Esta dissertação tem por objetivo tratar do problema de encaixe de moldes da indústria do vestuário. O problema consiste no encaixe bidimensional de itens pequenos (moldes), que possuem formas irregulares, dentro de um material que será cortado, que possui forma retangular com largura fixa e comprimento variável. O principal objetivo do encaixe é minimizar o desperdício do material que será cortado, neste caso, o tecido. Para tratar o problema do encaixe bidimensional de moldes propõe-se, a partir do desenvolvimento de uma técnica de encaixe, um protótipo funcional.A concepção da técnica foi realizada com as informações obtidas nas etapas de coleta de dados: dados indiretos (Fundamentação Teórica) e dados diretos (Observações Diretas e Entrevistas com especialistas no encaixe manual). Os dados obtidos nessas etapas e, principalmente, a triangulação dos mesmos, permitiram o desenvolvimento da técnica de encaixe de moldes, que consiste em três partes: representação gráfica do tecido e dos moldes, critérios de ordenamento e construção do layout. A técnica proposta está implementada no protótipo funcional Riscare através da linguagem Delphi. Para construir a interface do Riscare, realiza-se uma avaliação da usabilidade de um software comercial com a mesma função. Os conceitos avaliados auxiliaram no desenvolvimento da interface do Riscare. A criação do protótipo funcional possibilitou a comparação da técnica proposta para o encaixe de moldes com encaixes realizados manualmente, com um software comercial e com problemas considerados benchmarks da literatura. Na maioria dos testes comparativos realizados, o Riscare obteve resultados com rendimentos superiores. Os resultados alcançados mostram a qualidade da técnica proposta e, consequentemente, do protótipo funcional desenvolvido. / The objective of this work is to deal with pattern fitting problem in garment industry. The problem is two-dimensional fitting of small items (patterns) that have irregular shapes, within a material to be cut, which has a rectangular shape with fixed width and variable length. The main purpose of fitting is to minimize the material waste, in this case the fabric to be cut. To address the problem of two-dimensional pattern fitting, a functional prototype is proposed based on the fitting technique developed. The design technique is done with the information obtained in data collection: indirect data (theoretical basis) and direct data (observations and interviews with experts in manual fitting). Data obtained in data collection and its triangulation enabled the development of the pattern fitting technique, which consists of three parts: the graphical representation of the fabric and the pattern, the ranking criteria and layout construction. The proposed technique is implemented in Riscare functional prototype, developed using Delphi programming. An usability evaluation of a similar commercial software is performed to build the Riscare interface. The criteria evaluated helped the development of Riscare interface. The development of a functional prototype allows the comparison of the proposed technique for pattern fitting with fitting performed manually, with a commercial software and literature benchmark problems. In most comparative tests, the Riscare obtains results with higher yields. The results show the quality of the proposed technique and the functional prototype developed.

Cities all over the world have increasingly covered the topics about sustainable development. In the recent years, the garment industry has presented responsibilities and engagements towards sustainable development. Environmental awareness has increased in most societies. There is no doubt that consumers are demanding for more sustainable measures and this increases pressure on apparel enterprises to take actions and implement policies in order to secure their business. In terms of the garment industry, there is a rise of sustainably consciousness in the past decades.This leads to the purpose of this research project, which is to identify the key factors that affect consumer attitudes and behaviour regarding sustainability issues in textile industry, with a consumer study in Hong Kong. Key objectives in this research relate to consumer awareness of sustainable development aspects in garment purchasing decisions. This is a qualitative consumer study with an exploratory approach. Hong Kong citizens who were born in the 1990s were selected to join the two focus groups. This is because this generation is consumption-oriented, and also more conscious to sustainable development. It can be concluded that numerous factors and considerations that play an essential role in consumers’ purchasing decision in garment industry. Moreover, consumers perceive that several parties are responsible for being sustainable as this has been important in this industry.

O objetivo da pesquisa é discutir as redes de subcontratação e o trabalho informal no circuito das confecções em São Paulo. A partir de uma região periférica na zona leste da cidade tratou-se de averiguar as relações entre trabalho e o espaço urbano no qual essas confecções vêm se instalando. O processo de reestruturação produtiva da indústria de confecções durante a década de 1990 fez multiplicar as chamadas oficinas de fundo de quintal e o trabalho a domicílio nos bairros das ex-costureiras das fábricas pelas vias de redes de subcontratação e do trabalho informal. As ex-operárias mobilizam familiares e vizinhos no trabalho, estabelecendo redes sociais pelas quais circulam as encomendas de costura. Associado a esta dinâmica, esse circuito também vem mobilizando os fluxos da migração clandestina dos bolivianos que já podem ser encontrados nos locais mais distantes do extremo leste da cidade. O material da pesquisa é composto por trajetórias sociais de pessoas ligadas ao setor, recompostas com entrevistas gravadas e semi-diretivas, e acompanhadas por pesquisa de campo. / The aim of this study is to discuss the sub-hiring and informal labor networks that have been developing in the garment industry of Sao Paulo. Focusing on a suburban eastern area of the city, the research was carried out in order to analyze the labor relations and the urban space in which this informal market is being settled. The productive adjustment process that took place in the garment industry during the 1990s led to an increasing number of small garment workshops and in domicile work in the neighborhoods where dressmakers used to work for factories. This growth in the informal market took place through the sub-hiring and informal labor networks. The ex-dressmakers mobilize relatives and neighbors to work in this field, establishing the social networks that keep the garment orders active. Due to this dynamic process, this circuit has been mobilizing the flow of clandestine migration of Bolivian people, who can be found in the further eastern neighborhoods of the city. The research corpus is composed by social trajectories of people related to this sector, mainly through semi-directive recorded interviews and followed by field research.

Submitted by William Justo Figueiro (williamjf) on 2015-07-21T23:16:34Z No. of bitstreams: 1 75c.pdf: 948103 bytes, checksum: d97ba03812274b5e03ccd2d08e5fedfe (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-07-21T23:16:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 75c.pdf: 948103 bytes, checksum: d97ba03812274b5e03ccd2d08e5fedfe (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010 / Nenhuma / Esta dissertação teve por objetivo analisar a predisposição cultural de um grupo de médias e grandes indústrias de confecção de artigos do vestuário localizadas no Rio Grande do Sul para inovar através do Design. Por meio da análise teórica de alguns constructos essenciais à compreensão do problema de pesquisa, construiu-se um protocolo de investigação. Realizou-se, primeiramente, a identificação de fatores externos de competitividade do setor para, em seguida, construir um instrumento de coleta de dados que desse conta dos objetivos específicos. Com a identificação dos fatores internos de aprendizagem individual e organizacional, pretendeu-se avaliar a disposição cultural das empresas para inovar, tendo como pressuposto que a inovação orientada pelo Design pode ser compreendida como um ciclo de aprendizagem. A cadeia produtiva têxtil engloba diversos elos, sendo a indústria de confecção de artigos do vestuário aquele que está mais próximo das demandas dos consumidores finais. Desde os anos 1990, esse elo da cadeia vem sofrendo com a abertura de novos mercados e tem estado sob forte pressão para diferenciar-se em algum grau pelos métodos de produção ou preço, pressão esta que se acirra devido à globalização e à produção de bens desterritorializada. Examinar a estrutura dessas empresas frente a tal conjuntura mundial foi essencial para notar a necessidade latente da criação de estratégias e ações alicerçadas em uma metodologia que garanta a obtenção de vantagens competitivas sólidas frente às novas exigências. Este trabalho caracteriza-se como um Estudo de Caso do tipo descritivo exploratório, do ponto de vista de seus objetivos, e apresenta abordagem quantitativa e qualitativa. / This thesis aimed to examine the cultural predisposition of a group of medium and large industries located in Rio Grande do Sul to innovate through Design. Through the analysis of some essential theoretical constructs to the comprehension of the research problem, was first built a research protocol. Held, first, the identification of external factors of competitiveness of the sector to then build an instrument of data collection seeking to achieve the specific goals. Identifying the internal factors of individual and organizational learning, we sought to assess the cultural disposition of businesses to innovate having the assumption that innovation driven-design can be understood as a learning cycle. The textile production chain includes various links, and the industry of garments is closest to the demands of consumers. Since the 1990s, the garments industry has been suffering with the opening of new markets and has been under strong pressure to differentiate themselves in some degree by the methods of production or price, that exacerbates this pressure due to globalization. Examine the structure of these companies facing such a situation was essential to note the latent need of the creation of strategies and actions founded upon a methodology that ensures the achievement of competitive advantages solid front to the new requirements. This work is characterized as a Case Study using descriptive and exploratory research methods in terms of its objectives, and presents quantitative and qualitative approach.

O objetivo da pesquisa é discutir as redes de subcontratação e o trabalho informal no circuito das confecções em São Paulo. A partir de uma região periférica na zona leste da cidade tratou-se de averiguar as relações entre trabalho e o espaço urbano no qual essas confecções vêm se instalando. O processo de reestruturação produtiva da indústria de confecções durante a década de 1990 fez multiplicar as chamadas oficinas de fundo de quintal e o trabalho a domicílio nos bairros das ex-costureiras das fábricas pelas vias de redes de subcontratação e do trabalho informal. As ex-operárias mobilizam familiares e vizinhos no trabalho, estabelecendo redes sociais pelas quais circulam as encomendas de costura. Associado a esta dinâmica, esse circuito também vem mobilizando os fluxos da migração clandestina dos bolivianos que já podem ser encontrados nos locais mais distantes do extremo leste da cidade. O material da pesquisa é composto por trajetórias sociais de pessoas ligadas ao setor, recompostas com entrevistas gravadas e semi-diretivas, e acompanhadas por pesquisa de campo. / The aim of this study is to discuss the sub-hiring and informal labor networks that have been developing in the garment industry of Sao Paulo. Focusing on a suburban eastern area of the city, the research was carried out in order to analyze the labor relations and the urban space in which this informal market is being settled. The productive adjustment process that took place in the garment industry during the 1990s led to an increasing number of small garment workshops and in domicile work in the neighborhoods where dressmakers used to work for factories. This growth in the informal market took place through the sub-hiring and informal labor networks. The ex-dressmakers mobilize relatives and neighbors to work in this field, establishing the social networks that keep the garment orders active. Due to this dynamic process, this circuit has been mobilizing the flow of clandestine migration of Bolivian people, who can be found in the further eastern neighborhoods of the city. The research corpus is composed by social trajectories of people related to this sector, mainly through semi-directive recorded interviews and followed by field research.

My thesis is about the evolution of the garment industry, both in the U.S and worldwide, with particular emphasis on how this has impacted Latinas and other poor immigrant groups. The thesis traces the rise of garment unions in the U.S. and their subsequent decline as a consequence of competition from the East Asian garment industry and U.S. trade policy. It also discusses the vulnerability of Latinos in the U.S. as a group to exploitation by low wage industries as a result of racial and gender prejudice and legal status.

This study explores conceptualizations of transnational corporate accountability in the responses of Canadian organizations to a crisis in global capitalism. Empirically this study focuses on discussion and debate concerning the involvement of Canadian retail companies in the Rana Plaza disaster, which killed over 1,100 Bangladeshi garment workers on 24 April 2013. Information was drawn from Canadian Parliamentary Committee sessions, documents published by Canadian retail companies, governmental departments and civil society organizations, and nine semi-structured interviews with individuals possessing professional knowledge about corporate governance in global supply chains. A critical discourse analysis method, theoretically informed by the corporate crime literature, Gramsci’s concept of hegemony and Foucault’s notion of knowledge and power, examined the economic, political, and legal assumptions that characterized discussions about transnational corporate crime and accountability. Overall, dominant voices reinforced neoliberal beliefs about the effectiveness of allowing corporations to develop and implement their own means of transnational regulation. Claims describing the social benefits of free markets and flexible regulatory regimes overshadowed concerns about the dangerous and exploitive practices inherent in the production of private capital, which effectively reproduced the (de)regulation of multinational corporations.

India is becoming one of the biggest garment producers in the world and at the bottom of the industry women can often be found working from their homes because of norms restricting them what to do and where to go. These women often work under middlemen who take advantage of their disempowerment. The well-known Indian trade union/social movement the Self-Employed Women’s Association (SEWA) established its producer-company Ruaab to eliminate the middleman and link the home-based workers directly with the fashion companies. This study investigates in what ways the women’s participation in the producer-company Ruaab impact their empowerment process. It is based on a two-month long field study in Delhi, India in which interviews were conducted with women working at three of Ruaab’s centers. Drawing on Mosedale’s definition and Rowland’s analytical framework, the thesis looks at if the women are empowered in three different dimensions: personal, close relations and collective. The results show no clear patterns of empowerment but that SEWA’s work improves many aspects of the women’s life, and that their work should be considered an enhancing part in the women’s empowerment process.

No description available.

原產地規則隨著區域整合之興起，已成為一個相當重要的貿易問題。其不僅與國內整體產業發展有關，對於個別廠商之生產決策與外銷優勢亦有相當程度之影響。尤其對於部分相對弱勢之產業，若制定過於寬鬆之原產地規則，除將面臨區域內國家之進口壓力，區域外國家還可能透過違規轉運藉由優惠性關稅進口。台灣自從與經貿關係密切之中國大陸洽簽了兩岸經濟合作架構協定（Economic Cooperation Framework Agreement，ECFA），隨著貨品逐步之關稅調降，許多區內產品認定問題亦隨之而來。 而本文之研究目的，即為透過原產地規則之制定，在適當的彈性空間下，避免區外國家透過中國大陸轉運，使過多產品享有優惠性關稅進入國內市場，造成國內廠商受到衝擊。而本文所研究之產業為台灣之成衣產業，相較於中國大陸之成衣產業，其目前發展情形相對弱勢，故政府未來針對此產業制定原產地規則時必須更加謹慎地考量國內產業發展，並參考其他FTA所制定相關原產地規則。本文希望透過比較研究其他FTA，並審酌產業發展現況，經適當調整後，試擬一套適合台灣成衣產業之原產地制度。最後，為了解所建議原產地規則之可行性，本文以實際採訪政府機關之方式，了解原產地制度制訂者之看法與意見。 / Rule of origin is a quite important issue since the trend of regional integration. This is not only relevant with the development of domestic industries, but also has impact for the strategies of production and export each firm made. Domestic industries, especially for the relatively weak industries, will burden much pressure if the rules of origin are too simple and less restrictive. Sine Taiwan signed Economic Cooperation Framework Agreement（ECFA）with China, we need to consider all the issues and impact rules of origin may occur. The main subject of this thesis is to set up appropriate rules of origin to avoid the severe impact to domestic industries caused by excessive import from China. Due to the condition of industry, I chose garment industry as a focus of my study and analysis. Since domestic garment industry involves more employed population compare to the other weak industry, government should consider more cautious when they set up rules of origin for garment industry in the future. By making the comparison for the rules of origin for garment industry in different free trade agreement, I tried to imitate the rules of origin for garment industry with some adjustment. In the last part, I made an interview with the researcher of Industrial Development Bureau to understand their opinion for the applicability of the rules of origin.