Background: Several fast fashion brands have been criticised regarding their business practices, with poor working conditions in developing countries and use of toxic chemicals. Subsequently, many consumers have turned to anti-consumption practices such as brand avoidance to distance themselves from various fast fashion brands. Five elements have emerged among brand avoidance associated with experiential avoidance, identity avoidance, moral avoidance, deficit-value avoidance, or advertising related avoidance which underpin this behaviour.  Purpose: The aim of this study is to compare brand avoidance behaviours toward fast fashion brands among Generations X, Y, and Z. This research attempts to identify the specific reasons why different generations avoid fast fashion brands, as well as the factors that contribute to this behaviour. The purpose is to compare the three generations to know which factors influence each generation the most. It is plausible that the factors vary significantly between cohorts since they have grown up in different environments. Consequently, generational distinction is regarded as an essential variable.  Method: Comprehending the purpose of this research and examining causal relationships, this thesis used a quantitative research design. The empirical data was gathered through an online survey, considering the large sample size and current COVID-19 pandemic. Due to these circumstances, the most insightful information could be obtained about participants' behaviour regarding fast fashion brands using an online survey. The data was analysed and interpreted utilising a deductive approach.  Conclusion: The results show that the generations differ in their brand avoidance behaviours for experiential avoidance, moral avoidance, and advertising avoidance towards fast fashion brands. These differences were observed where the consumers perceive the performance to be poor, the brand is inconvenient, and when the advertising is perceived to be unpleasant. Regarding moral avoidance, the data was not sufficient to distinguish which cohorts differ, but only that there was a significant difference somewhere.

Denna studie har som syfte att undersöka hur konsumenter upplever klädföretaget H&M:s hållbarhetsarbete och vilka attityder som konsumenterna har gentemot företaget. Detta för att kunna skapa en ökad förståelse och kunskap kring hur hållbarhetsarbete kan påverka konsumentattityder. Studien har genomförts med hjälp av en enkätundersökning där svenska konsumenter har fått besvara frågor rörande ämnet. Studien presenterar resultatet med hjälp av olika diagram för att ge en visuell bild över detta. Insamlad data har sedan tolkats och använts för att analysera och diskutera i jämförelse med tidigare forskning på området. Det har visat sig att konsumenter har en negativ syn på H&M:s hållbarhetsarbete där flera konsumenter upplever att de inte arbetar tillräckligt med detta. Eftersom H&M är verksamt inom fast fashion branschen är hållbarhetsarbetet något som blir motsägelsefullt och många upplever på grund av detta företagets strategier som greenwashing. Transparens har visat sig vara en nyckel för att kunna öka intresset gällande produkter, då fler konsumenter har en positiv inställning till att handla plagg om de vet dess miljöpåverkan. Gällande konsumenters attityder gentemot verksamheten har det visat sig att många har dåligt samvete när de handlar kläder hos H&M då flera är medvetna om den fast fashion som H&M bedriver. Många har heller inte hållbarhet i åtanke då de handlar på H&M. Detta har visat på att konsumenters attityder inte har en särskilt stor påverkan på det hållbarhetsarbete som H&M gör. / This study aims to investigate how consumers experience the clothing company H&M's sustainability work and what attitudes consumers have towards the company. This is to be able to create an increased understanding and knowledge of how sustainability work can affect consumer attitudes. The study has been conducted with the help of a survey where Swedish consumers have answered questions regarding the subject. The study presents the results using various diagrams to give a visual picture of this. The collected data has then been interpreted and used to analyze and discuss in comparison with previous research in the field. It has been shown that consumers have a negative view of H&M's sustainability work, where several consumers feel that they do not work enough with this. Since H&M is active in the fast fashion industry, sustainability work is something that becomes contradictory and many therefore perceive the company's strategies as greenwashing. Transparency has proven to be a key to increasing interest in products, as more consumers have a positive attitude towards buying garments if they know its environmental impact. Regarding consumers' attitudes towards the business, it has been shown that many have a bad conscience when they buy clothes at H&M as many are aware of the fast fashion that H&M conducts. Many also do not have sustainability in mind when they shop at H&M. This has shown that consumer attitudes do not have a particularly large impact on the sustainability work that H&M does.

Complaints, due to broken products, are today mostly handled in two ways in the fast fashion industry. These two ways are replacement of goods or a refund. This paper investigates whether repair of the product would be an acceptable option for the consumer. This is investigated by analyzing consumer attitudes to garment repair instead of traditional complaint alternatives. Repair of the product includes repair in store, the consumers repairing the garment themselves for a compensation or the company offering a sewing kit to the consumer to repair the garment themself. Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard and Hoggs (2013) ABC-model is applied to analyze consumer attitudes. The purpose is to investigate female consumers attitudes towards complaint alternatives in physical stores, as well as their attitudes to less occured options in the fast fashion industry. The empirical data consists of focus groups. In order to achieve the purpose of this paper, the empirical data has been analyzed with previous research and the theoretical model. The theory and the previous research addresses areas such as complaint, sustainability, behavior and attitudes. The study's conclusion is that shop repair is an option if the repair is done without waiting and a warranty of the garment is given. That the consumers themself should repair the garment for a compensation is only an option if the consumer has the knowledge and competence to repair. However, there is skepticism to this option because consumers perceive it as the company's responsibility to remedy. The alternative offering a sewing kit is not an acceptable option for the consumers. It will be a process to apply new complaint alternatives because the customer needs time to accept these alternatives. The consumer's responsibility lies in the choice making. In order for consumers to make alternative choices in complaint situations companies should offer the alternatives as well as encourage and inspire consumers to make the right choice for the environment. / I dagsläget hanteras reklamationer främst på två sätt i fast fashion-branschen, byte av vara eller återbetalning. Uppsatsen undersöker därför om lagning av produkten skulle vara ett acceptabelt alternativ för fast fashion-konsumenten. Detta undersöks genom att analysera konsumenters attityd till lagning av plagg istället för de traditionella reklamationsalternativen. Lagning av plagg innefattar lagning i butik, konsumenten får laga plagget själva mot ersättning eller erbjudande om sömnadskit för att laga varan själva. För att analysera konsumenters attityder tillämpas Solomon et als. (2013) ABC-modell. Uppsatsens syfte är att undersöka kvinnliga konsumenters attityder till reklamationer i fysisk butik, samt deras attityder till mindre förekommande reklamtionsalternativ inom fast fashion-branschen. Empirin består av resultatet från fokusgrupper. För att uppnå uppsatsens syfte har empirin analyserats med tidigare forskning och teori. Teorin och den tidigare forskningen behandlar områden som reklamation, hållbarhet, beteende och attityder. Studiens slutsatser är att lagning i butik är ett alternativ om reparationen sker utan väntetid och en garanti på plagget utlovas. Att konsumenten själv ska laga plagget mot en ersättning är endast ett alternativ om konsumenten innehar kunskap och kompetens att laga felet. Det finns dock en skepticism mot detta alternativ då konsumenterna uppfattar det som företagets ansvar att åtgärda felet. Alternativet erbjudande av sömnadskit är inget acceptabelt alternativ för konsumeterna. Det kommer att vara en process att tillämpa andra alternativ vid reklamation då konsumenten behöver tid att acceptera de mer hållbara alternativen. För att konsumenterna ska kunna göra alternativa val vid reklamation bör företagen erbjuda detta samt uppmana och inspirera konsumenterna att göra de hållbarhetsmässigt rätta valen.

Studien syftar till att klargöra och undersöka attribut som kan ha relevant betydelse för den unga kundens kvalitetsupplevelse av den personliga servicen i fast fashion-butiker. Denna studie baseras på kvantitativ metod med en deduktiv ansats. Hypoteser har formats som en metod att testa det teoretiska ramverket. Hypoteserna testas genom en webbenkät, som besvaras av 210 respondenter. Studien visar att det inte finns en korrelation mellan det initiala mötet med personalen och den upplevda servicekvaliten för den unga kunden i fast fashion-butiker. Tjänstvillighet och kunskap har dock båda signifikant korrelation med den upplevda servicekvaliteten för den unga kunden i fast fashion-butiker.

O dinamismo inerente a moda expõe as cadeias de suprimentos a um desafio constante: gerenciar a relação com múltiplos agentes envolvidos em um longo lead time produtivo, enquanto atendem aos anseios por novidades frequentes no ponto de venda. A Cadeia Produtiva Têxtil e de Confecção (CPTC) se antecipa, em até dois anos, nas apostas de tendências e direciona às suas confecções um fluxo empurrado de produtos originais em formas, matérias, cores e estampas. Contudo, é no varejo que o êxito, ou insucesso, de uma coleção fica nítido e tem seus maiores impactos de incerteza. Em sentido contrário, o fast fashion ganha notoriedade por resolver esta problemática, encurtando ciclos produtivos e postergando acabamentos de produção, em uma cadeia de suprimentos que atende às solicitações do varejo, com trocas constantes de informação. Este modelo de negócios se torna, na revisão bibliográfica, um bom exemplo de aplicação das práticas de Gestão da Cadeia de Suprimentos (GCS) na moda, com exemplos recorrentes de marcas do Reino Unido, Suécia, Estados Unidos, Itália e Espanha. Surge, então, o interesse em verificar como interagem os agentes das CPTC do Brasil, comparando coleções programadas e de moda rápida, e se conseguem aplicar as diretrizes da GCS. Um estudo de casos múltiplos em 4 empresas, sendo 2 em modelo tradicional e 2 fast fashion, leva a resultados que confirmam a literatura nas práticas varejistas, enquanto diferem, especialmente nos métodos produtivos, levando a indagações sobre a adaptação dos parâmetros internacionais ao cenário local / The inherent dynamism of fashion exposes supply chains to a constant challenge: managing the relationship with multiple agents involved in a long productive lead time, while meeting the yearnings for frequent novelties at the point of sale. The Textile and Apparel Production Chain (TAPC) anticipates trends, within two years, and directs to their factories a flow of original products into shapes, materials, colors and prints. However, it is in retail that the success, or failure, of a fashion collection becomes clear and has its greatest impacts of uncertainty. On the other hand, fast fashion is notorious for solving this problem, shortening production cycles and postponing production finishes, in a supply chain that responds to retail requests, with constant information exchanges. This business model becomes, in the bibliographic review, a good example of applying the practices of Supply Chain Management (SCM) in fashion, with recurring examples of brands from the United Kingdom, Sweden, the United States, Italy and Spain. Arises interest in checking how the TAPC agents of Brazil interact, comparing traditional and fast-fashion collections, and whether they are able to apply the guidelines of the SCM. A multiple case study in 4 companies, 2 in a traditional model and 2 fast fashion, leads to results that confirm the literature in retail practices, while differing, especially in productive methods, leading to inquiries about the adaptation of international parameters to the local scenario

Syfte: Syftet med studien är att identifiera en institutionaliserad diskurs kring kommunikation av hållbarhet inom klädbranschen. Utgångspunkten för identifiering av en sådan diskurs är företagens tillämpning av redovisningsmodellen triple bottom line. Vidare förklaras denna diskurs med hjälp av legitimitets- och intressentteorin. Resultatet av studien syftar till att bidra till kunskapsbildningen kring dessa teorier.Metod: En kvalitativ diskursanalys har genomförts på fyra utvalda företags hållbarhetsredovisningar inom klädbranschen. Företagen representerar två olika profiler, fast fashion samt high-end. Studien är inspirerad av innehållsanalys då datamaterialet har kategoriserats. Kategorierna har dock fått växa fram under analysens gång för att på så vis identifiera diskursen kring kommunikation av hållbarhet.Resultat: Studien tyder på att hållbarhetsredovisning har institutionaliserats och att det finns en relativt tydlig diskurs kring kommunikation av hållbarhet inom den studerade branschen. Den tydligaste variationen som framkommit är en skillnad mellan företagens profiler, nämligen att företagen inom high-end trycker mer på kvalitet på kläderna än vad företagen inom fast fashion gör.Originalitet/värde: Tidigare studier har funnit att det finns stora skillnader i hur corporate social responsibility rapporteras mellan olika branscher. Denna studie undersöker hur företag inom samma bransch, men med olika profilering, rapporterar om hållbarhet. Studien har bidragit till att öka förståelsen för varför företag inom klädbranschen väljer att lyfta viss information i sina hållbarhetsredovisningar. / Purpose: This paper seeks to identify an institutionalised discourse about communication of sustainability in the clothing industry. The base for identification of this discourse is how a company applies the triple bottom line model. Further, this discourse is explained with legitimacy- and stakeholder theory. The result of the study aims to contribute to increase knowledge about these theories.Methodology: A qualitative discourse analyses has been employed on the sustainability reports of four fashion companies. The companies represents two profiles, fast fashion and high-end. The study is partly conducted by applying content analysis on a data driven basis. Categories have emerged during the course of the analysing work.Findings: The result suggests that the sustainability reporting has been institutionalised and that there exist a relatively clear discourse about communication of sustainability within the studied industry. The most obvious variation that has emerged is a variety between the companies' profiles, the high-end companies communicate quality of the clothes to a greater extent compared to the fast fashion companies.Originality/value: Previous studies have shown that there are big differences in how corporate social responsibility is reported among industries. This study examines how companies in the same industry, with various corporate profiles, report on sustainability. The study has helped to increase the understanding of why a company in the clothing industry chooses to highlight certain information in their sustainability report.This thesis is written in Swedish.

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O dinamismo inerente a moda expõe as cadeias de suprimentos a um desafio constante: gerenciar a relação com múltiplos agentes envolvidos em um longo lead time produtivo, enquanto atendem aos anseios por novidades frequentes no ponto de venda. A Cadeia Produtiva Têxtil e de Confecção (CPTC) se antecipa, em até dois anos, nas apostas de tendências e direciona às suas confecções um fluxo empurrado de produtos originais em formas, matérias, cores e estampas. Contudo, é no varejo que o êxito, ou insucesso, de uma coleção fica nítido e tem seus maiores impactos de incerteza. Em sentido contrário, o fast fashion ganha notoriedade por resolver esta problemática, encurtando ciclos produtivos e postergando acabamentos de produção, em uma cadeia de suprimentos que atende às solicitações do varejo, com trocas constantes de informação. Este modelo de negócios se torna, na revisão bibliográfica, um bom exemplo de aplicação das práticas de Gestão da Cadeia de Suprimentos (GCS) na moda, com exemplos recorrentes de marcas do Reino Unido, Suécia, Estados Unidos, Itália e Espanha. Surge, então, o interesse em verificar como interagem os agentes das CPTC do Brasil, comparando coleções programadas e de moda rápida, e se conseguem aplicar as diretrizes da GCS. Um estudo de casos múltiplos em 4 empresas, sendo 2 em modelo tradicional e 2 fast fashion, leva a resultados que confirmam a literatura nas práticas varejistas, enquanto diferem, especialmente nos métodos produtivos, levando a indagações sobre a adaptação dos parâmetros internacionais ao cenário local / The inherent dynamism of fashion exposes supply chains to a constant challenge: managing the relationship with multiple agents involved in a long productive lead time, while meeting the yearnings for frequent novelties at the point of sale. The Textile and Apparel Production Chain (TAPC) anticipates trends, within two years, and directs to their factories a flow of original products into shapes, materials, colors and prints. However, it is in retail that the success, or failure, of a fashion collection becomes clear and has its greatest impacts of uncertainty. On the other hand, fast fashion is notorious for solving this problem, shortening production cycles and postponing production finishes, in a supply chain that responds to retail requests, with constant information exchanges. This business model becomes, in the bibliographic review, a good example of applying the practices of Supply Chain Management (SCM) in fashion, with recurring examples of brands from the United Kingdom, Sweden, the United States, Italy and Spain. Arises interest in checking how the TAPC agents of Brazil interact, comparing traditional and fast-fashion collections, and whether they are able to apply the guidelines of the SCM. A multiple case study in 4 companies, 2 in a traditional model and 2 fast fashion, leads to results that confirm the literature in retail practices, while differing, especially in productive methods, leading to inquiries about the adaptation of international parameters to the local scenario

Modeindustrin karaktäriseras idag av fluktuerande efterfrågan och snabbt växlande trender, vilket gör att modeföretagens effektivitet ständigt sätts på sin spets för att möta marknadens förändringar. Förmågan att ta snabba beslut och anpassa sig till marknaden är idag avgörande för att vara konkurrenskraftig. Detta har bidragit till stora förändringar, inte enbart inom produktion och logistik, utan även inom inköp vilket har fått en allt mer viktig roll. Inköp och Supply Management är idag en vedertagen term i modeindustrin, inte bara på grund av sin finansiella inverkan utan även sin ökade strategiska roll i företaget. Enligt tidigare forskning kan en integrering av strategiskt inköp leda till konkurrensfördelar. Däremot har en brist i litteraturen gällande strategiskt inköp i fast fashion-företag identifierats. Syftet med denna studie var därför att undersöka inköpsfunktionens strategiska roll i svenska fast fashion-företag idag. Studien använder en kvalitativ forskningsmetod och resultatet baseras på empirisk data insamlad genom intervjuer. Intervjuerna har genomförts hos tre svenska fast fashion-företag med respektive fem respondenter vilka har omfattande kunskap och förståelse för företagets inköpsfunktion. Baserat på en analys av den empiriska datan gentemot insamlad sekundärdata från tidigare forskning drog slutsatsen att inköpsavdelningen i svenska fast fashion-företag har en viktig roll både ekonomiskt och strategiskt. Detta eftersom inköparnas beslut påverkar och kräver en kommunikation med stora delar av företaget. Vidare tyder studiens resultat på att strategiskt inköp faktiskt förekommer hos svenska fast fashion-företag, dock inte i sin helhet. Detta beror delvis på att strategiskt inköp såsom det definieras i litteraturen inte är ett vedertaget koncept hos de tre företagen. Avslutningsvis konstateras det att den tilltagande relevansen av strategiskt inköp kombinerat med den ökande globala konkurrensen tyder på att inköpsfunktionens strategiska roll kommer fortsätta växa. / Today’s fashion apparel industry is characterized by a volatile demand and fast trends. These toughened conditions have resulted in fashion companies constantly being put on their edge in order to follow the market changes. The ability to make quick decisions and adapt to the market is there fore crucial in order to stay competitive. This has led to extensive changes not only in production and logistics but also within purchasing operations, which in turn serve a more important role than ever. Purchasing and Supply management is nowadays an established termin the industry not only due to its financial effect but also its increasingly strategic role within the company. According to previous research, integrating a strategic approach towards the purchasing function might lead to competitive advantage. However, a shortage of research about strategic purchasing specifically in fast fashion companies has been identified. The purpose of this study was to examine the purchasing function’s current strategic role in Swedish fast fashion companies. The study uses a qualitative research approach and the result is based upon empirical data collected through interviews. These interviews have been conducted with five representatives of three Swedish fast fashion companies that have an extensive knowledge and understanding about the purchasing function. By analysing the empirical results in relation to secondary data obtained from previous research, it was found that the purchasing function in Swedish fast fashion companies holds an important role, both financially and strategically. This strategic importance is derived from the company wide impact of purchasers’ decision-making along with the need for communication between the purchasing function and other significant departments. Furthermore, the results indicate that strategic purchasing does in fact appear in Swedish fast fashion companies, although not to a full extent. This is partially due the fact that the concept of strategic purchasing, as the literature defines it, is not established within these three companies. At last it is concluded that the previously increased relevance of strategic purchasing combined with the cultivating globalisation indicates that the purchasing functions’ strategic role will continue to grow. The thesis is written in Swedish.

Samhället står inför stora utmaningar att konsumera hållbart, vilket fast fashion-företag kritiseras för att bidra till. På grund av den ökade medvetenheten i samhället om hållbarhet har dessa företag börjat ta större ansvar för miljön genom att utveckla mer hållbara affärslösningar. I samband med detta kommer dock nya utmaningar, nämligen att nå ut till konsumenter med det bra arbete som görs så att de både blir intresserade av produkterna och påverkas till attkonsumera dessa. Kommunikationen som företag sänder ut har enligt tidigare forskning ansettsbristfällig ur flera aspekter, vilket innefattar hur den är utformad och vad den innehåller för attkunden ska känna att de hållbara plaggen är attraktiva att köpa. Marknadsföringen har nämligen inte uppfattats som trovärdig och konsumenter uppger att de upplever risker med de hållbara produktalternativen. I denna kvalitativa studie har innehållsanalyser gjorts på sex stora skandinaviska fast fashion-företags digitala kanaler, mer exakt Instagram samt hemsidor. Detta för att undersöka hur fast fashion-företag faktiskt kommunicerar idag och vad det är som karaktäriserar deras strategier. Studiens resultat syftar till att bidra med kunskap och tillvägagångssätt som modeföretag, medhållbara produktalternativ, kan ta hjälp av för att nå ut med dess budskap. Frågeställningarna som vi sökt svar på är hur fast fashion-företags visuella kommunikation av hållbara produktalternativ uttrycks samt vilka strategier som kan urskiljas för att företagen skall engagera konsumenter samt minska konsumenters upplevda risker med hållbara produktalternativ. Tidigare forskning har ofta fokuserat på att studera vad som påverkarkonsumenters köpintention och vilka strategier som ökar varumärkens värde. Med vår studiekom vi fram till hur kommunikationen faktiskt ser ut idag och resultatet visar att det finns en mängd olika strategier som företag använder sig av. Det företagen gör mest av är att kommunicera hållbarhetspåståenden, men de talar även till konsumenters personliga vinning. Det har också gått att urskilja att vissa fast fashion-företag använder sig av storytelling och word-of-mouth för att skapa engagemang kring hållbara produkter, men detta till en lägre grad. Utifrån deras utformning av kommunikationen går det vidare att se att de på olika sätt vill bjuda in till en hållbarhetsdialog med kunden, men det är eventuellt ett område som skulle kunna undersökas mer. De slutsatserna som går att dra är därmed att företag behöver arbeta mer med sin kommunikation för att konsumenter ska nås på ett sätt som uppfattas som trovärdigt vad gäller hållbarhetspåståenden. Företag bör även arbeta med att generera mer engagemanggällande hållbarhet. / In today’s society fast fashion companies are being criticized for promoting unsustainable consumption, which inhibit reaching the societal sustainability goals regarding consumption. But since there is an increased awareness about sustainability, these companies have started to take greater responsibility for the environment by developing more sustainable business solutions that enable a production of sustainable product alternatives. Although companies progress, this adaption arises new challenges regarding marketing communication. Today’s companies struggle to reach consumers with their new sustainability approach in order to both influence and make consumers interested to consume more sustainable products. According to previous research, the communication that companies send out has been considered deficient in several aspects. This includes what the messages in the marketing communication contain to make consumers feel that the sustainable garments are attractive to buy as well as its perceived reliability. In this qualitative study, we implement content analyzes on six Scandinavian fast fashion companies’ digital channels, more precisely Instagram and websites. This enables the possibility to analyze the communication of their more sustainable products and examine what characterizes their communication strategies. The study's result is aimed to contribute with more knowledge within the field and marketing strategies that fast fashion companies, with sustainable product alternatives, can use to reach out with their sustainability message regarding their sustainable products. The questions we sought to answer were how fast fashion companies expressed their visual communication of sustainable product alternatives. But also, which marketing strategies that could be distinguished in the company’s communication in order to both engage consumers and reduce consumers perceived risk with buying sustainable product alternatives. Previous research has often focused on studying what affects consumers purchasing intention and what kind of marketing strategies there are to increase brand value. With this as our framework, we came to know what the sustainability communication looks like today within fast fashion companies. The results show that there are a variety of strategies that companies use. Companies mostly communicate sustainability claims, but they also speak to consumers' personal gain. It has also been discernible that some fast fashion companies use storytelling and word-of-mouth to create engagement around sustainable products, but to a lesser extent. Based on the design of the communication, it is possible to see that they want to invite consumers in a sustainability dialogue when marketing their products, but this is an area that could be explored more. The conclusions that can be drawn are therefore that companies need to work more with their communication in order to reach consumers in a way that is perceived as credible in terms of sustainability claims. Companies should also work to generate more engagement around sustainability in their marketing strategies.