This work explores the opportunities of working with multiplicity in fashion. This provides the freedom ofcombining inspiration from different times, places and cultures. At the same time, it is important that the viewerunderstands the fusion and that the work shows relevance to the current time in fashion. The selected parts inthis fusion are costumes from 19th century America and garments from the Russian designer GoshaRubchinskiy. The focus of this work is a fusion of these two worlds with the aim to find a new way of dressing.By finding methods that explore the complexity of Worldmaking, it led to a better understanding of theimportance of finding the balance between multiplicity and reduction. The materials from these two worlds arebased on items from websites relating to the origin worlds. These items are then developed with inspirationfrom both pleasure and insight. This collection started with two worlds that resulted in a lineup of seven looks. These looks have come torepresent another world, but still contain fragments that can be derived from its origins. This ”another world” isa young concept and eager to continue the creation of a new culture of fashion.

[pt] A tese oferece uma leitura pós-colonial sobre as novas operações de paz da ONU a partir do caso da Somália. O argumento central é o de que tais operações são informadas por uma velha lógica, a da teoria da modernização, a qual, por sua vez, deita suas raízes nas teorias racistas e evolucionistas do século XIX. Nesse sentido, a tese sugere que essas novas operações são guiadas pela mesma lógica logocêntrica que informou o imperialismo europeu e a ação subseqüente do Conselho de Tutela das Nações Unidas. A tese visa a desestabilizar o ineditismo das novas operações de paz por meio da análise genealógica de um caso específico, o somali. Argumenta-se que a construção discursiva das sociedades alvo de tais operações como atrasadas, falidas ou pré-modernas cria as condições de possibilidade para as operações de paz conduzidas pelas Nações Unidas em nome da salvação, do progresso e da modernização das mesmas. Logo, a produção da descontinuidade/inovação das operações de paz em relação ao passado colonial depende da construção da continuidade das sociedades alvo de tais operações vistas como sujeitas a conflitos ancestrais e endógenos, ligados a um passado pré-colonial; revelando, desse modo, uma dependência mútua entre as identidades moderna e tradicional. A tese sugere que o reconhecimento do caráter híbrido das sociedades pós-coloniais, presente na perspectiva pós-colonial, nos permite desestabilizar o discurso logocêntrico subjacente às novas operações de paz da ONU. / [en] This dissertation offers a postcolonial reading about the new UN peace operations from the case of Somalia. The central argument is that these operations are informed by an old logic, namely: the modernization theory, which, in turn, lays its roots in evolutionary and racist theories of the nineteenth century. Thus, this dissertation suggests that these new operations are guided by the same logocentric logic that informed the European imperialism and the subsequent action of the United Nations Trusteeship Council. This research aims at destabilizing the novelty of the new peace operations through the genealogical analysis of a particular case: Somalia. It is argued that the discursive construction of the target societies of these operations as backward, failed or pre-modern creates the conditions of possibility for peace operations undertaken by the United Nations on behalf of salvation, progress and modernization of such societies. It is argued that the production of discontinuity and innovation of the new peace operations in relation to the colonial past depends on the construction of the continuity of the societies subject to these operations which are seen as under ancestral and endogenous conflicts tied to a pre-colonial past; revealing therefore the mutual dependency between the identities modern and traditional. Finally, the dissertation suggests that the recognition of the hybrid character of the postcolonial societies by the postcolonial perspectives allows us to destabilize the logocentric discourse underlying the new peace operations.

Throughout the 19th century, large numbers of enslaved people were brought from southeastern Africa to work on Somali plantations along the Benadir Coast and Shebelle River. As these southeast Africans were manumitted or escaped bondage, many fled to the west and settled in the heavily forested and fertile Gosha district along the Juba River. Unattached, lacking security, and surrounded by Somalis-speaking groups, these refugees established agricultural communities and were forced to construct new identities. Initially these riverine peoples could easily access clan structures and political institutions of surrounding Somali sub-clans, which in pre-colonial Jubaland were relatively fluid, open, and—in time—would have allowed these groups to become assimilated into Somali society. British colonial rule however changed this flexibility. Somali identity, once porous and accessible, became increasingly more rigid and exclusive, especially towards the riverine ex-slave communities—collectively called the Gosha by the British—who were subsequently marginalized and othered by these new "Somali." This project explores how British colonial rule contributed to this process and argues that in Jubaland province a "Somali" identity coalesced largely in opposition to the Gosha. / Master of Arts