<p>Coherent, large-scale shapes and patterns are evident in many landscapes, and evolve according to climate and hydrological forces. For large-scale, sandy coastlines, these shapes depend on wave climate forcing. The wave climate is influenced by storm patterns, which are expected to change with the warming climate, and the associated changes in coastline shape are likely to increase rates of shoreline change in many places. Humans have historically responded to coastline change by manipulating various coastal processes, consequently affecting long-term, large-scale coastline shape change. Especially in the context of changing climate forcing and increasing human presence on the coast, the interaction of the human and climate-driven components of large-scale coastline evolution are becoming increasingly intertwined. </p><p>This dissertation explores how climate shapes coastlines, and how the effects of humans altering the landscape interact with the effects of a changing climate. Because the coastline is a spatially extended, nonlinear system, I use a simple numerical modeling approach to gain a basic theoretical understanding of its dynamics, incorporating simplified representations of the human components of coastline change in a previously developed model for the physical system. </p><p>Chapter 1 addresses how local shoreline stabilization affects the large scale morphology of a cuspate-cape type of coastline, and associated large-scale patterns of shoreline change, in the context of changing wave climate, comparing two fundamentally different approaches to shoreline stabilization: beach nourishment (in which sediment is added to a coastline at a long-term rate that counteracts the background erosion), and hard structures (including seawalls and groynes). The results show that although both approaches have surprisingly long-range effects with spatially heterogeneous distributions, the pattern of shoreline changes attributable to a single local stabilization effort contrast greatly, with nourishment producing less erosion when the stabilization-related shoreline change is summed alongshore. </p><p>Chapter 2 presents new basic understanding of the dynamics that produce a contrasting coastline type: convex headland-spit systems. Results show that the coastline shapes and spatially-uniform erosion rates emerge from two way influences between the headland and spit components, and how these interactions are mediated by wave climate, and the alongshore scale of the system. Chapter 2 also shows that one type of wave-climate change (altering the proportion of `high-angle' waves) leads to changes in coastline shape, while another type (altering wave-climate asymmetry) tends to reorient a coastline while preserving its shape. </p><p>Chapter 3 builds on chapter 2, by adding the effects of human shoreline stabilization along such a convex coastline. Results show that in the context of increasing costs for stabilization, abandonment of shoreline stabilization at one location triggers a cascade of abandonments and associated coastline-shape changes, and that both the qualitative spatial patterns and alongshore speed of the propagating cascades depends on the relationship between patterns of economic heterogeneity and the asymmetry of the wave-climate change--although alterations to the proportion of high-angle waves in the climate only affects the time scales for coupled morphologic/economic cascades.</p> / Dissertation

Le littoral méditerranéen oriental du Maroc compris entre l’oued Kiss et le Cap des Trois Fourches s’étire sur près de 120 km. Ce littoral, objet de notre étude, est caractérisé par des unités morphologiques variées : embouchure, baies, lagune, plages, flèches sableuses, tombolo, falaises (vives et mortes). C’est une zone particulièrement intéressante pour l’étude et la compréhension de l’influence des processus naturels et anthropiques sur la dynamique sédimentaire. L’augmentation des activités industrielles et l’urbanisation croissante ont conduit ces dernières années à la construction de nombreux ouvrages le long de la côte, conduisant à des modifications dans la distribution des sédiments et à une dégradation de l’environnement naturel de certaines plages. L’étude sédimentologique couplée à l’analyse des photos aériennes de plusieurs missions a permis de caractériser les différents environnements de ce littoral, de reconstituer la dynamique des différents environnements sédimentaires et de souligner les facteurs, les processus hydrologiques et hydrographiques qui contrôlent ce littoral méditerranéen. Les analyses minéralogiques, en particulier l’étude des minéraux lourds, nous ont fourni des indications sur l’origine des sédiments, la nature du bassin versant fournisseur, également ont permis de mettre évidence deux secteurs morphosédimentaires de part et d’autre de l’embouchure de la Moulouya. Á l’Est, on trouve un secteur en démaigrissement et un secteur en accrétion est situé dans la partie Ouest de l’embouchure de la Moulouya. L'évolution morphodynamique de chacun de ces deux secteurs résulte des interactions entre les facteurs naturels et l’impact des aménagements réalisés sur cette portion de littoral / The Eastern Mediterranean coastline of Morocco ranging between Kiss and the Cap of the Three Fourches is stretched along nearly 120 km. This littoral, the object of our study, is characterized by varied morphological units: mouth, bays, lagoon, beaches, sand, tombolo, cliffs (formed and dead). It is a particularly interesting zone for the study and the comprehension of the influence of the natural and anthropic processes and sedimentary dynamics. During the last few years the increase in the industrial activities and the increasing urbanization led to the construction of many works along the coast, leading to modifications in the distribution of the sediments and to a degradation of the natural environment of certain beaches. The sedimentological study coupled with the analysis of aerial photographs (of several missions) made it possible to characterize the various environments of this littoral, to reconstitute the dynamics of the various sedimentary environments and to underline the factors, the hydrological and hydrographic processes which control this Mediterranean coastline. The mineralogical analysis, the study of heavy minerals in particular, provided indications on the origin of the sediments, the nature of the catchment supplier area and made it possible to put two morphosedimentary sectors obvious on both sides of the mouth of Moulouya. The morphodynamic evolution of each one of these two sectors results from the interactions between the natural factors and the impact from the installations carried out on this portion from littoral

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento CientÃfico e TecnolÃgico / A imagem turÃstica tem significativo papel na divulgaÃÃo de destinaÃÃes e sua elaboraÃÃo à utilizada como importante instrumento de propaganda polÃtica cearense. Para a propagaÃÃo dessas imagens, sÃo utilizados os mais diferentes suportes de comunicaÃÃo: folders, brochuras, vÃdeos, revistas nacionais e internacionais, entre outros. As imagens e a publicidade que acompanham essa perspectiva sÃo representativas da invenÃÃo de cidades como destinos turÃsticos, traduzidos em nova utilizaÃÃo desses lugares e da natureza, transformados em mercadorias para fins de seduÃÃo turÃstica. Nesse contexto, o presente trabalho trata da utilizaÃÃo de suportes promocionais institucionais como divulgadores da propaganda polÃtica estadual, alcanÃando difusÃo tanto nacional quanto internacional. à objetivo deste trabalho analisar a elaboraÃÃo da imagem turÃstica cearense, procurando identificar o aparato polÃtico-ideolÃgico governamental local que vem usufruindo dessa imagem. Dessa forma, a anÃlise baseia-se em literatura geral e especÃfica, nos relatÃrios de pesquisa da Secretaria de Turismo do Cearà (SETUR) e, principalmente, nas peÃas promocionais institucionais produzidas por este ÃrgÃo. Por conseguinte, o presente trabalho constata que as imagens do CearÃ, veiculadas, nÃo destacam apenas as belezas naturais, mas tambÃm as realizaÃÃes (obras pÃblicas, infra-estrutura, etc.), os Ãxitos e conquistas dos governantes locais, a partir do âGoverno das MudanÃasâ, sendo por isto transformada em propaganda polÃtica para eles. / The tourist image has a significant paper in the popularization of destinations and his/her elaboration has been used as important instrument of from Cearà political propaganda. For the propagation of those images the most different communication means are used: folders, brochures, videos, national and international magazines, among others. In that context, the present work treats of the use of supports institutional promotings as divulgers of the state political propaganda reaching diffusion so much national as international. In that way, the analysis bases on general and specific literature, in the reports of research of the General office of Tourism of Cearà (SETUR) and mainly in the materials institutional promotings produced by this organ. Consequently, the pres ent work verifies that the images that are transmitted of Cearà don't just detach the natural beauties of the State, but also the accomplishments (public works, infrastructure, etc.), the successes and the local rulers' conquests, starting from the "governo das mudanÃas" (government of the changes), being for this transformed in political propaganda for the same ones.

Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo discutir o processo de produção do espaço litorâneo a partir da espacialização e regionalização dos meios de hospedagem, procurando identificar as diferentes tipologias presentes, bem como a sua incidência ao longo dos 275 municípios litorâneos, do Amapá ao Rio Grande do Sul. São estudadas e inventariadas as segundas residências, as redes hoteleiras nacionais e internacionais, os resorts e os empreendimentos turísticos imobiliários, frutos da associação entre segundas residências e resorts. A intenção, além de verificar a espacialização de tais empreendimentos, é compreender a participação do capital internacional neste processo de produção. Para tanto, parte-se da premissa da existência de circuitos de transferência de capital para o ambiente construído e da associação de agentes imobiliários locais com o capital estrangeiro que, avalizados por políticas públicas e incentivos fiscais, têm contribuído fortemente para a concretização de investimentos turísticos relacionados à hospedagem espalhados ao longo da costa. A liberalização e desregulamentação financeira dos anos 90, associadas ao forte papel interventor do Estado expresso, sobretudo, a partir da implantação da primeira Política Nacional de Turismo, na mesma década, perfazem o cenário que ora se apresenta, propiciando uma intensa ocupação do litoral brasileiro, uma significativa presença do capital nacional e uma diferenciação de incidência tipológica dos meios de hospedagem entre as regiões brasileiras. / This research aims to discuss the process of coastline geographical distribution and regionalization of lodging facilities through the identification of different typologies and their incidence along the 275 coastal towns from Amapa to Rio Grande do Sul. The focus is on national and international hotel chains, resorts and real estate ventures, which is an association between second homes and resorts. The main idea is to understand the role of international capital in the production process as well as to verify the places where these enterprises are located. Therefore, it is supposed that are transfer circuits of capital to built space and it there is an association between local real estate agents and the foreign capital helped by public policies and taxes incentives that strongly help the concretion of tourist investments in hotels all along the coastlines. The financial liberalization and deregulation in the 90\'s as well as the strong intervention of Brazilian State specially after the edition of the first Tourism National Policy in the same decade, is the scenario presented here, providing an intense occupation of the Brazilian coast, a significant presence of the national capital and a focus typological differentiation of types of accommodation between the regions.

Nesse trabalho apresentamos um estudo da evolução histórica das principais técnicas de pesca utilizadas pelos pescadores caiçaras do litoral do estado de São Paulo, Brasil, a partir da década de 1910, buscando relacionar as transformações técnicas com as mudanças socioambientais ocorridas na costa paulista. Estudamos as técnicas de pesca a partir da evolução dos petrechos (ferramentas de pesca e acessórios), dos materiais (do que são feitos os petrechos), dos métodos (como são usados os petrechos) e das embarcações (como são utilizadas, conforme a escolha do método). Além das pesquisas bibliográficas e historiográficas, foram realizados trabalhos de campo com coleta de depoimentos de pescadores artesanais e industriais, além de pesquisadores e outras pessoas ligadas à atividade pesqueira. / In this work, we present a study of the historical evolution of the main fishing techniques used by traditional fishermen (known as \"caiçaras\") on the coast of the state of São Paulo, Brasil, from the 1910s on, seeking to relate the technical transformations to the social and environmental changes. We studied the fishing techniques from the evolution of fishing gears (fishing tools and accessories), materials (what the tools are made of), methods (how the tools are used) and vessels (how they are used, according to the chosen method). In addition to the literature and historiography researches, fieldworks were conducted to collect testimony from artisanal and industrial fishermen, as well as researchers and other people linked to the fishing activities.

Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo discutir o processo de produção do espaço litorâneo a partir da espacialização e regionalização dos meios de hospedagem, procurando identificar as diferentes tipologias presentes, bem como a sua incidência ao longo dos 275 municípios litorâneos, do Amapá ao Rio Grande do Sul. São estudadas e inventariadas as segundas residências, as redes hoteleiras nacionais e internacionais, os resorts e os empreendimentos turísticos imobiliários, frutos da associação entre segundas residências e resorts. A intenção, além de verificar a espacialização de tais empreendimentos, é compreender a participação do capital internacional neste processo de produção. Para tanto, parte-se da premissa da existência de circuitos de transferência de capital para o ambiente construído e da associação de agentes imobiliários locais com o capital estrangeiro que, avalizados por políticas públicas e incentivos fiscais, têm contribuído fortemente para a concretização de investimentos turísticos relacionados à hospedagem espalhados ao longo da costa. A liberalização e desregulamentação financeira dos anos 90, associadas ao forte papel interventor do Estado expresso, sobretudo, a partir da implantação da primeira Política Nacional de Turismo, na mesma década, perfazem o cenário que ora se apresenta, propiciando uma intensa ocupação do litoral brasileiro, uma significativa presença do capital nacional e uma diferenciação de incidência tipológica dos meios de hospedagem entre as regiões brasileiras. / This research aims to discuss the process of coastline geographical distribution and regionalization of lodging facilities through the identification of different typologies and their incidence along the 275 coastal towns from Amapa to Rio Grande do Sul. The focus is on national and international hotel chains, resorts and real estate ventures, which is an association between second homes and resorts. The main idea is to understand the role of international capital in the production process as well as to verify the places where these enterprises are located. Therefore, it is supposed that are transfer circuits of capital to built space and it there is an association between local real estate agents and the foreign capital helped by public policies and taxes incentives that strongly help the concretion of tourist investments in hotels all along the coastlines. The financial liberalization and deregulation in the 90\'s as well as the strong intervention of Brazilian State specially after the edition of the first Tourism National Policy in the same decade, is the scenario presented here, providing an intense occupation of the Brazilian coast, a significant presence of the national capital and a focus typological differentiation of types of accommodation between the regions.

O presente trabalho tem como objetivo compreender os processos que conduzem a estabilidade e a evolução morfológica do canal do rio Itaguaré em Bertioga - SP em uma escala de tempo histórica. Para isso, foram realizados os seguintes itens: a caracterização do clima de ondas, caracterização sedimentar, interpretação de fotografias aéreas, mapeamento das feições e delimitação das áreas de perigo relacionada à existência do canal. A análise da caracterização do clima de ondas foi realizada no software CAROL com uma série temporal de 1948 a 2010. As amostras de sedimentos foram coletas e processadas em laboratório por peneiramento e analisadas estatisticamente no software LBSE. A evolução histórica da desembocadura envolveu a escolha de fotografias aéreas de diferentes datas, as quais foram georreferenciadas e extraídas as linhas de costa, feições geomorfológicas e parâmetros específicos para a determinação da área de perigo relacionada ao canal. A caracterização da Barra de Itaguaré indica que a praia é composta por areias fina e muito fina, com ondas de maior incidência de SSE, SE e S. Para a análise da variação da linha de costa adjacente ao canal foi visto que no setor 1 teve progradação máxima de aproximadamente 80m e o setor 2 uma retração máxima de 53m. O canal foi classificado como de baixa energia de migração possuindo uma área de perigo estimada em 1.830m. A desembocadura de Itaguaré durante o período observado é estável quanto à posição na linha de costa e instável geometricamente quanto a sua morfologia, durante o período observado. / The present study has the objective to understand the morphological evolution processes that lead the inlet of Itaguaré, in Bertioga - SP, to stability. Thus, we conducted the following items: a characterization of the wave climate, sediment characterization, aerial photo interpretation, mapping features and delimitation the related inlets hazards areas. The analysis of the wave climate characterization was done in software CAROL with a time series from 1948 to 2010. Sediments samples were collected in field and processed in a laboratory by sieving. These samples were statistically analyzed with the software LBSE. For the inlet historical evolution used aerial photographs of different dates, which were georeferenced and used to extract coastlines, geomorphologic features, and specific parameters for determining inlets hazardous areas. The main results obtained for Itaguaré\'s Bar characterization was that the beach is composed of fine and very fine sand, with waves with a higher incidence of SSE, SE and S. Analysis of coastline variability adjacent to the inlet showed that the sector 1 had maximum progradation of nearly 80m and the sector 2 had a maximum retraction of 53m.The inlet was classified as low-energy migration and has a hazard area of 1830m. It was observed that the Itaguaré inlet is stable with respect to the position at the coastline and geometrically unstable with respect to its morphology.

The term 'Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon (ICOLL)' has been adopted in NSW to described wave dominated barrier estuaries with an intermittent connection to the ocean. ICOLLs can also be found in south east Queensland, south-west Western Australia, and some parts of Victoria and Tasmania, although they are not the dominant estuary type as in NSW. From an international perspective, ICOLLs are also found in South Africa, New Zealand, Mexico and the Atlantic coast of Brazil and Uruguay. Within NSW, ICOLLs are mostly located south of Sydney, due to the high wave activity and close proximity of the Great Dividing Range to the coast, which results in small coastal catchments and thus small fluvial and sediment runoff. The distinguishing difference between ICOLLs and other estuary types is the variable condition of their entrances, which also makes them the most sensitive type of estuary to human interference (HRC, 2002; Boyd et al., 1992). The sensitivity of ICOLLs to external inputs has been described in this thesis based on their morphometric characteristics, which includes their size, shape and predominant entrance condition. NSW ICOLLs exhibit a wide range of physical conditions. Some ICOLLs are rarely open to the ocean, while others are rarely closed. Also, some ICOLLs have experienced extensive development within their catchments, while some are located mostly or wholly within National Parks and other protected reserves. When closed, ICOLLs behave like terminal lakes, retaining and assimilating 100% of the external inputs delivered to the system. When open, tidal flushing assists with advection and dispersion of inputs, however, significant tidal attenuation across the entrance still limits opportunities for effective removal of pollutants. The majority of NSW ICOLLs are considered to be mostly closed (i.e., have a closed entrance for more than 60% of the time), while remaining ICOLLs tend to be mostly open (i.e., have a closed entrance for less than 20% of the time). Few ICOLLs have entrances that are open and closed for roughly equal proportions of time, thus resulting in a distinctive bimodal behaviour of entrance condition (i.e., mostly open or mostly closed). NSW ICOLLs tend to be mostly closed unless (i) the catchment is larger than 100km2, and/or (ii) the exposure of the entrance to ocean swell waves is less than 60 degrees and/or (iii) the entrance channel contains geomorphic controls (e.g. shallow bedrock outcrops). Unless opened artificially, ICOLLs will generally remain closed until a sufficient volume of catchment runoff accumulates within the waterway to increase water levels to a level that overtops (breaches) the entrance sand berm. Once breached, high velocity flows over the berm cause scour and the development of a formalised entrance channel, which increases exponentially until an optimum width and depth has been reached (determined by the hydrostatic head, geomorphic controls and tidal conditions at the time). Following entrance breakout and lowering of the lagoon level, sand is reworked back into the entrance under the influence of flood tides and wave processes. The environmental condition of ICOLLs has generally been assumed as being dependent on the state of the catchment and the associated input of nutrients (form and magnitude) to the system. Biogeochemical processes also are reported to influence the condition of ICOLLs, particularly denitrification, which is controlled by the organic load on the bed and the extent of benthic algae and macrophytic productivity. In addition to this, however, it is demonstrated that the predominant and prevailing entrance conditions (i.e. open or closed) also influence the physical, chemical and biological environments. ICOLLs are particularly susceptible to the impacts of future climate change. This thesis provides a description of expected impacts on NSW ICOLLs environments associated in response to future climate changes, based on a detailed appreciation of physical processes and their follow-on consequences. Impacts on ICOLLs are expected as a result of increasing sea level, altered rainfall patterns, and modified offshore wave climate. A survey of relevant government officials has revealed that more than 50% of NSW ICOLLs are artificially opened before water levels reach the height of the natural entrance sand berm. Artificial entrance opening is mostly carried out to mitigate inundation of public and/or private assets around ICOLL foreshores, such as roads, backyards, farming lands and on-site sewage (septic) systems. Truncation of the hydraulic regime of ICOLLs can modify other physical, chemical and biological processes, and can result in deleterious impacts such as the terrestrialisation of estuarine wetlands and foreshores. Few statutory environmental planning mechanisms protect ICOLLs from future degradation. This thesis has identified the key issues that potentially compromise ICOLL integrity and sustainability, which include the expected future population growth in coastal NSW (thus increasing pressure for intensification of development within ICOLL catchments), future climate change (particularly increases in sea level), and the increased demand for amenity, particularly during summer holiday periods (i.e. 'summer impacts'). A series of management models have been developed to address key issues. The models comprise a suite of strategies that target future development and existing management practices, through a range of new or modified planning instruments. Models for the future management of ICOLL entrances aim to prevent artificial openings in the long-term. This requires, however, the systematic relocation, raising or flood-proofing of public and private assets that have been established on land that is potentially subject to inundation. Increasing sea levels in the future will compound the need for improved entrance management. Pro-active, integrated and adaptive management strategies need to be implemented today to minimise the on-going conflict and potential for continued environmental degradation in the future.

Fractal was first used in measuring the length of the coastline, with the fractal research and development, not only to break the traditional Archimedean geometry, but also to explain many scientific to ignore the complexity and nature of nonlinear phenomena structure .Fractal has been widely applied to such as physics, astronomy, geography and sociology and other fields, as a wave of interdisciplinary research in recent years. Coastal areas has always been cultural, economic and activities areas since ancient times. Coastal zone was land and sea for the interaction region by a variety of factors (ex: waves, tides, currents and wind, etc.) continue to function, derived from different coastal terrain. Therefore changes in the coast of the deep impact of humanity. Under the principle of the conservation and development, Coastal areas should be use of modern technology to prediction, analysis, assessment, planning, and management, so that a sustainable preservation of coastal resources. In this study, static and dynamic predict and simulation the coast shape base on fractal. The static part is observation of 29 beaches in South China coast. And collect and calculate the parameters and fractal dimensions of the coast. Through the shape of image processing and analysis of information, to find two generators of the coast. Through the data mining technology to identify the criteria for classification, and to simulation the coastline by generate iterations method. The dynamic part is based on hydraulic model¡¦s results, the use of traditional multiple linear regression and neural network to compare the dynamic prediction of the coastline. The results show that the use of neural networks to predict than the use of multiple linear regression, and effect of use difference angle (£c) to predict sub-coastlines than the effect of not use difference angle (£c) to predict, and add fractal dimension can effectively reduce the predict error and increase the degree of interpretation.

River plays an essential function in providing sediments to the beach stability but this importance has not yet been properly estimated on the Peruvian coastline. So, the aim of this study focuses on the role of river sediments in the stability of the coastline at the Jequetepeque river mouth, located at the northern coast of Peru. This river, whose basin covers an area of ​​4,200 square kilometers, provides in average more than 900 million cubic meters a year (MMC yr-1) of water, and 2.9-8.0 MMC yr-1 of sediments to the ocean. Since the start of the Gallito Ciego dam in 1987, more than 104 MMC of sediments were retained into the reservoir. In order to assess the impact of the dam on the stability of the river mouth, a comparison among different coastline moments (for the years 1962, 1980, 2003 and 2011) with the support of GIS, were made. The results showed that the river mouth retreat to the land between 2003 and 2011 with rates of -2.6 m year-1. Moreover, the retreat of the coastline observed throughout the study area between 1962 and 2011, it could be related to the potential sea level rise and the trend of the worldwide beach erosion. / Los sedimentos fluviales cumplen un papel fundamental para el abastecimiento de las playas en la costa peruana cuya importancia no ha sido aun debidamente estimada. Con este fin, el estudio se centra en el papel que desempeña los sedimentos fluviales en la estabilidad de la línea de costa en la desembocadura del río Jequetepeque, ubicado en la costa norte del Perú. Este río, cuya cuenca abarca una superficie de 4.2 mil kilómetros cuadrados, aporta en promedio más de 900 millones de metros cúbicos al año (MMC año-1) de agua y entre 2.9 y 8.0 MMC año-1 de sedimentos al océano. A partir del inicio de las operaciones de la represa de Gallito Ciego en 1987, más de 104 MMC de sedimentos quedaron retenidos en el embalse. Con el fin de evaluar la influencia de la represa en el comportamiento de la desembocadura, se llevó a cabo la comparación entre las líneas de costa de los años 1962, 1980, 2003 y 2011 con el soporte de SIG. A partir del análisis se identificó el retroceso de la desembocadura entre 2003 y 2011 con tasas de -2.6 m año-1. Por otra parte, el retroceso de la línea de costa observado en toda el área de estudio, entre 1962 y 2011, podría estar relacionado con la posible elevación del nivel del mar y la tendencia a la erosión de las playas a escala global.