Hållbar konsumtion och produktion är viktiga delar i omställningen till ett klimatanpassat samhälle, där livsstilsförändringar kan spela en avgörande roll. Syftet med denna studie är att kvalitativt bedöma huruvida minskad arbetstid och inkomst kan ge effekter på personers miljöpåverkan från konsumtion, samt upplevda välbefinnande. För att uppnå detta utförs kvalitativa intervjuer med fem deltidsarbetande anställda på en svensk arbetsplats inom miljöfältet. Studien visar att de studerade personernas konsumtionsvanor i hög grad präglats av ett miljötänk, både innan och efter deltidsövergången, och vissa har sedan länge levt en sparsam livsstil. Minskad inkomst visade sig ha mindre betydelse för de studerade personernas konsumtionsval, men vissa hade minskat sitt sparande vilket kan tolkas som att konsumtion undviks i framtiden. Samtidigt har Covid-19 påverkat hela samhällets konsumtionsmönster, och studien pekar på att flera intervjupersoner förmodligen spenderar mindre pengar till följd av pandemin. Resultatet visar att minskad arbetstid och inkomst kan ge upphov till konsumtionsminskande effekter såsom ett minskat behov av att kompensera tidsbrist med konsumtion, samt ett mer rationellt och medvetet tänk kring privatekonomin. Det står också klart att en övergång till deltid, med motsvarande inkomstminskning, inte nödvändigtvis innebär att den totala inkomsten minskar i praktiken eftersom sidoinkomster och befordringar kan kompensera för inkomstförlusten. Tidsanvändningen är central för intervjupersonernas konsumtionsval. Mycket av deras tid läggs på aktiviteter med låg miljöbelastning, såsom utbildning, ideellt arbete, motion, vila och sociala relationer. Hur tid spenderas är också det mest centrala för hur intervjupersonernas upplevda välbefinnande påverkas, eftersom inkomstminskningen har en nästintill obefintlig negativ påverkan på dem. Mer tid till återhämtning, familj, vänner, vardagsbestyr och fritidsaktiviteter gynnar deras upplevda välbefinnande. Samtliga intervjuade upplever därtill en bättre balans mellan jobb och fritid, även om deltiden för med sig begränsningar i arbetet och fortsatta utmaningar med att anpassa arbetsbördan till den minskade arbetstiden. En arbetstidsminskning kan således leda till att personers miljöavtryck från konsumtion reduceras samtidigt som välbefinnandet ökar, men det kräver att ny fritid spenderas på rätt aktiviteter och att konsumtion minskar och/eller blir mindre miljöbelastande. Om tid i större mån skulle värderas högre än pengar genom minskad arbetstid och inkomst, skulle det kunna ändra konsumtionsnormen, minska konsumtion och produktion på samhällsnivå och därmed dess miljöpåverkan. / Sustainable consumption and production are important elements in the transition into a climate-adapted society, where lifestyle changes could play a crucial role. The purpose of this study is to qualitatively assess whether reduced working hours and income can have effects on people's environmental impact from consumption, as well as perceived well-being. To achieve this, qualitative interviews are conducted with five part-time employees at a Swedish workplace in the environmental field. The study shows that the interviewees’ consumption habits were largely characterized by environmental thinking, both before and after the part- time transition, and some already live a sufficient lifestyle. Reduced income proved to be less important for the interviewees' choice of consumption, however, some had reduced their savings, which can be interpreted as avoiding consumption in the future. At the same time, Covid-19 has affected the consumption patterns of society as a whole, and the study suggests that several interviewees probably spend less money as a consequence of the pandemic. The results show that reduced working hours and income can give rise to consumption-reducing effects such as a reduced need to compensate for lack of time with consumption, as well as more rationality and awareness regarding personal finances. It is also clear that a transition to part-time work, with a corresponding decrease in income, does not necessarily mean that total income decreases in practice, as side incomes and promotions can compensate for the loss of income. The use of time is central to the interviewees' consumption choices. A lot of their time is spent on activities with a low environmental impact, such as education, voluntary work, exercise, rest, and social relationships. How time is spent is also the most important factor in how the interviewees’ perceived well-being is affected, as the reduction in income has an almost non-existent negative impact on them. More time for recovery, family, friends, daily chores, and leisure activities benefit their perceived well-being. In addition, all interviewees experience a better work-life balance, even if part-time work entails limitations in work and continued challenges in adapting the workload to the reduced working hours. Hence, a reduction in working hours might lead to a reduction in people's environmental footprint from consumption while increasing well-being, given that the new leisure time is spent on the right activities and that consumption decreases and/or becomes less environmentally damaging. If time to a greater extent were to be valued over money through reduced working hours and income, it could change the consumption norm and reduce consumption and production at a societal level and thus, its environmental impact.

This study investigates the intricate relationship between environmental knowledge (EK), adoption barriers, and sustainable consumption (SC) behavior among young adults in Sweden. Utilizing cognitive dissonance theory (CDT) as a framework, the research aims to explain the mechanisms behind the intention-behavior gap in sustainable consumption. The Moderated Multiple Regression (MMR) analysis of survey data reveals a significant positive association between environmental knowledge and sustainable consumption behavior, with income level moderating this relationship – individuals with lower-income face barriers to sustainable consumption despite their knowledge.  Although product availability and psychological factors (control/self-efficacy) were not significant moderators, their importance in shaping sustainable consumption choices is highlighted, emphasizing the complexity of barriers. The study also finds that sustainable consumption behavior moderates the relationship between environmental knowledge and cognitive dissonance (CD), suggesting that aligning actions with knowledge reduces psychological discomfort. This research provides valuable insights for developing interventions to promote sustainable consumption among young adults in Sweden. Despite these insights, the persistence of the intention-behavior gap calls for further investigation.

Den här studien har undersökt hur föräldrar till barn 0-2 år i Karlstad kommun konsumerar till sina barn inom tre produktkategorier; kläder, mat och leksaker. Syftet har varit att se om att få barn kan vara en drivande faktor för att bli en mer medveten konsument. Har personernas konsumtionsbeteende förändrats efter att de har fått barn? Enkäter och fokusgrupper har använts på fyra öppna förskolor i Karlstads kommun för att samla in data. Som teoretiskt ramverk har ekologisk modernisering, politisk konsumtion samt svag och stark hållbar konsumtion använts. Inom de tre produktkategorierna går det att se vissa skillnader. Enkätsvaren säger att respondenterna handlar kläder efter behov, men fokusgrupperna talar om att de handlar för att det är roligt, ett fritidsintresse. Inom mat har många blivit noggrannare med att handla ekologiskt, främst till barnet. Det är dock inte en stark ståndpunkt eftersom de flesta väljer oekologiskt om varan inte finns som ekologisk. Kategorin leksaker hade de flesta deltagarna inte hunnit handla så mycket från än, då deras barn fortfarande är små. De uttrycker dock att det är en svår kategori att veta så mycket om och de går oftast efter vad barnet visar intresse för. Överlag går det att se ett visst förändrat beteende, men deltagarna saknar en helhetssyn över konsumtionskedjan. Resultatet visar också att föräldrarna är starkt styrda av sociala normer som bestämmer vad som anses vara ett behov. Deltagarna reflekterar inte över konsumtionsnivån utan håller sig inom svag hållbar konsumtion där de istället väljer att byta ut vissa saker mot mer hållbara alternativ. Avsaknaden av helhetssynen märks också genom att de inte praktiserar politisk konsumtion i så stor utsträckning, de räknar helt enkelt inte med sig själva i konsumtionskedjan. Detta är kvalitativ studie som möjligen skulle fått andra resultat i andra sammanhang. / This study has examined how parents of children, age 0-2, in Karlstad consumes for their children within three product categories; clothing, food and toys. The aim was to see if having children could be a driving factor to become a more aware consumer. Have the participants consumption behaviour changed after they have had children? Surveys and focus groups have been completed in four open preschools in Karlstad municipality to collect data. As a theoretical framework has ecological modernization, political consumption and weak and strong sustainable consumption been used. Within the three product categories it is possible to see some differences. The survey result say that respondents shop for clothes according to need, but the focus groups talk about that they shop because it is fun, a hobby. It has become more important for the parents to buy organic food, mostly to the child. However, it is not a strong position because most respondents choose to buy conventional produced products if they don’t have an ecological alternative in the store. Because most of the respondents children where still small they hadn’t purchased that many toys yet. They express, however, that it is a difficult category to know that much about and they usually goes on what the child shows interest for. Overall, it is possible to see some changes in behaviour, but participants lack a comprehensive view of the consumption chain. They don’t reflect on the level of consumption and so they pursue on the path of weak sustainable consumption where they consumes the same amount but change to more sustainable materials. The lack of overall vision is also evident in that they don’t practice political consumption to any wider extent, they simply don’t see their own impact on the consumption chain. The result also shows that the parents are strongly guided by social norms that sets the rules for what they consider to be their needs. This is a qualitative study and could therefore have gotten a different result in another context.

This thesis investigates the influence that cultural differences have in the designing of products and services that encourage sustainable lifestyles. This was researched through a case study of dishwashing practices in Mexico and the UK, and the development of a methodological framework for supporting designers working in cross-cultural contexts. Designers can shift user behaviour to be more responsible, and by doing this, reduce a product s impact on the use phase of its lifecycle. Nevertheless, designing products that successfully drive behaviour towards a more sustainable path can only be accomplished if they are conceived to fit the user and the specific context of interaction. In order to do so, designers must truly understand the users, and take into account the complex web of factors that lay behind individual behaviour. A comprehensive review of the literature established an understanding of human behaviour and the emergence and evolution of practices and routines. This brought to light the diverse behavioural patterns in different contexts; and was further investigated with a scoping study in two different locations (Mexico and the UK), exploring general water consuming practices in the home, specifically manual dishwashing practices. The preliminary findings shaped a study that aimed to deepen the understanding of these practices in the selected sites, involving the use of Cultural Probes and videoing people in their common kitchen environment. A robust and clear image of washing-up practices emerged with rich and detailed data presented in different media, ideal to be implemented in a design process. To this end, a series of multicultural Personas were created as the direct outcome of the Cultural Probes and the scoping study, giving way to the design studies phase of the project, carried out with industrial design students in Mexico and the UK. A design brief for sustainable washing up practices was delivered. Design experiments were used to provide interesting evidence of the influence in the design process of the designers understanding of the target user. The findings indicate that designers benefit from exploration and creativity tools tailored directly from the user-research findings in the early design process. This increases the level of empathy towards the user, particularly making it easier to design for users with different needs and contexts than the designers themselves. It also helps designers to better apply design for sustainable behaviour framework to their concept designs.

Ce travail se propose d’analyser les procédés mis en place afin d’amorcer des changements de comportement, et de rendre plus durables les pratiques quotidiennes de consommation et de gestion des déchets. Nous cherchons à savoir si les valeurs, seules, plébiscitées actuellement, sont explicatives ou non, du changement, et s’il y a des contraintes fortes qui empêchent l’adoption de pratiques plus durables. Face à l’injonction participative actuelle sur les questions environnementales, nous avons étudié un atelier de démocratie participative, ayant pour objectif d’insuffler des changements de comportement chez ses participants. En une deuxième partie, nous avons analysé les théories actuelles en sciences humaines et sociales, afin de faire émerger d’autres leviers que celui de la démocratie participative.Ce travail montre que la démocratie participative émerge à partir d’acteurs intellectuels ou de militants idéalistes pour résoudre des problèmes de légitimité politique, de confiance et d’efficacité. Mais cet idéalisme, lequel est la condition du lancement de l’action, se heurte à une réalité sous contraintes qui demande de forts ajustements avec l’idéal, entrainant des changements d’usage limités, ce qui peut provoquer un découragement des pionniers/militants ou une fuite dans un imaginaire « eco-Fasciste », autoritaire ou utopique. Nous avons également pu observer, par l’analyse des théories d’action en sciences humaines et sociales, l’importance d’une réflexion portant sur les échelles d’observation pour analyser les changements de comportement. En effet, les échelles micro-Individuelle et microsociale, centrées notamment sur l’espace domestique et les usages, ne peuvent se suffire à elles-Mêmes. Elles sont encastrées dans les échelles méso et macro sociales, qui mettent en exergue des valeurs propres, des effets d’appartenances et de régulation sociale. / The aim of this research is to analyze the processes established to modify behaviors and make them more sustainable, in everyday practices of consumption and waste management. We want to know whether the currently recognized values alone are explanatory of changing behaviors, and whether there are strong constraints involved in adopting more sustainable practices. In view of the current concern with environmental issues, we studied a procedure in participatory democracy designed to change participants’ behavior. Secondly, we analyzed current theories in social sciences in order to identify forces other than this political one. The research shows that participatory democracy results from intellectual actors or idealistic activists, who try to solve problems of political legitimacy, trust, and efficiency. But their idealism, which sparks the start of the action, faces strong constraints, requires adjustments to their ideal. These adjustments explain why changes of behavior are limited, which may discourage pioneers and activists, or alter the imaginary of "eco-Fascists", utopians, or authoritarians. In analyzing the theories of action in social sciences, we also observed the importance of scales of observation: the micro-Individual level and micro-Social level (in particular domestic space and practices) cannot be analyzed alone. They are embedded in the meso- and macro-Social levels, which highlight eigenvalues and the effects of membership and social regulation in daily practices.

Thema der vorliegenden Arbeit ist die Bedeutung eines nahräumlichen Angebots an umweltfreundlichen Lebensmitteln für die Umweltauswirkungen des Lebensmitteleinkaufs. Die betrachteten Umweltauswirkungen gehen über die Produktwahl hinaus und schließen sowohl die Einkaufsmobilität als auch die Wahl der Einkaufsstätte mit ein. Für die Umweltauswirkungen ist von besonderem Interesse, ob bei einem fehlenden nahräumlichen Angebot auf weiter entfernt gelegene Einkaufsmöglichkeiten zurückgegriffen wird. Diese Fragen wurden am Beispiel des Lebensmitteleinkaufs in sechs Berliner Wohngebieten empirisch untersucht, wobei qualitative Methoden (Interviews) und quantitative Methoden (Befragung und Kartierung) kombiniert wurden. Die empirischen Befunde zeigen, dass die Angebotssituation in den untersuchten innerstädtischen Gründerzeitquartieren grundsätzlich besser als in den Großwohnsiedlungen und Einfamilienhausgebieten am Stadtrand ist. Insbesondere die Bioeinkaufsstätten sind für diese Unterschiede verantwortlich, da das Angebot an umweltfreundlichen Lebensmitteln im konventionellen Lebensmitteleinzelhandel von geringem Umfang und wenig bekannt ist. Ebenso wie beim Angebot bestehen bei der Nachfrage nach umweltfreundlichen Lebensmitteln Differenzen zwischen den untersuchten Wohngebieten. So kaufen die BewohnerInnen der Gründerzeitquartiere umweltfreundliche Produkte, insbesondere Bioprodukte, am häufigsten ein. Die Ergebnisse der Untersuchung zeigen, dass das nahräumliche Angebot eine entscheidende Rolle für den Kauf umweltfreundlicher Produkte spielt. Die im Rahmen dieser Arbeit gebildeten "Umwelteinkaufstypen" zeigen die divergierende Verhaltensweisen der KonsumentInnen beim Einkaufen in Abhängigkeit der Einkaufsorientierungen auf. Dabei verhalten sich diejenigen Personen, die in besonderem Maße umweltfreundliche Produkte kaufen, auch im Bereich Einkaufsmobilität besonders umweltfreundlich. / The influence of nearby shopping opportunities for environmentally friendly food on the environmental impact of food shopping is the topic of the present thesis. The environmental impacts considered exceed the choice of products and include shopping mobility behaviour and the choice of shop. Regarding environmental impacts, in how far shops further away will be visited if nearby opportunities are missing is of special interest. The present survey inquires these questions using food shopping in six residential areas of Berlin as an example. A combination of qualitative methods (interviews) and quantitative methods (mapping, inquiry) has been conducted. The results of the empirical study demonstrate considerable distinctions between the shopping opportunities for eco-friendly food in the different survey areas. The supply situation in the inner-city areas with tenement houses from Wilhelminian time generally surpasses the supply in the areas with high blocks of flats and detached family houses in the outskirts. In peculiar, natural food stores - concentrating in the inner-city areas - are of importance for these differences, as the supply of environmentally friendly food in the conventional food retail stores is rather limited and little known. Differences between the survey areas were also revealed for the purchase of eco-friendly food, especially organic food. The inhabitants of the areas with tenement houses from Wilhelminian time shop most environmentally friendly. Nearby supply has been shown to have an important impact on the purchase of eco-friendly food. Several types of ''environmental shoppers'' where generated, demonstrating the relevance of different shopping orientations for their shopping behaviour. Normally, shopping opportunities further away are not visited to buy environmentally friendly food. On the contrary, those persons who buy eco-friendly food often behave particularly environmentally friendly in the field of shopping mobility as well.

Submitted by Rosina Valeria Lanzellotti Mattiussi Teixeira (rosina.teixeira@unisantos.br) on 2019-02-14T15:47:44Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Rita de Cássia Peixoto Moreno.pdf: 2431503 bytes, checksum: 35261b5040f77905ea752d2836354608 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2019-02-14T15:47:44Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Rita de Cássia Peixoto Moreno.pdf: 2431503 bytes, checksum: 35261b5040f77905ea752d2836354608 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-12-05 / A denominada sociedade de consumo, ou seja, um novo comportamento social focado no consumo, representa um cenário de risco de esgotamento dos recursos naturais do planeta e de acumulação de um imensurável volume de descarte de resíduos. A preocupação com o meio ambiente, diante dessa conjuntura, é emergencial para se evitar a degradação ambiental. Repensar o consumo e seu papel para a sustentabilidade é premissa fundamental para o enfrentamento dos problemas ambientais. É nesse recorte da sociedade de consumo e de risco que se pretendeu refletir, na presente pesquisa, para o desenvolvimento desta tese, ou seja, sobre o papel do Direito do Consumidor e sua contribuição para a implementação de um modelo de consumo sustentável, diante das normas nacionais e internacionais que tratam do assunto. A pesquisa foi pautada na problemática exposta, investigando a possibilidade das normas consumeristas contribuírem para a sustentabilidade através do consumo sustentável em vários de seus aspectos, a partir de um diálogo de princípios do Direito do Consumidor e do Direito Ambiental. Assim, o objetivo central da pesquisa é verificar se o diálogo entre os princípios do Direito Ambiental e do Direito do Consumidor, com fundamento na teoria do diálogo das fontes, seria capaz de contribuir para um consumo sustentável por meio da sua aplicabilidade para a solução dos casos concretos, bem como para a interpretação das normas de cada sistema disciplinar. Para tal, o presente estudo apresenta o desenvolvimento teórico, compreendido pela pesquisa dos marcos internacionais do consumo sustentável, que abrangem conceitos doutrinários de desenvolvimento sustentável e de proteção ao meio ambiente. Na sequência, procurou-se explanar toda a pesquisa realizada acerca do Direito Consumerista, partindo de seu surgimento, sua evolução, seus princípios internacionais, até sua absorção pela legislação pátria e pela União Europeia, na intenção de demonstrar a semelhança entre as legislações e a incorporação dos parâmetros recomendados pela ONU. A seguir, apresenta-se o objetivo desta tese, ou seja, a contribuição da legislação consumerista para o consumo sustentável, abordando a teoria do diálogo das fontes e sua aplicabilidade no diálogo das legislações ambientais e consumeristas, expondo os princípios de ambas as legislações, para após realizar uma análise sobre a possibilidade do diálogo entre estes, culminando na reflexão sobre a efetiva contribuição do direito do consumidor para o consumo sustentável. Por derradeiro, o estudo apresenta as considerações finais, fundamentadas na pesquisa realizada e na sua análise, em conformidade com a metodologia pretendida, para, em ampla reflexão, concluir que há possibilidade da contribuição do direito do consumidor para o consumo sustentável e que a sustentabilidade tem que ser absorvida em uma dimensão ampla por todos os princípios e regras presentes nos sistemas normativos nacionais e internacionais, em especial pela legislação consumerista, que tem que se adequar aos seus imperativos. / The concern with the environment, given this conjuncture, is emergency to avoid environmental degradation. Rethinking consumption and its role for sustainability is a fundamental premise for tackling environmental problems. It is in this cut of consumer and risk society that we intend to reflect, in the present research, the development of this thesis, that is, on the role of Consumer Law and its contribution to the implementation of a sustainable consumption model, national and international standards that deal with the subject. The research was based on the exposed problem, investigating the possibility of consumerist rules contributing to sustainability through sustainable consumption in several aspects, based on a dialogue of principles of Consumer Law and Environmental Law. The central objective of the research is to verify if the dialogue between the principles of Environmental Law and Consumer Law, based on the "theory of the dialogue of the sources", would be able to contribute to a sustainable consumption by means of its applicability to the concrete cases, as well as for the interpretation of the rules of each disciplinary system. For this, the present study presents the theoretical development, understood by the research of the international frameworks of sustainable consumption, which embrace doctrinal concepts of sustainable development and protection of the environment. The aim of this study was to explain all the research carried out on consumer law, starting from its emergence, its evolution, its international principles, until its absorption by the mother country law and the European Union, in order to demonstrate the similarity between the laws and the incorporation of the parameters recommended by the UN. The purpose of this thesis, namely the contribution of consumer legislation to sustainable consumption, is addressed by addressing the "theory of source dialogue" and its applicability in the dialogue of environmental and consumer legislation, setting out the principles of both after conducting an analysis on the possibility of dialogue between them, culminating in the reflection on the effective contribution of consumer law to sustainable consumption. Lastly, the study presents the final considerations, based on the research carried out and its analysis, in accordance with the intended methodology, in order to, in broad reflection, conclude that there is a possibility of the contribution of the consumer's right to sustainable consumption and that sustainability has to be absorbed in a broad dimension by all the principles and rules present in the national and international normative systems, especially by the consumer legislation, that has to adapt to its imperatives.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T20:21:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Renata Cristine Ogassavara.pdf: 1040071 bytes, checksum: af7492d37db6bfcfe640e7b358bc96d8 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-08-17 / At first sight, sustainable consumption, theme that surrounds this dissertation, would not have a place at the financial system because it is frequently associated to the precepts of reduction, reuse and recycling of materials. However, the consumer may conduct himself/herself in a sustainable way by choosing to deposit his/her economies in the so called sustainable financial investments, which are supposed to use the resources credited to foster activities related to clean technology or to promote social projects, for instance. Taking this into consideration and the fact that mass consumption risk society has produced and still produces negative externalities which no one wants to deal with, this work aims to demonstrate that sustainable consumption is a fundamental legal duty derived from the constitutional duty of protecting the environment which must be observed by all people and all sectors. As a new model of pre-comprehension guiding human actions in time and space (LORENZETTI, 2010, p. 19) has merged, the environmental paradigm based on the Principle of Solidarity, its main thesis is that distributive function of Law has to make operational the social division of communal goods and evils. Based upon the inclusive legal theory of epistemology and transdisciplinarity, it is advocated that Law ought to recognize not only rights but also legal duties in order to make possible human coexistence, the construction of a free, fair and solidary society and the rights of future generations. Beyond that, the study vindicates that the sustainable consumption legal duty does not conflict with the national intense socioeconomic differences and with the value of dignity of human beings, whereas the environmental paradigm leads to models of legal implementation directed to compliance and not only to punishment and repair / À primeira vista, o consumo sustentável, tema que circunda esta dissertação, não teria lugar no sistema financeiro, pois é associado, com frequência, apenas aos comandos de redução, reutilização e reciclagem de materiais. Todavia, trata-se de uma visão equivocada, visto que ao optar por aplicar seus recursos em investimentos financeiros denominados sustentáveis, ou seja, que utilizam os valores neles depositados para fomentar atividades relacionadas à tecnologia limpa ou projetos na área de inclusão social, o consumidor atua de modo sustentável celebrando contratos de consumo de prestação de serviços. Tomando como ponto de partida a função distributiva do Direito e diante da constatação de que a sociedade de massas, do consumo e do risco produziu e ainda produz externalidades negativas com os quais ninguém deseja arcar, este trabalho visa demonstrar que o consumo sustentável constitui um dever fundamental no ordenamento jurídico brasileiro, fundado na dignidade da pessoa humana, derivado do dever constitucional de todos de proteger o meio ambiente e imperativo inclusive no Sistema Financeiro Nacional. Estruturada na teoria inclusiva em epistemologia da dogmática jurídica e em direção ao ideal da transdisciplinaridade, sua tese principal é que, ante o surgimento de um novo modelo de pré-compreensão que guia as ações humanas em um determinado tempo e lugar (LORENZETTI, 2010, p. 19) o denominado paradigma ambiental pautado pelo Postulado da Solidariedade , a função distributiva do Direito tem o condão de operacionalizar a divisão social dos bens e dos males comuns, instituindo não somente direitos, mas também deveres, a fim de viabilizar a coexistência e a construção de uma sociedade livre, justa e solidária, bem como de garantir os direitos das gerações futuras. Além disso, sustenta-se que o dever de todos de consumir de modo sustentável não colide com as desigualdades socioeconômicas nacionais, uma vez que o paradigma ambiental remete a modelos de implementação legal voltados ao cumprimento de objetivos e não somente à punição e à reparação

Purpose – This thesis aims to contribute to the understanding of the Chinese customers’ perception and acceptance of eco-conscious apparel (ECA) based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). The thesis further examines whether people would like to pay more for ECA and how the factor of willingness to pay a premium is influenced by TPB variables. Design/methodology/approach – The research design is based on quantitative methodology. The data were collected via a web-based survey, a total of 315 responses from Chinese consumers were analyzed with application of the structural equation modeling. Findings – Both attitude toward ECA and perceived behavioral control over ECA acquisition have positive influence on ECA purchasing intention. Willingness to pay a premium for ECA is only positively affected by subjective norm. There is no correlation between ECA purchasing intention and willingness to pay a premium for ECA. Implications – To raise Chinese customers’ purchasing intention, fashion company should focus their actions on disseminating environmental information and knowledge, and offer affordable ECA options with the properties close to traditional apparel. To evoke the willingness to pay a premium for ECA, fashion company can apply celebrity endorsement to add perceived social value into its ECA series. Such actions will contribute to formation of positive social norm and hence positive perception towards ECA. Meanwhile, the government can put more efforts into educating Chinese people about sustainability issues in fashion industry, formulating and implementing policies in favor of ECA consumption, so that a positive social atmosphere for ECA consumption could be created. Originality/value – This study is novel in applying TPB for examining the consumer purchasing of apparel containing recycled fiber in China. The thesis provides useful information to corporate practitioners on how to formulate ECA marketing strategies in China. Research findings are also of relevance for Chinese government by providing recommendations for formulating relevant policies to favor the ECA consumption.

A degradação ambiental proporcionada pelo consumo de produtos (JORGENSON, 2003) é fruto tanto da evolução de uma sociedade que se distancia da natureza (MORAN, 2011), quanto de suas reais necessidades (FRY, 2005). Da mesma forma, os interesses do mercado, de governos e de consumidores enrijecem a manutenção de uma sociedade hiperconsumista (FRY, 2005). Este fato é observado pela existência de políticas governamentais de consumo (corrente do consumo verde) que prezam pela rotulagem ambiental, depositam a responsabilidade da redução da degradação ambiental no consumidor (AKENJI, 2014), e que não consideram que o aumento da ecoeficiência, sem questionar quais são os limites ambientais impostos para a realização das atividades humanas, provocam um efeito de rebote que pode elevar ainda mais a degradação ambiental (HANLEY et al., 2009). Em contrapartida, a corrente do consumo sustentável afirma ser necessário repensar os níveis de consumo de modo a não ultrapassarmos os limites impostos pelo ambiente à realização das nossas atividades (AKENJI, 2014). Desta forma, a informação necessária para a corrente do consumo sustentável é aquela que indica em que medida as capacidades de suporte do ambiente foram superadas (ALCOTT, 2008). Dentre todos os instrumentos capazes de fornecer informação sobre os aspectos ambientais de produtos, a Avaliação do Ciclo de Vida (ACV) é o único instrumento desenhado para avaliar as consequências ambientais relacionadas ao ciclo de vida de um produto (CHEHEBE, 1997). Entretanto, as evidências encontradas na bibliografia indicam que os métodos utilizados pela ACV para mensurar as consequências ambientais do produto (métodos de AICV - Avaliação do Impacto do Ciclo de Vida) foram estruturados para calcular majoritariamente a ecoeficiência dos produtos, pois são poucos (ou não indicados pela bibliografia) os casos em que a capacidade de suporte do ambiente é avaliada por estes métodos (POTTING; HAUSCHILD, 2006). Diante deste quadro, esta dissertação se propôs a avaliar se os métodos de AICV existentes estão alinhados à sustentabilidade forte ou se estão alinhados à sustentabilidade fraca. Dois critérios de avaliação foram definidos com base nos princípios da sustentabilidade forte: (i) O resultado do indicador da Categoria de Impacto deve apresentar quanto da capacidade de suporte foi ultrapassada ou não para as emissões relacionadas ao ciclo de vida do produto - alinhado ao princípio (a) da sustentabilidade forte, de que as atividades humanas devem ser limitadas à capacidade de suporte do ambiente (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992) - e, (ii) Todas as Categorias de Impacto (CIs) do método de AICV devem atender ao requisito (i) - alinhado ao princípio (b) da sustentabilidade forte, de que não há substitutabilidade completa entre os diferentes elementos do capital natural (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992). Dos métodos de AICV avaliados (CML 2002, Eco-Indicator 99, Eco-Factors 2006, EDIP 2003, IMPACT2002+, MEErP 2011) verificou-se que nenhum método está alinhado aos princípios da sustentabilidade forte, pois os critérios (i) e (ii) não foram atendidos concomitantemente. Desta forma, concluiu-se que por não estarem alinhados aos princípios da sustentabilidade forte, os métodos de AICV avaliados não são capazes de atender à demanda do consumo sustentável por informações. Sua utilização demonstra que as políticas de consumo verde continuam a depositar a maior responsabilidade pela reversão da degradação ambiental nos consumidores, sem alterar a estrutura sistêmica criada pelos governos, pelo mercado e consumidores na qual o hiperconsumo prevalece. / The environmental degradation provided by the consumption of products (JORGENSON, 2003) is the result of the evolution of a society that distances itself away from nature (MORAN, 2011) and from its real needs (FRY, 2005). At the same time, the interests of the market, governments and consumers maintain the hyper-consumption society (FRY, 2005). This fact is noticed by the presence of government consumption policies that appreciate environmental labeling, lay the responsibility for the reduction of the environmental degradation on the consumer (green consumption current) (AKENJI, 2014), and do not consider that the increase in eco-efficiency, without questioning the environmental limits for human activities, causes a rebound effect that can further raise environmental degradation (HANLEY et al., 2009). In contrast, the sustainable consumption current claims to be necessary to rethink consumption levels in order not to overpass the limits imposed by the environment for our activities (AKENJI, 2014). Thus, the necessary information for the sustainable consumption current is the one that indicates to what extent the environmental carrying capacity is exceeded (ALCOTT, 2008). Among all the instruments able to provide information on the environmental aspects of products, the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is the only instrument designed to assess the environmental consequences related to the life cycle of a product (CHEHEBE, 1997). However, the evidence found in the literature indicates that the methods used by LCA to measure the environmental impact of products (LCIA methods - Life Cycle Impact Assessment) were structured to mainly calculate the eco-efficiency of products, once there are only a few cases (or no indicated by references) in which the environmental carrying capacity is assessed by these methods (POTTING; HAUSCHILD, 2006). Given this context, this work aimed to evaluate whether existing LCIA methods are aligned to the strong or weak sustainability currents. Two evaluation criteria were defined on the basis of strong sustainability: (i) The results of the Impact Category indicator should present how much of the carrying capacity has been exceeded or not by the emissions related to the product life cycle according to the principle (a) of the strong sustainability, which states that human activities should be limited by the environmental carrying capacity (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992) - and (ii) All Impact Categories of a LCIA method must meet the requirement (i) - according to the principle (b) of the strong sustainability, which states that there is no complete substitutability between the different elements of natural capital (COSTANZA; DALY, 1992). From the evaluation of the LCIA methods (CML 2002, Eco-Indicator 99 Eco-Factors 2006, EDIP 2003 IMPACT2002+ and MEErP 2011) it was found that any of these methods are aligned with the principles of the strong sustainability, once the methods do not comply with criteria (i) and (ii ) concurrently. Thus, it was concluded that once they are not aligned to the principles of strong sustainability, the evaluated LCIA methods are not able to meet the demand of sustainable consumption for information. Its use demonstrates that green consumption policies continue to place the greatest responsibility for the reversal of the environmental degradation on consumers, without changing the systemic structure created by governments, the market and consumers in which hyper-consumption prevails.