Recent years have witnessed the increasing popularity of second-hand clothing (SHC) worldwide. In the developed countries, consumers show more willingness to accept SHC and the SHC market is relatively mature. In China, consumers’ attitudes towards SHC is always somewhat negative for many reasons. However, nowadays more Chinese young consumers have intentions to buy SHC partly because they want to follow the global fashion trend or to sustain the environment. To recycle and reuse waste textiles, some regulations have been issued by the Chinese government, but restrictions are still put on trading SHC and it is far from enough to formulate a perfect SHC market. The emergence of online platforms such as Idle Fish and Zhuan Zhuan stimulate the potential market and provide a new channel for trading SHC.As reducing clothing production and waste is one of the solutions to alleviate environmental burden in China, it is necessary to improve Chinese consumers’ buying behavior of SHC. This investigation is concentrated on Chinese young consumers, to gain an insight of how they think of SHC and what factors will influence their purchase behavior. A mixed method was applied in this investigation, which included the semi-structured interview and the self-completion questionnaire. Respondents are mostly from Shanghai and Shandong province, aged between 18 to 24 years old. Factors affecting Chinese young consumers’ buying behavior were assessed in three dimensions: perceived concerns, perceived values and subjective norm. When analyzing the data, comparisons between genders or districts were made. It could be observed that three words ‘unsanitary’, ‘cheap’ and ‘eco-friendly’ are used most by Chinese young consumers to express their views on SHC. Among all the factors, hygiene and safety problem is the biggest concern to a majority of Chinese young consumers. Although SHC is not prevailing in China now, it is likely for them to buy it in the future if platforms can be improved and trading SHC can be supported by the government. Since possible ways of improving buying behavior are only given through Chinese young consumers’ perspective, they should be examined from platform operators’ and government’s point of view in the future research.

One of the understudied geographies of the world economy is the large-scale export of second-hand clothing form the global North to Africa. The consumption and re-use 0 clothing traces a transnational gradient of inequality between the rich and poor. This thesis examines the (re )production of second-hand clothing commodities in Britain, the international economic geographies of the used-clothing trade and the labour activities of African market traders. Coordinated and non-integrated patterns of trade are investigated through a theoretical approach which draws upon Fine's 'system of provision' analysis from heterodox economics and connects this to existing commodity studies approaches in geography. Within global second-hand clothing networks there are differential power relations between charities, companies and individuals. The socially and historically embedded roles of British charities and firms in the collection, processing and export of second-hand clothing are introduced. This is connected to the main empirical exploration of the downstream social and economic impacts of second- hand clothing imports in Africa. Linkages are made across the new and used clothing sectors and in the relationships between the decline of clothing industries across Africa, economic liberalisation and the growth of used-clothing imports. Patterns of import are investigated, with specific reference to Mozambique, where Indian merchants control distribution. Second-hand clothing markets are widespread in African urban centres and retail activities in Maputo are examined in-depth drawing upon twelve months of ethnographic research. Through specific social formations market traders have precarious livelihoods. Incomes do not provide opportunities for Mozambicans to progress out of poverty. By examining different processes at various locations in the international economy, it is demonstrated how it is not second-hand clothes which create economic relationships, but definite social relations between people.

This study looks to better understand Swedish consumer purchasing intentions in the online second-hand clothing industry. This study examines factors affecting consumers’ intentions to purchase second-hand clothing online, as well as investigating how gender and a person’s general fashion involvement affects their purchasing intention. / Program: Textile Management, Fashion Management

Do second-hand clothing donations ‘do good?’ Thrift stores promote the message that second-hand clothing (SHC) donations ‘do good’ when they solicit donations from individuals. I argue that this narrative of ‘doing good’ overemphasizes the social and economic value of donated clothes and conceals the negative aspects of overconsumption and the problems associated with the commercial export of SHC. The aim of this thesis is to better understand the relationship between fast fashion, clothing consumption and disposal patterns, and the global trade in SHC donations by examining what motivates individuals to donate SHC to thrift stores, and how thrift stores are linked to the international trade in SHC. I began to map SHC donations from households to thrift stores. I used a global production network (GPN) framework to examine the social, political, and economic relations that contribute to how value is created, increased, and extracted in this commodity chain. Using a case study approach, I conducted 30 interviews with individuals who donated used clothing and I conducted research at four different thrift stores that sell SHC in Victoria, BC. / Graduate / 2020-04-17

ABSTRACT  Background: Second-hand clothing has significantly continued to generate interest both in research and in the real world and emphasis ofexisting works revolve around history, motivations for buying and effect on the environment as well as the impact on the countries that these second-hand clothes are imported. Consumers’ demographics is expected to play a role in their intention to purchase certain goods including clothes and findings also revealed that people have begun to incorporate sustainability in their intention to purchase second-hand clothing. Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the impact of demographic variables and sustainability awareness on the consumers’ purchase intention on second-hand clothing. In other words, to investigate if statistical relationships exist between gender, age, income, educational level and sustainability awareness on the intention to purchase second-hand clothing. Method: This research was conducted through a quantitative method and five hypotheses were formulated based on the theory. An online survey was developed and shared through social media and sample of 111 respondents was generated. These responses were analysed through Excel and SPSS. Conclusion: Findings showed that none of the variables influenced consumers’ intention to purchase second-hand clothing. Implications: Business men can take advantage of this study to position their businesses using this findings to intensify their strategies since intention to purchase second-hand clothing has no relationship with gender, age, income, educational level and sustainability awareness. It also brought to light the level of sustainability awareness of the people and the need for the government to promote it. Originality: This work was the first to examine how demographic variables and sustainability awareness impact purchase intention on second-hand clothing in Nigeria. This contributes to existing second-hand clothing literature which is capable of inspiring comparative study and can also be useful for business decision.

This project deals with the potential interaction design that can create ways for fast-fashion consumers toward using second-hand clothing. Through contextual inquiries, main insights were used to guide the prototyping. This led to creating Vintage Block, an app and in-store experience consisting of three different ideas. The first one is a raffle that inspires more people to give quality items to the store for a chance to win the monthly premium item. This is in hopes of receiving a wider variety of sizes and styles from the customers. Secondly, the use of upcycling to customize through the app as well as through QR codes on items at the store. That aims to incentivize customers to download the app and potentially fulfill their shopping needs. Thirdly, an online shopping experience through the app where there is no shipping option to promote sustainable behavior and lower transportation emissions.

Många av de miljöproblem som finns idag går att koppla till produktion-och konsumtionsvanor. Att konsumera på ett hållbart sätt är vitalt för att ett samhälle ska kunna försörja framtida generationer utan att förbruka jordens resurser helt. Unga vuxna har en viktig roll att spela när det kommer till att utveckla samhället i en miljömässigt hållbar riktning. Hur de väljer att konsumera har och kommer ha stor påverkan på miljön. Att köpa kläder på second hand är ett sätt att bedriva en mer hållbar konsumtion, då det både är resurssparande och ofta ekonomsikt fördelaktigt. Denna studie ämnar undersöka unga vuxnas attityder till just second hand-kläder. Resultatet visade att majoriteten av respondenterna anser att second hand-kläder är någonting bra i avseende på pris och mindre miljöpåverkan, samtidigt som de även upplevde det som någonting ohygieniskt. De flesta hade aldrig köpt second hand-kläder tidigare, även då resultatet visar att majoriteten skulle kunna tänka sig att göra det. Miljö och kläder var en koppling som inte tydligt gjordes av respondenterna, då många aldrig tar hänsyn till miljön vid klädkonsumtion och många inte visste hur klädkonsumtion påverkar miljön. Viss medvetenhet kring miljöproblem generellt kunde tolkas av resultatet, vilket tyder på att de unga vuxna är medvetna om miljöproblem men inte nödvändigtvis vilka miljökonsekvenser just klädkonsumtionen har. Hur omgivningen uppfattar second hand-kläder påverkade också respondenternas inställning. För att få fler unga vuxna att välja second hand-kläder framför nyproducerade kläder krävs förändrade attityder och normer, vilka är avgörande för konsumtionsbeteendet. Vidare krävs mer kunskapsspridning om relationen kläder-miljö. Individer som förstå hur det är sammankopplat ges verktygen att aktivt kunna göra hållbara konsumtionsval. / Many of the environmental problems that exist today can be linked to production and consumption habits. To consume in a sustainable manner is vital for a society to be able to support future generations without depleting the earth's resources. Young adults have an important role to play when it comes to social development in an environmentally sustainable direction. How they choose to consume has and will have a major impact on the environment. To buy clothes at a second hand store is one way to engage in a more sustainable consumption, since it is both resource-saving and often financial favorable. This study aimed to examine young adults' attitudes to second hand clothing consumption. The results showed that the majority of the respondents believe that second-hand clothing is something good in terms of price and less environmental impact, while they also experienced it as something unhygienic. Most of them had never bought second-hand clothes previously, but the result shows that the majority would be willing to. Environment and clothes is a connection that was not clearly made by the respondents, since many seldom takes into account the environment when shopping for clothes and many did not know how clothing consumption affects the environment. Some awareness about environmental problems in general could be interpreted by the result, which indicates that the young adults are aware of environmental problems but not necessarily which environmental consequences clothing consumption has. How the surroundings perceive second-hand clothes also affected the respondents' attitudes. To get more young adults to choose second-hand clothes rather than new clothes requires a change in attitudes and norms, which is crucial for consumer behavior. It also requires more education about the clothing-environment relationship. Individuals who understand how it is connected are given the tools to actively make sustainable consumption choices.

Denna studie syftar till att skapa en djupare förståelse för hur kvinnliga studenter uppfattar att opinionsledare påverkar deras klädkonsumtion. Studien undersöker varför den utvalda målgruppen väljer att avstå från att konsumera secondhandkläder. Detta är av intresse med tanke på den ökade medvetenheten om klädindustrins negativa miljöpåverkan och den ökade populariteten av att köpa secondhandkläder. Det är väsentligt att undersöka detta utifrån opinionsledare, då det kan ha en inverkan gällande människors konsumtion. För att uppnå syftet med studien har tre frågeställningar utformats. Den första frågeställningen är gällande vilka faktorer kvinnliga studenter uppfattar påverkar deras beslut gällande klädkonsumtion. Den andra frågeställningen undersöker hur de uppfattar att opinionsledare har en inverkan på deras värderingar samt identitet. Den tredje frågeställningen är vad det finns för samband mellan kvinnliga studenters opinionsledare och deras val att avstå från att konsumera secondhandkläder. Studiens metod innefattar en kvalitativ undersökning i form av intervjuer som har transkriberats, kodats och strukturerats utifrån en tematisk analys. Studiens deltagare innefattar åtta kvinnliga heltidsstudenter som inte konsumerar secondhandkläder. Resultatet har analyserats utifrån två teorier: tvåstegshypotesen och mål-medel-kedjan. Studiens resultat visar att de främsta faktorerna som målgruppen uppfattar påverkar deras klädköp är ekonomi, sociala medier och marknadsföring. Kvinnliga studenter uppfattar att opinionsledare kan ha en viss inverkan både gällande värderingar och identitet. Resultatet visar även att det finns flera samband mellan kvinnliga studenters opinionsledare och deras val att inte konsumera secondhandkläder, exempelvis åsikter och värderingar gällande secondhandkläder. / This study aims to create a deeper understanding of how female students perceive that opinion leaders influence their clothing consumption. The study investigates why the selected target group chooses not to consume second hand clothing. This is of interest considering the increased awareness of the clothing industry's negative environmental impact and the increased popularity of buying second hand clothes. It is essential to investigate this based on opinion leaders, as it can have an impact on people's consumption. To achieve the purpose of the study, three questions have been formulated. The first question is about which factors female students perceive influence their decisions regarding clothing consumption. Question two is about how they perceive that opinion leaders have an impact on their values and identity. The third question concerns what kind of connection there is between female students' opinion leaders and their choice to refrain from consuming second hand clothes. The study's method is based on a qualitative investigation in the form of interviews that have been transcribed, coded and structured based on a thematic analysis. The target group includes eight female full-time-students who do not consume second-hand clothing. The result has been analyzed based on two theories: two-step flow and means-end chain. The study's results show that the main factors that the target group indicated influence their clothing purchases are finance, social media and marketing. Female students perceive that opinion leaders can have a certain influence on both values and identity. The results also show that there are several connections between female students' opinion leaders and their choice not to consume second hand clothes, for example opinions and values regarding second hand clothes.

This study aims to investigate young adults' attitudes towards consumption of second hand clothing, and examine what motivates young adults to increase their consumption of second hand clothing. Furthermore, we want to investigate consumption behaviour of young adults, in order to highlight the behaviour changes that are required to achieve sustainable consumption behaviour. This study is based on a qualitative method in which focus groups interviews were applied. The empirical data has been processed by a thematically analysis based on the themes that constitutes the framework for the study. The result shows that the respondents claim that range of clothing, location, related role models and financial incentives motivates consumption of second hand clothing. However, words and action do not correspond, when the result clearly shows that habits and behaviour patterns are the main barriers to change consumption behaviour. Our study aims to deepen the science affecting young adults' attitudes towards consumption of second hand clothing. / Denna studie syftar till att undersöka unga vuxnas inställning till konsumtion av secondhand-kläder samt undersöka vad som motiverar dem att öka sin konsumtion av secondhand-kläder. Vidare vill vi undersöka konsumtionsbeteendet hos unga vuxna för att synliggöra de beteendeförändringar som krävs för att uppnå ett hållbart konsumtionsbeteende. Denna studie är baserad på en kvalitativ metod där fokusgruppsintervjuer tillämpats. Empirin har sedan bearbetats genom tillämpning av tematisk analys, utifrån de teman som utgör ramverket för studien. Resultatet visar att respondenterna hävdar att utbud av kläder i secondhand-butiker, lokalisering, närstående förebilder samt ekonomiska incitament motiverar till konsumtion av secondhand-kläder. Dock överensstämmer inte ord med handling då resultatet tydligt visar att vanor och invanda beteendemönster är de främsta barriärerna för att förändra ett konsumtionsbeteende. Vår studie ämnar fördjupa kunskapen i området som berör unga vuxnas inställning samt motivation till konsumtion av secondhand-kläder.

[pt] A indústria têxtil apresenta grande relevância na economia brasileira, ocupando a quarta posição de maior produtor de denim do mundo e a maior cadeia têxtil completa do ocidente, segundo a Associação Brasileira da Indústria Têxtil e Confecção (2018). Por outro lado, trata-se de uma das indústrias mais poluentes no mundo e apresenta cerca de 500 bilhões de dólar ao ano de descarte de roupas não recicladas, de acordo com o relatório da Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). Neste contexto, formas de consumo alternativo têm ganhado força transformando os espaços de brechós em importantes marketplaces para disposição e reuso. A presente pesquisa buscou investigar os significados envolvidos no consumo de vestuário de segunda mão, contribuindo para uma reflexão acerca dos sentidos, crenças e valores que promovem ou restringem escolhas por estes objetos. Os dados foram coletados por meio de observação participante e de entrevistas individuais com dezoito consumidores, em três brechós da cidade do Rio de Janeiro. Foi utilizada a perspectiva teóricometodológica da semiótica discursiva de linha francesa, por meio do modelo da Axiologia do Consumo de Floch (1993), e Análise de Conteúdo para analisar os temas identificados nos discursos dos consumidores. Nos resultados da análise, destacam-se os rituais de consumo e questões relativas à sociabilidade e ao estilo de vida dos sujeitos. Há, também, pontos dissonantes em relação ao conceito de sustentabilidade, indicando oportunidades para marcas e gestores de brechós aperfeiçoarem suas estratégias de negócios sustentáveis. As narrativas dos consumidores alternam e, por vezes, conjugam valores críticos, práticos e utópicos da Axiologia de Floch (1993). / [en] The textil industry has great relevance in the Brazilian economy, occupying the fourth position of largest producer of denim in the world and the largest complete têxtil industry of the west, according to the Brazilian Association of the Textile and Clothing Industry (2018). On the other hand, it is one of the most polluting industries in the world and presents more than 500 billion dollar a year of disposing of non-recycled clothes, according to the report of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). In this context, alternative forms of consumption have gained strength, transforming the thrift store spaces into important marketplaces for disposal and reuse. This research investigated the meanings involved in the consumption of second-hand clothing, contributing to a reflection on the meanings, beliefs and values that promote or restrict some choices for these objects. Data were collected through participant observation and individual interviews with eighteen consumers, in three thrift stores located in the city of Rio de Janeiro. The theoretical-methodological perspective of French discursive semiotics and the model of Axiology of Consumption by Floch (1993) were used to analyze the themes identified in consumers speeches. In the results of the analysis, the consumption rituals and issues related to the subjects sociability and lifestyle stand out. There are also dissonant points in relation to the concept of sustainability, indicating opportunities for brands and managers of thrift stores to improve their sustainable business strategies. Consumer narratives alternate and sometimes combine critical, practical and utopian values from Floch s Axiology (1993).