This is a case analysis according to the author’s working experience in P&G. This thesis focuses on the consignment stores in the market of home products. The author takes apart the channel functions into eight flows, and uses 4 types of transaction cost to discuss the relationship between manufacturers and retailers.

Made available in DSpace on 2013-08-07T18:47:17Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 000385917-Texto+Completo-0.pdf: 7880471 bytes, checksum: 0d923bdf780bf9da4321308923280f1a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006 / This thesis examines the Chanel Brand and its interfaces with Communication and Myth. Understanding the paradox of ephemerality versus perenniality has been the main focus of this study, since the notion of Brand is connected with time, which is paramount to the construction of Brand. On the other hand, Fashion refers to the idea of ephemerality, whose notion of time is associated with the validity of one season’s collection. The present study was based on the theories and categories proposed in Morin’s Communication, together with subcategories Brand, Identity and Color in the work of Semprini and Farina, respectively; Lipovetsky’s Fashion, and Barthes’s Myth and Power. Later, other categories were added, namely Barthes’s Antithesis, Imaginary and Culture, as well as Maffesoli’s Post Modernity. The Complexity Paradigm was adopted for this study. Through this paradigm it was seen that the causes of Complexity are various and they move in spirals, hosting both antitheses and uncertainties which, when viewed from different perspectives, look like a kaleidoscope. The technique in Barthes’s Semiology was also used here for the study of the ABST of the Chanel Brand. This paper also points out issues of the connotation field - the Myth. The Myth is a conditioning element in social reality, through which the Chanel Brand and the Identity of the Brand become natural and eternal, by basing its design on comfort and freedom of movements for women. Chanel focuses on the woman, particularly, the Third Woman, the one who is both free and submissive. / Nesta tese, estudaremos a Marca Chanel nas suas interfaces com a comunicação e com o Mito. Buscaremos, em especial, a compreensão do paradoxo enfermidade versus perenidade, visto que a noção de Marca está vinculada ao tempo, indispensável à sua edificação. A Moda, por sua vez, nos remete à idéia de efemeridade, sua noção de tempo está associada à validade de coleção de uma estação. A fim de fundamentarmos a nossa reflexão, elegemos alguns teóricos, enfocando algumas das categorias usadas por eles, quais sejam: Comunicação, de Morin, a qual é acompanhada das subcategorias Marca, Identidade e Cor, trabalhadas por Semprini e Farina, respectivamente; Moda, de Lipovetsky; e Poder, de Barthes. Elegemos, ainda algumas categorias, a posteriori: Antítese, Imaginário e Cultura, de Barthes; e Pós-Modernidade, de Maffesoli. Como guia para nossa compreensão, será adotado o Paradigma da Complexidade. Através dele, percebemos que as causas da Complexidade são diversas, e que tendem a se movimentar em espiral, abrigando antíteses e incertezas, que sob olhares diferentes, nos propiciam a visão de um caleidoscópio. A Semiologia de Barthes nos acompanhará nesta trajetória, prestando-se de técnica pela qual observaremos a Comunicação da Marca Chanel. Durante nosso percurso, evidenciaremos questões no campo da conotação: o Mito, elemento condicionante da realidade social, que eterniza a naturaliza a Marca Chanel e a Identidade da Marca, que se alicerça na liberdade de movimentos e no conforto feminino. Chanel nos remete à mulher, mais especificadamente, à Terceira Mulher, aquela que é livre, porém, simultaneamente, submissa.

Submitted by Eliana Barboza (eliana.silva1@mackenzie.br) on 2018-03-07T17:09:39Z No. of bitstreams: 2 Mônica Abed Zaher.pdf: 7030706 bytes, checksum: 328ffaf89fa748afd37d20ebf2b134c9 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Paola Damato (repositorio@mackenzie.br) on 2018-03-08T11:16:06Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 Mônica Abed Zaher.pdf: 7030706 bytes, checksum: 328ffaf89fa748afd37d20ebf2b134c9 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-03-08T11:16:06Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 Mônica Abed Zaher.pdf: 7030706 bytes, checksum: 328ffaf89fa748afd37d20ebf2b134c9 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-11-27 / The present study of a biographical nature, investigates the up-to-dateness and contemporaneity of stylist Coco Chanel’s (1883-1971) creations, setting her into context in the universe of culture and arts in this period. Her contribution for the study in these areas, through fashion, while being a language and aesthetic manifestation presents unquestionable relevance: fashion reflects the culture of people, of a time, of a society. Despite its ephemeral nature as a product for consumption, the strength of fashion is present by communicating far beyond taste. Fashion also communicates a need for expression, it dates a fact, represents a thought and puts into context the situations of a particular time. The research on Gabrielle Chanel and her style highlights historical facts related to the specific timeframe in her life to situate not only the conditions under which her work developed, but also the aspirations of a society that already experienced innovations. The analysis of all the material collected allows: to point out the importance of clothing, especially for women, strengthening the feminist questions of the time: working women, with the right to vote and to have a voice; identify the changes in women’s day-to-day attitudes, the choice of clothing, practice of sports, sunbathing and keeping the elegance without femininity having to be exposed to sensuality and reflect on the importance of creativity and innovation in all cultural and artistic manifestations of the XXth century. That is, her cultural legacy holds the weight of the change in times. / O presente estudo de caráter biográfico investiga a atualidade e contemporaneidade das criações da estilista Coco Chanel (1883-1971), contextualizando-a no universo da cultura e das artes desse período. A sua contribuição para o estudo dessas áreas, por meio da moda, enquanto linguagem e manifestação estética apresenta relevância incontestável: a moda reflete a cultura de um povo, de uma época, de uma sociedade. Apesar de sua efemeridade como produto de consumo, a força da moda se faz presente ao comunicar muito além do gosto. Comunica também uma necessidade de expressão, data um fato, representa um pensamento e as atitudes de uma época. A pesquisa sobre Gabrielle Chanel e seu estilo destaca fatos históricos relacionados à época específica de sua vida para situar não apenas condições em que seu trabalho se desenvolveu, mas também as aspirações de uma sociedade que já contava com inovações. A análise de todo o material coletado permite : apontar a importância da vestimenta em especial para a mulher fortalecendo as questões feministas da época: mulheres trabalhadoras, com direito ao voto e à voz; identificar a mudança de atitudes do cotidiano feminino, da escolha da roupa à prática de esportes, ao banho de sol e à manutenção da elegância sem que a feminilidade precisasse ser exposta ao sensual e refletir sobre a importância da criatividade e inovação em todas as manifestações culturais e artísticas do século XX. Ou seja, seu legado cultural possui o peso da mudança dos tempos.

Knowledge of the channel over which signals are sent is of prime importance in modern wireless communications. Inaccurate or incomplete channel information leads to high error rates and wasted bandwidth and energy. Although active channel measurement is commonly used to gain channel knowledge, it can only accurately represent the channel at the time the measurement was taken, makes energy and bandwidth demands, and adds significant complexity to the radio system. Due to the highly time variant nature of wireless channels, active measurements become invalid almost as soon as they are taken, making alternative approaches to predicting future behaviour highly attractive. Such systems would allow maximum advantage to be taken of the limited bandwidth available and make significant power savings. This thesis investigates a number of complementary technologies, leading towards a channel prediction scheme suitable for mobile devices. As a first step towards channel prediction, anomaly detection is investigated within periodic wireless signals to establish when radical changes in the channel occur. In pre- vious experiments, long monotonic sequences had been observed to coincide with certain anomalies but not others when using Kullback-Leibler Divergence (KLD) analysis, possibly allowing the characterisation of anomaly types. An investigation is described to explain the origin of these features in a rigorous mathematical sense. A proof is given for the causes of the monotonic sequences, followed by a discussion of the types of signal anomaly which would underly such a feature and the value of this information. The second part describes a novel channel characterisation method which uses a class of Recurrent Neural Network (RNN) called an Echo State Network (ESN). Using this tool, a channel characterisation system can be constructed without an explicit statistical or mathematical model of the wireless environment, relying instead on observed data. This approach is much more convenient than existing models which require detailed information about the wireless system's parameters and also allows for new channel classifications to be added easily. It is able to achieve double the correct classification rate of a conventional statistical classifier, and is computationally simple to implement, making it ideal for inclusion on low-power mobile devices. Following their successful use in characterisation, ESNs are used in the final part in an investigation into channel prediction in a number of different scenarios. They were however found to be unable to produce useful predictions for all but the most trivial channel models. An alternative method is described for indoor environments using an approach inspired by ray tracing. It is simple and computationally lightweight to implement, again making it suitable for mobile devices. Simulation results show that it can outperform pilot-assisted methods by a significant margin, while not wasting bandwidth on channel measurement.

Design e Marketing. Duas áreas do conhecimento que, graças à amplitude de atuação, permitem agregar valor a produtos, podendo atuar separadamente ou em conjunto. Mesmo antes de serem áreas consagradas profissionalmente, já apresentavam caminhos que demonstravam ser possível estas interdependências de atuação. Esta pesquisa inicia abordando conceitos de Design e Marketing e toma, como estudo de caso, o trabalho desenvolvido pela estilista Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, no início do século XX. / Design and Marketing. Two areas of knowledge that, due to their wide range of actuation that both provide, can work apart or together in order to be a plus to many products. Even before being professionally acknowledged fields, they both established ways that shown to be possible those acting interdependences. This research starts analising Design and Marketing concepts and takes Mademoiselle Gabrielle Bonheur Chanels work as a case study in early twentieth century.

Design e Marketing. Duas áreas do conhecimento que, graças à amplitude de atuação, permitem agregar valor a produtos, podendo atuar separadamente ou em conjunto. Mesmo antes de serem áreas consagradas profissionalmente, já apresentavam caminhos que demonstravam ser possível estas interdependências de atuação. Esta pesquisa inicia abordando conceitos de Design e Marketing e toma, como estudo de caso, o trabalho desenvolvido pela estilista Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, no início do século XX. / Design and Marketing. Two areas of knowledge that, due to their wide range of actuation that both provide, can work apart or together in order to be a plus to many products. Even before being professionally acknowledged fields, they both established ways that shown to be possible those acting interdependences. This research starts analising Design and Marketing concepts and takes Mademoiselle Gabrielle Bonheur Chanels work as a case study in early twentieth century.

Glamour is an ideal that permeates our highly visual culture, yet the concept still remains indefinite. Despite its highly ideological function, it has been included in the academic discourse only in the recent years. The aim of this study is to broaden the understanding of glamour as a modern phenomenon and elaborate it as an analytical concept. This is achieved by examining the advertising imagery of Chanel No. 5, the legendary French perfume from the influential haute-couturier and socialite Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The theoretical frame consists of the history of glamour as well as the semiology of advertising. Semiology is also used as a method for analysing the adverts. The journey with Chanel No. 5 starts from the year of its creation, 1921, and one advert from every decade is chosen to a closer interrogation. Based on eight semiological analyses of Chanel No. 5's adverts, I argue that glamour is a media myth that becomes activated through a system of signs. The glamour of Chanel No. 5 depends on the use of celebrity personas, on skillful and exclusive media treatment, and on the circulation of signs which connote luxury and feminine sexuality, yet always with a fresh, contemporary touch. In the end, glamour is a highly manufactured, unattainable ideal which entices and invites for consumption.

A lot of women buy handbags from Chanel, even though they cost thousands of Euros, and this study aim to examine why. Are the bags to be considered investments, utility items, or status symbols? The research is primarily performed through qualitative interviews of seven women, both owners of Chanel bags and non-owners. The material has been processed and analysed with a discourse perspective focusing on communication of identity through clothing and accessories and regulation of power within and between groups. The study shows that the image of a person who owns a Chanel bag changes in a context where the observer is aware of the symbolic value of the bag. In a context where the observer does not recognise the Chanel bag, this change does not occur. Owning a Chanel bag gives in some groups, where expensive bags are norm, higher status within the group. Outside the group, the bag may cause discomfort and negative comments. For those who buy a Chanel bag, neither is the investment nor the need to communicate financial status a priority. Thewomen buy it primarily to reward themselves for hard work and successful thriftiness. It gives an increased sense of self-esteem and a sense of joy to own an aesthetically pleasing item of high quality and historic value. However, within the group of women interviewed, there is a prevailing view that there are women who, after all, buy them as a status symbol, but no one considers themselves to belong to that group. / Denna kandidatuppsats syfte är att ta reda på varför vissa kvinnor köper handväskor från Chanel, trots attde kostar tiotusentals kronor. Den undersöker om väskorna kan betraktas som investering, bruksföremål,eller statussymbol. Forskningen bedrivs i första hand genom kvalitativa intervjuer av sju kvinnor, både ägaretill Chanel-väskor och icke-ägare. Intervjumaterialet transkriberas, bearbetas och analyseras ur ettdiskursperspektiv med fokus på grupptillhörighet, kommunikation av identitet genom klädsel ochaccessoarer, samt maktförhållanden inom och mellan grupper. Studien visar att bilden av en person som äger en Chanel-väska förändras i en kontext där omgivningen ärmedveten om väskans symboliska värde. I en kontext där man inte känner till Chanel-väskan sker inte dennaförändring. Att äga en Chanel-väska ger i vissa grupper, där dyra väskor är en norm, högre status inomgruppen. Utanför gruppen kan istället väskan leda till obehag och negativa kommentarer. För den somköper en Chanel-väska är varken investeringen eller behovet av att kommunicera ekonomisk status avmedveten prioritet. Kvinnorna köper den i första hand för att belöna sig själva för att de arbetat hårt ochlyckats spara ihop till den. Den ger en förhöjd självkänsla och en känsla av njutning av att äga ett estetiskttilltalande föremål av hög kvalitet och omtalad historia. Inom den grupp av kvinnor som intervjuas finnsdock en rådande uppfattning om att det existerar kvinnor som trots allt köper dem som en statussymbol,men ingen anser sig själv tillhöra dem.

I uppsatsen undersöks hur fyra biografiförfattare skildrar Coco Chanels liv genom respektives val av de områden, händelser och attribut som de valt att belysa. Teorierna utgår ifrån Burkes fabrikationsprocess som innebär att fabrikation och mytologisering ofta kan förekomma vid historiska återberättande av personer och händelser. Dessa tillsammans med författarens personliga intressen kan skapa olika versioner av en persons öde. Yvonne Hirdmans tes om att kvinnor, i historiska sammanhang beskrivs på ett särskilt vis används också. Och sist Hermansson Adlers tanke om att det är nästan enbart kvinnor från de högre klasserna som är av intresse. Med hjälp av textanalys granskas materialet kritiskt och på så sätt kan en tentativ tolkning göras av de bakomliggande faktorer som författare använder. Uppsatsens resultat är att beroende på författarens erfarenheter och personliga intressen kommer olika delar av Coco Chanels liv belysas och olika aspekter betonas mer eller mindre. En aspekt är att hos en biografiförfattare får, männen i hennes liv, större plats och beskrivningarna kretsar mycket kring hennes känslor. Trots olikheterna sammanstrålar de ändå slutligen i en gemensam bild.

The thesis contains basic information about propeler turbines. It deals with the correct location in the fountain so as to ensure the highest possible performance. Part of the work is devoted to the all-weather resulting blade to blade channels and their impact on the room is filled with diffuser.