Wearable sensors and systems have become increasingly popular for diverse applications. An emerging technology for physical activity assessment is Smart Textile Systems (STSs), comprised of sensitive/actuating fiber, yarn, or fabric that can sense an external stimulus. All required components of an STS (sensors, electronics, energy supply, etc.) can be conveniently embedded into a garment, providing a fully textile-based system. Thus, STSs have clear potential utility for measuring health-relevant aspects of human activity, and to do so passively and continuously in diverse environments. For these reasons, STSs have received increasing interest in recent studies. Despite this, however, limited evidence exists to support the implementation of STSs during diverse applications. Our long-term goal was to assess the feasibility and accuracy of using an STS to monitor human activities. Our immediate objective was to investigate the accuracy of an STS in three representative applications with respect to occupational scenarios, healthcare, and activities of daily living. A particular STS was examined, consisting of a smart socks (SSs), using textile pressure sensors, and smart undershirt (SUS), using textile strain sensors. We also explored the relative merits of these two approaches, separately and in combination. Thus, five studies were completed to design and evaluate the usability of the smart undershirt, and investigate the accuracy of implementing an STS in the noted applications. Input from the SUS led to planar angle estimations with errors on the order of 1.3 and 9.4 degrees for the low-back and shoulder, respectively. Overall, individuals preferred wearing a smart textile system over an IMU system and indicated the former as superior in several aspects of usability. In particular, the short-sleeved T-shirt was the most preferred garments for an STS. Results also indicated that the smart shirt and smart socks, both individually and in combination, could detect occupational tasks, abnormal and normal gaits, and activities of daily living with greater than 97% accuracy. Based on our findings, we hope to facilitate future work that more effectively quantifies sedentary periods that may be deleterious to human health, as well as detect activity types that may be help or hinder health and fitness. Such information may be of use to individuals and workers, healthcare providers, and ergonomists. More specifically, further analyses from this investigation could provide strategies for: (a) modifying a sedentary lifestyle or work scenario to a more active one, and (b) helping to more accurately identify occupational injury risk factors associated with human movement. / PHD / The use of interactive or “smart” textiles that have sensing material(s) incorporated into them supports an emerging technology for physical activity assessment called Smart Textile Systems (STSs). STSs are an increasingly useful technology for researchers, athletes, patients, and others. Our aims in the current study were the development and assessment of a new smart undershirt (SUS) that was designed to monitor low-back and shoulder motions, and to evaluate the preferred placement and usability of two STSs. We also assessed the accuracy of two smart garments, smart socks (SSs) and the SUS, both individually and in combination. Accuracy was evaluated in terms of the ability of these systems to distinguish between diverse simulated occupational tasks, normal and abnormal walking patterns, and several typical daily activities. Our investigation indicated that STSs could discriminate between different human activities common in three domains: occupational scenarios, healthcare, and activities of daily life. We also found that both smart garments (i.e., SSs and SUS) provided similar accuracy for activity classification, typically exceeding 97%, and thus there was no clear superiority between these two smart garments. We conclude that, overall, smart garments represent a promising area of research and a potential alternative for discriminating and monitoring a range of human activities. Use of this technology in the future may have positive implications for health promotion.

Thesis (MSpor)--University of Stellenbosch, 2007. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Various types of post-exercise recovery strategies have become part of the modern athlete’s daily routine. It is a well known that inadequate recovery will prolong the time it takes for the runner’s body to adequately adapt between training sessions and competitions. Anecdotal claims have been made about compression garments as a beneficial method to assist recovery after training sessions and competitions. Until now limited scientific research has addressed the influence that compression garments have on the recovery process after sporting activities. The benefits of compression garments, as a possible recovery modality, are that it is costeffective, practical and easily obtainable. This study endeavored to investigate the possible influence that compression garments may have on middle-aged long distance runners’ recovery rate after a prolonged run. This is the first study that has focused on compression garments as a post-exercise recovery modality for experienced middle-aged long distance runners. The other unique aspect of this study is the prolonged two-hour treadmill protocol that was used to induce muscle soreness. In addressing the aims, a randomized, crossover study design was used to investigate the possible benefits that the high pressure (CCL II 23-32 mmHg (mercury millimeter)) graduated compression garments may bring about. Seven competitive male long distance runners (height: 176.0 ± 8.6 cm; body mass: 92.5 ± 11.8 kg; VO2max: 45.7 ± 5.0 mL.kg-1.min-1) between the ages of 36 to 51 years volunteered for the study. The runners had to complete a two-hour treadmill run at 70 % of their predetermined maximum aerobic capacity, followed by a monitored 72-hour recovery period. The first part of the prolonged run was a 90–minute variant gradient run, followed by a 30-minute downhill run. Each subject acted as his own control and visited the Stellenbosch University’s Sport Physiology Laboratory (South Africa) on two occasions, separated by 7 to 28 days. One test was done with a compression garment (23 to 32 mmHg) and the other without. Testing included the measurement of lower limb circumferences (ankle, calf, mid- and proximal thigh), plasma lactate, lactate dehydrogenase and creatine kinase concentrations and the completion of subjective questionnaires on perceived muscle soreness (visual analog scale (VAS)). The lower extremities’ functional ability was determined with a time to exhaustion (TTE) step test, a vertical jump test (VJ) and modified sit-and-reach flexibility test. Preexercise measurements were taken and immediately after and during the 72 hour after the treadmill run and repeated for the second bout. The main outcomes of this study showed that the two-hour treadmill run induced delayed onset of muscle soreness, with and without the compression garment. Evidence of this was a significant rise in plasma creatine kinase (CKp) over the duration of both trials (P < 0.05). The compression garment significantly reduced swelling in the calf muscle (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Runners showed a lower perceived muscular pain and discomfort while performing functional knee movements at 24 and 48-hours after the two-hour run with the compression garment (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm and 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm on VAS, respectively; P < 0.05). Significant differences in perceived muscle soreness between the WCG and WOCG trials were observed at 24-hours after the run during rest (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm; P = 0.02) and with stretching (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm on VAS P = 0.02). The perceived pain associated with pressure was significantly lower with the compression garment at 24 (307 %) and 48-hours (237 %) after the run (P < 0.05). Blood lactate levels were reduced during the acute phase of recovery at 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) and 30 minutes (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) after the run, as well as plasma creatine kinase concentrations were statistically significantly lower at 24-hours (238.3 ± 81.3 vs. 413.3 ± 250.8 units.L-1; P = 0.005) after exercise with the compression garment. The two-hour treadmill run and the compression garment had no significant influence on the runners’ lower limb strength, power, endurance or flexibility (P > 0.05). Compression garments demonstrated the potential to enhance recovery after prolonged strenuous exercise in well trained middle-aged runners. In addition, runners did not experience additional fatigue from the moderate to high pressure garments. The effect of higher pressure compression garments on athletic performance and the psychological influence of the garment need further investigation. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Verskillende tipes naoefening herstelstrategië, vorm deel van die moderne atleet se daaglikse routine. Dit is wel bekend dat onvoldoende herstel sal beteken dat die atleet se liggaam langer sal neen om aan te pas tussen inoefen sessies en kompetisies. Sekere bewerings word al gemaak omtrent die voordeligheid van kompressiesokkies tydens die herstelperiode na oefening sessies en kompetisies. Tot nou toe was daar beperkte wetenskaplike navorsing oor die invloed van kompressie sokkies of die herstel proses van sport aktiwiteite. Die voordeel van kompressie sokkies as ‘n moontlike herstelmetode, is dat dit koste-effektief, prakties en maklik verkrybaar is. Hierdie studie poog om ‘n ondersoek in te stel na die moontlike invloed wat kompressie sokkies op middeljarige lang-aftstandatlete se herstelperiode sal hê na ‘n verlengde hardloopsessie. Hierdie is die eerste studie wat konsentreer op kompressie sokkies as ‘n naoefenings hersteltegniek vir ervare middeljarige lang-afstandatlete. Die ander unieke aspek van die ondersoek is die langdurige tweeuur trapmeul protokol wat gebruik word om spierpyn te veroorsaak. Om die doel te bereik, is ’n lukrake oorkruis studie gebruik om ondersoek in te stel na die moontlike voordele van die hoë druk (CCL II 23-32 mmHg) kompressie sokkies. Hierdie sokkies toon ’n progressiewe verhooging van druk vanaf die enkle tot onder die knieskyf. Sewe mededingende langafstand atlete (lengte : 176.0 ± 8.6 cm; liggaams massa: 92.5 ± 11.8 kg; VO2maks: 45.7 ± 5.0 mL.kg-1.min-1) tussen die ouderdomme van 36 en 51 jaar, het aan die studie deel geneem. Die wedlopers moes ‘n twee-uur lange trapmeul toets voltooi, teen 70% van hul vooraf bepaalde maksimum aerobiese kapasiteit. Dit is gevolg deur ‘n gemonitorde 72-uur herstel periode. Die eerste deel van die twee-uur hardloop sessie was ‘n 90-minuut afwisselende opdraende en afdraende hardloop stel, wat gevolg is deur a 30-minuut afdraande deel. Elke deelnemer was sy eie kontrole en het op twee geleenthede die Stellenbosch Universiteit se Sport Fisiologiese Laboratorium (Suid Afrika) besoek. Die twee besoeke is tussen 7 en 28 dae geskei. Een toets is met kompressie sokkies gedoen (23 – 32 mmHg) en die ander sonder. Die toetse het die volgende behels: laer been omtrekke (enkel, kuit, middel- and bo dy), die versameling en ontleding van bloed monsters vir plasma laktaat, laktaat dehydrogenase and kreatine kinase konsentrasies en die voltooing van subjektiewe vraelyste oor die graad van spierpyn ervaaring (“visual analog scale” (VAS)). Die onderlyf funksionele vermoëns is bepaal met ’n tyd tot uitputtings traptoets, ‘n vertikale sprong toets en ‘n gewysige sit-en-strek soepelheids toets. Data is voor die oefeninge in gevorder asook direk daarna, en gedurende die 72 uur na die trapmeul draf. Die metings vir die tweede sessie is herhaal. Die hoof uitkomste van die studie het gewys dat die twee-uur trapmeulsessie het spierpyn veroorsaak, met en sonder die kompressie sokkies. Die bewys hiervan was ‘n betekensvolle toename in plasma kreatien kinase (CKp) oor die tydperk van albei oefening toetse (P<0.05). Die kompressie sokkies het die swelling in die kuitspiere verminder, in vergelyking met die toetse sonder kompressie sokkies (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Wedlopers met die kompressie sokkies het minder spierseerheid en ongerief aangeteken toe hulle knie beweegings gedoen het op 24 en 48-uur na die twee-ure trapmeul toets (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm op VAS en 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm op VAS, onderskeidelik; P < 0.05). Betekenisvolle verskille is waargeneem tussen die toetse met en sonder kompressie sokkies, op 24-uur na die twee-ure toets gedurende rus (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm op VAS; P = 0.02) en met strek oefeninge (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm op VAS P = 0.02). Die pyn wat ervaar was met drukking, was betekenisvol minder met die kompressie sokkies op 24 (307 %) en 48-uur (237 %) na die trapmeul sessie (P < 0.05). Bloed laktaat konsentrasie in die sirkulasie was verlaag gedurende die akute fase van die herstelings periode op 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) en 30 minute (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) na die hardloop sessie, sowel as die plasma kreatine kinase konsentrasie was statisties betekenisvol laer by 24 uur (238.3 ± 81.3 vs 413.3 ± 250.8 eenhede L-1; P = 0.005) na die hardloop sessie met die kompressie sokkies. Die twee-ure trapmeul toets en die kompressie sokkies het geen betekenisvolle invloed gehad op die wedlopers se onderlyf ledemate se plofkrag, uithouvermoë of soepelheid (P > 0.05) nie. Kompressie sokkies het gewys dat dit potensiaal het om met herstel te help na lang en harde oefening in geoefende middeljarige atlete. Nietemin is daar verdere wetenskaplike navorsing nodig om dit te bevestig. Wedlopers het nie addisionele vermoeienis van die drukking van kompressie sokkies ervaar nie. Sterker drukkende kompressie sokkies sowel as die sielkundige invloed van die sokkies benodig verdere navorsing.spierpyn ervaaring (“visual analog scale” (VAS)). Die onderlyf funksionele vermoëns is bepaal met ’n tyd tot uitputtings traptoets, ‘n vertikale sprong toets en ‘n gewysige sit-en-strek soepelheids toets. Data is voor die oefeninge in gevorder asook direk daarna, en gedurende die 72 uur na die trapmeul draf. Die metings vir die tweede sessie is herhaal. Die hoof uitkomste van die studie het gewys dat die twee-uur trapmeulsessie het spierpyn veroorsaak, met en sonder die kompressie sokkies. Die bewys hiervan was ‘n betekensvolle toename in plasma kreatien kinase (CKp) oor die tydperk van albei oefening toetse (P<0.05). Die kompressie sokkies het die swelling in die kuitspiere verminder, in vergelyking met die toetse sonder kompressie sokkies (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Wedlopers met die kompressie sokkies het minder spierseerheid en ongerief aangeteken toe hulle knie beweegings gedoen het op 24 en 48-uur na die twee-ure trapmeul toets (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm op VAS en 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm op VAS, onderskeidelik; P < 0.05). Betekenisvolle verskille is waargeneem tussen die toetse met en sonder kompressie sokkies, op 24-uur na die twee-ure toets gedurende rus (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm op VAS; P = 0.02) en met strek oefeninge (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm op VAS P = 0.02). Die pyn wat ervaar was met drukking, was betekenisvol minder met die kompressie sokkies op 24 (307 %) en 48-uur (237 %) na die trapmeul sessie (P < 0.05). Bloed laktaat konsentrasie in die sirkulasie was verlaag gedurende die akute fase van die herstelings periode op 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) en 30 minute (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) na die hardloop sessie, sowel as die plasma kreatine kinase konsentrasie was statisties betekenisvol laer by 24 uur (238.3 ± 81.3 vs 413.3 ± 250.8 eenhede L-1; P = 0.005) na die hardloop sessie met die kompressie sokkies. Die twee-ure trapmeul toets en die kompressie sokkies het geen betekenisvolle invloed gehad op die wedlopers se onderlyf ledemate se plofkrag, uithouvermoë of soepelheid (P > 0.05) nie. Kompressie sokkies het gewys dat dit potensiaal het om met herstel te help na lang en harde oefening in geoefende middeljarige atlete. Nietemin is daar verdere wetenskaplike navorsing nodig om dit te bevestig. Wedlopers het nie addisionele vermoeienis van die drukking van kompressie sokkies ervaar nie. Sterker drukkende kompressie sokkies sowel as die sielkundige invloed van die sokkies benodig verdere navorsing.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher's earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

Ephemerality is one of the most essential characteristics of fashion, since fashion by definition is existing in the present, in the fleeing moment. Also, fashion is closely related to art and there is currently no clear theoretical distinction made regarding the boundary between these two domains. In this essay I have explored the concept of transiency and the relationship between fashion and art in relation to fashion in general and to the collection Haute Papier, made by the fashion designer Bea Szenfeld, in specific. The Haute Papier collection is constructed almost entirely out of simple white paper sheets and of this reason it can be regarded as ephemeral. The material also positions the garments in a void between fashion and art, simultaneously existing in both domains and in none of them. I have conducted an object analysis of three of the garments from Haute Papier with the aim of discerning aspects of ephemerality, aspects that criticizes the age in which we live and how the collection positions itself in regard to fashion and art. The theories that I have applied to my material emanates from different aspects of transiency and the fashion and art relationship and includes, among others, theories from Walter Benjamin and Barbara Vinken and extractions from the anthology Fashion and Art by Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas. In the analysis it became visible that transiency can be discerned in many varying aspects of the collection, for example in the material and in the time in which fashion operates. What also became visible was that the definition of the object, as art or as fashion, above all depends on which system it is part of, but that it also can change this definition if the context changes.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-12-17T14:35:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MariaGF_Capa_ate_parte_1.pdf: 498896 bytes, checksum: 914a9b87fd7f84c3792ca757879da202 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-12-20 / This research work deals with the compilation of a dictionary on clothing terminology intended to be used as a pedagogic tool as part of the teaching and learning process in the Textile Engineering Course at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. The main terms were selected and assessed by a team of textile teachers and students with the objective to be structured as a conceptual body of information on the following sub-areas of clothing terminology: materials (fabrics and trimmings) and products (garments). This research comprises three main steps: (a) characterization and understanding of the technical vocabulary in the clothing area as well as the identification of a pedagogic demand for a dictionary on clothing terminology, clearly expressed by the textile lecturers and students involved in the assessment of the need and validation of this project development; (b) a proposal for a specific methodology for the compilation of the dictionary which could help the communication process in the lecturing of clothing terminology and (c) based on the terminological principles and the technique of focal groups the dictionary was assessed. The technique of focal groups was used in the first step. In the second step the technique used was that of the terminological methodology adapted to the teaching approach in the Textile Course. In the third step the technique of focal groups was again utilized. It was observed that the main concern of lecturers and students is the lack of a standardized vocabulary, which renders difficult the communication process in both the teaching and learning activities as well as the professional ones in the textile industries. Various aspects, which can overlap, cause this lack of standardization. The main ones pointed out by the study team in the focal groups are: usage of regional words or expressions, usage of foreign words or expressions, analogies, and the low level of formal education, mainly among the industry workers. Another aspect to be considered is the lack of textile literature written in the Portuguese language of Brazil. This evidence shows the importance of a clothing terminology dictionary which will benefit both the education and professional activties in this field of knowledge. This dictionary will also give a substantial contribution to terminological standardization in our research field. With view to fulfill this demand, a dictionary of clothing terminology was compiled with 760 main entries, according to the modern practice in terminology with the necessary modifications concerning our needs. The result of the dictionary assessment was very assertive regarding its structure, contents and possible use in various contexts. The team work emphasized their contribution to the standardization process of the terms that proved to be one of the most important and difficult aspects of this researh work. The significance of this structured terminological dictionary was confirmed by the focal group participants relating to its use for teaching and learning activities, as a reference book, as a source of technical information and also as a tool for pedagogic studies and planning, as well as a significant collaboration to the pedagogic practices in the textile engineering course at University or any other educational institution. Besides, this dictionary can also be used to supply information within the textile field. We are aware that the present work will not exhaust the objectives of this research due to its limitations in opposition to the vast complexity demanded by the compilation of a complete work including all the areas and sub-areas of textile engineering. However, it is an important source for dissemination of concepts on the field of clothing terminology and a tool to effective standardization of the terms used in this subject field / Esta pesquisa trata do vocabul?rio t?cnico t?xtil, especialmente na ?rea do vestu?rio, utilizado como instrumento did?tico no processo ensino-aprendizagem do curso de Engenharia T?xtil, da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte. Esse vocabul?rio foi criteriosamente examinado com o prop?sito de ser conceituado e contextualizado, nas sub?reas do vestu?rio, materiais (tecidos e aviamentos) e produtos (pe?as do vestu?rio), e, para isso, propomos um dicion?rio terminol?gico, justificado e avaliado por professores e alunos. Assim, a pesquisa comporta tr?s etapas principais: (a) caracteriza??o da percep??o do vocabul?rio t?cnico da ?rea do vestu?rio, e identifica??o de uma demanda pedag?gica formulada por professores e alunos da ?rea t?xtil: a necessidade de um dicion?rio t?cnico do vestu?rio; (b) proposta de uma metodologia, e elabora??o de um produto concreto, para suprir essa demanda: um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio; (c) avalia??o desse produto por professores e alunos da ?rea. Aplicamos a abordagem qualitativa, fundamentada nos princ?pios Terminologia e a na t?cnica de Grupo Focal. Para a primeira etapa, utilizamos a t?cnica dos grupos focais. Na segunda etapa, utilizamos a metodologia terminol?gica, adaptada ? nossa realidade de ensino. E na execu??o da terceira etapa, recorremos, tamb?m, ? t?cnica dos grupos focais. Constatamos que a principal preocupa??o de professores e alunos converge para a falta de padroniza??o do vocabul?rio, que dificulta a comunica??o, tanto no processo ensino-aprendizagem quanto nas atividades profissionais. As causas da falta de padroniza??o s?o variadas e se sobrep?em, mas foram apontadas entre as principais: os regionalismos, o uso de analogias, os estrangeirismos e a baixa escolaridade. Quanto ? necessidade de um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, ficou evidenciada a falta de material bibliogr?fico em portugu?s do Brasil. Tanto professores como alunos mencionaram, repetidamente, a escassez de material t?cnico. Nesse sentido, um dicion?rio t?cnico, adaptado ? nossa realidade, pode representar uma contribui??o substancial para a normaliza??o terminol?gica. Para atender a essa demanda, elaboramos um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, com 760 entradas, constru?do conforme os procedimentos da moderna terminologia com os necess?rios ajustes. A avalia??o do dicion?rio foi bastante positiva no que se refere ? sua estrutura, conte?do e usos poss?veis em diversos contextos. Os participantes salientaram sua contribui??o para a padroniza??o do vocabul?rio que, conforme observado se configurava num dos principais problemas. Professores e alunos destacaram sua utilidade para o ensino-aprendizagem, como obra de refer?ncia, fonte de informa??es t?cnicas e instrumento de estudo e planejamento did?tico. Acreditamos que, atrav?s da cria??o do dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, estamos colaborando de maneira significativa para as pr?ticas pedag?gicas no curso de Engenharia T?xtil. H? ainda, a expectativa de que esse instrumento possa ser ?til ?s demais ?reas t?xtil. Com este trabalho, n?o pretendemos exaurir a pesquisa. Temos consci?ncia de suas limita??es, em contraposi??o ? amplitude e complexidade que exigiria um trabalho terminol?gico que inclu?sse todas as ?reas e sub?reas do curso de Engenharia T?xtil. No entanto, temos a convic??o de que ele poder? servir como uma importante fonte para dissemina??o de conceitos sobre a ?rea do vestu?rio, e, acreditamos, colaborar para a efetiva??o da padroniza??o da terminologia utilizada nessa ?rea

Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2016-05-04T12:23:45Z No. of bitstreams: 1 clararochafreesz.pdf: 12720467 bytes, checksum: cc4e5e3ab2d5321e3d2559d81b90f2a0 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2016-06-07T15:31:02Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 clararochafreesz.pdf: 12720467 bytes, checksum: cc4e5e3ab2d5321e3d2559d81b90f2a0 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-06-07T15:31:02Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 clararochafreesz.pdf: 12720467 bytes, checksum: cc4e5e3ab2d5321e3d2559d81b90f2a0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-08-27 / A presente dissertação tem como objeto de pesquisa três indumentárias que pertenceram a D. Pedro II e que por ele foram utilizadas em eventos oficiais: o fardão da maioridade (1840), a veste de coroação (1841) e o fardão de casamento (1843), que fazem parte do acervo do Museu Mariano Procópio. A pesquisa tem como objetivo percorrer a trajetória cultural das peças enfocada em três diferentes fases, desde que foram criadas no século XIX aos dias atuais, e para isso, foram consultadas diversificadas fontes em arquivos públicos, como documentos textuais (cartas, relatórios de museus e códices da mordomia-mor), artigos de jornais, coleções de fotografias, iconografias e os próprios objetos. Inicialmente, através de questões relacionadas à memória monárquica e suas apropriações na década de 1920, será analisado o momento no qual passam de herança do mordomo imperial Paulo Barbosa da Silva a mercadorias de antiquário, em 1926. Neste período, as roupas foram valorizadas como importantes relíquias históricas nacionais que deveriam ser preservadas. No segundo capítulo são analisadas como acervo museal e através da expografia, dos processos de restauração e dos registros museológicos dos trajes, buscou-se investigar suas destinações, concluindo-se que foram explorados principalmente como ―objetos-relíquia‖, e não como documentos, meios de conhecimento histórico. Por último, as características materiais e os estilos são examinados, através dos quais se pôde conhecer a procedência e os processos de manufatura, que se deram no Rio de Janeiro, possivelmente a partir de projetos de artistas da Corte. Com o trabalho, espera-se compreender os meios sociais que produziram, reproduziram e ressignificaram as roupas de D. Pedro II que vêm sendo preservadas há mais de 170 anos. / The dissertation is based on the research of three personal clothing that belonged to D. Pedro II and were used by him on special events: The Major military uniform (1840), the garment of coronation (1841) and the military uniform used on his wedding (1843). All three costumes are part of the Mariano Procopio Museum collection. The research was based on different sources from public files, text documents (letters, museums reports and codices of stewardship), and photography, iconography and journal articles and it aims to scroll through cultural history, focusing on three different stages from their creation to the present day. Initially we analyzed the period in the clothes pass the imperial butler Paulo Barbosa da Silva to antiquarian goods in the 1920‘s, through issues connection to monarchical memory and its appropriations at the time. The objects in this period (1920‘s) were valued as national historical relics that should be preserved. The second chapter is based on research of the garments as a museum collection, through expographic, restoration processes and museum documents of the costumes, with deep analyzes to investigate their destination in order to conclude that costumes had been explored only as ―relic-objects‖ and not as documents meant for historical knowledge. The final chapter concludes the research of characteristics and style of each material, leading to the origin and manufacturing processes that have taken place in Rio de Janeiro, possibly from the court artist‘s project. The work is expected to help understand the social environment where was produced, reproduced and conveyed the clothes of D. Pedro II creating awareness to pieces that have been preserved for more than 170 years.

The Fashion industry has grown rapidly over the past decade. The industry is one of the world’s most polluting industries and the way we produce and consume clothes has to change, to reach sustainability across the industry. The fashion industry requires a new “textile economy” where business models are developed to keep products in use and continuously circulate. Therefore, developing business model that can keep products in use and make them circulate is one way forward. Product-Service-Systems (PSS) have become a discussion amongst researchers to be a possible way of reaching more sustainable practices across the industry. This study therefore looks at one form of PSS, leasing and rental. The study will investigate, technical garments because from a durability and quality perspective they are ideal to incorporate in this type of model. Therefore, this study aimed at developing an ideal circular leasing and rental model to see what requirements is needed to keep activity-based, technical garments in use. It was also of interest to investigate what challenges and opportunities the Swedish outdoor industry face when implementing a leasing and rental model, and if they can fulfil the requirements of the ideal circular model. A qualitative method was used through semi-structured interviews to collect the empirical data. The results show that the requirements of an ideal circular leasing and rental model includes Sustainability, Investments/Economic profit, Human resources, Logistics, Product design and Upcycling. The empirical results from the Swedish outdoor industry shows that they require the same factors as the model, however two more requirements are highlighted by the industry, Thirdparty-partner and customer demand. The results also shows that today it is too challenging for the Swedish outdoor industry fulfil the requirements of an ideal circular leasing and rental model. Collaborating with a third-party-partner is one aspect the industry see as an opportunity. The products have an opportunity to be kept in use because the brands will care for them. However, the industry face more challenges than opportunities, some of the challenges are investments and economic profit, logistics and upcycling processes of activity-based technical garments.

M. Tech. (Department of Visual Arts and Design: Fashion, Faculty of Human Sciences), Vaal University of Technology. / Customer satisfaction has proven to be a major determinant on the success or failure of a business. Regrettably, fashion entrepreneurs are not meeting customer expectations because they have problems that are affecting the quality of their work. In order to promote customer satisfaction, fashion entrepreneurs require a master plan that is customer-based. Thus, they could implement customisation of garments to address customers’ concerns. It is, therefore, crucial for home-based fashion entrepreneurs to be aware of their customers’ needs and the factors that affect their satisfaction to boost its levels. Based on this background, it was found necessary to conduct a research study with the aim to determine factors that affect customer satisfaction of custom-made garments produced by home-based fashion entrepreneurs in the Emfuleni Local Municipality. A qualitative study, applying purposive and snowball sampling techniques, was conducted by means of one-on-one interviews. Data saturation guided the study and was reached after nineteen women were interviewed and two more interviews were done to enhance credibility. Analysis of data was conducted applying the six stages of Creswell’s approach of data analysis. During this process four themes emerged and were presented in line with their categories. The study findings revealed that some of the factors that largely influenced customer satisfaction were service quality, product quality, price, value and location. Garment fit and uniqueness were also found to be reasons why participants opted for custom-made garments. However, some of the participating women did not get the satisfaction they were seeking. Their satisfaction was negatively affected by garment quality, lack of communication, missing delivery deadlines and inaccessibility of the entrepreneur. The research outcome provides home-based fashion entrepreneurs with useful information to improve the levels of customer satisfaction.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen.. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher¿s earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective/ or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/ exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

No description available.