京都大学 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(教育学) / 甲第24072号 / 教博第276号 / 新制||教||211(附属図書館) / 京都大学大学院教育学研究科教育学環専攻 / (主査)准教授 竹内 里欧, 教授 田中 康裕, 講師 安藤 幸 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Philosophy (Education) / Kyoto University / DGAM

本研究探討小資女的微整型風潮，主要由兩大部分構成全文。第一部分是藉由台灣美容歷史的梳理，凸顯1990年代後由醫學主導的美容場域所塑造出的自然美神話。這神話使得選擇微整型實作的個人從自我認同到人際互動，多少都承載著自然美的價值去展演、觀看。透過訪談，本文進而揭示以微整型為日常保養的小資女，當她們在職場中從面試到工作與團體相處時，是如何發揮那隱而不見的「針」功夫，又如何以各種互動和對話技巧規避他人對自我外貌變化的猜疑。此外，本文也指出小資女身處在美容資訊隨處可見、選擇看似無窮的環境中，其個人決定如何在社會凝視下擺盪。應用Goffman的戲劇互動論，本文指出她們在職場上的儀式行為，尤其探問到在不同職場文化中的自我如何已經成為可以彈性形塑並要求改變的符號-物，甚至連同服裝及儀容也必須轉換為應當的儀式表達。 　　第二部分則是從自然美神話裡的矛盾元素去探究醫療細微化的科技視野下所呈現的當代生活。透過訪談，本文初步揭示女性在神話結構當中對於自然美的渴求，並且藉由微整型實作完成神話的矛盾要素。應用Baudrillard的消費社會觀，本文指出當女性在尋求差異以強調自我獨特性時，卻正相反地在迎合社會的共同性價值。此處除了小資女的自我敘述之外，本文也結合理論文獻及二手資料進階探究自然美形塑過程的三大面向，亦即物質技術、廣告消費和數位微整型。首先，我們基於物質、技術與醫師經驗等三個判準，將當前四大微整型技術劃出一條自然光譜。其次，我們從醫美診所的廣告文宣，梳理其中針對微整形技術的自然主張，了解業者的自然宣稱及消費者的自然認知。第三，我們還探討了電腦技術下的數位修圖以便凸顯出微整形的自然美意涵。從數位攝影的普及到網路平台的展演，我們在數位自拍與修圖等虛擬真實的媒介實作中探索自然美神話的疆界。 / This research comprised of two parts studies the emerging trend of cosmetic surgery practiced by young working females in Taiwan. In the first part, a short history of cosmetic practices is outlined to mark the formation of a myth of natural beauty since medical science and technology dominated the traditional field of cosmetic practices in the late 1990s. The myth makes the individual who has gone through cosmetic surgery carry the value of natural beauty while regarding one’s self-identity and performing in social interactions. Through in-depth interviews, the study shows that these young working females who have made cosmetic surgery an integral part of their daily beauty maintenance tend to exercise subtle strategies (art or kung-fu) of simulation, acting and interacting as if their beauty were all natural and real beyond suspicion at work-related situations. In addition, our study finds that personal decisions struggle constantly with the injunction of the social value (of natural beauty) as these young females are exposed to an excessive array of beauty information and surgery options. With resort to Goffman's theory of dramaturgical interaction, this study reveals some interaction rituals performed in different workplaces by these young working females. As a result, the individual self has itself become a sign-object malleable to change along with proper ways of clothing and grooming. The second part proceeds to explore contemporary living under the miniaturized purview of medical technology through the contradictory elements embodied in the myth of natural beauty. Once again drawing on in-depth interviews, the study reveals the female desire of natural beauty derived from the mythical structure, as well as their practices of cosmetic surgery which further realizes those contradictory elements in reproducing the myth. By applying Baudrillard’s theory of the consumer society, this study indicates that the more women intend to stress on their unique selves by marking out individual differences, the more they unintentionally cater to the common value of our society. In this regard, our study, apart from the self reports of interviewees, also combines theoretical discourses and secondary data to further explore the natural beauty process in its three main aspects, which might be termed as the cosmetic surgery of the material (technique), the representational (advertising) and the digital (social media). First, we delineate a spectrum of naturalism for the four major techniques of cosmetic surgery based on substance, technology and experience of the physician. Second, we examine the clinical claims and the consumer perceptions of nature shaped by advertising images and slogans circulated in the beauty industry. Third, we observe the trend of digital retouching with computer technology to sharpen the meaning of natural beauty in the practice of cosmetic surgery. From the relay of digital photography to the display of internet platform, we explore the mythical frontier of natural beauty by witnessing the digital retouching of selfies as a mediatory practice of virtual reality.

「流行文化」(popular culture)已是當代全球人們普遍的日常生活現象，流行文化呈現多方集結又散落四處景況。幾經浪奔浪流變遷滄海桑田，「一年一個樣，三年大變樣」已是上海流行文化充滿蓬勃生機的真實寫照。本研究以上海(Shanghai)為研究對象，流行文化變遷是研究主軸，研究目的在於：探討上海流行文化的發展、上海流行文化與城市、社會、人的關係、與上海流行文化變遷的影響因素分析。 本研究是中國與台灣論述上海流行文化初探性學術研究，從上海流行文化的歷史發展解析，包括上海歷史沿革、社會文化、流行文化、服裝、電影的演變過程；並從海派文化、上海人、小資牽動上海流行文化、上海的台北熱、上海都會的消費娛樂生活現象、上海流行文化的城市社會觀向度深入探討。研究發現，影響上海流行文化因素包括：文化全球化的衝擊、中西文化的交流、中國流行文化演進、小資的出現。 研究結論為：1、中國改革開放後，上海流行文化呈現趨新善變發展趨勢。2、在文化全球化浪潮下，上海流行文化正朝混種融合(hybridization)發展。3、上海流行文化反映崇尚洋派、風尚西方文化價值。4、上海流行文化投射出中國流行文化與台灣流行文化風貌。5、小資引領上海都會消費娛樂生活。6、上海流行文化與城市、社會、人之間緊密相關。