Submitted by Deyse Queiroz (deysequeirozz@hotmail.com) on 2018-06-13T12:15:00Z No. of bitstreams: 1 MARIA DO SOCORRO ROCHA - DISSERTAÇÃO PPGEA 2004..pdf: 12014866 bytes, checksum: e5b21eb998760e2ed7cd6bdeddf94a3e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-06-13T12:15:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MARIA DO SOCORRO ROCHA - DISSERTAÇÃO PPGEA 2004..pdf: 12014866 bytes, checksum: e5b21eb998760e2ed7cd6bdeddf94a3e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2004-11 / A conservação e manipulação dos recursos genéticos vegetais de espécies de valor económico são de fundamental importância para a conservação em banco de germoplasma. Este trabalho teve como objetivo; a) avaliar a crioconservação de sementes de algodão das cultivares BRS-Verde, BRS-200, BRS-187-8H e 6MMocó e b) estudar a indução ao superbrotamento dos nós cotiledonares de plântulas do algodoeiro cultivados in vitro, para as mesmas cultivares supracitadas. Neste trabalho propôs-se inicialmente determinar do teor de água limite para crioconservação (TALC). Para esta determinação as sementes foram imersas ao nitrogénio líquido (-196°C) por cinco dias e após esse período elas forma descongelados e submetidas ao teste de germinação e vigor. Utilizou as armazenagem das sementes a 23°C por 5 dias como testemunha. O delineamento estatístico empregado foi o inteiramente casualizado com arranjo fatorial representado por (quatro cultivares x duas temperaturas x seis teor de água). Na crioconservação utilizou-se um lote de sementes com teor de água limite previamente determinado para as diferentes cultivares, a partir do qual se procedeu ao seu armazenamento em nitrogénio líquido (-196°C) e no vapor do nitrogénio (-170°C), durante 5, 30, 60 e 90 dias. O delineamento experimental utilizado nesta etapa foi o inteiramente casualizado em parcela sub-dividida no tempo, sendo a parcela representas pela interação (quatro cultivares x duas temperaturas de armazenamento) e a sub-parcela pelos quatro períodos de armazenamento. Em cada período de armazenamento, as sementes foram submetidas a testes de germinação e vigor. De acordo com os resultados obtidos póde-se concluir que: a) estudar a determinação do teor de água limite para crioconservação-TALC, durante 5 dias, o teor de água limite para a crioconservação das cultivares BRS-Verde, BRS-200, 6M-Mocó e BRS-187-8H considerando-se a germinação dessas cultivares está entre 6 e 8% (b.u.) e considerando-se o vigor das sementes o TALC é de 6% (b.u.); b) sementes de algodoeiro, das diferentes cultivares podem ser crioconservados em banco de germoplasma nas duas temperaturas, ou seja no vapor a -170°C ou imersa ao nitrogénio líquido a -196°C; c) a crioconservação aumenta o percentual de germinação e vigor das sementes de algodão, devido a essa temperatura a promover uma quebra de dormência pela ação do frio. No Capítulo II propôs-se a indução de superbrotamento, empregando como explante dos nós cotiledonares, plântulas cultivadas in vitro durante 25 dias. Os explantes foram cultivados em tubos de ensaio contendo o meio básico MS, suplementado com citocininas BAP, KIN e TDZ, isolados ou associados em diferentes concentrações. Os tubos de ensaio contendo os explantes foram mantidos em sala de crescimento regulada à temperatura de 28°C, fotoperíodo de 16/8h (claro/escuro) e intensidade luminosa de 50umol.m2.s1 , durante 40 dias os quais foram avaliados por meio do delineamento inteiramente casualizado, com arranjo fatorial de 4x17 (quatro cultivares x dezessete meios), sendo então avaliadas quanto ao número de brotos emitidos e altura de brotos. De acordo com os resultados obtidos póde-se concluir que: O meio MS suplementados com BAP (2,0 mg.L"1) isolado ou associado com KIN (1,0mg.L"1), promoveu uma maior capacidade de regeneração e altura de brotos; b) o meio MS suplementados com BAP (2,5 mg.L"1) estimulou maior altura de brotos;c)o meio MS suplementados com TDZ (1,0 mg.L"1 , 0,50 mg.L"1e 0,25 mg.L"1) afetou a capacidade de regeneração de brotos, obteve formação de calos. / A conservação e manipulação dos recursos genéticos vegetais de espécies de valor económico, são de fundamental importância para a conservação em banco de germoplasma. Este trabalho teve como objetivo: a) avaliar a crioconservação de sementes de algodão das cultivares BRS-Verde, BRS-200- Marrom, BRS-187-8H-Branco e 6 M-Mocó-Branco e b) estudar a indução ao superbrotamento dos nós cotiledonares de plântulas do algodoeiro cultivados in vitro, para as mesmas cultivares supracitadas. Inicialmente, determina-se do teor de água limite para crioconservação (TALC). Para esta determinação, as sementes foram imersas no nitrogénio líquido (-196°C) durante cinco dias e após este período elas foram descongelados e submetidas ao teste de germinação e vigor. Utilizou-se a armazenagem das sementes a 23°C por 5 dias, como testemunha. O delineamento estatístico empregado foi o inteiramente casualizado com arranjo fatorial representado por (quatro cultivares x duas temperaturas x seis teores de água). Na crioconservação utilizou-se um lote de sementes com teor de água limite previamente determinado para as diferentes cultivares, a partir do qual se procedeu ao seu armazenamento em nitrogénio líquido (-196°C) e no vapor do nitrogénio (-170°C), durante 5, 30, 60 e 90 dias. O delineamento experimental usado nesta etapa foi o inteiramente casualizado, em parcela subdividida no tempo, sendo a parcela representada pela interação (quatro cultivares x duas temperaturas de armazenamento) e a subparcela pelos quatro períodos de armazenamento. Em cada período de armazenamento as sementes foram submetidas a testes de germinação e vigor. De acordo com os resultados obtidos concluiu-se que: a) O teor de água limite para crioconservação-TALC, durante 5 dias, para a crioconservação das cultivares BRS-Verde, BRS-200-Marrom, 6MMocó- Branco e BRS-187-8H-Branco, considerando-se a germinação dessas cultivares está entre 6 e 8% (b.u.) e, quanto os vigor das sementes, o TALC foi de 6% (b.u.); b) sementes de algodoeiro das diferentes cultivares podem ser crioconservadas em banco de germoplasma, nas duas temperaturas, ou seja, no vapor a -170°C ou imersa ao nitrogénio líquido a -196°C; c) a crioconservação aumenta o percentual de germinação e vigor das sementes de algodão, em virtude dessa temperatura promover quebra de dormência, pela ação do frio. No Capítulo II propôs-se a indução de superbrotamento, empregando-se como explante nós cotiledonares de plântulas cultivadas in vitro durante 25 dias. Os explantes foram inoculados em tubos de ensaio contendo o meio básico MS, suplementado com citocininas BAP, KIN e TDZ, isolados ou associados a diferentes concentrações. Os tubos de ensaio contendo os explantes foram mantidos em sala de crescimento regulada à temperatura de 28°C, fotoperíodo de 16/8h (claro/escuro) e intensidade luminosa de 50umol.m2.s1 , durante 40 dias, os quais foram avaliados por meio do delineamento inteiramente casualizado, com arranjo fatorial de 4x17 (quatro cultivares x dezessete meios), sendo então avaliadas quanto ao número de brotos emitidos e altura do comprimento de brotos. De acordo com os resultados obtidos pôde-se concluir que: a) o meio MS suplementado com BAP (2,0mg.L~1) isolado ou associado a KIN (1,0mg.L~1), promoveu maior capacidade de regeneração e altura de brotos; b) o meio MS suplementado com BAP(2,5mg.L"1 ) estimulou altura superior de brotos; c) o meio MS suplementado com TDZ (1,0mg.L~1, 0,50mg.L"1 e 0,25mg.L"1) afetou a capacidade de regeneração de brotos e a formação de calos.

Dans cette étude doctorale, nous proposons d’étudier la durabilité de deux matériaux composites à matrices thermodurcissable et thermoplastique renforcées par des tissus sergé de lin. Nous analysons d’abord la cinétique de diffusion d'eau dans les deux composites par identification de leurs paramètres de diffusion 3D, via une approche d’optimisation basée sur les modèles de Fick et de Langmuir 3D. Nous étudions ensuite l’effet de plusieurs paramètres géométriques et l’orientation des fibres sur la cinétique de diffusion d’eau au sein des deux composites. Nous analysons par la suite l'effet du vieillissement hydrique sur leurs propriétés élastiques et à la rupture. Enfin, nous proposons une analyse numérique par éléments finis de la diffusion d’eau au sein des deux composites et de leur comportement hydro-élastique. Nous estimons ainsi les paramètres de diffusion de la fibre de lin et des matrices à travers une approche numérique inverse, en décrivant la section et l’ondulation des mèches de lin au sein des deux matériaux. Nous montrons en particulier que les composites non vieillis présentent un comportement mécanique proche de l'effet Kaiser. Cependant, les composites vieillis présentent clairement un effet Felicity, ce qui indique la présence significative d’endommagements induits par l’absorption d'eau. Nous affirmons enfin que l’analyse numérique permet d’identifier d’importantes concentrations de contraintes pouvant induire des endommagements microstructuraux au sein des composites étudiés. / In this thesis work, we study the durability of two twill flax fabrics reinforced thermosetting and thermoplastic composites. Firstly, the diffusion behaviour of these composites is investigated by identifying their 3D Fick’s and Langmuir’s diffusion parameters using an optimization algorithm. The influence of several geometric parameters and fibre orientation on their 3D moisture diffusion is also studied. Then, we analyse the effect of water ageing on their elastic and failure properties. Finally, a numerical finite element analysis is performed in order to study their diffusive and hydro-mechanical behaviour. The water diffusion parameters of the flax fibre and the used resins are estimated by a numerical inverse analysis exploiting experimental water uptake data. The heterogeneity of the studied composites is considered by modelling the twill weave fabrics undulation of their unit-cell. In particular, the mechanical behaviour of the unaged composites is found to exhibit a Kaiser effect contrary to the aged materials which exhibit a significant Felicity effect synonymous of substantial damage induced by water ageing. Besides, it is found that high mechanical stress concentrations are developed at the fibre-matrix interface, which could cause damage initiation and lead to the final composite failure.

L’étude propose une vue d’ensemble de la création textile à travers différents prismes puisque nous abordons les pratiques artistiques utilisant les costumes d’époque, la broderie, l’assemblage textile, les cheveux, les tissus traditionnels, la tapisserie ou encore l’art du quilting. Qu’il s’agisse des oeuvres de Yinka Shonibare, Louise Bourgeois, Hassan Musa, Faith Ringgold, Kimsooja ou Tracey Emin, chacun des artistes sélectionnés pour notre étude, propose une recherche visant une pertinence culturelle grâce à l’élaboration d’une pratique plastique où expériences personnelles et collectives s’entremêlent. La pertinence culturelle étant entendue ici comme une reconstruction critique et théorique d’une histoire par l’appropriation de matériaux et/ou de techniques textiles spécifiques. Nous avons opté pour un travail thématique afin d’analyser au mieux ce que nous appelons la scène textile globale. Une première partie propose l’analyse des travaux d’artistes réfléchissant sur l’histoire et la culture noire. Nous étudierons une sélection d’oeuvres mettant en lumière deux traumas : l’esclavage et le colonialisme, ainsi que leurs répercussions actuelles sur la culture et la société. Ainsi les travaux de Faith Ringgold, Yinka Shonibare, Hassan Musa et Maria Magdalena Campos-Pons seront analysés afin de parler de problématiques comme « l’hybridité culturelle », la créolisation, la situation de l’art contemporain africain ou encore la représentation du corps noir dans l’art. Une seconde partie est axée sur les notions d’exil, de diaspora et de l’inconfort induit par le nomadisme, le statut « entre-deux ». Les pratiques de Mona Hatoum, de femmes artistes arabes comme Lalla Essaydi, Shadi Ghadirian ou Ghazel, ainsi que les travaux de Kimsooja, Janine Antoni et Ana de la Cueva nous permettrons d’entrer au coeur d’une scène artistique dont les enjeux critiques nous portent à réfléchir sur la mondialité, dans ses aspects positifs (enrichissement, échange, dialogue) comme négatifs (uniformisation, standardisation, perte des spécificités locales). Grâce au vecteur textile, chacun de ces artistes appréhende le monde et la société d’une manière à la fois poétique, critique et politique. Une troisième partie est dédiée aux artistes (majoritairement des femmes) ayant choisi l’utilisation de techniques textiles traditionnelles comme la broderie, le tissage ou la tapisserie. Avec l’explosion de la scène féministe depuis les années 1970 jusqu’aux travaux actuels, la broderie n’est désormais plus considérée comme un loisir typiquement féminin, mais comme une véritable arme politique. Une arme dirigée vers le machisme, le patriarcat ou encore les inégalités liées au genre. Dans ce cadre, les pratiques d’artistes comme Elaine Reichek, Judy Chicago, Louise Bourgeois, Joana Vasconcelos, Tracey Emin, Ghada Amer, Cathy Burghi, permettront d’aborder la broderie dans l’art contemporain de manière diversifiée et hétérogène. À travers ces différentes analyses, nous observons la déconstruction de la hiérarchie des arts et le fait que l’art textile contemporain apparaît comme un art engagé et pertinent, proposant des perspectives de réflexions riches en lien avec les problématiques du monde actuel. / The study advises an overview of the textile creation in the widest sense because we approach the artistic practices using period costumes, embroidery, textile assembly, hair, traditional fabrics, tapestry or quilting art. That it is about works of Yinka Shonibare, Louise Bourgeois, Hassan Musa, Faith Ringgold, Kimsooja or Tracey Emin, each of the artists chosen for the study, is in search of a cultural relevance within his artistic practice where personal and collective experiences are interwoven. The cultural relevance being understood here as a critical and theoretical reconstruction of a (his)story by the mean of appropriation of specific textile materials and techniques. We opted for a thematic work to analyze at best what we call the global textile scene. A first part proposes the analysis of works from artists who think about Black culture and history. We will study works that shade light on two traumas: Slavery and colonialism, as well as their echoes on nowadays culture and society. So the works of Faith Ringgold, Yinka Shonibare, Hassan Musa and Maria Magdalena Campos-Pons will be revealed to speak about issues such as “cultural hybridity”, creolization and the situation of the African contemporary art or also the representation of the Black body in art. A second part is centred on the notions of exile, Diaspora, discomfort caused by nomadism and the “in-between” status. The practices of Mona Hatoum, Arab women artists such as Lalla Essaydi, Shadi Ghadirian or Ghazel, and the works of Kimsooja, Janine Antoni and Ana de la Cueva will allow us to enter the heart of an artistic scene the critical stakes of which carry us to think about the globalisation, within its positive (enrichment, exchanges, dialog) as negatives aspects (standardisation, losing of local specificities). Each of these artists dreads the world and the society in a poetic and political way. The third part is finally dedicated to the women artists who chose the use of traditional techniques as embroidery, weaving or tapestry. Since the explosion of the feminist scene during the 1970s until current works, embroidery is henceforth no more considered as a typically feminine leisure, but as a real political weapon. A weapon steered towards the male chauvinism, patriarchy or gendered disparities. In this frame, the practices of such artists as Elaine Reichek, Judy Chicago, Louise Bourgeois, Joana Vasconcelos, Tracey Emin, Ghada Amer, Cathy Burghi, will allow to approach the embroidery in contemporary art in a diversified and heterogeneous way. Through these various analyses, we observe the deconstruction of art hierarchy and that contemporary textile art appears as a committed and relevant art, proposing perspectives of rich reflections in connection with the actual issues of our world.

The main vision of wearable computing is to make electronic systems an important part of everyday clothing in the future which will serve as intelligent personal assistants. Wearable devices have the potential to be wearable computers and not mere input/output devices for the human body. The present thesis focuses on introducing a new wearable computing paradigm, where the processing elements are closely coupled with the sensors that are distributed using Instruction Systolic Array (ISA) architecture. The thesis describes a novel, multiple sensor, multiple processor system architecture prototype based on the Instruction Systolic Array paradigm for distributed computing on fabrics. The thesis introduces new programming model to implement the distributed computer on fabrics. The implementation of the concept has been validated using parallel algorithms. A real-time shape sensing and reconstruction application has been implemented on this architecture and has demonstrated a physical design for a wearable system based on the ISA concept constructed from off-the-shelf microcontrollers and sensors. Results demonstrate that the real time application executes on the prototype ISA implementation thus confirming the viability of the proposed architecture for fabric-resident computing devices.

Made available in DSpace on 2009-11-18T19:01:01Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 ACF1E3.pdf: 512714 bytes, checksum: d7597d78a6f5f7a97aea6058016230f8 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007 / This study shows how the Industrial Cluster of garments in Valença, RJ ¿ comprised of micro and small enterprises ¿ contributes to overcome the problems left by the declining period of the textile industry. At first, the city took advantage of its talent for textile work and turned to the clothing sector, which now relies on garment factories, subcontractors, cooperatives and laundries in order to create jobs. There is institutional support, but the analysis of the situation identified the need for higher involvement of cluster players, as well as a higher interaction among them to help their own development. In regard to public and private institutions, there is room for steps to guide informal companies that find it difficult to afford labor, financial, and environmental costs towards formalization, the offer of management and labor skill programs, as well as entrepreneurs¿ awareness about the acquisition of modern-technology machinery. It is important to encourage higher participation of Valença firms in the national fashion events, since this draws attention to the name of the city, discloses the work that is carried out there, and attracts new businesses. The entry of Valença companies in the fashion arena of the southern region of Rio de Janeiro state is beneficial, especially to make them better prepared for the Fashion Rio/Fashion Business event. Informality as a way out of the unemployment problem is a growing trend in Valença, as well as in most of Brazilian cities. In this sense, the entrepreneurs need to find favorable steps to make them feel motivated to formalize their businesses. / Este estudo mostra como a formação do Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) do setor de confecções de Valença-RJ, composto por pequenas e microempresas, contribuiu para a superação das dificuldades deixadas pelo período decadente das fábricas de tecido. A princípio, a cidade aproveitou a vocação para o trabalho têxtil e se voltou para o setor de confecções atualmente marcado pela existência de confecções, facções, cooperativas e lavanderias para a geração de empregos. Há a presença de apoio institucional, mas a análise da situação detectou a necessidade de maior engajamento dos atores do APL e interação entre eles em prol do seu desenvolvimento. No caso das instituições públicas e privadas, há espaço para ações que orientem as empresas informais em suas dificuldades para arcar com os custos trabalhistas, fiscais e ambientais rumo à formalização, promoção de ofertas de cursos de capacitação gerencial e de qualificação da mão-de-obra, bem como sensibilização dos empresários quanto à aquisição de maquinário moderno tecnologicamente mais competitivo. Estimular a maior participação das empresas de Valença em eventos de moda de âmbito nacional é relevante, uma vez que enfatiza o nome da cidade, divulgando os trabalhos elaborados e atraindo novos negócios. A introdução de empresas valencianas no Pólo de Moda Sul Fluminense traz benefícios, especialmente tendo-se em vista a melhor preparação para o evento Fashion Rio/Fashion Business. Um caso comum e cada vez mais crescente que ocorre na maioria das cidades brasileiras se observa também em Valença. Trata-se da informalidade como saída para a questão do desemprego. Neste sentido, é preciso que os empreendedores encontrem ações vantajosas para que eles se sintam motivados a formalizarem suas empresas.

The clothing industry is multifaceted and is characterised by garments with a short life cycle, unstable customer needs and varying fashion styles. This affects the accuracy of demand planning. In SA, the clothing industry has experienced a decline in the number of clothing manufacturers and manufacturing outputs as well as fluctuations in employment. This study investigates demand planning practices in the Gauteng clothing industry. A descriptive and exploratory study was conducted based on a semi-structured questionnaire. The structured data was descriptively analysed using SPSS and inferentially analysed using the Kruskal‒Wallis test as well as content analysis for the unstructured questions. The findings revealed that demand planning practices in the Gauteng clothing industry are conducted using the hierarchical and optimal demand planning approaches. The results also revealed that there are certain factors which affect the way demand planning is conducted in the clothing industry in Gauteng. These factors includes: scheduling, fashion clothes, point of sale system, imports, estimation, recession and lead time. Furthermore, the study revealed that there are differences in the factors affecting demand planning regarding the three key clothing stakeholders (fabric suppliers, clothing manufacturers and fashion designers). The study revealed that key demand planning practices employed in the Gauteng clothing industry are production planning, uncertainty prevention, forecasting and production machine capabilities. These practices are important attributes of the hierarchical and optimal demand planning approaches. The study recommends that the hierarchical demand planning approach is more effective when planning for basic clothes (which involved planning horizon of twelve months), while the optimal demand planning approach is effective when planning for fashion clothes (which involved planning horizon of six months). The study recommends that the Gauteng clothing industry should consider factors which affect demand planning when planning for customers' needs as they affect the level of productivity in the organisation. / Entrepreneurship Supply Chain Transport Tourism and Logistics Management / M. Com.(Logistics)

The Zittau people and their churches (approx. 1300-1600) The essay deals with the church history in the town of Zittau in Upper Lusatia, today's federal state of Saxony, Germany, in late Middle Ages and Early Modern Era. The main focus of the work was to illustrate the changes of religious institutions and benefactions throughout the era. Most importantly, we dealt with the fate of mostly medieval benefactions during reformation, which established a cultural break point in the given region. We analysed a broad spectrum of benefactions, ranging from small ones (masses, alms etc.) to more complex ones (monasteries, hospitals, church fabric etc.). The essay consists of three sections. The first section is dedicated to Middle Ages and it focuses on ancient history, i. e. the starting point from which the religious benefactions entered the reformation era. The second section focuses on the town of Zittau in the era of reformation and on the process of validation of the new denomination. We specifically focus on the end of four monasteries' benefactions in the course of 16th century, taken over by the Zittau city council. The third section deals with the fate of another general benefaction, i. e. the church fabric of Zitttau parish church, which, unlike the monasteries, successfully survived the...

L’objectif de ce travail est de déterminer les processus à l’œuvre dans le développement d’Angers sur une période s’étendant de l’édification de l’enceinte de la Cité au tournant des 3e – 4e s. jusqu’à l’édification d’une nouvelle enceinte au milieu du 13e s. Trois approches ont été retenues. La première est une analyse de certains aspects de la topographie historique : morphologie parcellaire, réseaux viaires, quartiers à dominante ecclésiastique et funéraire. À partir de la documentation historique, matérielle comme écrite, la deuxième approche s’intéresse aux territoires en tant que tels : civitas, urbs, suburbium, burgus et parrochia. Tous se rapportent à tout ou partie de la ville, fractions de l’espace urbain autonomisées par certains groupes sociaux en fonction de besoins propres. La dernière approche traite des relations mettant en jeu les acteurs et leurs territoires à travers la manière dont ceux-ci appréhendent et mobilisent leur espace, considérant que leurs actions traduisent leurs représentations spatiales. Un chapitre conclusif de modélisation chrono-chorématique mobilise l’ensemble des informations traitées et des conclusions avancées et met en évidence les structures sous-jacentes de l’agglomération. / The purpose of this work is to study the urban fabric of Angers from the building of the city walls at the end of the 3rd century until the building of a larger enclosure by the middle of the 13th century. Three main lines were followed. The first one is an analysis based on some aspects of historical topography : morphology of the plots, street patterns, ecclesiastical and funerary areas. The second one deals with various territories: civitas, urbs, suburbium, burgus and parrochia. All of them relate to parts of the town which get some kind of autonomy through the needs of various groups of people. The last aspect deals with the relations between the social groups and their territories through the way the first ones conceive their space, assuming actions express spatial representations. A conclusive chapter offers a chrono-chorematic modelling based on all the information and the previous conclusions, which brings out the underlying structures of the town.

La découverte à Tours de plus de six mille fragments de textiles dans la même fosse, à l’extérieur du rempart qui longe la berge de la Loire (site 69 « place Anatole France »), a permis d’étudier tout le processus du travail textile, du fil au rejet. La quasi-totalité des éléments examinés sont en drap de laine, grande industrie en Europe aux 15e – 16e siècles. Tout comme pour les soieries, moins bien conservées, l’étude s’est attachée à déterminer s’il s’agit de produits tourangeaux. Le traitement des draps de laine, augmentant leur résistance, a permis l’observation des formes, dont quelques pièces de vêtements isolées. Les pièces vestimentaires ont été découpées pour produire lacets et chausses avec une fréquence qui incite à voir dans le rejet la vidange d’un atelier de fripier. Ce corpus et l’analyse de chartes concernant la ville de Tours ouvrent un aperçu de la vie quotidienne dans une capitale de la fin du Moyen Âge, où les habitants relativement fortunés sont vêtus de bon drap et, malgré l’interdiction, de vêtements et accessoires de soie / The discovery in Tours of a set of almost 6000 pieces in the same pit, located just outside the city walls along the Loire River ("place Anatole France") provides an opportunity to study the entire process of textile work. The fragments studied are mostly wool cloth, which was a significant commercial production on the 15th - 16th centuries. As for remains of silk which are less well preserved, the study attempted to determine if they were produced in Tours. Among the shapes of wool remains, remarkably preserved, were a few clear parts of garments. Textiles were re-used to fashion laces and hoses in such a high frequency that the corpus is interpreted as the emptying of a second-hand clothes dealer shop. This corpus, combined with law texts regarding Tours, provides a picture of a late medieval capital city, where bourgeoisie wore good broadcloth and, contrary to law, silk dress accessories

Les matériaux à particules hautement déformables sont des formes complexes de matière avec de nombreuses applications en chimie, pharmacie, cosmétique et agro-alimentaire. L’effet conjugué du désordre et des grandes déformations des particules conduit à des propriétés mécaniques nouvelles par rapport aux matériaux à particules indéformables. En particulier, la compressibilité et la résistance au cisaillement sont contrôlées par une combinaison de réarrangements et de changement de forme des particules. Dans ce travail de thèse, nous avons développé une approche numérique originale pour la simulation de ces systèmes. Pour permettre aux particules de se déformer indéfiniment, nous avons modélisé chaque particule par un agrégat de particules primaires sans frottement qui interagissent par une force d’attraction de type Lennard-Jones et une contrainte de non-interpénétration. La dissipation d’énergie par collisions inélastiques entre les particules primaires confère un caractère plastique aux déformations des particules. Nous avons utilisé ce modèle pour étudier les propriétés de compaction et de cisaillement de ces systèmes. Nos résultats ont permis de mettre en évidence le caractère non-linéaire de la compressibilité lorsque la compacité progressivement augmente au-delà de celles des assemblages de particules indéformables. Sous cisaillement, un état critique est atteint avec une dilatance contrôlée par la pression de confinement. Dans cet état, nous avons exploré les distributions des formes des particules, les textures et les distributions des forces pour différentes valeurs de la pression. Nous avons également comparé la compressibilité simulée par l’approche développée avec celle obtenue par la Méthode de Points Matériels (MPM) en utilisant des particules élastiques. / Soft-particle materials are complex forms of matter that occur in numerous applications in chemical, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food products. Joint effects of disorder and large particle deformations lead to novel mechanical properties that differ from those of rigid-particle materials. In particular, the compressibility and shear resistance depend on both particle rearrangements and their shape change. In this doctoral work, we developed an original approach for numerical simulation of these systems. To allow the particles to deform without breakage, each particle is modeled as an aggregate of frictionless primary particles interacting via a Lennard-Jones attraction force and impenetrability constraints. Energy dissipation by inelastic collisions between primary particles leads to the plastic nature of particle deformations. This model was used to investigate the compaction and shear behavior of soft-particle systems. We find that the compressibility is strongly nonlinear as the packing fraction increases beyond that of a random close packing of rigid particles. In continuous shearing, a critical state is reached with a dilatancy that depends on the confining pressure. In this state, we investigate the shear resistance, distributions of particle shapes, fabric properties and inter-particle forces as a function of the confining pressure. We also compare our results with those obtained by using the Material Point Method (MPM) with elastic particles.