The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries globally and needs to change to meet the UN's Sustainable Development Goals. Cotton fabric constitutes approximately 50% of all textiles. Its production is complex, and it is crucial to map all its processes to assess the environmental impact. Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a common tool to execute this, and there are software tools to simplify the conduction. However, the complexity of textile production, especially the pretreatment process, makes the assessments time-consuming. Therefore, this thesis examined how the environmental assessment of the cotton fabric could be more efficiently organised. The study was an exploratory single case study at a large furniture company. To pursue, the literature processed the topics of designing and producing cotton fabric, environmental assessment of cotton fabric, and organising environmental assessment. The results and analysis were formulated into the three themes: organising environmental assessment, environmental data management, and circularity. Also, the environmental data from the pretreatment process was presented. The discussion of the findings resulted in some conditions to organise for a more efficient environmental assessment of cotton fabric and applicable to other products. Based on the literature and empirics, the conditions were concluded in requirement, development, and potential. In general, the need for an extended LCA tool which enables comparison of processes and includes all sustainability aspects was discovered. Further, to organise the execution of environmental assessment more efficiently, the study clarified the importance of increasing communication and transparency. Meanwhile, extending the data management authority to experts in the textile department to relieve the environmental department. / Textilindustrin är en av de mest förorenande industrierna globalt och behöver förändras för att uppfylla FN:s hållbara utvecklingsmål. 50% av alla textilier består av bumull. Dess produktion är komplex och det är avgörande att kartlägga alla dess processer för att bedöma miljöpåverkan. Livscykelanalys (LCA) är ett vanligt verktyg för att utföra detta, och det finns mjukvaruverktyg för att förenkla utförandet. Komplexitet i textilproduktion, särskilt förbehandlingsprocessen, gör dock bedömningarna tidskrävande. Därför undersökte denna rapport hur miljöbedömningen av bomullstyget kan organiseras mer effektivt. Studien var en explorativ enskild fallstudie på ett stort möbelföretag. Litteraturen behandlade ämnena design och tillverkning av bomullstyg, miljöbedömning av bomullstyg och organisering av miljöbedömning. Resultaten och analysen formulerades i de tre teman: organisering av miljöbedömning, miljödatahantering och cirkularitet. Även miljödata från förbehandlingsprocessen presenterades. Diskussionen av empirin resulterade i förutsättningar för att organisera en mer effektiv miljöbedömning av bomullstyg, som även är tillämpbar på andra produkter. Baserat på litteraturen och empirin gavs förutsättningarna i form av krav, utveckling och potential. Sammanfattningsvis upptäcktes behovet av ett utökat LCA-verktyg som möjliggör jämförelse av processer och inkluderar alla hållbarhetsaspekter. Vidare, för att organisera genomförandet av miljöbedömningar mer effektivt, klargjorde studien vikten av att öka kommunikationen och transparensen. Dessutom utöka datahanteringsbehörigheten till experter på textilavdelningen för att avlasta miljöavdelningen.

This paper describes my work with a historical craft and my attempt to find new ways to look at it, work with it and present it. I use the embroidery technique Hardangersaum which is all white, and where selected threads of the woven fabric grid are removed while others are wrapped and embellished. The artistic research leans heavily on the traditional craft but tries to isolate it from its historical baggage. I turn my focus to the grid of the fabric and I present some viewpoints from Rosalind Krauss and Hannah B. Higgins. I describe questions of scale and presentation that have emerged and show how digital animation has played a major role in the development and the communication of the embroidery work.

Increasingly complex applications and recent shifts in technology scaling have created a large demand for microprocessors which can perform tasks more quickly and more energy efficient. Conventional microarchitectures exploit multiple levels of parallelism to increase instruction throughput and use application specific instruction sets or hardware accelerators to increase energy efficiency. Reconfigurable microprocessors adopt the same principle of providing application specific hardware, however, with the significant advantage of post-fabrication flexibility. Not only does this offer similar gains in performance but also the flexibility to configure each device individually. This thesis explored the benefit of a tight coupled and fine-grained reconfigurable microprocessor. In contrast to previous research, a detailed design space exploration of logical architectures for island-style field programmable gate arrays (FPGAs) has been performed in the context of a commercial 22nm process technology. Other research projects either reused general purpose architectures or spent little effort to design and characterize custom fabrics, which are critical to system performance and the practicality of frequently proposed high-level software techniques. Here, detailed circuit implementations and a custom area model were used to estimate the performance of over 200 different logical FPGA architectures with single-driver routing. Results of this exploration revealed similar tradeoffs and trends described by previous studies. The number of lookup table (LUT) inputs and the structure of the global routing network were shown to have a major impact on the area delay product. However, results suggested a much larger region of efficient architectures than before. Finally, an architecture with 5-LUTs and 8 logic elements per cluster was selected. Modifications to the microprocessor, whichwas based on an industry proven instruction set architecture, and its software toolchain provided access to this embedded reconfigurable fabric via custom instructions. The baseline microprocessor was characterized with estimates from signoff data for a 28nm hardware implementation. A modified academic FPGA tool flow was used to transform Verilog implementations of custom instructions into a post-routing netlist with timing annotations. Simulation-based verification of the system was performed with a cycle-accurate processor model and diverse application benchmarks, ranging from signal processing, over encryption to computation of elementary functions. For these benchmarks, a significant increase in performance with speedups from 3 to 15 relative to the baseline microprocessor was achieved with the extended instruction set. Except for one case, application speedup clearly outweighed the area overhead for the extended system, even though the modeled fabric architecturewas primitive and contained no explicit arithmetic enhancements. Insights into fundamental tradeoffs of island-style FPGA architectures, the developed exploration flow, and a concrete cost model are relevant for the development of more advanced architectures. Hence, this work is a successful proof of concept and has laid the basis for further investigations into architectural extensions and physical implementations. Potential for further optimizationwas identified on multiple levels and numerous directions for future research were described. / Zunehmend komplexere Anwendungen und Besonderheiten moderner Halbleitertechnologien haben zu einer großen Nachfrage an leistungsfähigen und gleichzeitig sehr energieeffizienten Mikroprozessoren geführt. Konventionelle Architekturen versuchen den Befehlsdurchsatz durch Parallelisierung zu steigern und stellen anwendungsspezifische Befehlssätze oder Hardwarebeschleuniger zur Steigerung der Energieeffizienz bereit. Rekonfigurierbare Prozessoren ermöglichen ähnliche Performancesteigerungen und besitzen gleichzeitig den enormen Vorteil, dass die Spezialisierung auf eine bestimmte Anwendung nach der Herstellung erfolgen kann. In dieser Diplomarbeit wurde ein rekonfigurierbarer Mikroprozessor mit einem eng gekoppelten FPGA untersucht. Im Gegensatz zu früheren Forschungsansätzen wurde eine umfangreiche Entwurfsraumexploration der FPGA-Architektur im Zusammenhang mit einem kommerziellen 22nm Herstellungsprozess durchgeführt. Bisher verwendeten die meisten Forschungsprojekte entweder kommerzielle Architekturen, die nicht unbedingt auf diesen Anwendungsfall zugeschnitten sind, oder die vorgeschlagenen FGPA-Komponenten wurden nur unzureichend untersucht und charakterisiert. Jedoch ist gerade dieser Baustein ausschlaggebend für die Leistungsfähigkeit des gesamten Systems. Deshalb wurden im Rahmen dieser Arbeit über 200 verschiedene logische FPGA-Architekturen untersucht. Zur Modellierung wurden konkrete Schaltungstopologien und ein auf den Herstellungsprozess zugeschnittenes Modell zur Abschätzung der Layoutfläche verwendet. Generell wurden die gleichen Trends wie bei vorhergehenden und ähnlich umfangreichen Untersuchungen beobachtet. Auch hier wurden die Ergebnisse maßgeblich von der Größe der LUTs (engl. "Lookup Tables") und der Struktur des Routingnetzwerks bestimmt. Gleichzeitig wurde ein viel breiterer Bereich von Architekturen mit nahezu gleicher Effizienz identifiziert. Zur weiteren Evaluation wurde eine FPGA-Architektur mit 5-LUTs und 8 Logikelementen ausgewählt. Die Performance des ausgewählten Mikroprozessors, der auf einer erprobten Befehlssatzarchitektur aufbaut, wurde mit Ergebnissen eines 28nm Testchips abgeschätzt. Eine modifizierte Sammlung von akademischen Softwarewerkzeugen wurde verwendet, um Spezialbefehle auf die modellierte FPGA-Architektur abzubilden und eine Netzliste für die anschließende Simulation und Verifikation zu erzeugen. Für eine Reihe unterschiedlicher Anwendungs-Benchmarks wurde eine relative Leistungssteigerung zwischen 3 und 15 gegenüber dem ursprünglichen Prozessor ermittelt. Obwohl die vorgeschlagene FPGA-Architektur vergleichsweise primitiv ist und keinerlei arithmetische Erweiterungen besitzt, musste dabei, bis auf eine Ausnahme, kein überproportionaler Anstieg der Chipfläche in Kauf genommen werden. Die gewonnen Erkenntnisse zu den Abhängigkeiten zwischen den Architekturparametern, der entwickelte Ablauf für die Exploration und das konkrete Kostenmodell sind essenziell für weitere Verbesserungen der FPGA-Architektur. Die vorliegende Arbeit hat somit erfolgreich den Vorteil der untersuchten Systemarchitektur gezeigt und den Weg für mögliche Erweiterungen und Hardwareimplementierungen geebnet. Zusätzlich wurden eine Reihe von Optimierungen der Architektur und weitere potenziellen Forschungsansätzen aufgezeigt.

L’esprit dialectique qui caractérise la posture intellectuelle d’Aldo Rossi en tant qu’enseignant et architecte, cristallise durant les années 1960, en Italie, une nouvelle approche de l’enseignement de la théorie du projet en architecture. Cherchant à être rationnel tout en intégrant la question de « l’élément subjectif » de l’architecte, au travers de son expérience, la posture intellectuelle de Rossi s’est positionnée en réponse à un contexte politique et universitaire en crise. Dans la continuité des recherches menées sur l’épistémologie et la pédagogie de l’architecture ainsi que sur son ouverture réflexive à d’autres champs disciplinaires, Rossi tente de construire un essai théorique à la Fabrique du projet (la Città analoga). Il y questionne la pensée analogique face aux études typologiques en cherchant à esquisser une méthode didactique fonctionnant par étapes. Face à la difficulté de rationaliser « l’élément subjectif », Rossi, prolonge son essai sur la Fabrique du projet, au travers de ses propres œuvres. / The dialectical spirit which characterizes Aldo Rossi's intellectual disposition as a teacher and architect practitioner, crystallized during the 1960s, in Italy, a new approach to the teaching of the theory of the project in architecture. Trying to be rational while integrating the question of " the subjective element " of the architect, through his experience, the intellectual posture of Rossi was positioned in response to a political and university crisis. In the continuity of the researches led by the epistemology and the pedagogy of architecture and on his reflexive openness to other disciplinary fields, Rossi tries to build a theoretical essay to the Fabric of the project (Città analoga). He questions the analogical thought in front of the typological studies and tries to sketch a didactic method step by step. Facing the difficulty of rationalising " the subjective element ", Rossi, extends his essay on the Factory of the project, through his own works.

Dans le contexte industriel de la mise en forme des matériaux composites à renforts fibreux, l’outil de simulation est devenu partie intégrante de l’amélioration des procédés. Aujourd’hui, les simulations numériques de la mise en forme des renforts fibreux sont pour la plupart basées sur une approche macroscopique et des modèles de matériaux continus dont on suppose que le comportement est non linéaire élastique, donc réversible. Or on sait que sous chargement non-monotones (charges et décharges), les renforts fibreux montrent d’importantes irréversibilités, liées notamment aux glissements entre mèches et entre fibres. La première partie de ce travail consiste à caractériser l’importance des irréversibilités par des tests de charges/décharges à l’échelle macroscopique en différents modes de déformation (flexion, cisaillement, compression) réalisés sur des renforts tissés. La seconde partie consiste à chercher des modèles de comportement qui décrivent l’anélasticité en flexion et en cisaillement et à les implémenter dans un code éléments finis. Une validation de ces modèles obtenus est faite par comparaison simulation-expérimentation des essais d’identification de flexion et de cisaillement plan. Cette partie est réalisée sur le logiciel PlasFib développé par l’INSA de Lyon, un code éléments-finis explicite en grande transformation proposant une approche macroscopique semi-discrète des renforts fibreux. La troisième partie consiste à simuler différents cas de mises en forme inspirées de pièces industrielles pour mettre en évidence les zones du renfort qui subissent des chargements non monotones (en flexion et en cisaillement) lors d’une mise en forme. Cela vise également à étudier l’importance de l’utilisation des modèles irréversibles pour simuler ces mises en forme en comparant les résultats des simulations obtenus avec des modèles de comportement réversibles avec ceux obtenus pour des modèles irréversibles. / In the industrial context of shaping composite materials with fibrous reinforcements, the numerical simulation tool has become an integral part of process improvement. Today, numerical simulations of shaping fibrous reinforcements are mostly based on a macroscopic approach and continuous material models that have been assumed to be nonlinear elastic, thus reversible. However, under non-monotonous loading paths, the fibrous reinforcement shows significant irreversibility, particularly related to sliding between yarns and between fibers. First of all, we will try to characterize the importance of irreversibilities by cyclic tests (bending, in-plan shearing, compression) carried out on woven reinforcements. The second part consists in looking for behavior models that describe bending and in-plane shear irreversibilities to implement them in a finite element code. A validation of these behavior models is made by comparing simulation and experimental results of bending and in-plane shear identification tests. This part is realized on PlasFib, a software developed by INSA Lyon, based on finite element code in large deformation, proposing a macroscopic semi-discrete approach of fibrous reinforcements. The third part of the study will consist in simulating the shaping process of different industrial parts (or inspired by industrial parts). This will aim first at identifying loading cases apt to produce non-monotonous loading paths (in bending and in-plane shear) during the shaping process ; and second, at studying the importance of using irreversible models to simulate these shaping processes by comparing the results of simulations obtained with reversible behavior models with those obtained for irreversible behavior models.

First distinguished from other sedimentary successions in 1928, the Entrada Sandstone has been the subject of numerous studies. The western extent of the formation was initially described as laterally continuous "earthy" red beds, and categorized as sub- to supratidal marine-influenced sediments. Recent workers have reexamined the sedimentary facies hosted by the Entrada Sandstone, and findings suggest purely terrestrial depositional environments. Several outcrops of the upper Entrada hosted peculiar sedimentary features, including undulatory and convex-upward, parallel-laminated bedforms, reminiscent of hummocky cross-stratification- unexpected features in a terrestrial environment. The purpose of this study was to collect detailed outcrop measurements of these and other facies present in the upper Entrada Sandstone and to place them in context within a regional sedimentary system. Measured section data was analyzed and divided into sixteen primary facies based on textures, features, bedforms, grain size, and other characteristics. Surfaces were also noted and described. Each facies and surface was recognized to have developed under specific depositional or flow conditions, including eolian, paleosol, and fluvial subcritical, critical, supercritical, and waning flow. Primary facies were grouped into observed and interpreted facies associations. A depositional environment was then assigned to each facies association. These environments included sabkha, overbank splay/paleosol, distal terminal splay, and hyper-distal terminal splay. Ancient analogs were found in the Blomidon, Skagerrak, and Ormskirk Formations, which have been described as dryland fluvial systems that terminated onto saline mudflats (sabkhas). Modern analogs were found in the central Australian continent, in the form of fluvial terminal splays in ephemeral Lakes Eyre and Frome. The sedimentary system of the upper Entrada Sandstone of the San Rafael Swell is interpreted as an interfingering fluvial terminal splay and inland sabkha system. These are marked by a wide array of sedimentary structures representing stark extremes, from hyperarid to flash flooding conditions. During arid conditions, the only source of water was evaporative pumping of a high water table. During the rare occasions when surface water flowed through the system, flash flooding events produced the highest stage of supercritical flow described in geological literature. The succession of these facies reveals allogenic and autogenic processes active at the time of deposition, including episodes of tectonic uplift and fluvial avulsions.

Les CMC oxyde/oxyde sont de bons candidats pour des applications thermostructurales. Le comportement mécanique et les mécanismes d’endommagement de deux composites alumine/alumine à renforts tissés bi- et tridimensionnels ont été étudiés et comparés. La microstructure de ces CMC à matrice faible a été caractérisée à partir de porosimétrie et de CND, tel que thermographie IR, scan ultrasonore et tomographie X, ce qui a permis de mettre en évidence la présence de défauts initiaux. Le comportement mécanique en traction, ainsi qu’en compression dansle cas du CMC à renfort bidimensionnel, dans la direction des fibres ainsi que dans la direction ±45°, aété étudié à température ambiante. Afin d’exploiter pleinement ces essais, nous avons eu recours à plusieurs méthodes d’extensométrie et de suivi d’endommagement, telles que la thermographie IR et l’émission acoustique. Les propriétés mécaniques à rupture ainsi que le module de Young du CMC à renfort bidimensionnel développé à l’Onera se sont avérées supérieures à celles disponibles dans la littérature. Les mécanismes d’endommagement des matériaux ont été déterminés à partir d’observations post mortem au MEB et d’essais in situ dans un MEB, ce qui a permis d’évaluer la nocivité des défauts initiaux. Enfin, l’étude du comportement mécanique de ces composites a permisde proposer un modèle d’endommagement tridimensionnel qui permettra de poursuivre le développement de ces matériaux grâce à du calcul de structure. A l’issue de cette thèse, des pistes d’amélioration des procédés d’élaboration et de choix d’instrumentation à utiliser pour les futures études, notamment en ce qui concerne le suivi d’endommagement, ont également été proposées. / Oxide/oxide CMCs are good candidates for thermostructural applications. Themechanical behaviour and damage mechanisms of two alumina/alumina composites with two andthree dimensional woven reinforcements were studied and compared. The microstructure of theseweak matrix CMCs was characterized by porosimetry and NDT methods, such as IR thermography,ultrasound scanning and X-ray tomography, which highlighted initial defects. The mechanicalbehaviour was studied through tensile tests, as well as compression tests in the case of the twodimensionalreinforced CMC. These tests were conducted at room temperature, in the fibres directionsand in the ±45° direction. In order to fully exploit these tests, several extensometry and damagemonitoring methods, such as IR thermography and acoustic emission, were used. Young’s moduli andmaximum stresses and strains of the two-dimensional reinforced CMC developed at Onera appearedto be higher than those available in the literature. The damage mechanisms of the materials weredetermined by post mortem SEM observations and in situ testing in a SEM, which made it possible toassess the nocivity of initial defects. Studying the mechanical behaviour of these composites finallyenabled the development of a three-dimensional damage model that will facilitate the furtherdevelopment of such materials, through finite element analysis. Finally, some improvements regardingthe manufacturing processes and the instrumentation for damage monitoring were suggested forfuture studies.

Cette thèse contribue à interroger le renouvellement des rôles et statuts associés aux grands axes de circulation en milieu urbain et ce, au double prisme des théories urbanistiques qui ont pu les prendre pour objet, et des démarches de projets participant de leurs transformations effectives dans un contexte prônant le « refaire la ville sur la ville ». Chacun de ces angles d’approche a été plus particulièrement abordé dans une des deux parties constitutives de cette recherche. La première partie est ainsi centrée sur une analyse interprétative des places et valeurs fluctuantes accordées aux différentes typologies de rues dans le champ de l’urbanisme. Celle-ci a permis de mettre l’accent sur certains des ressorts ayant contribué à faire de ces typologies spécifiques de voies, des « angles morts » des principaux modèles théoriques d’organisation et de hiérarchisation du réseau viaire. Leur reconsidération amène dès lors à plus largement s’interroger sur l’étendue des potentialités programmatiques et projectuelles induites par ces évolutions de même que sur les formes potentiellement prises par un tel réinvestissement. Celles-ci ont été plus particulièrement traitées dans le cadre de la seconde partie, fondée sur une investigation plus « empirique » de cet enjeu, et articulée autour d’une démarche de « mise en regard » des projets d’High Street 2012 à Londres et de la rue Garibaldi à Lyon. La grille de lecture mobilisée pour leur analyse a permis de faire émerger le constat d’une grande diversité des objectifs et des formes données aux projets actuellement développés sur ces axes, en même temps qu’un renouvellement des ambitions, plus plurielles, qui leur sont associées. / This thesis contributes to question the renewal of the roles and status associated with the mixed-used arterial corridors in urban area and this, trough both the filter of urban planning theories relative to them as well as the project approaches participating in their effective transformation in a context claiming to “built cities on top of cities”. Each of those perspectives have been particularly explored one of the two parts of this research. The first part is thus centered on an interpretative analysis of the places and fluctuating values corresponding to the different street typologies found in urban planning and urban design theories. This bring to light few of the characteristics that participated to bring some specific street typologies in the blind spot of the principal theoretical models of organization and hierarchisation of the street network. Their reconsideration leads then to a larger inquiry about the extend of the potential programs and projects induced by those evolutions and later to the potential forms of such reinvestment. Those latest have been particularly considered within the second part, based on a more “empirical” investigation of those challenges and articulated around the comparison of the London High Street 2012 and the Lyon Garibaldi Street projects. The analytical grid employed helped to reveal a large diversity of the objectives and forms of the various projects developed on those urban axes and on the same time a renewal of the ambitions associated with them, more plurals and composites.

Optical packet switching (OPS) is one of the more promising solutions for meeting the diverse needs of broadband networking applications of the future. By virtue of its small data traffic granularity as well as its nanoseconds switching speed, OPS can be used to provide connection-oriented or connectionless services for different groups of users with very different networking requirements. The optical buffer and the switch fabric are two of the most important components in an OPS router. In this research, novel designs for the optical buffer and switch fabric are proposed and experimentally demonstrated. In particular, an optical buffer that is based on a folded-path delay-line tree architecture will be discussed. This buffer is the most compact non-recirculating optical delay line buffer to date, and it uses an array of high-speed ON-OFF optical reflectors to dynamically reconfigure its delay within several nanoseconds. A major part of this research is devoted to the design and performance optimization of these high-speed reflectors. Simulations and measurements are used to compare different reflector designs as well as to determine their optimal operating conditions. Another important component in the OPS router is the switch fabric, and it is used to perform space switching for the optical packets. Optical switch fabrics are used to overcome the limitations imposed by conventional electronic switch fabrics: high power consumption and dependency on the modulation format and bit-rate of the signals. Currently, only those fabrics that are based on the broadcast-and-select architecture can provide truly non-blocking multicast services to all input ports. However, a major drawback of these fabrics is that they are implemented using a large number of optical gates based on semiconductor optical amplifiers (SOA). This results in large component count and high energy consumption. In this research, a new multicast-capable switch fabric which does not require any SOA gates is proposed. This fabric relies on a passive all-optical gate that is based on the Four-wave mixing (FWM) wavelength conversion process in a highly-nonlinear fiber. By using this new switch architecture, a significant reduction in component count can be expected.

Dimensionierung und Konstruktion von Bewehrungstextilien für die Anwendung in Textilbeton werden in Abhängigkeit von der resultierenden Last im Bauteil durchgeführt. Um aus der Vielzahl möglicher Varianten von Bewehrungsstrukturen die passenden auszuwählen, wird ein reduziertes Beschreibungsschema zur Auswahl herangezogen. Als Anwendungsbeispiel wird eine komplexe Bewehrungsstruktur beschrieben, die für dünnwandige, selbsttragende Sandwichelemente genutzt wird. Die Sandwichelemente werden als Wandund Dachkonstruktion für ein 20 m² großes modulares Gebäude eingesetzt. Die Bewehrungsstrategie für die Elemente sowie die Herstellungstechnik und Prüfverfahren für die Bewehrung werden beschrieben. Zur Langzeitüberwachung der Sandwichelemente wird ein Monitoring-System verwendet.