A paradigm shift has taken place in identity formation as the society7 is moving towards to be more digitized. Previous research shows that young people use social media and its opinion leaders, called influencers, to a large extent as a tool to create their own identity. One way to express identity is through clothing and today the fast fashion industry has digital marketing strategies in shape of collaborations with influencers to reach consumers. Young women are, above all, the target group that both spends time and is most affected by social media, which makes them easily fall for the consumerism of clothing that influencers encourage. The fashion industry is an industry that has an extensive climate impact where emissions of greenhouse gas, chemicals and the use of resources have major negative consequences for the world. Statistics specifically indicate that young women have a high environmental awareness in form of strong sustainable values, while this group in the meantime also having a tendency to be affected to consume. The purpose of this study is to investigate young women's identity formation via Instagram and how they position themselves in their identity formation regarding both clothing consumption and environmental awareness. This study was conducted in accordance with a qualitative approach where the data material was obtained through interviews with four focus groups. The method has been chosen to study how the respondents argue while being a part of a group. The data has been analyzed through a developed analytical model based on a thematization of selected identity theories. The study's findings and conclusions indicates that young women are generally unplanned and materialistic in their clothing consumption despite a general or high environmental awareness. However, a greater interest in fashion tends to lead to increased environmental awareness in the consumption of clothing. The perception of the importance of clothing for identity formation affects how different patterns of consumption develop where those with a high opinion are less materialistic and impulsive and vice versa. Influencers' impact on young women’s identity formation vary and is based on the intention to follow a profile, where those who intend to follow fashion-based profiles are more affected than those who follow lifestyle influencers. This study is written in swedish. / Ett paradigmskifte har skett inom identitetsskapande i takt med att samhället går mot att bli allt mer digitaliserat. Tidigare forskning visar på att unga individer i stor utsträckning använder sociala medier och dessa plattformars opinionsledare, kallade influencers, som verktyg för att skapa sin egen identitet. Ett sätt att uttrycka sin identitet på är genom kläder och fast fashion industrin har idag digitala marknadsföringsstrategier i form av samarbeten med influencers för att nå ut till konsumenter. Unga kvinnor är den målgrupp som både spenderar tid och påverkas av sociala medier allra mest, vilket gör att de lätt faller för den konsumtionshets som influencers uppmuntrar till. Modeindustrin är en bransch som har en omfattande miljöpåverkan där utsläpp av avgaser, kemikalier och användning av resurser medför stora negativa konsekvenser för miljön. Statistik visar specifikt på att unga kvinnor besitter en stor miljömedvetenhet i form av starka hållbara värderingar, samtidigt som de haren benägenhet att påverkas i sin konsumtion. Syftet med studien är att undersöka unga kvinnors identitetsskapande via influencers på Instagram och hur de ställer sig till sittidentitetsskapande med hänsyn till både konsumtion av kläder samt miljömedvetenhet. Undersökningen har skett i enlighet med ett kvalitativt förhållningssätt där datamaterialet harinhämtats via intervjuer med fyra fokusgrupper. Metoden har valts för att studera hur respondenterna i egenskap av grupp för ett resonemang. Datamaterialet har analyserats genomen framarbetad analysmodell som baseras på en tematisering av valda identitetsteorier. Studiens resultat och slutsatser indikerar på att unga kvinnor generellt är oplanerade och materialistiska i sin klädkonsumtion trots en allmän eller hög miljömedvetenhet. Ett större intresse för mode tenderar emellertid att leda till en ökad miljömedvetenhet vid konsumtionav kläder. Uppfattningen om hur stor betydelse kläder hade för identitetsskapandet påverkar hur olika konsumtionsmönster utvecklas där de med hög uppfattning är mindre materialistiska tillika impulsiva och vice versa. Influencers påverkan på unga kvinnors identitetsskapandevarierar utifrån vilken intention som ligger bakom att följa dessa där de som avser att följa modebaserade influencers påverkas mer än de som följer livsstilsinfluencers.

O presente estudo investigou se há diferenças nas avaliações das consumidoras em relação à compra de roupa no ambiente online de acordo com a geração que pertencem. Buscou-se identificar se a preferência pela experiência de compra proporcionada pela loja física dificulta a escolha do canal virtual, também foi pesquisado sobre o impacto da falta de interação com o produto nas lojas virtuais e quais são os fatores que influenciam cada geração ao optar em comprar roupas pela internet. Para tanto, foi desenvolvido uma pesquisa de abordagem quantitativa, utilizando o método survey para coleta de dados no qual se aplicou um questionário online. Os resultados obtidos por meio de uma análise estatística multivariada demonstraram que, quanto mais velha a geração, menor é a utilização da internet para este tipo de compra, mas ao avaliar os motivos dentro os quais nunca compraram, mesmo aquelas consumidoras que já estão habituadas com o ambiente online para realizar outras tarefas de sua rotina, a impossibilidade de provar os produtos é realmente um impeditivo para esse tipo de compra. Notou-se que embora a Geração Y esteja mais conectada, os motivos pelos quais não compram roupa em lojas virtuais se assemelham aos das Gerações X e Baby Boomer. Entretanto, há aquelas consumidoras que valorizam a praticidade, a comodidade em comprar sem sair de casa e utilizam o canal virtual. A principal diferença no processo de escolha é que as gerações mais velhas utilizam com mais frequência as ferramentas disponíveis nas lojas virtuais para minimizar a distância do produto, como zoom nas fotos para analisar detalhes e tabela de medidas para conferir a numeração das peças / The present study investigated whether there are differences in consumers\' evaluations regarding the purchase of clothing in the online environment according to the generation they belong to. We tried to identify if the preference for the shopping experience offered by the brick and mortar store made it difficult to choose the virtual channel, we also investigated the impact of the lack of interaction with the product in the virtual stores and what are the factors that influence each generation when opting to buy clothes over the internet. For that, a quantitative approach research was developed, using the survey method for data collection in which an online questionnaire was applied. The results obtained through a multivariate statistical analysis showed that the older the generation, the lower the use of the Internet for this type of purchase, but in evaluating the reasons for which they never bought, even for the consumers who are already used to the online environment to perform other routine tasks, the inability to try on the products is really an impediment to this type of purchase. It was possible to observe that although Generation Y is more connected, the reasons why they do not buy clothes in virtual stores resemble those of Generations X and Baby Boomer. However, there are those consumers who value the practicality, the convenience in buying without leaving home and use the virtual channel. The main difference in the process of choice is that older generations are more likely to use the tools available in virtual stores to minimize product distance, such as zooming in on photos to analyze details and measurement tables to check the numbering of the items

Många av de miljöproblem som finns idag går att koppla till produktion-och konsumtionsvanor. Att konsumera på ett hållbart sätt är vitalt för att ett samhälle ska kunna försörja framtida generationer utan att förbruka jordens resurser helt. Unga vuxna har en viktig roll att spela när det kommer till att utveckla samhället i en miljömässigt hållbar riktning. Hur de väljer att konsumera har och kommer ha stor påverkan på miljön. Att köpa kläder på second hand är ett sätt att bedriva en mer hållbar konsumtion, då det både är resurssparande och ofta ekonomsikt fördelaktigt. Denna studie ämnar undersöka unga vuxnas attityder till just second hand-kläder. Resultatet visade att majoriteten av respondenterna anser att second hand-kläder är någonting bra i avseende på pris och mindre miljöpåverkan, samtidigt som de även upplevde det som någonting ohygieniskt. De flesta hade aldrig köpt second hand-kläder tidigare, även då resultatet visar att majoriteten skulle kunna tänka sig att göra det. Miljö och kläder var en koppling som inte tydligt gjordes av respondenterna, då många aldrig tar hänsyn till miljön vid klädkonsumtion och många inte visste hur klädkonsumtion påverkar miljön. Viss medvetenhet kring miljöproblem generellt kunde tolkas av resultatet, vilket tyder på att de unga vuxna är medvetna om miljöproblem men inte nödvändigtvis vilka miljökonsekvenser just klädkonsumtionen har. Hur omgivningen uppfattar second hand-kläder påverkade också respondenternas inställning. För att få fler unga vuxna att välja second hand-kläder framför nyproducerade kläder krävs förändrade attityder och normer, vilka är avgörande för konsumtionsbeteendet. Vidare krävs mer kunskapsspridning om relationen kläder-miljö. Individer som förstå hur det är sammankopplat ges verktygen att aktivt kunna göra hållbara konsumtionsval. / Many of the environmental problems that exist today can be linked to production and consumption habits. To consume in a sustainable manner is vital for a society to be able to support future generations without depleting the earth's resources. Young adults have an important role to play when it comes to social development in an environmentally sustainable direction. How they choose to consume has and will have a major impact on the environment. To buy clothes at a second hand store is one way to engage in a more sustainable consumption, since it is both resource-saving and often financial favorable. This study aimed to examine young adults' attitudes to second hand clothing consumption. The results showed that the majority of the respondents believe that second-hand clothing is something good in terms of price and less environmental impact, while they also experienced it as something unhygienic. Most of them had never bought second-hand clothes previously, but the result shows that the majority would be willing to. Environment and clothes is a connection that was not clearly made by the respondents, since many seldom takes into account the environment when shopping for clothes and many did not know how clothing consumption affects the environment. Some awareness about environmental problems in general could be interpreted by the result, which indicates that the young adults are aware of environmental problems but not necessarily which environmental consequences clothing consumption has. How the surroundings perceive second-hand clothes also affected the respondents' attitudes. To get more young adults to choose second-hand clothes rather than new clothes requires a change in attitudes and norms, which is crucial for consumer behavior. It also requires more education about the clothing-environment relationship. Individuals who understand how it is connected are given the tools to actively make sustainable consumption choices.

O presente estudo investigou se há diferenças nas avaliações das consumidoras em relação à compra de roupa no ambiente online de acordo com a geração que pertencem. Buscou-se identificar se a preferência pela experiência de compra proporcionada pela loja física dificulta a escolha do canal virtual, também foi pesquisado sobre o impacto da falta de interação com o produto nas lojas virtuais e quais são os fatores que influenciam cada geração ao optar em comprar roupas pela internet. Para tanto, foi desenvolvido uma pesquisa de abordagem quantitativa, utilizando o método survey para coleta de dados no qual se aplicou um questionário online. Os resultados obtidos por meio de uma análise estatística multivariada demonstraram que, quanto mais velha a geração, menor é a utilização da internet para este tipo de compra, mas ao avaliar os motivos dentro os quais nunca compraram, mesmo aquelas consumidoras que já estão habituadas com o ambiente online para realizar outras tarefas de sua rotina, a impossibilidade de provar os produtos é realmente um impeditivo para esse tipo de compra. Notou-se que embora a Geração Y esteja mais conectada, os motivos pelos quais não compram roupa em lojas virtuais se assemelham aos das Gerações X e Baby Boomer. Entretanto, há aquelas consumidoras que valorizam a praticidade, a comodidade em comprar sem sair de casa e utilizam o canal virtual. A principal diferença no processo de escolha é que as gerações mais velhas utilizam com mais frequência as ferramentas disponíveis nas lojas virtuais para minimizar a distância do produto, como zoom nas fotos para analisar detalhes e tabela de medidas para conferir a numeração das peças / The present study investigated whether there are differences in consumers\' evaluations regarding the purchase of clothing in the online environment according to the generation they belong to. We tried to identify if the preference for the shopping experience offered by the brick and mortar store made it difficult to choose the virtual channel, we also investigated the impact of the lack of interaction with the product in the virtual stores and what are the factors that influence each generation when opting to buy clothes over the internet. For that, a quantitative approach research was developed, using the survey method for data collection in which an online questionnaire was applied. The results obtained through a multivariate statistical analysis showed that the older the generation, the lower the use of the Internet for this type of purchase, but in evaluating the reasons for which they never bought, even for the consumers who are already used to the online environment to perform other routine tasks, the inability to try on the products is really an impediment to this type of purchase. It was possible to observe that although Generation Y is more connected, the reasons why they do not buy clothes in virtual stores resemble those of Generations X and Baby Boomer. However, there are those consumers who value the practicality, the convenience in buying without leaving home and use the virtual channel. The main difference in the process of choice is that older generations are more likely to use the tools available in virtual stores to minimize product distance, such as zooming in on photos to analyze details and measurement tables to check the numbering of the items

Consumers can shape social environments through their clothing and thereby influence the perception of clothing consumption. However, the human desire of belonging and connectedness within a consumer culture has led to the severity of overconsumption. This is particularly apparent in the dynamic and trend-sensitive field of clothing. Such acts of consumption have a strong impact on the transformation of the Earth’s climatic condition. Nevertheless, global environmental issues are often an elusive picture of the climate crisis what makes it difficult for individuals to associate own lifestyles to it. To combat this dissonance and with Generation Z as the consumers of change, this study focuses on teachers of upper secondary schools and the ways they can be supported in the education on sustainable clothing consumption. For this, eight specific categories of investigation have been crystallised through the data collection, such as sustainable development, teaching and transdisciplinarity, sustainable clothing consumption, lifestyles, social anxiety, overconsumption, mindfulness and teaching materials for sustainable clothing consumption. Within those categories, teachers provided their understanding of how sustainable development is implemented in the Swedish education system and how sustainable clothing consumption could interlink individual contributions to environmental issues. A desired collective shift is facilitated through knowledge development that on the one hand is significant in the students’ perspective but on the other hand is also relevant for teachers within their proficiency and beyond. With a resulting concept of education on sustainable clothing consumption and transdisciplinary teaching, teachers shall be aided in their duty to encourage their students to become responsible citizens.

Denna uppsats syftar till att undersöka hur influencern Bianca Ingrosso framställer klädkonsumtion på YouTube. Med en bakgrund av en ökad medvetenhet kring klädkonsumtionens klimatpåverkan genomfördes en kritisk diskursanalys för att undersöka hur Bianca Ingrosso idag kan ha makt över konsumtionsdiskursen och därmed upprätthålla ohållbara konsumtionsnormer i samhället. Syftet var således att skapa en kritisk språkmedvetenhet över hur språk kan upprätthålla maktrelationer i samhället. Studien har sin utgångspunkt i Baumans teori om konsumtionssamhället, Rosas teori om social acceleration och Scheffs teori om sociala band. Resultatet visade att Bianca Ingrosso framställer klädkonsumtion på ett sätt som kan vara avgörande för individens mående, sociala relationer, identitetsbildande och sociala position i samhället. Resultatet av studien kopplades sedan in i en större samhällelig kontext vilket visade att Ingrosso upprätthåller och reproducerar en konsumtionskultur som kan vara svår att förändra. Orsaken till detta kan vara att den är djupt förankrad i både samhällets sociala, kulturella och ekonomiska strukturer. / This study aims to investigate how the influencer Bianca Ingrosso portrays clothing consumption on YouTube. With a background of increased awareness of the climate impact of clothing consumption, a critical discourse analysis was carried out to investigate how Bianca Ingrosso have power over the consumption discourse and thereby maintain unsustainable consumption norms in society. The aim was thus to create a critical language awareness of how language can maintain power relations in society. The study has its starting point in Baumans theory of consumer society, Rosas theory of social acceleration and Scheffs theory of social bonds. The result showed that Bianca Ingrosso portrays clothing consumption in a way that can be decisive for the individual's well-being, social relationships, identity and social position in society. The results of thes tudy are then linked into a larger societal context, which showed that Ingrosso maintains and reproduces a consumption culture that can be difficult to change given that it is deeply rooted in both society's social, cultural and economic structures.

Kläder är inte bara ett funktionellt måste för oss människor, utan fungerar även som ett verktyg för att uttrycka vår identitet och självbild. Genom att konsumera kläder kan vi kommunicera personlighet, värderingar och känslor till omvärlden, och genom klädval kan vi skapa en känsla av samhörighet med andra som delar våra klädstilar och preferenser. Syftet med denna studie var att undersöka hur unga män konsumerar kläder i relation till sin identitet och självbild, samt hur kläder kan användas som ett verktyg för identitetsskapande. För att besvara syftet formulerades två forskningsfrågor; “Hur använder och betraktar män i åldrarna 18-25 kläder som en del av sin självbild och identitetsskapande?” och “Hur påverkar detta deras konsumtion av kläder?”. Studien genomfördes med hjälp av en kvalitativ metod där 13 semi-strukturerade intervjuer utfördes. Det teoretiska ramverket som har lagt grunden för denna studie baserades främst på modellerna “Theory of Planned Behavior” (Ajzen 1991) och “Consumer Decision Model” (Bray 2008), samt boken Social Psychology of Dress (Lennon et. al 2017). Vidare har teoretiska perspektiv som Simmels "trickle-down-theory" (1904), Papyrina’s tankar om konformitet och distinktion (2012), Östberg och Graffman ´s bok om konsumtionssamhället och människans vilja att förbli unik (2018) samt González’s och Bovine’s idéer om assimilering och social distinktion (2012) använts vid genomförandet av studien. Resultatet visade att unga män konsumerar kläder med syftet att uppnå både konformitet och distinktion. Deras klädval påverkas av hur de vill bli uppfattade av omgivningen, samt deras egna känslor, där motiv som att vara trendig och se bekväm ut framträdde. En annan viktig faktor vid klädkonsumtion är att anpassa sig utifrån förändringar i ens identitet över tid, även om det ibland kan begränsas av hinder, däribland ekonomiska, etiska och tidsrelaterade. / Clothing is not only a functional necessity for us humans but also serves as a tool for expressing our identity and self-image. By consuming clothes, we can communicate personality, values, and emotions to the world, and through clothing choices, we can create a sense of belonging with others who share our clothing styles and preferences. The purpose of this study was to examine how young men consume clothing in relation to their identity and self-image, and how clothing can be used as a tool for identity formation. To answer the purpose, two research questions were formulated: "How do men between the ages 18-25 use and perceive clothing as part of their self-image and identity formation?" and "How does this affect their clothing consumption?" The study was conducted using a qualitative method, with 13 semi-structured interviews. The theoretical framework that has underpinned this study is primarily based on the models "Theory of Planned Behavior" (Ajzen 1991) and "Consumer Decision Model" (Bray 2008), as well as the book "Social Psychology of Dress" (Lennon et al. 2017). Furthermore, theoretical perspectives such as Simmel's "trickle-down theory" (1904), Papyrina's thoughts on conformity and distinction (2012), Östberg and Graffman's book on consumer society and the human desire to remain unique (2018), and González and Bovine's ideas about assimilation and social distinction (2012) were used in the implementation of the study. The results showed that young men consume clothing with the aim of both achieving conformity and distinction. Their clothing choices are influenced by how they want to be perceived by their environment, as well as their own feelings, with motives such as being trendy and feeling comfortable emerging. Another important factor in clothing consumption is adapting to changes in one's identity over time, although it can sometimes be limited by obstacles, including economic, ethical, and time-related constraints.

The textile industry is an unsustainable industry that contributes to many environmental and social challenges. As a promising approach to its transformation, this thesis explores the con-cept of anti consumption. It investigates how non governmental Organizations (NGOs) com-municate the concept in the context of fashion on Instagram. The study aims to explore the key themes used and seeks to understand how organizations critique the capitalist system and to whom responsibility for its implementation within the communication is attributed . A total of 45 Instagram posts from the organizations Fashion Revolution and Remake were examined in a thematic analysis.The NGOs expose exploitative power dynamics and colonial structures and reveal manipulation as a tool of capitalism. In contrast, the value of clothing is redefined and happiness in individuality is examined. While brands are held accountable in the communication, the emphasis is on individual responsibility.

Denna studie syftar till att skapa en djupare förståelse för hur kvinnliga studenter uppfattar att opinionsledare påverkar deras klädkonsumtion. Studien undersöker varför den utvalda målgruppen väljer att avstå från att konsumera secondhandkläder. Detta är av intresse med tanke på den ökade medvetenheten om klädindustrins negativa miljöpåverkan och den ökade populariteten av att köpa secondhandkläder. Det är väsentligt att undersöka detta utifrån opinionsledare, då det kan ha en inverkan gällande människors konsumtion. För att uppnå syftet med studien har tre frågeställningar utformats. Den första frågeställningen är gällande vilka faktorer kvinnliga studenter uppfattar påverkar deras beslut gällande klädkonsumtion. Den andra frågeställningen undersöker hur de uppfattar att opinionsledare har en inverkan på deras värderingar samt identitet. Den tredje frågeställningen är vad det finns för samband mellan kvinnliga studenters opinionsledare och deras val att avstå från att konsumera secondhandkläder. Studiens metod innefattar en kvalitativ undersökning i form av intervjuer som har transkriberats, kodats och strukturerats utifrån en tematisk analys. Studiens deltagare innefattar åtta kvinnliga heltidsstudenter som inte konsumerar secondhandkläder. Resultatet har analyserats utifrån två teorier: tvåstegshypotesen och mål-medel-kedjan. Studiens resultat visar att de främsta faktorerna som målgruppen uppfattar påverkar deras klädköp är ekonomi, sociala medier och marknadsföring. Kvinnliga studenter uppfattar att opinionsledare kan ha en viss inverkan både gällande värderingar och identitet. Resultatet visar även att det finns flera samband mellan kvinnliga studenters opinionsledare och deras val att inte konsumera secondhandkläder, exempelvis åsikter och värderingar gällande secondhandkläder. / This study aims to create a deeper understanding of how female students perceive that opinion leaders influence their clothing consumption. The study investigates why the selected target group chooses not to consume second hand clothing. This is of interest considering the increased awareness of the clothing industry's negative environmental impact and the increased popularity of buying second hand clothes. It is essential to investigate this based on opinion leaders, as it can have an impact on people's consumption. To achieve the purpose of the study, three questions have been formulated. The first question is about which factors female students perceive influence their decisions regarding clothing consumption. Question two is about how they perceive that opinion leaders have an impact on their values and identity. The third question concerns what kind of connection there is between female students' opinion leaders and their choice to refrain from consuming second hand clothes. The study's method is based on a qualitative investigation in the form of interviews that have been transcribed, coded and structured based on a thematic analysis. The target group includes eight female full-time-students who do not consume second-hand clothing. The result has been analyzed based on two theories: two-step flow and means-end chain. The study's results show that the main factors that the target group indicated influence their clothing purchases are finance, social media and marketing. Female students perceive that opinion leaders can have a certain influence on both values and identity. The results also show that there are several connections between female students' opinion leaders and their choice not to consume second hand clothes, for example opinions and values regarding second hand clothes.

Gender, age and appearance are examples of factors that affect individuals' identity. Consumption of clothing is therefore a key element that makes people a part of society and its development. A correct type of clothing consumption is needed to remain part of a community, both among friends and in society, in order not to risk deviating. What is considered right, and wrong way of consuming is regulated by different social norms and processes. Historically, consumption and appearance have been more important for women than for men. In order to successfully demonstrate their status, class and identity, women are expected to relate to certain types of norms and consume clothes in a certain way. The aim is therefore to provide further understanding of what norms and social processes that regulate Swedish women between the ages of 20–27 in their clothing consumption. Due to the thematic width shown in the study’s empirical data, several different theoretical concepts and theories are used, mainly Goffman’s analysis method and identity along with gender as a theoretical concept. The study is based on ten semi-structured interviews with women from central and southern Sweden. The outcome shows four norms and social processes that regulate young women’s clothing consumption. These are society's norms on the female body, the impact of social debate, age influence on their clothing style and the importance of friend’s opinions. The main conclusion is that all women adhere to these four norms and social processes when they consume clothes and that partially happens unconsciously.