Revenant incessamment au cœur de l’actualité, la question du made in suscite l’intérêt du monde académique depuis plusieurs décennies. Pourtant, la mondialisation et les pratiques commerciales favorisent un environnement de consommation peu propice à une prise en compte volontaire de cette information. En décalage avec cette réalité, de nombreux travaux s’inscrivent encore dans le cadre du paradigme d’un individu rationnel et des modèles cognitifs de traitement délibéré de l’information. L’objectif de cette recherche est de contribuer à une meilleure connaissance des effets du made in dans un contexte de consommation plus naturel.Notre revue critique de la littérature illustre la prédominance d’approches avant tout cognitives, malgré l’apparition d’éléments de nature affective à l’origine de débats invitant à un changement de paradigme. Prenant la mesure de l’importance d’un affect chronique associé au pays d’origine, nous nous appuyons sur le modèle de contenu des stéréotypes et sur la théorie des niveaux de représentation pour développer nos hypothèses de recherche, mettant en exergue les effets combinés des associations affectives et cognitives avec le pays, ses produits ou ses ressortissants, sur l’évaluation du produit par les consommateurs.Nous présentons ensuite nos choix expérimentaux, procédons aux contrôles des données collectées, puis rapportons les tests de nos hypothèses et les résultats de nos analyses. Ceux-ci révèlent des effets directs mais aussi indirects de l’affect pays chronique sur les évaluations des produits. Ces effets diffèrent selon la perception par les consommateurs des ressortissants du pays d’origine, et selon leur perception des produits. / As the economy or politics face new challenges, the question of the origin of products often surfaces in the media and becomes a focus of attention. For several decades, academics have studied the effects of origin on consumers’ attitudes towards products. However, globalization and commercial practices contribute to generating an environment unfavorable to full awareness of such information. This leads to a gap between reality and many research studies, still subscribing to the paradigm of a fully rational individual and to cognitive models of deliberate information processing. The objective of this research is to reach a better understanding of how made-in effects occur in a more natural consumption context.We first conduct a critical literature review highlighting prevailing approaches of an essentially cognitive nature, in spite of the emergence of affective elements sparking debates on a paradigm shift. This leads us to recognize the importance of a chronic country-related affect associated to a product’s country of origin. Building on the stereotype content model and the construal level theory, we develop our research hypotheses on the combined effects of affective and cognitive associations to this country, its products and its nationals, on consumers’ evaluations of the product.We then detail our experimental design, proceed to preliminary controls of collected data, and present the tests of our hypotheses and our main results. They reveal both direct and indirect effects of chronic country-related affect on the evaluations of products. These effects differ depending on consumers’ perceptions of the nationals and of the products from the country of origin.

This research paper delves into the integration of artificial intelligence (AI) in the process of user experience (UX) design resulting in more-than-human-made designs. Specifically, the study focuses on the utilization of the text-to-image AI tool, Midjourney. The primary research questions addressed in this paper are twofold: 1) How do AI tools influence the current UX design process of a high-fidelity prototype? and 2) How do more-than-human-made high-fidelity prototypes compare with human-made high-fidelity prototypes in terms of UX? To answer these research questions, a two-method study design was employed. Firstly, two focus groups with in total of 8 designers as participants were formed, with one group utilizing Midjourney to investigate its influence on the design process and to compare the two groups regarding their workwise. The aim was to create two comparable prototypes within a specific e-commerce setting. Secondly, a between-subjects design user study with 32 participants was conducted to test the high-fidelity prototypes and to assess any potential disparities in UX quality between them. The findings regarding the first research question indicate that Midjourney primarily serves as an inspirational tool. Designers were able to harness the AI tool to generate dark mode images, with the final chosen dark mode exemplifying the impact of Midjourney. Additionally, designers attempted to utilize the tool for creating icons. Regarding the second research question, the user study revealed that, despite similar and comparable use cases, there were only minor significant differences in terms of UX quality. The overall scores in System Usability Scale (SUS) and User Experience Questionnaire Plus (UEQ+) did not exhibit any significant disparity. This study suggests that while Midjourney proves to be a useful tool within the design process, its current influence on designers' UX design process and the ultimate performance of the final prototype remains relatively modest. Further research and development may be required to enhance its impact in the field of UX design and the study design should be used to test other AI tools in comparable settings.

M. Tech. (Department of Visual Arts and Design: Fashion, Faculty of Human Sciences), Vaal University of Technology. / Customer satisfaction has proven to be a major determinant on the success or failure of a business. Regrettably, fashion entrepreneurs are not meeting customer expectations because they have problems that are affecting the quality of their work. In order to promote customer satisfaction, fashion entrepreneurs require a master plan that is customer-based. Thus, they could implement customisation of garments to address customers’ concerns. It is, therefore, crucial for home-based fashion entrepreneurs to be aware of their customers’ needs and the factors that affect their satisfaction to boost its levels. Based on this background, it was found necessary to conduct a research study with the aim to determine factors that affect customer satisfaction of custom-made garments produced by home-based fashion entrepreneurs in the Emfuleni Local Municipality. A qualitative study, applying purposive and snowball sampling techniques, was conducted by means of one-on-one interviews. Data saturation guided the study and was reached after nineteen women were interviewed and two more interviews were done to enhance credibility. Analysis of data was conducted applying the six stages of Creswell’s approach of data analysis. During this process four themes emerged and were presented in line with their categories. The study findings revealed that some of the factors that largely influenced customer satisfaction were service quality, product quality, price, value and location. Garment fit and uniqueness were also found to be reasons why participants opted for custom-made garments. However, some of the participating women did not get the satisfaction they were seeking. Their satisfaction was negatively affected by garment quality, lack of communication, missing delivery deadlines and inaccessibility of the entrepreneur. The research outcome provides home-based fashion entrepreneurs with useful information to improve the levels of customer satisfaction.

The routine consumption patterns of ordinary consumers in the first half of the nineteenth century, particularly those in the provinces, have been neglected. This thesis sheds light on this area by investigating one particular commodity, clothing. To undertake this, a range of archival sources, visual evidence and surviving dress relating to the counties of Herefordshire and Worcestershire have been examined. The data has enabled an analysis of the consumption of clothing in different locations within the two counties, including county towns, industrial regions and villages, to be carried out. The results have highlighted the many different methods of clothing supply available to the non-elite consumer, which included shop retailing, itinerant selling, illicit networks and clothing distributed via the Poor Law and charity. The thesis demonstrates firstly that the non-elite consumer could obtain clothing from a variety of outlets, using different acquisition methods. Secondly, it shows that this clothing varied in both style and the way it was manufactured, often depending on the supply network utilised. The thesis questions assumptions about the availability of ready-made clothing, the nature of retailing clothing in rural areas, the decline of hawking and peddling, the non-elite use of clothing shops and non-elite consumers’ relationship with fashion. It emphasizes that non-elite consumers had a complex relationship with their clothing, influenced in part by personal preference, gender, economic circumstances and stage in the life-cycle. This thesis shows the multifarious ways non-elite, provincial consumers acquired and wore their clothing.

In this research, two studies were conducted in order to examine the psychological, social, somatic and educational effects of chronic traumatic experience on Palestinian children over the six years of the Al-Aqsa Intifada (2000-2006). Firstly, a quantitative study was conducted which aimed to explore the long-term effects of war and occupation on the Palestinian children in the Gaza Strip. The sample consisted of 1,137 children aged between ten and 18 years randomly selected from all parts of the Gaza Strip to participate in the study. The participants completed a Checklist of Traumatic Experiences (CTE), a Symptoms of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder Scale (SPTSDS), a Network of Psycho-Social Support (NPSS) and a Personality Assessment Questionnaire (PAQ). This study found that every child in Palestine is likely to have been exposed to at least three traumatic events. Importantly, this study also found that 41% of the participants suffered from Post-Traumatic Stress Disorders (PTSD). This indicates that there are potentially more than 300,000 children in the Gaza Strip in need of psychological, social,and medical services in the areas of rehabilitation and therapeutic treatment. The study revealed that the support of family, friends, relatives, teachers, and spiritual leaders can be of great help. In addition to this, positive traits of personality can reduce the effects of PTSD. Secondly, a qualitative study aimed to explore, in more depth, the moderating factors relating to Palestinian children who have been exposed to chronic traumatic experiences, particularly the children who show low levels of PTSD. The sample consisted of six children interviewed in Arabic by using a semi-structured interview. They were aged between 13-18 years. The participants were selected according to the amount of traumatic events and level of PTSD experienced by the children who took part in the first study. This study found that the moderating factors and levels of influence which protected them from developing PTSD are positive personality traits and ideological commitment, psychosocial support, entertainment and adaptation or acclimatization. This research concluded that having a normal childhood in Palestine is unlikely in the current circumstances and the future psychological well-being of Palestinian children is at risk of being compromised by on-going traumatic experiences.

Du tissu à la peau, de la peau au tissu : dessiner à vif dans la matière est une recherche sur la matière du corps et ses liens au monde. Cette étude est impulsée par une pratique artistique qui explore la peau et le tissu non pas comme seules enveloppes et interfaces, mais comme des matières plastiques à part entière, afin de faire émerger et de révéler de nouvelles approches du corps. A cet effet, j’emploie ciseaux, feutres, encre, aiguilles et fils, pour mettre en œuvre ma propre perception du corps, qui ne s’appréhende pas seulement en termes de modelés, mais en termes de lignes, celles qui se révèlent à mon regard dans l’image corporelle. La quête de la ligne, ou des lignes du corps sont au cœur de cette étude. Il s’agit de questionner l’espace du corps, l’idée d’une frontière entre une intériorité et une extériorité, en interrogeant la création artistique qui s’attache à œuvrer sur la peau et le tissu. Comment la peau et le tissu sont-ils perçus ? Comment et par quels procédés une réciprocité plastique de leurs champs d'actions peut-elle se créer, et interroger la vision du corps humain ? La sociologie, l’anthropologie, l’esthétique, la philosophie, l’histoire de l’art, la danse et la haute-couture, sont des disciplines qui nous permettrons d’affiner notre propos, et dont le point commun réside dans ce que chaque courant de pensée et chaque œuvre étudiée nous renseigneront sur la vision que nous avons du corps vêtu/dévêtu, et la perception qui en résulte. Le point de vue plasticien génère et répond aux interrogations théoriques proposant un espace plastique fait de peau et de tissu, que le spectateur est invité à explorer à son tour. / From fabric to skin, from skin to fabric, drawing into material is a research on the body as material and its links to the outside world. This study is based on an artistic practice that explores skin and fabric not only as envelopes and interfaces, but also as artistic materials, so as to bring forth and reveal new approaches of the body. In this regard, I use scissors, felt-tips, inks, needles and thread, to work my own perception of the body, which is not only seen in terms of light and shade but also in terms of lines, those that show themselves to my eyes in the body image. The search for the line, or the lines of the body, is at the heart of this study. Our aim is to question the space of the body, the idea of a border between interior and exterior, whilst interrogating the artistic creation which attempts to work on skin and fabric. How are skin and fabric perceived? How and by which means can an artistic reciprocity of their fields of action be created, to question the vision of the human body? Sociology, anthropology, aesthetics, philosophy, art history, dance and fashion design are some of the fields that will enable us to specify our analysis, and their common point lays in the fact that every currents of thought and every works of art studied here will give us some clues about the vision we have of the dressed/undressed body, and the perception which results from it. The fine artist’s point of view generates and answers some theoretical questions concerning a plastic space made of skin and fabric, that the viewer is invited to explore.

Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2018-08-09T12:33:04Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Antônio Veloso Peleja Júnior.pdf: 1880309 bytes, checksum: 34cf4d43d88c805ab51932534622c8fc (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-09T12:33:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Antônio Veloso Peleja Júnior.pdf: 1880309 bytes, checksum: 34cf4d43d88c805ab51932534622c8fc (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-06-26 / The complaint is a particular legal institute of Brazilian law whose mission is to ensure the jurisdiction and the consolidated understanding of the courts. The new Code of Civil Procedure, considerate on the proposition of these jurisprudential positions and on the "enforcement" of its observance by the court, expanded the operation of the complaint of article 988 assigning it as a guarantor of these understandings, which were qualified as "precedents". The channeling of a considerable number of complaints to higher courts forced, in the name of judicial policy and administration, the generation of atypical solutions to the situation, given the anomy in the discipline of the legal institute and the counter-claim represented by the prevalence of the quantitative aspect over the qualitative one. The transformation of the legal nature of the complaint to meet the demands of higher courts is performed by trampling on some constitutional and infra-constitutional principles, in a rearrangement of competences and appropriateness, which does not conform to the scenario of civil procedural law, recipient of the radiant efficacy of the Federal Constitution. On the other hand, after several years of constitutional and procedural reforms aimed at mitigating the workload of these Courts - which ended up by adjusting them more as thesis reductions than as a decrease of analysis of thousands of concrete cases - the procedural status quo of the complaint meets these changes. Resolutions no. 9/2012 and n. 3/2016 summarize a pool of legal institutes, regulations and judicial policies that should be properly analyzed before having their admission accepted into the Brazilian legal system besides proposing a solution to the status quo judicially constituted / A reclamação é um instituto singular da legislação brasileira cuja missão é garantir a competência e o entendimento consolidado dos tribunais. O Código de Processo Civil, pródigo na enunciação desses posicionamentos jurisprudenciais e na anunciação da “obrigatoriedade” de sua observação por parte do julgador, expandiu o manejo da reclamação no artigo 988, destinando-a como móvel fiador desses entendimentos, adjetivados como “precedentes”. A canalização de um número considerável de reclamações junto aos tribunais superiores forçou, em nome da política e da administração judiciárias, que se engendrassem soluções atípicas para a situação, em face da anomia na disciplina do instituto e do contrassenso representado pela predominância do aspecto quantitativo sobre o qualitativo. A mutação da natureza jurídica da reclamação para atender aos reclamos das cortes superiores é realizada atropelando alguns princípios constitucionais e infraconstitucionais, em um rearranjo de competências e cabimento, que não se amolda ao cenário do direito processual civil, destinatário da eficácia irradiante da Constituição Federal. Em contrapartida, após vários anos de reformas constitucionais e processuais com o objetivo de aliviar a carga de trabalho dessas cortes e de adaptá-las mais como cortes de teses e menos como cortes de análise de milhares de casos concretos, o status quo procedimental da reclamação vai ao encontro às referidas mudanças. As resoluções 9/2012 e 3/2016 condensam um pool de institutos, regramentos e política judiciária que precisam ser bem analisados para que se possa chegar a uma conclusão segura acerca de sua admissão no ordenamento jurídico brasileiro, além de propor uma solução para o status quo construído judicialmente

P-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) is a polymorphic compound with two known polymorphs - alpha with a needle morphology and β with a rhombic morphology. It is an enantiotropic compound with a transition temperature at 13.8oC, where alpha is more thermodynamically stable above transition temperature and β is more thermodynamically stable below. At the beginning of this project, crash-cooling crystallisation experiments were conducted to determine the effect of solvent, temperature and supersaturation on the nucleating polymorphs of PABA. Three solvents were tested (water, ethanol and isopropyl alcohol) over a range of supersaturations and temperatures. The results suggested that polymorph appearance of PABA was heavily influenced by kinetics, as opposed to thermodynamics of the system, disagreeing with Ostwald's rule of stages. The project then focussed on the ability of tailor-made additives to select the crystallising polymorph of PABA from supersaturated solutions of PABA in isopropyl alcohol. Crash-cooling crystallisation experiments were performed using two additives: 4-amino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, and 4-amino-3-methoxybenzoic acid. Results showed that alpha PABA crystallised below a critical concentration of either additive, and above that critical concentration, β PABA would crystallise. To determine whether the additives were affecting the nucleation and/or growth kinetics of alpha PABA and β PABA, a series of nucleation and growth experiments were conducted using a Crystal16 multiple stirred reactor and a crystal growth cell respectively. The results showed that both additives greatly reduced the attachment frequency of growth units to alpha PABA nuclei, and inhibited the growth rate of alpha PABA seed crystals. Nucleation data could not be obtained for β PABA, but in terms of crystal growth, both additives did not affect growth rate of β PABA to a noticeable degree. Gravimetric and HPLC experiments were also employed to measure the solubility effects of both additives on PABA in isopropyl alcohol. Results showed that both additives did not appear to affect PABA's solubility to a noticeable degree.

This research addresses life cycle environmental and economic sustainability in the baby food sector. In the UK, this sector has been growing rapidly, expanding by around 30% between 2009 and 2014, by which time it was worth an estimated £181 million per year. This growth sits within a context of high emissions from the food sector: in 2015, UK net GHG emissions were estimated to be 496 million tonnes (Mt) and the domestic food chain was responsible for 115 Mt CO2 eq. emissions. However, within this overall food chain, very little is known about the sustainability of the baby food sector, with almost no prior literature in the area. The research presented here begins with market research to identify the characteristics of products available in the ready-made food market, in which wet and dry products in jars and pouches dominate sales. Subsequently, 12 representative products are selected from those available on the market and each is assessed in detail to establish its environmental and economic impacts using life cycle assessment (LCA), life cycle costing (LCC) and value added (VA) assessment. The findings of these product-level assessments are then compared to home-made equivalents and finally scaled up according to sales volumes to provide an overall view of the baby food sector as a whole. Wet and dry variants of ready-made porridge products are assessed first as the most commonly consumed breakfast option. The dry product is shown to have 5%-70% the impacts of the wet, on average, and the importance of product formulation is clear: for dry porridge, reformulation could reduce impacts by up to 67%. For the wet porridge, switching from glass jars to plastic pouches is also shown to decrease impacts by up to 89%. Assessment of 11 wet ready-made products demonstrates that the highest impacts are found in spaghetti Bolognese and salmon risotto, and that raw materials are the major hotspot of the life cycle, contributing 12-69%, followed by manufacturing at 2-49%. When combined into a range of weekly diets limited differences are observed between diets, except in cases where dairy-free diets result in compensatory increases in meat consumption. When the aforementioned selection of ready-made products is compared to its home-made equivalent, the home-made options are shown to have lower impacts by 50% to 17 times. This is due to the avoidance of manufacturing and extra packaging stages, as well as shorter supply chains resulting in less waste overall. At the product level, the LCC of ready-made meals ranges from £0.08 to £0.26 per 125 g product, compared to £0.02-£0.20 for the home-made equivalents. Value added is, on average, approximately four times higher for ready-made meals than homemade, illustrating the potential profit of the sector. Annually, the ready-made baby food sector has an LCC of £40m and carbon footprint of 109 kt CO2 eq. This carbon footprint represents only 0.1% of the UK food and drinks sector. The results of this research show that considerable improvements can be made to the environmental and economic sustainability of baby foods, both ready- and homemade, while home-made options tend to have lower costs and environmental impacts. The outputs provide benchmarking and improvement opportunities for industry and government, as well as insight for consumers.

Práce se zaměřuje na značky kvality potravin, které dokládají, že kvality byla ověřena třetí (nezávislou) stranou. Konkrétně jsou zmiňovány značky Klasa, Czech made, Tesco, Metro Quality a Bio-Produkt ekologického zemědělství. V teoretické části jsou příslušné značky charakterizovány (jsou uvedeny podmínky jejich udělení, grafická podoba, apod.). Praktická část práce vychází z dotazníkového šetření mezi spotřebiteli různých demografických charakteristik a ukazuje, jaká je znalost značek kvality potravin a vůbec vnímání kvality.