The objective of this work is to evaluate, through the Environmental-SCP model, the strategies adopted by a Brazilian textile company. In this context, it shows a longitudinal analysis of environmental strategies adopted by the company for eleven years, from 1996 to 2006. The research was based on an environmental strategy evaluation model, called Environmental-SCP model, proposed by Abreu (2001). The model links environmental performance to the conducts of the companies exposed to the pressure of the industry in which they operate. Thus, it was identified the environmental pressures, conducts and performance of the company in the last eleven years. Finally, this work presents the companyÂs strategic positioning, in the last eleven years, face to environmental questions. This strategic positioning is determined from the matrix that clusters companies depending on their environmental behavior and industry structure pressure according to Environmental-SCP. The analyzed company is a large scale textile firm in Cearà state that maintains an environmental management system certified according to ISO 14001 since 2001. The data were collected through document analysis and structured interviews with employees. The data were organized in electronic spreadsheets for qualitative and quantitative analysis. From this analysis, three stages of environmental strategy were identified in this period. The first stage management was unaware of environment-related pressures and merely adopted environmental conducts with the aim of acquiring obligatory environmental license. In the second stage, the perception of external though as yet unthreatening pressures led to the implementation of an environmental management system. In the third stage, as response to increased environmental pressures threatening the companyÂs competitiveness and in consideration to demands expressed by stakeholders, management adopted environmental conducts while making processes more efficient and created a competitive advantage. This study showed the companyÂs change from relative indifference to an environmentally responsible attitude harmonizing pollution prevention and increased process efficiency. / O trabalho tem por objetivo avaliar, à luz do modelo ECP-Ambiental, as estratÃgias adotadas por uma empresa tÃxtil. Neste contexto, apresenta uma anÃlise longitudinal das estratÃgias ambientais adotadas por uma empresa tÃxtil ao longo de onze anos, compreendidos entre o perÃodo de 1996 a 2006. A pesquisa foi elaborada a partir do modelo de avaliaÃÃo da estratÃgia ambiental ECPAmbiental, proposto por Abreu (2001). Com base neste modelo, a partir das pressÃes da estrutura da indÃstria, a empresa reage adotando condutas ambientais que por sua vez, afetam sua performance ambiental. Dentro deste contexto, foram identificadas as pressÃes, condutas e performance ambiental da empresa e a partir desta, determinados os Ãndices e a evoluÃÃo da pressÃo, da conduta e da performance para os Ãltimos onze anos. Por fim, o trabalho apresenta o posicionamento estratÃgico adotado pela empresa, nos Ãltimos onze anos, frente Ãs questÃes ambientais. Este posicionamento estratÃgico à determinado a partir da matriz que relaciona a pressÃo da estrutura da indÃstria com a conduta ambiental, desenvolvida a partir do modelo ECP-Ambiental. A empresa objeto deste estudo à uma empresa tÃxtil de grande porte, que possui significativa representatividade na economia do Estado do Cearà e mantÃm um sistema de gestÃo ambiental certificado na norma ISO 14001 desde 2001. A coleta de dados foi realizada por meio de anÃlise documental e aplicaÃÃo de um instrumento de coleta de dados atravÃs de entrevistas com funcionÃrios da empresa. Os dados coletados foram tabulados em planilhas eletrÃnicas, nas quais foram realizadas anÃlises qualitativa e quantitativa. A partir destas anÃlises, constatou-se que a empresa ao longo desses onze anos, passou por trÃs estÃgios: o primeiro foi caracterizado pela nÃo percepÃÃo das pressÃes ambientais, desta forma a conduta ambiental adotada era voltada ao atendimento aos requisitos do licenciamento ambiental; o segundo foi aquele em que as pressÃes ambientais foram percebidas de forma a nÃo oferecer risco à competitividade da empresa, as condutas ambientais neste estÃgio estavam voltadas à implantaÃÃo de um sistema de gestÃo ambiental; o terceiro estÃgio foi caracterizado pela percepÃÃo por parte da empresa de uma pressÃo ambiental que oferecia risco à sua competitividade, como resposta a empresa adotou condutas ambientais que atendessem as necessidades das partes interessadas e melhorassem a eficiÃncia dos processos, de forma a gerar vantagem competitiva frente aos concorrentes. No tocante à estratÃgia ambiental, a pesquisa identificou uma evoluÃÃo do posicionamento estratÃgico, migrando de uma situaÃÃo de indiferenÃa frente Ãs questÃes ambientais, para uma atuaÃÃo responsÃvel, na qual aliou prevenÃÃo da poluiÃÃo à melhoria na eficiÃncia dos processos.

Esse trabalho objetivou investigar o potencial dos extratos aquosos das cascas de barbatimão (Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville) e sangra dágua (Croton urucurana Baill.) como corante natural têxtil. Os extratos foram caracterizados quanto ao pH, o teor de sólidos totais e a estabilidade no armazenamento. Os extratos foram liofilizados e avaliados por espectroscopia no infravermelho com transformada de Fourier (FTIR), termogravimetria (TG) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). Foram realizados experimentos preliminares de tingimento em tecidos multifibra e em diferentes concentrações dos extratos. A partir desses experimentos, foram definidas as variáveis temperatura, tempo e concentração do extrato para o estudo do tingimento por planejamento experimental 2³, em tecidos 100 % algodão e 100 % lã. Os tecidos tingidos em condição otimizada, sem e com mordentes metálicos, foram avaliados quanto à cor, a solidez de cor à luz, à lavagem, à fricção e ao suor. Os efluentes foram coletados e caracterizados quanto ao pH, turbidez, sólidos totais dissolvidos (STD), oxigênio dissolvido, demanda bioquímica de oxigênio (DBO), demanda química de oxigênio (DQO) e teores de ferro e alumínio dissolvidos. Foram conduzidos ensaios bacteriológicos nos extratos aquosos, etanólicos e liofilizados e nos tecidos tingidos. Os resultados das análises por FTIR indicaram a presença de taninos, lignina e celulose nos extratos. Pelo estudo de estabilidade os extratos possuem duração de 42 dias. Nas análises por TG, os extratos obtiveram perda de massa total similares e não geraram alteração na degradação dos tecidos tingidos. Na análise por DSC os extratos obtiveram picos endotérmico e exotérmixo em temperaturas próximas. As melhores condições para o tingimento dos tecidos avaliados é em 98 °C, por 60 min e na concentração de 100 % do extrato. A solidez de cor dos tecidos tingidos variou de baixa a excelente. Os extratos liofilizados apresentaram propriedades antibacterianas. Os efluentes apresentaram valores de STD, DBO, DQO e alumínio e ferro dissolvidos acima dos limites determinados pela legislação nacional. De modo geral, os resultados obtidos indicam que os extratos das cascas de barbatimão e sangra dágua são promissores para serem utilizados como corantes naturais têxteis / This research aimed to investigate the potential of aqueous extracts of barbatimão (Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville) and sangra dágua (Croton urucurana Baill.) bark as natural textile dyes. The extracts were characterized for pH, total solids content and storage stability. The extracts were lyophilized and evaluated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Preliminary dyeing experiments were carried out on multifiber fabrics and at different extracts concentrations. From these experiments, the variables temperature, time and concentration of the extract for the study of dyeing by experimental design 2³ in 100 % cotton and 100 % wool fabrics were defined. Fabrics dyed in optimized condition, using metal mordants and with no mordents, were evaluated by colorimetry, color fastness to light, wash, rubbing and perspiration. The effluents were collected and characterized by pH, turbidity, total dissolved solids (TDS), dissolved oxygen, biochemical oxygen demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD) and dissolved iron and aluminum contents. Bacteriological tests were conducted on aqueous, ethanolic and lyophilized extracts and on dyed fabrics. The results of the FTIR analysis indicated the presence of tannins, lignin and cellulose in the extracts. By the stability study were found that the extracts have a duration of 42 days. In the TG analyzes, the extracts obtained similar total mass loss and did not generate alteration in the degradation of the dyed fabrics. In the DSC analysis the extracts obtained endothermic and exotherm peaks at near temperatures. The optimized dyeing for the evaluated fabrics is at 98 °C for 60 min and at the concentration of 100 % of the extract. The color fastness of the dyed fabrics ranged from low to excellent. Lyophilized extracts showed antibacterial properties. The wastewater showed values of TDS, BOD, COD and aluminum and iron dissolved above the limits determined by national legislation. In general, the results indicate that barbatimão and sangra dágua extracts are promising for use as natural textile dyes

O estudo trata da análise estrutural dentro da indústria têxtil para mapeamento dos grupos estratégicos. O objetivo foi construir mapas dos grupos estratégicos para análise das vantagens e desvantagens competitivas da indústria têxtil. Este trabalho se constitui de pesquisa bibliográfica referendada em autores que tratam dos temas administração estratégica e competitividade, na edição especial da revista Exame Melhores e Maiores dos anos de 2009, 2010, 2011 e 2012 e nos relatórios setoriais da indústria têxtil brasileira editados pelo Instituto de Estudos e Marketing Industrial (IEMI), a fim de construir um mapa dos grupos estratégicos da indústria têxtil. Os resultados mostraram que o grau de verticalização das empresas têxteis é diretamente proporcional a sua participação de mercado, levando a entender que a estratégia de verticalização é exitosa. / The study deals with the structural analysis inside the textile industry for the mapping of strategical groups. The aim was to build a map of those groups in order to make an analysis of competitive advantages and disadvantages of the textile industry. This work constitutes a bibliographic research refereed on authors that deal with the themes Strategical Administration and Competitiveness, on the special edition of a magazine called Exame Melhores e Maiores the years 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 and on sector reports of Brazilian Textile Industry edited by Instituto de Estudos e Marketing Industrial IEMI (Industrial Marketing and Studies Institute), in order to build a map about strategical groups of textile industry. The results indicate that the textiles companies verticalization process is the consequence of their ranking in the market, demonstrating that the verticalization process can be an effective one.

De modo a enfrentar os atuais desafios da competitividade, as organizações têm cada vez mais percebido a importância de agregar valor através da diferenciação de seus produtos e serviços. O caminho trilhado para promover esta mudança de posicionamento baseia-se na indução, desenvolvimento e difusão de inovações de caráter tecnológico, organizacional e de modelos de negócios. Este cenário pode ser ainda mais crítico em setores tradicionalmente não intensivos em inovações e que enfrentam a concorrência por preços de produtos estrangeiros. A indústria têxtil brasileira é um exemplo destes setores em dificuldades e tem se movimentado ou sido alvo de ações por parte de organismos públicos com o foco no desenvolvimento de inovações. Nos últimos anos muitos estudos foram publicados na tentativa de entender os fatores e variáveis que conduzem a inovações com resultados positivos para as empresas. Com o objetivo de contribuir com esses estudos, esta dissertação analisa as relações entre fatores organizacionais, tecnológicos e práticas estratégicas de inovação com o desempenho inovativo das empresas têxteis brasileiras. Para avaliar as proposições estabelecidas, esta pesquisa adotou uma abordagem quantitativa, com um levantamento (survey) junto a 51 (cinquenta e uma) empresas. Para a coleta de dados, foi elaborado um instrumento de pesquisa (questionário) com base em literatura que embasa o tema. Os resultados apontam significância estatística para variáveis que impactam positivamente as empresas têxteis brasileiras: porte por número de funcionários, envolvimento de parceiros externos, ambiente de estímulo à inventividade, foco em requisitos do mercado, rápidos ciclos de desenvolvimento de produtos, obtenção e uso de novas tecnologias. A conclusão revela que as proposições da pesquisa se confirmaram parcialmente, mas não foram encontradas equações explicativas que levassem ao desempenho inovativo sob os cinco aspectos medidos: evolução de market-share; atendimento de necessidades de clientes; faturamento por novos produtos ou processos; produtos e processos sustentáveis; e oferta de preços competitivos. / In order to face actual competition challenges, firms have been noticing the importance of creating value through differentiation of products and services. The way to promote this positioning change is based on induction, development and diffusion of technological, organizational and business modeling innovations. This context can be even more critical when related to traditional industries not intensive in innovations and that face the concurrency of prices with stranger products. Brazilian textile industry is an example of these sectors with difficulties and it has been acting or been objective of public moves towards the developing of innovations. In the last years many studies have been published in attempt to understand the factors and variables that conduct to innovations with positive results to the firms. Focusing on contribution to these studies, this thesis analyses the relations between organizational factors, technological factors and innovation strategic practices with Brazilian textile firms innovative performance. To assess the established propositions, this research has adopted a quantitative approach through a survey conducted with 51 (fifty one) firms. Data collection has been supported by a research instrument (questionnaire) based on the subject literature. The results point to statistical significance on variables that positively impact on Brazilian textile firms: size in terms of number of employees, collaboration with extern partners, creativity stimulating environment, focus on market requirements, quick product development cycles, acquisition and use of new technologies. Conclusions reveals that the research propositions were partially confirmed, but there were not found explicative equations to justify innovative performance related to five measured indicators: market-share evolution; clients needs attendance; revenue based on new products or processes; sustainable products and processes; and offer of competitive prices.

The purpose of the study is to map the current situation of Corporate Social Responsibility in the Estonian textile and clothing industry. As the importance of the Estonian textile and clothing industry is decreasing, CSR is becoming more important to implement as it is argued to increase competitiveness. The study investigates how CSR is perceived by the biggest textile and clothing companies in Estonia through analysing the understanding, attitudes, activities, drivers and barriers of CSR. A qualitative research strategy and multiple-case study research design was used when conducting the study. Six representatives of Estonian textile and clothing companies were interviewed using a semi-structured interview type. The data was analysed using a pattern-matching technique. In order to draw cross-case conclusions, a cross-case analysis was performed as well. The understanding of CSR is fairly extensive among the participating companies. CSR is perceived to be important for improving a company’s competitiveness and reputation. The activities that are considered most important to engage in include activities to improve the well-being of employees and contribute to the society and community. The strongest barrier to implementing CSR is its cost and lack of governmental support. The main drivers are considered to be attracting the best employees and improving the satisfaction of existing ones, improving reputation and gaining a competitive advantage.

M.A. / This dissertation comprises an in-depth investigation into the domain of computer vision, with specific reference to the textile industry. The study consists of three main sections. In the first section, the computer-vision process is scrutinised in its entirety. Attention is given in this regard to what computer vision is, where it originated from, how it compares with human vision and what the motivations are for its implementation. Following, the computer-vision process is divided into four main components, namely image acquisition, image processing, image analysis and image interpretation. Subsequently, each component is discussed in greater detail, as well as aspects such as the hardware used in the course of the process, the algorithms that are implemented and the specific applications used for the process of analysis. In the second section, the focus is shifted to the textile industry, where our main focus lies. In this regard, examples are examined of the successful implementation of computer-vision technologies in the textile industry. In the third section, an investigation is launched into the specific problem for which a solution needs to be found in the present study, namely to determine whether computer vision constitutes a cost-effective way in which to locate broken thread during the spinning process. A wide range of algorithms has been applied for this purpose, whereafter the results of these experiments are announced.

The diploma thesis on topic Cost management in MOIRA CZ company has a goal to desribe costs, procedure of anylising these costs for very this company. In the opening of my literature search is spoken about kinds of costs and their calculation. In practical section of this thesis the focus is on analysing calculation important sorting of a costs in company. The part of this analysis is calculation of products which are being used in company along with their intermediate products. Every chapter has its own summarization, eventually recommendation. At the end of the thesis is summarization of the study as a whole and valuation alon with suggestion on how to improve in specific areas.

This is a study of the relationship between approaches to people management and competitiveness, by examining the case of the textile and clothing industry in Southern Africa. The textile and clothing industry has historically played a major role in many national economies (including many southern African countries) contributing not only to overall economic growth, but also to the creation of significant numbers of relatively well-paid jobs. In the Southern African Region (SAR), the textile and clothing industry has undergone many structural pressures in the face of increased cheap imports from South-East Asian countries – above all, China and Bangladesh - which have resulted in the closure of many firms, and the significant downsizing of many survivors. This study seeks to explore the relationship between HR practice and organizational sustainability in the textile and clothing industry in Southern Africa region, with a particular emphasis on the cases of three countries: South Africa, Mauritius and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Whilst at very different stages of national development, and with distinct political and developmental histories, all three countries were subject to active industrial policies, including the development of national clothing and textile industries. Again, all have faced the challenge of sustaining these industries in the face of liberalization and intensive competition from the Far East. This study is based on a multi-method approach, combining in-depth interviews with national industry surveys, and the usage of relevant documentary sources. It takes cognizance of the increasing relevance of new HRM practices and discourses to the growing field of Development Studies in the 21st century. The existing HRM literature suggests that there are a number of alternative people management strategies through which firms may secure their competitiveness, most notably strategic approaches to hard HRM (which treats people as an instrument to be strategically deployed to promote competitiveness), soft HRM (which promotes cooperative approaches to managing people) and traditional labour repression (managing people simply as a cost, to be managed in a short-term, un-strategic manner). The literature on HRM in Africa has suggested an alternative paradigm, which combines autocratic paternalism with elements of communitarianism. This study found that the bulk of firms encompassed by the study employed HR policies that recognizably fell within the soft HRM paradigm, enabling high value added production. However, an important exception lies in the area of security of tenure: firms tended to combine high levels of employee involvement and participation; as well as a commitment to human resource development, along with a persistent reliance on the usage of redundancies to adjust changes in the relative need for labour. Hence, this study highlights the limitations of theoretical approaches which see HR strategies as being necessarily coherent and self-reinforcing. Firms may broadly adhere to one approach, whilst adopting aspects of another as needs arise and in response to external pressures. An important exception to this was Mauritius, in which security of tenure appeared to be stronger, perhaps owing to the greater ease of enforcing regulations against illegal imports in a relatively small island country by allowing firms to plan for the future with greater confidence. In contrast, firms in South Africa were characterized by much lower security of tenure, against a backdrop of declining profits, reflecting the competitive challenges posed not only by legitimate low cost imports, but also illegal imports and the proliferation of rural sweatships. One again, this study highlights the relative fragility of the position of many firms and the continued importance of governmental support, most notably in terms of export incentives, support and facilitation in the adoption of new technologies, as well as better policing against illegal imports.

The thesis deals with the elements of strategy of market entrance to Vienna. The aim was to determine whether a Czech company pietro filipi has a chance to succeed in such a saturated market and if yes, under what circumstances. The work is divided into five chapters, where the general theory is included concerning the access to foreign markets, followed by the application of theoretical knowledge directly to the practice and it is immediately applied to a concrete example. In this work we come up with two conclusions. One is that pietro filipi should not entry the market of Vienna because of the lack of financial resources and should invest in running business in countries of Eastern and Central Europe, or if it had unlimited financial resources, pietro filipi would be able to invest in opening a store in Vienna. Although we emphasize that this could be the risk anyway. pietro filipi should consider its options and make a decision if it wants to take such a risk of entering the market of Vienna or stay in a less risky environment of Eastern and Central Europe.

Submitted by Nadir Basilio (nadirsb@uninove.br) on 2016-06-07T16:10:38Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Luana Ferreira Salles.pdf: 1041958 bytes, checksum: 876e572b320e5e6db7b2978c6e9f7c80 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-06-07T16:10:38Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Luana Ferreira Salles.pdf: 1041958 bytes, checksum: 876e572b320e5e6db7b2978c6e9f7c80 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-06-25 / A company may go through an organizational decline due to Internal and external factors or both. Data show the alarming frequency of companies that deal with extreme situations of decline to the point of closing their businesses or filing for bankruptcy. The literature in this area indicates that organizational decline can be identified years before the crisis to be fully established and the sooner managers identify and tackle the greater the chances of success in a turnaround process. Considering this context, this paper has the main objective to understand the strategic actions of the textile industries that suffered from organizational decline. To fulfill this purpose a descriptive qualitative research will be conducted using the technique of multi-case study of companies in the textile segment. This segment was selected due to its high socioeconomic representation in the country. Moreover, this sector is undergoing a major transformation, which causes a need for companies to review their business models to sustain in the market. / Fatores internos e externos ou ambos podem levar uma companhia a passar pelo declínio organizacional. Dados mostram a frequência alarmante de empresas que lidam com situações extremas de declínio a ponto de encerrar suas atividades ou entrar com um pedido de recuperação judicial. A literatura da área aponta que o declínio organizacional pode ser identificado anos antes de a crise estar completamente instaurada na organização e quanto antes os gestores identificarem e a enfrentarem maiores são as chances de sucesso em um processo de turnaround. Considerando este contexto, o presente trabalho tem por objetivo central compreender as ações estratégicas das indústrias têxteis que lidam com o declínio organizacional. Para cumprir com este propósito, foi realizada uma pesquisa qualitativa descritiva, através da técnica de estudo multicaso de empresas do segmento têxtil. Este segmento foi selecionado devido à sua alta representatividade socioeconômico no país. Além disso, este setor está sofrendo uma grande transformação, o que ocasiona uma necessidade das empresas reverem seus modelos de negócio para se manter no mercado.