Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2016-06-14T11:29:23Z No. of bitstreams: 1 taimarapolidoroferreira.pdf: 1182886 bytes, checksum: a5d4b3b0f39cb3072c8ac7463931f8e7 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2016-07-13T14:03:33Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 taimarapolidoroferreira.pdf: 1182886 bytes, checksum: a5d4b3b0f39cb3072c8ac7463931f8e7 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-07-13T14:03:33Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 taimarapolidoroferreira.pdf: 1182886 bytes, checksum: a5d4b3b0f39cb3072c8ac7463931f8e7 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-02-25 / CAPES - Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / A análise de metais em diversos tipos de amostras, já é algo bem descrito na literatura utilizando a espectrometria de absorção atômica, que é a técnica mais popular para este tipo de análise, entretanto o desenvolvimento de técnicas eletroanalíticas para a análise de metais é algo que vem crescendo nos últimos anos. As técnicas eletroanalíticas apresentam as vantagens de conseguirem determinar baixas concentrações de metais, permitirem a determinação simultânea destes e ainda possuírem um baixo custo se comparada à técnicas espectrométricas. Devido ao aumento da preocupação da qualidade dos metais para a confecção de bijuterias, a análise de metais se torna extremamente importante uma vez que altas concentrações desses metais no organismo, em especial metais tóxicos como cádmio e chumbo, podem trazer malefícios irreversíveis para a saúde. Neste contexto, o objetivo do trabalho foi analisar cádmio e chumbo em amostras de bijuterias por voltametria de pulso diferencial (VPD) com etapa de pré-concentração e comparar com as análises por espectrometria de absorção atômica com chama (F AAS). Os parâmetros utilizados para a análise por voltametria de pulso diferencial foram: o potencial de deposição de -0,9 V com duração de 120 s e a faixa de potencial de -0,9 a 0,1 V. Dois tipos de digestão para as amostras foram testadas, em chapa de aquecimento e em um equipamento de micro-ondas, e após as digestões, as amostras foram analisadas pelas duas técnicas. A digestão por micro-ondas se mostrou mais adequada, assim como as análises por voltametria que apresentaram boa exatidão, que foi avaliada através de estudos de adição e recuperação, com resultados entre 99 a 110% para o cádmio e 99 a 105% para o chumbo. As amostras de bijuterias analisadas pela VPD e digeridas por micro-ondas continham de < LD a 4,05 % m/m de cádmio e de 0,004 a 7,55 % m/m de chumbo. Os limites de detecção foram de 0,75 mg L-1 para o cádmio e de 0,07 mg L-1 para o chumbo para a técnica de absorção atômica e os limites de detecção para a voltametria foram de 0,02 mg L-1 para o cádmio, e de 2,26.10-3 mg L-1 para o chumbo. / The metal analysis of various types of samples, using atomic absorption spectrometry, is well described in the literature. It is the most popular technique for this type of analysis; however the development of electroanalytical techniques for the analysis of metals has been growing in recent years. The electroanalytical techniques have the advantages of be able to determine low concentrations of metals, allow the simultaneous determination of these and have low cost compared to spectrometric techniques. Due to the increased concern for quality of metals for the manufacture of jewelry, the metal analysis is extremely important since high concentrations of these metals in the body, in particular toxic metals such as cadmium and lead can bring irreversible harm to health. In this context, the aim of this study was to analyse cadmium and lead in jewelry samples by differential pulse voltammetry (DPV) with pre-concentration step and compare the results with atomic absorption spectrometry with flame (F AAS). The parameters used for the analysis by differential pulse voltammetry were: deposition potential = -0.9 V, deposition time = 120 s and the potential range from -0.9 to 0.1 V. Two types of samples digestion were tested: hot plate and microwave equipment. After digestions, the samples were analyzed by both techniques (DPV and F AAS). Digestion by microwave proved most suitable, as well as voltammetry results that showed good accuracy, which was evaluated by adding and recovery studies with results from 99 to 110% for cadmium and 99 to 105% for lead. Samples of jewelry and analysed by the DPV digested microwave contained the <LOD to 4.05 % w / w cadmium and 0.004 to 7.55 % w / w of lead. The limits of detection were 0.75 mg L-1 for cadmium and 0.07 mg L-1 for lead for atomic absorption technique and limits of detection for voltammetry was 0.02 mg L-1 for cadmium, and 2.26.10-3 mg L-1 for lead.

[pt] Esta pesquisa pretende contribuir com o mercado joalheiro apresentando aspectos importantes e limitações do uso de materiais não convencionais na joalheria. Atualmente diferentes materiais são acrescentados à joalheria, como o plástico, madeira, resina entre outros. O estudo tem por objetivo analisar os aspectos ecológicos que norteiam as decisões de compra e a percepção do consumidor deste tipo de jóia. O que especifica uma jóia não é mais o conjunto de materiais intrínsecos mas a capacidade criativa do seu autor na concepção e resolução de sua idéia agregando valores além do valor monetário. Para avaliar esta situação, realizou-se uma pesquisa com profissionais e consumidores do produto em questão, procurando identificar os significados e conceitos atuais que rodeiam este mercado. Esses valores e significados podem ser atribuídos pelo design e um deles é o valor ecológico, que será um dos focos desta dissertação. / [en] This research intends to contribute with the jewelry market presenting some important aspects and limitations of the use of non conventional materials in jewelry. Nowadays, some alternative materials are added in jewelry making such as plastic, wood, resin, etc. This work aims to analyze some of the ecological aspects that influences purchase decision and the consumer´s perception of this sort of jewel. A jewel is no longer defined by the usage of certain groups of material but by the author´s creativity in conceiving the idea. That contributes to increase the earned-value of the product - which is beyond the monetary value. To analyze this scenario, a survey was conducted - with professionals and consumers of these products - in order to identify the meanings and the current concepts that encircle this market. These values and meanings can be expressed by the design and one of them is the ecological value - which is one of this dissertation´s focus.

[pt] As tecnologias de modelagem 3D e a prototipagem rápida começam a ser muito utilizadas pelas grandes indústrias do setor joalheiro brasileiro. Porém, a reatividade do setor joalheiro brasileiro prejudica a inovação do design de produto para o mercado. Buscando entender como a introdução destas duas tecnologias influencia e transforma o processo de design de joias, esta dissertação tem como objetivo avaliar as inovações que a modelagem 3D e a prototipagem rápida trazem para as empresas e os designers de joias que fazem uso dessas tecnologias. Através de pesquisa bibliográfica e de uma pesquisa-ação - dividida entre entrevistas com profissionais que fazem uso há mais de dois anos das duas tecnologias e uma pesquisa empírica da introdução dessas tecnologias pela equipe de pesquisadores do Projeto INOTEC em parceria com designer de cinco empresas do setor de joias e afins carioca - procurou-se um entendimento das principais vantagens e desvantagens que a difusão destas duas tecnologias podem trazer para o setor. / [en] The technologies of 3D modeling and rapid prototyping are beginning to be widely used by the biggest industries of the Brazilian jewelry sector. However, the reactivity of this sector affects the search for product design innovations. Seeking to understand how the introduction of these technologies and processes influence the process of jewelry design, this dissertation aims to evaluate the innovations that 3D modeling and rapid prototyping bring to the industries and the jewelry designers who uses these technologies. Through literature review and action-research - divided in interviews with professionals who had worked with the technologies for more than two years and an empirical research of the introduction of these technologies by the team of researchers from the project INOTEC in partnership with five designers from jewelry and related companies from Rio de Janeiro – this dissertation sought an understanding of the main advantages and disadvantages that the diffusion of these technologies can bring to the jewelry sector.

The study begins by examining economic, political, and social conditions in Tsarist Russia that prompted the Zale family to immigrate to the United States. They eventually settled in Texas where, as a boy, Morris Zale was introduced to the jewelry business. In his first store in Wichita Falls Zale developed the idea of mass marketing his merchandise, and in order to do so he offered credit to his customers. He also made extensive use of advertising. Both of those approaches were revolutionary in the retail jewelry industry. This study examines various methods used by Zale's to expand its holdings. In addition, attention is given to Zale's diversification in the late 1960's and early 1970's. Emphasis is given in the study to Zale's development of a vertically integrated structure. By purchasing diamonds directly from the Diamond Trading Company, Zale's has been able to process the stones at each stage—cutting, polishing, mounting, and marketing. Such an arrangement eliminated middlemen at each step, permitting Zale's to reduce markups and margins and still maintain necessary profit levels. This study examines several serious adversities that have confronted the company—racial and religious prejudice, the Depression, shortages brought on by World War II, potential competition from a synthetic diamond, and an internal scandal involving Zale's chief financial officer. In each case Zale's managed to emerge from the adversity stronger than it had been previously. From the outset Zale's objective has been to sell the greatest amount of jewelry to the greatest number of people at the lowest possible price, and this study indicates how successful the company has been in reaching that goal.

Par un corpus de bijoux allant des années 1960 à nos jours examiné selon la méthode de la théorie de la médiation, la thèse se fixe un triple objectif. Le premier ambitionne de construire une anthropologie de l’ornement par le détour de la sociologie et l’exploitation du modèle instituant/institué (première partie) qui permet de faire émerger la nature expérimentale de ces ouvrages, ainsi que leur prise de distance avec l’investiture de la personne. Le deuxième objectif vise à analyser ce matériel très spécifique selon le modèle fabriquant/fabriqué, afin de décomposer la nature des expérimentations difficiles à étudier dans un cadre traditionnel. Le troisième objectif s’attache à manifester l’unité de la recherche par la mise en lumière d’une similitude de mécanismes avec les arts contemporains (vêtement, mobilier, art), faisant état d’une communauté de projet et d’un phénomène généralisé (deuxième et troisième parties). Ce bijou importable socialement développe une invraisemblable technique, ceci en accord avec l’incommensurable de l’art contemporain. / Using a corpus of jewelry from the 1960’s to nowadays, analysed through the Theory of Mediation method, the thesis has three objectives. The first one aims at building an anthropology of jewelery through the detour of sociology, using the Instituant/Institué model (first part), which helps understanding the experimental nature of these ornaments, far away from the traditional investiture of the person. The second objective is to analyse these very specific jewels using the Fabriquant/Fabriqué model (second and third parts), as studying how the nature of these experiments is broken down is indeed too difficult to do in a traditional manner. The third objective is to show the unity of the research by highlighting a similarity with the mechanisms of contemporary arts (clothing, design, furniture, art), indicating a community of projects and therefore a global and widespread phenomenon (second and third parts). These socially unwearable jewels develop unlikely techniques, in line with the unlimited world of contemporary art.

By the findings of this research, the gradual diminish of the guasqueiro role (craftsmen who use rowhide as the main raw material), activity which was developed with the formation of the gaucho people. The present work aims to study and highlight the formal aspects of the rawhide, transfering its cultural and esthetic values for the jewelry, using native gemstone from Rio Grande do Sul, promoting the rescue and valorization of this cultural and material patrimony. At the same time it is established a new proposal, the community is motivated to take back values form past, perpetuing its original activity. It is wanted to improve the professional, practical ans theoretical knowledge, contributing to the development of new research. / Pela constatação, através de pesquisa, da gradual diminuição do ofício de guasqueiro (artesãos que usam como principal matéria prima o couro cru), atividade que se desenvolveu junto à formação do povo gaúcho. O presente trabalho pretende estudar e colocar em evidência os aspectos formais dos utensílios de couro cru, transferindo os seus valores culturais e estéticos para a joalheria, utilizando gemas nativas do Rio Grande do Sul, promovendo a retomada e valorização desse patrimônio cultural e material. Ao mesmo tempo em que se estabelece uma nova proposta, incentiva-se a comunidade a retomar os valores do passado, perpetuando sua atividade de origem. Deseja-se, então, aprimorar o saber profissional, prático e teórico, contribuindo para o desenvolvimento de novas pesquisas.

This paper addresses a design exploration focusing on interactive jewelry conducted with newcome LGBT+ immigrants in Sweden, leading to a necklace named PoWo that is “powered” by the spoken word through a mobile application that reacts to customizable keywords triggering LED-lights in the necklace. Interactive jewelry is in this paper viewed as a medium with a simultaneous relation to wearer and spectator thus affording use on the themes of symbolism, emotion, body and communication. These themes are demonstrated through specific use scenarios of the necklace relating to the participants of the design exploration e.g. addressing consent, societal issues, meeting situations and expressions of love and sexuality.  The potential of speech based interactive jewelry is investigated in this paper e.g. finding speech recognition in LED-jewelry to act as an amplifier of spoken words, actions and meaning; and as a visible extension of the smartphone and human body. In addition use qualities of visibility, ambiguity, continuity and fluency are discussed in relation to speech based LED-jewelry.

El presente trabajo de investigación trata sobre la constitución de una empresa dedicado a producir y exportar joyas de plata Ley 950 y 925 con aplicaciones de piedras naturales con destino a Chile. El nombre de la empresa del proyecto es “JOYERIA BARI E.I.R.L.” que llevará el nombre de la marca JOLIBARI desde el inicio de las operaciones. Ambos se encuentran disponibles para el registro en las respectivas instituciones. / Trabajo de investigación

Materiais naturais são aplicados com restrições na joalheria por serem facilmente degradados e alterarem suas características estéticas em função das condições do ambiente. O porongo é um fruto que possui forte ligação simbólica com a cultura gaúcha por ser utilizado como recipiente (cuia) para tomar o chimarrão. Na fabricação de cuias são utilizados cerca de 50% do fruto gerando um grande volume de resíduos no processo, passível de ser aplicado em produtos. Desse modo, a presente pesquisa objetiva estudar e aplicar métodos de tratamento para o porongo, a fim de viabilizar a utilização desse material natural no design de joias, visando manter sua integridade física e química. Nesse sentido, primeiramente, foi realizada a caracterização do porongo por meio de técnicas como microscopia eletrônica de varredura, microscopia estereoscópica, análise termogravimétrica e microtomografia computadorizada (Micro-CT). Além disso, foram estudadas técnicas de tratamento que visam à durabilidade, além de melhorar as propriedades físicas e mecânicas de outros materiais naturais como, por exemplo, a madeira. A partir da hipótese de que técnicas semelhantes poderiam obter sucesso se aplicadas ao porongo, devido às similaridades na composição e estrutura de ambos os materiais, foram selecionados e adaptados métodos de tratamento para o porongo. Os resultados de Micro-CT indicam que o porongo possui 54% de volume poroso, sendo que a grande maioria dos poros são conectados,configurando permeabilidade. Com isso, optou-se por impregnação polimérica como método de tratamento e foram ensaiadas três concentrações de soluções contendo: metilmetacrilato (MMA), metanol (MeOH) e peróxido de benzoíla (PBO), em três condições de impregnação: 30 min de vácuo + 30min de imersão, 30 min de vácuo + 24h de imersão e imersão simples. Os melhores resultados foram obtidos com 30 min de vácuo + 24h de imersão. Estatisticamente, as diferentes proporções de MMA/MeOH não influenciam nos níveis de impregnação. As amostras foram submetidas a ensaios de absorção de água para avaliar a impregnação, indicando que aquelas que continham mais material polimerizado, por consequência, absorveram menos água. Por fim, o porongo foi novamente analisado por microtomografia e teve sua porosidade reduzida de 54% para aproximadamente 39% indicando um método potencialmente eficiente para o tratamento do porongo, visando a aplicação no design de biojoias. / Natural materials are restrictivly applied on jewelry because they are easily degraded and change their aesthetic characteristics due to ambient conditions. The gourd is a fruit that has a symbolic link with the “gaúcho” culture because it is widely used as a container (“cuia”) to drink the “chimarrão”. In the manufacture process of “cuias” it is utilized about 50% of the fruit, generating a large volume of wastes, which can be applied in products of higher earned value. Thus, this research aims to study and implement methods for the gourd improvement to enable the use of this natural material in jewelry design, through improvements of its physical and chemical integrity, in order to valorize artifacts and customs of the “gaúcho” culture. Accordingly, first the gourd characterization is performed through techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, stereoscopic microscopy, thermal analysis and computed microtomography. Moreover, in the present research will be studied treatment techniques that seeks to prolong durability and improve the physical-mechanical properties of other natural materials, such as polymer impregnation of wood. Probably, this technique can be successfully applied to gourd due to similarities in the composition and structure of both materials. Based on the theoretical approach developed, improvement methods to the gourd will be selected and adapted. Furthermore, it will be presented some preliminary results of impregnation. The present research also foresees the design biojewels collection using gourd treated. From the hypothesis that similar techniques could be applied to succeed gourd, due to similarities in the composition and structure of both materials, methods of improvement to the gourd were selected and adapted. The Micro-CT results indicate that the gourd has 54% of porous volume, whereas the great majority of the pores are connected by configuring permeability. Thus, it was decided by impregnation polymer as a method of improvement and were tested three concentrations of solutions containing: methyl methacrylate (MMA), methanol (MeOH) and benzoyl peroxide (PBO) in three conditions impregnation: 30 min vacuum + 30min immersion, 30min vacuum + 30 min 24h of immersion and immersion simple. The best results were obtained at 30 minutes + vacuum 24h of immersion. Statistically, different proportions of MMA/MeOH do not influence the levels of impregnation. The samples were tested for water absorption to evaluate the impregnation, indicating that those containing more polymerized material, therefore, absorbed less water. Finally, the gourd was again analyzed by microtomography and its porosity was reduced from 54% to approximately 39% indicating a method for improvement of potentially efficient gourd.

The intent of this examination is to study anatomical jewelry design, withreproductions of the clitoris and uterus, its feminist connection and symbolism.Three Swedish female designers represent the foundation for this study, wheretheir specific jewelry is analyzed. Choice of designers are Clit co,Feministsmeden and Statement by Lann, a presentation of them can be found inthe second part on page 15. The main question in this study is; How come thewoman's body and genitals have become jewelry and how are these symbolslinked to feminism? Are these anatomical images inclusive or exclusive from agender perspective? The method in this survey focuses on semiotics and imageanalysis with inspiration from discourse analysis and hermeneutics, with atheory rooted in gender, feminism and exposition of the female body. Byfocusing on signification and intention, the study reaches a hypotheticalconclusion about the connection between anatomical jewelry and feminism. / Syftet med denna undersökning är att studera anatomisk smyckesdesign, med återgivningenav klitoris och livmodern, dess feministiska anknytning och symbolik. Tre svenska kvinnligadesigners står som material för studien, där deras specifika smycken analyseras. I del två avarbetet presenteras de utvalda kreatörerna Clit co, Feministsmeden och Statement by Lann.Huvudfrågan i denna studie är; Hur kommer det sig att kvinnans kropp och könsorgan harblivit smycken och hur är dessa symboler kopplade till feminism? Är dessa anatomiskaskildringar inkluderande eller exkluderande ur ett genusperspektiv? Metoden i studienfokuserar på semiotisk bildanalys med inspiration ur diskursanalys och hermeneutik, medteori förankrad i genus, feminism och kroppspolitik. Genom att fokusera på budskap ochintention når studien en hypotetisk slutsats kring sambandet mellan anatomiska smycken ochfeminism.