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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
191

Twelve Representative Patterns of the Period 1920 through 1945

Swartz, Henry Charles 01 January 1977 (has links)
The twelve patterns presented in this collection represent the period 1920 through 1945. It is in no way a complete study of the period, but a representation of garments throughout this period in sketch and pattern form. The patterns presented are complete working patterns in full scale with no seams allowed. The garments have been dated according to research into the period. In addition to the pattern, sketch, and description of each garment, construction notes are included to aid in the building of these garments. Hopefully this collection will be useful for theatre costuming or where ever there is a need for authentic patterns of the period 1920 through 1945. The collection of patterns will be housed in the Department of Theatre's costume shop. The garments studied in this collection were obtained from the Virginia Commonwealth University Apparel Museum, Fashion Design Department. My sincere thanks to Alex Bodea, Department Chairman for his help and support.
192

Vybrané aspekty práva módního průmyslu / Selected aspects of the law of fashion industry

Kamaleeva, Renata January 2016 (has links)
This thesis defines fashion law as a specific horizontal legal field that relates to the protection of design, materials, manufacturing processes, technology, shapes, lines, colours, finishing and labelling, trademark infringement and copyright protection. Moreover, it deals with crucial topics in the field of fashion law including licensing and enforcement of rights to the products available to retailers, manufactures, and fashion designers. In addition, the thesis studies the establishment and development of fashion law abroad, particularly in the United States of America, as well as in the Czech Republic. In this thesis, the definition of fashion design includes its features and unique remarks in comparison to other types of design. Further, the thesis thoroughly examines and analyses the protection of fashion design available to retailers, fashion designers and manufactures under Czech law, especially trademark protection, copyright protection, competition law and trade dress protection. It studies various sources of law, including case law, statutes, international treaties and soft law that relate to the protection given by the Czech and other legal systems. Moreover, it analyses the concurrence of the copyright protection of design and industrial design protection. Finally, the thesis studies...
193

[en] DESIGN STRATEGIES IN FASHION ENTERPRISES: THE INTERPRISES SUCSSESS WEFT IN FASHION DESIGN AT RIO DE JANEIRO CITY / [pt] ESTRATÉGIA DE DESIGN EM EMPREENDIMENTOS DE MODA: AS TRAMAS DO SUCESSO EMPRESARIAL NO DESIGN DE MODA NA CIDADE DO RIO DE JANEIRO

LUCIANA COSTA DE FREITAS 11 December 2007 (has links)
[pt] A dissertação Estratégia de Design em Empreendimentos de Moda - As Tramas do Sucesso Empresarial no Design de Moda na Cidade do Rio de Janeiro tem como objetivo identificar os elementos da gestão do design de moda aplicados aos empreendimentos de moda da cidade desde o seu surgimento, nos anos 60, ainda que a aplicação destes elementos tenha se dado muitas vezes de forma intuitiva pelos seus gestores. E, assim, avaliar a importância da metodologia da Gestão em Design aplicada aos negócios de moda. A pesquisa ambienta o sistema de comercialização prêt à porter, posteriormente, na própria cidade do Rio de Janeiro, primeiro realçando os elementos locais que se traduziram em um estilo carioca, para em seguida traçar um panorama do surgimento e desenvolvimento da moda na cidade e como eles se materializaram na indumentária e paralelamente num estilo próprio de vestir. A partir daí, são elencados alguns elementos de gestão em design (com foco em branding, gestão de marcas) que se aplicam à indústria do vestuário e, posteriormente, associando a pesquisa bibliográfica à verificação a aplicabilidade destes elementos citados em uma pesquisa exploratória, através das entrevistas qualitativas. É aqui, então que se materializa a pertinência destas ferramentas, técnicas e estratégias organizadas como uma orquestra, de forma a conduzir a marca, a notoriedade e a excelência junto ao mercado. / [en] The dissertation Design strategies in Fashion Enterprises - The interprises sucssess weft in fashion design at Rio de Janeiro city, focuses on the Business Success Stories (plots) of Fashion Design in the city of Rio de Janeiro with the aim to the identify elements of management in the field of fashion design and their application within the undertakings of fashion here since its emergence in the nineteen sixties. Furthermore how the application of these elements were often introduced intuitively by its managers, herewith evaluating the relevance of design management epistemology applied to business generically. This research depicts the overall ambience of the fashion system on a whole and subsequently that of Rio de Janeiro itself. It does so by, first emphasizing the local elements that were translated into a carioca style and then, by describing the origins and development of fashion design in this city and finally, the materialization of its clothing industry. At the same time it will describe how it developed into a local dressing style. From this point on it lists the elements of management in design that are applicable to the fashion industry, with branding management emphasis, and thereafter, validating it with the bibliographic research and qualitative field research of the cited elements. This is where the relevancy of the tools, techniques and strategies materialize, organized as an orchestra, in such a way as to conduct the brand and carry it onto the absolute renown and excellence of the market.
194

[en] FASHION DRAWING CUTS AND SEWS SIXTY S CULTURAL REVOLUTION: JORNAL DO BRASIL S ROLE IN THE BRAZILIAN FASHION FORMATION / [pt] DESENHO DE MODA RECORTA E COSTURA REVOLUÇÃO CULTURAL DA DÉCADA DE 60: O PAPEL DO JORNAL DO BRASIL NA FORMAÇÃO DA MODA BRASILEIRA

GILDA MARIA CAROLLO CHATAIGNIER 03 August 2005 (has links)
[pt] O objetivo dessa dissertação - Desenho de Moda Recorta e Costura a Revolução Cultural da Década de 60 / O Papel do Jornal do Brasil na Formação da Moda Brasileira - registra-se no desenho de moda, observado como uma forma de expressão visual, artística e cultural - destacando- se a sua relevância na imprensa. Origens, conceitos, inter-relações com várias disciplinas, especialmente o design, são observadas neste trabalho. Nosso objetivo nesta dissertação é tentar mostrar como os anos 1960, com suas revoluções culturais e comportamentais, são responsáveis indiretamente pelas mudanças ocorridas na moda e suas imagens - através das quais documenta-se a moda como um sistema peculiar caracterizado pela futilidade e pela efemeridade, não menos do que pela sedução. / [en] This dissertation s subject - Fashion Drawing Cuts and Sews Sixty s Cultural Revolution / Jornal do Brasil s Role in the Brazilian Fashion Formation - enrolls itself in fashion drawing, seen as a visual expression form, as well as an artistic an a cultural one - where one can emphasizes its relevance among press. Origins, concepts and inner relations are established, especially in which concerns design. Our intent is try showing how twenty century s sixty decade, within all its cultural and behavior, is indirectly responsible for the changes observed in fashion and its images - through what fashion is documented as a peculiar system, marked by its trifle and ephemeral way, not less than by seduction.
195

As tecnologias digitais no espaço acadêmico como instrumentos na construção do conhecimento do design de moda

Nascimento, Nelymar Gonçalves do 21 February 2014 (has links)
Submitted by Maicon Juliano Schmidt (maicons) on 2015-03-21T15:10:56Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Nelymar Gonçalves do Nascimento.pdf: 4481549 bytes, checksum: 21b5a514f949b28777aa459f24555974 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-03-21T15:10:56Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Nelymar Gonçalves do Nascimento.pdf: 4481549 bytes, checksum: 21b5a514f949b28777aa459f24555974 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-02-21 / IFPI - Instituto Federal de Educação Ciência e Tecnologia do Piauí / Esta investigação aborda a construção do conhecimento no campo da moda por meio do uso das tecnologias digitais, tendo como sujeitos os alunos no cotidiano do seu ambiente acadêmico. Esse estudo analisa o uso das tecnologias digitais como meio e fim do método de aprendizagem para o desenvolvimento da capacidade criativa do aluno. Para este fim, buscou-se verificar: a) a estrutura física proporcionada a esses alunos pela universidade; b) as metodologias de ensino utilizadas no âmbito dessas tecnologias; e c) a percepção dos alunos ambientados ou não com as tecnologias. Esta pesquisa fundamentou-se na teoria sócio-histórica de Vigotsky acerca da construção do conhecimento, na qual o sujeito se constitui psicológica e cognitivamente na interação com o seu grupo social pela mediação de instrumentos e relações constituídas ao longo da história. O método empregado para a produção dos dados utilizou-se da entrevista em grupos de discussão e a técnica de análise de conteúdo para a leitura compreensiva dos mesmos. Considera-se que o aprendizado dos alunos do curso pesquisado se constrói não só na interação com a máquina e com os seus softwares, mas também pela participação dos seus colegas e professores através da interação proporcionada pelo empenho na realização das suas atividades. Esse processo de mediação leva ao estímulo do desenvolvimento potencial de características imprescindíveis ao design de moda. / This research focuses on the development of knowledge in the field of fashion through the use of digital technologies, taking students as subjects in their everyday academic environment. This study aims to analyze the use of digital technologies as a means and end of the learning method for the development of creative skills of the student. To this end, we attempted to check: a) physical structure provided to these students by the university; b) the teaching methodologies used within these technologies, as well as, c) the perception of acclimated or not with the technologies students. This research was based on the socio-historical Vygotsky’s theory about the construction of knowledge, in which the subject is psychologically and cognitively in interaction with their social group for mediating instruments and relationships established throughout history. The method employed for the production of the data was used in the interview discussion groups and content analysis technique for reading comprehension thereof. It is considered that students learning of the course builds researched not only in the interaction with the machine and its software, but also the participation of their classmates and teachers through interaction provided by commitment in carrying out their activities. This mediation process leads to stimulating the potential development of essential features to fashion design.
196

Design de moda e design estratégico: análise do deslocamento da técnica de moulage para a etapa metaprojetual

Machado, Luciene 24 February 2014 (has links)
Submitted by Silvana Teresinha Dornelles Studzinski (sstudzinski) on 2015-06-26T13:21:31Z No. of bitstreams: 1 LucieneMachado.pdf: 6153860 bytes, checksum: 5a1406c717f371fcd2bbb426cb8779ed (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-06-26T13:21:31Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 LucieneMachado.pdf: 6153860 bytes, checksum: 5a1406c717f371fcd2bbb426cb8779ed (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-02-24 / Nenhuma / Esta pesquisa propôs uma associação entre a moulage e a metodologia do Design Estratégico por meio da etapa metaprojetual Dentre as modalidades de representação na Moda (uma das subáreas do Design), a moulage é uma técnica de modelagem tridimensional, a qual consiste em modelar o tecido diretamente sobre o corpo ou manequim, aplicada geralmente no final do processo de Moda, na etapa de Modelagem. O Design Estratégico, uma das vertentes do Design, é composto por uma etapa anterior à de projeto, denominada metaprojetual, a qual consiste na pesquisa e interpretação de dados do problema de design para direcionar a geração de propostas conceituais de projeto, denominadas concepts. Tanto o Design Estratégico quanto a Moda são áreas de caráter projetual e criativo que utilizam técnicas de representação como forma de tangibilizar e visualizar o conceito do projeto. O objetivo da presente pesquisa de caráter exploratório e qualitativo foi analisar o deslocamento da técnica de moulage para a etapa metaprojetual a fim de construir concepts. Para tal, elaborou-se um Exercício Projetual através da metodologia do Design Estratégico que consistiu em solucionar um briefing de Design de Moda, utilizando a moulage durante o processo de construção do concept. O exercício foi aplicado a oito duplas de voluntários, compostos por um designer de moda e um designer. Através de vídeos gravados durante a execução do exercício e de entrevistas abertas realizadas após o mesmo, analisou-se como as duplas utilizaram a moulage para gerar e representar suas ideias na elaboração dos concepts. Os resultados apontaram que a moulage, sendo utilizada de modo experimental durante a etapa metaprojetual, contribuiu como um estímulo para potencializar a geração e a representação das ideias dos participantes, bem como, auxiliou a construir, a visualizar e a materializar o concept. / This research proposed an association between draping technique and Strategic Design. Draping, a type of representation in Fashion Design, is a threedimensional modeling technique which consists in directly modeling a piece of fabric on the body or mannequin. It is usually done in the modeling phase, in the end of the design fashion process. The Strategic Design, one type of design, encompasses an earlier design stage, called metaprojetual phase, which consists of research and interpretation of the design problem data that drives to the generation of conceptual proposals, called design concepts. Both Strategic Design and Fashion Design have creative and project character that uses techniques of representation as a way to materialize and visualize their project concepts. The objective of this research was to analyze the effects of the displacement of draping technique to the metaprojetual phase to build design concepts. Through a literature review and with a qualitative exploratory study, it was proposed a Design Exercise developed with the Strategic Design methodology. The exercise consisted of solving a fashion design briefing using the draping technique during the concept building process. It was applied with eight groups, which one consisting of a fashion designer and a designer. Through videos and interviews it was analyzed how they used the draping technique to generate and represent their ideas in the concept building process. The results showed that the draping technique, being used experimentally during the metaprojetual phase, contributed as a stimulus to potentiate the generation and the representation of the designers' ideas as well as it contributed to build, visualize and materialize the design concept.
197

Criação autoral na perspectiva do design estratégico: uma análise de projetos acadêmicos de moda

Gonçalves, Ananda Sophie Quadros 29 August 2014 (has links)
Submitted by Nara Lays Domingues Viana Oliveira (naradv) on 2015-07-15T19:33:15Z No. of bitstreams: 1 ANANDA.pdf: 9173575 bytes, checksum: 1a5da2b577d5246da3ed64e1824128bd (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-07-15T19:33:15Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 ANANDA.pdf: 9173575 bytes, checksum: 1a5da2b577d5246da3ed64e1824128bd (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Nenhuma / O presente estudo parte da premissa de que a sociedade atual encontra-se em estado de crise pós-globalização, caracterizada pela estandardização massiva da cultura, lógica própria da moda estendida a outras manifestações da cultura. O design de moda reflete o modo de viver e pensar de uma sociedade, mas também age sobre esta, sendo capaz de produzir novos agenciamentos a partir de seus artefatos. Observa-se porém movimentos de recuperação da experiência estética subjetiva, manifestada na vontade do sujeito de ser singular. São movimentos de reação à massificação da criação, explorados nesta pesquisa, através do design autoral. Sendo assim, questiona-se como potencializar o ensino de projeto de moda no sentido de promover o design autoral a partir do design estratégico através da construção de cenários para o ensino de moda. Tendo como objeto de análise um curso de graduação em moda do Estado do Rio Grande do Sul, busca-se compreender o discurso da criação na moda, suas potencias e engessamentos. Como resultado, objetiva-se a projeção de cenários possíveis para o potencializar a criação no design de moda a partir do design estratégico com foco no metaprojeto. / This study assumes that contemporary society finds itself in a state of postglobalization crises, characterized by a massive standardization of the culture. Fashion design reflects a society’s way of living and thinking, but also affects them, being capable of producing new assemblages from its artifacts. On the other hand, there are movements towards the regaining of a subjective aesthetic experience, which is manifested on the subject’s strong will to be singular. They are movements of reaction to the massification of the creation, explored in this research trough authorial design. Therefore, the question here is how to boost fashion project teaching to promote authorial design from strategic design trough scenario building for fashion teaching. Having a graduation fashion course localized in Rio Grande do Sul State as object of analysis, this research seeks to understand the fashion creation speech, its potencials and constraints. As a result, the objective is to project possible scenarios to boost the creation in fashion design from strategic design focusing in metadesign.
198

Design de calçados para pessoas com deficência física: os prazeres do belo e do conforto / Shoe design for physically disabled people: the pleasures of beauty and comfort.

Roncoletta, Mariana Rachel 28 March 2014 (has links)
Esta tese possui os objetivos de investigar por que aspectos históricos e como aspectos ergonômicos e estético-simbólicos do design de calçados promovem efetiva inclusão sociocultural para pessoas com deficiência do aparelho locomotor. Esta investigação resultou na criação da metodologia Mi Piacce, que contribui nas análises dos prazeres físicos, psicológicos, sociais e ideológicos provocados pelo design de calçados aos usuários supracitados e verifica como os aspectos mencionados podem promover-lhes inclusão sociocultural. Método indutivo e combinação de metodologia qualitativa e quantitativa foram aplicados. No primeiro subproblema, por que aspectos históricos promovem a esses usuários efetiva inclusão sociocultural, utilizou-se análise comparativa entre fontes secundárias sobre a história do design de calçados nos séculos XX e XXI que resultaram nos principais estilos. Devido à carência de produtos ofertados no Brasil, concluiu-se que os usuários desejam estilos já familiares, considerados icônicos. Concluiu-se ainda que, enquanto o designer de calçados para a moda preocupou-se em manifestar o espírito do tempo, o designer de órteses e próteses valorizou os aspectos da funcionalidade do design. Observado que a mudança de paradigma foi incorporada pela WHO na classificação do ICF (2001), compreendeu-se por que a maioria dos projetos para pessoas com deficiência não considerou as dimensões socioculturais dos usuários. A pesquisa encontra-se sob o viés epistemológico do Construtivismo e da Teoria Interpretativista, especialmente da Teoria Fenomenológica quando analisou entrevistas semi-estruturadas com os usuários. Entrevistou-se dezoito indivíduos, cinco da área da saúde, uma especialista em design de calçados e onze usuários - nove do sexo feminino e dois do masculino. As entrevistas seguiram o Código de Ética de Pesquisas da CONEP. Utilizou-se como técnica de análises das entrevistas com os usuários a codificação e relação posteriori com a Teoria do Quatro Prazeres de Jordan (2000) para responder ao segundo subproblema - como aspectos ergonômicos e estético-simbólicos do design de calçados promovem efetiva inclusão sociocultural aos usuários supracitados. Primeiramente, os dados analisados foram tabulados qualitativamente, realizando-se, a seguir, as tabulações quantitativas por meio de estatística simples. Concluiu-se que cada elemento do design de calçados relaciona-se com específicos tipos de prazer e correlaciona-se com outros. Aos prazeres físicos foram relacionados os conceitos de equilíbrio, segurança e conforto físico. Foi observado que duas dimensões estão presentes nos prazeres psicológicos; na primeira, a realização de tarefas, encontra-se a facilidade e/ou dificuldade de manuseio e de manutenção e, na segunda, a emocional, estão os conceitos de auto-estima e bem estar. Aos prazeres sociais foram relacionados e analisados o desejo pessoal e a sociabilidade. Os prazeres ideológicos foram relacionados à responsabilidade social, desenvolvimento sustentável e ciclo de vida dos produtos. Verificou-se, então, como os conceitos mencionados promovem efetiva inclusão sociocultural dos usuários. As análises qualitativas-quantitativas das entrevistas resultaram em oito generalizações sobre o design de calçados para as pessoas em questão: percepção de maior incidência de pressão social em cerimoniais, desejo por prazeres físicos e por design de calçados que camuflem as restrições, preocupação com o alto custo dos calçados, dificuldade em encontrar calçados prazerosos, aquisição do mesmo par de calçados mais de uma vez, vontade de inclusão e reconhecimento da singularidade. / The aims of this PhD research are to investigate why historical aspects and how ergonomic and aesthetical-symbolical aspects regarding shoe design can with provide physically challenged women both effective social and cultural inclusions. This investigation resulted in the creation of Mi Piacce methodology, which contributes to analyze physiological, psychological, sociological, and ideological pleasures brought about by shoe design those specific wearers. Also, it verifies how these aspects could cause them social and cultural inclusions. Inductive method and combination between qualitative and quantitative methodologies were applied. In the first subproblem, why historical aspects could cause those wearers social and cultural inclusions, comparative analyze between secondary data about the history of shoe design in XX and XXI Century was applied, which resulted in principal styles. Due to the lack of Brazilian products, it could be concluded that the wearers desire known shoe design styles, considered to be iconic. In addition, it could be concluded that while the fashion shoe designer preoccupied in demonstrating time spirit, orthese and prosthese designer valorized the functionality of design. Once the paradigm change was incorporated into ICF Classification (2001) by WHO, it could be understood why the majority of projects for disabled people did not incorporated wearers\' social and cultural dimensions. This research relied on Constructivism Epistemology and Interpretativist Theory, especially Phenomenological Theory when analyzed semistructured interviews with wearers. Eighteen people were interviewed, five health professionals, one shoe design expert and eleven wearers - nine female and two male. The interviews followed the Brazilian Ethics Code of CONEP. It was used to analyze the interviews with wearer\'s the codification and posteriori relation to The Four Pleasures Theory by Jordan (2000) to respond the second subproblem - how ergonomic and aestheticalsymbolical aspects regarding shoe design can with provide physically challenged women both effective social and cultural inclusions. Firstly, qualitative data was analyzed, then, quantitative tabulation was analyzed by applying simple statistic. It was concluded that each shoe design element were related to specific types of pleasure and co-related to others pleasures. Physio-pleasures were related to balance, security and physic comfort concepts. It was observed that psychopleasures are related to two dimensions; the first one implies task accomplishment, i.e., the facility in handling and maintenance; the second dimension, which is emotional, implies self-esteem and well-being concepts. Socio-pleasures were related to personal desire and sociability. Ideo-pleasures were related to social responsibility, sustainable development and life cycle of products. Therefore, it was verified how these concepts can improve both effective social and cultural inclusions. Qualitative-quantitative analyzes from the interviews resulted in eight generalizations regarding to shoe design for physically challenged women: higher perception of social oppression on ceremonial occasions, desire for physio-pleasures and for shoe design which camouflage feet or leg problems, preoccupation with higher price of shoes, difficulty to find pleasant shoes, acquisition of the same shoe style more than once, wish for inclusion and recognition of singularity.
199

Desenho de moda: linguagem e dispositivo de mem?ria, identidade e cultura representadas na obra do estilista baiano Vitorino Campos

Rangel, Veruska Lima 15 December 2014 (has links)
Submitted by Ricardo Cedraz Duque Moliterno (ricardo.moliterno@uefs.br) on 2015-08-05T22:19:41Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Veruska Lima Rangel.pdf: 3073843 bytes, checksum: 247dd43d22672257b9dffe2ce9792230 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-08-05T22:19:41Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Veruska Lima Rangel.pdf: 3073843 bytes, checksum: 247dd43d22672257b9dffe2ce9792230 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-12-15 / This work aims to study the Fashion Design as memory, language, identity and culture, having its starting point from Vitorino Campos' work, a stylist from Bahia. The research has the overall objective to demonstrate how, when putting down on paper his project or when drawing, a stylist transforms his mental representation in a graphical representation ___ the fashion design that becomes language and memory device or memories ___ that by itself already works with time and awakens memories and/or oblivion, associating cultures and showing designer's identity. In this sense, an understanding of drawing as a visual record of fashionable it becomes a memory device , presents the language, memory , culture and identity that strengthens timeless way ( towards the transit times past , future or present, without reducing Cartesian duration of these ), with existing variables and overcoming the idea of objectification image . The research focuses both evocative and inspiring aspects of social and anthropological dimension of the design , as the technical aspect determining the achievement of these . Thus , this paper highlights , the universe of Fashion Design, the fact that the designers of the area generally look to the past references to the identity of this recreating times , and from there , the research investigates the production designer Vitorino Fields which demonstrates their parts inspiration from other eras. In this way, the work intends to contribute to systematize a knowledge concerning the analysis of fashion images within a broad perspective and based on specialized theory on the subject, linked to the substrates chosen since the title of the Thesis. Through the observation of designs shown here, it was sought to demonstrate the existing relations since the idea creation until the final piece manufacturing by the stylist.Thus, the research was cultivated in a way to show the Drawing's implicit or explicit sense relations from a documentary survey and a field research with semi-structured interview and the found data discussion. / Esse trabalho estuda o Desenho de Moda enquanto linguagem e dispositivo de mem?ria, identidade e cultura, a partir da obra do estilista baiano Vitorino Campos. A pesquisa demonstra como, ao desenhar (colocar no papel seu projeto), um desenhista, neste caso o estilista, transforma a sua representa??o mental em uma representa??o gr?fica e como este desenho de moda se torna linguagem e registro de mem?ria, ou mem?rias, pois evoca lembran?as e/ou esquecimentos. Este registro gr?fico est? intimamente associado ?s culturas, principalmente da moda, e representa a identidade do desenhista. Nesse sentido, o entendimento do desenho como registro visual da moda que se torna dispositivo de mem?ria, apresenta a linguagem, mem?ria, cultura e identidade que o fortalece de maneira atemporal (no sentido do transitar pelos tempos passado, futuro ou presente, sem se reduzir a dura??o cartesiana destes), apresentando as vari?veis existentes e superando a ideia de coisifica??o da imagem. A pesquisa se foca tanto nos aspectos evocativos e inspiradores da dimens?o social e antropol?gica do desenho, quanto no aspecto t?cnico determinante da realiza??o destes. Dessa forma, este trabalho destaca, do universo do Desenho de Moda, o fato de que os desenhistas da ?rea geralmente buscam no passado referencias para a identidade do presente, recriando tempos, e a partir da?, a pesquisa investiga a produ??o do estilista Vitorino Campos, que demonstra em suas pe?as a inspira??o de outras ?pocas. Por meio da observa??o dos desenhos aqui estudados foi realizada uma an?lise que partiu das rela??es existentes desde a ideia de cria??o at? a confec??o final da pe?a. A pesquisa buscou as rela??es de sentidos impl?citas ou expl?citas do Desenho, a partir da sistematiza??o de um conhecimento relativo ? an?lise de imagens de moda, de um levantamento documental, da pesquisa de campo com entrevista semiestruturada e da discuss?o e an?lise dos dados encontrados.
200

EXPLORING ILLUSIONS OF HEIGHT IN SUIT DESIGN

Lee, Michael P. 01 January 2018 (has links)
Objective: The goal of this research was to explore how the design of clothing, specifically the design of the suit, can create height illusions. Background: Taller people enjoy many advantages, such as increased income and perceived attractiveness. These advantages motivate people to try to appear taller than they actually are, and clothing experts provide advice on how to accomplish this. However, there is little empirical evidence to validate the illusory effects clothing might have on overall height perception. The few studies that have explored illusions of body size created by clothing design have been limited in two important ways – the test stimuli have included unnatural body shapes and have failed to include naturalistic context (i.e., surrounding depth and size cues available in real scenes). Method: In the first phase, participants (nonexperts in clothing design) provided suggestions for how to appear taller by changing clothes. In the second phase, participants 1) viewed photographs of a variety of targets wearing suit designs that are commonly believed to manipulate viewers’ perceptions of height, 2) rated the targets on traits associated with height such as income and attractiveness, and 3) estimated the heights of these individuals. This study focused on the potential effects of suit color, specifically overall lightness (light vs. dark) and monochromaticity (monochromatic vs. lightness blocking). The effects of these designs were tested with and without contextual information by presenting targets within a natural streetscape or on a white background. Results: In the first phase, we found that nonexperts provided similar suggestions as experts in clothing design, including those pertaining to monochromaticity and lightness. In the second phase, we found that estimates were more accurate with more contextual information, and that clothing can impact height estimations, where monochromatic outfits yielded taller height estimates, although other outfit comparisons did not have effects. Outfits overall did not impact ratings such as income and attractiveness, although estimated height did correlate with these same social attributes. In an exploration of the impact of contextual and target-specific cues other than clothing on height estimations, we found that height perception was potentially dependent on a variety of factors such as the target's race, location (indoors vs. outdoors), stance, and the presence of nearby people. Scientific merit: This study increased our understanding of the conditions under which illusions of size in simple geometric stimuli generalize to the manipulation of size perception in real-world scenes. Broader impact: A better understanding of biases in height perception is relevant to domains in which such estimates are used to identify individuals (e.g., criminal justice) as well as domains in which visual characteristics of individuals are associated with errors in judgments of performance-based merit. (e.g., personnel selection and promotion).

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