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In the project Weave me through a dream I explore how textile craft, specifically tapestry weaving, can help create a more creative environment when caring for elders with dementia, and what the benefits with this can be. The research was done in collaboration with a nursing home in Stockholm, where I previously worked as a care assistant. This paper discusses and examines gathered research material combined with experiences from the care assistant job. In the process the project transformed from the therapeutic aspect of craft towards caring through craft in social engagement. The exhibited physical work is an interpretation of interactions at the nursing home. The tapestry can be used as discussion material concerning dementia care. My research concludes that weaving in dementia care was beneficial for the residents I met. My conclusion is also that a more creative environment within dementia care can strengthen staff and relatives affecting the residents in a positive way. The project Weave me through a dream hopes to open up the image of dementia and strengthen the relationship between residents, staff and relatives through creative care.

The dissertation develops analytical models that estimate the capacity of freeway weaving sections. The analytical models are developed using simulated data that were compiled using the INTEGRATION software. Consequently, the first step of the research effort is to validate the INTEGRATION lane-changing modeling procedures and the capacity estimates that are derived from the model against field observations. The INTEGRATION software is validated against field data gathered by the University of California at Berkeley by comparing the lateral and longitudinal distribution of simulated and field observed traffic volumes categorized by O-D pair on nine weaving sections in the Los Angeles area. The results demonstrate a high degree of consistency between simulated and field observed traffic volumes within the various weaving sections. Subsequently, the second validation effort compares the capacity estimates of the INTEGRATION software to field observations from four weaving sections operating at capacity on the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) in Toronto, Canada. Again, the results demonstrate that the capacity estimates of the INTEGRATION software are consistent with the field observations both in terms of absolute values and temporal variability across different days. The error was found to be in the range of 10% between simulated and field observed capacities. Prior to developing the analytical models, the dissertation presents a systematic analysis of the factors that impact the capacity of freeway weaving sections, which were found to include the length of the weaving section, the weaving ratio (a new parameter that is developed as part of this research effort), the percentage of heavy vehicles, and the speed limit differential between freeway and on- and off-ramps. The study demonstrates that the weaving ratio, which is currently defined as the ratio of the lowest weaving volume to the total weaving volume in the 2000 Highway Capacity Manual, has a significant impact on the capacity of weaving sections. The study also demonstrates that the weaving ratio is an asymmetric function and thus should reflect the source of the weaving volume. Consequently, a new definition for the weaving ratio is introduced that explicitly identifies the source of the weaving volume. In addition, the study demonstrates that the length of the weaving section has a larger impact on the capacity of weaving sections for short lengths and high traffic demands. Furthermore, the study demonstrates that there does not exist enough evidence to conclude that the speed limit differential between mainline freeway and on- and off-ramps has a significant impact on weaving section capacities. Finally, the study demonstrates that the HCM procedures model the heavy duty vehicle impacts reasonably well. This dissertation presents the development of new capacity models for freeway weaving sections. In these models, a new definition of the weaving ratio that explicitly accounts for the source of weaving volume is introduced. The proposed analytical models estimate the capacity of weaving sections to within 12% of the simulated data, while the HCM procedures exhibit errors in the range of 114%. Among the newly developed models, the Artificial Neural Network (ANN) models performs slightly better that the statistical models in terms of model prediction errors. However, the sensitivity analysis results demonstrate unrealistic behavior of the ANN models under certain conditions. Consequently, the use of a statistical model is recommended because it provides a high level of accuracy while providing accurate model responses to changes in model input parameters (good response to the gradient of the input parameters). / Ph. D.

This dissertation is a social and material cultural history of the handicraft carpet industry in the late Russian Empire and the Soviet Union. It examines how the carpet handicraft associated with the Islamic East entered the vocabulary of the Soviet state, despite its emphasis on heavy industrial development. Woven mostly by women and girls in village and pastoral nomadic contexts, the so-called Oriental carpets of the Russian Empire became sought-after items within the global carpet trade in the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The research explores how the Soviet state replaced and replicated business networks that had sprung up during the carpet boom starting in the 1870s, consolidating them into state structures of trade, industry, and national heritage. Despite the rhetoric of socialist modernization of the Soviet Union, carpets continued to be knotted and woven by hand through the end of the twentieth century. Nonetheless, the women’s bodies, skills, and the products of their labor were categorized and understood in different ways. The dissertation uses handicraft carpets to reframe our understanding of how the Soviet Union incorporated peripheral regions such as the Caucasus into the cultural, social, and economic landscape of the Soviet Union. Moving beyond frameworks of the center and periphery that has characterized previous scholarship of the region, the dissertation foregrounds the Caucasus as a nexus of networks that connected the Soviet Union to Europe, Americas, and the Near East. It provides an alternative reading of Soviet national cultures as rooted not so much in top-down or bottom-up negotiations within the cultural or political spheres but in the cross-fertilizations through local, regional, and international networks. The work looks past national narratives to emphasize the role that merchants, weavers, and artists played in shaping the trajectory of handicraft carpet weaving in the Soviet Caucasus. Drawing on a close study of objects, visual material, oral history, and institutional records, the dissertation shows how the construction of Soviet national cultural heritage in the Caucasus was born out attempts reshape the relationship between the practitioner and the craft.

It’s about how researching pipes, a part of infrastructure and everyday life, can be a tool to see inequality in our society. To see how class issues and the consequences of capitalism are present in every corner of our everyday lives.   It has to do with seeing our cities as organisms, as bodies, connected by systems. Systems, transferring matter around, making the organism live and function. But the systems can be infected, and that will affect us.    It’s about connecting systems, to expose what’s hidden; the pipes buried in the grown, together with corporations’ greed.   It’s about depicting systems, with systems. Using weaving to produce material. To make components. Give the work ability to be in a state of possible transformation.   To make a visual comment, to start a conversation through craft.   It’s about creating systems, to make systems, that speaks of systems.

This degree work is situated in the field of textile design and positions itself specifically in tactility and jacquard weaving. The motive of this work is to connect textile design with the user in a site-specific context for an including designprocess. The aim of this study is to investigate tactility in a site-specific context with playful weaves inspired by nature. The design process had its starting point in tactile and visual patterns in nature and involved hand-drawn sketches translated into woven patterns to spark curiosity and invite to touch. Along the process the produced woven sketches were tested on an audience to understand touch in relation to user but also put into a site-specific context to understand what could be developed in the space. The result of the study is four different weaves with variety in colour and tactility positioned in different parts of the chosen context - a children’s library corner. The collection consists of one floor piece, one wall piece and two interactive, movable pieces. Designing four textiles for different touch in relation to user and a site-specific context contributes to the textile field by containing a longlasting, including designprocess.

As soon as a material is viewed as waste, the value of this resource diminishes, leading to a lack of concern for its preservation. By presenting alternative perspectives on such materials, their beauty and potential can be shown. In WHAT A WASTE, new light is shone on discarded fishing ropes from the Swedish seas. The project focuses on the unique qualities of these discarded materials, showcasing their worth despite being worn out. A material-driven approach is employed, wherein the selected materials’ behaviour guides the creation of shape and form. In a dialogue between maker and material, the different characters of the collection take form through a playful and intuitive process. Weaving is the main technique combined with a construction principle in which the unique properties of the discarded ropes lead to shape, colour and texture discoveries. Contemplating utilising an unconventional material in the loom to highlight innovative visual and tactile characteristics. This project proposes new design methods for reusing discarded materials and how people can value waste again through textile design. Exploring ways of working with the ropes, such as detangling, in combination with other yarns can create new aesthetics for three-dimensional woven forms. Aiming to create woven sculptures of varying scales and shapes in a spatial context through a material-led process.

Le but du travail est de montrer la faisabilité du tissage de filament de très faible diamètre (de l'ordre de 10 à 25 -tm) et de matières différentes (cuivre, or, polyester...). Les essais du comportement mécanique (traction, fatigue) du micro filament de cuivre ont montré la possibilité du tissage de ce type du filament à cette échelle. A partir de ces résultats, il est possible d'entrevoir des solutions techniques de tissage pour réaliser des tissus à partir de ces filaments. Ce travail a permis donc de concevoir les différentes parties de la machine de micro tissage : système d'alimentation des fils de chame, système de formation de la foule, système d'insertion du fil de trame, système de mouvement du peigne, système d'appel et de stockage du tissu. Le système de formation de la foule de type Jacquard représente le cœur de la machine à tisser. Il lève un verrou technologique persistant depuis de très nombreuses années. Les résultats prometteurs des micros actionneurs fluidiques ont permis de montrer la faisabilité du micro tissage. Ils ont permis également de valider le procédé de la fabrication d'un bloc des plusieurs actionneurs capable de séparer les filaments de chaîne pour former la foule. Le logiciel de contrôle et de dessin conçu permet à la fois de réaliser des armures et de les compiler en format convenable pour pouvoir les transmettre à la carte de contrôle. Cette dernière permet de contrôler les différentes parties de la machine à tisser. / The aim of this work is to demonstrate the feasibility ofweaving filaments of very small diameter (about 10 to 25 -tm) made ofvarious materials (copper, gold, polyester, etc...). The possibility of weaving copper micro filaments at this scale has been proved via the fatigue and traction mechanical tests. According to these results, it was possible to foresee weaving technical solutions to produce fabrics from these micro filaments. This work has permitted the design of the different parts of the micro weaving machine: warp let-off system, warp shedding system, filling insertion system, beat-up system and take-up system. Warp shedding system of Jacquard type represents the heart of the weaving machine. It solved the complicated technical problem ofweaving materials that persists since many years. The positive results of micro fluidic actuators have demonstrated the feasibility of micro weaving. They have also validated the process of manufacturing a block of severa! actuators capable of separating the warp filament's to form the shed. The created software of control and design allows to make weaves and to compile them into a convenient format to be transmitted to the control card. This card controls the different parts of the weaving machine.