Do second-hand clothing donations ‘do good?’ Thrift stores promote the message that second-hand clothing (SHC) donations ‘do good’ when they solicit donations from individuals. I argue that this narrative of ‘doing good’ overemphasizes the social and economic value of donated clothes and conceals the negative aspects of overconsumption and the problems associated with the commercial export of SHC. The aim of this thesis is to better understand the relationship between fast fashion, clothing consumption and disposal patterns, and the global trade in SHC donations by examining what motivates individuals to donate SHC to thrift stores, and how thrift stores are linked to the international trade in SHC. I began to map SHC donations from households to thrift stores. I used a global production network (GPN) framework to examine the social, political, and economic relations that contribute to how value is created, increased, and extracted in this commodity chain. Using a case study approach, I conducted 30 interviews with individuals who donated used clothing and I conducted research at four different thrift stores that sell SHC in Victoria, BC. / Graduate / 2020-04-17

Thesis. 1977. M.Arch.--Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Dept. of Architecture. / MICROFICHE COPY AVAILABLE IN ARCHIVES AND ROTCH. / by Kevin A. Benjamin. / M.Arch.

Avsikten med vår uppsats är att bringa förståelse kring hur modevarumärken använder sig av nytänkande marknadsföring vid förmedling av sitt budskap, med fokus på: sociala mediekanaler, varumärkesambassadörer och Pop up stores. Vår huvudfråga är; Hur använder sig modeföretag av innovativ marknadsföring för att kommunicera sitt varumärkesbudskap? Innovativ marknadsföring är vårt egna begrepp vilket vi definierar som marknadsaktiviteter med syfte att skapa uppmärksamhet kring ett varumärke med fokus på kreativitet och nytänkande snarare än med pengar. Den empiriska undersökningen består av intervjuer med respondenter från Jumperfabriken, Svenska Moderådet, Dragster Kommunikation och Hope. Vår teoretiska referensram berör teorier gällande varumärkets tre nivåer, märkets författare, deltagande och absorbering, dold marknadsföring, pullmarknadsföring samt diffusionsteorier. Varumärkets tre nivåer skildrar kärna, stil och tema. Där kärnan motsvarar varumärkets själ, stil beskrivs som den kultur varumärket gestaltar och tema handlar om hur detta kommuniceras till marknaden. Märkets författare kategoriseras som märkesinnehavare, konsumenter, populärkultur och andra viktiga intressenter. Samtliga aktörer är skapare av märkets mening. Kundens grad av deltagande samt typ av anknytning/relation till omgivningen kopplas i uppsatsen till olika typer av marknadsföringsaktiviteter. Kunden kan vara enbart mentalt närvarande, fysiskt närvarande eller bli medproducent till händelsen och på så sätt påverka resultatet. Dold marknadsföring är ett innovativt sätt att nå ut med sitt varumärkesbudskap genom mediebruset. Ett dolt marknadsföringsbudskap kan spridas fysiskt, verbalt eller virtuellt. Det nya sättet att kommunicera kallas pullmarknadsföring och innebär att information finns tillgänglig då konsumenten vill ta del av den. Diffusion innebär spridning i och genom sociala system. Diffusionsprocessen omfattar många människors beslut kring att anamma en nyhet. Ett varumärke måste även legitimeras för att bli erkänt och en välanvänd legitimeringsmetod är att visa upp sina plagg på välkända personer. Uppsatsen visar att företag inte använder sig av innovativ marknadsföring i rent försäljningssyfte. Det huvudsakliga användningsområdet är istället att förmedla budskap och frambringa associationer. Innovativ marknadsföring används också för att skapa en relation till varumärkets konsumenter, för att de i sin tur skall sprida budskapet vidare. Denna typ av marknadsföring kan i många fall ses som synonym till dold marknadsföring. De tre delarna fysiskt, verbalt samt virtuellt är centrala och bör kombineras. Även pullmarknadsföring kan knytas samman med innovativ marknadsföring, i avseende att konsumenter är vana vid att välja vilka budskap de vill ta del av. Den innovativa marknadsföringen är upplevelsebaserad och i takt med att konsumenters medvetenhet kring reklam ökar måste aktiviteterna ständigt förnyas. Sociala medier är ett självklart inslag i företags marknadsföring. Det innovativa ligger dock i aktiviteterna, snarare än i själva kanalerna. Dessa aktiviteter kräver en reaktion för att få spridning. Ambassadörer kan ha en stor påverkan i diffusionen av ett modevarumärke. Det är dock viktigt att varumärket noggrant tänker igenom sitt val av ambassadör för att undvika oönskade associationer. En annan viktig aspekt är att ambassadörskapet bör framhållas som ett samarbete för att undvika den negativa klangen i företagssponsring. I framtiden tror våra respondenter att ambassadörskapet kommer nå nya dimensioner genom innovativa samarbeten. Vi kan i och med detta dra slutsatsen att en ambassadör inte enbart behöver vara en känd person utan kan lika väl vara en plats varumärket vill associeras med. Genom att sätta upp en Pop up store kan varumärken nå ut till medvetna konsumenter och nya marknader. Butiken uppfattas ofta som slumpmässig, men är i själva verket en strategiskt planerad marknadsföringsaktivitet. Pop up stores och andra analoga aktiviteter är i dagsläget mer sällsynta än de innovativa marknadsföringsaktiviteter som sker på internet. Vi kan därav dra slutsatsen att Pop up stores och liknande aktiviteter är här för att stanna. / Program: Butikschef, textil och mode

M.. Tech. (Business Administration, Faculty of Management Sciences), Vaal University of Technology / Store choice has become an area of concern for a retailer, with no clear verdict as to what drives customers in the selection of a store. Shopping at the right store with the right social reputation may be essential for many customers. Therefore, the dynamic store choice decision can be conceptualised as a problem of deciding where and when to shop. The primary objective of this study was to determine the influence of perceived social risk and buying behaviour on apparel retail store choice among Generation Y female students within the Sedibeng district. This study focused on perceived social risk, as the literature shows that publically consumed products are the ones with a high level of social risk and the consumer’s need for social acceptance with regards to brand and store choices. This study also looked at the buying behaviour of apparel by Generation Y female students within the Sedibeng district because in today’s increasingly complex retail environment, an understanding of consumers’ buying behaviour and their knowledge of products and services is critical for high quality business decisions. In addition, an understanding of consumers’ buying behaviour will assist retailers to segment their client base and target specific customer groups with strategies designed to meet their retail needs. A quantitative research approach was used for this study and a non-probability convenience sampling procedure was adopted in this study. A structured questionnaire was utilised to survey 400 students from the two universities in the Sedibeng district. The target population for this study was restricted to Generation Y female students within the two universities, namely Vaal University of Technology (VUT) and North West University (NWU). Pre-testing and a pilot study preceded the main survey and reliabilities were measured using the Cronbach alpha coefficients. Out of 400 questionnaires sent to the participants, a total of 370 responses were received and this resulted in a return rate of 92.5 percent for the main study. The statistical analysis of the collected data included descriptive statistical analysis, correlation analysis, exploratory factor analysis, confirmatory factor analysis and structural equation modelling to test the posited hypothesis. The analysis results of the factor analysis showed that based on the Kaiser-Guttman rule, for each of the constructs (perceived social risk, buying behaviour and retail store choice) only two factors that have intrinsic value greater than one were extracted. For the perceived social risk construct, two factors, which were labelled anxiousness and significant others were extracted and for the buying behaviour construct two factors, which were labelled acceptance and reaction were extracted. Lastly, for the retail store choice construct, two factors, which were labelled word of mouth as well as convenience and physical characteristics of the store were extracted through the exploratory factor analysis technique. According to the results of the structural equation modelling analysis, the tested relationships produced satisfactory results consistent with how they were hypothesised. Specifically, it appeared that there is a direct relationship between perceived social risk and buying behaviour. Buying behaviour also has a positive effect on retail store choice and finally, perceived social risk has a good impact, but there is no significant influence on retail store choice as indicated by the findings. Insights gained from this study will assist marketers of apparel products to increase the patronage levels in their stores by expediting the factors identified in this study. Moreover, these findings may enable apparel retail store managers to comprehensively understand how perceived social risk influences a consumer’s retail store choice and to predict as well as develop a current view of the buying behaviour of female Generation Y consumers, thereby facilitating the evelopment and implementation of more effective marketing strategies in their stores. Implications of the findings are discussed and limitations and future research directions are alluded to.

Lack of accessibility to healthy foods is a factor associated with the increase in obesity, diabetes, and other negative health consequences. While programs such as WIC (Women, Infants, and Children) provide supplemental nutritional access to healthy foods, few organic food items are included in the WIC authorized food list. Government programs and policy makers that provide to the most vulnerable populations are concerned about equal availability of healthy foods. The purpose of this study was to compare variability and cost of organic food items in 24 large chain grocery stores located in high- and low-income areas. The theoretical concepts of social production of disease and political economy of health guided the study. The study used a quantitative research design to investigate the relationship between neighborhood income level and the consumer nutrition environment. Organic food scores were compared by neighborhood income level using t test and ANOVA. There were significant differences in availability and variability scores of healthy organic foods between high- and low-income neighborhood stores. Organic food items, specifically 15% fat content ground beef, peanut butter, apple juice, and eggs were priced significantly higher than conventional items (p < 0.05). Pricing of organic foods varied and no significant pricing trends were noted between neighborhood income levels. This study may contribute to social change by enhancing the conversation on organic food availability and affordability. Social change may be promoted through identification of the need to expand WIC authorization of organic food items and increasing produce voucher amount to allow WIC participants to purchase higher amounts of organic produce.

Small business owners can suffer fluctuations in profitability during the entrance of big box stores within their neighborhood that grab market share with more recognizable brands and change the retail environment. A multiple case study was completed to explore the strategies small business owners use to stay profitable during retail gentrification, looking specifically at the neighborhoods of Adams Morgan and Congress Heights in Washington, DC. Porter's five forces and the resource-based view served as the conceptual framework for the study. Seven small business owners with over 80 years of experience in their locations provided input through semistructured interviews and identified effects of gentrification on their neighborhoods and strategies they used to combat retail gentrification. The thematic approach to data analysis was used to organically code the data based upon reoccurring themes. As a result, 5 strategies were identified within the data: pricing, advertising, customer acquisition, shopkeeper mentality, and neighborhood engagement. The results of this study might provide small business owners with a toolkit of strategies to assist in staying profitable during a time of change. The implications for social change include the potential for maintaining small business profitability during gentrification, encouraging entrepreneurship, employing local residents, and retaining the authentic culture of the neighborhood.

This thesis investigates the history of labour management at David Jones, the major Australian retailer and manufacturer, between the years 1838 and 1958. This thesis examines the development of consent-based approach to labour management at David Jones, in particular the development of paternalism and welfarism. In doing so this thesis explores both general questions regarding the factors that influence why certain firms adopt a consent-based approach to labour management, as well as informing debates around the existence of nineteenth century paternalism and the origins of twentieth century welfarism. The historical material contained at the David Jones Archives and elsewhere reveals little evidence of paternalism as a deliberate management strategy. This brings into question the usefulness of paternalism as a concept in the historical study of Australian labour management. The inability to trace paternalism also undermines explanations of twentieth century welfarism premised on the pre-existence of nineteenth century paternalism. The historical materials, however, do note that twentieth century welfarism was a deliberate labour management strategy adopted by David Jones management. Welfarism, combined with systematic management and training, was initially adopted following the First World War to deal with the threat of industrial turmoil. However, in the 1930s, welfarism increasingly became a pro-active strategy designed to create skilled selling and raise the profile of the firm within the community. Further, welfarism at David Jones in the inter-war period was more than merely a new form of paternalism, somehow transformed by being in a larger, more bureaucratic setting or a result of employers confronted an increasingly feminised workforce. Welfarism at David Jones was a deliberate strategy, informed by overseas experiments, management consultants and the new science of psychology. Welfarism at David Jones continued into the post World War Two period. However, new forms of retailing, in particular self-service, undermined attempts to create skilled selling. Elements of welfarism remain at David Jones and continue to support the firm???s corporate image as a provider of high-quality customer service.

This thesis sets out to evaluate the role of consumer spaces in twentieth-century daily life. It is not concerned with the act of consumption but rather with the ways in which the social, cultural and educative role of the retail spaces is used as a marketing tool. The links that have been established between civic and commercial space over the last three hundred years are charted in order to locate the reasoning behind the growing tendency to design shopping malls as social and cultural spaces in the twentieth century. Three principal benefits to developers of the retails spaces from the promotion of consumer spaces as public spaces are identified in the thesis. First, links between the public and commercial developed to encourage potential customers into a particular retail space as opposed to its competition. Second, consumer spaces are developed as social and leisure spaces to encourage consumer loyalty. That is, they are developed as a means of encouraging repeat visits. Third, they are developed as a tactic to keep potential shoppers in the retail space for a longer duration. The logic behind this strategy being the more time spent in a consumer space the more goods purchased. The origins of this merchandising practice are traced back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries well before the advent of the department store form. The thesis located a number of strategies developed in the seventeenth century by tradesmen and merchants to sell their wares. At this time, it is evident that the consumer space was opened up to the public who were encouraged to enter without the obligation to purchase. Further, it is evident that, by the eighteenth century, shopkeepers and manufacturers' workshops included showrooms where potential customers could sit and take tea. Public spaces were also designed within the retail space so that potential customers could see and be seen. British shopkeepers often linked the retail space with the social practice of promenading by strategically situating their premises in an already established thoroughfare or site used for promenading. By the late eighteenth century, consumer spaces housed entertainment facilities such as art galleries, exhibitions and lounging rooms. After tracing the development of this merchandising strategy to the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the links that can be made between twentieth-century consumer spaces is examined. In addition, the early developments of shopping centres in the 1940s and 1950s are surveyed and their developmental logic and merchandising strategies are compared with more recent forms of shopping malls developed from the 1970s and 1980s.

Doctor of Philosophy / Abstract There has been a significant change in Australian consumer behaviour with an increase in time and money spent, in suburban ethnic business districts (named in this study as ethniehubs). But little attention has been paid to the role of ethnically owned stores in generating income within ethniehubs. In fact, there is still a lack of research conducted by architects and planners about the way in which the physical environment of ethnic stores in ethniehubs attract consumers, and the way in which the physical environment affect consumers’ behaviour. Therefore, the study is important in filling the current gap in literature. For this Sydney-based study, two separate ethniehubs are used for data collection - Leichhardt with a strong Italian character, and Cabramatta with identifiably Vietnamese attributes. The goal of this study is to find out how the ethniehubs have developed and how consumers behave in ethniehubs. The present study derived from architecture and planning, also addresses the effect of the physical environment of ethnic stores on consumers behaviour at both store and ethniehub level. The research has several questions to answer. How have Sydney’s ethniehubs developed? How do ethniehubs influence consumer behaviour? More specifically: What attracts consumers to ethniehubs? Who are these consumers? What do they purchase? Does the ethnic background of consumers influence their behaviour in ethniehubs? The data are collected through observation, survey and focus group discussions of consumers at both Leichhardt and Cabramatta. The findings of this research have a number of implications for urban planning, i.e tourism, place branding and place marketing. By understanding the importance of the physical environment of ethnic stores, more considered architectural design and interior decoration will ensure that their most highly valued aspects are reinforced. This study also contributes to the knowledge of urban planning of ethniehub shopping precincts and ethnic stores decorations each of which has important social and economic consequences.

<p><!--[if gte mso 10]> <mce:style><! /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tableau Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0cm; mso-para-margin-right:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0cm; text-align:justify; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} > <! [endif] ></p><p>The way of consumption has changed. Now, consumers are not only rational when purchasing. They do not buy just for the functionality of the good or service they are looking for. The consumption is more affective and consumers are considered now as poly-sensorial entities that are looking for more emotional and sensorial stimulation during their purchase process. This evolution of consumption is part of the trend that is called "retailtainnment", a mixed of "Retail" and "Entertainment". It is a concept of distribution that combines both of those two activities. Earlier studies have shown the success of using the Sensory Marketing, a concept based on stimulating the five senses in a strategy view. But, if certain senses are heavily used by companies/brands, as the sight and hearing, some are still underused, as the touch, the taste and particularly the smell. Wherefore a study on scent marketing is considered relevant to measure the potential of it. Even if several studies have already explained the important role of smell in a company's strategy, only few of them are using it. Our paper aims to go further on this subject by understanding the scent marketing in stores through the aims, the obstacles, the techniques used, in Umeå, Sweden.</p><p> </p><p>For our research, we first had to collect knowledge from scientific articles and previous studies on odours, on smells or perfumes and on scent marketing. Then, we constructed three hypothesises that helped us to conduct our research and made conclusions. Those hypotheses will be discussed by conducting a mixed-method, that is to say by combining two types of researches: a quantitative one, mainly to measure how many stores are using smell as a marketing tool, and then a qualitative one to go deeper into the reasons and how those stores are applying it. The quantitative research, based on a deductive approach, was conducted by using questionnaires. The qualitative research, based on an inductive approach was conducted by making semi-constructed interview. Both types of data collected and analyzed enable us to draw conclusions about scent marketing in Umeå. In this paper we identify the stores in Umeå that have odours or perfumes, those that are using smell as a marketing tool and their reasons to use it or not.</p><p><--></p>