explorar las características propias del mismo, se ofrece una clasificación de sus tendencias varias desde finales de los años sesenta hasta la actualidad. En la tercera, "El Arte de Reciclaje. Resignificación y revalorización de residuos", tras exponer la complejidad de la generación de residuos, se analiza la idoneidad de su aprovechamiento en obras artísticas como respuesta a la necesidad de vincular el arte con la concienciación medioambiental. En esta parte son axiales la resignificación artística de materiales desechados y, principalmente, el análisis de las propuestas artísticas del Arte de Reciclaje, delimitadas por la monumentalidad de las mismas, a partir de las cuales se propone una categorización en función de los materiales utilizados. Al recurrir a los residuos, los artistas vienen a denunciar, incluso sin que sea su principal intención, los efectos de una economía de consumo voraz cuyas consecuencias son más que notables en el cambio medioambiental que el planeta está experimentando. Así, la mayoría de obras seleccionadas constituyen un canal fundamental en la transmisión de la denuncia de esta situación insostenible, tanto por los materiales con que son creadas como por el posible condicionamiento de la subjetividad del espectador. Por lo tanto, esta Tesis trata de resaltar los frentes que los residuos abren en el campo artístico, el impacto que las obras del Arte de Reciclaje pueden tener para otros artistas, así como el consecuente mensaje transmisible a la sociedad en general. En suma, esta Tesis subraya la necesidad de actuar en el campo artístico en beneficio de un cambio de actitud asociada a la sostenibilidad, un cambio urgente para la sociedad actual y, por supuesto, vital, para las sociedades futuras. / [CAT] L'objecte d'estudi d'aquesta Tesi és l'Art Públic Mediambiental i, en particular, l'Art de Reciclatge. La Tesi té una estructura tripartida: a la primera part, "Gènesi i desenvolupament de la sostenibilitat", fonamentalment s'analitza aquest concepte, la seua institucionalització i el futur paradigma d'allò sostenible. A la segona, "A l'àmbit de la sostenibilitat: l'Art Públic Mediambiental", a més d'explorar les característiques pròpies del mateix, s'ofereix una classificació de les seues tendències vàries des de finals dels anys seixanta fins a l'actualitat. A la tercera, "L'Art de Reciclatge. Resignificació i revaloració de residus", després d'exposar la complexitat de la generació de residus, s'analitza la idoneïtat del seu aprofitament en obres artístiques com a resposta a la necessitat de vincular l'art amb la conscienciació mediambiental. En aquesta part són axials la resignificació artística de materials rebutjats i, principalment, l'anàlisi de les propostes artístiques de l'Art de Reciclatge, delimitades per la monumentalitat de les mateixes, a partir de les quals es proposa una categorització en funció dels materials utilitzats. En recórrer als residus, els artistes vénen a denunciar, fins i tot sense que siga la seua principal intenció, els efectes d'una economia de consum voraç les conseqüències del qual són més que notables en el canvi mediambiental que el planeta està experimentant. Així, la majoria d'obres seleccionades constitueixen un canal fonamental en la transmissió de la denúncia d'aquesta situació insostenible, tant pels materials amb que són creades com pel possible condicionament de la subjectivitat de l'espectador. Per tant, aquesta Tesi tracta de ressaltar els fronts que els residus obren en el camp artístic, l'impacte que les obres de l'Art de Reciclatge poden tindre per a altres artistes, així com el conseqüent missatge transmissible a la societat en general. Així doncs, aquesta Tesi subratlla la necessitat d'actuar en el camp artístic en benefici d'un canvi d'actitud associada a la sostenibilitat, un canvi urgent per a la societat actual i, per descomptat, vital, per a les societats futures. / Martínez Escutia, J. (2015). BAJO EL SIGNO DE LA SOSTENIBILIDAD: EL RECICLAJE EN EL ARTE PÚBLICO MEDIOAMBIENTAL [Tesis doctoral no publicada]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/59382 / TESIS

Waste is a big problem in the textile industry; one area of waste is cut off selvedges from the weaving industry. This degree work in textile design questions the need and motivation to produce fully new textiles, choosing instead to use waste material in order to create sustainable design. The work aims to apply waste selvedges in a textile design context by using it in handweaving, as both warp and weft. This project also explores food waste as dyestuff, dyeing selvedge waste with it, achieving a large variety of colours. Using selvedge waste in both warp and weft, along with dyeing using food waste, brought many possibilities in both technique and aestethics, as well as expanding the sustainable perspective in textile design by challenging the use of waste from textile and food production. The result is three handwoven examples with varying expressions, created to bring inspiration for others to use waste selvedges as a material.

Synthetic polymers are widely used in basic day to day activities given the wide range of uses associated with their advantageous material properties. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is a widely used synthetic polymer with annual production exceeding 73.39 million tons. Out of all the PET material generated, only 30% PET is recycled because current mechanical and chemical recycling methods are not techno-economically viable. This leads to the accumulation of a large amounts of PET waste in the environment causing significant damage to terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems. An alternative to recycling is PET upcycling approaches strategize of converting PET waste into high-value products. This development enables a circular material economy for PET. There are several reports of PET upcycling strategies that describe hybrid-chemo biological approaches. However, efficient whole-cell microbial catalysts capable of selectively degrading PET into its original monomers of ethylene glycol (EG) and terephthalic acid (TPA), and simultaneously upcycling these monomers into high-value compounds is yet to be developed. The selection of an appropriate host strain for plastic upcycling is vital in developing industrially applicable whole-cell biocatalysts. Use of non-model organisms in industrial applications has gained attention over the recent years. The work presented here illustrates comprehensive genomic and phenomic investigations suggesting that the metabolic pathways of the newly identified, Erwinia aphidicola LJJL01, is a promising candidate for upcycling PET-degraded substrates. First, we performed a comprehensive phenomic characterization of E. aphidicola LJJL01 including SEM imaging, pH, optimal temperature, toxicity tolerance, antibiotic tolerance, and fatty acid profile. The metabolic capability of the strain was shown using a substrates utilization assay that includes 29 substrates which comprise C-6 sugars, C-5 sugars, sugar alcohols, acids, alcohols. Secondly, we developed an efficient system for plasmid-based expression and secretion of heterologous proteins. We established synthetic microbiology tools, including CRISPR/Cas9-based genomic editing, to engineer the E. aphidicola LJJL01 strain. Thirdly, we demonstrated successful heterologous expression of PET hydrolyzing enzymes such as PETase and MHETase from Ideonella sakaiensis together with their secretion signal peptides in E. aphidicola LJJL01. We assessed the strain's PET hydrolyzing activity using Bis(2-Hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET), an intermediate molecule of PET as the model substrate. The strain yields 0.88 ±0.10 mol of TPA/mol of BHET in minimal salt medium within 48 hours and outperforms the commonly used platform organisms such as Pseudomonas putida KT2440. We also successfully expressed the thermostable leaf branch compost cutinase (LCC) in E. aphidicola LJJL01. For the first time we were able to demonstrate the synergistic activity of LCC and MHETase enzymes at 30 °C. Since the developed strains didn't show considerable PET degradation at ambient conditions, we developed a novel process to hydrolyze amorphous and commercial grade PET using cell-free supernatant of secreted LCC enzyme at 72°C (the glass transition temperature of PET). Finally, we further engineered the aromatic catabolism of the strain to demonstrate the potential of upcycling PET-degraded TPA into high-value platform chemicals such as cis, cis-muconate. Taken together, we demonstrated E. aphidicola LJJL01, a promising microbial chassis to develop whole-cell biocatalysts to upcycle PET and enable circular material economy.

This paper examines the processes, materials, and influences of Karina Presttun, an artist who explores building abstract sculptures with twine made from second-hand fabrics. She discusses how her work aims to share emotions and visual experiences that do not translate well into text and how she has been inspired by fiber artists, basket makers, and music. She also reflects on the spiritual importance of craftsmanship, the risk of the academization of art, and using discarded materials to bring attention to the environmental impact of textile production. / <p>4 images removed: </p><p>Image 7.  Patford, Gemma (design), DIY Rope Bowl [vessel made from hand-painted rope], 2013, https://collectivegen.com/2013/07/diy-rope-bowl/, accessed 21 February 2023.</p><p><strong>Direct image link: https://collectivegen.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/diy-rope-bowl-a-pair-and-a-spare-201-778x519.jpg</strong></p><p>---</p><p>Image 19. Hopkins, Jan, Comtemplation, [sculpture made from agave leaves, yellow cedar bark &amp; waxed linen], private collection, 2004, http://janhopkinsart.blogspot.com/p/fade-to-light-dimensions-19-12x14x9.html, accessed 21 February 2023.</p><p><strong>Direct image link: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oL_xzFstShg/UG9iiS-MNlI/AAAAAAAACIo/H_AgdTOeeQ0/s1600/contemplation_front_www.jpg</strong></p><p></p><p>Image 20. Grey, Alex, Dissectional Art for Tool’s Lateralus CD [ink on paper &amp; acrylic on acetate], 2001, https://www.alexgrey.com/art/tool/dissectional-art-for-tools-lateralus-cd, accessed 21 February 2023.</p><p><strong>Direct image link: https://www.alexgrey.com/art-images/tool-dissectional-alex-grey-watermarked.jpg</strong></p><p>---</p><p>Image 22. Jacobs, Ferne, Figure/Head, [object made from coiled and twined waxed linen thread], 2020, https://www.craftinamerica.org/blog/building-the-essentials-ferne-jacobs-4-2-2022-6-18-2022/, accessed 21 February 2</p><p><strong>Direct image link: https://www.craftinamerica.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/IMG_5016edit.jpg</strong></p><p></p>

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Med fokus på kunskapsbyggande utanför skoltid etableras en efter-skolan-utbildning med fokus på återbruk och reparation. Genom årskursens projekt växte en bild av att frånvarande av kunskap och fritidsaktivitet bidrar till utanförskap och social segregation som tär på samhällets fogar. Till ungdomar i närheten, främst från Nickstahöjden men också Grönsdal som är socioekonomiskt utsatta anläggs ett “hus för folket” + en återbruksskola för att bidra till att bredda utbudet av utbildningsfaktorer samt stärka faktorn av samhörighet och värdeskapande för deltagarna. Utbildning och kunskaplyft i alla dess former är nyckeln till en bättre morgondag. / With a focus on knowledge building outside of school hours, an after-school education is established with a focus on reuse and repair. Through the year's project, an image grew that the absence of knowledge and leisure activity contributes to exclusion and social segregation, which eats away at the joints of society. For young people in the vicinity, mainly from Nickstahöjden but also Grönsdal who are socio-economically vulnerable, a "house for the people" + a recycling school will be built to help broaden the range of educational factors and strengthen the factor of togetherness and value creation for the participants. Education and knowledge raising in all its forms are the key to a better tomorrow.

The project Attitude explores how to build silhouettes with sports gear. By taking elements from hip-hop fashion from the 90`s I will interpret a streetwear collection that is high fashion. The sports gear I have chosen is old material from sports shops, hockey associations and second-hand. Presenting the potential of pre-used gear shows an alternative way of creating a new value for the category streetwear fashion. The supply of gear that I have gathered is limiting and directing my decisions. By building the silhouettes with draping as the design method it will form the final outcome. The combination of sports gear and fashion has previously been explored. The collections have shown the functionality of the gear by applying its original placement; In contrast, The project Attitude will show alternative perspectives on how one can use the gear and push sports fashion and its expression.

Efforts are underway within the European Union to move towards a circular economy, with the aim of reducing society’s consumption and the use of resources. A keyword for the circular economy concept is reuse. The aim of this master thesis is to examine how copyright law relates to the reuse of applied art. Thus, the questions investigated in the thesis are as follows. How can applied art be reused under existing law? What limitations would be needed to achieve sustainable and long-lasting works of applied art, and can they be justified when the various interests at stake are considered? The forms of reuse covered in the thesis are upcycling, repair and repair through upcycling.  Regarding the subject of upcycling and repair through upcycling, the following is observed. When works are modified and upcycled, the right to exploit the work is subjected to the copyright of the original work. One way to address this problem would be to allow an existing provision in the national legislation an extensive interpretation, which would allow third parties to make changes to works of applied art.  As for repairs, another solution is needed. If a repair involves making copies of detachable parts of a copyright protected work, the rightsholders’ exclusive rights prevent the repair. It is permissible, for private use, to make copies of public-available works. However, it is not permissible to permit another person to produce utility goods. To be able to move towards a circular economy and meet the needs of an environmentally conscious society, it is necessary to impose a provision that limits the rightsholders’ rights, to extend the right to repair. Finally, a special approach and assessment regarding parts of works is also discussed.