A degradação ambiental proporcionada pelo consumo de produtos (JORGENSON, 2003) é fruto tanto da evolução de uma sociedade que se distancia da natureza (MORAN, 2011), quanto de suas reais necessidades (FRY, 2005). Da mesma forma, os interesses do mercado, de governos e de consumidores enrijecem a manutenção de uma sociedade hiperconsumista (FRY, 2005). Este fato é observado pela existência de políticas governamentais de consumo (corrente do consumo verde) que prezam pela rotulagem ambiental, depositam a responsabilidade da redução da degradação ambiental no consumidor (AKENJI, 2014), e que não consideram que o aumento da ecoeficiência, sem questionar quais são os limites ambientais impostos para a realização das atividades humanas, provocam um efeito de rebote que pode elevar ainda mais a degradação ambiental (HANLEY et al., 2009). Em contrapartida, a corrente do consumo sustentável afirma ser necessário repensar os níveis de consumo de modo a não ultrapassarmos os limites impostos pelo ambiente à realização das nossas atividades (AKENJI, 2014). Desta forma, a informação necessária para a corrente do consumo sustentável é aquela que indica em que medida as capacidades de suporte do ambiente foram superadas (ALCOTT, 2008). Dentre todos os instrumentos capazes de fornecer informação sobre os aspectos ambientais de produtos, a Avaliação do Ciclo de Vida (ACV) é o único instrumento desenhado para avaliar as consequências ambientais relacionadas ao ciclo de vida de um produto (CHEHEBE, 1997). Entretanto, as evidências encontradas na bibliografia indicam que os métodos utilizados pela ACV para mensurar as consequências ambientais do produto (métodos de AICV - Avaliação do Impacto do Ciclo de Vida) foram estruturados para calcular majoritariamente a ecoeficiência dos produtos, pois são poucos (ou não indicados pela bibliografia) os casos em que a capacidade de suporte do ambiente é avaliada por estes métodos (POTTING; HAUSCHILD, 2006). Diante deste quadro, esta dissertação se propôs a avaliar se os métodos de AICV existentes estão alinhados à sustentabilidade forte ou se estão alinhados à sustentabilidade fraca. Dois critérios de avaliação foram definidos com base nos princípios da sustentabilidade forte: (i) O resultado do indicador da Categoria de Impacto deve apresentar quanto da capacidade de suporte foi ultrapassada ou não para as emissões relacionadas ao ciclo de vida do produto - alinhado ao princípio (a) da sustentabilidade forte, de que as atividades humanas devem ser limitadas à capacidade de suporte do ambiente (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992) - e, (ii) Todas as Categorias de Impacto (CIs) do método de AICV devem atender ao requisito (i) - alinhado ao princípio (b) da sustentabilidade forte, de que não há substitutabilidade completa entre os diferentes elementos do capital natural (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992). Dos métodos de AICV avaliados (CML 2002, Eco-Indicator 99, Eco-Factors 2006, EDIP 2003, IMPACT2002+, MEErP 2011) verificou-se que nenhum método está alinhado aos princípios da sustentabilidade forte, pois os critérios (i) e (ii) não foram atendidos concomitantemente. Desta forma, concluiu-se que por não estarem alinhados aos princípios da sustentabilidade forte, os métodos de AICV avaliados não são capazes de atender à demanda do consumo sustentável por informações. Sua utilização demonstra que as políticas de consumo verde continuam a depositar a maior responsabilidade pela reversão da degradação ambiental nos consumidores, sem alterar a estrutura sistêmica criada pelos governos, pelo mercado e consumidores na qual o hiperconsumo prevalece. / The environmental degradation provided by the consumption of products (JORGENSON, 2003) is the result of the evolution of a society that distances itself away from nature (MORAN, 2011) and from its real needs (FRY, 2005). At the same time, the interests of the market, governments and consumers maintain the hyper-consumption society (FRY, 2005). This fact is noticed by the presence of government consumption policies that appreciate environmental labeling, lay the responsibility for the reduction of the environmental degradation on the consumer (green consumption current) (AKENJI, 2014), and do not consider that the increase in eco-efficiency, without questioning the environmental limits for human activities, causes a rebound effect that can further raise environmental degradation (HANLEY et al., 2009). In contrast, the sustainable consumption current claims to be necessary to rethink consumption levels in order not to overpass the limits imposed by the environment for our activities (AKENJI, 2014). Thus, the necessary information for the sustainable consumption current is the one that indicates to what extent the environmental carrying capacity is exceeded (ALCOTT, 2008). Among all the instruments able to provide information on the environmental aspects of products, the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is the only instrument designed to assess the environmental consequences related to the life cycle of a product (CHEHEBE, 1997). However, the evidence found in the literature indicates that the methods used by LCA to measure the environmental impact of products (LCIA methods - Life Cycle Impact Assessment) were structured to mainly calculate the eco-efficiency of products, once there are only a few cases (or no indicated by references) in which the environmental carrying capacity is assessed by these methods (POTTING; HAUSCHILD, 2006). Given this context, this work aimed to evaluate whether existing LCIA methods are aligned to the strong or weak sustainability currents. Two evaluation criteria were defined on the basis of strong sustainability: (i) The results of the Impact Category indicator should present how much of the carrying capacity has been exceeded or not by the emissions related to the product life cycle according to the principle (a) of the strong sustainability, which states that human activities should be limited by the environmental carrying capacity (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992) - and (ii) All Impact Categories of a LCIA method must meet the requirement (i) - according to the principle (b) of the strong sustainability, which states that there is no complete substitutability between the different elements of natural capital (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992). From the evaluation of the LCIA methods (CML 2002, Eco-Indicator 99 Eco-Factors 2006, EDIP 2003 IMPACT2002+ and MEErP 2011) it was found that any of these methods are aligned with the principles of the strong sustainability, once the methods do not comply with criteria (i) and (ii ) concurrently. Thus, it was concluded that once they are not aligned to the principles of strong sustainability, the evaluated LCIA methods are not able to meet the demand of sustainable consumption for information. Its use demonstrates that green consumption policies continue to place the greatest responsibility for the reversal of the environmental degradation on consumers, without changing the systemic structure created by governments, the market and consumers in which hyper-consumption prevails.

Ständig förändring är strakt förknippat med modeindustrin, då nya trender och stilar tenderar att förändras kontinuerligt. I västvärlden konsumerar människor betydligt mer modeprodukter än vad naturens resurser tillåter. Modekonsumenterna fick dock en insyn av textilbranschens negativa miljöpåverkan år 2017. Det skrevs då en ny lag som föreskriver att modeföretag måste informera sina modekonsumenter om bärkassarnas, speciellt plastbärkassens, negativa påverkan. I samband med att lagen stiftades, skapades organisationen One Bag Habit som fick modekonsumenterna att tänka en extra gång innan de konsumerar bärkassar i modebutikerna. På grund av bland annat One Bag Habit avstår modekonsumenter numera att konsumera bärkassar på grund av miljöaspekter, dock fortsätter de att konsumera mängder av modeprodukter utan att blicka. Modekonsumenter har sedan år 2017 blivit medvetna om de problem som bärkassen medför och väljer då att avstå dessa, men när det kommer till modeprodukter finns troligtvis en medvetenhet om problemet där också men konsumtionen fortsätter ändå. Detta har lett till att denna uppsats belyser hur denna kontrast bildas mellan att konsumera modeprodukter och att avstå från bärkassen på grund av miljöskäl. Denna studie undersöker detta gap genom att fokusera på hur modekonsumenter förhåller sig till konsumtion av bärkassar i förhållande till modeprodukter. Resultatet ger en förståelse för varför det blir en kontrast mellan konsumtion av bärkassar och modeprodukter. Därav kommer resultatet resultera i en djupare förståelse kring varför ett attityd-beteende gap skapas och en stadig grund för vidare forskning. För att förstå och tolka det empiriska materialet modifierades en modell av attityd-beteende gapet. Utöver det kommer behovsidentifikation att ligga till grund för den teoretiska referensramen. En kvalitativ intervju, tre fokusgruppsintervjuer och en observation utgör det empiriska materialet. Urvalet bestod av studenter från tre olika högskolor i Sverige (Textilhögskolan i Borås, Göteborgs Universitet och Mälardalens högskola i Västerås). Slutsatserna av studien är att modeföretagen måste börja informera modekonsumenterna varför och hur de kan agera hållbart, istället för att informera att de ska agera hållbart. Utöver det måste de hållbara modeprodukterna vara prismässigt jämförbart med inte hållbara modeprodukter, för att modekonsumenterna ska agera hållbar. Slutligen krävs det att de hållbara modeprodukterna har tillräckligt attraktiv design för att modekonsumenterna ska investera i hållbara modeprodukter. / Constant change is closely associated with the fashion industry, as new trends and styles tent to change continuously. In the Western world, people consume considerably more fashion products than what the natural resources allow. The fashion consumers, however, gained an insight into the fashion industry´s negative environmental impact in 2017. A new law was founded to alert the fashion consumers of the negative effect of the shopping bags, especially made with plastic. In association with the new law, an organization, naming One Bag Habit was created. This led the fashion consumers to think extra before deciding to consume a shopping bag when they made a purchase of fashion item. Due to One Bag habit, fashion consumers now avoid from consuming shopping bags because of environmental aspects. The reluctance to consuming a shopping bag in addition to the fashion purchase has decreased yet impacts on the actual fashion consumption have not changed. Previous research has identified an attitude-behaviour gap between how fashion consumers value sustainable products and their actual behaviour in accordance with these values. This has led to this paper highlighting how this contrast is formed between consuming fashion products and refraining from the shopping bags because of environmental reasons. This study has a textile management approach, which means that the study is primarily aimed at companies in order to help them understand how fashion consumers value and act in different purchasing situations. This study will examine how fashion consumers consume shopping bags in relation to fashion products. The findings will contribute to creating an understanding of the created contrast between sustainable consumption regarding shopping bags and non-sustainable one regarding fashion consumption itself. Moreover, the findings will contribute to a deeper understanding of why the attitude-behaviour gap has created such a contrast among the fashion consumer. In order to understand and interpret the empirical material of this study, a theoretical model of attitude-behaviour gap was created. In addition, an understanding of how needs are created among consumers will be contributing to the formation of the theoretical framework. Furthermore, data was collected through qualitative interviews, three focus groups, and an observation. The data sample frame consisted of students from three different universities in Sweden (the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, University of Gothenburg and Mälardalens University in Västerås). The findings of the study show that fashion companies need to be more specific when informing the fashion consumers on why and how they can act more sustainably when consuming fashion and shopping bags. In addition, the sustainable fashion products should be comparable in prices terms to non-sustainable fashion products in order for fashion consumers to act sustainable. Finally, it is suggested that the sustainable fashion products have an appealing designs in order for the fashion consumers to invest in sustainable fashion products.

從原始社會以物易物的交換開始，人為了生活需求就已離不開「消費」，也逐漸產生消費者保護的議題。但由於近代人類大量消費和相關的生產活動，大量的截取自然資源，造成自然環境破壞，反而危害人類的生存環境，促使消費者保護關切到環境保護的課題。 由於環境迅速惡化的問題愈來愈獲國際社會重視，為了追求人類社會的永續發展，1992年聯合國環境和發展會議通過《廿一世紀議程(Agenda 21)》，並於其第四章「改變消費模式」中提出「永續消費(sustainable consumption)」理念及相關行動方針；1999年國際消費者保護聯盟(CI)並促請聯合國將1985年訂定的「聯合國消費者保護指導綱領」增加第G章「推動永續消費(Section G. Promotion of sustainable consumption)」，從此「永續消費」成為國際推動消費者保護工作的一個新主題。 台灣由於社會經濟環境的演進，因消費行為而影響環境或反過來影響消費者健康事件也愈趨頻仍，但目前尚無這方面具體的消費者保護政策。為了維護居住環境品質，確保台灣的永續發展，以及身為國際社會的一員，共同分擔國人消費行為對全球環境影響的責任，我國有必要制訂推動「永續消費」的消費者保護政策。行政院消費者保護委員會雖自2009年已依筆者的初步研究，正式開始推動「永續消費」，但缺乏具體的政策架構及推動內容，影響推動進展，有需要加以建立，而這也是本論文主要的研究動機與目的。 本論文先透過對國內外「永續消費」及消費者保護發展資料的蒐集、彙整、探討及分析比較，建立「消費者保護—推動永續消費」的操作性定義、政策原則及目標等政策架構，再依據政策規劃理論研訂出政策綱領(初稿)。為確保此一綱領的具體可行，運用問卷調查及焦點團體法廣泛蒐集消費者及各界學者專家的意見並加以彙整分析、評估及研處後，據以修訂完成綱領“草案”，將提供政府機關參採。 在以上的政策規劃及評估過程中，本論文有很多重要的研究發現，包括：對永續消費意涵的重新界定並建立我國的政策架構；就國際推動永續消費的困難，提出因應對策；「永續消費」應視為消費者應盡的「義務」或延伸責任；台灣應重視中高齡者環保商品和服務的開發、產業的轉型，以及加強因應食品、娛樂教育及文化服務、水資源、交通運輸及通訊、醫療及保健等產業的永續消費課題；透過問卷調查分析，獲知多數的受訪者雖認同「永續消費」的理念，但亦認為自己個人的能力有限．．．等。 針對以上研究發現，本論文提出的建議主要有：在政策理念發展方面，包括：將「永續消費」理念納入並研修消費者保護法令、基本政策及永續發展行動計畫等重要政策文件；關注國際永續消費及消費者保護的推動進展，積極參與並分擔消費對全球環境影響責任；以「永續消費」作為未來我國消費者保護新時代的推動方針；加強弱勢消費族群的經濟扶助及消費教育；獎助公務人員進行與業務有關的進修及研究並提供行政協助等。在未來政策綱領推動執行方面，包括：加強綱領觀念的推廣與宣導；強化推動組織的職能；參考焦點座談與談者所提涉及未來執行方面的建議，研議執行細節。 另就「永續消費」未來可繼續研究的方向，本論文建議包括：發展「永續消費」的其他政策面向；研究發展本土性的政策工具；及針對特定議題或推動困難進行專案研究。 / From the beginning of people exchange goods in primitive society, people need to consume for living, so there were some issues related consumer protection raised. Because of people had consumed too much and the related production activities in modern society, massive amounts of natural resources were consumed and that result to hurt the environment which human live, compelling the area of consumer protection be expended to environment protection. Due to the problem of environment getting worse be paid attention gradually at global society, for pursuing the sustainable development of human society, the idea of “sustainable consumption” and it’s related action guidelines were addressed in the 4th chapter “Changing consumption patterns” in "Agenda 21" which had passed in United Nations Conference on Environment and Development in 1992. Then after, Consumers International(CI) promoted successfully that “United Nations Guidelines for Consumer Protection” which had passed in 1985 be added the Section G. Promotion of sustainable consumption in 1999, so “sustainable consumption” has become a new subject in consumer protection area from now on. As a result of the evolution of Taiwan’s society and economy, the events that consumer behavior affect the environment and the affected environment affect the consumer health in turn are becoming more often, but there is still not having the related concrete consumer protection policy in Taiwan now. In order to maintain the environmental quality to live and guarantee Taiwan’s sustainable development, being one of members of global society, Taiwan should share the duty of global environment affected by our people’s consumer behavior, so it is necessary to set up the consumer protection policy related sustainable consumption in Taiwan. Although the CPC (Consumer Protection Commission, Executive Yuan) has begun to promote consumer protection affairs related sustainable consumption according to my preliminary study since 2009, its progress is limited because of lacking a concrete policy framework and content, so it is necessary to establish the policy guidelines that is also the main research motivation and purpose of this dissertation. I established a policy framework which include the operational definition, policy principles and goals of the policy guidelines for “Consumer Protection - Promotion of sustainable consumption” through collecting, arranging, exploring, analyzing and comparing domestic and foreign information related sustainable consumption and consumer protection development at first, then draw up the first draft of this guidelines by applying the theory of policy formulation according to the policy framework. In order to guarantee the policy guidelines are indeed practicable, I collected extensively the opinions to this guidelines from consumer, scholars and experts by using questionnaire survey and focus group method afterwards. Finally, I integrated, analyzed, evaluated and studied these opinions to revise the first draft as a protocol which will be provided the government as a reference. There are some important discoveries in the policy formulation and evaluation process in this dissertation, including: redefined the meaning of sustainable consumption and established Taiwan’s policy; to create resolutions to the difficulties of promoting sustainable consumption ; regarding sustainable consumption as consumer’s responsibility or the extensive duty; Taiwan should pay more attention to develop environment friendly product and service for medium-elder people, industry reforming, as well as the issues of sustainable consumption in food, entertainment, education and cultural service, water resources, transportation and communication, medical service and health care, etc; by way of the analysis of questionnaire survey, we realized that most of interviewees not only identify with the idea of sustainable consumption, but also considered that individual ability to improve environmental quality is limited, etc. According to the above discoveries, the main suggestions of this dissertation are: firstly, at the aspect of development of policy idea, including: to revise consumer protection law, consumer protection basic policy, national action plan of sustainable development and other policy documents; to pay attention to the international development of sustainable consumption and consumer protection, and take part in and share positively the duty of impacts of global environment which is caused by consumption; to regard sustainable consumption as a guidelines in the new consumer protection era of Taiwan; to provide the disadvantaged consumer with economy assistance and consumer education; to encourage the servant pursue further education and have a study related their practice, as well as provide the administrative assistance. At the aspect of the execution of the policy guidelines later, including: to propagate and promote the idea of the policy guidelines actively; to intensify the function of promoting and executive organization; to explore the detail of execution, according to experts’ suggestions in the focus group meeting. In addition, at the aspect of the continued study for sustainable consumption in the future, the suggestions of this dissertation are including: to develop other policy aspect than consumer protection; to study and develop policy tools which are fit to Taiwan; and to conduct special research to specific issues or difficulties of promoting.

Depuis plusieurs années des stratégies de marketing social sont déployées par les gouvernements et les associations de consommation pour promouvoir des comportements de consommation durable. Ces actions de marketing social sont généralement basées une approche rationnelle du comportement humain. Deux caractéristiques émergent de cette approche. Selon une première caractéristique, le consommateur choisit délibérément des produits en fonction des informations qu'il détient. Il évalue le poids de ces informations en termes de coût/bénéfice pour prendre sa décision. Il suffit de fournir des informations adéquates et en nombre suffisant pour influencer la prise de décision. En dépit de cette idée, des recherches récentes suggèrent que le comportement peut découler automatiquement de la simple perception de la situation (Dijksterhuis & Bargh, 2001). Les indices perçus dans le contexte activent automatiquement des comportements afin de permettre à l'individu de réagir de façon rapide et adaptée. Cette approche a fait l'objet d'un premier volet de recherches menées dans le cadre de cette thèse. Les données de trois études expérimentales renforcent l'idée qu'il est possible d'influencer la valeur écologique de choix de consommation grâce à la perception d'indices liés à l'écologie. La perception d'indices écologiques favorise l'émergence de choix de produits écologiques uniquement s'ils sont connotés de façon négative (e.g., pollution). Par ailleurs, cet effet ne dépend pas d'habitudes d'éco-consommation préexistantes. La seconde caractéristique suggère que les consommateurs agissent en accord avec leur attitude. Si l'on change l'attitude, le comportement en sera affecté. De nombreuses études se sont attachées à mieux connaître le lien entre attitude et comportement. Ces études ont eu pour objet (1) de développer des techniques ou mesures permettant d'affiner la prédiction du comportement à partir de l'attitude ou (2) de tenter de dégager les variables qui modèrent la force de ce lien entre attitude et comportement. D'autres chercheurs se sont attachés à renforcer la probabilité d'émergence de comportements spécifiques en faisant prendre conscience aux individus que leurs comportements sont parfois en inadéquation avec les opinions qu'ils défendent publiquement. Cette dernière approche, dite de l'hypocrisie induite (Aronson, 1999), a été examinée dans un second volet de recherches menées dans le cadre cette thèse. Deux expériences montrent que l'hypocrisie peut ne pas avoir d'effet au niveau comportemental, voire avoir des effets négatifs. Par ailleurs, la seconde étude apporte davantage de pertinence au paradigme de l'hypocrisie induite quant à ses possibilités d'application réelle au marketing social. / For several years, social marketing strategies have been deployed by governments and consumer associations in order to promote sustainable consumer behaviors. These actions are mainly based on a rational conception of human behavior. Two characteristics emerge from this view. According to a first characteritstic, consumers deliberately choose products according to the information given to them. They assess the weight of that information in terms of cost and benefits in order to take their decision. From this point of view, providing a sufficient number of adequate information is sufficient to influence the decision process. Despite this idea, recent research suggests that behavior can rise automatically from the perception of the situation (Dijksterhuis & Bargh, 2001). Perceived situational cues automatically activate behaviors in order to allow the people to react fast and in an adapted manner. This approach was used in a first section of our research. Data from three experimental studies support the idea that the perception of ecological cues implicitly influences the ecological value of the products chosen by consumers, but only when these cues are negatively related to ecology (e.g., pollution). In addition, this effect does not depend on preexisting ecological consumer habits. The second characteristic suggests that consumers act in line with their attitude. If the attitude is changed, behavior will be affected as well. Many studies examined the relation between attitude and behavior. These studies aimed at (1) developing measurements and techniques to refine the prediction of the behavior by the attitude, and (2) trying to identify moderating variables of the attitude-behavior link. Other researchers endeavored to reinforce the emergence of specific behaviors by making people aware about the fact that their behavior is sometimes inconsistent with the opinion they advocate publicly. This last framework, known as induced hypocrisy (Aronson, 1999), was examined in the second part of our research. Two experiments illustrate that hypocrisy can sometimes have no behavioral effect, and even a negative effects. In addition, the second study brings relevance to induced hypocrisy as an applicable marketing technique.

The rapid disposal of products has detrimental effects on environment which is increasing resource consumption for the production of new products, along with the waste production. Therefore, designing long lasting products has great importance for achieving sustainable consumption and production. The present study analyzes the implications of an approach called post-use design thinking for achieving sustainable consumption and production through product longevity. To explore that approach, two educational industrial design projects are analyzed throughout the study. The results suggest that post-use design thinking should be considered at the early stages of the design process. The idea generation exercises developed specifically for this design thinking seem to be helpful in generating design solutions for post-use phase. The results also indicate that the post-use design thinking is feasible in terms of design and production for glass packaging products, which is the specific case analyzed throughout the research.

Apart from the theoretical information overview available today on the issue of sustainable development, business innovation and a healthy lifestyle, you can find a practical part in an diploma thesis. In the first half of the practical section there is an overview of activities of some Czech and foreign retailers and consumer organizations towards sustainability. In the second half there is a project designed for a specific shopping center in Budweis. The project is supported by an online marketing research and its task is to design consultancy and information center. It will be located precisely in shopping center in Budweis and will serve its customers as a place where customers will be able not only to obtain information on sustainable development, but also take the opportunity to learn in this field.

nÃo hà / CoordenaÃÃo de AperfeÃoamento de Pessoal de NÃvel Superior / O uso dos recursos naturais sempre se mostrou como elemento essencial para o desenvolvimento e reproduÃÃo da vida humana. A ampliaÃÃo dos debates sobre os impactos ambientais decorrentes dos padrÃes de consumo da sociedade industrial despertou para a percepÃÃo do Estado como um expressivo consumidor de bens e serviÃos. Diversos paÃses passaram a adotar guias e metodologias para inserir critÃrios de sustentabilidade em suas aquisiÃÃes, prÃtica que ficou conhecida como contrataÃÃo pÃblica sustentÃvel (CPS). As CPS sÃo definidas como um fenÃmeno no qual os ÃrgÃos governamentais procuram inserir critÃrios de sustentabilidade socioambiental na aquisiÃÃo de bens e contrataÃÃo de serviÃos. Assim, o objetivo principal deste ensaio foi analisar a inserÃÃo de critÃrios de sustentabilidade nas compras de bens e contrataÃÃo de serviÃos dos ÃrgÃos do Poder Executivo Federal brasileiro. Para possibilitar o alcance dos objetivos estabelecidos, promoveu-se a utilizaÃÃo da amostragem probabilÃstica. O total de 24 ministÃrios foi considerado como populaÃÃo a partir da qual foi obtido uma amostra de 12 ministÃrios, utilizando-se um nÃvel de confianÃa de 95% e um erro mÃximo de 3 pontos percentuais. Foram analisadas as contrataÃÃes realizadas pelos ÃrgÃos da amostra nos anos de 2010 a 2013. A anÃlise da implementaÃÃo da polÃtica de CPS do Poder Executivo Federal foi realizada observando as etapas do âciclo PDCAâ. Foram utilizados dados primÃrios, levantados atravÃs de questionÃrios estruturados aplicados oralmente junto ao representante de cada ÃrgÃo integrante da amostra. A pesquisa evidenciou que os instrumentos desenvolvidos para a implementaÃÃo de prÃticas de CPS privilegiam as medidas voltadas para a mitigaÃÃo dos impactos ambientais, em detrimento dos aspectos sociais. Restou demonstrado que a polÃtica de CPS do Poder Executivo Federal brasileiro expressa uma sÃlida base, considerando os instrumentos legais e institucionais editados pelo Poder Executivo Federal desde o ano de 2010. No entanto, a pesquisa evidenciou o subaproveitamento desses instrumentos, em especial, pelos ÃrgÃos integrantes da amostra. As metas pouco ousadas do Plano de AÃÃo para ProduÃÃo e Consumo SustentÃveis (PPCS), acerca da implementaÃÃo das CPS, se repetem nos PLS dos ÃrgÃos integrantes da amostra. Restaram identificados como principais fatores limitantes a ausÃncia de metas claras e objetivas que abrangessem todos os ÃrgÃos e entidades da AdministraÃÃo PÃblica Federal e a falta de apoio do grupo de direÃÃo dos ÃrgÃos integrantes da amostra. AlÃm disso, constatouse que a ausÃncia de dados sistematizados impossibilita a avaliaÃÃo do progresso no alcance de metas estabelecidas pelo ÃrgÃo, bem assim da efetividade da polÃtica de CPS do Poder Executivo Federal. / The use of natural resources has always been an essential element in the development and reproduction of human life. The increase in discussion regarding the consumption patterns of industrial societies and subsequent environmental impacts has led to the perception of the State as a significant consumer of goods and services. In response, various countries have adopted and passed guidelines and methodologies, including sustainability criteria, within their procurement practices, a practice that became known as sustainable public procurement (SPP). This study analyzes the implementation of SPP within the Brazilian Federal Executive Power. Probability sampling was used to achieve the established goals of the analysis. 24 ministries were considered as populations from which a sample of 12 ministries was obtained using a confidence level of 95% and a percent error level of 3. The procurement practices from 2010 to 2013 of the sampled agencies were analyzed. An analysis of the implementation practices used by SPP of the Federal Executive Power was realized observing the stages of the PDCA cycle. Primary data was collected from representatives of each agency through verbally administered structured questionnaires. The research demonstrated that the instruments developed for the implementation of SPP practices emphasize the mitigation of environmental impact at the expense of social aspects. Taking into account the legal and institutional instruments created by the Federal Executive Power since 2010, it was concluded that the SPP policy utilized by the Brazilian Federal Executive Power has a solid basis. However, the research highlights the underuse of these tools, particularly by sample agencies. The underutilized goals of SPP implementation within the Plan of Action for Sustainable Production and Consumption (PSPC) are duplicated in the Sustainable Logistics Plan (SLP), and elaborated by the sampled agencies. Limiting factors identified were the absence of clear targets and goals within the entities and agencies of the Federal Public Administration, and the lack of managerial support within the sampled populations. Furthermore, it was observed that the absence of systemized data makes it impossible to evaluate progress toward achieving the goals set by the agency, as well as evaluating the effectiveness of the Brazilian Federal Executive Powerâs SSP policy.

Efforts to reduce negative impacts from consumption and production include voluntary market-based initiatives. Examples are the concept of eco-labelling and the concept of green procurement. These have emerged as policy instruments with great potentials to steer product innovation and purchasing decisions in a sustainable direction. This potential has been recognized by the United Nations, the European Union, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development and national governments through, e.g., various programmes and schemes. The aim of this thesis is to assess current criteria development processes within eco-labelling and green procurement from a strategic sustainability perspective and to describe possible improvement potentials from such a perspective to make these instruments more supportive of sustainable product and service innovation. A previously published framework for strategic sustainable development, including a definition of sustainability and generic guidelines to inform strategies towards sustainability, is adapted and used for this purpose. Criteria development processes in two Swedish eco-labelling programmes and at a governmental expert body for green procurement are studied. This includes interviews with criteria developers, studies of process documents and a case study at the governmental expert body for green procurement in which two criteria development processes were shadowed. The result reveals several strengths but also gaps and thus potentials for improvement. The criteria development processes and the resulting criteria mostly concern the current market supply and a selection of current environmental impacts outside the context of long-term objectives. Neither sustainability nor any other clearly defined long-term objective is agreed upon, and the criteria are not structured to support procurers, suppliers and product developers in a systematic and strategic stepwise approach towards sustainability. Recommended improvements include a more thorough sustainability assessment, communication of clearer objectives, broader competence in the criteria development groups and more emphasis on the dialogue and interaction between key actors. This includes an extended view on both the product concept and actors involved. Based on this, a new criteria development prototype is suggested, which aims at widening the scope from some currently known product impacts to the remaining gap to sustainability. During its further development and implementation, the criteria development prototype will be tested in successive iterations of action research together with experienced practitioners within eco-labelling and green procurement.

Society is facing a great Sustainability Challenge. The designs of our social and economic structures are creating enormous stress in our social, environmental and economic systems and across the world, citizens, businesses and governments have begun to take notice. Adopting more Sustainable Consumption behaviours have been identified as a necessary step in the move towards sustainability. This thesis explores the idea of Collaborative Consumption within the context of Cohousing in cities. Cohousing is defined as housing comprising of individual apartments or homes with shared spaces and facilities designed to create a community, oriented towards collaboration among residents and collective organisation of services. This research sought to identify key barriers and enablers for moving towards Sustainable Lifestyles and study the role of Cohousing as a catalyst for Collaborative Behaviour that triggers Collaborative Consumption leading urban communities towards Sustainable Lifestyles and ultimately towards Sustainable Development. By combining the Strategic Sustainable Development approach and Cohousing, this thesis provides a set of recommendations that could help Cohousing communities move strategically towards sustainability.

The clothing industry has for long been associated to sustainability, especially concerning the environment and ethical issues. Sweden has several times been distinguished as a country with great sustainable development yet Swedish consumers consume beyond their resources. 4,2 globes would be required if the whole world consumed like we do in Sweden. In order to increase the sustainable way of consuming clothing, we have in this study researched what incentives motivates consumers to choose sustainable clothing alternatives. Moreover, we have observed how the incentives respond to the variables gender and social class. The purpose of this study is to provide with information on how Swedish consumers prioritize their incentives to sustainable clothing consumption. Furthermore we will provide marketers with useful information that could contribute to an increasing sale of sustainable garments. Referring to prior research, we have identified the most frequently used incentives concerning sustainable consumption to Environmental, Social responsibility, Consumers’ health, Quality of material, Philanthropy and Trend purpose. Through a quantitative web based survey shared within several sustainable facebook pages, we have been able to demonstrate that the previously mentioned incentives can be applied on sustainable clothing consumption as well. We have also found tendencies proving differences in prioritizing dependent on gender and social class. However, it is important to have in mind the very fact that this study is based upon respondents’ perception of themselves as sustainable consumers hence a generalized conclusion of the whole population cannot be made. Based on the study’s result we can conclude that our respondents mainly prioritize incitements with collectivistic value principles. Furthermore, these can also relate to the need for love and belongingness in Maslow’s hierarchy of needs. Our findings also show that women with high education level and income are more prone to be motivated by environmental and ethical reasons. Concerning the men, we have not found an as appearing trend as for the women hence they have showed a wider spread in their replies. Among Swedish consumers, we have found a distinct willingness to pay more for sustainable clothing options. This applies to all respondents hence the study has not established a significant difference between the genders. However, we can determine an obscure tendency in difference concerning social class hence a high income tends to increase the willingness to pay more. / Klädindustrin har sedan länge kunnat kopplas samman med hållbarhet och då närmare bestämt miljöpåverkan samt etiska frågor. Sverige är ett land som toppar listor för hållbar utveckling men ändå konsumerar svenskar utöver sina resurser och hela 4,2 jordklot hade krävts ifall hela världen konsumerat på samma sätt. För att på sikt kunna öka den hållbara klädkonsumtionen har vi i denna studie sett till vilka incitament som ligger till grund för konsumtion av hållbara plagg. Vidare har vi sett till hur prioriteringarna inom dessa incitament varierar beroende på kön och klass. Studiens främsta bidrag har varit att visa hur svenska konsumenter väljer att prioritera sin hållbara klädkonsumtion. Utöver detta akademiska bidrag ville vi även bidra med kunskap kring hur klädföretag, på ett bättre och mer effektivt sätt, kan marknadsföra sina produkter av hållbara material. Utifrån tidigare forskning har vi identifierat de vanligaste förekommande incitamenteten för generell hållbar konsumtion: Miljö, Sociala förhållanden, Egen hälsa, Kvalitet på material, Filantropi samt Trendsyfte. Genom en kvantitativ digitaliserad enkätstudie som delats inom hållbara facebookgrupper har vi kunnat påvisa att dessa incitament kan appliceras även på hållbar klädkonsumtion och att då finns tendenser till skillnader i hur man prioriterar beroende på kön- och klasstillhörighet. Viktigt att ha i åtanke är det faktum att denna studie har utgått från att respondenterna själva får bedöma sina motiv och uppfattning kring deras hållbara konsumtion. Slutsatsen kan således ej påvisa ett generaliserbart resultat för hela populationen. Vi kan utifrån vår studies resultat visa att våra respondenter huvudsakligen prioriterar incitament med kollektivistisk värderingsgrund och dessa kan också kopplas samman med behoven för gemenskapsnivån i Maslows behovstrappa. Det har även framgått att det främst är kvinnor med hög utbildning och inkomst som motiveras av miljömässiga samt medmänskliga skäl. När det kommer till männen har det inte funnits en lika tydlig trend som hos kvinnorna då det förekommit större spridning i svaren. Bland svenska konsumenter har vi även funnit en villighet att betala mer för hållbara klädalternativ. Detta gäller samtliga konsumenter då studien inte funnit större skillnader mellan könen. Vi kan däremot konstatera en svag tendens till skillnader gällande klasstillhörighet då en hög inkomst tenderar öka villigheten att betala mer.