Thesis (doctoral)--Universität, Leipzig, 2002. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 399-448) and index.

My thesis examines the concept of sweetness as an aesthetic category in nineteenth-century British culture. My contention is that a link exists between the idea of sweetness as it appears in literary works and sugar as an everyday commodity with a complex history attached. Sugar had changed from being considered as a luxury in 1750 to a mass-market staple by the 1850s, a major cultural transition which altered the concept of sweetness as a taste. In the thesis I map the consequences of this shift as they are manifest in a range of texts from the period, alongside parallel changes in the aesthetic category of sweetness. I also assess the relationship between the material history of sweetness and the separate but related concept of aesthetic sweetness. In focussing on the relationship between sugar and sweetness in the Victorian period this thesis examines an area of nineteenth-century life that has previously never been subject to detailed study. Although several critics have explored the connection between sugar and concepts of sweetness as they relate to abolitionist debates in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, my focus differs in that I assert that other material histories of sugar played as significant a role in developing discourses of sweetness. Throughout this study, which spans the period 1780-1870, I draw on a range of sources across a variety of genres, including abolitionist pamphlets, medical textbooks, the novels of Charlotte Brontë and Wilkie Collins, the cultural criticism of Matthew Arnold and Walter Pater, and the poetry of Christina Rossetti and Algernon Charles Swinburne. I conclude that literary cultures in the nineteenth century increasingly use discourses of sugar to relate to the mass market and explore the commercialisation of literature, at a time when a growing commodity culture was seen as a threat to literary integrity.

The presented thesis deals with the issue of office room, offices, in the years 1580-1700. Its goal is to describe and interpret office equipment and office aids. The author used a number of preserved inventories from Bohemia and Moravia from the 16th and 17th centuries. The first chapter classifies the aristocratic residence into the resident network and deals with typology of seats. The second section discusses the usability of castle inventories and their problems. The third part describes topography and material culture of aristocratic offices. Next it focuses on the possible change of office space in a longer period of time. The last chapter compares office facilities to different categories. These include the social affiliation of the nobleman, his economic background and career as well as the type of residence. The conclusion summarizes the findings and presents opportunities for further research.

REGES, Luciana Meire Gomes. (Sobre) viver no Sertão: um estudo acerca das configurações sócio patrimoniais de Limoeiro/CE (1850-1884). 2014. 174f. – Dissertação (Mestrado) – Universidade Federal do Ceará, Programa de Pós-graduação em História, Fortaleza (CE), 2014. / Submitted by Márcia Araújo (marcia_m_bezerra@yahoo.com.br) on 2014-08-12T12:28:10Z No. of bitstreams: 1 2014_dis_lmgreges.pdf: 2497984 bytes, checksum: 201a54b6510cd0e8590a8d89aa56c02e (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Márcia Araújo(marcia_m_bezerra@yahoo.com.br) on 2014-08-12T12:28:41Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 2014_dis_lmgreges.pdf: 2497984 bytes, checksum: 201a54b6510cd0e8590a8d89aa56c02e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2014-08-12T12:28:41Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 2014_dis_lmgreges.pdf: 2497984 bytes, checksum: 201a54b6510cd0e8590a8d89aa56c02e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / This research aims understand and analyze the ways of life that constituted in forms of organization and the institution of familiar patrimony of people that had their assets inventoried of the Sertão de Limoeiro do Norte (CE) , in the period between the years 1850 to 1884.The analysis of family assets and of Material Culture from the Sertão de Limoeiro, in the second half of XXI century enables understand the typologies of familiar goods that constituted traces produced in social, economic and cultural, specific and dated environment. This study is grounded by the use of the inventories post-mortem, registers of travelers, parish register of land, 1872 census, parish registers (birth, marriage and death), president of the provincial report and statements and report of Câmara da Vila de Limoeiro about drought of 1877-79.They were essentials because they surround the object, allowing make reading about the material life of these individuals. The time frame elapses of the years 1850, with Lei de Terras, that sought establish a land organization in Brazil and it extends until 1884, year of the end of slavery in Ceará. These two marks were incisive for that occurred a social and economic reconfiguration in the acquired form by the familiar goods in this period. / Esse estudo objetiva compreender e analisar os modos de vida que se constituíam nas formas de organização e instituição do patrimônio familiar de indivíduos, que tiveram seus bens inventariados, do Sertão de Limoeiro (CE), no período que decorre entre os anos de 1850 a 1884. A análise dos patrimônios familiares, bem como, da Cultura Material do Sertão de Limoeiro, na conjuntura da segunda metade do século XIX, possibilita compreender as tipologias dos bens familiares, que constituem indícios produzidos no meio social, econômico e cultural, específicos e datados. Esse estudo é embasado pelo uso dos inventários post-mortem, relatos de viajantes, registros paroquias de terra, censo de 1872, registros paroquiais (nascimento, casamento e óbito), relatório de presidente de província e balanços e relatório da Câmara da Vila de Limoeiro acerca da Seca de 1877-79, essenciais, no sentido, que cercam o objeto, possibilitando construir leituras sobre a vida material desses indivíduos. A temporalidade recortada decorre dos anos de 1850, com a Lei de Terras, que buscava instituir uma organização fundiária no Brasil, e se estende até 1884, ano em que foi instituído o fim da escravidão no Ceará, pensando que esses dois marcos foram incisivos para que ocorresse uma (re)configuração social e econômica na forma adquirida pelos patrimônios familiares nesse período.

Si le bijou du dix-neuvième siècle abonde dans de nombreux ouvrages, il faut repenser son intrigue, son lexique et sa poétique. Dans une optique ontologique et grâce à un échange pluridisciplinaire permettant ainsi une ouverture à des processus de partages méthodologiques, cette thèse montre combien le bijou du dix-neuvième siècle est fortement connoté et possède une signification esthétique, sociale, géographique, politique et culturelle qui lui est propre. Cette étude prouve que le bijou tant en signe polysémique qu’en tant qu’ontologie cristallise les inquiétudes et les bouleversements relatifs à son siècle. Il permet de cerner une esthétique, un rapport au monde, au temps qui passe. Il est une clé, une façon d’être au monde, un pôle de compréhension. Il y a donc une interaction créatrice entre l’homme et sa parure. L’homme crée le bijou et le bijou crée l’homme en retour. Grâce à la mise en place d’une approche inédite et originale proposant de voir la bijouterie du dix-neuvième siècle comme une ontologie, le bijou est alors pensé comme un élément à part entière pour comprendre l’homme. Les bijoux ne sont pas là par hasard, ils véhiculent des sens cachés, des codes. Ils sont les référents immuables que cette étude se propose de nous faire découvrir. / If the jewel of the nineteenth century abounds in many works, we must rethink its plot, its lexicon and its poetics. From an ontological perspective and thanks to a multidisciplinary exchange thus allowing an opening to processes of methodological sharing, this thesis shows how much the jewel of the nineteenth century is strongly connoted and possesses an aesthetic, social, geographical, political and cultural significance of its own. This study proves that jewellery, both as a polysemic sign and as ontology, crystallizes the anxieties and upheavals relating to its century. It makes it possible to define an aesthetic, a relationship to the world, to the passing of time. It is a key, a way of being in the world, a pole of understanding. So there is a creative interaction between man and his finery. Man creates the jewel and the jewel creates man in return. Thanks to the implementation of a new and original approach proposing to see the jewellery of the nineteenth century as an ontology, the jewel is then thought as a whole element to understand the man. Jewels are not there by chance, they convey hidden meanings, codes. They are the unchanging referent that this study proposes to make us discover

A presente pesquisa propõe a análise das relações entre criadas e patroas, na cidade de São Paulo, entre as décadas de 1870 e 1920, a partir das diferenças étnicas, sociais e de gênero (re)produzpidas no espaço doméstico. Utilizando como principal corpo documental os manuais de prescrição de conduta (manuais de etiqueta, de economia doméstica, de puericultura e de higiene e saúde), o intuito é compreender a formação identitária a partir do uso de objetos e espaços, entendidos estes como indutores de comportamentos e hábitos corporais. / This work is an attempt to analyze the relations between servants and mistresses, in São Paulo, between the 1870s and 1920s, from ethnic, social and gender differences (re)produced in the household. Considering different kinds of manuals etiquette, housekeeping, childcare and hygiene and health we intend to understand how identities are connected with the use of objects and spaces in the house.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-08T16:35:10Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Raquel.pdf: 2115732 bytes, checksum: 05b8d2c59a22018f8fcaa39ae38f295c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-11-25 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The trajectory of the presence of the school desks in Santa Catarina is the object of this investigation, which embraces the period of 1836-1914. From this research, it was looked to identify aspects that characterize these furnishings in the beginning of the organization of the elementary schools in the state. They served like fountains of the inquiry: the education legislation of Santa Catarina, teachers' appearances, inspectors' reports, books of expenses and receipts of the province, besides other texts referring to school furnishings of the time. The work is organized in accordance with the functions that the school desks were assuming in the studied period from the imperial one to the republican , functions that were showing up during the research process. The support to make possible the writing, since up to that time one was learning specially reading, obliged the schools to have desk and not only banks. The teaching methods indicated in the legislation of Santa Catarina - the individual, the mutual and the simultaneous - brought significant indications on the object in question. The training and the hygiene of the bodies, constant preoccupations for the studied time, had great influence in the schools. The school desk was one of the products on which there were more interfering doctors, architects, teachers and studious. With the arrival of the school groups,great improvement was observed in the furnishings. Imported objects from the United States arrived in Santa Catarina, bringing refinement and sophistication. In the universal exhibitions, it was realized what they were showing, in the countries in which they were passing, many models and specifications of furniture for the schools, fact that was translated in significant changes in the scenery of the classrooms. The changes and permanencies in the material culture of the school along the time showed that the school desks are objects that characterize the classroom and that, organized in several ways, optimized the space and that spread beyond the schools walls of the schools / A trajetória da presença das carteiras escolares em Santa Catarina é o objeto de estudo desta investigação, que compreende o período de 1836-1914. Com o trabalho, buscou-se identificar aspectos que caracterizem este mobiliário no início da organização das escolas primárias no estado. Serviram como fontes da pesquisa a legislação educacional catarinense, pareceres de professores, relatórios de inspetores, livros de despesas e receitas da então província, além de outros textos referentes a mobiliário escolar da época. O trabalho está organizado de acordo com as funções que as carteiras escolares foram assumindo no período estudado do imperial ao republicano , funções que foram se evidenciando durante o processo de pesquisa. O apoio para possibilitar a escrita, já que até então se aprendia primordialmente a ler, obrigou as escolas a terem mesa e não somente bancos. Os métodos de ensino indicados na legislação catarinense - o individual, o mútuo e o simultâneo - trouxeram indicações significativas sobre o objeto em questão. O disciplinamento e a higienização dos corpos, preocupações constantes para a época estudada, tiveram grande influência nas escolas. A carteira escolar foi um dos artefatos sobre o qual mais interferiam médicos, arquitetos, professores e estudiosos. Com a chegada dos grupos escolares, observou-se grande melhoria no mobiliário. Objetos importados dos Estados Unidos chegaram a Santa Catarina, trazendo requinte e sofisticação. Nas exposições universais, percebeu-se que elas mostravam, pelos países em que passavam, muitos modelos e especificações de mobília para as escolas, fato que se traduziu em significativas mudanças no cenário das salas de aula. As mudanças e permanências na cultura material escolar ao longo do tempo mostraram que as carteiras escolares são objetos que caracterizam a sala de aula e que, organizadas de diversas formas, otimizaram o espaço e se espraiaram para além dos muros da escolas

Submitted by JEAN-JACQUES ARMAND VIDAL null (je.jacvi@yahoo.com.br) on 2017-05-17T01:26:09Z No. of bitstreams: 1 repositório Doutorado.pdf: 41703688 bytes, checksum: 81eff3f181fa51f11a08b3377f9188d4 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Luiz Galeffi (luizgaleffi@gmail.com) on 2017-05-17T12:34:53Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 vidal_jja_dr_ia.pdf: 41703688 bytes, checksum: 81eff3f181fa51f11a08b3377f9188d4 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-05-17T12:34:53Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 vidal_jja_dr_ia.pdf: 41703688 bytes, checksum: 81eff3f181fa51f11a08b3377f9188d4 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-03-14 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Este estudo propõe-se a apresentar a cerâmica de dois povos indígenas da Amazônia, os Paiter Suruí de Rondônia e os Asurini do Xingu. No caso dos Suruí, trata-se do ponto de vista dos homens, dois professores e lideranças, sobre o que representam na cultura Paiter Suruí as cerâmicas produzidas pelas ceramistas e sobre os desdobramentos de uma pesquisa feita em 2010 com as artistas Paiter Suruí (VIDAL, J., 2011). Para os Asurini, trata-se de uma pesquisa de campo e o estudo dos procedimentos de fabricação da cerâmica, as formas, os usos e a decoração dos vasilhames, tanto no ambiente domestico como ritualístico. Dá-se ênfase ao estudo dos grafismos pela sua importância nesta sociedade. Com base em quatro estudos recentes sobre cerâmica ameríndia (Karaja, Waúja, Palikur e Wayana) feitos por antropólogos, destaca-se a diversidade das produções cerâmicas indígenas e como ao longo da história pós contato elas passam por adaptações diversificadas, devido à comercialização dos artefatos produzidos. Tratamos de responder às perguntas: por que, como e em que condições a cerâmica indígena continua (ou não) a ser produzida? Por que ela resiste? / The aim of this paper is to present the pottery of two indigenous tribes of the Amazon, the Paiter Suruí from Rondônia, and the Asurini from Xingu. In the case of the Suruí tribe, it is considered the point of view of two men, two professors and leaders, showing what the pottery produced by the artisans represent to the Paiter Suruí culture, as well as the results of a research done in 2010 with the artisans in the Paiter Suruí tribe (VIDAL, J., 2011). For the Asurini, the approach is a field research as well as the analysis of the procedures for the manufacturing of the pottery, its shapes, the uses and the decoration of the containers, both in the domestic and the ritualistic environments. Emphasis is placed upon the study of the graphics due to its importance in that society. Based on four recent studies of the Amerindian pottery (Karajas, Waúja, Palikur and Wayana) carried out by anthropologists, one should highlight the diversity of the indigenous pottery production, and how it has gone through different adaptations throughout the post-contact history due to the commercialization of the items. We try to answer the questions: why, how and under what conditions is indigenous pottery still (or not) being produced? Why does it resist?

CAPES / Neste trabalho tenho como objetivo evidenciar as imbricações entre cultura material e as relações de gênero, problematizando a construção de representações de masculinidades em ambientes comerciais destinados exclusivamente ao público masculino. O recorte de estudo está centrado nos projetos publicitário e de arquitetura de interiores da Barbearia Clube, inaugurada em Curitiba no ano de 2007. O planejamento destes projetos foi articulado com um ideal de masculinidade chamado de “homem clássico”, caracterizado por atributos como “macho”, “tradicional” e “sem frescura, que serviu de base para o desenvolvimento dos materiais de comunicação e da decoração da barbearia. Os projetos publicitário e de arquitetura de interiores são analisados neste trabalho por meio das narrativas obtidas mediante entrevistas com os (as) envolvidos (as) nos projetos, da leitura de imagens veiculadas nos materiais gráficos de divulgação da Barbearia Clube, assim como por meio de imagens obtidas mediante o registro fotográfico em visitas realizadas ao estabelecimento. Com essas análises tenho como objetivo evidenciar o caráter de construto social das prescrições de gênero, assim como o papel fundamental dos artefatos na construção dos sujeitos e de suas identidades. / My goal in this dissertation is to expose the imbrications between material culture and gender relationships by approaching the construction of depictions of masculinities at store environments designed exclusively for male customers. The scope of study is centered on the advertising and interior design projects of Barbearia Clube, opened in Curitiba in 2007. The planning of these projects hinged on a masculinity ideal called “classic man”, presenting features such as “manly”, “traditional” and “with no frills”, which became the foundation for the development of the barber shop’s communication signs and decoration. The analysis of the advertising and interior design projects is carried out through statements obtained in interviews with the persons involved in the projects, the assessment of images applied in Barbearia Clube advertisement pieces, as well as images obtained by photographic process in visits to the premises. With this analysis I aim to expose the social construct character from gender prescriptions as well as the fundamental role of artifacts in the construction of subjects and their identities.

CAPES / A pesquisa que documento por meio deste texto tem como objetivo investigar como o trabalho e os artefatos são constituídos na fábrica Zeferino, Novo Hamburgo, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil. Desta maneira, explorei as maneiras pelas quais os modelistas e o estilista que atuam nesta empresa constroem suas práticas em meio a embates e tensões. Para isto, percorri uma trajetória que apresenta a marca e a fábrica Zeferino, bem como os (as) interlocutores (as) que participaram do estudo. Da mesma forma apresento os artefatos e os modos particulares do fazer deste microcosmos para, enfim, discutir os embates por meio dos quais o trabalho e os artefatos ali se constituem. Os procedimentos que realizei para a elaboração desta pesquisa qualitativa foram experiências empíricas exploratórias e entrevistas narrativas ao modo da História Oral. Tomei as narrativas do processo de desenvolvimento de modelos para explorar os momentos de embates com a finalidade de interpretar os sentidos atribuídos pelos interlocutores a estas tensões e conflitos. Tive assim a intenção de montar uma imagem tanto do processo de desenvolvimento como dos interlocutores que permita perceber seus modos singulares de trabalho, seus fazeres e saberes, evidenciando a não homogeneidade das formas de produção de artefatos. / The research I have documented through this text aims at investigating on how the work and artifacts are made at the Zeferino factory, Novo Hamburgo, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil. Thus, I have explored the ways in which both the modelers and the designer work in this company build their practices in the midst of clashes and tensions. For this, I follow a journey that presents the brand and Zeferino factory, as well as the interlocutors who participated in the study. Likewise, I present artifacts and the particular ways of doing this microcosm to, finally, discuss the struggles through which the work and the artifacts are made there. The procedures conducted for the preparation of this qualitative research were exploratory empirical experiences and narratives interviews on the model of Oral History. I took the narratives of the model development process in order to explore the moments of these conflicts, to interpret the meanings attributed by the interlocutors to these tensions and conflicts. So I intend to set up an image from the development process as well as from the interlocutors which enables individuals to realize their unique work modes, their activities and knowledge, showing the inhomogeneity of the ways of production of artifacts.