The value consumers attach to their clothing creates a high demand and frequent consumption of fast fashion. This results in the increase of post-consumer textile waste that ends up on landfills, which has a negative impact on the environment. This raises the critical issue of disposal methods and necessary education to create awareness and equip users to contribute to a circular economy that aims to extend the lifecycle of each garment. This study aims to design for the facilitation of a circular economy driven by post-consumer textile waste that encourages sustainable consumption. The short lifecycles of commercial interior due to the influence of societal taste results in the frequent alteration of these interiors, increasing building waste which has a negative environmental impact. This study explores how the lifecycle of an interior environment can be extended through the design principles derived from the design informants identified through the investigation of the theoretical framework, site, precedents, users and programme, and proposed brand. The result is the design of sustainable interior environments that encourages sustainable consumption. The design for multi-use programme allows for users to learn and contribute on various platforms to empower the local community and close the loop for fast fashion to generate a new fashion culture at 012 Central. Through the alteration of the identified interior environments the design intervention aims to reinvigorate the underutilised buildings at 012 Central to support a circular economy driven by post-consumer textile waste. The design intervention aims to provide an informative spatial experience that encourages interaction with space and object, empowering users to contribute to a circular economy driven by post-consumer textile waste. The technical resolution of the proposed design intervention is concerned with the design of sustainable interior environments and components that considers their environmental impact through a closed-loop design approach. / Mini Dissertation (MInt (Prof))--University of Pretoria, 2020. / Architecture / MInt (Prof) / Unrestricted

The textile industry is developing at a fast pace, and is constantly changing. It is constantly evolving new methods for recycling and further research is important for future needs. The ability to recycle a textile blended material is a step towards a more sustainable industry. There are however different difficulties around the various processes that have to be removed for recycling. The purpose of the study is to find methods for removing dyes from polyester and cotton blended textile waste for recycling. To investigate the subject, a literature study combined with interviews with experts was performed. The results of the study shows that it is possible to remove dye from cotton and polyester individually. To remove dye from cotton chlorine and hydrogen peroxide are used. Another method is to use a reducing agent hydrosulphite and after use together with lye. There are several ways to remove colour from polyester, although it will almost always have a residue of colour left. One can either melt the pigment into the fibre by using heat. Another method is to use chemicals which increase the amorphous areas in the fibres and the colour will be penetrated. Finally, when investigating a method for removing dye from a polyester and cotton textile blend. The study has highlighted the need of developing new methods without destroying the quality of the fibres. By this study it has been concluded removing dye from fibres are difficult but can be achieved with certain chemicals and processes. It is concluded in the study, removing dye from polyester and cotton individually can be succeed. However, removing colour from a blended fabric is rather difficult. The study has focus on discussing the difficulties when decolouring a blended textile.

Background: In recent years, the amount of textile waste increased rapidly due to the fast-fashion phenomena with an increasing clothing production and a declining customer usage. Not only that one truck of clothing getting landfilled or burned every second, but also the textile production impacts the environment due to the vast amount of water, material, chemical, and energy usage. This so-called linear “take-make-waste” approach contributes significantly to the current climate crisis. One possible solution represents the circular economy to encounter the linear approach by providing concepts for recovering materials. However, to our state of knowledge, the implementation of such Circular Economy (CE) approaches is far away from their urgent necessity. Literature papers from the last years conclude with a collaboration call between all industry actors for enhancing the waste recovery stream (WRS). Since digital platforms tackled the collaboration challenge of Circular Economy in other industries, we contemplated it as an adequate digital technology tool for overcoming Textile, Apparel and Clothing (TAC) industry collaboration challenge to further strengthening the WRS. Purpose: The study aims to investigate if and how digital platforms strengthen the TAC industry's WRS. For this purpose, we shed light on different challenges within the industry-wide network, analyzed current platform functionalities, and matched challenges and functionalities to answer the research question.  Method: The study adopts an inductive qualitative approach to explore the phenomenon of digital platforms and their potential as an enabler for the textile WRS. Thereby, we took a relativism view regarding our ontological position and followed a social constructionist's epistemology. For the data collection, we used semi-structured interviews and identified potential participants with criterion and snowball sampling. In total, we conducted 14-semistructured interviews with industry actors, platform providers, and experts. For our data analysis, we oriented ourselves on the Gioia Method, an articulated grounded theory approach. Conclusion: Resulting from our findings, we identified (1) four major challenge groups that go beyond the collaboration challenge and encompass the challenge of lack of knowledge, organization of WRS, and value chain structure. Further, we outlined (2) five platform functionalities, i.e., connecting, informing, visualizing, monitoring, and consulting. By matching challenges and functionalities, we analyzed (3) the extent to which DP can strengthen WR. We concluded that many industry challenges are tackled or partly tackled by the DP functionalities. However, within some of the sub-challenges as well as the overall challenge of the value chain structure, DPs reach their limitation in strengthening the WRS. In addition, we offer (4) an overall framework of DP for the WR stream, summarized how the DP tackles the industry-wide challenges by displaying the functionalities and associated value drivers. Lastly, we provide (5) the baseline for future platform functionalities by outlining actors’ expectations and platform providers’ planned functionalities arisen by our finding.

[pt] O objetivo deste trabalho foi o desenvolvimento de um produto a partir dos resíduos têxteis de confecção, em especial do tecido de viscose. O propósito do estudo é mostrar uma forma de reutilização de resíduos da confecção visando reduzir o tempo de descarte desse material. O trabalho buscou trazer uma alternativa que possibilitasse dar outra origem que não o descarte puro de restos de panos da confecção, produzindo papel tecido que será utilizado na própria confecção, como tags e caixas. Essa substituição pode levar à menor utilização de materiais de embalagens e diminuir a quantidade de lixo produzido em toda a cadeia de comercialização de roupas. O esforço desse estudo foi propor uma forma de reduzir a agressividade e a velocidade que os resíduos têxteis são gerados. Foi desenvolvido um produto a partir do resíduo da viscose como matéria prima, transformando lixo em papel de tecido fabricado a partir da releitura da técnica chinesa do século II d.C. a qual triturava trapos e galhos, levando a criação de produtos para uso papeleiro e com características próprias como cor de origem dos retalhos, boa maleabilidade, qualidade entre outros. Também foi realizada uma pesquisa sobre o potencial de decomposição desse papel de viscose no meio ambiente e como seria o seu processo de decomposição em diferentes tipos de superfície. Foi observado que os papéis de tecido se decompõem rapidamente, demonstrando inclusive melhor perda de material em comparação as tags comuns de papel produzidos pelas gráficas em geral. / [en] The objective of this work was the development of a product from textile waste, especially from viscose fabric. The purpose of the study is to show a way of reusing manufacturing waste in order to reduce the disposal time of this material. The work sought to bring an alternative that would make it possible to give another origin than the pure disposal of cloth leftovers from the confection, producing tissue paper that will be used in the confection itself, such as tags and boxes. This substitution can lead to less use of packaging materials and reduce the amount of waste produced throughout the clothing marketing chain. The effort of this study was to propose a way to reduce the aggressiveness and the speed at which textile waste is generated. A product was developed from viscose residue as a raw material, transforming waste into tissue paper made from the reinterpretation of the Chinese technique of the 2nd century AD. which shredded rags and twigs, leading to the creation of products for paper making and with their own characteristics such as the original colour of the patchwork, good malleability, quality, among others. Research was also carried out on the decomposition potential of this viscose paper in the environment and how its decomposition process would be on different types of surfaces. It was observed that tissue papers decompose quickly, even demonstrating better material loss compared to common paper tags produced by printers in general.

The decolorization of reactive dye-containing waste streams using oxidizing chemicals and the determination of the effect of the oxidizing agents on the subsequent biotreatment of the streams was investigated. Three oxidizing schemes were chosen for study: molecular ozone, base-promoted ozonation, and Fenton’s reagent (Fe²⁺ and H₂O₂). The ADMI color value of the solutions was used as the primary parameter for color comparison and dissolved organic carbon (DOC) removal was the measure of the effect of biodegradation. Three different waste streams from a textile dyeing facility were chosen: a Navy slack washer effluent from a pad-dyeing operation, a Navy dyebath effluent from a dyejet, and a Brilliant Blue dyejet effluent. Pure dye solutions were oxidized as well to determine the effect of interfering species in the waste streams. The results demonstrated that base-promoted ozonation was more effective than molecular ozone for the decolorization of the Navy slack washer effluent. In both cases the ADMI color value could be decreased by 82% but almost half as much ozone was necessary for the high pH trials. The high pH ozonation proved more effective for the Navy jet-dye effluent, as well, achieving a much lower color value with less ozone. Greater decolorization (96%) of the Navy jet-dye effluent was achieved by Fenton’s reagent than for either of the ozonation schemes. Ozonation of the Brilliant Blue jet-dye bath showed no dependence on pH and the color value of the solution was reduced could be 63%. The results indicate that the dyes were selectively oxidized by ozonation and the amount of ozone required for decolorization depended mainly the initial color of the dye waste stream. The amount of hydrogen peroxide required for Fenton’s reagent oxidation depended on the initial DOC of the dye waste stream. Oxidation of the wastewater streams proved to neither enhance nor hinder the operation of the biological reactors. The color removals by biological activity were minimal for both control and experimental reactors. Dissolved carbon removal was not enhanced by oxidative pretreatment. / Master of Science / incomplete_metadata

This dissertation describes the characterisation of, and development of a novel integrated waste management strategy for, hydroxide scouring effluents produced during cotton processing. Such effluents are typical of mineral salt-rich waste waters which are not significantly biodegradable in conventional treatment plants. The proposed strategy focuses on two complementary concepts: process-oriented waste minimisation adopts a systematic approach to identifying potential problems and solutions of waste reduction in the manufacturing process itself; while add-on controls reduce the impact of the waste after it has been generated, by recycling and treatment. The basic procedures for ensuring effective water and chemical management within the scouring process are described. Examples are given of factory surveys, which have resulted in significant chemical and water savings, reduced effluent discharge costs, maximum effluent concentration, and minimum pollutant loading and volume. Pilot-plant investigations demonstrate the technical and economic feasibility of a four stage treatment sequence of neutralisation (using carbon dioxide gas), cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical recovery to remove colour and impurities from the scouring effluent and produce directly reusable sodium hydroxide and water. Fouling and scaling of the cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical membranes are minimal and reversible if the operation is carried out under carefully selected conditions. A long anode coating life is predicted. Current efficiencies for the recovery of sodium hydroxide (up to 20 % concentration) are 70 to 80 % and the electrical power requirements are 3 500 to 4 000 kWh/tonne of 100 % NaOH. Pilot-plant trials are supplemented by extensive laboratory tests and semi-quantitative modelling to examine specific aspects of the nanofiltration and electrochemical stages in detail. Electromembrane fouling and cleaning techniques, and other anode materials are evaluated. The effects of solution speciation chemistry on the performance of the nanofiltration membrane is evaluated using a combination of speciation and membrane transport modelling and the predicted results are used to explain observed behaviour. Based on the results of pilot-plant trials and supplementary laboratory and theoretical work, a detailed design of an electrochemically-based treatment system and an economic analysis of the electrochemical recovery system are presented. The effects of rinsing variables, processing temperatures, and background rinse water concentrations on the plant size requirements and capital costs are determined. The implementation of the waste management concepts presented in this dissertation will have significant impact on water and sodium hydroxide consumption (decreasing these by up to 95 and 75 % respectively), as well as effluent volumes and pollutant loadings. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1994.

At present, raw aqueous textile effluent produced by textile mills in Hammarsdale, KwaZulu- Natal is reticulated voluntarily to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works owned by the eThekwini Municipality and operated by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. Thereafter the treated effluent is discharged into the Sterkspruit River which flows into the Shongweni impoundment. The cost to these textile mills of treating this effluent is calculated using a trade tariff formula administered by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. In principle this arrangement is governed as follows; • in the case of the textile mills, by Sewage Disposal Bylaws set by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation, and • in the case of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation by a licence issued by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in terms of the National Water Act 36 of 1998. This Act prescribes a General Effluent Standard which specifies the quantity, quality and temperature of treated effluent which may enter a defined water resource such as the Sterkspruit River. In practice however, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works is not licensed by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry and operates temporarily according to an Exemption Permit issued to Umgeni Water who owned and operated the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works until 2003. It is thus incumbent upon Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to obtain a licence from the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in order to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act and be allowed to operate the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works on a permanent basis. However, because of design limitations, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works cannot remove the visible colour continuously and reliably from incoming raw textile effluent. The consequence of this is that the Sterkspruit River is often contaminated by coloured discharges from the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works. In terms of the National Water Act this situation is illegal and must be remedied. The approach adopted by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation has been to amend the Sewage Disposal Bylaws to oblige the textile mills (by the use of permits), by certain dates, to remove all, or most of the colour (to specified levels according to the test method used) from their effluent before it will be admitted to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works for disposal. The costs of compliance will have to be borne by the individual textile mills. This business case study explores the impact of this obligation on the business of Textile Mill A and examines solutions to the problem. After a review of the efforts of that company to conform with the concept of Cleaner Production, it was decided to perform an end-of-pipe effluent treatment trial using a skid mounted pilot-plant utilising an adsorption and flocculation mechanism followed by cold soda ash softening, 'polishing' through a column of granular activated carbon and the removal of calcium and magnesium through a cation exchange softening column. The results obtained were; • that the permit requirements of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation could be met, • that a financial 'break-even' point could be achieved at the start of the project in 2005 should 43% of the treated effluent be recovered for reuse, • that a realistic rate of water recovery would be 50% resulting in a positive contribution in present day terms (2004) of R65 000 in 2005 increasing to Rl 377 000 in 2014, • that this rate of recovery could be increased should a demineraliser be introduced into the treatment train, and • that the project could be financed by a vendor on a Build, Own, Operate and Transfer basis with transfer of ownership to Textile Mill A occurring after 5 years. The results of that trial showed that end-of-pipe effluent treatment is a viable option, technically and commercially, for Textile Mill A considering the current inclement trading conditions being experienced by the South African textile industry. It is also a means of assisting Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act. / Thesis (M.B.A.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Pietermaritzburg, 2004.

Background: A sustainable economy becomes more and more important for most parts of the society. Especially the fashion industry is being criticized for wasting resources and being non-sustainable. Therefore, some textile producers started to implement programs that are aiming on a reuse of garments. Aims of research: The purpose of this research is to discover how customers can be motivated to return unwanted garments, also considering possible hindering factors. To gather this information it is necessary to build a theoretical framework with customer-based theories. The thesis explored how a second hand multi-brand retailer can take active action in encouraging customers to return unwanted textiles. Method: This research was conducted as an inductive qualitative research. The data was gathered through semi-structured interviews with several second hand retailers. The analysis was carried out following the Giogia method. Results: The thesis revealed that the garment disposal behavior is affected by various influences. Influences on the disposal behavior of garment consumers are personal values and believes. The dispose of unwanted garments is often influenced by an ease of handling and the same behavior is followed over the years simply because individuals are used to a certain garment disposal behavior. The largest hindering factors why customers do not return garments to retailers are caused by a lack of information as well as insufficient transparency. This behavior can be affected by second hand retailers by providing improved communication and a motivation to return garments by offering benefits for the customer. The size of the company does not play a major role.

Fashion and textile upcycling is currently considered a time-consuming and labour- intensive process. Since textile waste materials are not readily available as a secondary raw material, the process of sourcing pre- and post-consumer textile waste usually requires a lot of time and effort, and often results in a high inconsistency in input materials. In consequence, upcycling operations are generally difficult to scale up. In order to address this issue, this research study aims to explore the current sourcing process of secondary raw material as well as the opportunities and challenges this sourcing process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material. In order to serve the purpose of this research study, semi-structured interviews with experienced professionals from five small and medium-sized fashion and textile upcycling companies have been conducted. The empirical data collected through the semi-structured interviews was analysed using an inductive approach of qualitative content analysis. The overall findings suggest that concerning the sourcing process of post-consumer textiles for upcycling, the identified opportunities for a B2B trading platform outweigh the challenges. However, pre-consumer textile waste is often provided in the form of an already upcycled yarn from fabric or garment suppliers which gives the impression that a B2B trading platform is less relevant in this case. Nevertheless, the empirical results might have been impacted by the small sample size and the strong focus on post-consumer textiles. Therefore, more research is necessary in order to understand how SMEs working with pre-consumer textile waste source their input materials for upcycling and which opportunities and challenges this potentially different process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material.

MENDING ON DISPLAY is an exploration of how to involve people in mending and have it be incorporated into everyday life. This was done through mending workshops, investigative conversations and a window display exhibiting visibly mended clothes. With all the devastating news reporting on how the planet is rapidly changing for the worse, it’s important to show that there can be joy in striving towards sustainable solutions, and moving away from current fashion culture does not have to mean compromising on your personal expression. The two main collaborations in the project are with the people interacting with it, and the secondhand store Busfrö. For this type of workshop to engage people in mending it needs to regularly occur, a routine space where one can join in for example once a month in the same place. These places exist already but few know about them, we need more of these initiatives in different contexts in order to spread the engagement in the craft. In my work I invited others to join through workshops, but I also felt welcomed into a bigger context and community network where mending is the binding force.