As anêmonas do mar utilizam rico complexo proteico para capturar suas presas e se defender de predadores. A peçonha destes animais contem neurotoxinas (35 kDa), com ação em canais iônicos específicos, e hemolisinas (1820 kDa), que atuam formando poros em membranas. No entanto, pouco se conhece sobre a atividade biológica de substâncias de baixo peso molecular isoladas da peçonha destes animais. Foi demonstrado, pelo nosso grupo, que a Bunodosina 391 (BDS 391), um composto de baixo peso molecular isolado da peçonha da anêmona do mar Bunodosoma cangicum, induz potente efeito antinociceptivo periférico, em modelos experimentais de dor aguda e persistente. Ensaios farmacológicos mostraram que a atividade analgésica do BDS 391 é mediada pela ativação de receptores serotoninérgicos 5-HT3. O BDS 391 é um composto bromado formado por um núcleo molecular semelhante a serotonina (5-HT), conectado, por meio de uma ligação peptídica, a uma histidina. A semelhança estrutural com a 5-HT e o envolvimento de receptores 5-HT3 no efeito antinociceptivo deste composto, torna de especial interesse a ampliação da caracterização dos mecanismos moleculares envolvidos na ação do BDS 391. Há evidências crescentes da co-expressão de receptores 5-HT e TRPV1 e a interação entre esses dois receptores na modulação da excitabilidade de neurônios sensitivos envolvidos na nocicepção. O receptor TRPV1 é considerado um receptor polimodal, uma vez que pode ser ativado por diversos estímulos. Baseado em estudos farmacológicos, mostrando que o BDS 391 apresenta potente efeito antinociceptivo em modelo de hipernocicepção mecânica, mediado pela ativação de receptores 5-HT3 periféricos o presente projeto de pesquisa teve como objtivo ampliar a caracterização dos mecanismos moleculares envolvidos na ação do BDS 391 investigando a interação deste composto com os receptores 5-HT3, por meio de ensaios de ligação (binding). Uma vez que nossos resultados demonstraram que o composto BDS 391 não é capaz de interagir diretamente com os receptores 5-HT3, sugerindo que o envolvimento destes receptores no efeito analgésico induzido pelo BDS 391 pode decorrer de uma acão indireta do BDS 391, avaliamos outros possíveis alvos farmacológicos para este composto. Por tanto investigamos, por meiode ensaios eletrofisiológicos e ensaios de imageamento de influxo de Ca2+ em cultura de neurônios do DRG de ratos, a possível ação do BDS 391 sobre correntes iônicas Ca2+ em canais para cálcio dependentes de voltagens (Cavs). Outro alvo avaliado foram os canais TRPV1. Foram realizados emsaios in vivo, utilizando modelo de hiperalgesia térmica induzida pela capsaicina, e ensaios in vitro (imageamento do influxo de Ca2+). Nossos resultados evidenciaram que o BDS 391 não interage com os Cavs, porem bloqueia o influxo de Ca2+ induzido pela capsaicina, além de inibira hiperalgesia térmica induzida pela capsaicina. Em conjunto, estes dados sugerem que os canais TRPV1 são alvos importantes da ação do BDS 391. / Sea anemones employ a wide range of bioactive compounds to capture their prey or fend off possible predators. Sea anemone venom contains neurotoxins (3-5 kDa), with action on ion channels, and also hemolysin (18-20 kDa), which acts by forming pores in membranes. However, little is known about the biological activity of low molecular weight substances isolated from the venom of these animals. One of these substances is Bunodosine 391 (BDS 391), a low molecular weight (391 Da) and non-peptidic compound purified from the venom of the Brazilian Bunodosoma cangicum sea anemone. We have demonstrated that BDS 391, administered by intraplantar (i.pl.) route into a rat hind paw, induces potent peripheral antinociceptive effect in models of acute and chronic pain. Pharmacological studies have shown that the antinociceptive effect of the BDS 391 is mediated by activation of 5-HT3 receptors. Studies on the structure of BDS 391 have demonstrated that this compound is made up of a bromoindole group connected to histidine. Data from the literature have shown that the peripheral release of 5-HT interferes with thermal hyperalgesia, via modulation of TRPV1 receptors. The aim of the present work is to further characterize the mechanisms involved in the antinociceptive effect of BDS 391 (a) evaluating the ability of this substance to directly activate 5-HT3 receptors, (b) characterizing the effect of BDS 391 on capsaicin-evoked thermal hyperalgesia and (c) investigating the involvement of TRPV1 ion channels in this effect. Pharmacological studies have shown that BDS 391 induces antinociception in the capsaicin-evoked thermal hyperalgesia. Ondansentron (5-HT3 receptor antagonist) inhibits the effect of BDS 391, indicating the involvement of 5-HT3 in the antinociceptive effect of this substance. However, binding studies have shown that BDS 391 does not directly interact with the 5-HT3 receptor. The possible effect of BDS 391 on TRPV1 ion channels was investigated in vitro, through Ca2+ imaging studies. Cultured DRG neurons were used for Ca2+ imaging. BDS 391 inhibited capsaicin-evoked Ca2+ influx in DRG neurons, indicating a modulatory action on the activity of TRPV1. Our results suggest that the antinociceptive effect of BDS 391 could involve the inhibition of TRPV1 channels and, indirectly, the modulation of 5-HT3 receptors.

As anêmonas do mar utilizam rico complexo proteico para capturar suas presas e se defender de predadores. A peçonha destes animais contem neurotoxinas (35 kDa), com ação em canais iônicos específicos, e hemolisinas (1820 kDa), que atuam formando poros em membranas. No entanto, pouco se conhece sobre a atividade biológica de substâncias de baixo peso molecular isoladas da peçonha destes animais. Foi demonstrado, pelo nosso grupo, que a Bunodosina 391 (BDS 391), um composto de baixo peso molecular isolado da peçonha da anêmona do mar Bunodosoma cangicum, induz potente efeito antinociceptivo periférico, em modelos experimentais de dor aguda e persistente. Ensaios farmacológicos mostraram que a atividade analgésica do BDS 391 é mediada pela ativação de receptores serotoninérgicos 5-HT3. O BDS 391 é um composto bromado formado por um núcleo molecular semelhante a serotonina (5-HT), conectado, por meio de uma ligação peptídica, a uma histidina. A semelhança estrutural com a 5-HT e o envolvimento de receptores 5-HT3 no efeito antinociceptivo deste composto, torna de especial interesse a ampliação da caracterização dos mecanismos moleculares envolvidos na ação do BDS 391. Há evidências crescentes da co-expressão de receptores 5-HT e TRPV1 e a interação entre esses dois receptores na modulação da excitabilidade de neurônios sensitivos envolvidos na nocicepção. O receptor TRPV1 é considerado um receptor polimodal, uma vez que pode ser ativado por diversos estímulos. Baseado em estudos farmacológicos, mostrando que o BDS 391 apresenta potente efeito antinociceptivo em modelo de hipernocicepção mecânica, mediado pela ativação de receptores 5-HT3 periféricos o presente projeto de pesquisa teve como objtivo ampliar a caracterização dos mecanismos moleculares envolvidos na ação do BDS 391 investigando a interação deste composto com os receptores 5-HT3, por meio de ensaios de ligação (binding). Uma vez que nossos resultados demonstraram que o composto BDS 391 não é capaz de interagir diretamente com os receptores 5-HT3, sugerindo que o envolvimento destes receptores no efeito analgésico induzido pelo BDS 391 pode decorrer de uma acão indireta do BDS 391, avaliamos outros possíveis alvos farmacológicos para este composto. Por tanto investigamos, por meiode ensaios eletrofisiológicos e ensaios de imageamento de influxo de Ca2+ em cultura de neurônios do DRG de ratos, a possível ação do BDS 391 sobre correntes iônicas Ca2+ em canais para cálcio dependentes de voltagens (Cavs). Outro alvo avaliado foram os canais TRPV1. Foram realizados emsaios in vivo, utilizando modelo de hiperalgesia térmica induzida pela capsaicina, e ensaios in vitro (imageamento do influxo de Ca2+). Nossos resultados evidenciaram que o BDS 391 não interage com os Cavs, porem bloqueia o influxo de Ca2+ induzido pela capsaicina, além de inibira hiperalgesia térmica induzida pela capsaicina. Em conjunto, estes dados sugerem que os canais TRPV1 são alvos importantes da ação do BDS 391. / Sea anemones employ a wide range of bioactive compounds to capture their prey or fend off possible predators. Sea anemone venom contains neurotoxins (3-5 kDa), with action on ion channels, and also hemolysin (18-20 kDa), which acts by forming pores in membranes. However, little is known about the biological activity of low molecular weight substances isolated from the venom of these animals. One of these substances is Bunodosine 391 (BDS 391), a low molecular weight (391 Da) and non-peptidic compound purified from the venom of the Brazilian Bunodosoma cangicum sea anemone. We have demonstrated that BDS 391, administered by intraplantar (i.pl.) route into a rat hind paw, induces potent peripheral antinociceptive effect in models of acute and chronic pain. Pharmacological studies have shown that the antinociceptive effect of the BDS 391 is mediated by activation of 5-HT3 receptors. Studies on the structure of BDS 391 have demonstrated that this compound is made up of a bromoindole group connected to histidine. Data from the literature have shown that the peripheral release of 5-HT interferes with thermal hyperalgesia, via modulation of TRPV1 receptors. The aim of the present work is to further characterize the mechanisms involved in the antinociceptive effect of BDS 391 (a) evaluating the ability of this substance to directly activate 5-HT3 receptors, (b) characterizing the effect of BDS 391 on capsaicin-evoked thermal hyperalgesia and (c) investigating the involvement of TRPV1 ion channels in this effect. Pharmacological studies have shown that BDS 391 induces antinociception in the capsaicin-evoked thermal hyperalgesia. Ondansentron (5-HT3 receptor antagonist) inhibits the effect of BDS 391, indicating the involvement of 5-HT3 in the antinociceptive effect of this substance. However, binding studies have shown that BDS 391 does not directly interact with the 5-HT3 receptor. The possible effect of BDS 391 on TRPV1 ion channels was investigated in vitro, through Ca2+ imaging studies. Cultured DRG neurons were used for Ca2+ imaging. BDS 391 inhibited capsaicin-evoked Ca2+ influx in DRG neurons, indicating a modulatory action on the activity of TRPV1. Our results suggest that the antinociceptive effect of BDS 391 could involve the inhibition of TRPV1 channels and, indirectly, the modulation of 5-HT3 receptors.

This thesis explores a history of fashion and art in post-war Britain. The historical analysis of this study focuses on how institutions and spaces of public culture – such as museums, galleries, exhibitions and art schools – were used as locations for editorial photo-spreads published in the British editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar between 1945 and 1962. Fashion magazines participate in the cultural production of art by depicting its institutions, its products and producers as fashionable. This thesis interrogates the ways in which the field of fashion, and fashion media in particular, thereby gives symbolic value to the field of art through its mediation. In its examination of the ways in which representations of art and fashion have been meaningfully constructed for a high fashion magazine readership, the thesis contributes to a further understanding of the relationship between fashion and art, and affords new insights into the cultural history of post-war Britain. The theoretical framework of this study engages with Agnès Rocamora’s model of ‘fashion media discourse’, which brings together the work of Michel Foucault and Pierre Bourdieu. This thesis draws upon Foucault’s work on ‘discourse’ and Bourdieu’s concept of ‘cultural production’ in order to conduct an ‘archaeology’ of post-war British fashion media and its participation in the cultural production of art. This thesis has developed Rocamora’s concept in its application to a specific historical study of fashion media. In doing so, this thesis contributes to a wider understanding of how the theoretical work of Foucault and Bourdieu can be applied in the scholarly research of fashion media and histories of fashion. This thesis contributes to the further knowledge of practices in history concerning methodologies of archival research and textual analysis.

L'enjeu de l'étude est de saisir l'organisation du marché russe des modes françaises au XVIIIe-XIXe siècles, d'analyser son évolution et les facteurs dont il est tributaire. Créée artificiellement par les lois vestimentaires de Pierre le Grand, la demande pour les toilettes européennes devient naturelle dans le contexte de la gallomanie. Cependant, la consommation reste principalement étroite et aristocratique en raison de la valeur élevée des produits de mode importés. Pour les fabricants français, la Russie représente un débouché incontournable qui consomme une partie importante des soieries et autres articles de mode. Le marché russe ne se résume pas aux exportations directes indiquées dans statistiques qui sous-estiment son importance, il englobe également un vaste trafic indirect qui transite via l'Allemagne, mais aussi les flux illégaux. L'importation considérable des marchandises françaises de luxe contredit les intérêts des autorités russes qui s'efforcent de la contrôler afin de stimuler les industries nationales. Le marché évolue sous l'impact de la politique douanière protectionniste de l'Empire russe et les guerres qui le rendent instable, en particulier pour les fabricants et les commerçants. Si les échanges sont régulièrement perturbés, ils ne se rompent pas. Les liens entre les fabricants français et les consommateurs russes se révèlent plus forts que les contraintes législatives et les conflits internationaux. L'adaptation du marché russe aux circonstances défavorables passe par la mise en place de nouveaux circuits, légaux ou illicites qui permettent de faire triompher les lois de l'offre et de la demande. / The main purpose of this study is to determine the organisation of the Russian market of French fashion in the XVlllth-XIXth centuries, to analyse its development and the factors that influence it. First created artificially by Peter the Great's decrees on dress, the demand for the European outfits becomes natural in the context of gallomania. However, the consumption is mainly narrow and aristocratic because of the high cost of the imported fashion goods. Russia represents an important outlet for the French manufacturer as it consumes a large part of silk and other fashion products. The Russian market is not limited to the direct exports shown in the statistics which underestimate its importance, it also involves a big traffic that transits via Germany, and the illicit flows. The imports of French luxury goods contradict the interests of the Russian authorities that try to control them in order to stimulate the national industries. The market develops under the influence of the protectionist customs policy of Russian Empire and the wars that make it unstable, especially for the manufacturers and merchants. Despite the fact that the exchanges are often disrupted, they never stop. The links between the French manufacturers and the Russian consumers have turned to be stronger than the legislative compulsions and international conflicts. The adaptation of the Russian market to the difficult circumstances takes place through the appearance of new trade channels, both legal and illegal that make the laws of offer and demand triumph.

Bien qu’ancien, l’engouement de l’Occident pour le tatouage ne paraît pas perdre de sa vigueur. Ainsi trouve-t-on dans ses villes quantité de studios de tatouage, Salons ou magazines spécialisés. L’iconographie de la marque semble être le fruit d’un étonnant syncrétisme, dont l’imaginaire « sauvage » est une importante partie. Tatouages maoris ou calligraphies arabes, dragons ou animaux sauvages, non issus de la culture occidentale, sont en effet des motifs très en vogue. Véritable mode d’expression cutané, le tatouage ethnique indique un certain regard sur le monde, sur l’Autre, comme le chemin que l’on choisit d’emprunter dans l’approche du « sentiment d’être soi ». Depuis les cabinets de curiosités du seizième siècle, le monde occidental collectionne l’Ailleurs en lui attribuant des qualifications parfois approximatives. Paroxysme de l’altérité, le « sauvage » s’oppose en tous points à une contemporanéité résolument urbaine. Il paraît en effet exister une « poétique du sauvage », faite de fantasmes exotiques, et trouvant dans le monde contemporain un écho particulier. Examinant au plus près la thématique des tatouages ethniques et la mettant en relation avec l’engouement grandissant de l’Occident pour les arts premiers et l’exotisme rêvé de l’Autre et de l’Ailleurs, cette thèse tente de déterminer quel est le rôle de cette « poétique du sauvage » dans la construction de soi. Recueillant les témoignages de tatoués ethniques et de tatoueurs, elle met au jour cinq grands types de motivations qui s’entrecroisent et s’inscrivent toutes dans le cadre du récit personnel. / Ancient as it may be the popularity for tattoo does not seem to wane in the West. Indeed, we can find a great number of tattoo studios, exhibitions or magazines in our cities. The iconography of the brand seems to be the result of an amazing syncretism of which the "wild" imagery is an important part. Maori tattoos, Arabic calligraphy, dragons and wild animals, not from Western culture, are indeed very popular patterns. True mode of expressions of the skin, the ethnic tattoo indicates a certain view of the world, a view of the Other, as the path one chooses to follow in order to search for a "sense of self". Since the cabinets of curiosities of the sixteenth century, the Western world collects the Elsewhere in assigning qualifications that are, sometimes, approximate ones. Paroxysm of otherness, in every aspect, the "savage" is in opposition to a decidedly urban contemporary reality. Indeed, a "poetics of the wild" made of exotic fantasies, seems to find an echo in the modern world and is particularly popular. Looking closer to the theme of ethnic tattoo and linking it with the growing popularity in the West for the tribal arts and dreams of the exotic Other and elsewhere, this thesis attempts to determine the role of this "poetics of the wild" in self-construction. Including testimonies from ethnic tattooed individuals, tattoo artists, it uncovers five major types of motivations that are intertwined and that are all part of a personal narrative.

Identity and its different constructions - national, social and personal, for example - are increasingly recognised as fundamental to understanding current and historic cultures. The reflexive relationship of identity issues with sartorial expression is a key concept within dress, fashion and textile studies. This thesis contributes to that growing body of knowledge by developing an understanding of how specific eighteenth century Scotswomen and their families related to their garments, thus bringing together contemporary study methods and understandings of identity with historic manifestations. This study of identity is embedded within an object-study methodology, following investigative practice and cataloguing methods currently used within the international museums community. This assists the secondary purpose of the thesis, which is to highlight a breadth of largely unpublished main garment objects within Scottish public and private collections. The intimate study of these objects has revealed stories of how daily life interacted with personal taste and style, purchase methods, garment use and international markets for individuals connected to Scotland. This has contributed material understanding to wider academic research areas, most importantly the everyday lives of eighteenth century Scotswomen, issues of identity within Scotland, and how European fashion trends were adopted or adapted by individuals outside of the major fashion centres of London and Paris. Study of the garments has involved stylistic analysis of their textiles and of their construction, connecting them to other extant and depicted garments from British and international collections. Thus providing material evidence of international styles in the eighteenth century, and matching two items in a rare example of extant main garments evidencing duplication in the eighteenth century handmade clothing industry.