Jeans is a clothing segment that has had a lasting popularity over many years. The intenseproduction of jeans has led to a discussion on the environmental effects that the jeanscontribute to. Cotton, which is the main material used to make jeans, is a water and chemicalintensive crop which today is involved in discussions on whether there are other moresustainable alternatives to conventional cotton. Organically grown cotton does not usesynthetic fertilizers, pesticides or growth regulators, which has made many people andcompanies believe it is a more sustainable alternative to conventionally grown cotton. J.Lindeberg is a Swedish fashion company which produce jeans made from bothconventional and organic cotton today, however, they have a goal to increase the use oforganic cotton to decrease the negative environmental effects from the jeans. Therefore, thismaster thesis aims to determine if jeans made from conventional or organic cotton has ahigher environmental performance. This is done by taking environmental effects through theentire life cycle into account by making a life cycle assessment of two pairs of jeans made byJ.Lindeberg, Jay Devout made from conventional cotton and Jay Solid Stretch made fromorganic cotton. To reach the aim, three research questions are formulated: Which style of jeans, Jay Devout or Jay Solid Stretch, has the highest potential lifecycle environmental performance? Will the change from conventional cotton to organic cotton in the jeans align with thesustainability goals set by J.Lindeberg? Are there any possible risks or trade-offs associated with the shift from conventionalto organic cotton? The LCA was performed with data from four supplying companies of J.Lindeberg and theresults show that Jay Devout, made from conventional cotton, have a higher environmentalperformance when including the entire life cycle. However, the impacts from the productionis not dependent on the cotton being conventional or organic and therefore, to conclude ifJ.Lindeberg is making the right choice by changing from conventional to organic cotton, thecomparison should only include the cotton cultivation phase. When comparing the cottoncultivation phase of the conventional and organic systems, the results show that the organiccotton has a higher environmental performance. This suggests that the change fromconventional cotton to organic cotton will in fact contribute to lower negative environmentalimpacts. Furthermore, the change from conventional to organic cotton aligns with most of thesustainability goals set by J.Lindeberg. Jay Devout, made from conventional cotton, had a higher negative impact on most of theimpact categories connected to toxicity, which supports the choice of changing to organiccotton, since J.Lindeberg has a goal to reduce the chemicals in their products. Overall, thetwo jeans performed differently on different impact categories, however a similarity is thatthe production phase is a hotspot for both jeans. There is a risk of trade-offs regarding theimpact categories water consumption, global warming and fossil resource scarcity whenincluding all phases of the life cycle, and to avoid this, increased transparency andtraceability is required in the supply chain to enable thorough sustainability work. Arecommendation is to demand the use of renewable sources for electricity production in allsteps of the life cycle, since this decrease the environmental impacts, especially from theproduction phase. / Jeans är det mest sålda klädesplagget i världen, och har haft en ihållande popularitet undermånga år. Den intensiva produktionen har väckt diskussioner om vilken miljöpåverkan somjeans bidrar till. Bomull är det material som främst används i jeans och odlingen av bomullkräver generellt stora mängder vatten och kemikalier. Detta har lett till sökandet av ett merhållbart alternativ till den konventionella bomullsodlingen. Ekologiskt odlad bomull odlasutan tillsatser av konstgjorda gödningsmedel och insektsmedel vilket gör att det blivit kändsom ett mer hållbart alternativ till konventionell bomull. J.Lindeberg är ett svenskt modeföretag som säljer jeans gjorda av både konventionell ochekologisk bomull idag. De har ett mål att öka användningen av ekologisk bomull i sina jeansför att minska de negativa effekterna på miljön. Målet med denna masteruppsats är därför attta reda på om jeans gjorda på konventionell eller ekologisk bomull har bättre miljöprestanda.En jämförelse av två par jeans från J.Lindeberg, Jay Devout gjorda av konventionell bomulloch Jay Solid Stretch gjorda av ekologisk bomull är gjord med hjälp av verktygetlivscykelanalys, LCA. En LCA är gjord för att inkludera alla miljöeffekter som jeansen bidrartill genom hela dess livscykel. Tre forskningsfrågor är formulerade för att uppfylla målet meddenna masteruppsats: Vilken av jeansen Jay Devout och Jay Solid Stretch har den högsta potentiellamiljöprestandan? Kommer bytet från konventionell bomull till ekologisk bomull stämma överens medde hållbarhetsmål som J.Lindeberg har satt upp? Finns det risk för högre miljöpåverkan på någon miljökategori vid bytet avkonventionell till ekologisk bomull? Data från fyra leverantörer till J.Lindeberg har använts för att genomföra denna LCA ochresultatet visar att Jay Devout, som är tillverkad av konventionell bomull, har högremiljöprestanda då hela livs cykeln är inkluderad. Eftersom att bomullsodlingen är den endafasen som beror på om bomullen är ekologisk eller konventionell, kan endast påverkan fråndenna fas avgöra vilken typ av bomull som har högst miljöprestanda. När de två jeansenjämförs med avseende på endast bomullsodlingen, visar resultatet att den ekologiskabomullen har högst miljöprestanda. Detta gör att slutsatsen kan dras att bytet frånkonventionell bomull till ekologisk bomull kommer bidra till en lägre negativ miljöpåverkanfrån jeansen. Jay Devout, tillverkad av konventionell bomull, har större negativ påverkan på de flesta avkategorierna som är kopplade till toxicitet, vilket talar för beslutet att byta till ekologiskbomull då J.Lindeberg har ett mål att minska användningen av kemikalier i sina produkter.Sett till hela livscykeln så påverkar jeansen de 17 miljöpåverkanskategorierna olika men enlikhet är att produktionen generellt har den största påverkan. Implementeringen av ekologiskbomull stämmer till viss del överens med de hållbarhetsmål som J.Lindeberg har satt upp,men inte alla. Det finns en risk för att global uppvärmning, fossil resursanvändning ochvattenanvändning påverkas mer av bytet från konventionell till ekologisk bomull, sett till helalivscykeln, och för att undvika detta krävs transparens och spårbarhet i distributionskedjan föratt heltäckande hållbarhetsarbete kan utföras. En rekommendation är att användaförnyelsebara energikällor genom hela livscykeln för att minska miljöpåverkan, vilket harsärskilt stor påverkan i produktionen.

Within the jeans production industry, large quantities of cotton, water and chemicals are consumed on a daily basis resulting in environmental issues decentralized around the world. An increased awareness about these environmental issues amongst companies, organizations and the consumers have initiated for environmental aspects to be considered within the jeans production processes. One such initiative is the introducing of CSR management into the business operations and strategy. In order to see how well the environmental targets and performance succeed with capturing the existing environmental issues more information about the specific products is required. This thesis was conducted to evaluate and compare the environmental impacts of three jeans manufactured by Nudie Jeans from a life cycle perspective and to evaluate the environmental focus at Nudie Jeans. Accordingly the main purpose has been to evaluate the environmental performance of jeans at Nudie Jeans. The main purpose have been divided into the two sub- targets: To find out which of the three styles of jeans: Lean Dean Lost Legend, Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo and Grim Tim Conjunctions, manufactured at Nudie Jeans, that has the best environmental performance and why. To find out how well the prioritized environmental sustainability targets and measures represent their potential environmental impact. The evaluation is based on nine main environmental aspects, assessed to be relevant and of interest for the given case. The LCA has been performed according to the methodology and guidance presented in the ISO 14040-standard to ensure a methodological structure with high credibility. The studied products are the three styles of jeans: Lean Dean Lost Legend, Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo and Grim Tim Conjunctions. The main difference between the products can be found in what companies and in which countries the life cycle phases: cotton cultivation, fabric manufacturing and jeans production are conducted. The results of the study show that Grim Tim Conjunctions and Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo have the best environmental performance and the worst environmental performance can be found in Lean Dean Lost Legend. The results are mainly caused by two main process contributors, the energy sources used for electricity and heating and the substances used in the dyeing, laundry and finishing processes. A sensitivity analysis on the results gathered from the LCA shows that Nudie Jeans is to the largest extent focusing on the right environmental aspects. The focus on organic cotton cultivation and the promoting of repairs are highly reflecting the environmental importance within the subject, however, the measures and targets regarding energy usage could be improved to better represent its environmental importance.

[pt] O alinhamento entre produto ofertado e expectativa do cliente é fundamental para a satisfação dos consumidores e afeta diretamente o desempenho empresarial. Logo, orientação para o mercado pressupõe o conhecimento do consumidor como fator fundamental para concepção de produtos e obtenção de resultado. Esta pesquisa utilizou o método de análise conjunta para sugerir produtos ideais para consumidores de calças jeans. Para tanto, foram realizados uma entrevista em profundidade e um grupo foco com executivos da indústria, que identificaram os atributos de produtos mais importantes e seus níveis, sob a ótica da indústria. Uma vez compreendida a percepção dos idealizadores de produto, foi gerado um projeto fatorial fracionado com dezoito produtos para avaliação do mercado. A percepção dos consumidores com relação à cesta de produtos foi coletada por meio de questionários físicos e eletrônicos. A análise dos resultados demonstrou que o atributo mais importante da calça é a cintura e que diferentes segmentos possuem expectativas diferentes com relação à mesma. Enquanto as mulheres preferem cintura alta, os homens preferem cintura média. Observa-se também, o impacto dos avanços tecnológicos em aspectos como elasticidade do tecido, que de uma forma geral é bem aceito pela amostra. Além disso, insights com relação a comprimento de perna e tipo de boca também foram gerados. / [en] The alignment between company offer and client expectations is of paramount importance to customer satisfaction and directly affects company performance. Thus, company orientation towards the marketplace assumes knowledge about customers as a fundamental factor in product development and company achievement. This research applied conjoint analysis to suggest ideal products to jeans consumers. Therefore, an in-depth interview and a focus group were conducted with industry executives, which identified the most relevant product attributes and their levels using under the perspective of the industry. Once the perspective of executives responsible for product development was understood, a fractional factorial design was generated with eighteen products for market evaluation. So, customer s perception about the products was gathered through survey. Output analysis shown waist height as the most important attribute and the different preferences each market segment has about it. While women prefer high waisted jeans, men prefer medium rise jeans. The impact of technologial advances in aspects such as elastic materials was observed and insights regarding leg legth were generated.

This study explored the inferences male children held about the brand personality. The sample included 46 male fifth graders. Personal interviews were conducted and the results were compiled and interpreted using descriptive statistics. Four subject areas were addressed: identification and inferences about brand personality, sources of inferences, children's ability to make inferences about other children based on brand personality, and application of brand personality to self. Results indicated children make inferences about brand personality, make inferences about other children based on brand personality, and apply brand personality to themselves. An attempt to identify sources of inferences was inconclusive.

fashion industry in Hong Kong : a case study : Sparkle / by Choi Hung Wai, Ricky. / Bibliography : leaves [43] - 44 / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1984

We study the structure and substructure of Lambda-CDM halos using a suite of high-resolution cosmological N-body simulations. Our analysis of the substructure population of dark matter halos focuses on their mass and peak circular velocity functions, as well as their spatial distribution and dynamics. In our analysis, we consider the whole population of subhalos physically associated with the main halo, defined as those that have, at some time, crossed within the virial radius of the main progenitor. We find that this population extends beyond 3 times the virial radius and includes objects on unorthodox orbits, several of which travel at velocities approaching the nominal escape speed from the system. We trace the origin of these unorthodox orbits to the tidal dissociation of bound groups, which results in the ejection of some systems along tidal streams. This process primarily influences low-mass systems leading to clear mass-dependent biases in their spatial distribution and kinematics: the lower the subhalo mass at accretion time the more concentrated and kinematically hotter their descendant population. When quantified in terms of present day subhalo mass these trends disappear, presumably due to the increased effect of dynamical friction and tidal stripping on massive systems. We confirm several of these results using the ultra-high resolution Aquarius simulations, which extend the dynamic range of the subhalo mass function by nearly 3 orders of magnitude. Using these simulations we confirm that the substructure mass function follows a power-law, $dN/dM\propto M^{-1.9}$, and exhibits very little halo-to-halo scatter. This implies that the total mass in substructure within a given halo is bounded to a small fraction of the total halo mass, with the smooth component dominating the halo inner regions. Using the Aquarius simulations we study the structure of galaxy-sized Lambda-CDM halos. We find that the spherically averaged density profiles become increasingly shallow toward the halo center, with no sign of converging to an asymptotic power-law; a radial dependence accurately described by the Einasto profile. In our highest resolution run we resolve scales approaching 100 pc, at which point the maximum asymptotic slope is $\approx -0.89$, confidently ruling out recent claims for cusps as steep as $r^{-1.2}$. We find that the spherically averaged density and velocity dispersion profiles are not universal, but rather show subtle but significant deviations from self-similarity. Intriguingly, departures from self-similarity are minimized when cast in terms of the phase-space density profile, $\rho/\sigma^3$, suggesting an intimate scaling between densities and velocity dispersions across the system. The phase-space density profiles follow a power-law with radius, $r^{-1.875}$, identical to that of Bertschinger's similarity solution for self-similar infall onto a point mass in an otherwise unperturbed Einstein-de Sitter universe.

We study the structure and substructure of Lambda-CDM halos using a suite of high-resolution cosmological N-body simulations. Our analysis of the substructure population of dark matter halos focuses on their mass and peak circular velocity functions, as well as their spatial distribution and dynamics. In our analysis, we consider the whole population of subhalos physically associated with the main halo, defined as those that have, at some time, crossed within the virial radius of the main progenitor. We find that this population extends beyond 3 times the virial radius and includes objects on unorthodox orbits, several of which travel at velocities approaching the nominal escape speed from the system. We trace the origin of these unorthodox orbits to the tidal dissociation of bound groups, which results in the ejection of some systems along tidal streams. This process primarily influences low-mass systems leading to clear mass-dependent biases in their spatial distribution and kinematics: the lower the subhalo mass at accretion time the more concentrated and kinematically hotter their descendant population. When quantified in terms of present day subhalo mass these trends disappear, presumably due to the increased effect of dynamical friction and tidal stripping on massive systems. We confirm several of these results using the ultra-high resolution Aquarius simulations, which extend the dynamic range of the subhalo mass function by nearly 3 orders of magnitude. Using these simulations we confirm that the substructure mass function follows a power-law, $dN/dM\propto M^{-1.9}$, and exhibits very little halo-to-halo scatter. This implies that the total mass in substructure within a given halo is bounded to a small fraction of the total halo mass, with the smooth component dominating the halo inner regions. Using the Aquarius simulations we study the structure of galaxy-sized Lambda-CDM halos. We find that the spherically averaged density profiles become increasingly shallow toward the halo center, with no sign of converging to an asymptotic power-law; a radial dependence accurately described by the Einasto profile. In our highest resolution run we resolve scales approaching 100 pc, at which point the maximum asymptotic slope is $\approx -0.89$, confidently ruling out recent claims for cusps as steep as $r^{-1.2}$. We find that the spherically averaged density and velocity dispersion profiles are not universal, but rather show subtle but significant deviations from self-similarity. Intriguingly, departures from self-similarity are minimized when cast in terms of the phase-space density profile, $\rho/\sigma^3$, suggesting an intimate scaling between densities and velocity dispersions across the system. The phase-space density profiles follow a power-law with radius, $r^{-1.875}$, identical to that of Bertschinger's similarity solution for self-similar infall onto a point mass in an otherwise unperturbed Einstein-de Sitter universe.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-12-17T15:03:26Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 AlinneKSF_DISSERT.pdf: 2111832 bytes, checksum: 4c3a5b40f28210cad528671d89c486df (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-12-22 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior / This study aims to assess the potential for industrial reuse of textile wastewater, after passing through a physical and chemical pretreatment, into denim washing wet processing operations in an industrial textile laundry, with no need for complementary treatments and dilutions. The methodology and evaluation of the proposed tests were based on the production techniques used in the company and upgraded for the experiments tested. The characterization of the treated effluent for 16 selected parameters and the development of a monitoring able to tailor the treated effluent for final disposal in accordance with current legislation was essential for the initiation of testing for reuse. The parameters color, turbidity, SS and pH used were satisfactory as control variables and presents simple determination methods. The denim quality variables considered were: color, odor, appearance and soft handle. The tests were started on a pilot scale following complexity factors attributed to the processes, in denim fabric and jeans, which demonstrated the possibility of reuse, because there was no interference in the processes and at quality of the tested product. Industrial scale tests were initiated by a step control that confirmed the methodology efficiency applied to identify the possibility of reuse by tests that precede each recipe to be processed. 556 replicates were performed in production scale for 47 different recipes of denim washing. The percentage of water reuse was 100% for all processes and repetitions performed after the initial adjustment testing phase. All the jeans were framed with the highest quality for internal control and marketed, being accepted by contractors. The full-scale use of treated wastewater, supported by monitoring and evaluation and control methodology suggested in this study, proved to be valid in textile production, not given any negative impact to the quality the produced jeans under the presented conditions. It is believed that this methodology can be extrapolated to other laundries to determine the possibility of reuse in denim washing wet processing with the necessary modifications to each company. / O presente trabalho tem por objetivo avaliar as possibilidades de re?so industrial de efluentes t?xteis, ap?s passar por um pr?-tratamento f?sico-qu?mico, no processamento do jeans em uma lavanderia industrial t?xtil, sem a necessidade de tratamentos complementares e dilui??es. A metodologia desenvolvida e avalia??o dos testes propostos foram baseadas nas t?cnicas de produ??o utilizadas na empresa e adaptadas para os experimentos testados. A caracteriza??o do efluente tratado atrav?s dos 16 par?metros selecionados e o desenvolvimento de um monitoramento capaz de adequar o efluente tratado para disposi??o final de acordo com a legisla??o vigente foi essencial para o in?cio dos testes de re?so. Os par?metros utilizados - cor, turbidez, SS e pH mostraram-se satisfat?rios como vari?veis de controle e apresentam m?todos de determina??o simples. As vari?veis de qualidade no tecido (denim) consideradas foram: cor, odor, apar?ncia e suavidade ao toque. Os testes foram iniciados em escala piloto seguindo fatores de complexidade atribu?dos aos processos, em pe?as piloto e em pe?as confeccionadas, que demonstraram a possibilidade de re?so, por n?o apresentarem interfer?ncias a qualidade dos processos e das pe?as produzidas. Em escala real os testes foram iniciados por uma etapa controle e confirmaram a efici?ncia da metodologia aplicada para identificar a possibilidade de re?so atrav?s de testes que precedem cada receita a ser processada. Foram realizadas 556 repeti??es em escala produtiva para as lavagens referentes a 47 diferentes receitas. O percentual de re?so com ?gua da ETEI foi de 100% para todos os processos e repeti??es realizadas ap?s a etapa inicial de ajuste dos testes. Todas as pe?as foram enquadradas com qualidade m?xima pelo controle interno e comercializadas, sendo aprovadas pelos contratantes. A utiliza??o em escala real do efluente tratado, sustentado pelo monitoramento e metodologia de controle e avalia??o sugerida neste estudo mostrou-se v?lida na produ??o t?xtil, por n?o conferir qualquer tipo de impacto negativo ? qualidade das pe?as produzidas nas condi??es apresentadas. Estes resultados apontam que esta metodologia pode ser extrapolada a outras lavanderias para determina??o da possibilidade de re?so no beneficiamento de jeans com as adapta??es necess?rias a cada empresa.

Having been introduced in Sweden in the 1980’s, one would perhaps have thought postmodern philosophy to be a thing of the past. As it turns out, the debate on postmodernism is still very much alive. But the term ‘postmodernism’ in 2021 is complex and sometimes misunderstood. In public discourse, the term has moved beyond its status as a continental philosophy or as a denomination for certain historical conditions of the late twentieth century. Today, it appears, people use ‘postmodernism’ as an invective for relativism, post-truth and ‘empty words’. Two books, published in 2020, even warn the Swedish people for a postmodern invasion of both the academics and Swedish government. The humanities, apparently, are especially corrupted by postmodern thinking. Is this true? As a rhetorician, I ask myself to what extent postmodern theory has had an influence on Swedish rhetoric in the 40 years since the discipline was re-established within higher education.  This essay examines course syllabuses, teaching material, Swedish articles in the periodical Rhetorica Scandinavica, doctoral theses, and the complete works published by Sweden’s eight professors of rhetoric. Early on, I found that there was very little information available about the development of  Swedish rhetoric –even less about a postmodern rhetoric in a Swedish context. Thus, this essay is to be looked at as both a history of Swedish postmodern rhetoric – the first of its kind – and as an examination of the occurrence of postmodern theory within Swedish rhetoric. I find that postmodernism has not, as opposed to the critics’ claims, played a key role in the development of Swedish rhetoric. Its presence has, however, significantly increased within the field of rhetoric since 2010, and I discuss why that might be. Further, I discuss what can be said to define the Swedish postmodern rhetoric, and what the future might hold for this specific branch of rhetorical studies and research.

Es seguro que hoy en día las personas tienen en su clóset una prenda jean, pues es un elemento básico para armar un outfit y, se considera una prenda versátil que combina con cualquier otro tipo de prenda y se puede utilizar para diferentes estilos y ocasiones. No obstante, es posible que no se es muy consciente de la huella ambiental que estas prendas dejan al momento de ser fabricadas. Según diversas fuentes, como Infobae (2019) y la Organización de las Naciones Unidas (ONU) (2019), se necesitan 2,900 litros de agua para elaborar una camiseta jean y 7,500 para un pantalón jean. A partir de esta problemática, sumado al ritmo de compra en la industria del fast fashion, la cual genera un impacto negativo en el medio ambiente, ya que, según el Diario La Sexta (2019), en los últimos 15 años, la industria textil genera el 8% de las emisiones de gases de efecto invernadero, nació el presente proyecto de investigación. Jeans 360 Perú consiste en ofrecer una solución innovadora al mercado peruano, en la cual se interiorice un nuevo concepto sobre el ciclo de vida de las prendas jeans, es decir, una forma de alargar la vida útil de los mismos. Este proyecto se ha desarrollado con aplicación a la realidad peruana, específicamente a la población ubicada en la ciudad de Lima Metropolitana. Asimismo, el modelo de negocio del proyecto se sustenta en reducir el impacto ambiental de la industria de la moda, basándose en el concepto de economía circular, el cual está enfocado en el cuidado y protección del medio ambiente a través de la reducción de desechos y el aprovechamiento de los recursos. Este proyecto ofrece una plataforma digital web y redes sociales para la comercialización de prendas jeans de segunda mano de diversas marcas, con modelos originales de fábrica y prendas jeans acondicionadas a un diseño acorde a las últimas tendencias internacionales de la moda denim. Adicional a ello, teniendo en cuenta la situación actual del mercado de prendas de segunda mano en el Perú, se aplicarán diferentes estrategias de ingreso al mercado con una propuesta transparente con respecto a los protocolos de sanidad y bioseguridad. / It is certain that nowadays people have a jean garment in their closet, as it is a basic element to put together an outfit and, it is considered a versatile garment that combines with any other type of garment and can be used for different styles and occasions. However, it is possible that you are not very aware of the environmental footprint that these garments leave when they are manufactured. According to various sources, such as Infobae (2019) and the United Nations (UN) (2019), 2,900 liters of water are needed to make a jean shirt and 7,500 for a jean pants. From this problem, added to the rate of purchase in the fast fashion industry, which generates a negative impact on the environment, since, according to La Sexta newspaper (2019), in the last 15 years, the textile industry generates 8% of greenhouse gas emissions, this research project was born. Jeans 360 Peru consists of offering an innovative solution to the Peruvian market, in which a new concept is internalized about the life cycle of jeans garments, that is, a way to extend their useful life. This project has been developed with application to the Peruvian reality, specifically to the population located in the city of Metropolitan Lima. Likewise, the business model of the project is based on reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry, based on the concept of circular economy, which is focused on the care and protection of the environment through the reduction of waste and the use of resources. This project offers a digital web platform and social networks for the commercialization of second-hand jeans garments from various brands, with original factory models and jeans garments conditioned to a design according to the latest international trends in denim fashion. In addition to this, considering the current situation of the second-hand garment market in Peru, different strategies for entering the market will be applied with a transparent proposal with respect to health and biosafety protocols. / Trabajo de investigación