This paper describes my work with a historical craft and my attempt to find new ways to look at it, work with it and present it. I use the embroidery technique Hardangersaum which is all white, and where selected threads of the woven fabric grid are removed while others are wrapped and embellished. The artistic research leans heavily on the traditional craft but tries to isolate it from its historical baggage. I turn my focus to the grid of the fabric and I present some viewpoints from Rosalind Krauss and Hannah B. Higgins. I describe questions of scale and presentation that have emerged and show how digital animation has played a major role in the development and the communication of the embroidery work.

[pt] Os materiais e processos atualmente utilizados pela indústria naval na construção de embarcações de lazer em materiais compósitos apresentam diversos riscos à saúde do trabalhador. Resinas, tintas e vernizes liberam vapores tóxicos durante sua cura num processo que pode durar até sete dias. O presente trabalho, de maneira prática, buscou adaptar técnicas consagradas a materiais inovadores no estudo de processos produtivos alternativos, onde o contato do trabalhador com substâncias tóxicas fosse mitigado. Num primeiro momento procurou-se entender as propriedades das fibras e resinas de origem vegetal e seu potencial no desenvolvimento de materiais compósitos, bem como o estado da arte em que se encontravam as pesquisas correlatas no LILD (Laboratório de Investigação em Living Design da PUC-Rio). Em seguida, rabalhou-se no desenvolvimento de painéis em sanduíche laminados a vácuo. Por fim, as etapas se concatenam na construção de uma pequena embarcação a vela. Durante o processo construtivo e o convívio laboratorial buscou-se estabelecer relações com os métodos e materiais convencionais, situando a pesquisa mais no campo da técnica do que em um estudo puro da resistência dos materiais. Acreditamos que as características de trabalho são tão importantes quanto a resistência do material, principalmente quando se atua diretamente no processo construtivo. Desta forma, procuramos por materiais disponíveis e técnicas de simples implementação, com um mínimo de investimento em infra-estrutura e mão de obra, em busca de uma embarcação confiável. Técnicas de trabalho com materiais compósitos foram testadas devido as características do projeto da embarcação, uma canoa outrigger a vela: colagem, hand lay-up e laminação a vácuo. Os resultados foram promissores, traduzidos numa embarcação robusta e, ainda assim, leve e graciosa. / [en] Composite boatbuilding methods used nowadays represent several risks to worker s health. Resins, hardeners and varnishes liberate toxic organic vapors in the curing process that can take up to 7 days. The present work tried in a practical approach to adapt innovative materials with standard building methods in the research for an alternative productive process that can mitigate workers exposure to toxic substances. At first, we focused on understanding the properties of natural fibers and castor oil polyurethane resins and their potential possibilities on the development of composite materials, as well as understanding the state-of-art of correlated researches at LILD (living design free investigation laboratory). Afterwards, we developed vacuum bagged sandwich composite panels with the studied materials, which finally were used to build of a small sailing craft. Several issues were brought to debate during workshop cooperative work. Establishing connection with conventional boatbuilding methods showed the research was about technique instead of material resistance. We believe that the practical daily construction needs are as much important as the material resistance itself, especially if you aim to work directly on the building process. With that in mind we went for available materials and simple low cost technologies in the search for a reliable boat. Several composite materials techniques were tested due to the boat s project characteristics (an outrigger sailing canoe): bonding, hand lay-up, vacuum bagging etc. Results were promising, shown on a robust yet light and graceful vessel.

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Ce travail s’inscrit dans une tendance historiographique récente visant à mieux comprendre la « vocation industrielle (…) beaucoup trop souvent sous-estimée » du Sud-Ouest de la France. Il tente pour cela de reconstituer les trajectoires des activités textiles à l’œuvre dans le département des Basses-Pyrénées au cours de la période contemporaine, à partir de l'étude des entreprises et de leur environnement, des statistiques et discours sur l'industrialisation, et des « cycles de vie » des articles fabriqués et commercialisés. L’étude met d’une part en évidence l’importance, la structuration et la diversité des activités textiles : les Basses-Pyrénées se caractérisent en effet par la grande variété des fabrications, en renouvellement constant (tissage, bonneterie, confection), et s’imposent même comme le principal espace de production de certains articles à la diffusion internationale (bérets, linge basque, lainages des Pyrénées, sandales). Elles présentent en parallèle des filières complètes, parfois uniques dans le Sud-Ouest, pour différentes matières premières (coton, lin, laine, jute).D’autre part, le maintien sur la longue durée des organisations productives diffuses, le recours massif à l’énergie hydraulique et la domination de la petite entreprise familiale s’articulent avec l’adoption souvent rapide des innovations techniques et une forte capacité de reconversion de multiples centres industriels ruraux ou urbains.Enfin, bien que limitée par la concurrence des grandes régions industrielles françaises vis-à-vis desquelles elles peuvent apparaître comme périphériques, les trajectoires textiles des Basses-Pyrénées parviennent à s’inscrire dans différentes échelles, du local à l’international. Elles témoignent d’échanges techniques et l’élargissement du capitalisme familial s’inscrivent dans des logiques endogènes et exogènes. L’exploitation des opportunités régionales joue à ce titre un rôle prépondérant : proximité de l’Espagne, cohérence vestimentaire d’une vaste aire pyrénéenne, extension des débouchés par l’émigration et la demande touristique, exploitation de l’aura régionaliste du Béarn, du Pays Basque et des Pyrénées. La position excentrée des Basses-Pyrénées, tout en étant une source de marginalisation économique, est un facteur de dynamisme industriel certes limité mais solidement inscrit dans la longue durée. / This study comes within the scope of a recent historiographical trend to change perception of the industrialisation of the South-West of France which is often approached from the perspective of underdevelopment . It aims at reconstructing the « paths » of different textile industries in the Basses-Pyrénées / Pyrénées-Atlantiques from late 18th century to late 20th century, based on the study of produce, markets, producting organisations, firms, views and representations. The research points out the importance, structuring and the diversity of textile industries : complete industrial processes can be found in Basses-Pyrénées for several fibres (cotton, linen, wool, jute) and some products are produced and sold by millions (berets, sandals and, to a leaser extent, basque linen, wool of the Pyrénées...). The maintain of “soft” producting organisations, the massive use of hydraulic power and the domination of family businesses are also linked with fast technical changes and strong ability of industrial reconversion inside various industrial countries and small or middle-sized towns.In the end, these industrial “paths” reveal the economical integration of Basses-Pyrénées on different scales, from local to international, as regards raw material, markets or technical, or financial and human movements. The exploitation of regional opportunities plays a major role in the continuity of these textile industries : proximity of Spain, continuing consumption in the pyrenean area, emigration to America, tourism, regionalistic vogue for Bearn, Basque Country and Pyrénées.

This thesis deals with the handling of waste and linen. It is divided into a theoretical and practical part.The theoretical part describes the history of Česky Krumlov hospital and is followed by an in-depth look at the history and development of the handling of waste and linen in a medical facility etc. In the practical part of the research qualitative-quantitative methods were used in the form of observation, interview, questionnaire and secondary data analysis. In Česky Krumlov Hospital I observed the ongoing activities and gathered data. The research sample for the interview consisted of 10 respondents. The questionnaires consisted of 21 questions. A secondary analysis of operating rules, guidelines and waste management legislation was used. The main objectives of the research were to compare the system of waste and linen handling in Česky Krumlov hospital with applicable legislation and rules of operation. In so doing, to determine whether there are shortcomings in the separation of waste and the handling of laundry and in which department(s). In addition, to compare the production of waste in amount and time with regards to the use of disposable devices and instruments. Finally, to monitor the way employees separate waste in the hospital and compare the approach to it between smokers and non-smokers.For the purpose of this research five research questions and four hypotheses were put forward: V1: Does the procedure for handling waste meet legislative requirements and the current operating system? V2: Does the system of separation and disposal of waste differ in individual departments and if so why? V3: Can a more effective system for waste management be found? V4: Does the procedure for handling linen meet legislative requirements and the current operating system? V5: Can a more effective way of handling laundry be found? H1: The attitude to the separation of waste is different in smokers and non-smokers. H2: The sorting method depends on education. H3: The sorting method depends on the job position. H4: The sorting method depends on the amount of work experience of employees. Interviews were transcribed using MS Word 2007, and then processed using XMind 6. The hypotheses were statistically analyzed.In addition, information from my observations, interviews and the operating rules and directives for hospital staff helped me to answer the research questions. On the basis of the statistical findings all the hypotheses, with exception to H1, were confirmed. Hypothesis H1 was refuted. During the work all the objectives were met with exception to the fifth objective where problems relating to the quality of services provided by the laundry in České Budějovice Hospital, a.s. were identified. A comparison of the waste management system in Česky Krumlov Hospital a.s. with its operating rules, guidelines and legislation shows that overall the procedures correspond. There were just a few exceptions in the form of unlocked containers for infectious waste and a lack of signatures on labels of some of the staff responsible. During my observation no errors occurred in the separation of waste. The hospital has established a uniform system, whereby the procedures only vary according to the type of waste. The established system of waste separation in Česky Krumlov Hospital a.s. is very good, fully compliant with legislative requirements and is efficient. When comparing the production of general waste over time, the amount is decreasing. However, the amount of hazardous waste being produced is increasing. It was found that the attitude to waste separation does not differ in smokers and non-smokers and that university-educated workers separate less waste at work than others due to the type of job within the organization. Nurses recycle more and more responsibly. The same can be observed for employees with more work experience. I found minor discrepancies in the handling of laundry and the current operating rules.

Le travail développé dans cette thèse a pour but d’étudier le comportement hygrothermique de matériaux isolants bio-sourcés, et plus particulièrement les fibres de bois, le béton de chanvre, la laine de lin, la laine de mouton, le métisse® et les anas de lin. Ces matériaux, par essence naturels, présentent des spécificités liées à leur origine (animale ou végétale) et à leur structure (fibres, paille, matrice solide…). Leur porosité, très élevée, les rend réactifs aux variations d’humidité relative ambiante, ce qui peut impacter leurs performances thermiques et leur durabilité (comme pour tous les matériaux), mais également leur conférer des capacités de régulation. Dans un souci d’améliorer la connaissance de ces matériaux particuliers, nous proposons tout d’abord d’étudier l’impact causé par l’humidité sur leurs caractéristiques thermiques, principalement la conductivité thermique et la chaleur spécifique. Ensuite les caractéristiques hygrothermiques sont étudiées, ce qui permet de mieux comprendre les phénomènes dépendant des capacités d’adsorption, de désorption, de perméabilité ou de résistance à la vapeur d’eau. On se rend compte également de l’importance du gradient de température sur l’évolution des transferts hygriques au sein des matériaux. En plaçant les isolants bio-sourcés sous sollicitations aléatoires ou en conditions réelles d’utilisation, nous pouvons suivre leur comportement d’un point de vue expérimental. Le couplage à une approche numérique permet d’identifier les paramètres d’influence prépondérants, dans l’optique de la prédiction des transferts couplés chaleur/masse par une simulation dans des conditions particulières d’utilisation, comme la rénovation d’un habitat existant. On constate à partir de mesures in situ que ces matériaux ont une grande capacité d’adaptation à des environnements dont l’humidité relative est évolutive. / The work developed in this thesis aims to study the hygrothermal behavior of bio-sourced insulating materials, and more particularly wood fibers, hemp concrete, linen wool, sheep wool, material made of textile recycling (metisse®) and flax shives. These materials, which are essentially natural, have specific characteristics linked to their origin (animal or vegetable) and their structure (fibers, straw, solid matrix, etc.). Their very high porosity makes them reactive to the relative humidity variations, which can affect their thermal performances and their durability (as for all materials), but also give them a regulation capacities. In order to improve the knowledge of these particular materials, first, we propose to study the impact caused by moisture on their thermal characteristics, mainly thermal conductivity and specific heat. Then the hygrothermal characteristics are studied, which makes it possible to better understand the phenomena depending on the capacities of adsorption, desorption, permeability or water vapor resistance. Also, we realize the importance of the temperature gradient impact on the evolution of the hygroscopic transfers within the materials. By placing the studied bio-sourced insulation materials under random loading or under real conditions, it will be possible to follow their hygrothermal behavior from an experimental point of view. The numerical approach makes it possible to identify the preponderant influence parameters, in the context of the prediction of coupled heat and mass transfers by simulation under particular conditions of use, such as the renovation of an existing habitat. On the basis of in situ measurements, it can be seen that these materials have a high adaptability to environments whose relative humidity is evolutionary.

L’objectif de cette thèse est de présenter les stratégies du négoce landernéen de la fin du XVIIe siècle au milieu du XIXe siècle. L’implantation de la Marine Royale à Brest à la fin du XVIIe siècle pour préparer la « Seconde guerre de Cent Ans » la perte du marché anglais pour les crées du Léon, les guerres incessantes entre 1744 et 1815, les crises de toute nature, la perte du marché espagnol et de ses colonies dans les années 1820, voilà autant de défis à relever pour la communauté marchande landernéenne. Elle développe un commerce actif et saisissant toutes les opportunités, s’efforce d’y faire face. Renforcée par des apports allogènes, elle se transforme en groupe dominant, s’installant au sommet de la hiérarchie financière et, en 1721, s’empare du pouvoir local dans une ville qui devient pleinement négociante. Elle peut ainsi orienter l’action publique au service de ses ambitions et, réaliser ainsi un équipement portuaire adapté aux besoins de trafics en expansion. Près de ce poumon économique s’édifient les hôtels particuliers témoignant de la réussite des négociants. Lorsqu’au début des années 1820, la Révolution libérale espagnole et l’émancipation des colonies ferment définitivement ces marchés aux toiles bretonnes, le principal groupe marchand de la ville engage, cas unique en Bretagne, une étonnante reconversion industrielle, afin de se positionner en leader sur les marchés de fournitures militaires. Cette révolution, indispensable pour répondre aux exigences de prix et de qualité du donneur d’ordres, aboutit à la création en 1845 de la Société Linière du Finistère, qui devient la plus importante entreprise privée du Finistère, salariant jusqu’à 4 500 employés. / In this thesis, we aim at presenting the merchants strategies in Landerneau from the end of the XVIIth century to the middle of the XIXth century. The French Navy based in Brest at the end of the XVIIth century – in order to prepare for the « Second Hundred Years’ War » - as well as the loss of the English market by the crées (linen canvas) of Leon, the constant wars betwenn 1744 and 1815, the crisis of all kinds, the loss of the Spanish market and its colonies during the 1820’s, constituted several challenges to address for Landerneau’s merchants’ commmunity. Developping an active trade, this community tried to face every new opportunity. Reinforced by external additions, it became a dominant group, getting the upper place of the financial hierarchy. In 1721, it managed to take over the local government, making the town to fully becoming a trade place. The public policy could then be turned to serve the goals set up by this group, like building new harbour facilities, matching with the needs of an expanding traffic. The beautiful mansions built nearby this economical backbone, are as many testimonies of the merchants’ achievement.When, at the beginning of the 1820’s, the Spanish liberal revolution and the emancipation of the colonies definitly closed those markets to canvas from Brittany, an amazing industrial restructuring was engaged by the main merchant’s group of the town, in order to become leader on the market of military supply. This is a unique case in Brittany. This revolution, essential to respond to the price and quality requiered by the payer, leaded to the creation in 1845 of the Société Linière du Finistère (Linen Society of Finistère), which became the main private compagny of Finistère, employing up to 4500 people.

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In pieces I wanted to create a design solution inspired by traditional wooden furnitures. Furnitures, like the kitchen sofa with built in storage and a place to sleep or the lockable free-standing linen cabinet that held hand crafted treasures safe and clean inside. Furnitures that are large in size and can be hard to fit into smaller homes today but that holds a huge sentimental value to the owner and are often handed down through generations as heirlooms.   So what if I could weave in a piece of my own family history into a design solution that can fit in smaller living spaces while still be an attractive choice for larger ones?  Pieces resulted in two wooden cabinets that tell part of my family history through the repetitative, organic shapes that I have implemented into them. They are a tribute to my grandmother Aino and her three year younger sister Hanna and my way of symbolically reclaiming their right to the land, forests and lakes around their childhood home that the two sisters didn´t get to share with their siblings in the inheritance after my great grandparents.  The methods I have used in my research are surveys, workshops, in-depth interviews and my own observations. Major design decisions have been based on the input from my research process with the goal to display two full scale cabinets at Konstfack's spring exhibition in May 2023.

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