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No. of bitstreams: 1 TESE_Carlos_Eduardo_07_03_2017.pdf: 3832983 bytes, checksum: 89e588bade19d0adc1bc8ca3e779958b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-12-19 / Não recebi financiamento / This thesis aimed to elaborate a proposal of a business model with strategies´ innovation for micro and small companies, researching companies of the fashion segment located in Goiânia, Pontalina and Taquaral de Goiás-GO, for the facing the current competitive market. The research was motivated by the observation and experience of the difficulties presented by companies in the industrial segment, particularly those in the fashion segment, to understand the context of innovation, identify their occurrences in internal (operational) and external (strategic) factors and to integrate them to the practices of business management. In addition, mainly, to use them for the development and definition of innovation strategies as mechanisms of competitive advantage and insertion in the market. Looking this perspective and considering the globalized world, where micro and small Brazilian business are inserted which has been causing intense transformations in the business environment and which has led companies from all over the world to reconfigure themselves and seek ways to foster competitiveness, we have sought to analyze the innovation with a systemic and integrated way to the strategies and models of management of the companies evaluating the performance of the strategic and operational factors, observing its structural aspects, processes, products, commercialization competitiveness and socioeconomic sustainability among others. The information was raise through a questionnaire application that allowed characterizing the occurrences of innovation in the operational and strategic factors of the companies surveyed. Considering this, sought observe the learning and knowledge factors that stimulate the innovative processes and presenting a business model proposal with innovation strategies for micro and small business, taking into account the requirements of the importance, significance and relevance of innovation for these enterprise. In this way, it tried to establish the adherence between the business practice and the academic knowledge, establishing the relationship between the innovation, looking for to integrate to the strategies and models of management of the companies. It also sough associated it with the concepts and theoretical studies obtained through a bibliographical, theoretical and conceptual review on the themes of innovation, strategy, competitiveness, business model and micro and small enterprises. It was an empirical research, of an exploratory descriptive nature, of an applied nature, with quantitative approach insofar as it observed numerical and qualitative aspects, insofar as it collected information through individual interviews. The data collection was carry out with 45 companies from the fashion segment of Goiânia, Pontalina and Taquaral de Goiás-GO. It was take through a structured questionnaire applying in-depth interviews, the data were process and analyzed using the Survey Win 4.0, and the Excel software is resulting in the characterization of the operational and strategic factors that allowed the presentation of the business model proposal with innovation strategies. This research will contribute to promove some reflection and to improve the understanding of elements that can compose the innovation strategies aimed at micro and small companies. / Esta tese objetivou elaborar uma proposta de modelo de negócio com estratégias de inovação para empresas de micro e pequeno porte, por meio da realização de um estudo nas empresas do segmento de moda dos municípios de Goiânia, Pontalina e Taquaral de Goiás-GO, para o enfrentamento do atual mercado competitivo. A pesquisa foi motivada pela observação e vivência das dificuldades apresentadas por empresas do segmento industrial, particularmente as do segmento de moda, para entender o contexto da inovação, identificar as suas ocorrências nos fatores internos (operacionais) e externos (estratégicos), integrá-las às práticas de gestão empresarial e, principalmente, utilizá-las para o desenvolvimento e definição de estratégias de inovação como mecanismos de vantagem competitiva e inserção no mercado. Nesta perspectiva e considerando o contexto de mundo globalizado onde as micro e pequenas empresas brasileiras estão inseridas, que vem causando intensas transformações no ambiente dos negócios e que levou empresas do mundo todo a se reconfigurarem e buscarem formas de fomentar a competitividade, buscou-se analisar a inovação de forma sistêmica e integrada às estratégias e modelos de gestão das empresas avaliando a atuação dos fatores estratégicos e operacionais, observando seus aspectos estruturais, de processos, produtos, comercialização, competitividade e sustentabilidade socioeconômica entre outros. As informações foram levantadas por meio da aplicação de questionário que permitiu caracterizar as ocorrências da inovação nos fatores operacionais e estratégicos das empresas pesquisadas, observar os fatores de aprendizagem e conhecimento que estimulam os processos inovativos e apresentar uma proposta de modelo de negócio com estratégias de inovação para as micro e pequenas empresas, levando em conta os requisitos da importância, do significado e da relevância da inovação para estas empresas. Buscou-se, desta forma, estabelecer a aderência entre a prática empresarial e o conhecimento acadêmico, estabelecendo a relação entre a inovação integrada às estratégias e modelos de gestão das empresas, associados aos conceitos e estudos teóricos obtidos por meio de revisão bibliográfica, teórica e conceitual sobre os temas inovação, estratégia, competitividade, modelo de negócio e micro e pequenas empresas Tratou-se de uma pesquisa empírica, de caráter descritivo exploratório, de natureza aplicada, com abordagem quantitativa na medida em que observou aspectos numéricos e qualitativa por coletar informações por meio de entrevistas individuais. A coleta de dados foi realizada com 45 empresas do segmento de moda dos municípios de Goiânia, Pontalina e Taquaral de Goiás-GO, por meio de questionário estruturado aplicando entrevistas em profundidade e os dados foram tratados e analisados utilizando os softwares SurveyWin 4.0 e Excell obtendo como resultado a caracterização dos fatores operacionais e estratégicos que permitiram a apresentação da proposta de modelo de negócio com estratégias de inovação. Esta pesquisa irá contribuir para a reflexão e melhor compreensão de elementos que podem compor as estratégias de inovação voltadas para empresas de micro e pequeno porte.

O objetivo principal desta tese é desenvolver um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências (competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais). Para alcançar o objetivo geral, foram elaborados os objetivos específicos, que correspondem aos cinco artigos constituintes desta tese. O primeiro artigo tem como proposta identificar as competências e delinear como estas relacionam-se e articulam-se no âmbito da Gestão de Design, por meio de uma revisão sistemática de literatura, identificando inter-relações e conexões possíveis sobre o tema em questão bem como aspectos relacionados às competências e à gestão de design. O segundo visa propor um modelo conceitual que evidencie relações e conexões entre aspectos atrelados às competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais na gestão de design. Já o terceiro artigo objetiva investigar o entendimento dos especialistas sobre competências em gestão de design, assim como as articulações e fatores intervenientes no contexto da indústria do vestuário da região sul do Brasil. Este artigo também apresenta como objetivo conhecer a estruturação das equipes de design e o relacionamento destas com a organização, identificando quem são os agentes participantes destas equipes. O quarto artigo visa a sistematizar o processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e seus envolvidos, identificando fases e atividades do profissional de design que são determinantes para a ocorrência da gestão de design no contexto analisado. Para finalizar, o quinto artigo tem como objetivo relacionar o modelo conceitual ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e suas fases bem como as atividades do profissional de design, resultando em um framework representativo da indústria do vestuário. Este artigo também objetiva avaliar a aplicabilidade do framework proposto para viabilidade e melhor estruturação da gestão de design em empresas da indústria do vestuário, pela ótica de especialistas do setor envolvidos com a gestão de design. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho tem caráter exploratório. Em um primeiro momento, foi realizada uma revisão sistemática de literatura, de natureza aplicada e, em um segundo momento, uma pesquisa qualitativa, a partir de um estudo multicaso, com realização de entrevistas em profundidade. Como resultado, foi desenvolvido um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências. / The main purpose of this thesis is to develop a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competencies (individual, collective and organizational). In order to achieve it, specific purposes were developed, which correspond to the five constituent items of this thesis. The first article is to show how competencies relate and articulate within the Design Management, through a systematic literature review, identifying inter-relationships and connections possible on the subject in question as well as aspects related to competencies and design management. The second proposes a conceptual model that provides evidence about relationships and connections between aspects linked to individual, collective and organizational competencies in design management. The third article aims at investigate the understanding of experts on competencies in design management, as well as the joints and intervening factors in the context of apparel industry in southern Brazil. In addition, this paper presents the objective of ascertaining the structuring of design teams and the relationship of these with the organization, identifying who the participant agents of these teams are. The fourth article aims at systematize the product development process and its stakeholders, identifying determinant moments for the occurrence of design management in the analyzed context. Finally, the fifth paper aims at relate the conceptual model to the product development process and its determinant moments, resulting in a representative framework of the apparel industry. This article also aims at evaluate the applicability of the proposed framework for feasibility and better structuring of design management in companies in the apparel industry, from the perspective of industry experts involved with the design management. The methodology used in this study is exploratory. At first, a systematic literature review of applied nature was developed and, in a second phase, a qualitative research from a multi case study with in-depth interviews was conducted. As a result, we developed a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competence.

O design geralmente está associado ao fator estético e funcional dos produtos. Porém, desde a década de 90 este conceito tem mudado e o significado deste termo tornou-se mais abrangente. Atualmente, esta palavra associa-se a fatores estratégicos nas organizações. O objetivo da pesquisa visa estudar a inserção da gestão do design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de empresas de confecção de Araranguá. O referencial teórico desta pesquisa mostra que nas grades curriculares das faculdades de design ainda não se enfatiza suficientemente a gestão nos cursos da área, impossibilitando que os designers desenvolvam habilidades gerenciais. Sobretudo, o presente trabalho visa analisar como as empresas de confecção de Araranguá, no Estado de Santa Catarina, inserem o design em seus processos. A análise foi realizada através de uma comparação com o Modelo de Gestão de Design apresentado pelas autoras Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) como elemento norteador desta pesquisa. O estudo de caso englobou cinco empresas desenvolvedoras de produtos de moda cuja análise dos dados qualitativos resultou em sugestões de melhorias para cada empresa estudada. / The design factor is usually associated with aesthetic and functional products. However, since the 90's this concept has changed and the meaning of this term has become more embrasing. Currently, this word is associated with strategic factors in organizations. The objective of the research aims to study the inclusion of design management in the process of product development companies making Araranguá. The theoretical framework of this research shows that in the curriculum of the schools of design still is not enough emphas is on management courses in this area, becoming impossible for designers to develop management skills. Above all, this reserach also aims to analyze how fashion industries in Araranguá, Santa Catarina State, use design. The analysis is performed through a comparison with the Management Model of Design presented by the authors, Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) as a guide element of this research. The case study comprised five companies that develop fashion products whose qualitative data analysis resulted in suggestions for improvements for each company studied.

O objetivo principal desta tese é desenvolver um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências (competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais). Para alcançar o objetivo geral, foram elaborados os objetivos específicos, que correspondem aos cinco artigos constituintes desta tese. O primeiro artigo tem como proposta identificar as competências e delinear como estas relacionam-se e articulam-se no âmbito da Gestão de Design, por meio de uma revisão sistemática de literatura, identificando inter-relações e conexões possíveis sobre o tema em questão bem como aspectos relacionados às competências e à gestão de design. O segundo visa propor um modelo conceitual que evidencie relações e conexões entre aspectos atrelados às competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais na gestão de design. Já o terceiro artigo objetiva investigar o entendimento dos especialistas sobre competências em gestão de design, assim como as articulações e fatores intervenientes no contexto da indústria do vestuário da região sul do Brasil. Este artigo também apresenta como objetivo conhecer a estruturação das equipes de design e o relacionamento destas com a organização, identificando quem são os agentes participantes destas equipes. O quarto artigo visa a sistematizar o processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e seus envolvidos, identificando fases e atividades do profissional de design que são determinantes para a ocorrência da gestão de design no contexto analisado. Para finalizar, o quinto artigo tem como objetivo relacionar o modelo conceitual ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e suas fases bem como as atividades do profissional de design, resultando em um framework representativo da indústria do vestuário. Este artigo também objetiva avaliar a aplicabilidade do framework proposto para viabilidade e melhor estruturação da gestão de design em empresas da indústria do vestuário, pela ótica de especialistas do setor envolvidos com a gestão de design. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho tem caráter exploratório. Em um primeiro momento, foi realizada uma revisão sistemática de literatura, de natureza aplicada e, em um segundo momento, uma pesquisa qualitativa, a partir de um estudo multicaso, com realização de entrevistas em profundidade. Como resultado, foi desenvolvido um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências. / The main purpose of this thesis is to develop a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competencies (individual, collective and organizational). In order to achieve it, specific purposes were developed, which correspond to the five constituent items of this thesis. The first article is to show how competencies relate and articulate within the Design Management, through a systematic literature review, identifying inter-relationships and connections possible on the subject in question as well as aspects related to competencies and design management. The second proposes a conceptual model that provides evidence about relationships and connections between aspects linked to individual, collective and organizational competencies in design management. The third article aims at investigate the understanding of experts on competencies in design management, as well as the joints and intervening factors in the context of apparel industry in southern Brazil. In addition, this paper presents the objective of ascertaining the structuring of design teams and the relationship of these with the organization, identifying who the participant agents of these teams are. The fourth article aims at systematize the product development process and its stakeholders, identifying determinant moments for the occurrence of design management in the analyzed context. Finally, the fifth paper aims at relate the conceptual model to the product development process and its determinant moments, resulting in a representative framework of the apparel industry. This article also aims at evaluate the applicability of the proposed framework for feasibility and better structuring of design management in companies in the apparel industry, from the perspective of industry experts involved with the design management. The methodology used in this study is exploratory. At first, a systematic literature review of applied nature was developed and, in a second phase, a qualitative research from a multi case study with in-depth interviews was conducted. As a result, we developed a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competence.

In the last decades sustainability has become a major topic in society. The population isgrowing, which has increased production and has resulted in a negative impact on the environment. The fashion industry has become a big contributor to the negative impact on the environment through fast fashion. Although consumers continue buying low price garmentson a weekly basis, more and more consumers are becoming more aware of sustainability. As aresult, sustainable labels have entered the industry with a controversy confusing consumers with the different labels available in all industries. It has also created doubt in the reliability of the labels expressed by consumers. Using sustainable labeling is a way of spreading information and awareness about sustainability and to understand how consumers prefer to receive information, and how this affects their purchasing behavior. This has lead to the purpose of the study, which is to explore Generation Y’s attitudes towards sustainability and sustainable labels within the fashion industry. The research was a qualitative study with an exploratory approach. The research used two focus groups from generation Y to collect empirical data about consumers’ attitudes towards fashion sustainability. The sample was purposively chosen with generation Y being the most consumption-oriented generation of all time, and more socially and environmentally aware which was preferred in this study. Conclusions that could be drawn from the study were that the participants knew about sustainable labels and could name several labels, although only in general and not in regards to apparel. The participants were also critical towards sustainability within the fashion industry due to overproduction and environmentally unfriendly materials that the industry uses, making consumer question the fashion industry’s real intentions. There is an interest insustainable clothing but it is perceived as too expensive and unavailable, where one must actively seek for sustainable products. A preferred way to receive sustainable information through labeling was to use a comprehensive regulatory requirement schemes, similar to the one the appliance industry uses.

O objetivo principal desta tese é desenvolver um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências (competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais). Para alcançar o objetivo geral, foram elaborados os objetivos específicos, que correspondem aos cinco artigos constituintes desta tese. O primeiro artigo tem como proposta identificar as competências e delinear como estas relacionam-se e articulam-se no âmbito da Gestão de Design, por meio de uma revisão sistemática de literatura, identificando inter-relações e conexões possíveis sobre o tema em questão bem como aspectos relacionados às competências e à gestão de design. O segundo visa propor um modelo conceitual que evidencie relações e conexões entre aspectos atrelados às competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais na gestão de design. Já o terceiro artigo objetiva investigar o entendimento dos especialistas sobre competências em gestão de design, assim como as articulações e fatores intervenientes no contexto da indústria do vestuário da região sul do Brasil. Este artigo também apresenta como objetivo conhecer a estruturação das equipes de design e o relacionamento destas com a organização, identificando quem são os agentes participantes destas equipes. O quarto artigo visa a sistematizar o processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e seus envolvidos, identificando fases e atividades do profissional de design que são determinantes para a ocorrência da gestão de design no contexto analisado. Para finalizar, o quinto artigo tem como objetivo relacionar o modelo conceitual ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e suas fases bem como as atividades do profissional de design, resultando em um framework representativo da indústria do vestuário. Este artigo também objetiva avaliar a aplicabilidade do framework proposto para viabilidade e melhor estruturação da gestão de design em empresas da indústria do vestuário, pela ótica de especialistas do setor envolvidos com a gestão de design. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho tem caráter exploratório. Em um primeiro momento, foi realizada uma revisão sistemática de literatura, de natureza aplicada e, em um segundo momento, uma pesquisa qualitativa, a partir de um estudo multicaso, com realização de entrevistas em profundidade. Como resultado, foi desenvolvido um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências. / The main purpose of this thesis is to develop a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competencies (individual, collective and organizational). In order to achieve it, specific purposes were developed, which correspond to the five constituent items of this thesis. The first article is to show how competencies relate and articulate within the Design Management, through a systematic literature review, identifying inter-relationships and connections possible on the subject in question as well as aspects related to competencies and design management. The second proposes a conceptual model that provides evidence about relationships and connections between aspects linked to individual, collective and organizational competencies in design management. The third article aims at investigate the understanding of experts on competencies in design management, as well as the joints and intervening factors in the context of apparel industry in southern Brazil. In addition, this paper presents the objective of ascertaining the structuring of design teams and the relationship of these with the organization, identifying who the participant agents of these teams are. The fourth article aims at systematize the product development process and its stakeholders, identifying determinant moments for the occurrence of design management in the analyzed context. Finally, the fifth paper aims at relate the conceptual model to the product development process and its determinant moments, resulting in a representative framework of the apparel industry. This article also aims at evaluate the applicability of the proposed framework for feasibility and better structuring of design management in companies in the apparel industry, from the perspective of industry experts involved with the design management. The methodology used in this study is exploratory. At first, a systematic literature review of applied nature was developed and, in a second phase, a qualitative research from a multi case study with in-depth interviews was conducted. As a result, we developed a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competence.

Background: The clothing industry is a significant contributor to Earth’s pollution, depletion, and exploitation. Businesses need to become sustainable, to find long-lasting solutions where economic, social, and environmental value is created. This has birthed a new form of leadership, sustainable leadership, that puts ethical behavior and the common good above the untrammeled pursuit of profit. Business leaders must transform the way they do business, which requires changes in leadership. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to, from a leadership perspective, describe and create an understanding of how Swedish fashion brands are changing their business to become sustainable and remain competitive, and of sustainable leadership. Specifically, by exploring how business leaders work with sustainability and the challenges they face. Method: This study follows a qualitative research method and an abductive approach. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with CEOs and sustainability managers. Secondary data was gathered from sustainability reports. Findings: The organizations have made changes to their business models. Business leaders face several challenges, such as issues of maintaining quality, consumer behavior discrepancy, lack of control over suppliers, and insufficient technology. Leaders were found to show practices of sustainable leadership to remain competitive and sustainable. Conclusion: This study concludes that organizations take different strategical approaches to remain sustainable and competitive. Business models Leaders must create long-lasting stakeholder relationships, a supportive company culture, set clear goals, and develop employees to be successful in sustainability work. New developments in recycling technology and increased consumer awareness are called for to further drive an increased sustainable development in the industry.

No description available.

In recent years, the consumption of clothes has increased extensively due to diminishing quality and low prices of garments along with ever-faster changing fashion trends. The linear business model results in products with a short lifespan and clutter of idle goods. With the growing awareness of environmental and social impact among the consumers; alternative business models (rental/lease, swap, resale) designed to intensify the utilization of clothes and enable sharing activities and collaborative consumption are emerging. However, the market share of these models is still low. This study aims to understand what are the barriers that hurdle; motivations that drive consumers’ adoption to collaborative fashion consumption; and how companies create and configure values to encourage consumers to partake in these innovative business models. Through a systematic literature review of 41 peer-reviewed articles, we found that the drivers for consumers towards collaborative consumption models are steered by economic factors, emotional factors, social factors, and sustainability values. While consumer barriers are namely, financial risk, arrangement, performance risk, social risk, psychological risk/lack of ownership, and lack of trust and information. It was also discovered that the collaborative fashion consumption models, in particular, rental/lease, swap, and resale are different in nature. Finally, we analyzed the existing literature and identified how companies can create, configure and capture values in these business models. This study is one of the very few to explore the interrelationship of the consumer-related drivers and barriers and business perspective. This paper can contribute relevant knowledge to academia as well as to the fashion industry.

Corporate social responsibility is a well-discussed phenomenon where existing researchers within the field of MNEs have found an increased interest in the CSR topic. Existing research between the two topics is still at an early stage where the main reason is the complexity of defining the CSR concept, as well as the MNEs cross-border operations in multiple contexts. Further, the fast fashion industry is generally characterized by frequent production and squeezed margins to maximize profit. CSR is significantly important for MNEs operating in the fast fashion industry due to their environmental and social impact, where they have to reconsider the impact of their actions. This thesis will examine two MNEs originated from Sweden and Spain to understand the differences and similarities of the selected MNEs strategic CSR focus and actions. Further, a qualitative research method has been conducted in order to fulfill the purpose of this thesis, where the empirical data has been conducted through secondary data. The common findings of this thesis indicate that both MNEs engage in multiple CSR activities, where the strategy mainly focus on environmental and social aspects. Further, the findings illustrated a clear connection to Carroll’s Pyramid of CSR where all responsibilities were included in the strategies. The outcome of the thesis indicates that both MNEs strategies involves actions to take responsibility for global and local issues.