於17至18世紀之際的全球貿易擴張和英格蘭政治、經濟、社會等層面的變動之下，英格蘭社會頻繁的階層垂直流動，推升了英格蘭貴族「炫耀性消費」(conspicuous consumption)的消費形態，在外在行為上展現個人的品味和自我認同，以區隔並排除他人的晉升。於此，集實用品、商品、收藏品和奢侈品於一身的「中國外銷瓷」即符合了英格蘭貴族此種需求，而英屬東印度公司對於中國貿易之路的逐漸掌控，也推升了英格蘭貴族對中國外銷瓷的狂熱購買，這種消費文化遂成為逐漸上升的中間階層既批判又仿效的對象。此時期亦是當代知識份子辯論奢侈、奢侈品和其承載意義的高峰期，大量出現的文本顯示出社會對此議題的重視，和對不斷擴張的全球貿易和英格蘭社會瀰漫的奢侈風氣的回應。本文試圖以英格蘭貴族對中國外銷瓷的狂熱為中心，探討這個外來的奢侈品，讓英格蘭貴族得以運用「炫耀性消費」來彰顯自身的財富、地位和品味，並幫助其塑造出有別於中、下階層的消費文化，以與中、下階層產生區隔，甚而影響了整個英格蘭社會的餐桌禮儀、飲食習慣和消費品味。 關鍵詞：炫耀性消費、中國外銷瓷、奢侈

McQuail在討論大眾傳播與社會變遷的關係時，認為社會與文化若互相影響則形成互賴關係。從1973年以降，中華三菱的廣告主要受社會變遷的影響而少反向影響社會，摘要如下： 一、從單一媒體到全傳播媒體　 早期報禁使報紙獨大與寡占，閱聽眾訊息來源有限多只使用報紙；1993年中華進入轎車市場後始大量使用電視搭配報紙露出；2000年因媒體環境複雜，專業媒體代理商針對媒體與目標客層特性進行波段媒體操作，使廣告訊息更有效傳遞。 二、從解說產品到說故事的汽車品牌 自由化時期前，中華三菱因僅有商用車，平面廣告皆採用產品特色的理性溝通，如同Otto Kleppner的廣告螺旋理論，當商品在拓荒期時要訴求功能，在競爭期面臨眾多品牌時要強調商品的獨特性，在鞏固期中華三菱廣告則採故事性較多的感性訴求建立品牌形象。 三、炫耀性消費的文化浮現與普及 從1996年Cefiro出現後，汽車廣告中呈現豐富豪華的配備，消費者進入Baudrillard的「炫耀性消費」社會。中華三菱從早期以商車頭家體驗證言到1997年休旅車推出後，各車廣告皆針對目標客層在廣告中呈現身分的識別與彰顯。 四、廣告訴求從高涉理性到高涉感性 「FCB 廣告模式」中發現中華三菱的廣告從高涉理性商品移轉到高涉感性商品，會發生這樣的現象跟經濟與消費文化有高度正相關，而汽車有關商品理性層面，消費者已有更多能力與訊息可做判斷，至於如何打動則要靠更多的感性訴求。 1970到2010年代的社會，從一個大家彼此認識的恬靜社區逐漸到誰也不認識誰的異化社會(alienated Gesellschaft)，不同階級使用不同的物品彰顯所在的社會結構中位置，中華三菱的廣告則不斷提供並呈現社會中產階級想要模傲的價值觀。 / When McQuail discussed the relationship between mass communications and social changes, he believed that society and culture form into a relationship of interdependence if they influence each other. This research analyzed CMC Motor's advertisements and found them influenced by Taiwanese social changes much more than the degree they have influenced society. A. From a single medium to IMC media Newspapers had been the major information source for the audience in Taiwan. When CMC Motor joined the market in 1993, automobile industry began to apply plenty of TV commercials along with advertisements in the papers. Since 2000, agencies have run advertising on targeted audience making messages effectively delivered. B. A brand from product facts-explanation to story-telling In early days, CMC Motor took rational manners in print advertisements, as Otto Kleppner puts that a product should appeal with its functionality at the pioneering stage; story-enriched emotional appeals have been applied when the company reached the stage of consolidation. C. Emergence and popularization of conspicuous consumption Cefiro hit the market in 1996, advertised as a luxuriously equipped sedan--that was the time when consumers moved into “conspicuous consumption” society. All CMC Motor advertisements have appealed to status identification and recognition of targeted consumers. D. Highly involvement of advertising appeals: from rational to emotional CMC Motor's advertisements transferred into highly involvement/affective from highly involvement/rational,which is quite related to economy and consumption culture. Consumers are able and informed to make decisions nowadays, while emotional appeals are more needed for touching their hearts. From 1970 to 2010, Taiwanese society transformed from a place where people knew each other into an alienated Gesellschaft. Society members from different status use different things to recognize each own position, meanwhile CMC Motor's advertisements keep presenting values the middle-class desire to intimate and to be proud of. automobile advertisement, consumption society, advertising appeal, social change, conspicuous consumption

「奢侈平民化」帶動奢侈品牌年年高成長的業績，卻迫使品牌必須面對截然不同的消費者態度與品味。品牌欲持續保有強勢地位，必須了解奢侈在消費者心目中的意義以及消費者如何評估奢侈品牌。因此，本研究欲探討台灣精品消費者認知中構成品牌奢侈的因素，建構衡量品牌奢侈之量表，並以量表探討消費者購買經驗對奢侈認知之影響，及分析個別品牌的現況及優劣勢，研擬具體的競爭策略方向。 本研究選取五個奢侈品牌作為分析標的，進行實證研究，期望達到下列研究目的： (1)驗證品牌奢侈量表，建立評估奢侈品牌的管理工具； (2)探討不同奢侈品牌購買經驗之消費者對各品牌奢侈認知的差異性； (3)探討各奢侈品牌在消費者心目中的知覺定位，擬定未來的策略方向。 依本研究之目的，擬定研究架構及確立抽樣設計，並發放問卷收集消費者資訊。之後以二階驗證性因素分析檢驗品牌奢侈量表模式品質；再利用量表探討不同購買經驗對奢侈認知的影響；最後則以多元尺度分析進行知覺定位分析，經實證分析得到以下研究發現： (1)品牌奢侈包含知覺炫耀性、知覺獨特性、知覺品質、知覺享樂價值與知覺延伸自我等五個構面，其影響力依序排列為知覺享樂價值>知覺延伸自我>知覺獨特性>知覺炫耀性>知覺品質。 (2)台灣地區消費者於購買奢侈品牌之產品後，對品牌奢侈程度的認知無明顯地降低，對品牌的奢侈評價與無購買經驗者沒有顯著差異。 (3)各奢侈品牌的改善重點主要包括知覺品質、知覺享樂價值以及知覺獨特性等三項，其中知覺品質為市場最重要之關鍵因素。 根據實證分析之結果，衍生出許多的策略涵意，包括掌握關鍵因素、規劃競爭策略以及未來發展方向等，可以作為奢侈品牌改善或塑造奢侈形象及規劃策略方向的參考依據。 / “Luxury Democratization” brings great growth to the luxury goods market, but also forced these brands to confront consumers with different attitudes and tastes. As a result, it is critical for luxury brand managers to understand consumer’s perception of brand luxury in order to maintain the brands’ luxury image. This research focused on the confirmation of Brand Luxury Scale to understand Taiwanese cousumers’ perception of brand luxury. Based on the Scale, the influence of purchase experience to luxury perception was tested, and the competitive advantages of five luxury brands were analyzed. Competitive strategies of each brand were futher developed. Research was conducted by using five luxury brands and expected to achieve the following research purposes: (1)Confirm the Brand Luxury Scale to establish a managerial tool for brand luxuriousness evaluation; (2)Use the Brand Luxury Scale to evaluate the influence of purchase experience to luxury perception; (3)Use the Brand Luxury Scale to evaluate consumers’ perception of different brands, and seek to imply different competitive strategies for these brands base on the analysis. After the conduction of research framework, sampling design and data collection, Secondary Comfirmatory Factor Analysis was used to confirm the structure of Brand Luxury Scale. 1-Way ANOVA was used to test the influence of purchase experience to luxury perception. Finally, Multi-Dimensional Scaling Analysis was implied to analyze the perceptual position of each brand. The research findings are as below: (1)Brand Luxury is constructed by five dimensions: Perceived Conspicuousness, Perceived Uniqueness, Perceived Quality, Perceived Hedonic, and Perceived Extended-self. The order of dimensional influence is Perceived Hedonic> Perceived Extended -self> Perceived Uniqueness> Perceived Conspicuousness> Perceived Quality. (2)No difference in brand luxury perception between different purchasing experience consumers was found, showing that the perceptions of brand luxury of Taiwanese consumers’ remain unchanged after purchase. (3)Perceived Quality is the most important dimension of all, and the five luxury brands tested needs to improve in dimensions of Perceived Quality, Perceived Hedonic, and Perceived Uniqueness. According to the results, several managerial implications were derived, including key factors in marketing and competitive strategy of each brand. These strategies can be used in improving the performance of perceived luxuriousness of brand, enhancing brand luxury image, and planning the direction of luxury marketing and brand strategy.

此研究將探討台灣消費者的消費行為對於國外知名零售絣牌Abercrombie and Fitch Co. 本品牌建立位於美國以休閒服裝為主，。此研究會探討品牌知名度， 品牌形象， 購買意向對於這個品牌。 此研究採用便利抽樣調查以定量分析取出結果。本研究採取192個樣本中34.9%為男性，65.1%為女性。研究員採用階層回歸分析調查出本研究調查。調查結果指出消費者俱有高度認知對於品牌知名度和品牌形會有嚴重影響消費者的購買意向。同時，消費者俱有高度炫耀性消費和時尚觀念對於Abercrombie and Fitch Co. 品牌知名度和品牌形的認知會增加。Abercrombie and Fitch Co. 的資訊來源大多數以網路和朋友，因此也提升消費者的品牌知名度對於此品牌。 / In this study the researcher examined the influence of Taiwanese consumers behavior towards overseas retail fashion brand Abercrombie and Fitch Co. The brand was established in the United States of America that offers a range of products such casual sportswear apparel, outerwear, and accessories for men, women, and kids. This study investigated on Taiwanese consumers brand awareness, brand image and purchase intention for the brand. A quantitative analysis will be used for this research by using convenience sampling survey which were distributed online. A total of 192 samples were used for this study (34.9%) of the respondents were male and (65.1%) were female. The researcher used hierarchical multiple regression analysis to test for the results that were needed for this study. The findings indicated that purchase intention is heavily influenced by brand awareness and brand image; meanwhile, consumers with higher levels of conspicuous consumption and fashion conscious orientations have greater brand knowledge and better brand image about Abercrombie and Fitch Co. Getting fashion information from friends and internet led to greater brand awareness about Abercrombie and Fitch Co.