Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2016-12-06T18:25:41Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Viviane Yamane da Cunha.pdf: 3078841 bytes, checksum: 57a900c84bf20c31ba3b7829338ed286 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-06T18:25:41Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Viviane Yamane da Cunha.pdf: 3078841 bytes, checksum: 57a900c84bf20c31ba3b7829338ed286 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-11-07 / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico / The purpose of this doctoral thesis is the critical examination of persuasion that appear in the ads of beauty products aimed at women, carried on the various sectors of the media, focusing on multimodality that serves it as a means of advertising and ultimately determines the identity of the Brazilian women. The current advertisements are less interested in advertising listing objective properties of objects than linking the product to any entity, effect or person, creating a fusion involving an uncharacterized product with desirable properties. Persuasion, then counts on the creation of a textual world, built on the legitimization phenomenon through strategies employed to justify the course of action, making it legitimate, as well built on the intersubjectivity, which the notion of evaluation involves not only the subjective dimension, but also the intersubjective commitment to other subjectivities. In this world, the ideological metaphor disguising social processes underlying the text, determines its interpretation, and is therefore found in persuasive types of speech such as advertising. This world also has the assistance of the images in the persuasive process that underlies the analyzed advertisements. The research is mainly based on Systemic Functional Linguistics (SFL), a multifunctional theory that assigns three semantic functions (or metafunctions) to language: ideational (referring to the topic); interpersonal (referring to the interaction between speaker and listener) and textual (referring to the construction of the text, taking into account the other two metafunctions). SFL encompasses the appraisal system, the author's evaluation of the text and of the interlocutor. The research should answer the following questions: (a) How is the verb-visual relationship created in advertising beauty products aimed at women? (b) What implicit and explicit ideological aspects can be detected in such discourse? (c) How can the ideological metaphor reveal such aspects? / O objetivo desta tese de doutorado é o exame crítico da persuasão que percorre a propaganda de produtos de beleza destinados ao público feminino, veiculada por vários setores da mídia, com enfoque na multimodalidade que lhe serve como meio de divulgação, e que, em última instância, determinam a identidade da mulher brasileira. A propaganda atual está menos interessada em alistar propriedades objetivas dos objetos do que em ligar o produto a alguma entidade, efeito ou pessoa, criando uma fusão que envolve um produto descaracterizado com propriedades desejáveis. A persuasão conta, então, com a criação de um mundo textual, construído com base no fenômeno da legitimização, por meio de estratégias empregadas para justificar o curso da ação, tornando-a legitimada, bem como da intersubjetividade, em que a noção de avaliação envolve não somente a dimensão subjetiva, mas também o compromisso intersubjetivo com outras subjetividades. Nesse mundo, a metáfora ideológica dissimulando processos sociais subjacentes ao texto, determina sua interpretação, e é, por esse motivo, encontrada em tipos persuasivos de discurso como a propaganda. Esse mundo conta também com o concurso das imagens no processo persuasivo que subjaz às propagandas analisadas. A pesquisa recorre, basicamente, à Linguística Sistêmico-Funcional (LSF), uma teoria multifuncional que atribui três funções semânticas (ou metafunções) à língua: ideacional (referente ao assunto); interpessoal (referente à interação entre falante e ouvinte) e textual (referente à construção do texto, levando em conta as duas outras metafunções). A LSF abriga em seu bojo a avaliatividade, ou seja, o posicionamento avaliativo do autor em relação ao texto e ao interlocutor. A pesquisa deve responder às seguintes perguntas: (a) Como é feita a relação verbovisual na propaganda de produtos de beleza destinada ao público feminino? (b) Que aspectos ideológicos implícitos e explícitos podem ser detectados nesse discurso? (c) Como pode a metáfora ideológica revelar esses aspectos?

El presente proyecto se ha realizado para analizar la producción y comercialización de un modelo de negocio basado en la creación de una crema hidratante a base de aguaje y ungurahui. La finalidad de este proyecto es brindar a las mujeres un producto con propiedades naturales para prevenir el envejecimiento y fortalecer la piel de su rostro. Nuestras principales hipótesis se enfocaron en nuestro público objetivo que fueron mujeres de 30 a 60 años que están dispuestas a cambiar sus marcas tradicionales por cremas con ingredientes naturales como lo es Lisse Natura. Estas hipótesis fueron validadas en mujeres en la ciudad de Lima con el fin de conocer su disposición de compra. En la actualidad, existe muchas marcas de cremas faciales que ofrecen productos con efecto anti edad que utilizan diversas maneras de vender como consultoras de belleza, tiendas físicas, farmacias, entre otros. Sin embargo, se está iniciando ventas de productos naturales a través de ferias ecológicas y redes sociales, los cuales están siendo de mucha acogida por las clientes debido a la facilidad de realizar la compra. Por ello Lisse Natura, está ingresando al mercado a través de ventas por los canales mencionados. La conclusión final del proyecto es que el modelo de negocio presenta una propuesta de un producto innovador que genera rentabilidad para los inversionistas. Así mismo, se puede analizar la escalabilidad del negocio, desde el año 2 en donde muestra una utilidad neta positiva. / This project has been carried out to analyze the production and commercialization of a business model based on the creation of a moisturizer based on aguaje and ungurahui. The purpose of this project is to provide women with a product with natural properties to prevent aging and strengthen the skin of their face. Our main hypotheses focused on our target audience that were women aged 30 to 60 who are willing to change their traditional brands for creams with natural ingredients such as Lisse Natura. These hypotheses were validated in women in the city of Lima in order to know their willingness to buy. Currently, there are many brands of facial creams that offer products with anti-aging effect that use various ways of selling as beauty consultants, physical stores, pharmacies, among others. However, it is starting in the sector the sales in ecological fairs and through social networks the sale of natural products natural products through ecological fairs and social networks, which are being very welcome by customers due to the ease of Be able to make your purchase. That is why Lisse Natura is entering the market through sales through social networks and its website, the aforementioned channels. The final conclusion of the project is that the business model presents a proposal for an innovative product that generates profitability for investors. Likewise, the scalability of the business can be analyzed, since year 2, where it shows a positive net profit. / Trabajo de investigación

El presente proyecto consiste en la edificación de un plan de emprendimiento. Este plan es diseñado en las mujeres de Lima Metropolitana y Callao entre las edades de 30 y 45 años. MultiMask es un producto desarrollado para brindar practicidad, calidad y responsabilidad solidaria no solo con sus clientes sino también para los demás grupos de interés como el medio ambiente. A través de nuestras validaciones, pudimos encontrar que muchas mujeres no suelen darle el debido cuidado a su piel, no porque no quieran sino más bien por falta de tiempo. De ahí el nacimiento innovador de MultiMask, una mascarilla reutilizable con la utilización de una fórmula a base de uva y sábila. De este modo, ofrecemos cuidar la belleza de las mujeres sin que estas sacrifiquen su tiempo. Tras las semanas de duración de este curso, se ha podido validar la viabilidad de este proyecto, por lo que concluimos en que el modelo de negocio presentado genera rentabilidad para sus inversores. Uno de los puntos importantes a mencionar es la estimación del periodo de recupero el cual presenta una utilidad neta positiva al segundo año de operatividad del proyecto. / The present project consists of the creation of an entrepreneurship plan. This plan is designed for the women of Lima and Callao between the ages of 30 and 45 years. MultiMask is a product developed to provide practicality, quality and joint responsibility not only with its customers but also for other stakeholders such as the environment. Through our testings, we found that many women do not typically prioritize their skin care, not because they do not want to, but rather because they lack the time. Hence the innovative birth of MultiMask, a reusable mask with the use of a grape and aloe based formula. Through this, we offer to take care of women´s beauty without sacrificing their time. Throughout the weeks of this course, we were able to successfully validate the viability of this project. Therefore, we conclude that the business model presented in this report generates profitability for its investors. One of the important points to be specified is the description of the recovery period, which presents a positive net profit for the second year of operation of the project. / Trabajo de investigación

Los problemas en la piel como las grietas, heridas y resequedad son constantes tanto en hombres como mujeres. Por esta razón, pensamos en la creación de “Aloelina”, una crema con la que se propone poner fin a una necesidad y problemática que permanece en la sociedad y que, en los últimos años, se ha incrementado de manera significativa. El proyecto se basa en una crema hipoalergénica de componentes naturales como la Lanolina y el Aloe, productos que se pueden adaptar a diferentes tipos de piel. A lo largo del ciclo, hemos logrado validar la idea de negocio a través del planteamiento de hipótesis y la ejecución del Concierge que fue impulsado por las estrategias de marketing en redes sociales. El producto logró tener una buena aceptación por parte del público gracias al valor diferenciado que posee y obtuvo ventas por 283 unidades a la fecha, que están valorizadas en S/. 8,490.00. Asimismo, la empresa tiene como objetivo crecer con el tiempo, tanto en ventas como en capacidad instalada, con la finalidad de lograr atender la demanda proyectada y expandirse a otros territorios. Gracias a la proyección de flujos de efectivo traídos a valor presente, lo cual nos indica que el proyecto es viable y sostenible en el tiempo. / Skin problems such as cracks, wounds and dryness are constant in both men and women. For this reason, we think of the creation of “Aloelina”, a cream with which it is proposed to end a need and problem that remains in society and that, in recent years, has increased significantly. The project is based on a hypoallergenic cream of natural components such as Lanolin and Aloe, products that can be adapted to different skin types. Throughout the cycle, we have managed to validate the business idea through the hypothesis approach and the execution of the Concierge that was driven by social media marketing strategies. The product managed to have a good acceptance by the public thanks to the differentiated value it has and obtained sales for 283 units to date, which are valued at S /. 8,490.00. Likewise, the company aims to grow over time, both in sales and in installed capacity, in order to meet the projected demand and expand to other territories. Thanks to the projection of cash flows brought at present value, which indicates that the project is viable and sustainable over time. / Trabajo de investigación

El lujo es una tendencia de crecimiento en el Perú (Nielsen 2018) , existen cambios mercado y prácticas del consumidor de lujo peruano. Sin embargo, existe información escaza sobre la adaptabilidad de los factores del lujo al mercado peruano. Las percepciones de valor de lujo se adaptan de manera diferente a cada uno de los mercados, por lo que, en la presente investigación se estudiará las percepciones de valor de lujo de hombre y mujeres de 18 a más al momento de comprar productos de lujo accesible. Las variables que se han elegido son valor financiera, funcional, social, individual y experiencial. Para lograr comprobar las hipótesis que se plantean en el presente estudio se ha realizado una investigación mixta. En el estudio cualitativo se realizó focus y entrevistas a personas que habían consumido lujo en los últimos 6 meses. Al mismo tiempo, se realizaron cuatro entrevistas a expertos. En el estudio cuantitativo, se realizó una encuesta online, la cual se aplicó a 290 consumidores de lujo.  El análisis que se realizó fue de tipo correlacional entre la intención de compra y los cinco valores de percepción de lujo que se analizaron. Finalmente, luego de procesar la información, se obtuvo que sí existe una relación estadísticamente significativa (positiva) entre la atmósfera de tienda, valor funcional e individual con la intención de compra. Mientras que, no existe una relación estadísticamente significativa (positiva) entre el valor financiero y valor social con la intención de compra. / In order to verify the hypotheses raised in this study, a mixed investigation has been carried out. In the qualitative study, focus and interviews with accessible luxury consumers were carried out. Also, four interviews with luxury experts were applied. In the quantitative study, a survey was conducted, which was applied to 290 luxury consumers. In addition, the performed analysis was correlational between the purchase intention and the five-luxury value perception that were analyzed. After processing the information, the results show us there is a statistically significant (positive) relationship between the store atmosphere, functional and individual value with purchase intention. While, there is no statistically significant (positive) relationship between financial value and social value with purchase intention. / Trabajo de investigación

La presente investigación es un estudio cuantitativo relacionado con las estrategias promocionales (promoción de venta) y la intención de compra de personas. El objetivo general para esta investigación es determinar la relación de la promoción de venta en la decisión de compra de productos de belleza en tiendas de retail, el cual conlleva a analizar y entender la importancia de la promoción hoy en día. La metodología utilizada está basada en la investigación – acción, el cual permite la observación directa del investigador hacia los resultados obtenidos, estos serán analizados desde un enfoque cuantitativo. La muestra utilizada para esta investigación depende del público objetivo, pero debido a que es no probabilístico, será una muestra de 250 personas, el cual son mujeres de 20 a 49 años de edad, las cuales fueron encuestadas en el centro comercial Jockey Plaza. La conclusión más significativa de este trabajo es que las promociones son importantes y sí son consideradas al momento previo de la compra. / The present investigation is a quantitative study related to the degree of influence that promotional strategies (sales promotion) can have on the decision to purchase people. The general objective for this research is to determine the relationship of the sales promotion in the decision to buy beauty products in retail stores, which leads to analyze and understand the importance of the promotion today. The methodology used is based on research - action, which allows the direct observation of the researcher towards the results obtained, these will be analyzed from a quantitative approach. The sample used for this research depends on the target audience, but because it is not probabilistic, it will be a sample of 250 people, who are women from 20 to 49 years old who were surveyed at the Jockey Plaza shopping center. The most significant conclusion obtained in this study was that for people promotional strategies are important and it´s considered in their decision when buying. / Tesis

The beauty industry has been around for centuries and keeps growing and developing daily. The industry has not been slowing down during the spread of the virus covid-19 but has had a fast platform change. Most brands today are available online and promoted by influencers on social media platforms. However, the question remains if it is achievable to get an equivalent experience of beauty products that one would get in-store online as when scrolling on social media.The purpose of this study was to see how beauty companies work with sensory marketing on their own and through influencers' social media platforms, with the effect of captivating young women's interest in their products and brand. The question of whether the effect of sensory marketing and the persona that influencers effuse on beauty products was a new gap. It was also interesting to see if customers are affected by sensory marketing and influencers when making an online beauty purchase decision. Beauty products are personal and specific and often seen as complex to buy online since they have particular formulations, scents, and colors. The empirical findings are conducted through a pilot interview with an extensive beauty company in the Swedish beauty sector. The interview with the head of sales gave the ground information and peeked into the workaround influencer and sensory marketing. Then that information could be used as a base for the questions in structured customer interviews. The findings were then presented and analyzed with the literature review to make a final result and answer the question.The conclusion of the thesis showed that the young women in generation Z were a part of the online beauty movement. Considering that most young women followed influencers where they got to learn, explore and get an insight, they could easily make purchase decisions. The result showed a positive effect on the combinations of influencers and sensory marketing on generation Z due to their perception. The result also showed a more significant effect on the trust of a persona than sensory marketing, as getting to know the influencer's personality had a more significant impact than something being aesthetically pleasing.

The aim of this paper is to evaluate the loyalty system of Lancôme Beauty Institute and ascertain with the use of questionnaire investigation the satisfaction of customers with offered benefits and alternatively suggest the possibilities of improvement of the system. The theoretical part is focused on the general definition of customer satisfaction. The important part is recruitment, maintaining and motivation of current and potential customers. The practical part describes the functioning of the loyalty system of Lancôme Beauty Institute, the stages of development and implications of changes in the loyalty system. The questionnaire investigation was used to ascertain the satisfaction with loyalty system as well as to find the main imperfections -- the data were gathered, classified and analysed.

本論文探討在女性時尚雜誌中，美容用品廣告所使用的社會語用策略及語言手段。在本研究中，以Cook (2001)的廣告方法，Searle (1969)的適切條件，Grice (1975)的合作原則，以及Leech (1983)的禮貌原則做為分析的準則。 研究中分析的資料來自兩本女性時尚雜誌，Beauty和Elle。在語料量化分析方面，收錄了200條廣告詞，均分為兩類美容用品：化妝品和保養品。此外，在訪談質化分析方面，有12位女性受訪，以便評量4條選定的廣告詞之可信度。 語料的量化分析顯示：(1) 不同種類的美容用品有偏好的廣告方式。(2) 合作原則和禮貌原則的分配情形不同。(3) 以女性意識形態來說，化妝品廣告和保養品廣告有相異之處。(4) 不同的語言手段被用來廣告這兩類美容用品。 訪談的質化分析顯示：(1) 受訪者的社會背景(教育程度和年齡)影響她們對廣告的態度。(2) 不同的廣告方式影響受訪者對廣告的態度。(3) 廣告的類別不影響受訪者在適切條件、合作原則、以及禮貌原則上對廣告的態度。基於以上的分析，可以發現潛在消費者對說服力的認知與廣告主不吻合。也就是說，消費者不認為所分析的廣告有說服力，這顯示廣告無法滿足消費者的需求。本研究建議廣告主應該從消費者的觀點出發並補救這個問題。 / This study aims at exploring the sociopragmatic strategies and the linguistic devices employed in the beauty product advertisements in women’s fashion magazines. In this study, Cook’s advertising approach (2001), Searle’s Felicity Conditions (1969), Grice’s Cooperative Principle (1975), and Leech’s Politeness Principle (1983) are the criteria for analyses. This study takes both quantitative analyses and qualitative analyses. For quantitative analyses, 200 pieces of advertisements were collected from two women’s fashion magazines, Beauty and Elle. These data are equally distributed to two types of beauty products: cosmetic products and skin-care products. In addition, for qualitative analyses, twelve women were interviewed to evaluate the effectiveness of the elements contained in four pieces of advertisements selected. Results of quantitative analyses show (1) that hard-sell approach is preferred on beauty products; (2) that the distribution of the maxims of Cooperative Principle is that Quality Maxim and Manner Maxim are obeyed most frequently, but Quantity Maxim is violated most often; (3) that the distribution of the maxims of Politeness Principle is that Tact Maxim and Modesty Maxim are implemented the most frequently; (4) that cosmetic ads and skin-care ads emphasize on different components of woman ideology; (5) different linguistic devices are used to advertise the two types of beauty products. The qualitative analyses of the data show (1) that the subjects’ social backgrounds (in this case, education level and age) do affect their attitudes of persuasiveness toward advertisements; (2) that different advertising approaches do influence the subjects’ attitudes toward the advertisements; (3) that advertisements of different types of beauty products do not influence the subjects’ attitudes toward the advertisements no matter by Felicity Conditions, by Cooperative Principle, or by Politeness Principle. Based on the analyses given above, it is found that the subjects’ perception of persuasiveness does not match with that of the advertiser’s. To these potential consumers, those advertisements analyzed are not persuasive, which indicates that the advertisements fail to satisfy the consumer’s demands. It is suggested that the advertiser takes the consumer’s perspective to promote the persuasiveness of advertisements and the consumer’s acceptance of the commodities to be sold.

La presente tesis tiene como objetivo principal determinar si existe relación entre la credibilidad y la interacción para-social de los Influencers con la intención de compra de productos de moda y maquillaje en la generación Y y Z de Lima Metropolitana. Para ello, se realizó un estudio cuantitativo correlacional, no experimental y transeccional, el cual busca determinar ¿cuál es la relación de las variables de estudio, respecto a la intención de compra de productos de moda y maquillaje? El instrumento de investigación que se utilizó fue un cuestionario online para recopilar datos (n=451 encuestas válidas). El cual se realizó mediante la herramienta de Google Forms y fue destinado al público objetivo, hombres y mujeres que siguen a un influencer, entre los 13 a 35 años de edad. Para medir si existe relación entre la intención de compra y las variables credibilidad e interacción parasocial se realizó el análisis correlacional y los resultados demostraron que si existe una relación entre las variables de estudio y la intención de compra de productos de moda y maquillaje. El estudio recomienda a las empresas que aún no han optado por las estrategias de marketing de influencia, a que lo realicen ya que los costos pueden ser menores a la publicidad del marketing tradicional y se obtendrá mayor cantidad de ventas y presencia en el mercado. La tesis consta de 5 capítulos. En el primer capítulo, se presentan los antecedentes de la investigación basándose en papers o estudios de diferentes países, analizando la metodología de investigación que utilizaron, luego se mostrarán las bases teóricas que explican las variables y el marco referencial, el cual explica la investigación en el sector investigado. En el segundo capítulo, se analizó la situación de la problemática, se desarrollaron las hipótesis y objetivos de la investigación. En el tercer capítulo, se explica la metodología de trabajo, el tipo de investigación, la operalización de las variables, el proceso de muestreo y se define el instrumento. En el cuarto capítulo, se desarrolló la interpretación de los resultados cuantitativos y se presentan los resultados del análisis estadístico, el cual contempla el análisis de correlación, análisis de fiabilidad y la prueba de normalidad. En el último capítulo, se realizó el análisis de los resultados de trabajo de campo complementándose con la contrastación de hipótesis, discusión y limitaciones de estudio. Por último, la presente tesis contiene una sección de conclusiones y recomendaciones. / The main objective of this thesis is to determine if there is a relationship between the credibility and the para-social interaction of the Influencers with the intention of buying fashion and makeup products in the Y and Z generation of Metropolitan Lima. For this, a quantitative correlational, non-experimental and transactional study was carried out, which seeks to determine what is the relationship of the study variables, with respect to the intention to purchase fashion and makeup products? The research instrument used was an online questionnaire to collect data (n = 451 valid surveys). Which was done through the Google Forms tool and was aimed at the target audience, men and women who follow an influencer, between 13 to 35 years of age. To measure whether there is a relationship between the purchase intention and the credibility and parasocial interaction variables, the correlational analysis was carried out and the results showed that there is a relationship between the study variables and the intention to purchase fashion and makeup products. The study recommends companies that have not yet opted for influencer marketing strategies, to do so since the costs may be lower than traditional marketing advertising and a greater amount of sales and presence in the market will be obtained. The thesis consists of 5 chapters. In the first chapter, the background of the research is presented based on papers or studies from different countries, analyzing the research methodology they used, then the theoretical bases that explain the variables and the referential framework will be shown, which explains the research in the investigated sector. In the second chapter, the situation of the problem was analyzed, the hypotheses and objectives of the research were developed. In the third chapter, the work methodology, the type of research, the operationalization of the variables, the sampling process and the instrument are defined. In the fourth chapter, the interpretation of the quantitative results was developed and the results of the statistical analysis are presented, which includes the correlation analysis, reliability analysis and the normality test. In the last chapter, the analysis of the results of field work was carried out, complementing it with the contrasting of hypotheses, discussion and study limitations. Finally, this thesis contains a section with conclusions and recommendations. / Tesis