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Old medium, new design : in search of alternative aesthetics of Taiwanese aboriginal woven textiles in theatrical costume designsChen, Wan-Lee January 2012 (has links)
The main purpose of this practice-led research is to explore the relevance of present day Taiwanese aboriginal weavers’ work to contemporary society and how it might be integrated into today’s production processes, and used on stage as well as in exhibition. My research focuses on my costume design work for two theatrical productions, Africussion and Romeo and Juliet, for which the costumes were made with traditional Taiwanese aboriginal woven textiles, and is based on the assumption that the process of costume design affords a space to explore other aesthetic possibilities for aboriginal woven textiles, and that the theatre provides a context in which the conventional conceptions of Taiwanese aboriginal textile design can be challenged, broken apart and renewed. This research deals with both the theoretical and the practical considerations that apply to aboriginal weaving, and examines the intellectual traditions of the philosophy of art and aesthetics to be found in its theory and application. My thesis challenges the notion upheld by many of today’s aboriginal weavers that their ‘traditions’ are fixed and unchangeable, and argues for the importance of individual creativity if modern, contemporary needs and tastes in textiles are to be met by materials woven in the aboriginal way. My practice-led research is grounded on the techniques of aboriginal backstrap loom and weaving and basket weaving, which were learned from aboriginal weavers in a 20-month tribal fieldwork. This project approaches aboriginal woven textiles as artistic objects in the context of theatre productions and performances instead of as mere commercial entities. It also argues that theatrical costume design is much more than just the making of simple costumes that complement performances.
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Skådespelare, kostymer och kontrakt : en bortglömde del av teater- och kostymhistorienCarlberg, Marianne January 2016 (has links)
The purpose of this study - Actors, costumes and agreements - is to highlight an almost forgotten part of the history of theatre costume and theatre history. During at least two hundred years actors in Sweden were expected to contribute to the performance by their costumes. The study is divided into three parts: agreements, memoirs and conversation. Nine agreements between theatres and actors from 1778 to 1971 will be analyzed with focus on costumes. What do they express about the period, fashion and repertoire, audience? The theatres demand of the actors could be very detailed and shifting. Three memoire books and conversation with seven actors represent the actors view. Questions arise about actors poor economy, theatre culture and gender. The study will also show periods with connection between fashion and theatre costume.
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"Evig liten tjej" : Kostymdesignyrkets genuskodning: En kritisk diskursanalys / "Perpetual little girl" : Gender coding of the costume design-profession: A critical discourse analysisS. Thil, Yonna January 2023 (has links)
“Perpetual little girl” – Gender coding of the costume design-profession: A critical discourse analysis is a bachelor’s thesis in Performance Studies written by Yonna S. Thil in the spring of 2023 at Stockholm University. This study focuses on the gendering of the costume design-profession, as well as the gendering of theatre professions in general and attempts to answer the question “How does female gender coding affect the professional role of the costume designer?”. Fashion history and theatre history is used to map out the ways in which the costume designer is at a point of intersection between fashion, a highly feminized phenomenon, and theatre, a system which has excluded women from the practice for thousands of years. Statistics from Stockholm University of the Arts and interviews with both male and female costume designers working in theatre and film in Sweden tell the story of how the feminization of their profession affect the practice. The study includes comparisons with male coded professions in the theatre system, questions of the wage gap between male and female coded professions as well as discussions of the artistic genius and charismatic authority.
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