Over the past thirty years, the study of dress has flourished as a field of interdisciplinary enquiry, emerging from consumer studies by economic historians and artefact-based research. More recent scholarship has addressed clothing in terms of material culture and as a marker of identity, adopting approaches from anthropology, cultural studies, history of art, material culture studies and history. However, despite these advances in understandings of eighteenth-century dress, the social and cultural consequence of many garments has yet to be fully teased out. This thesis aims to amend that oversight and shed light on the significance of underwear and accessories in Britain and, to a lesser extent, colonial America from the period of 1666 to 1819. Five garments, each stemming from a different region of the body, form the chapters of this thesis: banyans, cork rumps, calashes, muffs, and stays. As structural undergarments, accessories and undress, these objects were auxiliary to the main garments of eighteenth-century dress, a man’s three-piece suit and woman’s mantua or polonaise gown. However, they were fashionable necessities, required to give the essential shape to the silhouette, complete an ensemble, or sartorially facilitate the expression of politeness and sociability. This discussion looks beyond these items as articles of fashion to establish their cultural currency through the study, where possible, of surviving material artefacts and their visual and discursive representations in painted portraiture, graphic satire, archival manuscripts, and published newspapers and magazines. Marrying aspects of artefact-based approaches with visual analysis exposes the discourses between the material artefacts and their representational constructions. First, the thesis discusses the banyan’s relation to time, exposing it as an agent of time that thwarted the chrononormative paths of the male sex. Issues of evidence, or the lack thereof, are addressed in Chapter Two, through an examination of the cork rump in satirical prints. The third chapter charts the material, spatial and social mobility of the calash and its wearer. Addressing embroidered and satin print silk muffs, the fourth chapter positions the silk muff as a haptic receptacle of expression, as well as portable canvas of female art and patronage. The final chapter examines the divergent associations of the stay, both as a mediator of gender normativity, and as an iconographic vessel of gender, class and national anxiety. Through the close analysis of these previously overlooked articles of dress, this thesis reveals the charged and weighted associations embedded within and ascribed to underwear and accessories in the long eighteenth century.

La peridermis és una estructura complexa que protegeix els òrgans vegetals madurs (secundaris) i les zones que han sofert ferides de la pèrdua d'aigua i dels patògens. Aquesta funció barrera és deguda al fel·lema o súber, un teixit format per cèl·lules suberificades. Tant el fel·lema com la suberina són crucials per la vida de les plantes terrestres, però pràcticament no es coneix res dels processos moleculars que regulen la seva formació, probablement degut a la manca de models adequats. En aquesta tesi s'han identificat i caracteritzat gens induïts al fel·lema mitjançant la combinació de dues plantes models. L'escorça d'alzina surera (Quercus suber) s'ha utilitzat per aïllar gens candidats de la formació del fel·lema i per investigar el comportament d'alguns d'aquests gens durant l'estació de creixement, mentre que la pela de la patata (Solanum tuberosum) s'ha utilitzat en estudis de genètica reversa per demostrar la funció d'alguns gens reguladors al fel·lema. / The periderm is a complex structure that protects plant mature (secondary) organs and wounded tissues from water loss, injuries and pathogens. This barrier capacity is accomplished by the cork layer of the periderm, a tissue made of dead cells with suberin deposited into cell walls. Although cork and suberin are critical for the survival of land plants, very few is known about the molecular processes involved in their biosynthesis and differentiation, probably due to the lack of appropriate plant models. Here we developed a strategy to identify and characterize cork candidate genes using a combination of two model plants for periderm studies. The bark of cork oak (Quercus suber) was used to identify candidate genes and to analyze the seasonal behaviour of some of these genes. The potato (Solanum tuberosum) tuber was used to demonstrate the role of some selected candidates in the regulation of cork by reverse genetic analyses.

La incidència sobre el suro de defectes sensorials amb descriptors de florit-humitat és un dels principals problemes amb què s'enfronta la indústria surera. Els principals compostos relacionats amb aquest defecte son cloroanisoles, metoxipirazines, geosmina i metilisoborneol. Aquesta recerca s'ha fet amb l'objectiu principal d'aprofundir en els mètodes de determinació de compostos volàtils en suro. S'ha desenvolupat una metodologia basada en la microextracció en fase sòlida i la cromatografia de gasos per a l'anàlisi conjunta d'aquests compostos en macerats de suro. El fet que la majoria dels compostos d'interès tingui un origen microbià ha fet necessari completar les anàlisis químiques amb mètodes de detecció i aïllament dels microorganismes susceptibles de produir-los. S'ha utilitzat un mètode per a l'estudi de la diversitat de fongs i bacteris en mostres de suro basat en l'estudi de marcadors genètics mitjançant l'anàlisi en gradients electroforètics desnaturalitzants. Per últim s'ha avaluat la capacitat de producció de defectes sensorials per microorganismes aïllats de suro utilitzant tècniques olfactomètriques. / The incidence of musty-earthy sensory deviations on cork is one of the main problems that the cork industry faces. The main compounds related to this defect are chloroanisoles, methoxypyrazines, geosmin and methylisoborneol. The aim of this research work was to develop analytical methods to simultaneously determine a large set of volatile compounds in cork samples. A methodology based on solid phase microextraction (SPME) and gas chromatography for the determination of TCA, 3-isopropyl-2-methoxypyrazine, geosmin and methylisoborneol in cork aqueous macerates has been developed and validated. Moreover, the microbial origin of most of these compounds makes necessary to complement the chemical analysis with the detection and isolation of microorganisms that may be involved in the production of off-odours. Regular fingerprinting techniques for the analysis of microbial diversity such as Denaturing Gradient Gel Electrophoresis (DGGE) have been applied to the study of microorganism potentially responsible for off-odour formation in cork, in order to complement the chemical characterization of the volatile fraction. Finally we have evaluated the off-odour production capacity of microorganisms isolated from cork using olfactometry techniques.

Dies ist eine Präsentation, (1) die von Frau Prof. Dr. I. Hudabiunigg und (1) Melanie Hildebrand am 2. Mai 2005 in (1) Budapest gehalten wurde.(1) (1) Die Inhalte: (1) (1) 1. Was wissen Studenten von Kulturhauptstädten (1) Europas? (1) 2. Vorbereitungsseminare (1) 3. Exkursionen (1) 4. Präsentation der Ergebnisse (1) 5. Nachhaltigkeit (1)

Les travaux présentés concernent le développement d'un matériau composite (farine de liège, liant et additif) pour l'élaboration de bouchons technologiques mis en œuvre par un procédé de moulage. Dans le cadre de ces travaux, la synthèse, la caractérisation et la formulation d'un polymère biosourcé ont été développées en tant que liant de ce matériau composite. La stratégie de cette thèse a été de développer un polymère obtenu par polycondensation d'un composé époxydique avec un agent réticulant de type amine. Dans un premier temps, une caractérisation approfondie du liant utilisé par DIAM Bouchage a été réalisée pour définir le cahier des charges du nouveau polymère. L'étude de composés époxydiques et amines ont permis de sélectionner des précurseurs commerciaux biosourcés et non-classés CMR qui répondent au cahier des charges. De nouveaux précurseurs époxydiques et amines ont été synthétisés à partir de bioressources telles que la vanilline et les dérivés d'acide gras. La synthèse de résines époxy-amines a été effectuée grâce aux précurseurs commerciaux sélectionnés et ces résines ont été caractérisées thermiquement, mécaniquement et physiquement. Finalement, des bouchons technologiques ont été synthétisés selon différentes formulations et caractérisés pour évaluer leur adéquation avec les spécifications de DIAM Bouchage. / The presented study concerns the development of a composite material (cork flour, binder and additive) in order to produce of technological cork-stoppers carried out by a molding process. As part of this work, the synthesis, the characterization and the formulation of a biobased polymer have been developed as a binder of the composite material. The strategy of this thesis was to develop a polymer obtained by polycondensation of an epoxy compound with an amine curing agent.As a first step, a thorough characterization of the binder used by DIAM Bouchage was carried out to define the specifications of the novel polymer. The study of epoxy and amine compounds led to the selection of biobased commercial and non-classified CMR precursors that meet the specifications. Novel epoxy and amine precursors were synthesized from biobased resources such as vanillin and fatty acid derivatives. The synthesis of epoxy-amine resins was performed with the selected commercial precursors and these resins were characterized thermally, mechanically and physically. Finally, different formulations of technological cork-stoppers were synthesized and characterized to evaluate their suitability with the DIAM Bouchage specifications.

Cold Spray Additive Manufacturing is a technology capable of mass manufacturing components with complicated geometry and coating substrates in hard-to-reach areas. In addition, cold spray also has the ability of conducting a green manufacturing process, with zero waste of renewable feed material, and zero gas and chemical emission. This paper investigates solely cold spray as an additive manufacturing technology with cork as the natural material. CFD results were used to predict the physical behavior of air and the cork particles. After unsuccessful coatings, final results showed that when moisture is added, cork is successfully cold sprayed, and agglomeration is experienced. Following these results, high speed camera and Hopkinson bar tests concluded that pressure is the only significant parameter that drastically effects the disposition quality of the cork coating. This is the first reported result of cork powder being cold sprayed, in addition to groundbreaking results of successfully coating an Aluminum substrate without a binder. Key words: cork, powder, additive manufacturing, natural materials, cold spray, binder, deposition efficiency, coating, high speed camera, Hopkinson bar.

No description available.

Lors de la conservation des vins en bouteilles, des réactions d’oxydation prématurées peuvent se produire et les propriétés barrières à l’oxygène de l’obturateur en liège sont souvent mises en cause. À l’heure actuelle, aucune étude n’a permis de déterminer la structure interne du liège ou l’effet de l’hydratation sur ses propriétés mécaniques. Quant aux propriétés barrières à l’oxygène, l’étape limitante au transfert reste indéterminée ainsi que l’effet de la compression et le rôle de l’interface verre/liège. L’étude de la structure interne du liège par imagerie a permis de visualiser la macroporosité du matériau et de conclure que pour les qualités de liège étudiées, les lenticelles ne sont pas interconnectées. La caractérisation des propriétés mécaniques du liège a montré que le module de Young n’était pas affecté pour une humidité relative < 50 %. En milieu plus humide, ce dernier diminue à cause de la formation de clusters de molécules d’eau entre les chaines de polymères constituants les parois cellulaires. En comparant le comportement du liège brut avec celui d’autres obturateurs, un effet de la taille des particules de liège et du ratio liège/additifs utilisés dans ces obturateurs, a également été mis en évidence. Au regard du mécanisme de transfert de gaz, les mécanismes en jeu et en particulier l’étape limitante ont été clairement déterminés : il s’agit de la diffusion au travers des parois cellulaires selon la loi de Fick. L’effet de la compression du bouchon ne modifie pas significativement le transfert d’oxygène tandis que le rôle de l’interface verre/liège semble gouverner les transferts de gaz de l’extérieur vers l’intérieur de la bouteille. / During the post bottling aging, premature oxidation reactions could occur and the oxygen barrier properties of the stopper are often pointed out. Nowadays, the internal structure of this material or the effect of hydration on its mechanical properties are still undetermined. Moreover, regarding the barrier properties, the limiting step of the oxygen transfer was not yet fully understood as well as the effect of compression or the role of the glass/cork interface in a bottleneck. The study of the internal structure of cork stopper allowed us to visualize the macroporosity of the material and conclude that there is no interconnectivity between lenticels, for the two qualities studied. The effect of hydration on the mechanical properties of cork was also investigated. The results shown that the rigidity of the material was not significantly affected for relative humidity < 50 %. Above this hydration level, the Young’s moduli decrease due to clusters formation of water molecules. Comparing the natural cork behavior to other stoppers, an effect of the particle size and the ratio cork/additives used in these stoppers was also highlighted. Regarding the transport mechanism of gas through cork, the limiting step was clearly determined: it’s the diffusion through the cell wall according to a Fickian mechanism. The compression of the stopper does not have a significant impact on the effective diffusion coefficient of oxygen. However, the role of the glass/cork interface is really important and seems to govern the gas transfer from the surrounding atmosphere into the bottle.

Attualmente il gusto di tappo è uno dei problemi più gravi per il settore enologico e sugheriero. I principali composti responsabili di questo difetto sono i policloroanisoli, tra cui in particolare il 2,4,6-tricloroanisolo (TCA),che si formano dai corrispondenti precursori fenolici. La ricerca ha preso in esame vari aspetti:-studio dell'impatto sensoriale del TCA in diversi tipi di vino;-ottimizzazione di metodi di estrazione e analisi di policlorofenoli e policloroanisoli nel sughero e nel vino;-studio della microflora presente nel sughero in base alla capacità di degradare i policlorofenoli. I risultati hanno mostrato che l'uso di un unico valore soglia per la percezione del TCA nei vini non sembra idoneo; i metodi messi a punto sono risultati adeguati per la determinazione di clorofenoli e cloroanisoli; i microrganismi hanno presentato una capacità di produrre TCA differente a seconda del ceppo utilizzato. / Today cork taint is one of most serious problems for wine and cork industries. The primary compounds considered responsible for this defect are chloroanisoles, especially 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA), that are produced from their phenolic precursors. The PhD work was carried out studying different aspects of this subject: -effect of wine style on the perception of TCA;-optimization of extraction and analysis methods to determine chlorophenols and chloroanisoles in wine and cork; biodegradation ability of mould isolated from cork to produce TCA from TCP. The results showed that the use of generic threshold values for all wines does not seem to be accurate enough; methods optimized are adequate to detect chlorophenols and chloroanisoles; micro-organisms tested can produce TCA from TCP.

Thesis (MSc Food Sc (Food Science))--University of Stellenbosch, 2009. / This study focused on a serious quality-related problem in the global wine industry, including the South African Wine Industry, namely cork taint in wine. Annually, large financial losses are incurred by cork suppliers and wine producers, as a result of cork-tainted wine. Although contaminated new unused corks are frequently implicated as the origin of this taint, contaminated cellar equipment and water can also be the source of the problem. An explorative investigation into the incidence of cork taint in South African wines showed that 3.8% of the 133 wines tested, contained 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) concentrations of 3.5 ng/L and higher, as determined by gas chromatography coupled with electron capture detection (GC-ECD). TCA concentrations higher than 1 ng/L were found in 18% of the wines tested. All affected wines were sealed with solid or agglomerate cork stoppers. These wines were sourced from various wineries in the Western Cape region, South Africa and were of different cultivars. None of the wines sealed with synthetic closures had any detectable TCA, 2,4,6-tribromoanisole (TBA) or pentachloroanisole (PCA) levels and only very low 2,3,4,6- tetrachloroanisole (TeCA) levels (1 ng/L or less). Another group of 28 wines that were rejected by the official South African wine regulatory body on the basis of the presence of mouldy taint during wine certification, was also included in this study. GC-ECD analysis showed that 30% of the wines in this group contained TCA at concentrations of 3.5 ng/L and higher. These results pointed to a relative high incidence of TCA in the wines investigated, especially those sealed with cork stoppers. Although no general conclusions should be made on the incidence of cork taint in the wider wine industry based on the results found within this explorative investigation, these findings confirmed the presence of cork taint in South African wines. Detection threshold values were determined for TCA, TeCA, TBA and PCA in three wine cultivars using the standard ASTM method. Results indicate that factors relating to the wine cultivar seemed to affect threshold values considerably. Our research proposes a detection range rather than an average detection threshold. Detection ranges established for TCA, TeCA, TBA and PCA in Chenin blanc, Pinotage and Shiraz coincide with reported values in literature. This result can be regarded as a valuable expansion of the existing knowledge of detection threshold values. Descriptive sensory analysis indicated significant (P 0.05) changes in the aroma profile of Chenin blanc, Pinotage and Shiraz after TCA, TeCA, TBA or PCA was added to the respective base wines that contained no detectable levels of the haloanisoles. The mouldy taint induced by these haloanisoles were described as mouldy, mouldy-chemical, mouldychlorine, as well as mouldy-acidic. In Chenin blanc, additions of TCA, in the concentration range 1 to 17 ng/L, resulted in a marked increase in the mouldy aroma and was accompanied by an immediate decrease in fruitiness. This change was already evident at added TCA concentrations of 1 ng/L. Similar trends were observed in Pinotage, while the addition of low levels of TCA to Shiraz (2 ng/L) resulted in a significant (P 0.05) decrease in the herbaceous character of the wine. The aroma changes observed were prominent enough to render the wine totally unacceptable in comparison to its original character. Consumers’ degree of liking did not seem to be affected by very low concentration levels of TCA in Chenin blanc, Pinotage or Shiraz, but rejection increased as the concentration increased beyond detection threshold level. A slight gender effect was also noticed. Female consumers appeared to be more sensitive to increasing levels of TCA, whereas male consumers did not respond as negatively to higher concentration levels of TCA. This study makes an important contribution towards understanding the sensory impact of especially TCA contamination in wine, through the establishment of concentration ranges at which these compounds exert a noticeable detrimental effect on the aroma profile of wine. Additional insight into cork taint in wine is provided by the consumer preference studies, where the effects of the taint on the product acceptance by consumers are demonstrated. The development of a modus operandi to ensure that sensory panels provide reliable data, can be regarded as an important contribution to wine-related research. This study is one of the first where advanced sensometric techniques were applied in sensory studies on cork tainted wines.