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[pt] Esta tese tem como tema a relação entre o ensino e a indústria de moda, no Brasil. Parte do pressuposto que existe uma distância entre eles impactando o setor da moda brasileira como um todo. O trabalho se apresenta como um desdobramento da dissertação de mestrado cujo enfoque se dava sobre a moda praia no contexto das relações entre design e corpo, na cultura de praia carioca. Na tese, o recorte no segmento de moda praia é mantido, mas o estudo se volta para o âmbito do ensino de moda. A moda praia é considerada um exemplo de sucesso da indústria nacional, por seu diferencial em termos de qualidade e design atrelados à cultura local. Verificou-se, entretanto, que o conhecimento relacionado à moda praia brasileira, embora ela seja reconhecida internacionalmente como referência, se encontra fragmentado e disperso. Há dificuldade na busca por profissionais bem preparados para este segmento, evidenciando a distância entre a sala de aula e o chão de fábrica. Uma distância que tem impactado o fortalecimento da percepção de valor conquistada nas últimas décadas em diversos aspectos para o setor da moda brasileira. Para entender como ocorrem as articulações entre o ensino e a indústria, buscou-se ouvir os atores envolvidos - representantes da indústria, do ensino de moda, designers, estudantes e empresários – a fim de propor, a partir da pesquisa de campo e de experimentos, recomendações para a elaboração de iniciativas estratégicas, utilizando processos de design, que aproximem a indústria e o ensino, impulsionando o setor e consequentemente o mercado de trabalho. / [en] This thesis aims to deepen understanding about the relationship between teaching and the fashion industry in Brazil. It begins with the assumption that it does exist a gap in between both that consequently impact negatively in the whole sector. This theses presents itself as a deployment of a master degree dissertation, in which the focus was on the beach fashion in the context of the relations between design and body, in the Carioca beach culture. The standards of beachwear design is maintained, but the study turns to the scope of fashion learning processes. The beachwear segment is considered a successful case study for the national industry mainly for its innovation in design, quality blended with the local beach culture. Even though it is rooted as a strong reference both nationally and internationally, it has been found that the knowledge and intelectual content it is still well fragmented. There are several issues finding skilled professionals, showcasing the distance still to be narrowed between the classroom and to become hands-on in the factory floor and production. This gap has not contributed to the strength of the added value perception that the segment acquired in the last decades. In order to understand how the articulations between teaching and industry occur, we sought to listen to the actors involved: representatives of industry, fashion teachers, designers, students and entrepreneurs. The goal is to propose field researches and experiments, recommendations to prepare strategy initiatives utilizing design processes that could have real impact to shorten the relations of the learning centers and the market, creating incentives to accelerate the sector and ultimately contributing to the skilled job market.

The purpose of this research was to identify the expertise of CAD graphics operators/managers in the design and marketing phases of textile/apparel product development. Additionally, the purposes were to determine the effect of CAD graphics on product development in the textile/apparel industry, and to identify future needs and uses of CAD graphics in the industry. A questionnaire was sent to 117 CAD graphics operators/managers. The results from the questionnaire were obtained through frequency and percentage distributions. The major findings of this study concluded that textile design and/or colorations and coloration of sketches were the major uses for CAD graphics systems. The shortening of response time of development of idea in design cycle was the major benefit of using a CAD graphics system. Future needs and wants were found to be mainly in the areas of better color control, matching and selection, better resolution in printing, and faster, larger printout capabilities. / Master of Science

Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements of the degree of Master of Technology: Fashion at the Durban University of Technology, 2014. / Over the past 20 years, it has become necessary for South African clothing companies to raise their operational standards to keep up with international competitiveness. Consequently, it was necessary for companies to invest in technology to improve turnaround time, a case in point being computer-aided design (CAD) pattern-making technology. However, currently, a skills shortage exists in the area of trained CAD pattern-makers. Therefore, the intention of this study was to address the skills shortage of CAD pattern- makers in the KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) clothing industry. A concurrent-nested mixed-methods research method was carried out within a constructivist worldview. These methods were used to, firstly, establish what skills are necessary for CAD pattern-making, and, secondly, to identify the reasons for the skills shortage of CAD pattern-makers in the KZN clothing industry. Different role players from the clothing industry participated in the study. The participants indicated that CAD pattern-making requires a diverse set of skills, which they ranked in order of importance. These skills can now be used as a guide by lecturers, trainers and clothing companies to identify individuals with the required potential to be trained as CAD pattern-makers. The reasons identified by the industry participants for the skills shortage of CAD pattern-makers, needs to be addressed through education, training and remuneration. Since companies have purchased the necessary CAD software, without skilled pattern-makers, the system is underutilized, thereby affecting their profitability and costing the companies reduced profit margins.

The multi-million-dollar medical uniform industry has not utilized advancements in garment and textile technology that could positively impact the protection of healthcare professionals and patients. In most cases the uniforms meet basic requirements – they clothe the professional in a recognizable way. Little innovation in design, function and performance, has been applied to these garments. This is particularly evident in the case of the stereotypical white lab coat worn by many physicians, despite evidence indicating that these lab coats may carry contamination and play a role in the spread of deadly bacteria. Healthcare Associated Infections (HAIs) are among the most serious problems facing modern medical care, costing millions of lives and dollars annually worldwide. This research investigates the design and use of the physician’s lab coat – an immediately recognizable symbol of Western medicine. The research identifies the medical, functional, cultural and symbolic roles of the lab coat within the hospital environment and beyond, to the larger the global society. This thesis examines the extent to which the design of medical wear can impact the effect of hospital-acquired infections, support doctor/patient relationships and enhance the performance and behavior of the healthcare professional by envisioning a future lab coat which offers increased protection for physician and patient, aids in communication and enhances the performance of the doctor by utilizing digital technologies incorporated into the lab coat whereby the lab coat becomes the only tool necessary for the physician.

Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo analisar o período compreendido entre a metade do século XIX e o começo do século XX a fim de identificar que aspectos e componentes da estética e valores culturais japoneses teriam sido eventualmente integrados aos movimentos artísticos europeus e ao design de moda. O interesse ocidental pelo Oriente sempre existiu, porém, foi intensificado após a abertura dos portos japoneses em 1854, depois de mais de dois séculos em reclusão. O encontro entre duas culturas tão distintas causou grande entusiasmo na Europa, com diversos autores que defendem que esta aproximação influenciou o rumo das artes, do design e de outros diversos campos, resultando em um movimento estético denominado Japonismo. Desse modo, esta pesquisa de natureza qualitativa, na modalidade histórica, gerada a partir de estudos bibliográficos e estudo de campo em museus e exposições, pretende expor exemplos e tecer reflexões sobre a importância do intercâmbio cultural entre o Japão e a Europa do final do século XIX e início do século XX, mais especificamente nos campos da arte e da moda / The aim of this research is to study the period between mid-19th century and beginning of 20th century to identify which aesthetic and cultural values aspects and components would eventually have been integrated to European fashion design and art movements. The occidental interest towards the orient have always existed, although, it was intensified after the opening of Japanese ports on 1854, after more than two centuries of seclusion. The encounter of such different cultures triggered enthusiasm in Europe, and several authors suggest that this gathering led the way of art, design and many several fields, resulting in an aesthetic movement called Japonism. Therefore, this qualitative research, on history, generated from bibliographical and field study in museums and exhibits, intends to bring into thought the importance of cultural exchange between Japan and Europe on the end of 19th Century and beginning of 20th century, specifically on art and fashion

Of the Crickets imagines the overlapping worlds of ethical ecological solutions to climate changed sustenance and the potential for collective excellence in female exclusive environments. Using garments, furniture, site-specific installation and directed performance, the project harnesses social and material sensitivity to mine solutions for idealized living.

The What If Collection is a visual narrative that confronts white supremacy, the social, economic, and political ideology used to subjugate black civilization via colonial rule and enslavement in history and via structural racism today. Many white people have been socialized into a racial illiteracy that fosters white supremacy. This racial illiteracy fails to realize and understand the destructive effects of Western dominance on the rest of the world, particularly on past and present Africa and her diaspora. In response, utilizing discursive design, the collection constructs a counter-story that depicts a shift in the power structure in which the white oppressor is placed in the historical experience of the black oppressed. Moving forward from the past, a contemporary society is visualized where black people are the dominant force.

University of Macau / Faculty of Social Sciences and Humanities / Department of English

This research addresses the effect of pedagogical ways-of-knowing in higher education design programmes such as Graphic Design, Interior Design, Fashion, and Industrial Design. One problematic aspect of design studio pedagogy is communication between teachers and students about the aesthetic visual meaning of the students’ designed objects. This problematic issue involves ambiguous and divergent ways-of-knowing the design meaning of these objects. The research focus is on the design teacher role in design studio interactions, and regards pedagogical ways-of-knowing as the ways in which teachers expect students to know visual design meaning. This pedagogical issue is complicated by the fact that there is no agreed-upon corpus of domain knowledge in design, so visual meaning depends greatly on the social knowledge retained by students and teachers. The thesis pursues an explanation of pedagogical ways-of-knowing that is approached through the philosophy of critical realism. How it is that particular events and experiences come to occur in a particular way is the general focus of critical realist philosophy. A critical realist approach to explanation is the use of abductive inference, or inference as to how it is that puzzling empirical circumstances emerge. An abductive strategy aims to explain how such circumstances emerge by considering them in a new light. This is done in this study by applying Luhmann’s theory of the emergence of cognition in communication to teacher ways-of-knowing in the design studio. Through the substantive use of Luhmann’s theory, an abductive conjecture of pedagogical ways-of-knowing is mounted. This conjecture is brought to bear on an examination of research data, in order to explain how pedagogical ways of-knowing constrain or enable the emergence of shared visual design meaning in the design studio. The abductive analysis explains three design pedagogical ways-of-knowing: design inquiry, design representation and design intent. These operate as macro relational mechanisms that either enable or constrain the emergence of shared visual design meaning in the design studio. The mechanism of relation is between design inquiry, design representation and design intent as historical knowing structures, and ways-of-knowing in respect of each of these knowing structures. For example, design inquiry as an historical knowing structure has over time moved from ways-of-knowing such as rationalistic problem solving to direct social observation and later to interpretive cultural analysis. The antecedence of these ways-of-knowing is important because communication about visual meaning depends upon prior knowledge, and teachers may then reproduce past ways-of-knowing. The many ways-of-knowing that respectively relate to design inquiry, design representation and design intent are shown to be communicatively formed and recursive over time. From a Luhmannian perspective, these ways-of-knowing operate as variational distinctions that indicate or relate to the knowing structures of design inquiry, design representation and design intent. This is the micro-level operation of pedagogical ways-of-knowing as relational mechanisms in design studio communication. Design teachers’ own ways-of-knowing may then embrace implicit way-of-knowing distinctions that indicate the knowledge structures of design inquiry, design representation and design intent. This implicit indication by distinction is the relational mechanism that may bring design teachers’ expectation that this and not that visual design meaning should apply in communication about any student’s designed object. Such an expectation influences communication between teachers and students about the potential future meaning of students’ designs. Consequently, shared visual design meaning may or may not emerge. The research explanation brings the opportunity for design teachers to make explicit the often implicit way-of-knowing distinctions they use, and to relate these distinctions to the knowing structures thus indicated. The study then offers a new perspective on the old design pedagogical problem of design studio conflict over the meaning of students’ designs. Options for applying this research explanation in design studio interactions between students and teachers are therefore suggested.