Thesis (DSc (Consumer Science)--University of Stellenbosch, 2006. / 326 leaves on CD format, preliminary i-xix pages and numbered pages 1-210. Includes bibliography, list of tables, figures and appendixes. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This research focused on the need of the children’s wear industry in South Africa for sizing systems based on accurate and current body measurement tables developed from the actual measurements of children. The broad objective of this study was to develop standardised measuring methodologies and techniques which would be relevant to the subsequent development of reliable, accurate and comprehensive body measurement tables. These tables could then be implemented as a basis for the development of new sizing systems, as well as new, improved and authentic fit dummy ranges. The literature study served as a point of departure for the planning and execution of the empirical study, focusing on sizing and size designation systems. The study population comprised children representative of three categories, namely age (2 to 14 years), gender (boys and girls) and sector (Black and Non-Black) categories. A convenience sample was selected, representing children from two geographical areas (Western Cape and Gauteng). The empirical study has a three phase structure. The first pilot study aimed at developing standardised measuring equipment, as well as the methodologies and properly recorded guidelines for their implementation. The specific standards according to which subjects were measured and the strict quality control measures implemented to ensure the validity, reliability and accuracy of recorded data, were confirmed during the second pilot study. Based on this, the final study was executed following the guidelines as recorded in the Field Worker Manual. The statistical analysis was done after data capturing during which the data sets were first cleaned up. Secondly, the key measurements for use as a basis for the development of the sizing systems were identified. Based on these, body measurement tables were compiled and age of gender split and growth patterns were analysed for fit dummy prototype development. The new size designation system developed for children’s clothing was successfully implemented as a multi-indicator system, linking height ranges with both age ranges and numerical size indicators. The development of the subsequent new and improved fit dummy prototypes was based on measurements within minimum and maximum values of the body measurements, in order to facilitate the construction of these three-dimensional bodies. It was also possible to develop complete body measurement tables with accurate, and notably irregular, increments between sizes as well as to determine specific growth patterns and separate growth spurts for both boys and girls. This study made new and original as well as more detailed and correct information available concerning the size and shape of the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Using the information contained in the new height based sizing system, retailers have been able to develop a proper set of grade rules for application in product development. The identification and demarcation of important body landmarks facilitated pattern drafting, garment development and fit assessments, resulting in an improved product offering for the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Recommendations regarding further research were formulated, such as comparing the study population categories, namely gender, age and sector. Implications for retailers, inter alia that each retail company could choose how to implement the new height based sizing system and the specific size designation system most suitably for their own consumers and internal systems. The standards set and methodologies implemented in this survey were an improvement on the sizing and fit of children’s wear in the context of South African manufacturers, retailers and consumers. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Hierdie navorsing fokus op die behoefte van die Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklerekleinhandelbedryf aan ‘n sisteem van kleregroottes, gebaseer op akkurate en huidige liggaamsmate-tabelle wat ontwikkel is van die werklike mates van kinders. Die oorkoepelende doelstelling van hierdie studie was om gestandaardiseerde meetmetodologieë en -tegnieke te ontwikkel wat relevant is vir die daarstelling van betroubare, akkurate en omvattende liggaamsmate-tabelle, wat dan gebruik kan word as basis vir die nuwe kleregroottesisteem, sowel as om nuwe, verbeterde en oorspronklike figuurmodelreekse te ontwikkel. Die literatuurstudie het gedien as vertrekpunt vir die beplanning en uitvoering van die empiriese studie met die fokus op kleregroottesisteme en kleregrootteaanwysingsisteme. Die kinders in die studiepopulasie het drie kategorieë verteenwoordig: ouderdom (2 tot 14 jaar), geslag (seuns en meisies) en sektor (Swart en Nie-Swart). ‘n Gerieflikheidsteekproef is uit twee geografiese areas (Wes-Kaap en Gauteng) gekies. Die empiriese studie het ‘n drie-fase-struktuur. Die eerste loodsstudie het ten doel gehad om gestandaardiseerde meettoerusting, meetmetodologieë en behoorlik aangetekende implementeringsriglyne daar te stel. Die spesifieke standaarde waarvolgens die proefpersone gemeet is en die implementering van streng kwaliteitbeheermaatreëls wat geldige, betroubare en akkuraat vasgelegde data verseker, is tydens die tweede loodsstudie bevestig. Die finale studie is gebaseer op en uitgevoer volgens die riglyne soos uiteengesit in die Field Worker Manual. Die statistiese analise is gedoen nadat die data vasgelê en skoongemaak is. Vervolgens is sleutelmates geïdentifiseer wat as basis vir die ontwikkeling van kleregroottesisteme kan dien. Volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle is daarna ontwikkel. Die identifisering van die geslagverdelingsouderdom, sowel as die analisering van groeipatrone vir die ontwikkeling van figuurmodelle, is hierop gebaseer. Die nuwe klere-aanwysingsisteme wat ontwikkel is vir kinderklere is suksesvol geïmplementeer as ‘n veelvoudige aanwysingsisteem wat liggaamslengtereekse met ouderdomsreekse en numeriese grootte-aanwysers koppel. Die nuwe en verbeterde figuurmodel-prototipes wat vervolgens ontwikkel is, is gebaseer op minimum en maksimum waardes van die liggaamsmates ten einde die konstruksie van die driedimensionele figure te vergemaklik. Daarbenewens was dit moontlik om volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle met akkurate en opmerklik ongelyke inkremente tussen groottes daar te stel, sowel as om die spesifieke groeipatrone en afsonderlike groeitoenames vir beide seuns en meises te bepaal. Die studie het nuwe en oorspronklike, sowel as meer gedetailleerde en korrekte inligting ten opsigte van die grootte en vorm van die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker beskikbaar gestel. Met hierdie nuwe kennis van die liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem, is dit nou vir kleinhandelaars moontlik om ‘n volledige stel graderingsreëls daar te stel en in produkontwikkeling toe te pas. Die identifikasie en afbakening van belangrike liggaamsbakens vergemaklik patroon- en klereontwikkeling sowel as die evaluering van die mate waarin dit pas; dit waarborg ‘n verbeterde produk vir die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker. Aanbevelings vir verdere navorsing is gemaak, soos ‘n vergelyking van die studiepopulasiekategorieë, naamlik geslag, ouderdom en sektor. Die implikasies vir kleinhandelaars is onder meer dat elke kleinhandelaar kan kies hoe om hierdie nuwe liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem te implementer en watter die mees geskikte kleregrootte-aanwysingsisteem vir hul verbruikers en interne sisteme sal wees. Die standaarde wat vir hierdie studie gestel is, sowel as die metodologieë wat geïmplementeer is, is ‘n aansienlike verbetering op die groottes en pas van kinderklere binne die konteks van die Suid-Afrikaanse vervaardigers, kleinhandelaars en verbruikers.

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The purpose of the study was to explore specific buying practices of teenage girls and to determine the influence of age and employment on shopping patterns. The buying practices investigated included use of credit, apparel purchase price, purchasing of reduced merchandise, brand name preferences, utilization of store personnel and stores patronized. The data were collected by questionnaires administered to 205 high school girls in grades 9 through 12 enrolled in the two public high schools in Carrollton, Texas. Chi square tests of independence were computed along with descriptive statistics. Buying patterns of Carrollton teenagers were found to be similar to girls in other areas of the United States. A positive correlation was found between shopping patterns and student age and employment.

This study is an assessment of preferences and the perceived satisfaction of clothing for a group of large-sized women shopping in the Dallas metropolitan area. Demographic information was gathered from the respondents to compare the relationship between the clothing preferences and the demographic variables. The participants in this study were sixty large-sized women who shopped in two large-sized specialty stores in Dallas, Texas. The data were collected by use of a personal interview instrument developed by the researcher. This study concludes that large-sized women perceived the selection of large-sized clothing ranging from good to fair with variation in their satisfaction of style, price, fabric, and availability. Large-sized women prefer the following style features: the A-line skirt, the V-neckline, the A-line dress, the bishop sleeve, the solid fabric design, and the color green.

O estudo relaciona temas relevantes e atuais: a economia solidária e a indústria têxtil e de confecção inserida no contexto contemporâneo da moda. As propostas da economia solidária vão ao encontro das questões sociais e ambientais, evidenciadas nos últimos anos em decorrência das revelações sobre a precarização do trabalho e a exploração de recursos naturais na cadeia têxtil e de confecção e, sugere uma nova forma de economia, que visa a geração de renda e trabalho. Por outro lado, apresentase relevante observar a aplicação de atributos relativos à construção da moda brasileira, que fazem referência à elementos da natureza tropical e edênica, considerados nesta pesquisa como referências do Mito Fundador. Como um empreendimento econômico solidário atuante na indústria têxtil e de confecção nacional poderia se desenvolver, a partir da identificação e aplicação de atributos da moda brasileira em sua produção? Este estudo propõe identificar atributos identitários relativos ao Mito Fundador que compõe a moda brasileira e verificar a aplicação de tais atributos em empreendimento econômicos solidários do setor de confecção. Para isso, foram realizados estudos de fundamentação teórica sobre economia solidária no Brasil e sua atuação na indústria têxtil e de confecção e sobre a moda brasileira sob a ótica do Mito Fundador, cujos resultados propiciaram a elaboração de sistematizações necessárias à criação de categorias de análise, respectivamente, sobre os temas de Economia Solidária e atributos identitários relativos ao mito fundador que compõe a moda brasileira contemporânea. Os resultados obtidos nas etapas bibliográfica e estudo de campo revelam que os princípios fundamentais da economia solidária estão presentes e regem as ações e decisões de cada empreendimento, sobretudo a ética, o respeito ao meio ambiente e a valorização do trabalhador, porém, ressalta-se como desafio do trabalho solidário concentrar-se em nichos de mercado ainda iniciantes e sem investimentos governamentais. Nos empreendimentos de economia solidária, a elaboração de peças com técnicas artesanais é um potencial de identidade do fazer manual brasileiro que promove os conceitos de economia solidária na parceria do trabalho cooperado de artesãs. A pesquisa conclui ser recomendável a ampliação de parcerias entre empreendimentos de economia solidária, a divulgação organizada para a transmissão de seus principais valores aos consumidores, o investimento governamental em educação e capacitação de trabalhadores e o processo de produção orientado por projetos concebidos com atuação da área de Design de forma colaborativa / The study relates relevant and current themes: the solidarity economy and the textile and clothing industry inserted in the contemporary context of fashion. Solidarity economys proposals meet the social and environmental issues evidenced in recent years as a result of the revelations about the precariousness of labor and the exploitation of natural resources in the textile and clothing chain, and proposes a new form of economy aimed at the generation of income and work to the excluded population. On the other hand, it is relevant to observe the application of attributes related to the construction of the Brazilian fashion that refer to the elements of tropical and Edenic nature, considered in this research as references of the Founding Myth. How could a solidary economic enterprise operating in the Brazilian textile and clothing industry develop from the identification and application of attributes of Brazilian fashion in its production? This study proposes to identify attributes related to the Founding Myth that composes the Brazilian fashion and verify the application of such attributes in solidarity economic enterprises of the clothing manufacturing sector with the intention of presenting development perspectives of solidarity economy in the textile and clothing industry in the current context of national fashion, as sustainable means of growth of the domestic market and participation in the foreign market. The results obtained in the bibliographic and field studies show that the fundamental principles of solidarity economy are present and govern the actions and decisions of each enterprise, above all, ethics, respect for the environment and the valorization of the worker, however, we emphasize the challenge of this work to be restricted to beginning niche markets and lacking government investments. In the solidarity economy enterprises, the elaboration of garments with artisan techniques is a potential of the Brazilian manual making that promotes the concepts of solidarity economy in the cooperative work of artisans. The research concludes that it is advisable the expansion of partnerships between solidarity economy enterprises, the organized dissemination for the transmission of its main values to consumers, government investment in education and training of workers and the production process oriented by projects conceived in the Design area in a collaborative manner

Submitted by Elba Lopes (elba.lopes@fecap.br) on 2016-09-19T20:01:16Z No. of bitstreams: 2 DOUGLA_ BOD??_DO_NASCIMENTO.pdf: 3995834 bytes, checksum: 315dd4e835c8d114bcd4bbe83d0c4bf8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-19T20:01:16Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 DOUGLA_ BOD??_DO_NASCIMENTO.pdf: 3995834 bytes, checksum: 315dd4e835c8d114bcd4bbe83d0c4bf8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-08-26 / The market growth of the creative economy and the arising of the international accounting standards that comes to clarify the goal of the financial statements that is the disclose of a Company fair value to its stakeholders. The study???s goal is to verify if in the financial statements of a Company inside the creative economy reflects its fair value regarding the records of the intangibles and competitive advantages. The study was made thru the analysis of the financial statement and the financial reports from years 2013 and 2014. In order to reach the goal of the study we performed contents analysis add to documentation analysis, with what try seeking in the contents of the financial statements and financial reports evidences of intangible assets and competitive advantages that are not record in CIA Hering financial statement. Performing all analytical procedures in the report`s contents trying to identify eleven (11) elements listed and elaborated from an theoretical research that eight (8) regard intangible and three (3) regard competitive advantages. It was found that from the eleven elements we seek, only six was found in one of the reports analyzed, therefore, five elements wasn???t find in both reports. The data collected are analyzed and described over this study. / Com o crescimento do mercado da economia criativa e com o advindo das normas internacionais de contabilidade, que veio elucidar que a representa????o do valor justo da companhia ?? o objetivo das demonstra????es financeiras elaboradas aos stakeholders. O objetivo deste estudo ?? verificar se o n??vel de divulga????o dos ativos intang??veis e os diferenciais competitivos nas demonstra????es financeiras de uma empresa da economia criativa refletem o seu valor justo, realizando uma an??lise das Demonstra????es Financeiras e os Relat??rios da Administra????o dos anos de 2013 e 2014. Para atingir este objetivo proposto, realizou-se um estudo baseado na t??cnica de an??lise documental combinado com a an??lise de conte??do, com os quais buscou identificar, no conte??do das demonstra????es financeiras e dos relat??rios da administra????o, evid??ncias de ativos intang??veis e diferenciais competitivos que n??o est??o registrados nas demonstra????es financeiras da CIA Hering. Tendo realizado a an??lise do conte??do desses relat??rios e buscando identificar 11 elementos, listados e elaborados a partir do levantamento te??rico, sendo estes, 8 referentes ?? intang??veis e 3 referentes ?? diferenciais competitivos. Foi constatado que, desses 11 elementos buscados, somente 6 foram encontrados em um dos relat??rios analisados ou em ambos, sendo assim, 5 desses elementos n??o foram encontrados em nenhum destes relat??rios. Os dados coletados s??o analisados e descritos no desenvolvimento deste estudo.

As empresas têxteis e de confecção cada vez mais vem perdendo competitividade nos mercados interno e externo. Elas se encontram em um hiato no mercado global, onde não conseguem competir com os preços praticados pelos países asiáticos nos produtos de menor valor agregado e, dentre os artigos de alto valor agregado, concorrem pelos mesmos mercados com grandes marcas europeias e norte-americanas já consolidadas internacionalmente. Diante deste cenário, considera-se a participação no mercado internacional uma relevante alternativa para a sobrevivência de empresas que enfrentam a competição global, pois competir por mercados mais exigentes capacita as empresas a oferecerem melhores produtos e eleva o nível de inteligência empresarial, ou seja, um ambiente desafiador, característico de um mercado global, contribui para a evolução das empresas. Numa economia globalizada caracterizada pela alta competitividade, qualidade dos produtos e concorrência acirrada, cada vez mais o êxito empresarial depende da capacidade da empresa inovar, principalmente, tecnologicamente, lançando novos produtos no mercado, a um preço menor, com uma qualidade melhor e a uma velocidade maior do que seus concorrentes. A fim de avaliar o quanto as empresas estão preparadas para enfrentarem esta competição e se inserirem cada vez mais no mercado internacional, esta dissertação procurou identificar os fatores formadores de valor presentes nas empresas brasileiras produtoras de têxteis e confeccionados que impactam nos seus desempenhos em inovação para, então, analisar como tal desempenho pode influenciar na competitividade internacional, identificando possíveis gargalos e entraves. Para a obtenção dos resultados foi realizada uma pesquisa de avaliação (survey) com uma amostra de 63 empresas dos segmentos têxteis e de confecção participantes do Programa Texbrasil da Abit, exportadoras e não exportadoras. Para a coleta dos dados, foi elaborado um instrumento de - 7 - pesquisa (questionário estruturado) com base na literatura sobre o tema. Para complementar o trabalho, foi realizada uma etapa qualitativa, a partir de entrevistas semi-estruturadas com especialistas do setor. Os resultados indicam que o desenvolvimento de inovações tem relação positiva com o desempenho da amostra estudada no mercado internacional. As empresas exportadoras estão mais estruturadas em relação à presença de fatores facilitadores para o desenvolvimento de inovações, quando comparadas às empresas não exportadoras. Os testes de regressão linear demonstraram que os aspectos relacionados ao porte das empresas, definição e compartilhamento da estratégia, estabelecimento de parcerias e o lançamento de produtos inovadores são fatores que vem impactando positivamente na participação dessas empresas no mercado internacional. Contudo, elas ainda apresentam práticas incipientes com relação à estrutura de gestão para uma estratégia competitiva baseada em inovações. A baixa qualificação da mão de obra; o pouco conhecimento e uso de regras de propriedade intelectual; a ausência de recursos físicos e financeiros; a baixa atividade de P, D & I, e o pouco conhecimento e uso dos recursos públicos destinados ao apoio a inovação, são considerados entraves para o desenvolvimento de inovações nas empresas estudadas, tanto exportadoras, como não exportadoras, sendo este cenário mais evidenciado nas empresas de menor porte e pertencentes ao elo de confecção. / Brazilian textile and apparel companies are losing more and more competitiveness in domestic and foreign markets. They are on a hiatus in the global market, where they are unable to compete with the prices practiced by Asian countries on lower added value products and, among higher added value items, they are competing for the same markets with major European and North American brands that are already established internationally. In the face of this scenario, participation in the international market is considered to be a relevant alternative for the survival of companies that are facing global competition, since competing for more demanding markets enables companies to offer better products and raise the bar on corporate intelligence; in other words, the challenging environment that is characteristic of a global market contributes to corporate growth. In a globalized economy characterized by high competitiveness, product quality and heated competition, corporate success increasingly depends on a company\'s ability to innovate, especially in technological terms, launching new products in the market faster than its competitors can, at a lower price and with better quality. In order to assess how prepared companies are to take on this competition and mover further and further into the international market, this dissertation sought to identify the value-forming factors found at Brazilian textile and apparel production companies that impact their performance in innovation. Next, an analysis was performed of how this performance could influence international competitiveness, identifying possible bottlenecks and barriers. To obtain results, a survey was applied using a sample of 63 exporting and nonexporting companies in the textile and apparel industries that are members of Abit\'s Texbrasil Program. To collect data, a survey instrument (structured questionnaire) was created based on literature on this topic. To add to this work, a qualitative stage was carried out, based on semi-structured interviews with industry specialists. - 9 - The results indicate that the development of innovations is positively related to the performance in the international market of the sample studied. The exporting companies are more structured in relation to the presence of factors that facilitate development of innovation, as compared to non-exporting companies. Linear regression tests show that aspects related to company size, definition and sharing of strategy, establishment of partnerships, and the launch of innovative products are factors that have had a positive impact on the participation of these companies in the international market. Nevertheless, their practices are still incipient insofar as the management structure is concerned for a competitive strategy based on innovations. The labor force\'s low qualifications; little knowledge and use of intellectual property rules; a lack of physical and financial resources; low R, D & I activities; and little knowledge and use of public resources earmarked for support of innovation are considered to be obstacles to development of innovations at the companies studied, both for exporters and non-exporters, with this scenario being more evident at smaller companies that are part of the apparel chain.

Diss. (sammanfattning) Göteborg : Göteborgs universitet, 2008. / 4 uppsatser.

Previous research has proven that perceived Brand Authenticity functions as a differentiator, which brands can use to stand out in today’s marketplace. However, few studies have investigated whether it is possible for brands to become more profitable by utilizing their authenticity. This thesis therefore investigates the relationship between the two branding concepts Brand Authenticity and Customer-Based Brand Equity (CBBE). An explanatory survey study is made on the Swedish retail clothing industry, which measures the effect of the Brand Authenticity associations Continuity, Originality, Trustworthiness, Genuineness, Heritage, and Symbolism on the CBBE outcomes (1) consumers’ willingness to pay a price premium, (2) recommend a brand, and (3) buy a brand before other brands. The results show that while some Brand Authenticity associations increase the CBBE outcomes, others seem to give no effect and some even to undermine them. If brand managers of authentic brands wish to increase their value sales through price premiums and increase volume sales through increased purchases, they should focus on communicating Symbolism, Originality and Genuineness. If decreased marketing costs through word of mouth is the goal, brand recommendations can be achieved through communicating Trustworthiness as well. However, Continuity and Heritage should be avoided in all brand communication if increased profits is the primarily goal.

Shifting cultures of recycled style: a history of second-hand clothing markets in Montreal draws a cultural history of the evolving circuits through which discards of the fashion system pass. The focus is on three manifestations of the market: the female-dominated charity circuits of the nineteenth-century into which the flow of used goods was redirected following the introduction of mass-produced garments; the revival of cast-off clothing's stylish potential by punk and grunge subcultures in their respective creations of a poverty aesthetic; and the more heterogeneously mainstream market of the late 1980s and 1990s operating within a consumer environment seeped in nostalgia. / The second-hand market is a facet of the fashion system receiving scant attention by the academic community. This study aims to redress the oversight by demonstrating how much of a given society is revealed through the ways in which its members manage the matter of sartorial waste.