Esta dissertação discute a formação e o desenvolvimento da indústria de confecções da região de Criciúma, focalizando a análise nas empresas filiadas ao Sindicato das Indústrias do Vestuário (SINDIVEST). Inicialmente, é descrita a cadeia produtiva têxtil/vestuário, seguida da tecnologia de produto, processo e gerência, e fatores de competitividade para a indústria do vestuário. Posteriormente, apresentase o resultado da pesquisa analisando a indústria de confecções nos aspectos referentes à produção, subcontratação, relação com os clientes e fornecedores, gestão da qualidade, gestão de recursos humanos, planejamento da empresa e aspectos institucionais. O estudo procurou responder duas perguntas principais: 1) quais os fatores que contribuiram para a expansão do setor de confecções da região de Criciúma; e 2) qual a possibilidade de se consolidar. Ficou evidente ao longo do estudo a importância do setor para a economia da região, e que há possibilidade de consolidação; entretanto, o setor precisa reconhecer suas fragilidades e tentar superá-las, principalmente na busca de uma eficiência coletiva, onde as empresas competem uma com as outras, mas também cooperem entre si. / This thesis aims at discussing the emergence and development of the garment industry in the Criciúma region, centering the focus of analysis upon those enterprises affiliated to the Garment Industry Syndicate (SINDIVEST). Firstly, the textile/garment productive chain is described, followed by the product, process and managerial technologies, and the competitivity factors in the garment industry. Afterwards, the survey results related to production, subcontracting, clients and suppliers relationships, quality control, human resources administration, overall planning as well as institutional aspects are discussed. The study tried to find answers to two basic questions: (1) which factors have contributed to the garment sector expansion in the Criciúma region?; and (2) what is the sector's possibility of consolidation? Throughout the study the importance of the garment industry to the region's economy and its possibility of consolidation became evident; nevertheless, the industry needs reckoning its Weaknesses and try to overcome them, mainly in terms of searching for a colective efficiency where the enterprises compete one with the others but also cooperate among them.

Urban Socks consists of a simple and at the same time a novel idea in the Peruvian market: the making and marketing of colorful and extravagant socks with high quality designs for the male segment. The acquisition of these items will be through the brand website and will be delivered to the home addresses of the clients, in a period of no longer than 48 hours in Lima and 96 hours in the provinces. The income of Urban Socks will be through the sale of three presentations items: one pair at 29 PEN, three pairs at 59 PEN and six pairs at 99 PEN. For the first year, a total sale of 32,000 pairs of socks is estimated, corresponding to 630,198 PEN of the said income. Urban Socks will develop a digital marketing strategy that will allow the brand to have an active presence in search engines, such as the website and social networks. Additionally, these efforts will be along with digital advertising actions, as well as the management of public relations to have interviews and press releases in different media, such as getting influencers. And to develop and retain customers, promotions will be given in the first and second year. As of the third year, social responsibility campaigns will be carried out as donations. The investment of this project amounts to about 130,000 PEN, which covers the production of the items, and also the administrative, operating, selling and payroll costs. / Trabajo de investigación

[pt] O concreto têxtil é um material compósito com qualidades de alta resistência e peso reduzido, combinadas com potencial ecológico nas áreas de construção e arquitetura. No entanto, importantes aspectos mecânicos seguem irresolutos, postergando a ampla utilização deste material compósito. Um programa experimental é apresentado para apurar os parâmetros-chave do concreto têxtil, composto de ensaios de tração uniaxial em compósitos reforçados com carbono. Diferentes processos de fabricação, tamanhos de corpo de provas e coatings de tecido são utilizados. Então, um modelo de Elementos Finitos (FE) é proposto e validado através de dados coletados em ensaios de tração direta e round panel. O modelo de EF é composto por uma estrutura sanduíche, contendo matriz cimentícia, tecido e interface. Uma resposta constitutiva específica é atribuída a cada tipo de elemento. Os testes de tração uniaxial simulados apresentaram excelente concordância com os resultados experimentais, tanto nas curvas de tensão-deformação, quanto nos mechanismos de tranferência de esforços entre os componentes do material compósito. Os resultados obtidos dos testes de round panel apresentaram diferença nas curvas de tensão-deformação, mesmo com a presença dos mecanismos de transmissão de esforços no material. / [en] Textile Reinforced Concrete (TRC) offers high-strength and light-weight capabilities combined with ecological potential in construction and architecture spheres. However, important mechanical aspects of TRC are still unresolved, delaying broad utilization of the composite material. An experimental program to measure key parameters of TRC is presented, consisting of uniaxial tension tests in carbon-reinforced TRCs. Different manufacture processes, sizes of test specimen and textile coatings were used. Then, a Finite Elements (FE) model is proposed and validated with experimental data acquired from uniaxial tension and round panel tests. The FE model is made of a sandwich-like structure, containing cementitious matrix, textile and interface elements. A specific constitutive response is assigned to each phase of the composite material. The uniaxial tension tests simulated in the FE model showed excellent agreement with the experimental program, both in the stress-strain curve and stress-transfer mechanisms inside the composite. The results obtained from the simulated round panel tests exhibited differences in the stress-strain curve, but the stress transfer mechanisms were observed.

Syftet med denna kvalitativa studie är att ta reda på vilka kanaler och vilka diskursiva strategier två svenska modeföretag använder för att legitimera CSR. Företagen vi har valt att studera är H&M Group och Nudie Jeans, då vi ser att dessa två företag representerar två olika delar av branschen. Vi valde metoden diskursanalys för att analysera företagens hemsidor och hållbarhetsrapporter, och kollade även på företagens instagram. Det empiriska materialet bestod alltså av analyser på de valda företagens hemsidor och hållbarhetsrapporter, utifrån den teoretiska referensram vi valt för studien. För att analysera och kunna beskriva hur företagen legitimerar CSR har vi kollat i vilken utsträckning de använder sig av strategierna moralisering, rationalisering, auktorisering och narrativisering. När vi kollade på företagens instagram räknas hur många bilder av de 100 senaste som har mer CSR att göra. Studien leder oss till slutsatsen att hållbarhetsrapporten är den mest använda kanalen för CSR legitimering av båda företagen, men att företagen använder sig av olika diskursiva strategier i legitimering av CSR. H&M Group använder sig främst av strategin moralisering för att legitimera CSR, medan Nudie Jeans främst använder rationalisering på hemsidan och auktorisering i hållbarhetsrapporten. Även att Nudie Jeans verkar ha funderat mer kring vilka strategier som ska användas på de olika kanalerna och att deras hållbarhetsrapport håller en bättre kvalitet än H&M Groups, trots att den är betydligt kortare. Framförallt för att Nudie Jeans till större utsträckning använder sig av strategin auktorisering i form av användandet av trovärdiga tredje parter för att bekräfta sina CSR-uttalanden, vilket vi ser är den viktigaste delen av legitimering av CSR. Vi hoppas att denna studie kan förmedla betydelsen av CSR och att den kan användas till att hjälpa företag hitta den rätta strategin för att legitimera CSR. / The purpose of this qualitative study is to find out which channels and discursive strategies two Swedish fashion companies use to legitimize CSR. The companies we have chosen to study are H&M Group and Nudie Jeans, as we see that these two companies represent two different parts of the industry. We chose the discourse analysis method to analyze corporate websites and sustainability reports, and also looked at companies' instagrams. The empirical material thus consisted of analyzes on the chosen companies' websites and sustainability reports, based on the theoretical framework we chose for the study. In order to analyze and describe how companies legitimize CSR, we have investigated to what extent they use the moralization, rationalization, authorization, and narrative strategies. When we looked at the corporate instagram, we looked at how many photos of the 100 latest ones have something to do with CSR. The study leads us to the conclusion that the sustainability report is the most used channel for CSR legitimization of both companies, but that the companies use different discursive strategies in CSR legitimacy. H&M Group mainly uses the strategy moralization to legitimize CSR, while Nudie Jeans primarily uses rationalization on the website and authorization in the sustainability report. Also that Nudie Jeans seems to have thought more about what strategies should be used on the different channels, and that their sustainability report is of a better quality than H&M Groups, even though it is significantly shorter. Above all, because Nudie Jeans makes use of strategy authorization in the form of the use of credible third parties to confirm their CSR statements, which we see is the most important part of CSR legitimation. We hope that this study can convey the importance of CSR and be used to help companies find the right strategy for them to legitimize CSR. The following essay is written in Swedish.

Ridsporten är en av de största sporterna i Sverige. Ändå har den halkat efter i utvecklingen mot en hållbar framtid. Forskning visar dock att det finns en hel del strategier för hur man kan implementera hållbarhet i sin textila värdekedja, vilket ridsportföretagen också skulle kunna dra nytta av.   Syftet med denna studie har varit att kartlägga några av de svenska produktutvecklande varumärkena inom ridsportindustrin, för att se hur de arbetar med hållbarhet, samt vilka utmaningar och hinder som finns i och med detta arbete. En kvalitativ metod användes i undersökningen, där intervjuer genomfördes med svenska företag som tillverkar produkter avsedd för ridsport. Produktionen sker uteslutande utomlands.   Undersökningens resultat visar att de fyra deltagande företagen, jobbar på olika sätt med hållbarhet. Trots att de två framträdande och mest etablerade företagen är någorlunda lika till sin utformning och till sin vision om hållbarhetsarbetet, har man tagit olika vägar för att uppnå dessa. Avgörande faktorer verkar vara möjligheter att avsätta resurser till ett aktivt hållbarhetsarbete, och engagemang från anställda och företagsledning, men även traditionella faktorer spelar in. Där det äldre företaget arbetar mer konservativt med väl inarbetade strategier, såsom code of conducts och långa leverantörsrelationer för att skapa stabila förbindelser, tar det mer nyetablerade företaget en annan väg, där innovationer och forskning står i fokus.   Likheter med hur konventionella företag inom konfektion arbetar har utkristalliserats, vad gäller leverantörsstyrning och arbetet med code of conducts avseende arbetsrättsliga frågor. / Equestrian sport is one of the largest sports in Sweden. Despite this, it has lagged behind in the development towards a sustainable future. However, according to research, there are a lot of strategies for implementing sustainability in the textile value chain, which the equestrian companies could benefit from.   The purpose of this study has been to map some of the Swedish product development brands in the equestrian industry, to see how they work with sustainability and what kind of obstacles and challenges they face within this work. A qualitative method was used in the study, where interviews were conducted with Swedish companies that manufacture products for horses and riders. Production takes place exclusively abroad.   The results of the study show that the four participating companies work differently with sustainability. Although the two most prominent and most established companies are reasonably similar in their design and in their vision of sustainability, different measures have been taken to achieve these. Crucial factors seem to be the ability to allocate resources to active sustainability work, and commitment from employees and management, but also traditional factors weigh in. Where the older company works more conservatively with well-implemented strategies, such as code of conducts and long-term supplier relationships to create stable relationships, while the more newly established company takes another path, where innovation and research are the main focus. Similarities to how conventional clothing companies work has been identified, in terms of supplier management and managing code of conduct's regarding labor issues.

We need to talk you and I, in a place that is our own. There, we can see everything around us as less important. There, I can sink into you, live, and tell everything. Take back the power over you. Take back the power over the events that destroyed us both. There, I can become a part of myself, and then, nothing else is visible. I listen to the body without distancing. Free movement of the body without the guidance of others. I let the mind meet the body, in a way it previously failed. Whatever we go through here, we will do it together, and no one else is inside. If we get through this, can we come closer to each other and experience the mental freedom that includes us both? We need to talk you and I, in a place that is our own. A performative work with the weave as the tool

Orientador: Ederio Dino Bidoia / Banca: Edson Aparecido Abdul Nour / Banca: Carlos Renato Corso / Resumo: A falta de controle e consciência na utilização dos recursos naturais por muito tempo tem agora mostrado a humanidade suas consequências. A escassez de água potável ou própria para tratamento já é uma verdade para grande parte do mundo civilizado. As indústrias têxteis geram grande quantidade de resíduos com baixos níveis de degradação, incluindo os corantes utilizados no processo e há dificuldade de tratamento e disposição final desses resíduos. O presente trabalho visou a degradação de efluentes têxteis simulados através de processo eletrolítico, a avaliação da eficácia na degradação e a avaliação ecotoxicológica do efluente tratado através de testes com Lactuca sativa, Eruca sativa, Cucumis sativus, Artemia salina e Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Os corantes Acid Blue 40 e Acid Red 151 apresentaram toxicidade para as sementes de L. sativa, E. sativa e C. sativus, não apresentando toxicidade para A. salina e S. cerevisiae. O cloro residual livre se mostrou tóxico para todos os organismos tendo a A. salina como organismo mais sensível. A S. cerevisiae apesar de não demonstrar sensibilidade aos corantes nas concentrações analisadas, se mostrou sensível ao processo de eletrólise apresentando maior sensibilidade para os tempos de 30 e 40 min. Foi possível inativar todo o cloro residual livre gerado durante o processo com adição de tiossulfato de sódio ao efluente tratado. Conclui-se que o tempo de tratamento de 15 min é suficiente para remoção da cor inicial do efluente e apresenta menor toxicidade entre as amostras com a cor removida sendo este o tempo ótimo de tratamento nas condições em que estes foram realizados / Abstract: The lack of control and consciousness in exploring the natural resources for a long period has now showed humanity its consequences. The scarcity of potable water or water eligible for treatment is already a truth for most of the civilized world. The textile industries generate large quantities of waste with low level, including dyes used in the process and there are difficulties in treating and disposal of those wastes. The present study aimed into the degradation of simulated textile effluents through electrolytic process, the evaluation of the effectiveness in the degradation and the ecotoxicological evaluation of the treated effluent through tests with Lactuca sativa, Eruca sativa, Cucumis sativus, Artemia salina, and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The Acid Blue 40 e Acid Red 151 dyes presented toxicity for the seeds of L. sativa, E. sativa e C. sativus, and not presenting toxicity for A. salina e S. cerevisiae. The free residual chlorine shown itself toxic to all of the organisms, having A. salina as the most sensitive of them. The S. cerevisiae although not demonstrating sensitivity to the dyes in the analyzed concentrations, presented sensible to the electrolytic process presenting more sensitivity to the samples of the 30 and 40 min. It was possible to inactivate all of the free residual chlorine generated during the process with the addition of sodium thiosulfate to the treated effluent. The study concludes that 15 min of treatment is enough to remove the initial color of the simulated effluent and presents less toxicity among the color-removed samples being this the optimal amount of time of treatment in the conditions in which the study was developed / Mestre

Fundação Carlos Chagas Filho de Amparo a Pesquisa do Estado do Rio de Janeiro / A presente dissertação busca avaliar o impacto da liberalização comercial dos anos 90 sobre a indústria têxtil nacional. Isto porque o Brasil sempre protegeu sua indústria têxtil que, após a liberalização comercial, viu-se frente à necessidade de uma reestruturação a fim de ganhar competitividade perante as novas importações estimuladas pela redução tarifária. Assim sendo, esta dissertação apresentará o levantamento de dados e estatísticos do setor têxtil brasileiro a fim de verificar os principais efeitos ocasionados pela abertura comercial. Serão calculados ainda indicadores específicos para poder avaliar se ocorreram ou não ganhos significativos para o referido setor. Da análise realizada, dado o fim do Acordo Multifibras (1995-2005) e a inserção de novos mecanismos nos acordos internacionais, cabe ao Brasil preparar-se melhor para a competição num cenário mais liberalizado de comércio internacional com países que possuem maiores vantagens comparativas, como é o caso especial da China, principal concorrente do país no setor têxtil/confecções. / The present work searchs to evaluate the impact of the commercial liberalization of the 90s years on the national textile industry. Brazil always protected its textile industry that, after the commercial liberalization, saw the necessity of a reorganization in order to again competitiveness before the new imports stimulated by the reduction on tariffs. So, this work will present datas and statistics for the brazilian textile sector, showing the effects of the commercial liberalization. It will also present others calculations to be able to avaluate what were the causes for the related sector. Of the analysis, after the ending of the Multifiber Agreement (1995-2005) and the uses of new mechanisms in the international agreements, Brazil need to be prepared for the competition in a liberalized scene in international trade with countries that possess greaters comparative advantages, as in the special case of China, competitor of Brazil in the textile sector.

Dentro del sector textil-confección, las empresas productoras de hilos y telas son las que tienen un mayor impacto negativo al medio ambiente, debido a que manejan una variada y mayor cantidad de materias primas, mientras que las empresas dedicadas a la fabricación de prendas de vestir poseen actividades que son más benignas con el medio ambiente, ya que poseen operaciones en las cuales no se realizan cambios en la naturaleza de sus componentes (telas, elásticos, hilos, botones, cremalleras, etc.). En la presente investigación, relacionada con las medianas empresas del sector textil-confecciones, se identificaron que los principales impactos ambientales tienen que ver con la generación de residuos (retazos de tela, cartón, bolsas, etc.), la generación de efluentes líquidos (proceso de lavado), la utilización de químicos contaminantes (proceso de estampado y teñido) y el consumo de agua y energía. De esta manera, se propone un Modelo de Éxito de Gestión Ambiental, basado en la norma ISO 14001 y la Producción Más Limpia, que ayude a este tipo de empresas a eliminar o reducir los efectos de sus aspectos ambientales y así logren tener un buen desempeño ambiental que les permita ser más competitivos, rentables y sostenibles en el mercado.

En la actualidad, la aparición de un gran número de micro y pequeñas empresas desaparecen en menor tiempo comparándolas con las medianas empresas, es decir, las pequeñas empresas no logran desarrollarse y ser sostenibles en el tiempo en su afán de convertirse en medianas, debido a una serie de limitaciones o restricciones que se les presenta. Por dicho motivo, para dar sustento a la investigación y conocer la situación actual de las medianas empresas, se procedió a realizar encuestas a dichas empresas; y, a partir de ello, proponer un modelo de éxito en gestión del aprovisionamiento basado en las buenas prácticas del CSCMP's Supply Chain Process Standards, a fin de ofrecer los lineamientos sobre dicho proceso a las micro y pequeñas empresas; con la finalidad que logren alcanzar la competitividad y sostenibilidad en el tiempo. El enfoque aplicado en la investigación es la gestión por procesos, modelo empresarial recomendado por la mayoría de las organizaciones, el cual se basa en administrar de manera efectiva los procesos, haciendo énfasis en éstos para su identificación y caracterización, ello con el objetivo que las empresas logren flexibilizarse, alcanzar altos niveles de productividad y mejorar el resultado del negocio. Asimismo, las buenas prácticas del CSCMP's permitirá reducir la brecha que existe entre entidades locales e internacionales, con la finalidad de imitar la gestión que se realiza en empresas de prestigio en el mundo.