O presente trabalho constitui uma dissertação de mestrado na área de história do vestuário medieval. Dentro do contexto da Baixa Idade Média (séculos X ao XV), visa identificar e analisar os aspectos mais relevantes na indumentária dos séculos XIV e XV. O recorte temporal foi escolhido por constituir um cenário de importantes mudanças políticas, econômicas e sociais, manifestas em um vestuário rico em nuances criativas. São analisados aspectos estéticos, funcionais, materiais e produtivos deste vestuário. O modelo de pesquisa é qualitativo, de modalidade histórica. As principais fontes de dados são a literatura das áreas de História, História do Vestuário, História da Arte e Arqueologia. As principais técnicas de coleta de dados empregadas são revisão da bibliografia, pesquisa em bancos de monografias e de imagens, acervo virtual de museus e registros em fotografia. O trabalho resultou em um detalhado panorama do vestuário dos séculos XIV e XV. Foi confeccionado um protótipo de forma a exemplificar uma reconstrução a partir das soluções de confecção propostas por autores do campo. A pesquisa constitui uma ferramenta para criação e confecção de figurinos ambientados ou inspirados na Baixa Idade Média, bem como reproduções e restaurações de peças históricas de museus / The present work of research constitutes a thesis on the history of medieval clothing field. Within the context of Late Middle Ages (10th to 15th centuries), it aims to identify and analyze the most relevant aspects in costume, particularly in the 14th and 15th centuries. The time frame was chosen for being the scenario of important political, economic and social changes. Said changes are manifest in a way of dressing that is full of creative nuances. Aesthetical, functional, material and productive aspects of said costume are analyzed. The research model is qualitative, of historical mode. The main data sources are literature in the areas of History, Art History and Archaeology. The main data collection techniques are literature review, research in monograph and image banks, online museum collections and photography records. The present work of research has resulted in a detailed overview of dress in the 14th and 15th centuries. A prototype was made in order to demonstrate a reproduction case, based on constructive solutions presented by authors of the field. This research provides a tool for creation and making of costume set or inspired in the Middle Ages, as well as replicas and restoration of historical museum clothing

Bestiários são manuscritos ricamente ilustrados e, no entanto, há poucos estudos dedicados especificamente às suas imagens. Deste modo, esta pesquisa tem por objetivo investigar o papel das imagens em três bestiários produzidos na Inglaterra entre os séculos XII e XIII, redigidos em latim. Partimos do princípio de que essas imagens não têm uma função meramente ilustrativa ou mnemônica, uma vez que raramente fazem referência às moralizações e exegeses do texto. A proposta principal desta pesquisa é, pois, analisar as imagens e suas funções nos manuscritos tendo em mente que a lógica do pensamento figurativo não é a mesma da do texto. / Bestiaries are richly illustrated manuscripts, however, there are few studies devoted specifically to its images. As it is, the purpose of this research is to investigate the role played by the images in three Latin bestiaries produced in England during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Our hypothesis is that these images do not serve a merely illustrative or mnemonic function, as they rarely reference the textual moralizations and exegeses. The objective of this work is to analyze the images and their functions in the manuscripts bearing in mind that the logic of figurative thought is not the same as the texts.

Lire la poésie de Pétrarque sous l'angle de la métamorphose est en soi une approche originale, d’autant plus que la métamorphose s'y présente sous de multiples formes : élément narratif explicite, transformation implicite par la métaphore, allusion à des mythes ovidiens, mutatio extérieure et intérieure des personnages de la fabula lyrique autobiographique, transformation des textes et de la poétique de l'auteur au fil du passage du temps, lui-même métamorphosant. Cette thèse aborde la poétique de Pétrarque en-dehors des sentiers battus, en étudiant d'abord la tradition médiévale des commentaires allégoriques des trois mythes ovidiens, Daphné, Méduse, Narcisse, qui sont fondamentaux dans les Rerum Vulgarium Fragmenta, afin de déterminer ensuite les points de contact ou de divergence avec les poésies du livre. C’est également par une démarche nouvelle que ces trois mythes principaux, auxquels s'ajoutent des fables secondaires, sont appréhendés d’après la chronologie réelle de l'écriture et ses interférences avec la construction progressive du livre-canzoniere. La thématique métamorphique d’ascendance ovidienne est ainsi confrontée à la problématique de la mutatio animi augustinienne. Enfin, la double présence des mythes métamorphiques et de la métamorphose comme réécriture, autobiographique ou métapoétique, est élargie aux Triomphes et à la poésie latine (Epystole, Africa, Bucolicum Carmen), jamais étudiés dans cette perspective. / Reading Petrarch's poetry from the angle of metamorphosis is in itself an original approach, all the more since metamorphosis takes there many different forms : a narrative explicit component, implicit transformation by metaphor, allusion to ovidian myths, external and internal mutatio of the characters of the lyric and autobiographical fabula, transformation of the texts and the author's poetics with the passing of time, which has itself a metamorphosing action. This thesis approaches Petrarch's poetics geting off the beaten paths, by studying first the medieval tradition of allegorical commentaries, particularly those concerning three ovidian myths, Daphne, Medusa, Narcissus, which are fundamental in the Rerum Vulgarium Fragmenta, with the purpose to determine then common features and divergences with the poems of the book. These three main myths, completed by secondary fables, are also studied by means of a new method, that is according to the chronology of writing and its implications with the progressive construction of the canzoniere. The metamorphic theme, of ovidian origin, is in this way confronted to the problematic of the augustinian mutatio animi. Lastly, the double presence of metamorphic myths and of metamorphosis as rewriting, autobiographical or metapoetical, is extended to the Triumphs and to latin poetry (Epystole, Africa, Bucolicum Carmen), never analysed from that viewpoint.

L’art gothique apparu en Île-de-France vers 1135 atteignit le département de la Haute-Saône, partie nord du comté de Bourgogne relevant de l’Empire germanique aux XIIe et XIIIe siècles, à partir des années 1160. Les cisterciens jouèrent un rôle déterminant dans l’introduction de ce nouvel art de bâtir dans la région. À la fin du XIIe siècle, ce mode de construction demeura d’ailleurs l’apanage de leurs abbatiales. Les formules gothiques ne se généralisèrent en effet dans l’ensemble des édifices religieux qu’à l’aube du XIIIe siècle. Ce moment précis marque le point de départ de ce mémoire de doctorat qui a pour objet de déterminer les étapes de formation du gothique comtois et de suivre son évolution jusqu’aux prolongements des modes mises à l’honneur au XIIIe siècle en ce lieu situé à la charnière entre le royaume de France et l’Empire germanique. Malgré l’adoption des formes principales du premier art gothique (voûtement d’ogives, contreforts…), l’architecture demeura dans un premier temps ancrée dans la tradition romane du XIIe siècle particulièrement marquée par le retour à la vita apostolica prôné par la réforme grégorienne. Cette tradition de simplicité ne pouvait être ébranlée que par un ordre disposé à la sobriété, l’ordre cistercien, auquel un certain nombre d’éléments architecturaux caractéristiques furent empruntés pour les premières constructions gothiques comme à Purgerot, Bétoncourt-les-Ménétriers et dans la nef de l’abbatiale de Luxeuil dont le chantier d’envergure s’ouvrit à la fin des années 1230. L’ouverture des maîtres d’œuvres au gothique classique, certes modérée, ne se produisit qu’aux alentours de 1240 (ils conservèrent leur attachement aux valeurs de muralité, à Pesmes par exemple). L’art rayonnant fit son apparition dans les années 1270 à Luxeuil, par l’intermédiaire de la Lorraine proche. Mais la mise en œuvre d’une abside vitrée ne constitua cependant pas une étape irréversible dans la construction car les édifices d’ampleur modeste élevés à la fin du XIIIe siècle et au début du siècle suivant présentent un caractère particulièrement conservateur, en écho sans doute à la nouvelle pastorale : celle des ordres mendiants. Les constructions sont simples et le décor architectural, qui a peu inspiré les sculpteurs en Franche-Comté, infime. Seule la modénature, tout à fait en adéquation avec celle d’édifices contemporains du royaume de France, a permit de situer les édifices dans la fourchette chronologique concernée par le champ de l’étude. Bien connue des maîtres d’œuvres, elle témoigne d’une volonté délibérée de leur part d’adapter les formes nouvelles à la tradition comtoise. L’architecture gothique se trouve donc en Haute-Saône à la fois dans son temps et hors des modes, ce tropisme fait sa singularité / The Gothic art appeared in Ile-de-France by 1135 reached the department of the Haute-Saône, part north of the Burgundy’s county depending on the Germanic Empire in the XIIth and XIIIth centuries, about 1160s. The Cistercians played a role determining in the introduction of this new art to build in the region. At the end of the XIIth century, this mode of construction besides remained the privilege of their abbey churches. The Gothic formulae indeed became widespread in the whole of the religious buildings only at the dawn of the XIIIth century. This precise moment marks the point of departure of this report of doctorate which has for object to determine the stages of formation of the Gothic from Franche-Comté and to follow its evolution up to the repercussions of the fashions put in the honor in the XIIIth century in this place situated in the hinge between the kingdom of France and the Germanic Empire. In spite of the adoption of the main forms of the first Gothic art (diagonal ribs, foothills), the architecture remained at first anchored in the Romanic tradition of the XIIth century particularly marked by the return in the vita apostolica lauded by the Gregorian reform. This tradition of simplicity could only be shaken by an order arranged in the sobriety, the Cistercian order, from which many characteristic architectural elements was borrowed for the first constructions Gothic as to Purgerot, Bétoncourt-les-Ménétriers and in the nave of the abbey church of Luxeuil, the large-scale construction site of which opened at the end of 1230s. The opening of architects in the classic Gothic, certainly moderated, occurred only near 1240 (they kept their attachment in the values of muralité, in Pesmes for example). The radiant art made its appearance in the 1270s in Luxeuil, through the close Lorraine. But the implementation of a glazed apse did not however constitute an irreversible stage in the construction because the buildings of modest scale raised to the end of the XIIIth century and at the beginning of the next century present a particularly conservative character, in echo doubtless in the new pastoral: that of begging orders. The constructions are simple and the architectural decoration, which has not inspired the sculptors in Franche-Comté very much, tiny. Only the mouldings, completely in adequacy with that of contemporary buildings of the kingdom of France, have allowed placing the churches in the chronology. Well known to the architects, they testify of their will deliberated to adapt the new forms to the Franche-Comté’s tradition. The Gothic architecture is thus in Haute-Saône at once in his time and out of the modes, this tropism makes its peculiarity

Bestiários são manuscritos ricamente ilustrados e, no entanto, há poucos estudos dedicados especificamente às suas imagens. Deste modo, esta pesquisa tem por objetivo investigar o papel das imagens em três bestiários produzidos na Inglaterra entre os séculos XII e XIII, redigidos em latim. Partimos do princípio de que essas imagens não têm uma função meramente ilustrativa ou mnemônica, uma vez que raramente fazem referência às moralizações e exegeses do texto. A proposta principal desta pesquisa é, pois, analisar as imagens e suas funções nos manuscritos tendo em mente que a lógica do pensamento figurativo não é a mesma da do texto. / Bestiaries are richly illustrated manuscripts, however, there are few studies devoted specifically to its images. As it is, the purpose of this research is to investigate the role played by the images in three Latin bestiaries produced in England during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Our hypothesis is that these images do not serve a merely illustrative or mnemonic function, as they rarely reference the textual moralizations and exegeses. The objective of this work is to analyze the images and their functions in the manuscripts bearing in mind that the logic of figurative thought is not the same as the texts.

Nessa dissertação abordamos certo poema de Paganus Bolotinus, cônego de Chartres na primeira metade do século XII. Sob a pena do clérigo são traçados diversos ataques a supostos eremitas que perambulam pela região espalhando as doutrinas das novas religiões e por isso são tidos como falsos. O estudo desses versos redigidos contra os falsos eremitas que vão à cidade em busca do exercício da palavra, permitiu-nos ir muito além das muralhas chartrenses. A análise da estruturação do discurso poético nos permitiu, primeiramente, dar sentido ao documento e apurar a identificação daqueles a quem se direcionam as palavras do cônego. Uma vez compreendidas as figuras em jogo na narrativa pudemos fazer considerações a respeito do eremitismo medieval, demonstrando a necessidade de pensá-lo no plural a fim de sempre deixar aberta a possibilidade de que práticas e representações não ortodoxas tenham existido entre aqueles que se sentiram atraídos por algum dos muitos aspectos desse tipo de vida religiosa. Finalmente, pudemos tecer alguns comentários de caráter teórico acerca do trabalho do historiador posto a refletir sobre níveis e dinâmicas culturais, tendo sempre em mente suas relações com a sociedade estudada e a forma literária impressa no relato textual objeto da pesquisa / This work deals with a poem of Paganus Bolotinus canon of Chartres in the first half of the 12th century. Under the clergy\'s writing a lot of attacks are done on alleged hermits who wander around that region spreading the doctrines of the new religions. Due to this fact they are considered false hermits. The study of these verses written against the false hermits, who go to the city in order to preach, allowed us to go further the walls of Chartres. In the first place, the analysis of the structure of the poetic discourse made possible to give sense to the document and to verify the recognition of those to whom the canon\'s words were addressed. Then, once the characters in the narrative were understood, we established some grounds about the medieval eremitism, showing the necessity to think it as a plural phenomenon, in order to consider if any non-orthodox practices and representations existed among those attracted by the different aspects of this type of religious life. Finally, we made some comments about the theoretical aspect that involves the work of the historian who reflects on cultural levels and its dynamics, always having in mind the relations with the studied society and the written form imprinted in the textual report that is his object of research

Pour la période médiévale, le bois en basse Provence calcaire un un sujet souvent évité, principalement à cause du manque de matériau ligneux non carbonisé conservé sur sites archéologiques.Cette thèse propose la mise en place d'une méthodologie, à la croisée des sciences humaines et sciences dures, qui permet de traiter de la question du bois d'ans l'architecture rupestre à partir de charbons prélevés en fouille, de traces d'encastrements, et d'analyses dendrochronologiques.Les traces d'encastrements visibles sur certains sites rupestres aident à la reconstitution des diamètres des bois utilisés en architecture. L'anthracologie identifie les espèces ligneuses utilisées sur les sites, et la dendrologie permet de proposer des âges par diamètre et espèce pour les arbres utilisés sur les sites. L'ensemble de ces données offre l'opportunité de proposer des reconstitutions de forêt utilisées dans l'habitat médiéval. / The lake of wood in archeological sites is a problem to work about wood and forest during the Middle ages. This work purpose a new methodological approach, to treat the wood question in rupestrian architecture. This study uses anthracological, dendrological, and architectural éléments.The print of wood in médieval walls gives the diametre of the trees used during construction. Anthracology gives the species used on archéological sites and the dendrological study purpose an age for each diametre and each species used on site.All these results give the opportunity to purpose forest reconstitution for lower Provence in Middle ages.

O célebre livro de cozinha atribuído ao romano de nome Apício (século I d.C., provavelmente) e intitulado De re coquinaria pela erudição moderna do século XIX, chegou até nós unicamente por meio de três manuscritos medievais datados dos séculos VIII e IX, dois deles provenientes dos mosteiros de Fulda e Tours. Dado importante, porém pouco explorado, tendo em vista que o receituário aparece muito mais associado às cozinhas da Roma Imperial do que aquelas da Idade Média. Partindo da hipótese de que a cópia dos manuscritos apicianos por homens da Alta Idade Média esteja ancorada a aspirações particulares ao momento dinâmico do Renascimento Carolíngio, esta tese procurou traçar o enquadramento sócio-cultural que explica a reprodução e a incorporação do receituário pelos homens e pelas cozinhas de alguns ambientes sociais do período. Para tanto, foi necessário investigar o pensamento altomedieval sobre a comida, a disponibilidade e o acesso ambiental e cultural aos ingredientes apicianos e os mecanismos que possibilitaram estabelecer um locus para a sua incorporação. / The famous cookery book assigned to a Roman called Apicius (probably 1st century AD) and entitled De coquinaria by 19th century modern scholarship have come down to us only through three manuscripts dated from 8th and 9th centuries, two of them written at the monasteries of Fulda and Tours. Important aspect, although little discussed. The recipe book is normally associated to Imperial Roman cuisine than to medieval one. Assuming that the copy of apician manuscripts by men of the Early Middle Ages is anchored in the aspirations of the dynamic Carolingian Renaissance, this thesis examined the socio-cultural framework that explains the reproduction and the incorporation of the recipe book by men and by cuisines related to certain social environments of that time. For this purpose, it was necessary to investigate early medieval thought about food, environmental and cultural availability and access to apician ingredients and, finally, the mechanism that made possible to establish a locus for its incorporation.

La thèse consiste en une étude monographique analytique et transdisciplinaire des peintures médiévales à sujet religieux de la vallée de Suse (Piémont). Cette région présente en effet, et particulièrement dans cette longue fin du Moyen Âge, entre les XIVe et XVIe siècles, une aire géographique dense et fréquentée puisqu'il s'agit d'une des voies de traversée des Alpes par excellence. Articulée entre deux grandes entités politiques, les états de Savoie et le Dauphiné de Viennois, la vallée relève du diocèse de Turin mais connaît une agitation religieuse certaine par la présence vaudoise. Elle offre ainsi un panorama complexe et une lecture fascinante des vallées de montagne des Alpes occidentales. Son corpus de peintures murales conservées et documentées représente un matériel important pour son analyse à travers les représentations culturelles dans les images, suivant une approche anthropologique. À travers l'étude des caractéristiques iconographiques et stylistiques en parallèle des données pluricontextuelles religieuses, politiques et sociologiques, la recherche a pour objectifs d'analyser les enjeux culturels des représentations murales alpines. La thèse explore ainsi d'une part les interactions entre les territoires et les pouvoirs, les relations entre l'image et les pratiques religieuses. L'analyse se penche d'autre part sur les réceptions artistiques en lien potentiel avec les aléas historiques et religieux et l'implantation spatiale. Les effets de migration des artistes mais aussi la question des transferts culturels et artistiques les concernant sont traités, notamment à travers les relations entre les sites centraux et ceux de périphérie. L'objectif de la thèse est en effet d'esquisser une synthèse de la peinture murale valsusaine à la fin du Moyen Âge, tout en questionnant la problématique des cultures alpines, finalement plurielles, et leurs enjeux à travers l'image murale médiévale. / The thesis comprises a monographic, analytic and transdisciplinary study of the medieval paintings with religious subject matters in the Susa valley (Piedmont). This area is densely populated and travelled, particularly during the long end of the Middle Ages between the XIVth and XVIth centuries, as it is one of the main thoroughfares through the Alps. Split between two major political entities, Savoy and the Dauphiné Viennois, the valley pertains to the diocese of Turin despite the religious turmoil due to the waldensian presence. Thus it offers a broad view of the complex and fascinating mountain valleys of the western Alps. Its corpus of preserved and documented wall paintings is a substantial material for analysis through cultural depictions with an anthropological approach. By studying distinctive iconographic and stylistic features concurrently with the pluricontextual religious, political, and sociological data, the study aims to analyse cultural stakes of alpine mural depictions. The thesis delves on the one hand into the interactions between territories and powers, the relationships of images with devotional customs. On the other hand the analysis looks into artistic receptions and their links to historical and religious vagaries or spatial settlements. The effects of artist migrations and the broader question of cultural and artistic transference they pertain to are also addressed, for instance through the relationship between central and peripheral sites. The objective of the thesis is indeed to sketch a summary of Susa valley paintings in the end of the Middle Ages, while surveying the issues of the subtly plural alpine cultures and their stakes through medieval murals.

Denna studie beskriver en 3D rekonstruktion av en medeltida kyrka belägen 25 km söder om Växjö. Kyrkan som är byggd under 1200-talet är speciell då den fortfarande har kvar mycket av sitt ursprungliga utseende. Kyrkan har även en välbevarad takkonstruktion som speciellt uppmärksammas i detta arbete. Problemet är dock att konstruktionen i dagsläget är dold bakom ett senare tillbyggt undertak. Syftet och målet med 3D rekonstruktionen är att återskapa kyrkorummet till sitt ursprungliga utseende och jämföra det med det nutida utifrån tre aspekter; ljusinsläpp, rumsupplevelse och rörelsemöjligheter. Resultatet av projektet visade att kyrkorummet var mycket mörkare förr på grund av att endast ett fåtal mindre fönster fanns. Kyrkorummet var däremot mer öppet under 1200-talet då det troligtvis inte fanns någon inredning i kyrkan, samt att det var öppet upp till nock innan undertaket byggts till. Idag har kyrkan fler och större fönster och den är även inredd med bänkar utmed långsidorna, vilket har påverkat rörelsemönstret. Framtida projekt som handlar om äldre kyrkor och konstruktioner kommer att kunna använda studien. Detta genom att behandla den som en riktlinje samt ett stöd för sitt projekt. Denna studien kan också ligga till grund för vidare och mer fördjupande studier inom detta område, då 3D-modellen kan användas till bland annat VR-teknik. Användning av VR-teknik kan möjliggöra för människor att uppleva det ursprungliga kyrkorummet precis som om de vore på plats. / This study is describing a 3D reconstruction of a medieval church located 25 kilometers south of Växjö. The church is very special as the appearance of the building is still very original. The church also has an unusual roof construction that this project wants to point out. However, the roof structure once visible from the church room, is today hidden by a ceiling which was erected later in an indefinite time. The purpose and goal with the 3D reconstruction is to recreate the original church hall and compare it with the contemporary interior design based on three aspects; experiences of light, - the room in general and the experiences of movement patterns in the church. The result of the project showed that the church hall earlier on was much darker inside due to the lack of windows, but the church hall was on the other hand very spacious in the middle ages because the interior was not furnished during this time. Today the church has received more and larger windows and the hall is furnished with pews and a pulpit, which have led the movement pattern to an aisle from west to east in the middle of the church hall. In future projects, about churches and older constructions, this study can be used as guideline and support for further studies. It is also a study that is open for additional development, as for example the 3D reconstruction can be translated into VRtechnology, so that people can experience the medieval church as it was in the 13th century, almost like they were there.