Resumo: A utilização do alumínio em escala industrial vem crescendo cada vez mais nos últimos anos e um dos principais motivos é o espaço que esse material vem conquistando em substituição ao aço. O interesse da indústria em ter um maior controle das distorções provocadas pela soldagem de alumínio se deve ao fato das tolerâncias dimensionais e geométricas estarem cada vez mais precisas nas especificações de projeto, motivando a engenharia de fabricação a desenvolver processos estáveis e que garantam a rotina de produção. O elevado coeficiente de expansão linear desse metal, se comparado ao aço, é uma das suas principais características que geram dificuldades nesse cenário. Visando isso, o presente trabalho tem como principal objetivo analisar o quanto situações rotineiras utilizadas na soldagem robotizada de alumínio podem influenciar nas distorções angulares deste material, sem comprometer a integridade mecânica da junta soldada e com confiabilidade estatística. Utilizando a liga AA 5052 H34, e a soldagem robotizada no processo GMAW pulsado, foram aplicados três tipos de tecimento ao longo do comprimento da solda, em juntas de topo montadas sem chanfro e com chanfro de 60º, dispostas tanto transversais quanto longitudinais ao sentido de conformação da chapa. A medição das distorções foi realizada por um braço tridimensional, antes e após a soldagem, em três regiões distintas nos corpos de prova. O perfil do cordão de solda foi o fator determinante para as diferentes formas das distorções encontradas, assim como revelado pelas análises macrográficas. A junta com chanfro de 60º apresentou maiores amplitudes das distorções que a junta sem chanfro. O tecimento não foi uma variável de influência estatística significativa nessas amplitudes. Ensaios de tração foram realizados para se avaliar o comportamento mecânico das juntas soldadas / Abstract: The use of aluminum by industry has been recently growing more and more each time and one of the main reasons is the position that this material is gaining as a replacement for steel. The industry's interest in having a greater control of the distorcions caused by aluminum welding is due to the geometric and dimensional tolerances been more and more precise in the project specifications, motivating the manufacturing engineering to develop stable processes and to ensure routine production. The high coefficient of linear expansion of this metal, which is one of its main features, can create a difficult scenario when compared to the steel. Aiming at it, the main goal of this present work is to analyze how much routine situations used int the robotic aluminum welding can influence in the angular distortions of this material, without affecting the mechanical integrity of the welded joint and with statistical reliability. Using the alloy AA 5052 H34, and the robotic welding in pulsed GMAW process, it was applied three types of weaving throughout the length of the weld, in butt joints assembled without groove and with 60º single-V-groove, arranged transversely as well as longitudinally to the rolling direction of the plate. The measurement of the distortions was made by a three-dimensional equipment, before and after the welding, in three distinct regions in the speciments. The profile of the weld bead was the main factor for the different types of distortions found, as revealed by macrographical analysis. The 60º single-V-groove had higher amplitudes of distortions as the joint without groove. The weaving wasn't a variable of statistically significant influence in this amplitudes. Tensile tests were made to evaluate the mechanical properties of the welded joints / Orientador: Yukio Kobayashi / Coorientador: Gilberto de Magalhães Bento Gonçalves / Banca: Américo Scotti / Banca: Luiz Eduardo de Angelo Sanchez / Mestre

This thesis investigates whole-garment weaving as an experimental design and construction method. The majority of the current development and research within the field focuses on production efficiency and the development of weaving techniques. Here, the intention is to connect form, material and making. The aim is to find ways to deconstruct the process of garment making in order to create new knowledge through craft. Within whole-garment weaving, many design processes are dealt with simultaneously, through direct experimentation on the loom. In order to maintain the integrity of the weaving, interferences such as cutting and sewing is limited. The basics of the practical method is that the cloth is woven as a double weave on the loom. For the practical work, the first objective was to find basic parameters for the project, freely experimenting with weave constructions and bindings. As the process developed, more aspects of garment construction were included in the design process. The combination of bindings, floats and elastic is used to create expressive textile as well as dress, so that the textile surfaces influences the silhouette or the drape. The result shows the expressive potential of whole-garment weaving through a series of nine examples, each showcasing different aspects of the method. The focus is on showcasing experimental approaches to simultaneous fashion/textile design interaction.

Cette thèse s’intéresse au tissage et au préformage de renforts fibreux à base de fibres de lin. Avant d’être utilisés, ces fibres sont disposées en faisceaux de faible longueur (~ 30 mm en moyenne) et ont besoin d’être assemblées pour constituer un renfort linéaire continu. L’utilisation de rubans ou de rovings sans torsion est recommandée pour des applications composites. Dans un premier temps, cette étude se concentre sur l’élaboration et l’utilisation de rovings traités par un agent d’encollage et sans torsion ainsi que sur l’influence des paramètres du procédé de tissage sur les propriétés mécaniques et les caractéristiques textiles des renforts tissés. Pour éviter l’endommagement de ces rovings durant le tissage, des solutions sont proposées. Dans un second temps cette thèse s’intéresse à la mise en forme de ces renforts sur une géométrie complexe. Ce travail se concentre alors sur l’étape de préformage du procédé RTM. Une approche expérimentale est abordée pour identifier et quantifier les défauts apparaissant durant l’emboutissage sur une géométrie complexe comme le tétraèdre. Cette analyse se concentre en particulier sur le défaut de bouclage causé par un fléchissement des mèches. Des solutions comme l’optimisation de l’architecture des renforts sont observées pour obtenir cette géométrie complexe sans défaut avec des renforts à base de fibres de lin. La forme, le positionnement ainsi que la pression appliquée sur les serre-flans maintenant le renfort au cours du passage du poinçon influent également sur la génération des défauts. L’optimisation du procédé d’emboutissage pour empêcher l’apparition de boucles sur les préformes conclut ce travail. / This work focuses on the weaving and forming of flax based reinforcements. Before being woven, naturalfibres on the form of finite length bundles (~ 30 mm in average for flax) need to be assembled together in a1D continuous product. The use of roving or slivers without twist is rather recommended for compositeapplications. In a first part, this study focuses on the manufacturing and the use of untwisted rovings treatedwith a bonding agent as well as on the weaving process parameters that may influence the mechanicalproperties and the textile characteristics of the woven fabric. Solutions to prevent roving defects duringweaving are proposed. In a second part, this study investigates the ability to develop composite parts with complex geometrieswithout defect. It focuses on the first step of RTM process which consists in forming dry fibrousreinforcements. An experimental approach is used to identify and quantify the defects. The buckling defectcaused by the bending of tows during the preforming step is particularly investigated. Solutions to realize acomplex shape such as a tetrahedron without any defect from flax based woven reinforcements areproposed. With optimized reinforcement architecture, buckling can be prevented. Another solutionconsisting in optimising the process parameters such as the blank holder geometry or the blank holderpressure to prevent the appearance of buckles from commercial fabrics was also investigated with success.

This work places itself in the field of textile design, weaving and interactive objects. It explores how the combination of solid and soft materials in a woven structure affect its flexibility and pliability. By integrating solid materials as a weaving material the work aims to propose an alternative context for woven structures, not necessarily becoming fabrics but rather objects that can be interacted with. The design process consisted of series of workshops where woven samples were made on a hand loom, weaving frame and by hand. The result are three woven structures each of which show of different flexibilities attained through the combination of solid and soft materials. The pieces are meant to be interacted with and can be shaped in various ways by folding, stacking or connecting parts of the structure. Combining solid and soft materials with the weaving technique shows the potential of interactive structures and objects which propose multiple functions, and can be developed further into products for interior design or play.

High-performance fibres such as carbon, glass and kevlar are very promising for aerospace applications because of their high strength, stiffness, impact damage and excellent fatigue life. The high cost of the prepreg materials such as pre-impregnated fibre tape/tow and fabrics, and limitations of existing manufacturing processes are a big challenge for the aerospace industry to meet increasing performance demands. Their benefits can only be achieved by using low cost materials and manufacturing methods. In the past three or four decades, there have been substantial technological developments, which are governed by the new materials and their associated manufacturing techniques. The production of carbon fibre is slow and capital intensive, therefore, carbon manufactures produce higher tow counts (number of filaments) to increase production through-put in order to reduce its cost. In other words, 12k carbon tow is much cheaper than 6k or 3k carbon tow. In many applications finer tows are desirable. In this thesis, a fully automated laser feedback tow splitting line has been developed to split higher tow counts (12k spool) into smaller tow counts (split into 6k spools) in order to produce low cost material. The quality of the split tows has been evaluated by recording the data online during the splitting process. The recorded data was later analysed by statistical tools. A four axis modular gantry robotic system has been developed at the University of Manchester in order to deposit dry fibres in a completely flexible manner. To facilitate robotic preforming, an end-effector and mould have been designed and developed in this research. The tow placement program was written in the CoDeSys software which is then uploaded into the motion controller to perform specific motions. The cross-ply laminates have been manufactured by the proposed robotic system using split 6k (produced by the tow splitting process) and original 12k carbon tows. Mechanical test of both composites (12k and split 6k) are presented. A tufting process has been developed and conducted by the robotic system in order to manufacture 3D preforms. The tufted composite was compared with 3D woven and stitched 2D broadcloth in terms of the tensile and interlaminar shear strength properties. X-ray tomography has been conducted to investigate preform geometrical variations of manufactured composites. In addition, preforming cost models have been developed for robotic fibre placement and 3D weaving.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:20Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2011-01-24Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:17:58Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 coraini_r_me_bauru.pdf: 4046838 bytes, checksum: 246be85a1178880a9bdc9bbb5df7fbde (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A utilização do alumínio em escala industrial vem crescendo cada vez mais nos últimos anos e um dos principais motivos é o espaço que esse material vem conquistando em substituição ao aço. O interesse da indústria em ter um maior controle das distorções provocadas pela soldagem de alumínio se deve ao fato das tolerâncias dimensionais e geométricas estarem cada vez mais precisas nas especificações de projeto, motivando a engenharia de fabricação a desenvolver processos estáveis e que garantam a rotina de produção. O elevado coeficiente de expansão linear desse metal, se comparado ao aço, é uma das suas principais características que geram dificuldades nesse cenário. Visando isso, o presente trabalho tem como principal objetivo analisar o quanto situações rotineiras utilizadas na soldagem robotizada de alumínio podem influenciar nas distorções angulares deste material, sem comprometer a integridade mecânica da junta soldada e com confiabilidade estatística. Utilizando a liga AA 5052 H34, e a soldagem robotizada no processo GMAW pulsado, foram aplicados três tipos de tecimento ao longo do comprimento da solda, em juntas de topo montadas sem chanfro e com chanfro de 60º, dispostas tanto transversais quanto longitudinais ao sentido de conformação da chapa. A medição das distorções foi realizada por um braço tridimensional, antes e após a soldagem, em três regiões distintas nos corpos de prova. O perfil do cordão de solda foi o fator determinante para as diferentes formas das distorções encontradas, assim como revelado pelas análises macrográficas. A junta com chanfro de 60º apresentou maiores amplitudes das distorções que a junta sem chanfro. O tecimento não foi uma variável de influência estatística significativa nessas amplitudes. Ensaios de tração foram realizados para se avaliar o comportamento mecânico das juntas soldadas / The use of aluminum by industry has been recently growing more and more each time and one of the main reasons is the position that this material is gaining as a replacement for steel. The industry's interest in having a greater control of the distorcions caused by aluminum welding is due to the geometric and dimensional tolerances been more and more precise in the project specifications, motivating the manufacturing engineering to develop stable processes and to ensure routine production. The high coefficient of linear expansion of this metal, which is one of its main features, can create a difficult scenario when compared to the steel. Aiming at it, the main goal of this present work is to analyze how much routine situations used int the robotic aluminum welding can influence in the angular distortions of this material, without affecting the mechanical integrity of the welded joint and with statistical reliability. Using the alloy AA 5052 H34, and the robotic welding in pulsed GMAW process, it was applied three types of weaving throughout the length of the weld, in butt joints assembled without groove and with 60º single-V-groove, arranged transversely as well as longitudinally to the rolling direction of the plate. The measurement of the distortions was made by a three-dimensional equipment, before and after the welding, in three distinct regions in the speciments. The profile of the weld bead was the main factor for the different types of distortions found, as revealed by macrographical analysis. The 60º single-V-groove had higher amplitudes of distortions as the joint without groove. The weaving wasn't a variable of statistically significant influence in this amplitudes. Tensile tests were made to evaluate the mechanical properties of the welded joints

A presente dissertação, intitulada Estruturas Contingentes e Formas Resguardadas: o tecer como prática artística inserida no cotidiano, propõe a análise do processo de tecitura manual dos objetos que compõem a pesquisa. Ao sistematizar e analisar o processo dos referidos objetos, abordarei as interferências e intercorrências em espaços privados e públicos – experienciados enquanto lugares de atividades cotidianas e do exercício de tecer. Também estarão sob foco as reverberações dessas experiências no atelier e nos modos de exposição. / This dissertation, titled Contingent Structures and Withdrawn Shapes: weaving as an everyday art practice, proposes the analysis of the process of hand weaving the objects that make up the research. By systematizing and analyzing the process of said objects, I will approach interferences and events in private and public spaces - experienced as venues for everyday activities and for the act of weaving. Echoes of these experiences in the studio and in exhibition methods will also be addressed.

A detailed description of the technological features of the textiles found in funerary contexts and architectural hills of the latest occupational phases of the Lima Culture is presented. These materials were found as part of the Huaca Pucllana research project established by the Municipality of Miraflores and the Ministry of Culture. Preliminary results indicate that in funerary contexts one or two simple plain weave cotton textiles were used to bundle the bodies. In some cases complete fabrics were used while in other the bundles were formed by many pieces put together, with some fragments with evidence of darning and mending. On the other hand, the textiles found in votive oerings in the architecture are of cotton and wool made by the ringed technique both simple and interconnected knotting. Geometric designs as well as intertwined ash were made using cactus spine needles which have been used to make nets. ere is also evidence of textiles made using a backstrap loom which are commonly the 1x1 plain weave, woven face fabric warp and warp faced list. is evidence suggests that there were diferent types of weavers in the Lima society dedicated to the production of domestic and ceremonial textiles. / Ofrecemos información sobre las particularidades tecnológicas de tejidos atribuidas a las últimas ocupaciones de la cultura Lima, encontrados en contextos funerarios y rellenos arquitectónicos durante las excavaciones efectuadas entre 1996 y 2000, como parte del «Proyecto de Investigación, Conservación y Puesta en Valor de Huaca Pucllana», convenio Instituto Nacional de Cultura-Municipalidad de Miraflores. La muestra textil estudiada indica que en los entierros funerarios Lima, se usaron como envoltorios de los cuerpos, tejidos llanos de algodón compuestos por una o dos telas completas y telas formadas por la unión de fragmentos, algunas de estas últimas con remiendos y zurcidos, a diferencia de los tejidos depositados como ofrendas que tienen tratamiento especial y son un solo elemento, elaborados en lana y algodónmediante la técnica del anillado interconectado simple y anudado, con diseños de figuras geométricas y de peces entrelazados, en cuya manufactura emplearon agujas de espina de cactus, utilizadas también para la elaboración de redes. Los tejidos confeccionados en telar de cintura se distinguen por técnicas comunes de: tejido llano 1x1, tejido cara de urdimbre y tejido listado cara de urdimbre, lo cual sirve de base para sostener que en la sociedad Lima había diferentes clases de artesanos dedicados a la producción de tejidos.

No description available.

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of mens 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better. These retail categories were represented by brands Fruit of the Loom, H&M, and Brooks Brothers, respectively. A convenience sample was comprised of 78 t-shirts. 13 white and 13 navy t-shirts from each brand were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. The navy t-shirts in the ‘better’ retail category met five out of the six requirements specified by the ASTM standard. However, the navy t-shirts in the ‘fast fashion’ category met four out of five met by the ‘better’ category. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations.