A tese analisa o jornalismo de moda, problematizando o funcionamento dessa prática comunicativa em relação ao seu discurso. Concluímos que este é um discurso híbrido, fortemente constituído pela interdiscursividade do jornalismo, da publicidade e da estética. O trabalho busca compreender de que modo o discurso jornalístico de moda se organiza, como resultado de um processo, e como realiza a gestão dos outros discursos que o conformam como um gênero discursivo singular. Para examinar o funcionamento deste discurso híbrido, selecionamos três tipos de matérias jornalísticas de moda: as reportagens de desfiles, as matérias de tendências e os editoriais fotográficos. Os objetos empíricos escolhidos são as edições das revistas Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue e Harper's Bazaar publicadas em 2015, formando um corpus de 4.406 páginas de matérias jornalísticas. Utilizamos como método a Análise de Discurso de linha francesa, operando especialmente o conceito de paráfrase, que permite, a partir das marcas discursivas verbais e não verbais encontradas no texto, identificar as principais estratégias dos discursos jornalístico, publicitário e estético. De acordo com nossa pesquisa, o jornalismo aciona as estratégias de novidade, atualidade, veracidade, didatismo, uso de fontes especializadas, autoridade e normatividade para cumprir suas finalidades. A publicidade aciona especialmente as estratégias de magia, idealização, personalização e linguagem figurada. Já a estética mobiliza as estratégias de cenografia, cores, escala, formação de conjuntos, estilo, ritmo e tipografia. Concluímos que, a partir de dinâmicas que cruzam certos conjuntos de estratégias, o jornalismo de moda é tecido como um discurso híbrido, e este hibridismo é sua condição de existência. Destacamos ainda que é o discurso jornalístico, atuando como regente nesse contrato de comunicação particular, que vai elencar, com maior ou menor intensidade, as estratégias dos outros dois discursos, estabelecendo diferentes movimentos de dominância para atender ao leitor do jornalismo de moda. / The thesis analyzes fashion journalism, discussing this communicative practice performance regarding its own discourse. It is concluded that this is a hybrid discourse, strongly consisted of journalism, advertising, and aesthetics discursiveness. This paper aims to understand how fashion journalism discourse is structured, as the result of a process, and how it controls the other ones that shape it into a unique discourse genre. In order to examine how this hybrid discourse works, three types of fashion news articles were selected: news reports of fashion shows, articles about trends, and fashion editorials. The empirical materials chosen are issues of Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar magazines published in 2015, raising a corpus consisted of 4.406 pages of journalistic news articles. The method used was the French Discourse Analysis, being applied – especially- the paraphrase concept which allowed us, through verbal and non-verbal discursive markers found in the text, to identify the main strategies of journalistic, advertising, and aesthetic discourses. According to our research, journalism triggers strategies of discoveries, updates, veracity, didacticism, use of sources of expertise, authority, and normativeness to meet its goals. Advertising especially activates the strategies of magic, idealization, customization and figurative language. Aesthetics, on the other hand, impels scenography, color, scale, ensemble formation, style, rhythm, and typography strategies. It is concluded that, from the dynamics that cross certain strategy groups, fashion journalism is built as a hybrid discourse, and this hybridity is its own survival condition. Also, it is possible to highlight that the journalistic discourse, which works as the conductor of this particular communication agreement, is the one that will list, with more or less depth, the strategies of those other discourses, establishing different movements of preeminence to serve fashion journalism readers.

Diploma thesis Fashion blogs and research on the phenomenon discusses a relatively new phenomenon of personal blogs with a focus on fashion and style. It presents fashion blogs in all their complexity, including the definition, classification, origin and evolution. The second section compares the descriptive way fashion blogs with thematically related fashion magazines and from various perspectives: formal characteristics, work organization, text, picture and graphic elements, audiences, the use of advertising and PR and representation of reality. The practical part is focused on qualitative research fashion blog - by a focus group interview with fashion bloggers and subsequently grounded theory method of analysis examines the various relationships, especially causal, which operate under the studied phenomenon. Through reveals further aspects of the fashion blogging such as motivation, fears, needs, dreams and ambitions of bloggers. The goal is to answer the question of how fashion blogs with its distinctive style and authors presentation define the fashion magazines and propose a basic theory of operation of the medium as yet not explored.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:17:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Mario Antonio Pinto De Queiroz.pdf: 43340256 bytes, checksum: aad5cd5c0c01608cce769d1885008676 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-04-23 / The objective of this study is to analyze how fashion editorials reflect the image of man at the turn of the 21st century, and discuss the relation between fashion and the hero in the masculine world. It aims at discussing whether man s fashion through the images developed for this magazine points at transformations in the behavior of men or maintains conservative traits that restrict novelties in men s outfits and behavior. The magazine chosen Arena Homme Plus is one of the few magazines worldwide that is exclusively geared towards men s fashion. This British publication features major designers from Europe and the United States and circulates worldwide showing the work of designers, photographers, producers thus influencing the fashion industry and consumers. This study starts by focusing on the early days of fashion photography in the 1920s when photographs begin to replace illustration. It points out that a journalistic production geared to the male public had been around since the 19th century and included from men s magazines with essays of female nudes to our object of study: men s fashion magazines. The study focuses on the photo essays, the fashion editorials, of these issues published in the late 1990s and beginning of the third millennium and on the content revealed through the eyes of major contemporary photographs and though the choices made by fashion professionals during the production stage. Fashion editorials account for most of the content of Arena Homme Plus and each issue may include up to six of them, with an average of forty photographs. The editorials were chosen according to their relevance to discuss the hero, investigating the different faces of man at the turn of the millennium. The theoretical framework includes the concepts of imprinting, imaginary and noosphere as developed by Edgard Morin. The analysis is based on the theoretical framework provided by semiotics as applied to the field of culture, specifically to fashion. The study concludes that the image of man has been shattered into myriad variations so that it is no longer possible to try to think of the masculine as a single segment, something that vanguard fashion magazines, such as Arena Homme Plus, have long recognized / O objetivo deste estudo é analisar como os editoriais de moda refletem a imagem do homem no final do século XX e início do XXI, discutindo como se dá a relação moda versus o herói no universo masculino. A intenção é discutir se a moda masculina através das imagens elaboradas para esta publicação aponta transformações no comportamento do masculino e se ainda preserva traços conservadores, restritivos às novidades nos trajes e no comportamento do homem. A revista escolhida Arena Homme Plus é uma das únicas publicações do mundo dedicada exclusivamente à moda masculina. Esta publicação inglesa, que abrange as grandes grifes da Europa e dos Estados Unidos, circula em todo o mundo apresentando trabalhos de estilistas, fotógrafos, produtores, influenciando a indústria da moda e seus consumidores. O presente estudo parte dos primórdios da fotografia de moda, quando, por volta dos anos 20, fotos começam a substituir croquis. A pesquisa aponta o jornalismo voltado ao masculino desde o século XIX, passando pelas revistas masculinas com ensaios de nus femininos até chegarmos ao nosso objetivo maior: as revistas de moda masculina dos últimos anos da década de 1990 e do início deste terceiro milênio. Nessas publicações o foco está nos ensaios fotográficos, como eles revelam os principais fotógrafos contemporâneos e como são produzidos pelos profi ssionais de moda. Os editoriais de moda representam o maior conteúdo da revista Arena Homme Plus e cada edição pode trazer até seis, o que representa em média quarenta fotos. Os editoriais escolhidos são os mais significativos para a discussão do herói, pesquisando as diversas faces do homem nesta virada de milênio. O instrumental teórico utiliza os conceitos de imprinting, imaginário e noosfera, de Edgar Morin. A base teórica da análise segue a linha da semiótica no campo de discussão sobre a cultura, mais especificamente sobre a moda. Conclui-se que a imagem do homem se estilhaçou numa palheta de grandes variações e que não há como tentar resumir o masculino como um único segmento, o que as revistas de moda de vanguarda, como a Arena Homme Plus, já não considera há tempos

This study was carried out during the spring of 2013 in Cape Town, South Africa with a Minor Field Study (MFS) scholarship funded by the Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency (SIDA). South Africa is a country with a complex society due to the still recent history of Apartheid. South Africa faces great challenges with the gap between rich and poor, high unemployment and deep expertise gaps between the white minority and the historically disadvantaged coloureds and black majority. As a result the contemporary situation is extensive segregation and difficulties for the multicultural population to conduct a common cultural identity. The aim of this study was to find out how four South African issues of international fashion magazines deals with the representation of black, white and coloured people. Furthermore, to find out how South African women from socially diverse areas experience and perceive this representation. Quantitative content analysis, connotative and denotative picture analysis and the conduction of interviews was made in order to reach a result. Consequently, it turned out that the investigated magazines do not present a fair and equal representation of the South African society, hence highly over representing the white minority in each magazine. Additionally, South African women do not describe the fashion magazines as presenting an equal representation of race, neither that a reality based ideal is being conveyed.

This thesis focuses on three fashion industry themed female friendship films: Pret-a-Porter/Ready to Wear (1994) by Robert Altman, The Devil Wears Prada (2006) by David Frankel, and The September Issue (2009) by R.J. Cutler. Female interpersonal relationships are complex – women often work to motivate, encourage and transform one another but can just as easily use tactics like intimidation, manipulation, and exploitation in order to save their own jobs and reputations. Through the lens of post-feminist theory, this thesis examines significant female interpersonal relationships in each film to illustrate how femininity is constructed and driven by consumer culture in the fashion industry themed films.