O estudo relaciona temas relevantes e atuais: a economia solidária e a indústria têxtil e de confecção inserida no contexto contemporâneo da moda. As propostas da economia solidária vão ao encontro das questões sociais e ambientais, evidenciadas nos últimos anos em decorrência das revelações sobre a precarização do trabalho e a exploração de recursos naturais na cadeia têxtil e de confecção e, sugere uma nova forma de economia, que visa a geração de renda e trabalho. Por outro lado, apresentase relevante observar a aplicação de atributos relativos à construção da moda brasileira, que fazem referência à elementos da natureza tropical e edênica, considerados nesta pesquisa como referências do Mito Fundador. Como um empreendimento econômico solidário atuante na indústria têxtil e de confecção nacional poderia se desenvolver, a partir da identificação e aplicação de atributos da moda brasileira em sua produção? Este estudo propõe identificar atributos identitários relativos ao Mito Fundador que compõe a moda brasileira e verificar a aplicação de tais atributos em empreendimento econômicos solidários do setor de confecção. Para isso, foram realizados estudos de fundamentação teórica sobre economia solidária no Brasil e sua atuação na indústria têxtil e de confecção e sobre a moda brasileira sob a ótica do Mito Fundador, cujos resultados propiciaram a elaboração de sistematizações necessárias à criação de categorias de análise, respectivamente, sobre os temas de Economia Solidária e atributos identitários relativos ao mito fundador que compõe a moda brasileira contemporânea. Os resultados obtidos nas etapas bibliográfica e estudo de campo revelam que os princípios fundamentais da economia solidária estão presentes e regem as ações e decisões de cada empreendimento, sobretudo a ética, o respeito ao meio ambiente e a valorização do trabalhador, porém, ressalta-se como desafio do trabalho solidário concentrar-se em nichos de mercado ainda iniciantes e sem investimentos governamentais. Nos empreendimentos de economia solidária, a elaboração de peças com técnicas artesanais é um potencial de identidade do fazer manual brasileiro que promove os conceitos de economia solidária na parceria do trabalho cooperado de artesãs. A pesquisa conclui ser recomendável a ampliação de parcerias entre empreendimentos de economia solidária, a divulgação organizada para a transmissão de seus principais valores aos consumidores, o investimento governamental em educação e capacitação de trabalhadores e o processo de produção orientado por projetos concebidos com atuação da área de Design de forma colaborativa / The study relates relevant and current themes: the solidarity economy and the textile and clothing industry inserted in the contemporary context of fashion. Solidarity economys proposals meet the social and environmental issues evidenced in recent years as a result of the revelations about the precariousness of labor and the exploitation of natural resources in the textile and clothing chain, and proposes a new form of economy aimed at the generation of income and work to the excluded population. On the other hand, it is relevant to observe the application of attributes related to the construction of the Brazilian fashion that refer to the elements of tropical and Edenic nature, considered in this research as references of the Founding Myth. How could a solidary economic enterprise operating in the Brazilian textile and clothing industry develop from the identification and application of attributes of Brazilian fashion in its production? This study proposes to identify attributes related to the Founding Myth that composes the Brazilian fashion and verify the application of such attributes in solidarity economic enterprises of the clothing manufacturing sector with the intention of presenting development perspectives of solidarity economy in the textile and clothing industry in the current context of national fashion, as sustainable means of growth of the domestic market and participation in the foreign market. The results obtained in the bibliographic and field studies show that the fundamental principles of solidarity economy are present and govern the actions and decisions of each enterprise, above all, ethics, respect for the environment and the valorization of the worker, however, we emphasize the challenge of this work to be restricted to beginning niche markets and lacking government investments. In the solidarity economy enterprises, the elaboration of garments with artisan techniques is a potential of the Brazilian manual making that promotes the concepts of solidarity economy in the cooperative work of artisans. The research concludes that it is advisable the expansion of partnerships between solidarity economy enterprises, the organized dissemination for the transmission of its main values to consumers, government investment in education and training of workers and the production process oriented by projects conceived in the Design area in a collaborative manner

Submitted by Geandra Rodrigues (geandrar@gmail.com) on 2018-04-10T12:29:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2018-04-10T13:18:32Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-04-10T13:18:32Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-05 / Essa dissertação investiga o desenvolvimento da indústria têxtil e de confecção a partir da produção do jeans nas décadas de 1960 a 1980 no Brasil. Tal análise servirá de base para compreender como o advento da cultura juvenil na década de 1960 — e o uso generalizado do jeans, que figurou importante papel como uniforme juvenil, popularizando-se para todas as outras gerações — pode contribuir para a maior profissionalização e desenvolvimento da indústria de confecção nacional. Para além da modernização da indústria têxtil brasileira — que exigia um maquinário adequado e mão de obra mais qualificada —, o advento do jeans como traje para todas as ocasiões encontrou na propaganda de moda um suporte também mais modernizado para a divulgação do material como ícone do comportamento juvenil. Essa imagem da valorização da produção nacional, que antes era destinada quase exclusivamente às classes populares e a partir de uma modelagem que ressalta a sensualidade passa a ser um produto aceito em todas as classes vai evoluir nas décadas de 1970 e 1980 para um modelo não só ligado ao público jovem. com a expansão do uso do jeans para outras faixas etárias. Mas focado no corpo e na sensualidade e, justamente associado à imagem do erotismo, que se tornará característico da produção do jeans tipicamente brasileiro. / This thesis investigates the development of the textile and clothing industry from the production of jeans in the 1960s and 1980s in Brazil. The analysis can be a basis to how the growth of youth culture in the 1960´s — and the general use of jeans, that became the youth uniform clothing, making it´s way to all the next generations — contributed to professionalization and development to the brazilian clothing industry. Beyond the modernization of brazilian textile industry, as it demanded better machines and qualified employees, the growth of jeans use to an all ocasions clothing, found in the fashion marketing a modernized support for making this garment into a youth behavior statement. This image of the valorization of national production, which was previously destined almost exclusively to the popular classes and from a modeling that emphasizes sensuality, becomes an accepted product in all classes. It will evolve in the 1970s and 1980s to a model not only Connected to young audiences. With the expansion of the use of jeans for other age groups. But focused on body and sensuality, and precisely associated with the image of eroticism, which will become characteristic of the production of typically Brazilian jeans.

As the clothing industry is influenced by fierce competition and fast changing trends, firms must handle high stakeholder pressure such as for example, increased environmental and social awareness. According to the UN (2019), the clothing industry is the second biggest polluter to the environment, thus demonstrating the urgent need for CSR initiatives to make significant impact in this industry. In fact, many firms have been innovative, but the benefits from these innovations have yet to be seen.  The main purpose of this study is to understand how innovation and CSR can be combined to offer value for stakeholdersin the clothing industry and evaluate this through the relationship of the Porter hypothesis, stakeholder theory and value co-creation. This thesis adopts a mixed-method approach by responses from interviews and from a self-completing questionnaire. This is supported by the analysis of secondary data reports from firms in the clothing industry and governmental institutions. The results of this study conclude that firms experience two forms of stakeholder pressure which forces them to innovate, supporting the argument for the ‘strong’ form of the Porter hypothesis. Furthermore, it finds that value creation is inextricably linked to stakeholder theory.

The clothing industry can be linked to problematic issues of social equity and environmental sustainability worldwide. This is manifested in the every-day consumer behavior of industrialized societies, which heavily relies on geographically distant labor and resources. Therefore, this thesis looked at the interconnection of social equity and environmental sustainability from a nexus perspective. Nexus approaches are increasingly defining the pathway to sustainable development, yet they typically represent resource-efficient and technological solutions. This form of problematizing water sustainability can keep long-term societal justice problems ‘beneath the surface’, meaning that they are less considered. The WPR approach was used as an analysis tool to understand underlying implications of water sustainability problematizations in the clothing industry. An embedded single case study on the Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI) was conducted, which included and integrated literature review, brand document analysis and semi-structured interviews. The initiative’s goal is to help clothing brands to address water sustainability issues along the supply chain. The results show that water sustainability stands in connection to four overarching themes; environmental issues, economic issues, technological issues and socio-political issues. There is a consensus in the literature and amongst the industry representatives that the problems connected to water sustainability in the clothing industry mainly occur on factory level in producing countries. Additionally, the results show that brands have difficulties to act on their responsibility as strong influencers of the supply chain if there is not a business case. Overall this thesis concludes that the classical nexus approach is not a sufficient solution to water sustainability issues if resources make up the center of analysis and social implications are only considered secondary effects.

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries worldwide with vast impacts on all three pillars of sustainability – ecology, society and economy. Recently there has been increased interest in improving sustainable practices in the clothing industry. These practices look to tackle the negative impacts from emissions, pollution and synthetic or man-madematerials (i.e. those made from fossil fuels). Popular approaches are transparency, supply chain traceability and product certifications. This research aims to evaluate these different approaches with a multi-criteria analysis using a developed evaluation framework and applying the framework at a case study at ASKET AB, a menswear brand from Sweden. Research included seven different certifications common in the clothing industry. Due to a different focus not on a product but rather on a company management level, one of the certifications is excluded in the evaluation process. To ensure the relevance of the framework, the common approaches in sustainability research of the Planetary Boundaries and the Doughnut Economy are combined with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UN SDGs). Thus, the evaluation framework covers an environmental as well as a social dimension, including 18 impact categories in total. The evaluation results in a score for each certification according to the ranking per impact category for each certification. The results showed a clear advantage for certifications covering impact categories from the environmental as well as the social dimension. The results from the evaluation are accompanied by semi-structured interviews with seven experts from within the apparel and sustainability industry. The interviews support most of the findings from the literature research and evaluation. The combination of evaluation and interviews concludes that there is a necessity to take different factors into account before choosing a certain certifications scheme. There is no one fits all approach due to the fact that each organisation adopts its own sustainability practices. Key factors to take into consideration include values and focus areas of the company as well as the rigour of the certification. Consequently, depending on the circumstances, a combination of different certifications and ecolabels might be the best approach. The results are applied to a case study at ASKET AB, a Stockholm-based menswear brand focussing on high-quality and timeless wardrobe essentials. Applicability of different traceability approaches and certifications for ASKET considered different factors including limited monetary and personnel resources of a small- to medium-sized enterprise to a micro-company. Furthermore, a comparison to other approaches of supply chain traceability and transparent communication are taken into account in the assessment. Overall, a different focus depending on the supply chain processes is the most suitable option for ASKET since a full certification of the company, or specific products are not applicable at the current stage of the company. / Textilindustrin är en av världens mest förorenande industrier med stor påverkan på alla tre delar inom hållbarhet – ekologiskt, social och ekonomist. På senare tid har intresset för mer hållbara metoder inom klädindustrin ökat. Målet med dessa metoder är att minska de negativa effekterna från utsläpp, föroreningar samt material från fossila källor. Populära tillvägagångssätt inkluderar transparens, spårbarhet i leverantörskedjan och produktcertifiering. Denna studie utvärderar dessa tillvägagångssätt via en multikriterieanalys utförd med ett framtaget utvärderingsramverk. Studien innehåller sju, för klädindustrin, vanliga certifieringar varav en av dessa exkluderades i utvärderingsprocessen på grund av annat fokus. Ramverkets relevans säkerställs genom att kombinera de vanligaste metoderna i hållbarhetsforskning inom Planetary Boundaries och Doughnut Economy med FN:s mål för hållbarutveckling (FN:s SDGs). Därmed täcker utvärderingsramen såväl miljö- som sociala aspekter innehållandes 18 olika påverkningsbara kategorier. Utvärderingen ger varje certifiering en poäng enligt ranking per påverkningsbar kategori. Certifieringar innehållandes miljö- och sociala aspekter fick bästresultat. Utvärderingsresultaten åtföljdes av semistrukterande intervjuer med sju experter som stöder mestadels av litteraturforskningen och utvärderingen. Utvärderings- och intervjuresultaten visar vikten av att ta olika faktorer i beaktning innan ett certifieringsschema väljs. Dessa inkluderar företagsvärden, fokusområden samt kriteriets strikthet. Det existerar således ingen universell metod och i vissa fall kan en kombination av olika certifieringar och ekomärkningar vara den bästa metoden. Resultaten applicerades på en fallstudie hos ASKET AB, ett Stockholmsbaserat herrklädesmärke med fokus på högkvalitativa och tidlösa ”wardrobe essentials” (garderobsnödvändigheter). Tillämpbarheten av olika spårbarhetsmetoder och certifieringar för ASKET innehöll faktorer så som begränsade monetära- och personalresurser för ett litet till medelstort bolag till ett mikroföretag. I bedömningen beaktas även en jämförelse av andra tillvägagångssätt för spårbarhet i leveranskejdan och kommunikationstransparens. Sammanfattningsvis ärolika fokus beroende på leveranskedjeproncessen mest användbar för ASKET eftersom en fullständig certifiering av företaget eller en specifik produkt i nuläget inte är applicerbar.

The subject of sustainable development is growing in relevance, and never before has research on the subject been as essential. Research shows that the globalization of the clothing industry has a significant impact on both climate and society. Furthermore, consumers today demand sustainably produced products, and they are willing to pay more to support such companies. Despite this, research shows that there is a gap between consumers' expressed demand for sustainable alternatives and their purchasing behavior in favor of sustainable organizations . This gap is often referred to as the 'attitude-behaviour gap' (ABG), which refers to the gap between positive attitudes and consumer behavior. The purpose of this study is to explore the area described as the 'attitude-behaviour gap' between consumers' CSR requirements and purchasing behavior. Specifically, this phenomenon will be examined within the clothing industry with the help of the following questions: "Are Swedish consumers' sustainable attitudes transformed into purchasing behavior within the clothing industry?" if not; "Which factors possibly influence ABG in the Swedish clothing industry?". Method: The study has been based on a qualitative approach where interviews with consumers have been carried out. The interviews were conducted in a semi-structured manner and analyzed thematically based on an analysis model designed from previous research. Results: The study has confirmed that ABG also exists in Swedish consumers. The results show that negative CSR information damages the company's relationship with consumers and in many cases leads to a loss of customers. In contrast, positive CSR information is not as significant. For consumers to switch to sustainable consumption, certain core factors need to be met; first, the consumer needs to have sufficient information and a personal interest in CSR. The consumer's perception of price, the availability of sustainable alternatives and the attributes of the clothes are also central factors. In addition to this, peripheral factors can influence consumers' purchasing behavior. These factors have been explained as company image and credibility, peer pressure, and consumer familiarity. / Ämnet hållbar utveckling växer sig allt större i relevans och aldrig förr har forskning kring ämnet varit så väsentligt. Forskning visar på att globaliseringen av klädindustrin har en betydande påverkan på både klimat och samhälle. Vidare efterfrågar konsumenter idag hållbart producerade produkter och att de är villiga att betala mer för att stödja sådana företag. Trots detta så visar forskning att det finns ett glapp mellan konsumenters uttalade efterfrågan på hållbara alternativ och deras köpbeteende i förmån för hållbara organisationer. Detta gap benämns ofta som ‘attitude-behavior gap’ (ABG) som refererar till mellanrummet mellan de positiva attityderna och konsumenternas beteenden. Syftet med denna studie är att utforska området som beskrivits som ‘attitude-behavior gap’ mellan konsumenters CSR krav och köpbeteende. Specifikt kommer detta fenomenet att granskas inom klädindustrin med hjälp av följande frågeställningar:“Omvandlas svenska konsumenters hållbara attityder till köpbeteenden inom klädindustrin?” om inte; “Vilka faktorer påverkar eventuellt ABG i den svenska klädindustrin?”. Metod: Studien har utgått från ett kvalitativt tillvägagångssätt där intervjuer med konsumenter har genomförts. Intervjuerna genomfördes på ett semistrukturerat sätt och analyserades tematiskt baserat på en analysmodell som utformats från tidigare forskning. Resultat: Studien har bekräftat att ABG existerar även hos svenska konsumenter. Resultaten visar på att negativ CSR-information skadar företagets relation till konsumenterna och leder i många fall till en förlust av kunder. Däremot är inte positiv CSR-information lika betydande. För att konsumenterna ska övergå till hållbar konsumtion behöver vissa kärnfaktorer uppfyllas; dels behöver konsumenten ha tillräckligt med information och en personlig angelägenhet gentemot CSR. Centralt är även konsumentens prisuppfattning, de hållbara alternativens tillgänglighet och klädernas attribut. Utöver detta kan perifera faktorer påverka konsumenternas köpbeteenden. Dessa faktorer har förklarats som företagets image och trovärdighet, grupptryck, samt konsumentens familjaritet.

The implications of introducing shift work and flexible working hours into the UK clothing industry were examined, with special reference to the effects on personnel, plant utilisation and garment costs. A total of 37 garment manufacturing establishments, within 17 companies, were visited; 91 managers (for production and economic data)and 1018 supervisors and operatives, 87% female and 13% male, (for social data) were consulted. The main points arising from the survey are:- 1 . Social (i) The average age and length of service of respondents were respectively 30.4 and 7.1 for women and 40 and 13.9 for men. Nearly three fifths were married and over half of the women had children, most of them at school or pre-school stage. (ii) Over four fifths were committed to some kind of housework; 3 to 5 hours between 17.00 and 24.00 hours were usually spent on this task but about 9% spent more than 5 hours on it. (iii) Over half would be very much bothered by the inability to carry on their individual and/or group social activities. About two thirds would also be concerned by a change in the period of and time for sleep and meal times. Nearly two fifths used public transport for the journey to work. (iv) Only 15% had worked on multiple shifts previous to their present employment and 16% left their previous job because of being on shifts or unsuitable hours. About one fifth worked currently part-time and only 13% wanted to change their existing working system so that they might gain extra convenience and leisure in their working life. (v) The unsolicited personal choice of working systems were mainly shifts (13%), flexible working hours (14%) and part-time day work (30%); working only in school hours appeared to attract the choice of about 40% of the women. (vi) From the points above, it seemed that a high proportion of married female workers, mostly with dependent children and committed to housework, would probably react against shift work. The availability of part-time work together with the normal day work habit acquired would also affect the employees' attitudes towards the acceptance of even flexible working hours. 2. Production (i) The main problems involved with introducing shift work were considered to be sharing of equipment, bonus and piece rate payment and responsibility for quality failures. Dislike of sharing machines by operatives was considered to be a severe problem in sewing section and the extent of this dislike seemed higher in traditional rather than non traditional clothing areas; the operatives' age and length of service appeared to affect their attitudes. The smaller the period of time for each job then the less the problem of sharing payment and responsibility could become. (ii) Introduction of flexible working hours could create the difficulties of shortage and/or excess of supply of work within the production flow with interdependent operations; the extent of the problem could vary with the amount of work in progress and the period of time spent by each operative on the garment and/or its parts. Economic (i) Garment cost elements are material, labour, variable and fixed overheads (survey averages 50.6%, 24.9%, 8% and 16.5%), of which labour and variable overheads would be affected by introducing multiple shifts and only fixed overheads by flexible working hours. There should be a decrease in variable overheads per garment because of sharing a fixed amount of cost between shifts, an increase in labour cost due to shift premium and an increase in fixed overheads because of longer opening hours of the plant on flexible working hours. (ii) The capital employed on plant and machinery, C, could often be divided by the number of shifts so that this could help to increase profitability by a factor of 2 or 3. (iii) General formulae were established, using the most relevant variables, for calculating the profitability and profitability ratios of different working schemes. Generally, if the number of shifts are increased then the profitability of the plant could be very greatly increased. This was well illustrated from the calculated profitability ratios of about 2 and 3 respectively, when industrial survey values were used, for 2 and 3 shift systems replacing a single shift system. Profitability of flexible working hours would, theoretically, be less than that of single shift, but there might be some economic gains, such as reduced rates of labour turnover and absenteeism (which are currently high in the garment industry), arising from the introduction of flexible working hours. / Iranian Ministry of Science and Higher Education and Teheran Polytechnic

Digital technologies can be used to provide consumers in the clothing industry with information in a transparent way that supports sustainable consumer behaviour. Consumers expect more information that can support their sustainable behaviour but have little trust in the information, thus introducing the consumer need for more information transparency in the clothing industry which is the subject of this research study. A qualitative interview study is used to explore consumer informational needs and sustainable consumer behaviour in the clothing industry by purchasing second-hand clothing or adopting a digital clothing sharing service. The theory of planned behaviour was applied in the construction of the study and in the thematic analysis to understand consumer behaviour. Findings show that information transparency can be designed to provide subjective relevance, social -, financial-, and temporal transparency and information accessibility to support sustainable consumer behaviour in the clothing industry because it increases trust, understandability and accessibility. The study contributes with knowledge of additional dimensions for information transparency and particularly to service research by showing that consumers need information transparency to promote a collaborative relation between consumers and companies.

Hållbarhetsfrågan i klädbranschen är fortfarande i en utvecklingsfas och tidigare forskning visar att det finns ett flertal möjliga faktorer som är bidragande till att kunder i dagsläget inte konsumerar på ett sätt som går i linje med deras värderingar.Syftet är att utforska hur kunder kan engageras att främja hållbarhetsaspekten vid klädinköp. För att uppfylla syftet utformas två forskningsfrågor. Metoden är en flerfaldig strategi med ett huvudsakligt kvalitativt fokus. Angreppssättet är abduktivt genom kombination av deduktion och induktion. Studien består av en kvantitativ enkätundersökning följt av kvalitativa semistrukturerade intervjuer. Studien görs ur ett kundperspektiv.Det teoretiska ramverket behandlar möjliga faktorer till varför kunder inte konsumerar i linje med sina värderingar. Faktorerna är informationsbrist, misstro gentemot informationen, informationskomplexitet, högt pris samt begränsat utbud. I analysen av den kvalitativa datan utvecklas en förståelse för varför dessa faktorer kan vara avgörande, och behandlar teorier inom CSR-kommunikation, kundens sociala ansvarstagande samt social normalisering. Slutsatsen är att informationsfaktorerna är avgörande ur ett hållbarhetsperspektiv då bristande information ses leda till förvirring och misstro. Misstron tenderas sedan generaliseras branschöverskridande. Komplexiteten i branschen som helhet gör att informationen måste vara tydlig och heltäckande för att underlätta kunders ansvarstagande. I annat fall tenderar kunder att skjuta ifrån sig ansvaret. / Sustainability in the clothing industry is still in a development phase and previous research shows that there are several possible factors that are contributing to the fact that customers do not consume in a way that is in line with their values. The purpose is to explore how customers may be involved in promoting sustainability in clothing purchases. To do so two research questions is investigated. The method consists of a multiple strategy with a qualitative focus. The approach is abductive through the combination of deduction and induction. The study consists of a quantitative survey followed by qualitative semi-structured interviews. The study is done from a customer perspective. The theoretical framework addresses possible factors to the fact that customers do not consume in line with their values. The factors are lack of information, distrust of the information, information complexity, high cost and limited supply. In the analysis of the qualitative data an understanding of why these factors can be crucial is developed, and addresses theories in CSR communication, customer social responsibility and social normalization.The conclusion is that information factors are crucial in terms of sustainability as inadequate information is seen to lead to confusion and distrust. This distrust tends then to be generalized cross-industry. Due to the complexity in the industry as a whole, the fact that the information is distinct and comprehensive is of great importance to help customers see their own responsibility. Otherwise, customers tend to neglect their responsibility.

No description available.