Une méthodologie pour mesurer la perméabilité plane d’un milieu fibreux par un flux d’air transitoire est développée. Le procédé, basé sur la mesure de pression d’un gaz aux bornes du système, au cours d’un écoulement transitoire, est pratique, propre et rapide, et permet d'éviter l'utilisation d'un débitmètre de gaz et offre la possibilité d'étudier le transport d’un gaz à l'intérieur du milieu fibreux.Le transport du gaz dans un milieu poreux fibreux est décrit par plusieurs modèles suivant les différents régimes d'écoulement. La perméabilité, dépendant uniquement de l’architecture fibreuse, est déterminée par une méthode inverse, en ajustant les résultats de la simulation aux données expérimentales obtenues par une hausse ou une chute de la pression. Les résultats pour la perméabilité visqueuse Kv des tissus sergés des verre/carbone (Kv allant de 10-11 à 10-10 m2) mesurée à l'aide d’un gaz corrèlent bien à la perméabilité mesurée avec des techniques d'injection ou compression utilisant un liquide. L'écart avec la loi de Darcy causé par le glissement du gaz sur les tissus à faible perméabilité (tissus unidirectionnels de carbone: Kv de 10-14 à 10-12 m2) est analysé et un paramètre lié au tissu montre une dépendance avec la perméabilité, avec une tendance similaire au paramètre de Klinkenberg utilisé pour les sols et les roches.Les erreurs expérimentales dues à des dimensions, à l’effet thermique, à la variation de pression, à la manipulation des échantillons, et à du gaz emprisonné sur les bords sont analysés. Il en ressort que la sensibilité des capteurs de pression et des volumes de gaz piégés sur les bords sont les facteurs les plus importants.La mise en place d’une méthode permettant une mesure directe de la perméabilité à l’aide d’un gaz du tenseur 2D de perméabilité est proposée pour les problèmes de gaz piégés sur les bords. Les expériences simulées montrent que les mesures basées sur la pression mesurée à trois positions pourraient fournir des résultats fiables et précis pour des tissus avec des rapports d’anisotropie perméabilité (K1/K2) allant de 0,1 à 10, et avec des orientations principales quelconques. / A methodology to measure in-plane permeability of fibrous media using a transient one dimensional air flow is developed. The method, based on the measurement of gas pressure at the boundaries throughout the transient flow, is convenient, clean and fast, avoids usage of a gas flow meter and offers a way to study the gas transport within fibrous media. The gas transport through fibrous porous media is described by several models to comply with different flow regimes. The permeability, only depending on the fibrous structure, is determined by inverse method, fitting the simulation results to the experimental data obtained using rising or dropping pressure methods. The results of viscous permeability Kv of Glass/Carbon Twill Woven fabrics (viscous permeability Kv ranging from 10-11 to 10-10 m2) measured using gas match well the permeability measured with liquid compression and injection techniques from previous works. The deviation from Darcy's law caused by gas sliding effect on low permeability Carbon Uni-Directional fabrics (Kv from 10-14 to 10-12 m2) is analyzed and a related parameter of fabric material shows a dependence in permeability, with a similar trend as the Klinkenberg sliding parameter in soils and rocks.The experimental errors due to dimensions, thermal effect, pressure variation, sample handling, and trapped gas at boundaries are analyzed. It comes out that the sensitivities of pressure sensors and trapped gas volumes at the boundaries have the most important effects. A design for 2D measurement using gas to obtain 2D permeability tensor in one single test is proposed to avoid the issues of trapped gas at boundaries. Simulated experiments show that the measurements based on pressure measured at three proposed locations could provide robust and accurate results for fabrics of anisotropic permeability ratios (K1/K2) ranging from 0.1 to 10, with various principal permeability direction orientations.

Ce travail aborde trois problèmes fondamentaux liés au comportement mécanique de matériaux tissés. Dans une première partie, le modèle de Wang et Pipkin pour des tissés, décrits comme des réseaux de fibres inextensibles comportant une résistance au cisaillement et à la flexion, est généralisé en un modèle prenant en compte la résistance à la torsion des fibres. Une application au comportement d’une coque cylindrique constituée de fibres hélicoïdales est traitée. Dans une deuxième partie, nous analysons l’impact de la géométrie de l’armure du tissé sur les propriétés de symétrie de l’énergie de déformation. Pour des réseaux constitués de deux familles de fibres, quatre configurations distinctes d’armure existent, selon l’angle entre les fibres et les propriétés mécaniques des fibres. Les propriétés de symétrie de l’armure déterminent le groupe de symétrie matérielle du réseau, sous l’action duquel la densité d’énergie est invariante. Dans ce contexte, des représentations des énergies de déformation d’un tissé invariantes par le groupe de symétrie matérielle du réseau sont établies. La relation entre les invariants du groupe et la courbure des fibres est analysée. Dans une troisième partie, des modèles de textiles considérés comme des surfaces dotées d’une microstructure sont élaborés, à partir d’une modification des modèles classiques de coques de Cosserat, dans lesquels la microstructure décrit les ondulations des fils à l’échelle microscopique. A partir d’une représentation du fil comme un elastica d’Euler, une expression explicite de l’énergie élastique microscopique est obtenue, qui permet d’établir un modèle simple du comportement mécanique macroscopique de tissés / In this work, we discuss three basic problems related to the mechanical behavior of textile materials. First, we extend the model of Wang and Pipkin for textiles, described as networks of inextensible fibers with resistance to shear and bending, to a model in which resistance to twist of the individual fibers is taken into account, by including torsion contributions in the elastic stored energy. As an example, we study the behaviour of a cylindrical shell made of helical fibers. Second, we study how the geometry of the weave pattern affects the symmetry properties of the deformation energy of a woven fabric. For networks made by two families of fibers, four basic types of weave patterns are possible, depending on the angle between the fibers and on their material properties. The symmetry properties of the pattern determine the material symmetry group of the network, under which the stored energy is invariant. In this context, we derive representations for the deformation energy of a woven fabric that are invariant under the symmetry group of the network, and discuss the relation of the resulting group invariants with the curvature of the fibers. Third, we develop a model for textiles viewed as surfaces with microstructure, using a modification of the classical Cosserat model for shells, in which the microstructure accounts for the undulations of the threads at the microscopic scale. Describing the threads as Euler's elastica, we derive an explicit expression for the microscopic elastic energy that allows to set up a simple model for the macroscopic mechanical behavior of textiles

El presente trabajo de investigación analiza los aspectos más importantes de las madres actuales respecto al cuidado de sus hijos en edades pequeñas. Principalmente, por el cuidado y protección que los niños necesitan en su ropa. Diferentes estudios demuestran que padres con hijos entre las edades de 0 a 5 años invierten mucho dinero en la vestimenta, es ahí donde se encontró una necesidad insatisfecha y nuestra propuesta es ofrecerles un producto innovador y de más alta calidad sin dejar de lado la protección a los niños antes las caídas y suciedades que están expuestos. Al mismo tiempo que contribuimos con la economía familiar y el cuidado del medio ambiente. Se han realizado estudios de mercado y entrevistas a los clientes con la finalidad de conocer los factores determinantes que influyen en la decisión de compra de ropa para niños. Así mismo, se analizó el mercado y determinó con claridad el nicho al cual queremos llegar. Finalmente se realizó un estudio del plan de marketing que permitirá constituir la empresa, además de diseñar el plan de operaciones, estrategias y financiamiento del proyecto. / This research work analyzes the most important aspects of current mothers regarding the care of their children at young ages. Mainly, for the care and protection that children need in their clothes. Different studies show that parents with children between the ages of 0 to 5 years invest a lot of money in clothing, this is where an unmet need was found and our proposal is to offer them an innovative and higher quality product without neglecting the protection children before the falls and dirt that are exposed. At the same time we contribute to the family economy and the care of the environment. Market studies and interviews with clients have been conducted in order to know the determining factors that influence the decision to purchase children's clothing. Likewise, the market was analyzed and clearly determined the niche we want to reach. Finally, a marketing plan study was carried out that will allow the company to be established, as well as designing the project's operations, strategies and financing plan. / Trabajo de investigación

Ossos trabeculares possuem uma microestrutura porosa e podem ser modelados como um sólido elástico linear, heterogêneo e anisotrópico. A microtomografia tridimensional por raios-x (uCT) tem sido mundialmente utilizada para a caracterização de osso trabecular em pesquisas relacionadas à qualidade óssea e à doenças do metabolismo ósseo como a osteoporose. Na literatura há poucas investigações comparando as análises morfométricas 2D e 3D de osso trabecular. Nesta investigação amostras de osso trabeculares cilíndricas extraídas da cabeça femoral bovina foram utilizadas para a comparação dessas análises por \'mü\'CT. O software CT-Analyser foi utilizado para medidas em três direções (crânio-caudal, lateral-medial e anterior-posterior) de diversos parâmetros da microestrutura trabecular tais como espessura trabecular, separação trabecular, número trabecular e os autovalores do tensor de anisotropia (M). A comparação entre os valores dos parâmetros medidos por análises morfométricas 2D e 3D foi realizada pelo teste-t pareado com nível de significância p < 0,05 e por correlação linear de Pearson. Os autovalores da matriz M mostram que a microestrutura trabecular bovina tem uma tendência para a simetria transversalmente isotrópica. Os resultados obtidos mostram que a microtomografia tridimensional por raios-X é uma técnica de grande potencial para caracterização da qualidade óssea gerando bons parâmetros para o diagnóstico de doenças do metabolismo ósseo. / Trebecular bones have a porous microstructure and can be modeled as a linear elastic solid, heterogenous and anisotropic. The x-ray tridimensional microtomography (\'mü\'CT) has been worldwide used for the assessment of trabecular bone in investigations related to bone quality and aimed to the diagnostic of bone metabolic diseases such as osteoporosis. In the literature few investigations have compared the 2D and 3D morphometric analysis of trabecular bone. In this investigation cylindrical trabecular bone samples were harvested from bovine head femur to carry out that comparison by \'mü\'CT. The CT-Analyser software was used to measure in three directions (superior-inferior, lateral-medial and anterior-posterior) several microstructural trabecular parameters such as trabecular thickness, trabecular separation, trabecular number and the eigenvalues of the fabric tensor (M). The comparison between the parameters values measured by 2D and 3D morphometric analysis was performed by the paired-sample t test with a level of significance p < 0,05 and the Pearson\'s linear correlation. The eigenvalues show that the bovine trabecular microstructure has a tendence to transverse isotropy symmetry. The results show that x-ray tridimensional microtomography (\'mü\'CT) is a technique of great potential for characterization of generating good bone quality parameters for the diagnosis of diseases of bone metabolism.

A Cryptomeria japonica D. Don. "elegans" é uma conífera pertencente à família Taxodiaceae, que apresenta crescimento rápido e boas respostas à fertilização. Dez variações nas concentrações de nitrato e amônio presentes no meio de cultura MS foram realizadas no cultivo 'in vitro' de brotações obtidas a partir de explantes primários de ápices caulinares durante 90 dias. A cada 30 dias foram avaliados, a taxa de crescimento relativo e o incremento em massa vegetal seca. Ao final de 90 dias, foram realizadas análises dos teores de proteínas solúveis totais, aminoácidos solúveis totais, carboidratos não-estruturais totais e eletroforese de proteínas totais em gel de poliacrilamida. Os tratamentos que exibiram resultados mais satisfatórios foram utilizados em um experimento com diferentes relações auxina/citocinina, onde foram avaliadas a produção de brotações e a altura média das mesmas aos 30, 60 e 90 dias de cultivo. As concentrações de nitrato e amônio entre 25 e 31mmol.L -1 e até 5mmol.L -1, respectivamente, foram as mais efetivas para o crescimento e desenvolvimento do material vegetal cultivado 'in vitro'. Durante o experimento com diferentes concentrações de ANA e BAP, foi possível observar que a produção de brotações, etapa essecial para um processo de micropropagação eficiente, foi superior quando as combinações entre nitrato e amônio foram 22,5 + 2,5mmol.L -1 e 25,0 + 5,0mmol.L -1. / Cryptomeria japonica D. Don. "elegans" is a fast-growing tree belonging to the Taxodiaceae and it is considered a responsive species 'in vitro'. The aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of ten different concentrations of nitrate and ammonium in morphogenesis 'in vitro' of Cryptomeria japonica D. Don. "elegans" explants. Analysis of relative growth rate, total soluble proteins, total soluble aminoacids, total non structural carbohydrates and electrophoresis of total proteins was performed in order to observe the role of different nitrogen sources on the growth and development of the explants cultivated 'in vitro'. The concentratios of nitrate and ammonium that showed the best results were selected and used in an experiment with different concentrations of NAA and BAP to observe the shoot production. Each experiment was analised at the 30 th , 60 th and 90 th days of culture. The biochemical analysis was performed only at 90 th day of cultive. Concentrations from 26 to 31mmol.L -1 of NO3 - and lower than 5mmol.L -1 of NH4 + were the most effective for growth and development of the explants. However, the experiment with different concentrations of NNA and BAP showed that the best shoot production was achieved on 22,5mmol.L -1 of NO3- + 2,5mmol.L -1 of NH4 + and on 25,0mmol.L -1 of NO3 - + 5,0mmol.L -1 of NH4 + and with 2,0mg.L -1 of BAP + 1,0mg.L -1 of NNA.

Almedahls have for some time started to receive more customer complaints about uneven roller blind fabrics or so-called waves over fabric. The waves are a major problem for Almedahls customers since they make it hard to cut the fabric into roller blinds. The company believes that the waves appear due to different process parameters within their finishing line but the company do not yet know how or where. The thesis project strives to find an explanation to what waves over fabric are, why they appear and how they can be reduced. The documentation that Almedahls have made of the problem so far, including photographs and customer complaints reports, was examined. Orders produced from four selected grey-weaves during the last three years was examined and compared to received customer complaints and standard operations lists. No clear relationship was found and weaves with longer process lines did not seem to cause more waves to appear. However, addition of an extra colouring to the standard operations appeared to be more frequently occurring when a standard operations list had been changed.Waves over fabric were at an early stage related to the mechanical properties of the weaves as the weaves are exposed to stresses and strains during the entire production line. In Almedahls’ finishing line the web and the beam tensions and the levelling mechanisms in the stenter frames appeared to be the parameters which especially apply stresses and strains. Tensile tests were performed to examine the mechanical properties of a few of Almedahls grey-weaves and half processed weave. The test results showed that a strain between 11-27 % can be applied before the test samples start to deform while calculations of the amount of strain applied by the stenter frames showed to be much less, between 2.5-3.5 %. The difference in size between the test samples and the weaves must be considered when comparing these results. The small, repeated strains applied by the finishing line may eventually lead to permanent deformation of the weaves and appear as waves. The combination of the web and the beam tensions can also result in a stretch in the bias-direction of the weave which cause deformation in the middle of the weave where waves most often appear.The thermal properties of the same weaves were also tested through DSC, Differential Scanning Calorimetry, tests. The test results showed that the polyester material in the weaves does not melt or deform at the temperatures Almedahls use in their processes. The shrinkage of the grey-weaves during the de-sizing processes was also considered through width measurements. The conclusion was that the structure of the grey-weave influences how much the weave will shrink and the dimension change of the weave may influence the appearance of waves and needs more investigation. / Program: Magisterutbildning i textilteknologi

Almedahls have for some time started to receive more customer complaints about uneven roller blind fabrics or so-called waves over fabric. The waves are a major problem for Almedahls customers since they make it hard to cut the fabric into roller blinds. The company believes that the waves appear due to different process parameters within their finishing line but the company do not yet know how or where. The thesis project strives to find an explanation to what waves over fabric are, why they appear and how they can be reduced. The documentation that Almedahls have made of the problem so far, including photographs and customer complaints reports, was examined. Orders produced from four selected grey-weaves during the last three years was examined and compared to received customer complaints and standard operations lists. No clear relationship was found and weaves with longer process lines did not seem to cause more waves to appear. However, addition of an extra colouring to the standard operations appeared to be more frequently occurring when a standard operations list had been changed.Waves over fabric were at an early stage related to the mechanical properties of the weaves as the weaves are exposed to stresses and strains during the entire production line. In Almedahls’ finishing line the web and the beam tensions and the levelling mechanisms in the stenter frames appeared to be the parameters which especially apply stresses and strains. Tensile tests were performed to examine the mechanical properties of a few of Almedahls grey-weaves and half processed weave. The test results showed that a strain between 11-27 % can be applied before the test samples start to deform while calculations of the amount of strain applied by the stenter frames showed to be much less, between 2.5-3.5 %. The difference in size between the test samples and the weaves must be considered when comparing these results. The small, repeated strains applied by the finishing line may eventually lead to permanent deformation of the weaves and appear as waves. The combination of the web and the beam tensions can also result in a stretch in the bias-direction of the weave which cause deformation in the middle of the weave where waves most often appear.The thermal properties of the same weaves were also tested through DSC, Differential Scanning Calorimetry, tests. The test results showed that the polyester material in the weaves does not melt or deform at the temperatures Almedahls use in their processes. The shrinkage of the grey-weaves during the de-sizing processes was also considered through width measurements. The conclusion was that the structure of the grey-weave influences how much the weave will shrink and the dimension change of the weave may influence the appearance of waves and needs more investigation. / Program: Magisterutbildning i textilteknologi

This thesis presents a study of the sensing properties exhibited by textile-based knitted strain sensors. Sensing fabrics were manufactured from silver-plated conductive nylon and non-conducting elastomeric yarns. The component yarns offered similar diameters, bending characteristics and surface friction, but their production parameters differed in respect of the yarn input tension, the number of conductive courses in the sensing structure and the elastomeric yarn extension characteristics. The knitted sensors were manufactured using flat-bed knitting technology, and electro-mechanical tests were performed on the specimens using a tensile testing machine to apply strain whilst the sensor was incorporated into a Wheatstone bridge arrangement to allow electrical monitoring. The novel operational principle relies on the separation under strain of adjacent conducting knitted loops which are normally held in contact by the elastomeric yarn. The results confirm that production parameters play a fundamental role in determining the physical behaviour and the sensing properties of knitted sensors and the response could be engineered by varying the production parameters of specific designs. Results showed that the knitted structures could be manipulated to produce gauge factor values between 2.26 and 0.23 for sensors with working ranges of 8.4 % and 3.3 % respectively when the elastomeric yarn had 8 cN input tension. The generated signals were stable and repeatable, and under cyclic testing proved to be substantially free from long-term drift. A textile-based strain sensor was developed to create a respiration belt; this was realised by bringing together the extensible knitted sensor and a relatively inelastic textile strap. Machine simulations and real time measurements on a human subject were performed to calculate average breathing frequencies under different static and dynamic conditions. Various respiration rates were monitored to simulate different medical conditions and with the belt located either round the torso or in the abdominal area, the sensor yielded a satisfactory response. However, body motion artefacts affected the signal quality under dynamic conditions and an additional signal-processing step was added to separate unwanted interference from the breathing signal. Electro-mechanical modelling was developed by exploiting Peirce`s loop model in order to describe the fabric geometry under static and dynamic conditions. Kirchhoff`s node and loop equations were employed to create a generalised solution for the equivalent electrical resistance of the textile sensor for a given knitted loop geometry and for a specified number of loops. Experimental results were obtained from the sensor for strain levels up to 40% and these correlate well with the modelled data; a maximum error of 2.13 % was found between the experimental and modelled resistance-strain relationships.

Following a well-documented rise in the popularity of concrete shell application in the 20th century, thin concrete shells have experienced a global decline despite their potential as efficient structures with an economy of material use with aesthetics benefits. This phenomenon is subject to geographically determined socio-economic conditions and competition from other building solutions as a result of technological advancement in alternative construction systems. Importantly, their decline was attributed to limitations inherent to concrete shell formwork and construction methods. Being able to produce efficient shaping did not ensure that this method of construction is most cost efficient as it still remains difficult to construct double curved surfaces. The thesis addresses the limitations associated with past and present concrete shell building by proposing the use of actively-bent gridshells as re-configurable and reusable formwork for concrete shells to be designed and built. The hypothesis uses deployable scissor-jointed actively-bent gridshells as re-configurable and reusable formwork for concrete shell construction. This was developed from a series of Flash research (Benjamin, 2012) as student construction workshops to investigate the design and creation of actively-bent gridshells held between December 2008 and March 2011 in Sheffield. In this study, to understand this new system, scaled models of actively-bent gridshells were used as preliminary design aid. Deployed into three dimensional forms from a flexible flat grid mat, the structures were rigidized by bracing through triangulation restraints. The temporary rigid structure was subsequently enveloped with fabric onto which concrete was applied to create the concrete shell, thus acting as formwork. This formwork was then removed following the curing of the concrete cast to be reused repeatedly, or reconfigured into another concrete shell form. Hence, the thesis draws on the concepts, principles and ideas pertaining to three key architectural technologies: 1. concrete shell, 2. actively-bent gridshells and 3.fabric formwork. The thesis then presents a series of four prototype concrete shells constructed from different materials spanning between 1.3 meters and 2.45 meters in the workshops at the University of Edinburgh built between August 2014 and September 2015. For each experimental construction, the process of gridshell construction, fabric formwork preparation, concrete casting, gridshell formwork decentring and different design elements of openings, edges and anchorage abutments were analysed and discussed under the themes of construction, architectural tectonics and structure. The tectonic of process and material is understood and discussed based on the idea of stereogeneity (Manelius, 2012). Specifically, the relationship between gridshell as formwork and the concreting process was studied, analysed and assimilated in concrete shells built with progressive sophistication and elegance, culminating in a doubly-curved concrete shell that demonstrated both synclastic and anticlastic geometries, with further abutment simplification, edge leaning and physical openings incorporation. The study concludes with a physical concrete shell model formed by applying concrete onto fabric formwork to cover the Weald and Downland Jerwood gridshell. In the 1:20 scaled model, the proposed method is speculatively applied onto fabric stretched between pre-determined curvatures of the as-built gridshell. This formwork was subsequently removed for reuse, re-deployed and reconfigured. Using finite element analysis, the structural behaviour of the gridshell made of glass-fibre reinforced tubes and structural characteristics of the resultant concrete shell was checked. The interaction between the three technologies are discussed architectonically and structurally to inform guidelines for potential life-scale application. The thesis evidences the feasibility of the proposed system. It re-purposes a scaled model of a deployable gridshell as a physical modelling tool to facilitate concrete shell design, for both pure compression shells and "improper" shells, demonstrating its adaptability. It also promotes and reinvigorates concrete shells as possible architectural systems serving to instigate future research to revive concrete shell construction as an intelligent and intuitive way of creating structures with material economy, structural efficiency and visual elegance.

Resource scarcity and increasing environmental pressure have raised the stakes for rethinking material efficiency and textile recycling potential. As current practices fail to feed a closed loop recycling system, this research aims to contribute to the improvement of prevailing practices regarding denim as one of the most popular apparel materials worldwide while focusing on the issue of increasing amounts of discarded post-consumer textiles. The superordinate objective to define the optimum point for denim recycling to retain the value of the cotton fibre as long as possible in a closed loop system, thereby elevating the recycling efficiency, can be considered a key driver for the present research. The following data acquisition is constructed and executed along a mixed method research, in which a qualitative approach based on expert interviews informs and builds up on the quantitative counter part of laboratory use simulation testing on two different denim fabrics and vice versa, leading to an embedded research design. A subjective assessment of potential alterations of the denim fabrics’ visual and tactile characteristics, caused by the use simulation, provides quantitative data through an employed expert panel, which is enhanced by objectively recorded results from the conducted tear strength test and comparative weight investigation to inform changes regarding the physical properties. The applied research methods provide parameters to monitor the decomposition and weakening of the overall fabric structure throughout the experiment. The analysis of the data allowed to assign the number of washing and drying cycles, that a denim garment has undergone, to a corresponding degree of degradation. The presented findings are a valuable resource for developing and innovating current open-end recycling options. The maintenance of the raw material value throughout various reprocessing cycles can counteract the elevated natural fibre scarcity. The insights on the material and process level build a fundament for the successful operationalisation and management of sustainable recycling practices. Further research in this field can pave the way towards value retaining circularity.