This thesis investigates some social factors that instigated Bengal’s peasants to revolt against theBritish colonial raj repeatedly. The majority of peasant rebellions of Bengal have been examinedfrom the view of political economy, where the general perspective is that peasants revolted becauseof economic exploitations by planters, landlords, and other classes. However, this study argues forextending beyond the political-economic view, and for the importance of also bringing in overallsocial conditions in the examination of peasant rebellions. From these perspectives, this studyexamines a single case, the Indigo rebellion of Bengal, in relation to colonial policy, institutionalarrangements and peasants’ social condition.Archival data, Indigo commission report of 1860, books, academic articles, political drama, etc.,have been used as data sources for the study. To get a personal experience of the indigo rebellion,I have traveled to some districts where the indigo rebellion occurred and discussed with thepeasants to find some oral history. By applying the case study research method, I have analyzedthe data with the thematic analysis method. Commercialization of agriculture, moral economy, andexpansion of the market economy theory has been applied to analyze the data.This study finds that colonial policy and institutional arrangement created conditions to exploit thepeasants’ labor and wealth. The first significant change brought in Bengal by colonial power wasthe change in land ownership. Because of the Permanent Settlement Act, land became a productof money-making in the colonial state. The second significant effect of colonial rule is the changeof agricultural mode of production. The study also shows the commercialization of agriculture thattransformed the traditional method of agriculture, shifted the entire ‘production risk’ on thepeasants’ shoulders, and created insecurity of peasants’ subsistence. Thus, this study indicates thatBengal’s peasants repeatedly revolted because of colonial institutional arrangements andextractive land, economic, social, and indigo production policies that made peasant life miserable

In this paper I am exploring why I am drawn to such labour intensive craft as weaving. In a wider perspective I ask what place slow craft has in our post industrial society. I try to find the meaning of slowness and monotonous work. I do this by repeatedly working with the circle as a motif in my weaves. By growing my own pigments to dye with I examine differ- ent kinds of slow processes. I investigate the meaning embedded in the finished weaves. I come to understand how I use weaving as a way of thinking.

Research was conducted on thirteen 100% cotton denim samples using an acid wash, established by Murray, to extract oligosaccharides from the cellulosic material. The oligosaccharide ion groups (+, +, and +) for molecules with degrees of polymerization between two and seven (DP2-DP7) were analyzed using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry with an electrospray ionization interface (LC-ESI-MS). The results were compared using the least-squares means in a Multivariate ANOVA (MANOVA) test followed by Univariate ANOVA and Tukey HSD tests and demonstrated that the method could correctly determine that two samples were statistically different 85.9% of the time when analyzing the amount (ng) of each of the oligosaccharide ion groups separately, and 82.0% when analyzing the total moles of monosaccharide units released. A dye extraction was performed on the denim materials and the extract analyzed using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Indigo dye was present in all of the denim samples except one. When these results were combined with the two oligosaccharide statistical analyses, the discriminating power was increased to 88.5% and 85.9%, respectively. Additional cellulosic materials were also investigated including four white 100% cotton t-shirts as well as five raw cotton samples grown in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Egypt, Iran, and Benin West Africa. The analytical methodology gave results for the white cotton t-shirts and raw cotton samples that were inconsistent with those obtained from the denim samples.

Concerns about the environmental impact of the textile industry are increasing, and there is an urgent need to develop and implement sustainable technologies. In particular, the environmental impact of dyeing, which emits a large amount of wastewater and chemicals, is one production process that needs to be resolved. Dyeing using supercritical carbon dioxide is attracting attention as a technology that uses carbon dioxide as a solvent instead of water and eliminates liquid waste from the process. It is a development that allows dyeing to be carried out with less energy and a lower environmental impact. In this study, the experiment was done on the application of this supercritical carbon dioxide technology to the dyeing of natural indigo cotton. The aim of study is contribution to the development of dyeing methods with less environmental impact. Natural indigo has the hydrophobicity and non polar which might be compatible scCO2 dyeing, a sustainable and biodegradable dye, offers eco-friendly advantages and poses no harm to humans. In contrast, synthetic indigo raises concerns about waste generation and environmental persistence. It is suggested that the possibility of natural indigo in renewable raw materials could be used to create eco-experiences not only in the textile industry but also in new areas, such as in coatings, design and biodegradable products. The experimental results showed that dyed cotton fabric using supercritical carbon dioxide as a solvent but small coloration and polyethylene glycol as a swelling agent improved dyeability, but mathematical describing was still small. Swelling agent can support the dye penetration into cotton fabric for better coloration. Changes in dyeability were also observed by increasing the process parameters. In the future, it is hoped that the technology can be scaled up to the industrial level and contribute to reducing the environmental impact of the dyeing of denim, a product that has a significant impact on the market, and to reducing the environmental impact and water scarcity of the textile industry as a whole.

The southeastern United States is a global biodiversity hotspot but has experienced severe declines of natural ecosystems. The southeast is currently facing widespread change, particularly from an increasing human population and climate change, that is likely to impact all remaining natural areas to some degree. In this work, I examine some of the challenges currently facing imperiled species of reptiles and amphibians in this region. The work is focused on two species, the Reticulated Flatwoods Salamander (Ambystoma bishopi) and the Eastern Indigo Snake (Drymarchon couperi) both of which are listed on the U.S. Endangered Species List. Chapter 1 used Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) data to measure wetland bathymetry (basin shape) in flatwoods salamander breeding wetlands. Bathymetry data were used to construct stage–area relationships for each wetland, and a history of water level monitoring data were applied to these relationships to build multi-year time series of flooded area metrics. These metrics were then combined with an assessment of vegetation characteristics to map potentially suitable habitat for flatwoods salamander breeding within each wetland. Chapter 2 focused on flatwoods salamander phenology (the timing of life history events) in response to climate change. I quantified flatwoods salamander movements into and out of breeding wetlands over a 10-year period (2010–2020), identifying temperature and precipitation patterns that were conducive to salamander movements. I then used future climate projections to forecast movement opportunities for flatwoods salamander from 2030–2099 and used an existing hydrologic model built on the same climate data to understand how phenology may interact with hydrology. Overall, only a small number of years are likely to have an ideal intersection of phenology and hydrology as has been observed during recent breeding seasons. Chapter 3 described the construction of a stochastic Integral Projection Model for flatwoods salamanders. I integrated the projections from Chapter 2 with the population model to estimate the viability of two flatwoods salamander populations from 2030–2099 under multiple climate change scenarios. The results indicated that approximately half of the examined scenarios resulted in a high probability (>0.5) of extinction when considering both wetland hydrology and salamander phenology. In Chapter 4, I described the creation of a stochastic Integral Projection Model for indigo snakes. I then demonstrated the utility of this model by examining the effects of initial population size, road density, and removal of individuals to support a captive colony on indigo snake populations. I found that high road densities and high collection rates would likely lead to population declines, although the rate of declines and extinction risk varied across scenarios. Taken together, these projects highlight some of the challenges currently facing herpetofauna in the southeastern United States, demonstrate the difficulty in conserving these often-overlooked species, and provide useful tools for ongoing conservation efforts focusing on these two imperiled species. / Doctor of Philosophy / We are in the midst of a global biodiversity crisis, with rates of species extinction far exceeding normal levels. Species loss is largely driven by global change attributable to human activities. A rapidly changing world can make it challenging to effectively conserve and manage imperiled species. In this work, I studied two species found only in the southeastern United States that are listed on the U.S. Endangered Species List. Chapters 1–3 focused on the Reticulated Flatwoods Salamander (Ambystoma bishopi), while Chapter 4 focused on the Eastern Indigo Snake (Drymarchon couperi). In Chapter 1, I used high resolution elevation data to map the shape of flatwoods salamander breeding wetlands. These data were then used to estimate flooded areas across multiple years. Flooded area metrics were combined with vegetation measurements to map potential flatwoods salamander breeding habitat. In Chapter 2, I examined how flatwoods salamander movements may respond to climate change. I identified time periods and weather conditions that coincided with flatwoods salamander movements into and out of breeding wetlands. I then projected potential movement opportunities based on multiple future climate scenarios for each breeding season from 2030–2099. My results showed that few years are likely to be ideal for flatwoods salamander reproduction, which is similar to trends observed in recent years. In Chapter 3, I built a population model for flatwoods salamanders. I then combined the model with predictions made in Chapter 2 to estimate the probability that populations would go extinct by the end of the century. The results indicated that the two flatwoods salamander populations examined had a high probability (>0.5) of extinction in about 50% of the climate scenarios. In Chapter 4, I constructed a population model for indigo snakes using a variety of available data. I used this model to examine the effects of road density, initial population size, and removal of individuals to support a captive colony on indigo snake populations. The results suggested that populations experiencing high road densities or high collection rates were likely to decline over time. These projects highlight some of the difficulties in conserving often-overlooked reptiles and amphibians in the southeastern United States and provide important tools for ongoing conservation projects working with these two imperiled species.

Ce manuscrit est consacré à l'étude et au développement de microsystèmes capteurs de gaz sélectifs au dioxyde d'azote, destinés au contrôle de la qualité de l'air atmosphérique. La stratégie que nous avons développée consiste à associer une structure sensible à base de matériaux semi-conducteurs partiellement sélectifs aux gaz oxydants et des filtres sélectifs à l'ozone. L'objectif premier est la mise en oeuvre et la caractérisation de matériaux chimiques strictement imperméables à l'ozone (O3) et non-réactifs vis-à-vis du dioxyde d'azote (NO2). Notre choix s'est focalisé sur un matériau moléculaire, l'indigo, connu pour sa réactivité vis-à-vis de O3, et plusieurs nanomatériaux carbonés. Pour ces derniers, la possibilité de conformer leurs textures, leurs morphologies et leurs chimies de surface par traitements thermiques, chimiques et mécaniques, permet d'étendre le panel de matériaux potentiels et d'identifier les facteurs d'influence de leur réactivité avec les espèces gazeuses. La caractérisation de l'ensemble de ces matériaux a nécessité l'utilisation de techniques adaptées et complémentaires (adsorption de N2 à 77 K, spectroscopies Raman, XPS, IR en mode ATR, RPE et NEXAFS). Les filtres chimiques les plus efficaces (hauts rendements de filtration et grande durabilité) ont été sélectionnés d'après des tests de soumission aux gaz selon une méthodologie adaptée. Enfin, l'association de ces meilleurs filtres et de la structure capteur a conduit à l'élaboration de prototypes microsystèmes capteurs de gaz optimisés. De plus, une contribution à la compréhension des mécanismes d'interaction de l'indigo et de certains nanocarbones avec O3 et NO2 a aussi permis d'améliorer le microsystème en développant des méthodologies pertinentes et innovantes mais également en réalisant la synthèse de nouveaux filtres indigo / nanocarbone.

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This work examines sustainable functions for another workwear. It argues fora culture shift within many fields: private, politically, global, local as well as infashion. The background is earth and human beings current situation whichneeds to be changed in order to create a sustainable living. This is understoodin the ecological, sociocultural and economical sustainable model and contextualixedfor agricultural workwear.The issue of construction methods in workwear is examined and understoodin relationship to the non-rationale and aesthetical function; the need to workand the need to dwell.New ideas of rationale function workwear is proposed which argues for theneed of a greater look upon sustainability and non-rationale ideas within thefield of current workwear.This includes:1. Construction methods for a. Greater movement, b. Fewer stretch pointswithin garments and c. Advanced vs. simplicity.2. Aesthetic forms exploring a. Aesthetic as sustainable, b.The two natures ofworking and dwelling spoken is terms of construction and empty space, c.Different cultures of old and new.3. Material: a. sustainable raw fibers as organic Hemp and Cotton b. Secondhand material as deadstock, surplus and waste, c. Performing materials fordifferent occasions4.Colour and structure: a. Bio-organic natural Indigo dyeing vats, b. Dyeingwith natural dyes as Madder, Brazil Wood and Acorns on cellulose basedmaterial, c. D.I.Y coating with Beewax, Flax Oil and Parafine, d. The spectrumof new/clean and patina of age/worn.which all are used as expressive research tools to understand different perspectivesof sustainable function for another workwear within a culture shift;the background of the past, the beauty of life and finally proposals for a futureseen as the ecological age. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

The objective of this study is to develop a membrane-based generic treatment scheme for wastewaters of indigo dyeing process of denim industry, based on water reuse. For this purpose, firstly the performances of microfiltration (MF), coagulation, and ultrafiltration (UF) processes were evaluated as pretreatment alternatives and the best pretreatment alternatives appeared to be single stage 5 &micro / m MF and sequential 5 &micro / m MF followed by 100 kDa UF providing high permeation rate and high color retention. These two pretreatment alternatives were compared based on the performance of nanofiltration (NF) using NF 270 membrane, and the best pretreatment process was evaluated as 5 &micro / m MF that provided 87-92% color and 10% chemical oxygen demand (COD) retention. After the pretreatment tests, three different NF (NF 270, NF 90, Dow Filmtec, USA and NF 99, Alfa Laval, Denmark) and two different reverse osmosis (RO) membranes (HR 98 PP and CA 995 PE, Alfa Laval, Denmark) were tested to produce reusable water. Permeate COD and color performances of the tested NF and RO membranes were similar and satisfactory in meeting the relevant reuse criteria, while permeate conductivity was satisfactory only for HR 98 PP RO membrane and for NF 90 membrane. On the other hand, NF 270 membrane was superior to the other membranes in terms of permeation rate. For NF 270 membrane / cumulative color, COD and conductivity retentions were found to be 93 %, 92 %, and 60 %, respectively. When the developed process chain (5&micro / m MF+ NF 270) was also tested for a dilute indigo dyeing wastewater, it was found out that the developed scheme works similarly and is generic for indigo dyeing wastewaters.

In the present study, the recovery of the indigo dyeing rinsing wastewater originating from a denim textile mill to the degree of reuse quality, which generally requires nanofiltration (NF), was investigated. In order to control flux decline and hence to maintain an efficient NF / coagulation, microfiltration (MF) and sequential MF plus ultrafiltration (UF) pretreatment process alternatives were tested. All pretreatment alternatives were optimized to reduce chemical oxygen demand (COD) and color load to NF. Coagulation process was investigated using the coagulants, aluminum sulfate (Al2(SO4)3.18H2O) and ferric chloride (FeCl3.6H2O) by running a series of jar tests. The results showed that coagulation process did not provide an effective and efficient pretreatment due to high dose of coagulant requirement. MF tests run by using 0.45, 2.5 and, 8 &micro / m membranes indicated that MF through 0.45 &micro / m pore-sized membrane is the best process providing 64% color and 29% COD removals, leading to a color value of 2493 Pt-Co and COD of 892 mg /L in the permeate. Application of sequential MF+UF filtration provided a significant benefit over single MF in terms of rejections and also permeate flux. UF applied after MF provided additional 62% color and 4% COD removals leading to 960 Pt-Co color and 856 mg/L COD. NF tests conducted using pretreated wastewater via single MF and sequential MF+UF indicated that single MF is the best pretreatment to NF and this treatment scheme provided 99% color, 97% COD and 80 % conductivity removals and satisfied reuse criteria.