A vitamina C e a vitamina E são antioxidantes naturais encontrados em diversas frutas e verduras frescas, em óleos vegetais e germem de trigo. Produtos cosméticos, contendo essas vitaminas em forma de ésteres, têm sido desenvolvidos e disponibilizados comercialmente, ressaltando-se que o aspecto natural dessas induz seu uso em cremes e loções. Por isso, torna-se necessário a validação de metodologias analíticas para identificar essas vitaminas em preparações cosméticas, tanto para o controle da qualidade do produto como para a segurança do consumidor. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo a validação das metodologias analíticas para determinação e quantificação do derivado do ácido ascórbico, tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila e o princípio ativo acetato de tocoferila que estão associados nas formulações cosméticas. A técnica de espectrofotometria no ultravioleta (UV) e a análise térmica foram empregadas na caracterização desses princípios ativos. Para a quantificação dos ativos foram desenvolvidas metodologias analíticas empregando as seguintes técnicas: espectrofotometria derivada no UV; eletroforese capilar e cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). A metodologia desenvolvida por espectrofotometria derivada no UV não demonstrou ser aplicável devido à interferência dos excipientes presentes na formulação. Para determinação dos ativos tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila e acetato de tocoferila, foi validado um método por CLAE em fase reversa, empregando-se a coluna Synergi Hidro® C18, fase móvel metanol:2-propanol (25:75), vazão 1,0 mL/min e detecçao UV à 222 nm. As amostras foram extraídas sem grande complexidade e os ativos puderam ser determinados em 3 min e 6 min, para o acetato de tocoferila e o tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila respectivamente. O desenvolvimento da metodologia por eletroforese capilar utilizando-se a técnica de MEEKC (Cromatografia Eletrocinética em Microemulsão) usando a microemulsão óleo-aquosa não demonstrou ser adequada para determinação dos princípios ativos em estudo, sendo que o trabalho terá como perspectivas a tentativa da MEEKC usando a microemulsão aquosa-oleosa. / Vitamin C and vitamin E are natural antioxidants found in many fruits and fresh vegetables, vegetable oils and seed wheat. Cosmetics containing these vitamins in the form of esters have been developed and made available commercially, highlighting the fact that the \"natural\" induces its use in these creams and lotions. Than, it is necessary the validation of analytical methodologies to identify these vitamins in cosmetic preparations, both for the control of product quality and for the safety of consumers. The present work aims the validation of analytical methodologies for determining and quantifying the derivative of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and the active tocopheryl acetate that are associated in cosmetic formulations. The techniques of UV spectrophotometry and the thermal analysis were used in the characterization of these active ingredients. For the quantification of the actives, analytical methodologies were developed using the following techniques: the UV first-derivative spectrophotometry (UVD), high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and capillary electrophoresis (CE). The methodology developed by UV first-derivative spectrophotometry do not showed to be applicable due to the interference of excipients in the formulation. To determine the actives ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, a method has been validated by reverse-phase HPLC, using the column Synergi Hidro ® C18, mobile phase methanol :2-propanol (25:75), flow rate 1.0 mL / min and UV detection 222 nm. The samples were extracted without great complexity and the actives could be determined in 3 min and 6 min, for the tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate respectively. The development of methodology for capillary electrophoresis using the technique of MEEKC (Microemulsion Electrokinetic Chromatography) using the oil-in-water (o/w) microemulsion do not showed to be suitable for determination of active ingredients in the study, and that the work will attempt the prospects of using MEEKC the water-in-oil (w/o) microemulsion.

Neste trabalho, enzimas álcool-desidrogenases provenientes de fungos marinhos e a lipase imobilizada de Candida antarctica foram utilizadas para produção de compostos de interesse sintético e biológico. No capítulo 1, enzimas álcool-desidrogenases de fungos isolados da alga marinha Bostrychia radicans foram empregadas em reações de redução de cetonas fluoradas 1-5. Os fungos identificados como Botryosphaeria sp. CBMAI 1197, Eutypella sp. CBMAI 1196, Hidropisphaera sp. CBMAI 1194 e Xylaria sp. CBMAI 119 atuaram como biocatalisadores nestas reações levando à produção de álcoois com elevada pureza enantiomérica. O fungo Botryosphaeria sp. CBMAI 1197 destacou-se frente aos demais microrganismos, produzindo os álcoois (S)-2,2,2-trifluoro-1-feniletanol (1a) e (R)-1-(2,4,5-trifluorofenil)etanol (3a) com excelentes conversões (100% e 97%) e excessos enantioméricos (ee >99%). Este fungo também apresentou enzimas álcool-desidrogenases ativas frente a cetonas dicarboniladas 4-5, produzindo os álcoois 4,4,4-trifluoro-1-fenil-1,3-butanodiol (4a) e 4,4,4-trifluoro-1-(2-naftalenil)-1,3-butanodiol (5a) com 100% de conversão em ambos os casos e com purezas enantioméricas respectivas a 99% e 97%. Este foi o primeiro estudo realizado no Brasil com fluorocetonas dicarboniladas e com os fungos isolados da alga marinha Bostrychia radicans. No capítulo 2, a lipase comercial de Candida antarctica foi o biocatalisador empregado em reações de aminólise entre os ésteres linoleato de etila (1) e salicilato de etila (3), a amina graxa N-dodecilamina (2) e os aminoálcoois (4-9). A amina graxa N-dodecilamina (2) também foi utilizada em reações com o linoleato de etila (1), onde a lipase de Candida antarctica produziu a respectiva amida graxa 10 com rendimentos superiores a 95%. Os aminoálcoois foram selecionados para reações com o salicilato de etila (3), onde a lipase exibiu quimiosseletividade pelo grupo amino, produzindo predominantemente amidas fenólicas (12-19) com rendimentos entre 23-68%. A enzima CALB apresentou quimiosseletividade reduzida na reação com o 5-aminopentanol (6) onde os produtos amida 14 e éster 15 foram obtidos com rendimentos de 44 e 33%, respectivamente. O produto 2-hidroxi-N-(2-hidroxipropil)benzamida (19) foi obtido com rendimento superior a 90% a partir da reação catalisada pela lipase de Candida antarctica. Este produto foi selecionado como intermediário para a síntese de uma molécula hidrofóbica 21 que apresenta o éster oleato de etila em sua constituição. O produto 21 foi obtido com 75% de rendimento. As amidas fenólicas 12-21 produzidas neste trabalho são derivadas do ácido linoleico (ômega 6) e do ácido salicílico, os quais apresentam propriedades emolientes e antioxidantes. Estes compostos são interessantes para a formulação de produtos cosméticos de aplicação cutânea. Neste processo biotecnológico as reações foram conduzidas na ausência de solventes orgânicos, evitando o tratamento de solventes voláteis e a formação de subprodutos. Os compostos foram analisados por Cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência e caracterizados por RMN (1H, 13C), EMAR e IV. A aplicação de reações de biocatálise seja através de células microbianas ou de enzimas isoladas foram muito promissoras na síntese de compostos orgânicos de interesse como álcoois enantiomericamente puros ou amidas graxas. / In this work, alcohol dehydrogenase (ADHs) enzymes from marine fungi and immobilized lipase from Candida antarctica were employed for the production of compounds of biological and synthetic interest. In chapter 1, ADHs of fungi isolated from the marine alga Bostrychia radicans were used in reduction reactions of fluorinated ketones 1-5. The fungi identified as Botryosphaeria sp. CBMAI 1197, Eutypella sp. CBMAI 1196, Hidropisphaera sp. CBMAI 1194 and Xylaria sp. CBMAI 119 acted as biocatalysts in these reactions leading to production of alcohols with high enantiomeric purity. The fungus Botryosphaeria sp. CBMAI 1197 presented highlighted compared to other microorganisms producing the alcohols (S)-2,2,2-trifluoro-1-phenylethanol (1a) and (R) -1 - (2,4,5-trifluorophenyl) ethanol (3a) with excellent conversions (100% and 97%) and enantiomeric excesses (ee > 99%). This fungus also exhibited ADHs enzymes active with dicarbonylateds ketones, leading to the production of the alcohols 4,4,4-trifluoro-1-phenylbutane-1,3-diol (4a) and 4,4,4-trifluoro-1-(naphthalen-2-yl)butane-1,3-diol -1,3-butanediol (5a) with conversions of 100% in both cases and enantiomeric excess of 99%-97%, respectively. This was the first study conducted with dicarbonilated fluoroketones 4-5 and with fungi isolated from the marine alga Bostrychia radicans in Brazil. In chapter 2, immobilized lipase from Candida antarctica was used as biocatalyst in the aminolysis reaction between esters of ethyl linoleate (1) and ethyl salicylate (3), the fatty amine N-dodecylamine (2) and the aminoalcohols (4-8). Six aminoalcohols were selected for reactions with ethyl salicylate (3), where the lipase exhibited chemoselectivity by the amino groups, producing predominantly phenolic amides in yields of 23-63%. The CALB exhibited um reduction in chemoselectivity in the reaction with 5-aminopentanol (6) where the amide 14 and ester 15 products were obtained with 44% and 33% yields. The product 2-hydroxy-N-(2-hydroxypropyl) benzamide (19) was obtained in yield greater than 90% from the reaction catalyzed by lipase from Candida antarctica. This product was selected as reagente for the synthesis of a hydrophobic molecule 21 presenting ester ethyl oleate in its constitution. The product 21 was obtained in 75% yield. The phenolic amides 12-21 produced in this work are derived from linoleic acid (omega 6) and salicylic acid, which presents emollient and antioxidants properties. These compounds are interesting for the formulation of cosmetic products for skin application. In this biotechnological process, the reactions were carried out under solvent-free conditions and vacum, avoiding the treatment of volatile solvents and by-product formation. The compounds were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography and characterized by NMR (1H, 13C), IR and HRMS. Applying biocatalysis reactions, either through microbial cells or isolated enzymes were promising for the synthesis of organic compounds such as enantiomerically pure alcohols and fatty phenolic amides.

A análise sensorial é uma metodologia científica utilizada para mensurar, avaliar e interpretar reações relacionadas às características de produtos tais como são percebidas através dos sentidos, respondendo à bem mais que simplesmente à preferência por algum produto em detrimento de outros. Métodos científicos específicos têm sido desenvolvidos para medir ou estimar objetivamente, com precisão e reprodutibilidade, as respostas humanas aos estímulos a que são submetidos. Os testes descritivos, que compõem parte da análise sensorial, exigem controle cuidadoso das possíveis variáveis capazes de interferir no resultado, tais como ambiente do teste, armazenamento das amostras, condições da pele dos painelistas, seleção e treinamento de atributos do produto a serem avaliados. A filosofia do treinamento é proporcionar uma mesma experiência sensorial aos painelistas através do uso de uma ampla variedade de amostras de referências, conceitos, terminologias, protocolos e escalas, o que é essencial para estabelecer um quadro comum de referências, cujo propósito é remover a conotação \"subjetiva\" desta metodologia sensorial. Ao fazer uso desta metodologia, obtivemos respostas coerentes, similares e com pequenos desvios padrão após treinamento de três meses com o painel, o qual foi capaz de diferenciar sete produtos comerciais hidratantes nos atributos estudados / Sensory analysis is a scientific method used to measure, analyze and interpret reactions related to product characteristics such as perceived through the senses, responding to much more than simply preference for one product over another. Specific scientific methods have been developed to measure or estimate objectively, accurately and reproducibility human responses to stimuli that they are submitted. Descriptive tests, which are part of sensory analysis, require careful control of possible variables that can affect the results, such as test environment, sample storage, skin conditions of the panelists, product attributes selection and training. The training philosophy is to provide the same sensory experience to panelists through the use of a wide variety of references samples, concepts, terminology, protocols, and scales, which is essential to establish a common frame of reference, whose purpose is to remove the\"subjective\" connotation from this sensory methodology. By using this methodology, we achieved consistente, similar and with small standard deviations answers, after three months of training with the panel, which was able to distinguish seven moisturizers commercial products into the studied attributes

This thesis analyzes Czech cosmetic company Dermacol in the on-line environment. The crucial goal was to give a compact overview of Dermacol's on-line activities and propose their possible improvement. The theoretical part describes and contrasts the purchase decision process in a traditional store and on the internet. Furthemore, it depicts the evolution of the internet and e-commerce in the Czech Republic. In the next part the situation on the market with decorative cosmetics and Dermacol's position on it is analyzed. Crucial part is dedicated to the on-line tools which are used by Dermacol for its presentation, communication and sale. The recommendations and possible proposals for improvement follow. In the end the thesis deals with a research whose goal was to find out the attitude of the Czech consumers towards decorative cosmetics. Moreover, the research examined the awareness about Dermacol's web and e-hop and the willingness of the Czech women to buy decorative cosmetics via internet.

Submitted by Pablo Possamai (pablopossamai@hotmail.com) on 2018-10-18T10:10:22Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Mayara Costa de Sousa (mayara.sousa@fgv.br) on 2018-10-25T15:10:05Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Suzane Guimarães (suzane.guimaraes@fgv.br) on 2018-10-26T12:47:47Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-10-26T12:47:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-09-20 / A busca por eficiência e constante redução de custos tem levado muitas organizações a reestruturarem seus processos e suas atividades de compras com o objetivo de gerar maior competitividade para o negócio a partir de processos mais robustos. As compras estratégicas de bens e serviços indiretos têm ganhado espaço nas organizações, o que pode ser explicado, em parte, pela competitividade global, pressão por resultados financeiros e mudanças estruturais na indústria. O objetivo deste trabalho foi demonstrar, mediante estudos de caso centrados em serviços de marketing, jurídico e de logística internacional, como as compras indiretas podem ser gerenciadas de forma mais estratégica, para tanto, analisando como esses processos são conduzidos em uma indústria de cosméticos e como se comparam com a literatura. Este estudo abordou as diferentes situações de gastos indiretos, nesse sentido, identificando os gaps e as oportunidades existentes que possam ser explorados. Neste estudo foi abordado como o gerenciamento por categorias de compras, de acordo com a Matriz de Kraljic (1983), comparase com a classificação interna da empresa segundo as áreas clientes e compras. Demonstra-se que as compras de bens e serviços, quando realizadas de forma estratégica, com o uso de tecnologia e uma estrutura independente, geram ganhos competitivos por meio da redução de custos e permite que as áreas funcionais concentrem seus esforços na atividade principal da área. Os campos analisados foram: gerenciamento por categoria, processo de compras e como compras se relaciona com as outras áreas. Na conclusão, algumas recomendações são propostas para aumentar a efetividade da gestão de compras indiretas de serviços. / The search for efficiency and constant cost reduction has led many organizations to restructure their processes and their sourcing activities in order to generate greater competitiveness for the business thru more robust processes. Strategic sourcing of indirect goods and services have gained space in organizations, which can be partly explained by global competitiveness, pressure for financial results and structural changes in industry. The objective of this work was to demonstrate, through case studies focused on marketing, legal and international logistics services, how indirect sourcing can be managed in a more strategic way, by analyzing how these processes are conducted in a cosmetics industry and how they are compared to the literature. This study addressed the different situations of indirect costs, in this sense, identifying the existing gaps and opportunities that can be explored. In this study it was approached how the category management, according to the Kraljic Matrix (1983), compares with the internal classification of the company according to the internal customers and sourcing areas. It is demonstrated that the sourcing of goods and services, when carried out in a strategic way, using technology and an independent structure, generates competitive gains through cost reduction and allows the functional areas to concentrate their efforts on thei main activities. The fields analyzed were: category management, sourcing processes and how the sourcing interacts with the other areas in the organization. In the conclusion, some recommendations are proposed to increase the effectiveness of indirect sourcing management.

Slogans can be attributed as a way in which to communicate a brand's message to its key consumer. An effectively established brand amongst targeted consumers can in turn generate profitability and ever further promote the brand. The purpose of this paper was to investigate the effectiveness of advertisements that employ vague or precise cosmetic product brand slogans among both male and female consumers. Ultimately, the end goal of marketing is to make a sale. Additionally, the purpose of this study was to determine whether or not the length of a slogan is an influential factor on the participant's motivation to purchase a cosmetic or skincare product. Data was collected through the use of survey in an online social media format, in order to test the effectiveness of different lengths of slogans for slogan recall, brand recall, brand awareness and purchase intention. Prior research and hypotheses were used to predict the concept that shorter more concise or precise slogans in this study would heighten the levels of all measured variables in the study, slogan recall, brand recall, brand awareness and purchase intention. The results of this paper conclude overall vague slogans have the potential to reach higher levels of slogan recall ability , brand recall and the intent to purchase, on the contrary shorter more precise slogans affect brand awareness at a greater level than the lengthier slogans.

For evaluation of potential skincare ingredients, an in-house method using Static Franz diffusion cells and dialysis membranes was developed. Benzoic acid was chosen as a model substance along with L-ascorbic acid and α-Tocopherol. The cell conditions were tailored to encourage transmembrane diffusion. Benzoic acid was tested in acetate buffer (pH 4.6), which yielded a maximum flux of 0.91 ± 0.03 mg ∙ cm-2 ∙ h-1 and absorption of 103 ± 4 % out of the applied dose after 8 h. There were strong indications that benzoic acid ionization must be suppressed by lower pH to increase penetration rates. L-ascorbic acid yielded a flux of 0.29 ± 0.01 mg ∙ cm-2 ∙ h-1 in phosphate buffered saline (PBS, pH 7.4) and absorption of 87 ± 7 % of the applied dose after 8 h. Experiments with α-tocopherol showed no penetration in PBS with added bovine serum albumin (BSA), leading to the hypothesis that more hydrophobic membranes and/or receptor medium are needed for the study of lipophilic compounds. In addition, the release of benzoic acid from the amorphous mesoporous magnesium carbonate Upsalite® was investigated. The results showed significant release and penetration of benzoic acid from the solid matrix in both acetate buffer and PBS. The maximum flux was estimated to 6.61 ± 0.96 mg ∙ cm-2 ∙ h-1 in acetate buffer and 99 ± 9 %  of the applied dose was absorbed after 3h. Tests of Upsalite with benzoic acid on hydrophobic silicone and Strat-M membranes showed no significant penetration, likely due to insufficient wetting of the sample. Pre-wetting of Strat-M membrane lead to penetration of benzoic acid into the membrane. Flux rates achieved on synthetic membranes are generally much higher compared to skin, which results in this thesis show. In conclusion, data for pure benzoic acid and L-ascorbic acid in the developed method using dialysis membranes showed reasonable agreement with literature. Penetration of benzoic acid is pH-dependent and may be either increased or decreased by choice of skin model or by using Upsalite as vehicle. Choosing a buffer pH below the pKa of the substance may enhance penetration. Introducing L-ascorbic acid in Upsalite could potentially increase the permeation, similar to that of benzoic acid.

MyVice speaks about the guilt I feel regarding the amount of beauty products I own. About these Things I collect and I just cannot control how many I buy... About my addiction to the rituals connected to these Things. About the obsession with beauty products within our homes. About the daily beauty rituals of a woman which are meant to produce the final result of appearance that she really was Born Like This... About the advertising connected with beauty industry. About beauty product testing on the internet. About being superficial and the senselessness of it. The final result is made of a video projection connected to art installation and book publication.

This diploma thesis is focused on the study of the influence of the of size cosmetics pigments on the properties of the final product. This effect was studied on samples of make-up given by industry partner. Make-up samples were measured by the rheology method and the yield stress of all samples was determined. Scanning electron microscopy was used to determine the size and shape of the pigment particles. Particle size was also measured by dynamic light scattering, but the results were influenced by forming aggregates. To easier determination of the types of pigments in the sample was determined elemental composition of the pigments (Ti, Fe, O, Al) by EDS detector. Due to the unknown composition of make-up, the information was supplemented by X-ray powder diffraction (XRD) analysis, and it was possible to determine the compounds TiO2 (anatase and rutile), FeOOH and Fe2O3. The results obtained by these methods showed what pigments can be found in make-up samples, what their sizes and shapes are. It has been shown that the smaller the pigments are, the higher the viscosity and yield stress of the final product. The higher these quantities, the harder it is to handle the product.

The main focus areas of this master thesis include the writing of a literature review, which contains an overview and segregation of pigments which are used in the preparation of cosmetic products. The thesis is focused on the properties and characterization of pigments for use in cosmetology. The following focus is on legislation, more specifically on pigments that the cosmetic industry allows, limits and does not allow. The main part of this thesis is an overview of methods for the characterization of pigments. The practical part deals with the characterization of particles of selected cosmetic pigments by applying methods for determination of color, elemental and phase composition, particle size and morphology. The thesis is concluded by evaluation of the achieved results.