Titel: Från avfall till resurs: Hinder och möjligheter för uppskalning av cirkulära affärsmodeller i klädindustrin Bakgrund: Dagens resursutnyttjande är inte hållbart och det ökade fokuset kring cirkulära lösningar uppmanar till både behov och intresse för förändring. Dessa anpassningar handlar bland annat om att övergå från en linjär till en cirkulär affärsmodell för att göra bättre nyttjande våra resurser. Cirkulära affärsmodeller blir allt viktigare, men hur dessa kan skalas upp finns utrymme att vidare studera. Syfte: Syftet med denna studie är att identifiera centrala faktorer som har inverkan påskalbarheten av cirkulära affärsmodeller i klädindustrin. Metod: Studien använder en kvalitativ forskningsstrategi med en fallstudiedesign. Forskningsperspektivet i studien är hermeneutiskt och har kompletterats med en abduktiv ansats för att vidareutveckla det hermeneutiska tillvägagångssättet och skapa förståelse. Empirin i studien baseras på nio semistrukturerade intervjuer med både företag och experter från olika multinationella företag. Slutligen används en tematisk analys som analysmetod. Slutsats: Studien har identifierat sex hinder och sex möjliggörare för att skala upp den cirkulära affärsmodellen i klädindustrin. Dessa faktorer identifierades utifrån en analysmodell som byggde på strukturell, strategisk och operativ nivå där vissa faktorer var mer centrala än andra. De hindrenmed den mest avgörande betydelsen för uppskalning av cirkulära affärsmodellen var; eftersläpande och bristfälliga regelverk, komplexa värdekedjor och resurstillgänglighet. De möjliggörarna med den mest avgörande betydelsen var; proaktiva regelverk, samarbete och partnerskap och resurseffektivisering. / Title: From waste to resource: Barriers and enablers for scaling up circular business models in the clothing industry Background: The current use of resources is not sustainable and the increased focus on circular solutions is prompting both the need and interest in change. These adaptations include moving from a linear to a circular business model in order to make better use of our resources. Circular business models are becoming increasingly important, but there is room to study how these can reach scalability. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to identify key factors influencing the scalability of circular business models in the fashion industry. Method: The study utilizes a qualitative research strategy with a case study design. The research perspective in the study is hermeneutic and has been complemented with an abductive approach to further develop the hermeneutic approach and create a modified understanding. The empirical data in the study is based on nine semi-structured interviews with both companies and experts from various multinational corporations. A thematic analysis is employed as the analytical method. Conclusion: The study has identified six barriers and six enablers for scaling up the circular business model in the clothing industry. These factors were identified using an analytical model based on structural, strategic and operational levels, with some factors being more central than others. The barriers with the most crucial importance for scaling up the circular business model were; lagging and inadequate regulations, complex value chains and resource availability. The enablers with the most crucial importance were; proactive regulations, collaboration and partnerships, and resource efficiency. Keywords: Circular business model, resource management, clothing industry, scalability.

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The purposes of this study were to determine if petite women have a positive or negative body cathexis, to see if petite women perceive themselves as having garment fit and style proportion problems, and to explore the relationships between these variables and selected demographic information. The sample was made up of 132 Spiegel catalog shoppers. The sample ranged in height from 4'9" to 5'6" with 670/0 being 5'2" and under. Results for the 5'2" and under were looked at separately. The total sample was satisfied with all the body cathexis variables except for thighs and stomach. The 5'2" and under petites were satisfied with all the variables except four, leg length, hips, stomach, and height. Most of the fit problems were associated with length. The majority of the sample 5'2" and under reported available clothing too long in the sleeves, skirts, pants, and crotch depth. Most of the style proportion problems reported in this research were associated with the length of garments and garment components. The miscellaneous items that created the most problems for this sample were pocket location and dart location. These problems were more predominate for the 5'2" and under sample. Over 50% of 5'2" and under sample reported problems with lengths and pocket location. And at least 25% of them reported problems in 22 other areas. There did not appear to be any relationship between the perceived garment fit variables and style proportion problems and the body cathexis variables, nor between the demographics and the perceived garment fit and the style proportion problems The majority of the sample shopped at mail order stores (catalogs) and department stores. The department most often shopped was the petite department. The majority of the women had their ready-to-wear clothing altered to achieve a better fit and solve their style proportion problems. The majority (74%) was not satisfied with the current petite clothing available. The most conclusive data in this study pertained to the implication of problems with dart location and pocket placement. The garment proportion in relation to darts and pocket placement were inappropriate for some of these petite subjects. / Master of Science

Master of Science

Yes / In this paper we explore how paying a living wage in global supply chains might affect employment and carbon emissions: Sustainable Development Goals 8 and 13. Previous work has advocated using wage increases for poorer workers to increase prices for wealthier consumers, thereby reducing consumption and associated environmental damage. However, the likely effects of such an approach remain unclear. Using an input-output framework extended with income and demand elasticities, we estimate the employment and carbon effects of paying a living wage to Brazilian, Russian, Indian and Chinese (BRIC) workers in the Western European clothing supply chain. We find negligible effects on carbon emissions but a substantial increase in BRIC employment under 3 scenarios of consumer behaviour. Changes in Western European consumption lead to small decreases in global carbon emissions and BRIC employment. However, the increase in BRIC wages increases demand in BRIC. This increased demand increases production which largely cancels out the carbon savings and generates net increases in BRIC employment. We conclude by arguing that paying higher wages in global supply chains represents a good but not sufficient step toward achieving the Sustainable Development Goals.

Yes / This paper explores the issue of fairness in global supply chains. Taking the Western European clothing supply chain as a case study, we demonstrate how applying a normative indicator in Social Life Cycle Assessment (SLCA) can contribute academic and practical insights into debates on fairness. To do so, we develop a new indicator that addresses some of the limitations of the living wage for SLCA. We extend the standard form of living wage available for developing countries to include income tax and social security contributions. We call this extension 'living labour compensation'. Using publically available data, we estimate net living wages, gross living wages, and living labour compensation rates for Brazil, Russia, India, and China (BRIC) in 2005. We then integrate living labour compensation rates into an input-output framework, which we use to compare living labour compensation and actual labour compensation in the BRIC countries in the Western European clothing supply chain in 2005. We find that in 2005, actual labour compensation in the Western European clothing supply chain was around half of the living labour compensation level, with the greatest difference being in the Agricultural sector. Therefore, we argue that BRIC pay in the Western European clothing supply chain was unfair. Furthermore, our living labour compensation estimates for BRIC in 2005 are ~ 35% higher than standard living wage estimates. Indeed, adding income taxes and employee social security contributions alone increases the living wage by ~ 10%. Consequently, we argue there is a risk that investigations based on living wages are not using a representative measure of fairness from the employee's perspective and are substantially underestimating the cost of living wages from an employer's perspective. Finally, we discuss implications for retailers and living wage advocacy groups. Living labour compensation extends the living wage, maintaining its strengths and addressing key weaknesses. It can be estimated for multiple countries from publically available data and can be applied in an input-output framework. Therefore, it is able to provide a normative assessment of fairness in complex global supply chains. Applying it to the Western European clothing supply chain, we were able to show that pay for workers in Brazil, Russia, India, and China is unfair, and draw substantive conclusions for practice.

Yes / Rising demand for cheaper textiles and clothing in Western Europe is well documented, as are changes in the Textiles and Clothing industry's globalised production structure. We apply a sub-systems global multi-regional input–output accounting framework to examine the sustainability implications of meeting Western European demand for textiles and clothing goods between 1995 and 2009. Our framework estimates environmental and socio-economic impacts of consumption in a consistent manner and shows where these occur both geographically and in the value chain. The results demonstrate that Western European textiles and clothing consumption remains dependent on low-cost labour from Brazil, Russia, India and China (BRIC), principally in the Textiles and Clothing and Agricultural sectors. Conversely, we show that the wage rate for BRIC workers in the global value chains serving Western European textiles and clothing consumption has risen over time but remains low relative to the wage rate paid to Western European workers. Likewise, we find that profits are increasingly generated within BRIC and that they are now at comparable levels to those generated in Western Europe. We find a slight overall decrease in the amount of carbon emitted in the production of textiles and clothing goods for Western Europe between 1995 and 2009. However, the trend is not linear and the importance of different underlying drivers varies over the timeseries. We conclude by discussing the implications of these results for a more sustainable future for Western European textiles and clothing consumption.

No / In this chapter we use global multi-regional input-output analysis to explore how globalisation has impacted fairness along Western European clothing supply chains. Our analysis shows that while globalisation has made the Western European clothing supply chain ‘fairer’ by increasing employment opportunities and income for workers in Brazil, Russia, India and China (BRIC), it has failed to make the supply chain fair. Despite large increases in the labour compensation received by BRIC workers in the Western European clothing supply chain, labour compensation is still insufficient to support a decent standard of living and cannot, therefore, be considered fair.

Research suggests that there is a plethora of information on the size and shape of the average and plus sized women in South Africa (Winks, 1990; Pandarum, 2009; Muthambi, 2012; Afolayan & Mastamet-Mason, 2013 and Makhanya, 2015). However, there is very little information on petite women‟s body shapes, their body measurements and their shopping behaviour, especially in South Africa, for manufacturing ready-to-wear garments. The purpose of this petite women study was to investigate the shapes and sizes of a sample of petite South African women and develop size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions. This study used a mixed-method; purposive, non-probability sampling method to achieve the objectives of the study. A (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and an Adam‟s® medical scale were used to collect the body measurement data of 200 petite South African women, aged between 20-54 years with an average height range of 157cm, residing in Gauteng (Pretoria and Johannesburg). Other data collection instruments included a demographic questionnaire to collect the subjects‟ demographic information such as, age, height, weight, etc.; and the psychographic questionnaire to gather the petite subjects‟ demographics as well as their perceptions and preferences on currently available ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments. Of the 200 subjects that were initially recruited, based on the petite women‟s body height that ranged from 5‟ 4” (163 cm) and below, the most prevalent body shape profile that emerged from the dataset, was the pear body shape which was evident in 180 of the 3D full body scanned petite women subjects. Therefore, the anthropometric data for these 180 subjects was used in the development of the experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts and as the basis for the fit test garments developed in this study. The collected data was analysed and interpreted in Microsoft Excel and the IBM SPSS Statistics 24 (2016) software package, using principal component analysis (PCA) to produce the experimental size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions necessary for creating prototype shirt and trouser garments. Regression analysis was used to establish the primary and secondary body dimensions for the development of the size charts and for determining the size ranges. The experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts were developed for sizes ranging from size 6/30 to size 26/50. Subsequently, the accuracy of the size charts developed in this study was evaluated by a panel of experts who analysed the fit of the prototype shirt and trouser garments, manufactured using measurements for a size 10/34 size range from the size chart, on a sample of the petite subjects. The fit of these garments was also compared with the fit of garments manufactured using the 3D full body scanned measurements of a size 10/34 petite tailoring mannequin, that is currently commercially available for use in the production of garments for petite women in South Africa. The shirt and trouser prototype garments developed using the size 10/34 upper and lower body dimensions size chart measurements had, overall, a better quality of fit than the garments made to fit the current, commercially available, size 10/34 mannequin. These findings thereby confirmed that the data extracted from the (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and the size charts subsequently developed using the data, has the potential to provide better/improved fit in garments for petite South African women than data hitherto published. From the evidence of this study, it is recommended that the South African garment manufacturing industry needs to revise the current sizing system for petite women to accommodate the body dimensions and shape variations that currently prevail amongst consumers. The South African garment manufacturers and retailers also need to familiarise themselves with the needs, challenges and preferences of the petite consumers‟ target market that purchase ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M.ConSci. (Department of Life and Consumer Science)

Thesis (MBA)--Stellenbosch University, 2007. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Traditional notions of leadership have placed great emphasis on a leaders personal vision and intellectual competency. The smartest person is not always the best captain of the team i.e. the class valedictorian may focus on individual achievements, whereas the team captain focuses on motivating a group to accomplish its collective vision. Such leadership is not the product of one's IQ but one's EQ or emotional intelligence, which is defined as "how leaders handle themselves and their relationships". The rationale of the study is to determine the individual and group emotional intelligence profile of a managers' team in an organisation as well as the trends between these profiles and socio-demographic, psychological and work environmental factors. The association between the emotional intelligence and variables such as demographics (age, gender), management position and managers' experience, the number of people reporting directly to the manager, the term of service with the present organisation, perceptions of job satisfaction, job commitment, job security as well as personal style (feeler, intuitor, thinker, sensor) and conflict style (competing, collaborative, compromise, avoid, accommodate) were explored. Data for the study was collected from twenty-seven participants using a survey methodology. Participants were the managers of the Western Cape Clothing Industry Bargaining Council (CIBC). The instruments used were the BarOn EQ-i, a general questionnaire as well as a qualitative questionnaire for the collection of the data. Data was captured on a Microsoft Office 2000 Excel software programme and analysed with descriptive statistics and univariate analysis of variance. The researcher analysed the data from the BarOn EQ-i and General EQ questionnaire using the general linear model (GLM) version of analysis of variance (ANOVA). A qualitative questionnaire was applied to further substantiate the results. This study proved that female managers have on average a higher EQ score than males. No statistically significant difference were found in the emotional intelligence scores of those in the sample comparing age groups, management positions, managerial experience, number of people reporting to the managers, years of service with the organisation as well as conflict style and personal style. In response to job related questions, the majority of managers reflected that they had total job satisfaction while significant proportions indicated a lack of 'job commitment' and 'job security'. Through the qualitative feedback, it was clear that managers at the CIBC identified a place for EQ in the workplace. This study made recommendations to the organisation applicable to the individual level as well as the organisational level. Recommendations on organisational level included investing in EQ on the basis of making it part of the organisational strategy, to get the right people to orchestrate the process and re-evaluation. Recommendations on an individual level were about a personal development plan and reviewing. This study also made propositions for future research. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Tradisionele leierskap het meer klem gele op 'n leier se persoonlike visie en intellektuele vaardighede. Die mees skrander persoon is nie altyd die beste aanvoerder van die span nie d.w.s. die klas uitblinker mag fokus op individuele sukses, waar die span aanvoerder meer daarop fokus om die groep te motiveer om die gesamentlike visie te bereik. Sulke leierskap is nie die produk van IK nie, maar wel van EQ of Emosionele Intelligensie, wat gedefinieer word as "hoe leiers hulself en hul verhoudings behartig". Die primere doel van hierdie studie is om die individuele en groep EQ profiele van die bestuurderspan in 'n organisasie sowel as die korrelasie tussen die profiele en sosiodemografiese, psigologiese en werksomgewings faktore te bepaal. Die assosiasie tussen EQ en veranderlikes soos demografie (ouderdom en geslag), bestuursposisie en bestuurservaring, die aantal spanlede wat direk aan die bestuurder rapporteer, die termyn van diens by die huidige organisasie, persepsies van werksbevrediging, werksverbintenis, werksgeborgenheid sowel as persoonlike styl (voeler, intuiter, denker, sensor) en konflik styl (kompeterend, samewerkend, middelweg, ontduikend, versoenend) was bestudeer. Data opname vir die studie was van sewe-en-twintig gevallestudies deur 'n opname metodologie. Die gevallestudie was bestuurders van die Weskaap Klere Industrie Bedingingsraad. Die metings instrumente wat gebruik was vir die opname van die data, sluit in die BarOn EQ-i, 'n algemene EQ vraelys sowel as 'n kwalitatiewe vraelys. Data was saamgestel op 'n Microsoft Office 2000 Excel program en ge-analiseer met beskrywende statistieke en ANOVA. Die navorser het die data van die BarOn EQ-i en die algemene EQ vraelys deur die algemene liniere model (GLM) weergawe van ANOVA ge-analiseer. Die resultate was bevestig deur 'n kwalitatiewe vraelys. Daar was bevind dat vroue bestuurders gemiddeld 'n hoer EQ telling as mans het. Geen statistiese noemenswaardige verskille was gevind in die EQ tellings van die bestuurders in die steekproef vergeleke met ouderdomsgroep, bestuursposisie, bestuurservaring, die aantal spanlede wat direk aan die bestuurder rapporteer, die termyn van diens by die huidige organisasie sowel as persoonlikheid en konflik stylle. In reaksie op werksverwante vrae, het die meerderheid van die bestuurders aangedui dat hulle totale werksbevrediging het, terwyl 'n noemenswaardige aantal aangedui het dat hulle, werksverbintenis en werksgeborgenheid ontbeer. Deur die kwalitatiewe terugvoering, is daar indikasies dat emosionele intelligensie wel bepalend kan wees in die werksomgewing. Die studie het voorstelle aan die organisasie aangevoer toepaslik op 'n individuele vlak sowel as 'n organisasie vlak. Voorstelle op 'n organisasie vlak, het ingesluit die belegging in EQ op die basis dat dit deel gemaak word van die organisasie strategie asook om die regte persone aan te stel om die proses te dryf en evalueer. Voorstelle op 'n individuele vlak sluit in 'n persoonlike ontwikkelingsplan en evaluering. Die studie het ook voorstelle vir verdere navorsing gemaak.