Bakgrund: Riskhantering handlar om att förebygga att risker uppstår inom ett företag. På grund av den föränderliga miljö som företag befinner sig i krävs en effektiv och integrerad riskhantering, varpå detta blivit särskilt avgörande vid hantering av kriser. Coronapandemin betraktas som en kris som inneburit ett förändrat konsumentbeteende, inte minst inom klädbranschen. På grund av det förändrade konsumentbeteendet har pandemin blivit en av de mest betydande förändringarna i modern marknadsföringshistoria där tidigare långsiktiga strategier blivit begränsade. Hur marknadsföringen fungerade tidigare, innan pandemin, har förändrats för att möta den nya verkligheten. I den alltmer föränderliga miljön som företagen befinner sig i kommer vikten av riskhantering öka i betydelse och det kommer bli mer betydelsefullt att kunna agera snabbt vid förändringar.  Syfte: Syftet med studien är att bidra med kunskap om hur e-handelsföretag inom klädbranschen skapar en riskuppfattning inom strategisk marknadsföring. Vidare undersöks hur e-handelsföretag integrerar riskhantering i deras marknadsföringsstrategier för att underlätta vid eventuella kriser. Det genom att studera hur e-handelsföretag har uppfattat och hanterat coronapandemin. Metod: För att uppfylla vårt informationsbehov bestod studiens empiri av kvalitativ data i som samlades in genom semistrukturerade intervjuer med totalt 16 informanter. Urvalet bestod av personer som hade en beslutsfattande roll på företagets marknadsföringsavdelning. Intervjuerna baserades på en intervjuguide som grundades på studiens teoretiska referensram. Resultat: Informanterna beskrev att det råder en pågående diskussion angående interna och externa dimensioner samt tidsdimensionen för att identifiera eventuella risker. Samtidigt identifierar vi att företagen mer eller mindre arbetar med de fem olika stegen i riskhanteringsprocessen. Slutsatser: Vi kan dra slutsatsen att företagen använder sig av de tre subdimensionerna för att rama in företaget situation och bilda sig en riskuppfattning. Riskhanteringsprocessen används i stor utsträckning av företagen. Dock på ett mer ostrukturerat sätt än det linjära sättet som teorin förespråkar. Det är däremot få företag som genomför en kvalitativ riskanalys vidutvärdering av riskers sannolikhet och konsekvens. / Background: Risk management is about preventing risks from arising within a company. Due to the ever changing environment in which companies find themselves, efficient and integrated risk management has become particularly crucial. The coronavirus pandemic is seen as a crisis that has led to a change in consumer behavior, which affects the clothing industry. The changing consumer behavior has made the pandemic into one of the most significant changes in modern marketing history, where previous long-term marketing strategies have been limited and marketing has changed to meet the new reality. The importance of risk management will increase following the changing environment and acting more quickly in the event of changes will become more important.  Purpose: The purpose of the study is to contribute to knowledge about how e-commercecompanies in the clothing industry create a risk perception in strategic marketing.Furthermore, how a risk management process is integrated into companies' marketingstrategies to facilitate possible crises is also examined. This after studying how companieshave perceived and handled the corona pandemic. Methodology: To fulfill the purpose of the study, our empirical data consisted of qualitative data collected through semi-structured interviews with a total of 16 informants. The sample consisted of people who had a decision-making role in the company's marketing team. The interviews were based on an interview guide which originated from the theoretical frame of reference.   Findings: All the informants described that discussions about the company's internal, external and temporal subdimensions were used to identify possible risks. All companies were using the five steps of the risk management process to a different extent. Conclusion: We can conclude that companies use the three sub-dimensions to frame the company's situation and form a risk perception. The risk management process is widely used by companies. However, it is used in a more unstructured way than the linear process that the theory advocates. It is a few companies that evaluate the probability and consequence of the risk using a qualitative risk analysis

Risker och oförutsägbara händelser är ett högst aktuellt ämne i dagens värld. Beslutsfattare och företag världen över behöver reagera och agera på olika kriser inom ekonomi, miljö, energi och transport eftersom riskerna i sin tur skapar utmaningar och störningar på internationella försörjningskedjor. Klädindustrin, vilket är en av världens mest globaliserade sektorer, är utsatt för risker då försörjningskedjan är uppbyggd på snabba leveranser med långa transportsträckor, vilket är ett resultat av globalt spridda aktörer. Globaliseringen har resulterat i framväxten av internationella försörjningskedjor, vilket antas som en affärsstrategi av företag för att uppnå affärsmässiga fördelar, likväl av företag inom klädindustrin. Inom klädindustrin utkontrakteras vanligen produktionen till geografiskt avlägsna lågkostnadsländer, vilket har gör internationella försörjningskedjor mer komplexa. Detta medför i sin tur osäkerhet i försörjningskedjans processer och en sårbarhet för risker och oförutsägbara händelser. När företag verkar på den internationella marknaden är inte riskhantering av det enskilda företaget tillräckligt då internationella försörjningskedjor är mer riskfyllda än inhemska försörjningskedjor, eftersom dessa kopplar samman ett brett nätverk av aktörer, vilket kräver mer omfattande riskhantering. Tidigare forskning inom riskhanteringsstrategier har främst genomförts på storskaliga varumärkesägande klädföretag medan det finns en betydligt mindre andel forskning avseende hur små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag påverkas av risker och hur små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag arbetar med riskhantering relaterat till företagets samverkan på den internationella försörjningskedjan. Vetenskapligt framställda riskhanteringsstrategier tenderar att vara modeller som inkluderar en rad olika steg som ska utföras linjärt, vilket är argument för att de tenderar att vara teoretiska snarare än praktiska. I linje med detta tenderar vetenskapligt framställda riskhanteringsmetoder att vara beroende av omfattande resurser, vilket gör dessa modeller mindre kompatibla för ett företag av små eller medelstor storlek. Med hänsyn till små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretags sårbarhet för oförutsägbara händelser och externa risker, samt för att täcka ovanstående forskningsgap, är syftet med denna studie att undersöka hur små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag med internationella försörjningskedjor påverkas av risker samt hur dessa företag arbetar för att lindra riskernas påverkan på dess verksamhet. Vi kommer att jämföra relationen mellan empiriska datan med vad tidigare teorier illustrerar som viktiga aspekter för risk och riskhantering. I denna studie har vi genomfört semistrukturerade intervjuer med representanter från sex små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag. Det empiriska materialet transkriberas, kodas samt kategoriseras genom en tematisk analys. Studiens resultat visar att små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag identifierar liknande typer av risker och påverkas i liknande omfattning av risker. Externa risker innefattar oförutsägbara händelser som uppkommer utanför företaget och försörjningskedjans kontoll, medan interna risker uppkommer till följd av försörjningskedjans struktur och hantering, vilket avser inneboende element i företaget och dess försörjningskedja. Vi fann vidare att de risker som identifieras av respondenterna redan inträffat och därmed fått ett utfall, samt haft en direkt inverkan på företaget och dess försörjningskedja. Resultatet visar även att ytterligare en intern risk för små och medelstora varumärkesägande klädföretag finns, begränsade ekonomiska resurser, vilket inte betraktats av tidigare forskning. Resultatet visar dessutom att företagens riskhantering är baserat på hur risken uppstår, där det finns en skillnad mellan kortsiktig riskhantering, vilket främst innefattar kostnadskontroll, och långsiktig riskhantering, vilket innefattar ett proaktivt och förebyggande arbete mot risker.

This thesis investigates the manifestations of circular business models and circular product design strategies in the Swedish clothing industry, using a multiple case study approach that examines five Swedish clothing companies. Guided by the first research question: What are the current circular product design strategies and circular business model strategies for companies operating in the Swedish clothing industry? the findings reveal an emphasis on circular product design strategies compared to circular business models, among the studied clothing companies. Prominent product design strategies encompass timeless and adaptable designs, utilization of high-quality materials, rigorous product testing, and a focus on minimizing components, while permanent collections and standard spare parts are less frequently used. Regarding circular business models, the study reveals an adoption of strategies such as repair, reuse, internal upcycling, and recycling. Conversely, approaches such as clothing rental- and subscription services, secondhand- and repair services as well as collaborations for repair and refurbishment are employed to a lesser extent.  In addition, the study explores the influencing factors that determine the adoption or non-adoption of these circular approaches, guided by a second research question: What are the factors that influence the companies to adopt, or not to adopt circular product design strategies and circular business model strategies? The study reveals that the companies prioritize producing durable goods, but that challenges emerge in achieving a balance between circular objectives and material quality, without compromising either aspect, especially within childrenswear and workwear that has certain requirements. Despite these challenges, the companies both exhibit a commitment to integrating circular practices into their operations, aswell as show a willingness to explore new and innovative circular product design concepts, including increased utilization of mono- and recyclable materials. Another significant challenge lies in the alignment of circular business models with existing organizational practices, which requires substantial organizational transitions. However, permanent collections are found to be a potential facilitator for circularity within the clothing industry, as it allows for comprehensive testing, feedback loops, streamlined supply chains, things of which could enable better opportunities for both circular product designs, and circular business models such as repair- and secondhand services. The study highlights future trends in circular business models, including a focus on repair services, secondhand offerings, and enhanced recycling practices. The research contributes to the understanding of the adoption of circular strategies in the clothing industry and underscores the need for further investigations into the influencing factors at play and the implications across international contexts. / Denna avhandling undersöker strategier för cirkulära affärsmodeller och cirkulär\\ produktdesign inom den svenska klädindustrin, genom att använda en flerfallsstudie som undersöker fem svenska klädföretag. Med utgångspunkt i forskningsfrågan: Vilka är de nuvarande cirkulära produktdesignstrategierna och cirkulära affärsmodellstrategierna för företag som är aktiva inom den svenska klädindustrin? visar resultaten en tyngdpunkt på cirkulära produktdesignstrategier jämfört med cirkulära affärsmodeller, bland de studerade klädföretagen. De främsta produktdesignstrategierna omfattar tidlös och anpassningsbar design, användning av högkvalitativa material, omfattande produkttester och ett fokus på att minimera antalet komponenter, samtidigt som permanenta kollektioner och standardiserade reservdelar användsmer sällan. När det gäller cirkulära affärsmodeller visar studien att strategier som reparation, återanvändning, intern upcycling och återvinning används. Däremot används strategier som uthyrning av kläder och prenumerationstjänster, secondhand- och reparationstjänster samt samarbeten för reparation och renovering i mindre utsträckning.  Vidare undersöker studien de påverkande faktorer som avgör om dessa cirkulära strategier antas eller inte. Detta besvaras med hjälp av en andra forskningsfråga: Vilka är de faktorer som påverkar företagen att anta, eller inte anta, cirkulära produktdesignstrategier och cirkulära affärsmodellstrategier? Studien visar att företagen prioriterar att producera hållbara produkter, men att det finns utmaningar med att uppnå en balans mellan cirkulära mål och materialkvalitet, utan att kompromissa med någon av aspekterna. Detta gäller i synnerhet barnkläder och arbetskläder som har särskilda krav. Trots dessa utmaningar visar alla studiens företag både ett engagemang för att integrera cirkulära metoder i sin verksamhet och en vilja att utforska nya och innovativa cirkulära produktdesignkoncept, inklusive ökat utnyttjande av mono- och återvinningsbara material. En annan stor utmaning ligger i att anpassa cirkulära affärsmodeller till befintliga organisatoriska rutiner, vilket kräver omfattande organisatoriska förändringar. Permanenta kollektioner har dock visat sig vara en potentiell facilitator för cirkularitet inom klädindustrin. Detta mot bakgrund av att permanenta kollektioner möjliggör omfattande tester, feedbackloopar och effektiviserade leveranskedjor, vilket kan ge bättre möjligheter för både cirkulär produktdesign, och cirkulära affärsmodeller som reparations- och secondhand-tjänster. Studien visar att framtida trender inom cirkulära affärsmodeller inkluderar ett fokus på reparationstjänster, secondhand-erbjudanden och förbättrad återvinning. Dessutom bidrar studien till en förståelse av hur cirkulära strategier inom klädindustrin kan tillämpas. Slutligen understryker studien att framtida studier bör utvärdera samtliga faktorer som påverkar tillämpningen av cirkulära strategier i klädindustrin, samt hur dessa kan variera ii nternationella sammanhang.

Die vorliegende Arbeit geht der Forschungsfrage nach: „Wie befördern Marketingmaßnahmen nachhaltigkeitsorientierte Bekleidungsunternehmen, dass Kund:innen sich selbstbegrenzen im Konsum?“, da der Konsum und seine Begrenzung zu den drängendsten Themen unserer Zeit gehören. Es wird untersucht, wie eine breite Verhaltensveränderung hin zu nachhaltigeren Konsummustern möglich ist und welche Verantwortung Unternehmen (dafür) haben. Anhand der Konzepte Ethischer Kompass, Drei-Ebenen-Paradigma abstrakter Ordnung und Marketingmix kann diese wirtschaftsethische Unternehmensverantwortung realwirtschaftlich umgesetzt werden. Auch Bekleidungskonsument:innen werden untersucht, was sie (normativ) wollen und welche Wirklichkeiten sie von ihren Zielen abhalten. Parallel werden die Erkenntnisse für Verhalten in drei ethisch gehaltvolle Klassen von Handlungsbedingungen eingeordnet, die Verhalten nachvollziehbar machen. Mittels einer Fallstudienanalyse kann dargestellt werden, dass das grundlegende Nichtschädigungsgebot nicht nur in Marketingmaßnahmen umgesetzt wird, sondern auch als Unternehmensziel definiert wird. Dies reicht jedoch noch nicht aus, dass sich Bekleidungskonsument:innen dauerhaft selbstbegrenzen können, obwohl sie es wollen.

The topic of information transparency is becoming increasingly important in the online B2C (business-to-consumer) clothing industry. While both information transparency and perceived brand credibility are already known to be important for the firm, research shows that it is challenging to understand how information transparency influences brand credibility. It is because of the rapid growth of the online clothing and fashion industry that the significance of this research is rooted. Therefore, this paper set out to explore the influence of information transparency on perceived brand credibility in the online B2C clothing industry by performing a qualitative analysis. Furthermore, this research takes inspiration from existing literature that was conducted on information transparency. This research applies the same dimensions of information transparency from the existing literature by Zhou, et al., (2018) – namely product, vendor, and transaction transparency –  to act as a framework for this research and understand how they act to influence the perceptions of brand credibility. Three brand credibility dimensions put forth by Keller (2013) – perceived expertise, trustworthiness, and likeability – were used to understand what brand credibility entails. It was found that product transparency and vendor transparency influence perceptions of brand credibility through the dimensions of trustworthiness and likeability, while transaction transparency influences perceptions of brand credibility through all dimensions of brand credibility as specified by Keller, (2013).

Bakgrund: Klädbranschen har genomgått en snabb utveckling till massproduktion, vilket resulterat i en ökad klädkonsumtion. Idag handlar den genomsnittlige svensken 15 kilo kläder per år, något som lett till överkonsumtion och en minskning av användningstiden för varje plagg. Den snabba tillgången på billiga kläder gör det svårt för konsumenter att göra informerade val, vilket ökar betydelsen av influencer-marknadsföring och digitala kanaler för köpbeslut. Generation Z, som spenderar mycket tid online, påverkas särskilt av sociala medier i sina köpbeslut. Med digitaliseringens framsteg har digital nudging blivit vanligare, särskilt för att nå en generation som är starkt närvarande på digitala plattformar. Trots nudgingens syfte att främja positiva beteenden, finns det risker för negativa konsekvenser såsom överkonsumtion och miljöförstöring om det används felaktigt. Därför är det viktigt att förstå hur digital nudging påverkar beslutsprocessen hos generation Z. Forskningsfråga: Är generation Z medvetna om digital nudging och i så fall, hur upplever generation Z att medvetenheten kring digital nudging påverkar deras beslutsprocess om hållbar klädkonsumtion? Syfte: Syftet med studien är att undersöka huruvida generation Z är medvetna om digital nudging samt att beskriva hur generation Z upplever att deras medvetenhet om digital nudging påverkar deras beslutsprocess om hållbar klädkonsumtion. Genom att analysera unga konsumenters reflektion kring deras erfarenheter av nudging i detta sammanhang syftar studien till att bidra med insikter om hur nudging kan forma och vägleda unga konsumenters köpbeslut inom klädindustrin. Metod: I studien har en deduktiv ansats använts för att utforma semistrukturerade intervjufrågor till studiens fokusgrupper. Studiens deltagare valdes med hjälp av ett snöbollsurval och innefattar individer från generation Z. Vidare användes en tematisk analys för att identifiera mönster och teman i resultaten. Slutsats: Studiens resultat visar att trots att generation Z är medveten om digital nudging och dess inflytande på deras köp av kläder, tenderar de ändå att prioritera andra faktorer som pris och bekvämlighet framför hållbarhet. För att främja en mer hållbar klädkonsumtion föreslår de att företag kan använda digital nudging för att framhäva miljövänliga alternativ och erbjuda bättre kampanjer för hållbara kläder. Sammantaget indikerar studien att även om generation Z är medveten om digital nudging, leder det inte alltid till ökad benägenhet att göra hållbara konsumtionsval. / Background: The clothing industry has undergone a rapid development towards mass production, which has resulted in increased clothing consumption. Today, the average Swede buys 15 kilos of clothes per year, something that has led to overconsumption and a reduction in the usage time for each garment. The rapid availability of cheap clothing makes it difficult for consumers to make informed choices, increasing the importance of influencer marketing and digital channels for purchasing decisions. Generation Z, who spend a lot of time online, are particularly influenced by social media in their purchasing decisions. With the advancement of digitization, digital nudging has become more common, especially to reach a generation that is heavily present on digital platforms. Despite nudging's purpose of promoting positive behaviors, there are risks of negative consequences such as overconsumption and environmental destruction if used incorrectly. Therefore, it is important to understand how digital nudging affects the decision-making process of Generation Z. Research question: Is generation Z aware of digital nudging and if so, how does generation Z feel that the awareness of digital nudging affects their decision-making process regarding sustainable clothing consumption? Purpose: The purpose of the study is to investigate whether generation Z is aware of digital nudging and to describe how generation Z feels that their awareness of digital nudging affects their decision-making process regarding sustainable clothing consumption. By analysing young consumers' reflection on their experiences of nudging in this context, the study aims to contribute with insights into how nudging can shape and guide young consumers' purchase decisions within the clothing industry. Method: In the study, a deductive approach has been used to design semi-structured interview questions for the study's focus groups. The study's participants were selected using a snowball sample and include individuals from generation Z. Furthermore, a thematic analysis was used to identify patterns and themes in the results. Conclusion: The study's findings show that despite being aware of digital nudging and its influence on their clothing purchases, Generation Z still tends to prioritize other factors such as price and convenience over sustainability. To promote more sustainable clothing consumption, they suggest that companies can use digital nudging to highlight environmentally friendly options and offer better campaigns for sustainable clothing. Overall, the study indicates that although Generation Z is aware of digital nudging, it does not always lead to an increased propensity to make sustainable consumption choices.

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life & Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

Implementation av ett CSR-engagemang innebär stora ekonomiska påfrestelser på ett företag vilket kan visa sig vara problematiskt för företag då konsumenterna uppger att de är villiga att överväga CSR men när det gäller verklig konsumtion är det få konsumenter som tar hänsyn till CSR. Syftet med denna uppsats är därför att kartlägga åsikterna om företags CSR inom mejeribranschen och klädbranschen hos konsumenter i Stockholm län. Frågeställningarna för denna uppsats är “anser svenska konsumenter att det är viktigt med CSR inom mejeribranschen respektive klädbranschen??” samt “vilka CSR-faktorer anser svenska konsumenter påverkar deras köp mest inom mejeribranschen respektive klädbranschen?”. Arbetet i studien är grundat i en kvantitativ undersökning där 307 respondenter deltog i en enkätundersökning. För att studera resultatet av enkätundersökningen har arbetet utgått ifrån teorier inom CSR och konsumentbeteende. Utifrån resultatet kan man konstatera att respondenterna anser att det är viktigare med CSR inom mejeribranschen än inom klädbranschen samt att de faktorer som respondenterna anser påverkar deras köp mest är smak eller utseende, beroende på branschen. En slutsats som kan dras utifrån resultatet är att CSR är viktigare för kvinnor än för män inom respektive bransch, samt att konsumenterna inte anser att CSR faktorer är det som har störst påverkan på deras köp inom respektive bransch. Slutligen kan slutsatsen om att respondenterna anser att CSR faktorer har större påverkan på deras köp inom mejeribranschen än i klädbranschen, bortsett från arbetsförhållanden som anses påverka mer inom klädbranschen. / Implementation of a CSR engagement involves major financial strain on a company, which may prove problematic for companies, as consumers state that they are willing to consider CSR, but when it comes to real consumption, few consumers take CSR into consideration. The purpose of this paper is therefore to map out the opinions about the corporate social responsibility regarding the industries of both clothing and dairy products for the consumers in the Stockholm area. The research questions that were examined was “do Swedish consumers consider CSR to be important in the dairy industry and the clothing industry?” and "which CSR factors do Swedish consumers consider to affect their purchases most in the dairy industry and the clothing industry?". The research has a quantitative base with a survey with 307 respondents. In order to study the result of the survey the use of different theories has been implemented for example CSR, Green Marketing and Consumer Behaviour. The result shows that the respondents think that CSR is more important in the dairy industry than the clothing industry, as well as the most important factor in their purchase is the taste or looks of the product, depending on the industry. Another conclusion is that CSR is more important for women than for men in both industries. Furthermore, consumers don't think that CSR factors is what has the greatest impact on their purchases within each industry. Lastly is that the respondents consider CSR factors to have a greater impact on their purchases in the dairy industry than in the clothing industry, apart from working conditions which are considered to affect more in the clothing industry.

Much of the effort that goes into a purchasing decision occurs at the stage where a choice has to be made from the available alternative clothing products (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009:392). In this phase of the decision making process, consumers’ perceptions of the clothing item they anticipate to purchase includes evaluation of the clothing and the application of specific evaluative criteria in order to assess the suitability of the clothing item (Saricam, Kalaoglu, Ozdygu & Urun, & 2012:2). Evaluative criteria are the specifications or standards that consumers use when comparing and assessing alternatives (Forney, Park & Brandon, 2005:158). Because consumer needs vary not only by the product they want to purchase but also in terms of information (Forney et al., 2005:158), identifying the evaluative criteria that consumers use in the clothing purchasing decision-making process may provide an insight into preferences relative to specific products, such as clothing. While several studies have shown that the purchasing decision can be influenced by individual differences as well as environmental influences, it is no doubt that the investigation of each of these variables provides important clues to understanding consumer purchase decision broadly, but are limited in some parts in their explanations when it comes to clothing purchasing decision. Literature has highlighted the significance of body shape on clothing preferences because of the inherent relationship between the clothing product and the body. The difference in body shape often determines how clothing will drape on a figure, how comfortable the garment feels and ultimately how the clothing product will be evaluated by the consumer. Moreover, personal values, which are defined as the desired end-states have been shown to be one of the most powerful explanations of, and influence on the way consumers are likely to behave in a specific situation, such as the purchasing of new clothing product, the process that includes evaluation, choosing among the alternatives and finally the purchasing decision (Vincent 2014:119; Kim et al. 2002:481; Laverie, Klein & Klein, 1993:2). Additionally, while in the process of evaluating various clothing attributes for the suitability of the clothing product in terms of body shape and personal values, female consumers may experience either positive or negative emotions (Zeelenberg et al., 2008:18), depending on how the clothing is assessed. Most theories of emotional influences on decision making take the valence-based approach (Lerner & Keltener, 2000:473), focusing on the effects of positive versus negative emotional states. However, Lerner and Keltener (2000:473), have suggested that emotion specific approach, in particular the Appraisal-Tendency Framework (ATF) model is more effective to understand and predict the influence of specific emotions on decision making and behaviour. Consumers’ choice of the clothes based on the evaluative criteria during the decision making process is regarded as a form of consumer input to the clothing manufacturing and design (May-Plumee & Little, 2006:62). Since these underlying factors are regarded as important for understanding the rationale behind consumer clothing purchasing decision and behaviour, a thorough investigation of such factors on how they impact clothing evaluative criteria is greatly necessary. This may help and guide the clothing manufacturers and retailer on how to design and produce clothing products that are most relevant for the needs and preferences of South African female consumers. The study, therefore, aimed to determine the influence of body shape and personal values on women’s preferences for and use of intrinsic evaluative criteria (styling/design, colour/pattern, appearance, appropriateness/acceptance, fit/sizing, comfort and fibre content/material) in the purchasing of casual blouse/top, trouser/skirt and dress. Information on the relevant importance of various clothing product attributes in the consumers’ mind may provide clothing manufacturers and designers with the basis for effective new clothing product development and marketing strategies. Furthermore, considering that emotions are involved in clothing purchasing decision, the study also focused on understanding the influence of emotions on clothing purchasing decision and subsequent behaviour. This study reflected the postpositive philosophical worldview which is typically associated with quantitative approach. In this case, the study assumed quantitative research design and methods and is regarded as exploratory in nature. Using purposeful, convenient and snowball techniques, the sample was solicited in Gauteng, Johannesburg, South Africa. A total of 316 women aged between 18 and 66 plus years old took part in the study. A survey using a group administered questionnaire was used to collect primary data from the respondents. The group administered questionnaire included demographic information of the participants, self-reported perceived body shape measure, personal values measure, evaluative measure and emotions measure. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze demographic information, as well as on overall data before inferential statistics were performed. Inferential statistics such as the z-test was applied to establish the significant evaluative criteria and to test the proportions of the selected emotions. Chi-Square test of independence was used to determine the association between body shape evaluative criteria investigated, while nonlinear canonical correlation analysis (OVERALS) was performed to establish the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria and lastly, discriminant analysis was used determine purchasing behaviour. The analysis established that fit/sizing and comfort are the most important evaluative criteria that women consider in the purchasing of casual clothing categories studied. Respondents, also agreed that styling/design was the determinant evaluative criteria when purchasing a casual dress, while fit/sizing was the determinant evaluative criteria in the purchasing of a casual blouse/top and trouser/skirt. The results further showed that respondents in this study who perceive themselves to be diamond shaped, think colour/pattern is very important particularly when purchasing a casual blouse/top. However, when purchasing a trouser/skirt, the results reflected that the oval body shaped respondents think styling/design is very important, while respondents who perceive themselves to be rectangular body shaped, consider comfort when purchasing a casual dress. With regards to the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria, the study found that when purchasing a casual blouse, respondents consider the appearance for the achievement of warm relationship with others, excitement and confidence. The results also indicated that through fit/size of a blouse/top, female consumers strongly aspired for self-respect. The results further showed that through the styling/design of a blouse/top, female consumers in this study want to achieve self-fulfillment, while a sense of accomplishment is influenced by the comfort of a casual blouse/top. On the other hand it was also revealed that appropriateness/acceptability of a casual blouse/top seemed to influence fun and enjoyment as well as sense of belonging. In the purchasing of a casual trouser/skirt, the results clearly showed that in order to achieve a warm relationship with others, female consumers strongly considered the fibre content/material and colour/pattern of trouser/skirt. The results also suggested that consumer considered the appearance of a trouser/skirt for the achievement of sense of belonging and self-fulfillment, while the styling/design of a trouser/skirt was somewhat considered for attainment of excitement. Through the fit/sizing of a casual trouser/skirt, it was shown that female consumers strongly aspired to achieve self-respect, confidence as well as fun and enjoyment. The results further highlighted that respondents considered appropriateness/acceptability of a casual trouser to somewhat influence being well-respected, while comfort of a casual trouser somewhat influenced a sense of accomplishment. In the purchasing of a casual dress, the results indicated that in order to achieve excitement and a warm relationship with others, female consumers in this study considered the appearance. The results further suggested that through the appearance of dress respondents somewhat also aspired for a sense of belonging. On the other hand, the results clearly revealed that respondents will consider fibre content/material, styling/design, fit/sizing and colour of casual dress in order to achieve self-respect, self-fulfillment, confidence, being well-respected and a sense of accomplishment. Lastly the results demonstrated that the best behaviour that drives the emotion “disgust” is “I walk away”. On the other had the best behaviour that drives the emotion “sadness” is “I spend more time shopping around”. The results were fully consistent and gave support to the emotions specific hypothesis (ATF) which postulates that different emotions of the same valence for instance, “disgust” and “sad”, both being negative, can exert opposing influences on decision making and behavior. However, concerning the positive specific emotions, it emerged that there were no behaviour differences between the emotions “happiness” and “contentment”, probably, suggesting unpredictable behaviour. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing designers and retailers should have a knowledge of the attributes that are preferred by female consumers of various body shape. It is also recommended that clothing manufacturers and retailers should endeavor to understand the value systems of their target. This study has contributed to the body of knowledge of understanding the role that body shape, personal values and emotions play in the clothing purchasing decision and behaviour. / Life and Consumer Sciences / Ph. D. (Consumer Science)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)