Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-27T19:30:38Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Anthoula Fyskatoris.pdf: 81083710 bytes, checksum: b4e5d552f36a58b7de9cdc28fa9182ff (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-08-27 / Considering the lack of historiographical studies on the fashion retail, the more competitive sector with a growing importance in the Brazilian economy, and also recognizing the significant progress in the purchasing power of low-income classes once in recent years, the increasing consumption potential of emerging classes has sustained the economic expansion in Brazil -, this study aims to demonstrate that historically the retail sector has not been immune to the potential consumption of the low-income population. Either by the expansion of commercial areas, either by changing the retailing format, either by offering new and more affordable products, they tried to meet this growing demand. Thanks to the major fashion retailers, the street commercial points, the planned commercial centers such as malls, our research intended to reflect on the more democratic fashion offers, particularly products for women's clothing. This way, the retailing policies and strategies that approach the broader layers of the population have been revealed. Thus, the second half of the twentieth century was highlighted in the research. Also, by examining the retailing formats, sales techniques, products marketed, points of sale, and advertising campaigns, our work intended to demonstrate that the retail sector envisioned the social inequality inherent in the development of the country and found ways to meet the successive demands of low-income consumers. In this sense, there are questions intrinsic to this study: how the low-income population has access to fashion products? Has the insertion of the low-income consumption been made by means of sales policies? Or by means of financing options? How do prices become more affordable? Which changes have been promoted in products and retail outlets? Is there a popular aesthetic? What was the role of advertising in encouraging the consumption of fashion? It is possible to perceive that the democratization of fashion in Sao Paulo reflects the peculiarities of social and economic life of its in habitants / Tendo em vista a carência de estudos historiográficos sobre o Varejo de Moda, setor dos mais competitivos e de importância crescente na economia brasileira e reconhecendo os expressivos avanços no poder aquisitivo das classes de menor renda nos últimos anos, o crescente potencial de consumo das classes emergentes tem sustentado a expansão econômica no Brasil , este estudo tem por objetivo evidenciar que historicamente o varejo não ficou imune ao potencial de consumo da população de baixa renda e seja pela ampliação das áreas comerciais, seja pela alteração dos formatos varejistas, seja pela oferta de novos produtos com preços mais acessíveis, procurou atender a essa crescente demanda. Por meio dos grandes varejistas de moda, dos polos comerciais de ruas e dos centros comerciais planejados, como os shopping centers, pretende refletir sobre a oferta mais democrática da moda, particularmente os produtos de vestuário feminino, revelando as políticas e estratégias varejistas que vão ao encontro de camadas mais amplas da população. Assim, a segunda metade do século XX mereceu destaque na pesquisa. Igualmente, examinando os formatos varejistas, as técnicas de vendas, os produtos comercializados, os pontos de venda, as campanhas publicitárias propõe desvelar que o varejo visualizou a desigualdade social inerente ao desenvolvimento do País e encontrou meios de atender à sucessiva demanda dos consumidores de baixa renda. Nesse sentido, são indagações intrínsecas a este estudo: Como a população de baixo poder aquisitivo teve acesso aos produtos de moda? A inserção do consumo de baixa renda deu-se por meio de políticas de vendas? De opções de financiamento? De que forma os preços se tornaram mais acessíveis? Que alterações foram promovidas nos produtos e nos pontos de venda? Há uma estética popular? Qual a participação da publicidade no incentivo ao consumo da moda? É possível perceber que a democratização da moda em São Paulo traduz as singularidades da vida econômica e social dos paulistanos

The purpose with the thesis is to identify, analyze and present the problems micro companies in the Swedish fashion and sport industry are facing when using social media as a communication tool in their marketing activities. Also relevant digital communication channels have been investigated and presented. Two case studies have been made with two Swedish micro companies in order to fulfill our purpose and answer our two research questions. The result from the interviews showed that micro companies, overall in the industry, could benefit from using social media as a communication channel, but they struggle to know how they should use it. We answer our research question through creating and presenting our own constructed model that companies should use in their business for planning their social media strategy and overcome the found problems. The thesis is a qualitative research with an abducted approach. We did an active research with a case study on the two companies Kask of Sweden and Gococo. Through deep interviews, we got much information about how they work today and what problems they face when using social media. We have worked with four themes during the entire process; present, relationship, problems and future, to facilitate for the reader and for us. The study has high reability for the investigated companies, and we also argue that it could be of interest for other fashion and sport micro companies at the Swedish market. An theoretical framework was conducted through researching the specific area and finding relevant theory and published material concerning marketing and communicaton, as well as digital marketing theory and publications about social media. The chosen material is presented in the theory chapter where an own constructed model is presented as a guideline for the reader. It will help the reader to find the theories and their elations to each other. We believe it to be a good way of ease the understanding and the relevance of the chosen theories. The research shows that micro companies in the Swedish fashion sport industry faces different problems using social media as a communication platform for their company. Thus micro companies often have a very limited amount of resources and neither have the money, the knowledge or the time to manage a large marketing and communication social media can be beneficial if used properly. Though it comes with a few struggles. The main problems concerned around knowing who their real customer is, how to handle the relationship and create stronger connections with customers, difficulties in knowing which channels to use and how to handle them properly. They also found problems in knowing what how to communicate the right image and get the desired result of the published materials. Lastly the companies sometimes lacked a clear strategy in managing their social media platforms and raised questions about the language use, time consumption and who should run the activates. With our ”Four step-from likes to commitment” model we want to put attention to the most relevant steps a company needs to be aware of before starting and during working with social media, as well as be a strategy to handle and overcome the problems the previously struggled with. / Program: Textilt management, fashion management

This study investigates the supply, distribution and use of haberdashery wares in England in the late sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, with especial reference to the paired counties of Cumbria and Lancashire, Warwickshire and Leicestershire, Hampshire and West Sussex. A brief comparison is also made with London. Through examination of documentary evidence and extant examples, it aims to set the provision and use of haberdashery for dress into the context of the Early Modern period, and challenges widely held assumptions concerning the availability of wares through the country. The purpose of the argument is firstly to demonstrate that haberdashery, being both a necessity and a luxury, was an important, and historically traceable, part of traded goods in the early modern period, and secondly, with particular reference to the response of retailers to changing needs and demands, to show that the widescale availability of haberdashery for use in dress made it significant in the expression of personal identity and appearance for individuals of all social strata, while its manufacture and distribution provided employment for considerable numbers of people.

In today's competitive business, information technology (IT) is undoubtedly an irreplaceable part of the business. Introducing different types of IT within companies is almost always proceed in a project form. Today, there are well-developed strategies, models and tools for a project manager to use for IT projects, but in spite of that, previous research points to a relatively high error rate. But what do you really mean by a successful and failed IT project? In fact, specific IT projects are often limited to being assessed and followed up only against three parameters: time, budget and results, but fail to follow up on the expected business benefit that may affect the impact targets (impact targets are the objectives that specify the effect of the project expected to give). If the follow-up is not implemented, an uncertainty is created and the expected effects that IT projects will generate are lost.   Another factor in the problem of previous research in IT projects has been found in the perspective of the user. Those who run and manage IT projects must take into account the user's real IT system challenges to optimize the usage. Looking at the specific ease of use of system implementation, the existing literature indicates that it is the biggest challenge in IT projects. Users can resist using the system, which can cause more problems than that the IT project's performance goals are not achieved. Many reasons and factors for failed IT projects are not yet identified.   The purpose of the study is to identify success factors and obstacles to the effective deployment and use of a new product management system within Fashion Retail. The study has been conducted as a qualitative study where a Fashion Retail Company was studied. The Company is considered relevant to the study as they currently carry out one of the largest IT investments in recent years. The Company will introduce a new product management system for two different concepts. The study results in three concrete success factors as well as an identified area where obstacles arise.   Three success factors: • The project management strategy Practical Project Management (PPS) Parallel with a change-friendly climate, creates an optimistic view of the introduction of the Product Management System, as well as releasing time to the project manager to eliminate any obstacles along the way. • Having users of the Product Management System in most phases through IT projects enhances and optimizes user-friendliness. • Let the supplier be seen and treated as a participant in the projects, it can free up time and improving communication between customer and supplier.  Area of Obstacles: An important but out-priority activity in IT projects (mostly due to lack of time) is to follow up and learn between projects as project managers. Here you lose important information and knowledge. How to identify success if follow-up does not happen? In an industry like Fashion Retail, characterized by major seasonal variations, high availability and external factors such as environmental and social responsibility, you depend on IT to share the information. If follow-up is more frequent and carefully, IT projects can be streamlined on time, but also economically with routines and the right actors.

Background: A sustainable economy becomes more and more important for most parts of the society. Especially the fashion industry is being criticized for wasting resources and being non-sustainable. Therefore, some textile producers started to implement programs that are aiming on a reuse of garments. Aims of research: The purpose of this research is to discover how customers can be motivated to return unwanted garments, also considering possible hindering factors. To gather this information it is necessary to build a theoretical framework with customer-based theories. The thesis explored how a second hand multi-brand retailer can take active action in encouraging customers to return unwanted textiles. Method: This research was conducted as an inductive qualitative research. The data was gathered through semi-structured interviews with several second hand retailers. The analysis was carried out following the Giogia method. Results: The thesis revealed that the garment disposal behavior is affected by various influences. Influences on the disposal behavior of garment consumers are personal values and believes. The dispose of unwanted garments is often influenced by an ease of handling and the same behavior is followed over the years simply because individuals are used to a certain garment disposal behavior. The largest hindering factors why customers do not return garments to retailers are caused by a lack of information as well as insufficient transparency. This behavior can be affected by second hand retailers by providing improved communication and a motivation to return garments by offering benefits for the customer. The size of the company does not play a major role.

Background – Circular economy (CE) is gaining more and more importance in research, based on the great desire to change the linear fashion economy to a circular. A Product Service System (PSS) can contribute to the achievement of CE, as PSSs, such as take-back or repair services, bring back the garments to the fashion retail company into the CE. Regarding, closed-loop goals have been created from which the third goal needs to be recently achieved by the fashion industry. Closed-Loop Goal 3 deals with the cascading flow of garments, which sends a garment into multiple usage loops. To accomplish the cascading garment flow, this method connects several PSSs to close the loop, and fewer garments end in landfill. To achieve that, the involvement of customers and business partners is essential as they are purchasing and repatriating garments and materials into the cascading loops. Purpose – The research purpose is to offer new knowledge regarding how fashion retailers can implement cascading loop systems in the textile Closed-Loop Supply Chain (CLSC) and narrow the research gap of cascading loop creations. The study aims to investigate how to involve customers and business partners in PSSs through the digitalisation of cascading garment flow. By doing so, the cascading garment flow intends to achieve improved sustainable performance by allowing used garments to enter a cascading garment flow system.  Methodology – This thesis is a single case study that has been conducted through an abductive approach. The research is built on different customer and business partner involvement theories and the triple bottom line theory. Semi-structured interviews have been conducted as primary data collection. Additionally, the data has been supplemented by secondary data in the form of company documents such as sustainability reports. Afterwards, the data has been analysed qualitatively by thematic analysis and by the SDG assessment tool.  Findings – The results have shown that a mixture of smart service tools, stakeholder and customer communication can achieve customers and business partners' involvement in creating a cascading garment flow. Additionally, the findings offer an insight into the potential contribution of the SDG goal achievement, which is showing that the digitalised PSSs involving customers and business partners in the cascading flow can potentially obtain sustainable performance.  Practical implications & Research limitations – The cascading garment flow as the Closed Loop Goal 3 in CE is still a relatively unexplored area. However, the implementation is essential for sustainable performance and development. Therefore, it is suggested that other issues within the cascading garment flow should be investigated. Additionally, this research was mainly districted by the smaller selection of literature of former research, which did not offer much support.

A new generation of conscious consumers have placed pressure on fashion retail businesses to implement sustainability into their respective business operations. Conscious consumerism is a driving force behind sustainable consumption as these consumers play a strong role when influencing business practices. Although many retailers have adapted responsible procedures by offering sustainable products to their consumers, there is a lack of research on identifying and understanding the conscious consumer holistically. The aim of the present research is to gain a better understanding of the conscious consumer in relation to the three pillars of sustainability (people, planet, profit). This study sets out to examine the Generation Z consumer market as they display traits of sustainable behaviour and also aims to unpack the main drivers of their sustainable purchase intentions within the South African fashion retail market. A self-administered online questionnaire was used to collect data from respondents between the ages of 18 and 24 years. From the self-administered questionnaires, 159 responses were completed and deemed usable. Data were analysed using Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS) version 24 and Analysis of Moment Structures (AMOS) version 24. Firstly, descriptive statistics was used to provide an overview of the sample. Secondly, Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) was used to examine the relationship between the variables. This study found that the Health and Labelling and Peer Pressure dimensions of the Consumers' Sustainability Consciousness construct has a positive influence on Sustainable Purchase Intentions. In conclusion, the findings of this study have several important implications for academia, fashion retailers and government. The contribution of this study aims to enhance the existing literature on conscious consumption by showcasing the most reliable dimensions of Consumers' Sustainability Consciousness and Sustainable Purchase Intentions. The study offers significant insights for fashion retailers and government as the impact of eating healthy, the role of product labels and peer pressure were found to have a positive influence on Gen Z's intentions to purchase sustainably. Ultimately, the insights from this body of work will generate both important implications and opportunities for further research.

The ongoing consumer transition from offline to online shopping in the fashion retail industry requires retailers to take action. Not only do consumers shop more online, they also go online for research of retail products. Forecasts tell that bringing the online experience to offline stores might bridge the gap between the two channels. The online experience provides high-end digital content, and puts a demand on the product information offline as this was found crucial for the customer experience. The marketing possibilities in-store was found to be an advantage to bricks-and-mortar retailers. Thus, this study aims to investigate how the customer experience can be enhanced in retail bricks-and-mortar stores through digital product information. A survey was conducted to identify user requirements in terms of product information. An augmented reality prototype was formed to satisfy the identified user requirements. The prototype was tested in two user studies that evaluated the content, visualization, interaction and satisfaction. The prototype was iterated between the two user studies. The most crucial parameters of fashion retail product information were established, together with implications for the visual representation and interaction. It was found that there were unfulfilled user needs with existing service options, which were satisfied with the use of an augmented reality prototype for product information retrieval. The use of AR for this purpose also proved to be able to contribute to an omnichannel solution for multi-channel retailers. The conclusion was thus that the customer in-store experience could be enhanced by the introduction of an augmented reality prototype for product information retrieval, taking into account the implications for content, visualization and interaction provided in this study. / Den pågående konsumentövergången från offline till online shopping i modedetaljhandeln kräver att detaljhandlare vidtar åtgärder. Förutom att konsumenterna handlar mer online, använder de också onlinebutiker allt mer för undersökning av produkter. Prognoser förtäljer att införandet av onlineupplevelsen till offline-butiker kan överbrygga klyftan mellan de två kanalerna. Onlineupplevelsen tillhandahåller högklassigt digitalt innehåll och ställer krav på produktinformationen offline, eftersom denna konstaterades vara en avgörande faktor för kundupplevelsen. Marknadsföringsmöjligheterna i fysiska butiker har visat sig vara en fördel för detaljhandlare som existerar i offlinekanalen. Således syftar denna studie till att undersöka hur kundupplevelsen kan förstärkas i fysiska detaljhandelsbutiker genom digital produktinformation. En enkätundersökning genomfördes för att identifiera användarnas krav när det gäller produktinformation. En augmented reality-prototyp formades i anspråk att tillfredsställa de identifierade användarkraven. Prototypen testades i två användarstudier, som utvärderade prototypens innehåll, visualisering, interaktion och tillfredsställelse. Prototypen itererades mellan de två användarstudierna. De mest kritiska parametrarna för produktinformation fastställdes, tillsammans med implikationer för visuell representation och interaktion. Det kunde konstateras att en AR-prototyp kunde tillfredsställa ännu omötta användarbehov för inhämtning av produktinformation. Användningen av AR för detta ändamål visade sig också ha möjligheten att bidra till en omnichannel-lösning för modehandlare som existerar i flera kanaler. Slutsatsen var således att kundupplevelsen i fysiska detaljhandelsbutiker kan förstärkas genom införandet av en augmented reality-prototyp för produktinformationsinhämtning, genom att ta hänsyn till de implikationer gällande innehåll, visualisering och interaktion tillhandahållna i denna studie.

[pt] O conhecimento ou reconhecimento da marca é conceituado de acordo com um modelo de memória associativa e ocorre quando o consumidor está familiarizado com a marca, tendo em mente um conjunto de associações favoráveis. O alinhamento das estratégias de branding garante que as premissas do posicionamento da marca sejam identificadas pelo cliente. A partir da revisão de um referencial teórico multidisciplinar e de pesquisa de campo com entrevistas semiestruturadas, pretendemos compreender o conhecimento organizacional a partir da gestão pelo design, buscando a integração de competências transdisciplinares, a fim de garantir o alinhamento das diretrizes de branding no varejo de moda omnicanal. Inicia-se, assim, um ensaio sobre a geração do conhecimento organizacional transdisciplinar, baseado nas diferentes práticas de design, incluindo a projeção e avaliação de seus impactos, e garantindo a transformação contínua desse conhecimento para a manutenção de uma política de branding. / [en] Brand knowledge (or recognition) is conceptualized according to an associative memory model and occurs when the consumer is familiar with the brand, holding a set of favorable associations in mind. The alignment of branding strategies ensures that the brand s positioning assumptions are identified by the customer. Building on a review of a multidisciplinary theoretical framework and field research using semi-structured interviews, we aim to understand organizational knowledge from a design management perspective, enabling the integration of transdisciplinary competencies to ensure alignment of branding guidelines in omnichannel fashion retail. Thus, an essay begins on the generation of transdisciplinary organizational knowledge based on different design practices, including the projection and evaluation of their impacts, and ensuring the continuous transformation of this knowledge for the maintenance of a branding policy.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-27T19:31:24Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Anthoula Fyskatoris.pdf: 12675240 bytes, checksum: 637a35caf864d1bba184f7e581bc7f0a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006-05-23 / During the 1st half of the 20th century São Paulo consolidated itself as an urban center in which an important textile industry grew and caused important social transformations - not only in the retail market but algo in women manners and fashion. Some characteristics of the fashion retail and the social clothing universe in São Paulo during this period are the focus of this study. Through investigations it was possible to realize how this subject is full of aspects that sometimes do not converge, such as: fashion - more specifically retail fashion, trade features - including urban life, the press, the perception of elegance, life style, comfort or poverty. Besides that, the commercial establishments and retail dealers had an important status on the transformation of São Paulo into a metropolis, modulating the consumption of the growing population. These business men algo contributed to spread the irriage of a modern city (even more than it truly was). At that time, in the capital of São Paulo, the store window displays showed fashionable items desired by the elite. Somehow this provoked a sensation of closeness or a great distance among poor consumers regarding the foreign references from Paris, London and New York. Simultaneously, the analysis of fashion retail granted the knowledge of socio- economic changes in the city during the first decades of the last century, and further, it evidenced the lower class consumer's habits in clothing commerce. Due to the lack of official documents, this study is grounded on the dialogue among the press media, especially, the advertisement released in the magazine A Cigarra and the newspapers O Diário de São Paulo, Folha da Noite and Estado de S. Paulo. Other bibliographic references are books, theses, publications and documents available on the Internet. Additional documentation was also provided by Casas Pernambucanas. This abstraction aims to comprehend the fashion democratization and the beginning of consumption in this market throughout 1910 and 1940. The sources revealed that the fashion retail, through demand and supply of products (from stores and outdoors) that reflected the modernity - usually European, American or even similar - corroborated to widen the esthetical and cultural values. The fashion retailers, using the publicity of their stores and products as additional resource made possible to "sell" the images and foreigner manners, recognized by the residents of São Paulo as a symbol of distinction and social identification / Durante a primeira metade do século XX, São Paulo consolidou-se como centro urbano no qual se expandiu uma significativa indústria têxtil provocando transformações sociais relevantes não só para o varejo, como também para o comportamento feminino e a moda. Algumas características do varejo de moda e do universo social das vestimentas dos paulistanos neste período formam o eixo central desta pesquisa. Ao longo das investigações realizadas, foi possível perceber o quanto este campo temático é repleto de histórias que nem sempre são convergentes: história da moda e, em particular, do varejo, mas, também, história do comércio, da vida urbana, da imprensa escrita e das noções de elegância, bem viver, conforto ou pobreza. Além disso, a função dos estabelecimentos comerciais e de seus comerciantes ocupou um lugar importante na história da transformação de São Paulo em metrópole e na modificação dos padrões de consumo da crescente população paulistana, contribuindo, ainda, para que estes percebessem a cidade como mais moderna do que em seus tempos passados (e até mais moderna do que realmente era). Nesse momento, na capital paulista, as vitrinas exibiam os objetos de desejos das elites, provocando, em certa medida, uma sensação de proximidade ou de terrível distância entre os consumidores mais pobres e as referências vindas de capitais estrangeiras como Paris, Londres e Nova York. Ao mesmo tempo, a análise do varejo de moda possibilitou o conhecimento de algumas mutações socioeconômicas da cidade de São Paulo nas primeiras décadas do século passado, além de fornecer indícios sobre 0$ hábitos dos consumidores de baixa renda no comércio de roupas. Diante da escassez de documentos oficiais significativos, este estudo tem como fio condutor o diálogo entre a imprensa, em especial, a publicidade veiculada pela revista A Cigarra e pelos jornais - O Diário de São Paulo, Folha da Noite e Estado de S. Paulo - e as demais referências bibliográficas - livros, teses, periódicos e documentos disponibilizados na Internet - além da documentação fornecida pelas Casas Pernambucanas, objetivando a compreensão da democratização da moda e a inserção do consumo de baixa renda entre os anos 1910 e 1940. As fontes pesquisadas revelaram que o varejo de moda, através da demanda e da oferta nas lojas (e fora das lojas) de produtos que traduziam a modernidade - bens de origem européia ou americana, ou à semelhança de -, corroborou para a propagação de valores estéticos e culturais, em que os varejistas de moda, tendo como recurso adicional a publicidade de seus estabelecimentos e produtos, colaboraram para a "venda" de imagens e estrangeirismos, reconhecidos pela população paulistana como símbolos de distinção e identificação social