Throughout history, skin manipulation was primarily practiced for cultural, tribal, or religious purposes. In the contemporary landscape, skin manipulation has been objectified and commercialized. This is exemplified through bio-upholstery, foreign materials under our skin and changing the skin structure. This thesis investigates skin manipulation, with the intent to focus experimentation on the skin’s lines of cleavage, a topographical map drawn on our skin and used to define the direction where skin has the most and least flexibility. The aim is to connect and explore materials that can be used as a second skin, while at the same time examining and utilizing the lines of cleavage found within the structure of skin. The focus of this thesis is to examine the potential of different materials, as a second skin that enhances our skin and its properties of protection. Through experimentation I aim to explore an alternate second skin’s function, through a series of experiments that address flexibility, protection, and memory.

Beowulf presents a literary starting point in the discussion of peace weaving, reflecting the primary focus of Anglo Saxon epic poetry on the male hero rather than the peace weaver. Scholarship on peace weaving figures in the poem tend to negatively perceive the lack of female presence, and determine the tradition as one set up for failure. Adding historical peace weavers like Queen Emma to the discourse encourages scholars to view smaller successes, like temporary peace, as building on each other to ultimately cause the peace weaver to be successful at her task. From studying the life of Queen Emma, the continuous struggle of such a figure to be an influential presence in her nation is more evident. Combining the images of peace weaving set down by literature and then history prove that figures participating in the tradition are as vital to the heroic world as the warrior himself.

Sericulture is an important agro industry in Indian economy. Reeling sector is a vital component of sericulture linking the agriculture based activity of cocoon production with the industrial activity of fabric production. Reeling converts the cocoons into raw silk yam. Karnataka contributes about 63% of the silk production of the country and therefore the present study is focused on the silk reeling industry of Karnataka. Silk reeling sector, though provides a vital transformation, appear to be the weakest link owing to its innumerable problems and the limited value addition that takes place. Problems are associated with raw material availability, working capital constraints, marketing and quality related aspects. Reeling sector is input dependent activity and its operations are influenced heavily by three factors viz., cocoon quality, cocoon price and cocoon supply. However, there has not been adequate thrust on quality due to the absence of quality based price fixation. Absence of quality based pricing has been a major deterrent factor in the pursuit for quality improvement. The seasonality associated with cocoon quality, cocoon supply and price as also the raw silk price almost always determine the fate of reeling activity. Being aware of the limited research done in respect of Indian silk industry, an elaborate literature review in the area of economics and management aspects of the silk industry in general and silk reeling operations in particular, was made. Studies on the economics of reeling operations done in the past indicate negative net revenue for the reeling units. However, if the reeling industry has survived over the years, it cannot be in spite of the loss. The industry has to breakeven over a period of time to consolidate the gains, however meagre. So, it is worthwhile to study the economics of silk reeling industry over a sufficient period of time, that is enough to include a cycle of seasonality, be it with respect to cocoon quality, cocoon availability, cocoon price, raw silk demand or raw silk price. In addition, if the element of uncertainties at varying points of time is included to study their effect on reeling economics, it makes the study more meaningful. It may be noted that, the variations in cocoon price over a period of time are dictated by the seasonality with respect to cocoon supply and demand. With regard to the variations in cocoon price at a given point of time (within a season), price differential between the cocoon lots appears to be largely due to its quality. A study of the inter relationship between cocoon quality, its quantity and price as also raw silk price is important. It is therefore felt that, the relationship between the cost of cocoons, cocoon quality and its productivity, when built into the determination of reeling economics, the analysis will be more realistic. A study of a typical reeling unit, to unearth the intricacies of operations and decision-making in the light of the volatile situation in the industry forms a pre requisite for a clear understanding of its functioning. Since reeling activity is highly input dependent, ignoring the aspects of the input market dynamics would not yield a holistic perspective of the operations. If one has to study and understand the market dynamics, the attributes of the commodity transacted should be clearly known. The commodity in question here is cocoon. The quality of cocoons does not have a unique expression, either to consider as a variable for studying the relationships in the market or as an input into the production process or as a yardstick for commercial transactions. The thesis thus deals with three major aspects of silk reeling industry in Karnataka, relating to the quality of raw material, dynamics of market transactions and analysis of the day to day operations of a typical silk reeling unit. There are around five quality parameters used for testing the quality of cocoons and each of them has a certain dimension of importance in defining the quality of cocoons. The procedures followed in Japan and China are not readily adaptable for Indian conditions. Therefore, an attempt has been made to develop a unique measure of cocoon quality under Indian conditions both from the point of view of appropriateness of representation as also the ease of determination commercially. In view of the importance of shell ratio 9c (SR%) and defective cocoon % (DC%) in representing the quality of cocoons, these two quality parameters are used for fixing the cocoon quality index. The statistical technique chosen for developing the Cocoon Quality Index (CQI) is discriminant analysis. Data on SR% and DC9c in respect of a sample of around 40,000 lots of multibi cocoons spanning a period of two years were collected for the analysis. The objective was to group the cocoons into low, medium and high quality in addition to arriving at a discriminant function to represent the quality index from SR% and DC% as independent variables. The analysis has contributed in establishing an index for assessing and grading the quality of, both mutibi and bivoltine cocoons in the Indian context. The study has also brought to focus the fact that, SR% and DC% adequately represent the quality of cocoons. As an extension of the objective, the commercial application of CQI as a means of price fixation mechanism in the cocoon markets has been illustrated. An analysis of the quality of cocoon lots presently being transacted in Karnataka has been made. The study of the market dynamics focused first on estimation of the relationship between cocoon price and its quality and supply (quantity) and then establishment of the causal relationship between cocoon price and silk price. Day wise aggregate data were used in. these two instances. In addition, the relationship between lot size, quality and price of cocoons being transacted in the cocoon markets has been established using the lot wise micro level data. The interrelationships of the various time series data have been studied through ARIMA analysis. The asymmetry in response of raw silk price to changes in cocoon price has been studied. The study enabled the identification of the determinants of cocoon price and raw silk price which are the major factors contributing to the revenue of a silk reeling unit. The capability of the buyers to assess the quality of cocoons subjectively even in the absence of an analytical system, speaks about the experience and expertise of the reelers. The supply quantity of cocoons largely influences the cocoon price. The dependence of raw silk price on cocoon price indicates the predominance of the supply side of the industry. The symmetry in the response of raw silk price to changes in cocoon price has also been established. The problems typical of a reeling unit merit the application of simulation technique in order to gain insights into the operations of a reeling unit. Discrete Event System Simulation has been used with fixed time increment approach and terminating criteria. The operations of a typical silk reeling unit have been simulated for a period of one whole year. A typical model based on the heuristic thinking of reelers to reflect the practices ingrained in the reeling units has been developed. The strategies they adopt to counter the vagaries of their operations have also been considered. Silk reeling being an input controlled industry, the heuristics of cocoon buying decision has been incorporated as the core of the model. The heuristics are derived from discussions with several prominent reelers and observation of their operations. The model tries to incorporate the volatile situation of the cocoon market and the raw silk sale price as also the constraints of working capital and the decision the reeler tends to take under these conditions. Standard procedures of simulation viz., variance reduction techniques, verification and validation of simulation model etc. have been followed. Simulation experiments have been made considering the factors of strategies, working capital borrowed money and installed capacity, in order to study its influence on the performance of a reeling unit. The simulation experimental data have been initially subjected to rnultivariate analysis and later to univariate ANOVA for each of the two response variables viz., cumulative net revenue and cumulative capacity utilisation. The unique relationship between revenue and capacity utilisation indicated a trade-off between the two. The reeling unit has to aim at maximising utilisation without major setbacks in revenue. It has been found that the capacity utilisation of a reeling unit is influenced more significantly by the factors or parameters of the model viz., strategy, working capital, and borrowed money and plant capacity, while the variables of the model viz., cocoon price, CQI and raw silk price influence cumulative net revenue. The importance of cocoon quality for better economics of production has been clearly established which should serve as a guiding factor for cocoon buying decision. An interesting result is that when there is adequate working capital, a bigger batch size for raw silk sales earns higher net revenue. The seasonality in net revenue is overwhelming in all the cases. The reeling unit has positive net revenue in the first six months with a few ups and downs and the gain it had consolidated slowly reduces before stabilising at a relatively lower level. The important contributions are the development of a quality index for grading of cocoons, establishment of the interrelationships among cocoon price, its quality and supply quantity as also the relationship between cocoon price and raw silk price. The much needed insight into the operations of a reeling unit has been provided by the simulation analysis. For the first time it has been established that, reeling units do make profits from the primary product. The model incorporated good management decision making for the purchase of cocoons and handling of working capital and other operations.

The need for innovative lightweight materials are rapidly increased in the recent years, owing to their cost-effective, high-strength, environmentally-sound use of materials and process technologies, in addition to that they reduce the weight of a product. The characteristics of 3D-spacer fabrics as one of the most important lightweight materials in future are multifaceted not only owing to its extremely light materials, but also because of exceptionally high stiffness to weight ratio compared to other constructions. It is also one possible method for improving the properties of fabric-reinforced composites. It can enhance the through-the-thickness properties, such as shear strength, dimensional stability, damage, tolerance, and fracture toughness that are critical for many structural applications. Spacer fabric has been employed in high-technology applications because of its critical mechanical properties related to high tensile strength, tear strength and stiffness. Furthermore, its multidirectional structures allow with more reinforcement along the thickness direction leading to an increase in stiffness and strength properties. The fundamental aim of this thesis exists in the development of a new kind of woven spacer fabrics for the light weight composites materials, in an effort to weave spacer fabrics that can not be realized with the old technology which are mentioned above. Therefore, the work in brief focuses on two main goals: 1. Development of a new kind of spacer fabrics for composites in the lightweight constructions. 2. Development of special devices of a narrow weaving machine for standing the process of the new kind of spacer fabrics production. The slippage strength test had to be carried out for the floated warp yarns through the ground fabrics by using different elements of woven fabric structures variables represented in different fabric constructions, different weft densities and different repeats of constructions by using different materials. The importance of this test related to the backward-movement of the floated warp yarns which is the crucial stage in the weaving process of spacer fabrics during the backward-movement. The results of this test determine the required forces for the backward-movement, on the other side it is the best method to observe the behavior of structure elements during the backward movement. The results of the slippage strength had been statistically analyzed, and the weaving process for the spacer fabrics had been achieved. It was concluded that the best properties for the woven spacer fabrics and the optimum case for the weaving process on the test weaving machine had been achieved when the following items are realized: Development of the narrow weaving machine is closed in assisting operations, let-off and take-up and enhancement for take-up processes. Extra let-off and take-up devices must be constructed at the weaving machine. Extra let-off device has to be used for controlling the floated warp yarns of ground fabrics. On the other side, extra take-up and the developed take-up devices have to be used for controlling the woven spacer fabrics. The experimental results give fundamental knowledges for the next steps in research and development of woven spacer fabrics made of high-performance yarns on the wide weaving machine. / Die Ziele der Arbeit bestanden in der Entwicklung der Geometrie der Spacer Fabrics und der notwendigen Falteneinrichtung an der Bandwebmaschine. Spacer Fabrics werden ausschließlich aus zwei Deckflächen, die durch eingewebte Stege verbunden sind, gefertigt. Zur Entwicklung der Spacer Fabrics muss eine Doppelnadel-Bandwebmaschine mit zwei Webfächern eingesetzt werden. Für die Faltenwebeinrichtung werden der entwickelte Extra-Kettablass und der Extra-Abzug benötigt. Der Antrieb und die Steuerung des Extra-Abzuges erfolgen durch einen Synchronantrieb und der Antrieb und die Steuerung des Extra-Ablasses durch Pneumatik.Eine frei programmierbare Steuerung der Faltenwebeinrichtung ermöglicht eine sichere und optimierte Synchronisation zwischen Webprozess und Faltenbildung. Im Ergebnis einer systematischen Strukturentwicklung von Spacer Fabrics und der Simulation ihrer günstigen Herstellung mittles eines speziell entwickelten Slippage Strength Tests werden die optimalen Strukturen ermittelt. Die experimentellen Untersuchungen bringen grundlegende Erkenntnisse für die folgenden Forschungsschritte zur Entwicklung von gewebten Spacer Fabrics mit Hochleistungsgarnen auf Doppelgreiferwebmaschinen.

The initial purpose of this study was to explore how tourism in Guatemala is affecting indigenous weavers, weaving practices, and the transmission of weaving knowledge and experience from the current generation of Guatemalans to the next. Through extended on-site study and interviews with weavers in three towns in Guatemala—San Antonio Aguas Calientes, Antigua, and Santiago Zamora—it was learned that weaving practices in Guatemala are much more culturally and socially complex than what is disclosed on the surface. This study revealed that the transmission of weaving practices between generations is influenced significantly by the growing effects of globalization. Not only is globalization shaping the emerging generation’s participation in weaving in Guatemala, but it was seen in this study that prevalent global ideas and practices are also molding education, clothing styles, entertainment, economics, technology, and social media within the current younger generation of Guatemalans. These growing influences on Guatemalan society contribute to a diminished interest in weaving and perceived need for weavers in this country, and are thus constricting the transmission of local Maya culture from past generations to the next. This research was a combination of the weavers’ stories and my own journey through the cultural complexities found in three Guatemalan towns in order to reveal a rich and purposed view of current cultural practices of weaving in Guatemala. / text

The metaphor of weaving and the methodology of phenomenology are used to expose eight ordinary people’s lived experience of receiving client-centred occupational therapy at home. This qualitative study reveals the themes of Thread, Weave and Texture interlocking to create the phenomenological structure of the lived experience. The two threads of being acknowledged and being respected are used with the five weaves of listening, taking time, demonstrating, having knowledge, and projecting a positive attitude, building four simple textures. The four textures -- having opportunity for choice, receiving support, getting information, and being cared about -- blended to form the participants’ lived experience. Their stories have inspired me to weave a tapestry of words, something that in its beauty celebrates the delivery of client-centred occupational therapy but also teaches these principles. / ix, 111 leaves ; 29 cm.

Visuomenėje vyraujantys grožio standartai virsta mėginimu tiražuoti moterų išorę. Mane supa grožis, mano šeimos moterys taip auklėtos, joms tai svarbu. Svarbu ir man, nes siekiu pripažinimo ir slepiuosi. Visada slėpdavausi, užsidengdama kitų žmonių istorijomis, išgyvendama panašius jausmus. Atėjo laikas save apnuoginti. Plaukai man - vienas pagrindinių moteriškumo simbolių ir akcentų. Netekusi jų, netenku dalies savęs. Veidas tampa neatpažįstamas. Tai istorija ne apie ligą, tačiau grožio siekimas kartais tampa liga. Į mano asmeninės istorijos veidus, galite įdėti savo veidą. Ir tai nebe mano, o neegzistuojančio asmens veidas. Reta moteris norėtų platinti savo „negrožį“. Ko realiame gyvenime neįgivendinčiau, savo kūrinyje fabrikinio audimo principu kurdama tiražą, aš skatinu nusiimti savo kaukes. Dvejų studijų metų tyrinėjimo laukas išsikristalizavo į teorinio darbo temą "Žmogaus plaukų panaudojimas šiuolaikiniame mene: nuo ritualo iki koncepcijos". Savo kūrinyje plaukų, kaip medžiagos nenaudojau ir paradoksalu, moters plaukai, virtę simboliu, kinta, kol galiausiai išnyksta. Šį kūrinį sudaro 25 A4 formato žakardinio audimo autoportretai. / Beauty standards, which dominate in the society, turns into effort to circulation of the women appearance. I’m surrounded by the beauty, my family woman was educating like that, and for them it is very important. It is also important for me, because I’m seeking for the appreciation and I’m hiding. I was always hiding using other people’s stories, surviving similar feelings. It is time to denude myself. Hairs for me – one of the basic symbol and accent of femininity. I lose them, I lose a part of myself. Face becomes unrecognizable. It is a story not about disease, but sometimes seeking of the beauty became a disease. Into my personal story of my faces, you can put your face. And it is no longer mine, but it is non-existing persons’ face. Rare women want to propagate her “non-beauty”. What I never unrealized in the real life, in this creation using factory weaving principles and creating circulations, I’m encouraging to take off your masks. The field of two years’ of my research grows into theoretical work – “Human hair using in contemporary art: from ritual to the conception”. I didn’t use hairs as a material in my creation and paradoxically, a women hair became to a symbol, changes, and finally disappears. This work consists of 25 units, A4 format Jacquard weaving self-portraits.

No description available.

Beginning in a small informal collective of Mapuche women weavers in Puerto Saavedra, Chile, I explore how ecological knowledge has survived through textile handcraft, passed down from mother to daughter . Through analysis of interviews and observations with the women as weavers , I reflect on the importance of centering Indigenous women's knowledge, systematically excluded from the environmental cannon. The weavers maintain and shape traditions that have survived colonization and its disruption of Indigenous access to land and ways of living. They produce and transmit environmental knowledge on which they depend for subsistence and cultural expression. Using ecofeminism as a framework, I argue that the Mapuche women weavers' knowledge is counternarrative and expert knowledge. Through these stories told by hand and through oral story-telling it becomes clear that it is not enough to simply celebrate their beautiful craft and sustainable ways of interacting with the more-than-human environment; it is essential, also, to engage in activist work towards environmental and social justice.

Thesis (docotral)--Universität Leipzig, 1909. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references.