Ce travail de recherche porte sur les liens qu'entretiennent l'animal et la mode, au prisme d'une étude iconographique orientée par une approche pluridisciplinaire. Entre fascination et paradoxes, la mise à contribution de l'animal et de ses attributs – physiques, graphiques, symboliques – sert d'abord les productions matérielles et immatérielles de la mode : les bêtes participent aux stratégies de transfiguration du réel propres à ce secteur économique singulier. Dans le même mouvement, le recours à l'animal apparaît aussi comme le relais esthétisé de représentations normées ; il devient un prétexte pour penser le monde, la nature humaine et ses rapports sociaux. Ainsi, tout en suivant la dynamique contemporaine d'engouement pour une Wilderness fantasmée, l'iconographie de la mode participe aux réécritures actuelles de ce qui fait l'humain. Néanmoins, les images de mode jouent un rôle dans les réévaluations et les négociations croissantes des frontières qui séparent les membres du vivant. En développant un travail spécifique autour du corps et de ses parures, elles proposent une voie alternative pour reconsidérer une altérité animale aux contours de plus en plus poreux. Il s'agit donc d'observer comment les formes visuelles de la mode et de son imaginaire traduisent la complexité de relations anthropozoologiques contemporaines en pleine mutation. / This research explores the connections between fashion and the animal, by means of an iconographic study guided by a multidisciplinary approach. Raising fascination and paradoxes, the use of the animal and its attributes – physical, graphical, symbolic – benefits, in the first place, material and symbolic fashion’s productions : animals are involved in the transfiguration-of-reality strategies peculiar to the unique economic sector that is fashion industry. At the same time, animals appear to be an efficient and aesthetic way of representing human activity : they are a tool to rethink the world, human nature and social relationships. Thus, involved in the general contemporary dynamics of keen interest for a fantasized Wilderness, the fashion iconography contributes to the current rewriting of human definition. Nevertheless, fashion pictures play a part in the growing negotiation of boundaries between members of the biological field. By developing a specific work on the human body an its fineries, they offer an alternative path to the reconsideration of an animal otherness whose borders seem more permeable everyday. This work is an attempt to examine how fashion's visual forms and imaginary express the contemporary complexity of far-changing anthropozoologic interactions.

What it means to be a Muslim woman is frequently redefined in reaction to the notions of ‘Muslim womanhood’ constructed within neoliberal society. By examining the ways in which Hijabi fashion bloggers use the visual discourse of their Instagram accounts to implement specific notions of taste, authenticity and branding this project aims to address the question of where fashion blogs fit within mainstream fashion frameworks and the ways in which the assumed tensions surrounding veiling and fashion are disrupted.

in English The view of fashion as a system of signification, first introduced in the important work of Roland Barthes The Fashion System (1967), has been dominant since the development of Fashion Studies. But in the last two decades it has been increasingly criticized and confronted with the concepts of identity as flexible dimensions. From a semiotic perspective, the materiality of clothes almost "disappears" into representation. Emerging research on fashion, on the contrary, draws on Gilles Deleuze's notions, that ideas are inseparable from their material expression, and tries to follow attempts in fashion to break with representational mode. But, if Deleuze argues that the possibilities to escape the representation belongs to modern art, with its metamorphoses, what can we argue about fashion? The thesis underlines that above all, fashion is commerce, and each brand carefully constructs its system of values. The physical experience of wearing clothes is always influenced by the meanings circulating in the system of fashion. The limitations of applied semiotics of fashion are evident (clothing and its representations always exist in the context of further semiotic systems), but ultimately unlike the heterogeneity of everyday practice, the "methodological purity" of discursive practices permits...

Finland’s Biggest Dress Party – A Study of the Role of Women’s Appearances at the Independence Day Reception, aims to understand the role of dresses at Finland’s Independence Day Reception by focusing on how the reception has earned a title “Finland’s biggest dress party”, and meanings behind the dresses. The aims are studied combining fashion and media studies in three analytical chapters focusing on the media’s development and influence, how the dresses work as a communication tool and what kind of messages are sent through dresses, and Finnishness and national identity in the dresses. The chapters are linked to each other by the importance of the communication between the dresses, the media and the audience during the hype around the Independence Day Reception. The study is based on interviews, which were conducted with seven reception guests and three dress designers, archival studies, visual culture studies and (fashion) media discourse. The study draws on theories by Roland Barthes, Malcolm Barnard and Erving Goffman.

Both the fashion magazine and the fashion exhibition are powerful and authoritative sites for the representation, interpretation, and construction of fashion. Despite various intersections between the two, their relationship has remained relatively unstudied. This thesis aims to reveal and problematize the relationship between leading institutions in the United Kingdom: British Vogue and the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A). An analysis of British Vogue’s content and the V&A’s fashion exhibitions of Vivienne Westwood: 34 Years in Fashion (2004) and Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (2015) is employed in order to unpack how these institutions are involved in defining and institutionalizing what fashion is in a national context. This institutional analysis considers the wider implications of the conception of British fashion produced by these institutions in regard to class, race, and gender, as Great British fashion is dependent on a system of representations that reveals hierarchies and exclusions.

Obiettivo di questa tesi è una lettura del coolhunting, attività professionale ancora relativamente poco diffusa, come luogo emblematico di meccanismi simbolici cruciali per spiegare non solo il sistema della moda ma anche molti degli andamenti della produzione e del consumo di beni materiali ricchi di contenuti immateriali. Non a caso, il debito teorico di questo lavoro non riguarda solo i fashion studies a partire dal classico saggio di Simmel, ma soprattutto un autore come Pierre Bourdieu, che poche pagine ha dedicato alla moda ma ha coniato concetti, come quelli di campo, capitale culturale e simbolico, habitus e distinzione, che sono diventati imprescindibili in ogni studio di tipo culturale. La base empirica della ricerca è costituita da 42 interviste del tipo racconti di vita, che hanno coinvolto una variegata popolazione di coolhunters inseriti in agenzie o nelle imprese della moda, ricercatori e consulenti free-lance, le cui esperienze lavorative sono analiticamente descritte nei capitoli centrali della tesi. La ricostruzione del mondo del coolhunting si avvale anche di una accurata ricerca effettuata su siti web dedicati. Nel capitolo finale la prospettiva teorica e il corpus di informazioni raccolte trovano una sintesi in (a) una definizione articolata ma precisa di cool-hunter; (b) una tipologia idealtipica; (c) nel concetto bourdieusiano di distinzione, che sembra essere la posta in gioco intorno alla quale ruota tutto il mondo del coolhunting. I coolhunters emergono come intermediari culturali riconosciuti per la loro capacità di cogliere gli stili di consumo emergenti e le macrotendenze culturali per offrirli come spunto alla creatività dei produttori di oggetti di moda mainstream. / The aim of this thesis is a reading of coolhunting, an emergent professional activity, as an emblematic place of symbolic mechanisms that are crucial in order to explain not only the fashion system but also many cultural processes of the production and the consumption of material goods rich of immaterial contents. The theoretical debt does not regard only the fashion studies, beginning from the classic work of Simmel, but above all an author like Pierre Bourdieu, that has dedicated few pages to the fashion, but has coined concepts - as those of field, cultural and symbolic capital, habitus, distinction - that are nowadays essential in every cultural study. The empiric base of the research is a set of 42 in-depht interviews that have involved a heterogeneous population of coolhunters working in trend agencies or fashion companies, researchers and free-lance consultants, whose working experiences are analytically described in the central chapters of the thesis. The reconstruction of the world of the coolhunting is carried out also with a search based on dedicated websites. In the final chapter the theoretical perspective and the empirical evidences are summarized in (a) an articulate definition of coolhunter; b) an idealtypical classification of coolhunting workers; (c) in Pierre Bourdiue’s concept of distinction, that seems to be the stake that moves the field of coolhunting. The coolhunters emerge as cultural intermediaries recognized for their ability to identify the emergent styles of consumption and macro-cultural trends in order to offer them as useful ideas to the creativity of the producers of fashionable mainstream objects.

La littérature entretient un rapport à la mode, non seulement dans ses formes qui sont en dialogue avec l’époque, mais aussi dans ses sujets où la mode devient partie prenante du récit. L’avènement du prêt-à-porter en tant qu’« événement majeur » de l’après-guerre (Grau, 2007) remet en conflit les termes d’élégance et d’émancipation. La représentation de la femme du XXe siècle change ainsi au gré des tendances. Alors que le vêtement informe de moins en moins sur les repères sociaux culturels (il se neutralise et s’universalise), l’idéal féminin est fortement requestionné entre autres par les femmes de lettres françaises, témoins privilégiés de cette époque. Simone de Beauvoir et Violette Leduc rédigent deux ouvrages imprégnés de ce profond questionnement du soi féminin intellectuel et de la performance du genre. Mémoires d’une jeune fille rangée (Simone de Beauvoir, 1958) et La Bâtarde (Violette Leduc, 1964) en tant que romans d’apprentissage écrits par des femmes dans la France de l’après-guerre mettent de l’avant ce rapport à la mode comme construction du genre ; construction qui entre cependant en conflit avec la représentation de la femme intellectuelle de l’époque. La perception du genre chez Beauvoir et Leduc se manifeste alors et surtout à travers une tension relevée entre mode (exhibition de la féminité) et intellectualisme (exhibition de la neutralité) ; tension perceptible à travers les alternances du dit et du non-dit. Est-il possible de performer un genre féminin intellectuel ? Et de quelle manière cette performance se manifeste-t-elle ? Pour répondre à cette problématique, les études menées sur le Bildungsroman féminin (Labovitz, 1986 ; Šnircová, 2015) nous permettront d’observer le phénomène de l’apprentissage d’un idéal de la féminité. L’on relèvera par la suite à l’aide d’études entreprises sur la mode et son influence (Baudot, 1999 ; Craik, 1994 ; Evans, 1999) de même qu’à travers les concepts de performance et de performativité (Féral, 2013 ; Kollnitz et Pecorari, 2021), les diverses tentatives de réappropriation par les deux intellectuelles à l’étude de cet idéal féminin véhiculé. Enfin, il s’agira de révéler, au regard des études sur les identités sexuelles (Butler, 1999 ; Lipovetsky, 2006), la présence d’un rapport inédit et complexe entre la femme intellectuelle du XXe siècle et le genre. / Literature maintains a relationship with fashion not only through its forms, which are in conversation with the era, but also through its subjects as fashion becomes a necessary part of the narrative. The advent of ready-to-wear clothing as a “major event” of the post-war period (Grau, 2007) brings the terms “elegance” and “emancipation” into conflict. The representation of the 20th century woman thus changes according to trends. While the garment is losing its impact on cultural social landmarks⁠ by becoming neutral and universal⁠, French women of letters—the privileged witnesses of this era—are strongly questioning the conveyed feminine ideal. Two of them, Simone de Beauvoir and Violette Leduc, wrote important novels challenging the notions of the female intellectual self and gender performance: Mémoires d’une jeune fille rangée (Simone de Beauvoir, 1958) and La Bâtarde (Violette Leduc, 1964). These two Bildungsroman written in post-war France make the case for fashion as an active component in gender construction; a construction that, however, conflicts with the representation of the female intellectual at the time. Indeed, Beauvoir and Leduc’s perception of gender manifests through a tension between fashion (the exhibition of femininity) and intellectualism (the exhibition of neutrality); a tension noticeable through the alternations of the verbal and the non-verbal. Therefore, is it possible to perform a feminine intellectual gender? If so, how does this performance manifest? To answer these questions, we will first look into studies on the female Bildungsroman (Labovitz, 1986; Šnircová, 2015); this will help us understand how an ideal of femininity is not simply an inherent phenomenon but one that is learnt. Then, we will focus on fashion studies (Baudot, 1999; Craik, 1994; Evans, 1999) and the concepts of performance and performativity (Féral, 2013 ; Kollnitz et Pecorari, 2021); this will allow us to show the various attempts at reappropriation of the feminine ideal conveyed to the two intellectuals considered in this thesis. Finally, we will turn to gender studies (Butler, 1999; Lipovetsky, 2006) to reveal the presence of an unprecedented and complex relation between the intellectual woman of the 20th century and gender.

This thesis explores the societal implications of Gustav III’s national costume in the context of Swedish court society during the late eighteenth century. With the aims of uncovering King Gustav III’s view of the National Costume and its role in Swedish court society, as well as how we can understand the National Costume’s meaning for the aristocracy in late eighteenth-century Sweden, this thesis presents a post-structural textual analysis of Gustav III’s (1806) REFLEXIONER, angående en ny nationel klädedrägt (Reflections concerning a new national costume) in order to uncover King Gustav III’s perception of and ideology behind the national costume. This is then juxtaposed with a similar analysis of a chapter from Hedvig Elisabeth Charlotta’s (1902) journal, representing an aristocratic counter-perspective. This thesis presents a previously unexplored sociological perspective in studying Gustav III’s National Costume. Departing from Norbert Elias’ work around the court society, arguments are made for the interpretation of the National Costume as an instrument in court ceremonial, at the king’s disposal, holding the potential to create a distance in power between the Swedish court nobility and the monarchy. Furthermore, it is argued that the National Costume represents an oppressive force to the Swedish court nobility as a social class.