Orientador: Monica Moura / Banca: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Banca: Cyntia Santos Malaguti de Sousa / Resumo: A moda contemporânea no Brasil passou por grandes mudanças de paradigmas. Entre as questões principais que contribuiu para essa alteração é a sustentabilidade, que tem sido um dos desafios da moda, pois, ainda se encontra as entraves que já fazem parte do conceito de design de moda, o tema que tem sido discutido amplamente no campo do design e encontra fortes ecos na área de design de moda. Assim sendo, com foco no ponto de vista da estratégia da ferramenta do Life Cycle Design no projeto de um produto de moda, seguindo orientação do design sustentável, pretende-se abordar como procede a produção do jeanswear sustentável, ou seja, constatar a veracidade do conceito de design sustentável nas campanhas publicitárias veiculadas na mídia e o processo de desenvolvimento à produção / Abstract: The contemporary fashion in Brazil has undergone major paradigm shifts. Among the major issues that contributed to this change is sustainability, which has been one of the challenges of fashion, because it is still obstacles that are already part of the concept of fashion design, a topic that has been discussed widely in the field of design and finds strong echoes in the area of fashion design. Therefore, focusing on the point of view of strategy tool of Cycle Design in designing a fashion product, following the guidance of sustainable design aims to address how the production comes from sustainable jeanswear, verify the veracity of the concept of sustainable design in advertising campaigns disseminated in the media and process development to production / Mestre

This work investigates the typical denim jean in a sitting position with a focus on serving several possible answers to the question ”are you your legs?”. By exploring both the constructional, preconceptional and expressional possibilities within a pair of jeans, a method of using the waist-line and hem-line as measurement-points is found. The purpose of this study is to investigate the way of wearing jeans in a static seated position. Trough the years mainly the standing body has been used as base to create clothes. Only a few construction- and design-methods has been seen based on a sitting body. By challenging the narrow frame of jeans in both construction and expression, a range of innovative examples are found. Trough keeping and exaggerating the typical jean-details such as stitchings, pockets and flys, the jeans are still recognizable as the typical pair of jeans and the focus on distortion and challenging of a pair of jeans in relation to the sitting body is clear. By using the sitting body as base in both construction and design develpoing the limit is pushed further in questioning what a body is, what it needs and how it could be dressed.

The purpose of this study was to establish a predictive model of the factors that contribute to the decision-making process when purchasing denim by 13- to 19-year-old adolescents living in the U.S. The researcher created an online survey through Qualtrics and administered it to an opt-in panel of adolescents, through Centiment. There were 460 survey responses collected. Important denim attributes to respondents included comfort and fit, price, durability, and body perception. Significant predictors that increased respondents’ intention to purchase denim jeans included intrinsic attributes-appearance of fabric on the body, cognitive attributes, tighter fit, and purchased denim in the last three months. Significant predictors that decreased respondents’ intention to purchase denim jeans included if the price was increasingly more than $40 and gender. The information gathered in this study could help manufacturers focus on what adolescents consider important in denim jeans and adjust production and marketing strategy as needed. Future research should determine which attributes were contributing to the significance of intrinsic attributes-appearance of fabric on the body and cognitive attributes. Another future research study could conduct the research with physical examples of denim jeans present.

The kinematics and white dwarf distribution have been studied for the Globular Cluster NGC 6397. The data was obtained from NASA’s Hubble Space Telescope in 2005. In particular, we used the images of a field 5’ Southeast of the core of NGC 6397 from Advanced Camera for Surveys to conduct our analyses. The first part of the study is about the kinematics of the globular cluster. Isotropy of velocity distribution and cluster rotation have been considered. As anticipated, this relaxed cluster exhibited no strong signs of anisotropy. However, there appears to be some level of rotation. The rotational motion turns out to be mu sub alpha cos(delta) = 3.88 ± 1.41 mas yr −1 and mu sub delta = −14.83 ± 0.58 mas yr −1. This result is not entirely expected and deserves further investigation in future studies. The second of the thesis is based on white dwarf populations in the globular cluster and the Galactic Bulge. As a first glance, there appears to be a lacking of white dwarfs at the age of approximately 0.6 Gyr. Further investigation reveals this to be statistically insignificant. Through this analysis, another pattern of white dwarf abundance is discovered. There appeared to be much more stars at the age between 0.9 − 2.0 Gyr. This could be a manifestation of modeling error. As the final consideration of this thesis, white dwarf candidates in the Galactic Bulge are illustrated. Approximately 10 candidates are found at the most probable location of stars in the Bulge. The analyses conducted in this thesis set stage for further development in understanding of globular clusters. In particular, the rotation analysis raises curiosity about the dynamics of NGC 6397 in the plane of the sky. Moreover, the velocity distribution analysis confirms properties and theories pertaining to globular clusters.

Submitted by Fabio Sobreira Campos da Costa (fabio.sobreira@ufpe.br) on 2017-02-20T13:08:53Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) Dissertacao-Hannah-Miranda-Pos-Banca_Final.pdf: 2597153 bytes, checksum: c470b93501a783aa39ce20f2f828a95c (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-02-20T13:08:53Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) Dissertacao-Hannah-Miranda-Pos-Banca_Final.pdf: 2597153 bytes, checksum: c470b93501a783aa39ce20f2f828a95c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-05-31 / CAPES / CNPq / O significado da calça jeans produzida por Toritama é uma construção coletiva, fruto de ações conjuntas de uma cadeia de atores os quais empreendem culturalmente ao articularem significados a esse artefato. Assim, para contextualizar essa dinâmica de significação, buscamos compreender as dimensões discursivas que demarcam a produção cultural da calça jeans no campo da moda em Toritama, a partir da perspectiva de cadeia de atores que atuam como produtores culturais. Diante desse cenário, o estudo segue na perspectiva teóricometodológico sugerida pelo Circuito da Cultura de Du Gay et al. (1997a), oriundos da tradição dos Estudos Culturais. Como forma de acessar o campo das subjetividades da produção da calça jeans na cidade de Toritama, foram realizadas entrevistas semi-estruturadas com 06 atores representativos da cadeia produtiva, os quais impulsionam e demarcam a produção subjetiva da calça jeans como produto de moda. A análise dos dados foi norteada com o suporte da - Análise do Discurso (AD) -, na perspectiva proposta por Gil (2002). As considerações sobre os achados de pesquisa apontam para uma produção cultural que significa não só a calça jeans de Toritama no campo da moda, mas todo o modo de vida e os valores culturais dessa cidade. Logo, diante dos argumentos, dos achados de pesquisa, as considerações finais sugerem que a moda, em Toritama, por meio da calça jeans, surge como um emaranhado de discursos culturais e disputas por poder. Os quais minimamente relevam estratégias de mercado para o negócio de moda pautado no discurso da economia criativa. Mas desvelam e conferem a grandiosa dimensão da vida nesta cidade, que articula a calça jeans como símbolo de história e conquistas, expondo a calça jeans como base epistemológica da cultura de Toritama. / The meaning of jeans produced by Toritama is a collective construction, the result of joint actions of a chain of actors that culturally undertake to articulate meanings to this artifact. So, to contextualize this dynamic of meaning, we seek to understand the discursive dimensions that mark the cultural production of jeans in the fashion field in Toritama, from the actors chain perspective that act as cultural producers. In this scenario, the study follows the theoretical and methodological approach suggested by Du Culture Circuit Gay et al. (1997a), derived from the tradition of Cultural Studies. As a way to access the field of jeans production of subjectivities in the town of Toritama they were conducted semi-structured interviews with 06 representative players in the production chain, which drive and demarcate the subjective production of jeans as a fashion product. Data analysis was guided with the support of - Discourse Analysis (AD) - in the perspective proposed by Gil (2002). The considerations on the research findings point to a cultural production that means not only Toritama jeans in fashion, but the whole way of life and cultural values of this city. Therefore, before the arguments in the research findings, the final considerations suggest that fashion in Toritama through the jeans, appears as a tangle of cultural discourses and power for disputes. Which fall under minimally market strategies for the fashion business guided the discourse of the creative economy. But they unfold and give the great dimension of life in this city, which articulates the jeans as a symbol of history and achievements, exposing the jeans as epistemological basis of Toritama culture.

Submitted by Geandra Rodrigues (geandrar@gmail.com) on 2018-04-10T12:29:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2018-04-10T13:18:32Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-04-10T13:18:32Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 giseledelimamelonepomuceno.pdf: 2735855 bytes, checksum: 0f4b774b69624c7a60d605c512a750af (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-05 / Essa dissertação investiga o desenvolvimento da indústria têxtil e de confecção a partir da produção do jeans nas décadas de 1960 a 1980 no Brasil. Tal análise servirá de base para compreender como o advento da cultura juvenil na década de 1960 — e o uso generalizado do jeans, que figurou importante papel como uniforme juvenil, popularizando-se para todas as outras gerações — pode contribuir para a maior profissionalização e desenvolvimento da indústria de confecção nacional. Para além da modernização da indústria têxtil brasileira — que exigia um maquinário adequado e mão de obra mais qualificada —, o advento do jeans como traje para todas as ocasiões encontrou na propaganda de moda um suporte também mais modernizado para a divulgação do material como ícone do comportamento juvenil. Essa imagem da valorização da produção nacional, que antes era destinada quase exclusivamente às classes populares e a partir de uma modelagem que ressalta a sensualidade passa a ser um produto aceito em todas as classes vai evoluir nas décadas de 1970 e 1980 para um modelo não só ligado ao público jovem. com a expansão do uso do jeans para outras faixas etárias. Mas focado no corpo e na sensualidade e, justamente associado à imagem do erotismo, que se tornará característico da produção do jeans tipicamente brasileiro. / This thesis investigates the development of the textile and clothing industry from the production of jeans in the 1960s and 1980s in Brazil. The analysis can be a basis to how the growth of youth culture in the 1960´s — and the general use of jeans, that became the youth uniform clothing, making it´s way to all the next generations — contributed to professionalization and development to the brazilian clothing industry. Beyond the modernization of brazilian textile industry, as it demanded better machines and qualified employees, the growth of jeans use to an all ocasions clothing, found in the fashion marketing a modernized support for making this garment into a youth behavior statement. This image of the valorization of national production, which was previously destined almost exclusively to the popular classes and from a modeling that emphasizes sensuality, becomes an accepted product in all classes. It will evolve in the 1970s and 1980s to a model not only Connected to young audiences. With the expansion of the use of jeans for other age groups. But focused on body and sensuality, and precisely associated with the image of eroticism, which will become characteristic of the production of typically Brazilian jeans.

The structure and composition of denim jeans is complex. In addition to cotton, which is the dominating type of textile fibre, there may be up to about 20 % synthetic fibres. The synthetic fibres are found in the sewing thread and in the elastic yarns that are used to make stretch denim jeans. In total it was found that up to six different types of textile fibres may be present in the material. To be able to recycle cotton in jeans by producing regenerated cellulose fibres a very high purity with respect to cotton is required. The purpose with this project was to investigate the possibility to fractionate the textile material found in denim jeans to obtain a pure cotton fraction that can be used in the viscose process to produce regenerated cellulose fibres, which then can be used to manufacture new clothes. In this project traditional wet mechanical separation equipment found in the pulp and paper industry, in the form of a laboratory screen (used as a model for a pressure screen) and hydrocyclone, was used to fractionate the textile material from cut and shredded denim jeans. The degree of separation of synthetic fibres from cotton fibres was quantitatively evaluated by measuring the glucose content after acid hydrolysis. The results from the experimental work showed that there were runnability problems both regarding disintegration and fractionation. Regarding the fractionation, plugging was found to be a problem and no significant separation of synthetic fibres from cotton fibres was obtained with the conditions of the experiment. / Strukturen och sammansättningen i denimjeans är komplex. Utöver bomull, vilken är den dominerande typen av textilfiber, kan de innehålla upp till 20 % syntetiska fibrer i tyget. De syntetiska fibrerna finns i sytråden och i elastiska garner som används för att tillverka stretchdenimjeans. Den här studien visade att upp till sex olika typer av textilfibrer kan förekomma i materialet. För att kunna återvinna bomull i denimjeans genom att producera regenererade cellulosafibrer krävs en mycket hög renhet med avseende på bomull. Syftet med projektet var att undersöka möjligheten att fraktionera textilmaterialet i denimjeans för att erhålla en ren bomullsfraktion som kan användas i viskosprocessen för att tillverka regenererade textilfibrer, vilka sedan kan användas för att tillverka nya kläder. I projektet användes, inom massa och pappersindustrin traditionell våtmekanisk separationsutrustning i form av en laboratoriesil (här använd som en modell av en trycksil) och en hydrocyklon, för att fraktionera textilmaterialet från klippta och sönderslitna denimjeans. Separationsgraden av syntetiska fibrer från bomullsfibrer bestämdes kvantitativt genom att mäta glukoshalten efter sur hydrolys. Resultatet från det experimentella arbetet visade att det finns körbarhetsproblem både gällande uppslagning och fraktionering. För fraktioneringen visade sig pluggning vara ett problem och ingen signifikant separation av syntetiska fibrer från bomullsfibrer erhölls med förhållandena i experimentet.

Syftet är att granska cirkulära textila hållbara metoder inom fyra olika jeansvarumärken. Genom en tematisk analys ska deras skilda tillvägagångssätt till sina cirkulära koncept att presenteras. Dessa samlade cirkulära koncept är avsedda till nystartade jeansföretag, och ska utvärdera samt diskuteras huruvida dessa är lämpliga att implementera för deras verksamhet eller ej. Det nystartade jeansföretagets ambition är att implementera cirkulär ekonomi som för dem i dagsläget är svårt att utveckla på egen hand. De vill vara en del av den cirkulära ekonomin och hela dess verksamhet har sin utgångspunkt i att deras produkter ska bäras år in och år ut med så lång livslängd som det är möjligt. Deras vision är att vara ett cirkulärt företag, dock finns en avsaknad av viktiga tillhörande förutsättningar för att kunna implementera den cirkulära ekonomin. Dessa förutsättningar är olika typer av resurser som är avgörande för att kunna utveckla en cirkulär ekonomi. Dessa resurser är bland annat kunskap, medarbetarstyrka och kapital. Datainsamlingen består av granskning av fyra hållbarhetsrapporter samt en intervju med ett jeansföretag. Data har analyserats med avseende på vad som kan vara tillämpligt för att bli ett mer cirkulärt företag. Vikten av publicitet och marknadsföringskampanjer tas upp som en viktig aspekt i att bibehålla företaget hållbart ur en ekonomisk och cirkulär synvinkel. Som rekommenderade åtgärder diskuteras återvinningsprojekt, gränsöverskridande samarbeten samt kit utveckling. / The purpose is to examine circular textile sustainable methods within four different jeans brands. Through a thematic analysis, their different approaches to their circular concepts are presented. These collective circular concepts are intended for a start-up jeans company, and evaluate and discuss whether these are suitable to implement for their business or not. The start-up jeans company's ambition is to implement a circular economy which for them is currently difficult to develop on their own. They want to be part of the circular economy and its entire business is based on their products being worn year in and year out with as long a lifespan as possible. Their vision is to be a circular company, however there is a lack of important associated conditions to be able to implement the circular economy. These conditions are different types of resources that are crucial to be able to develop a circular economy. These resources include knowledge, staff capacity and capital. The data collection consists of reviewing four sustainability reports and an interview with a jeans company. Data have been analyzed with regard to what may be applicable to become a more circular company. The report has ended up in this conclusion; the importance of publicity and marketing campaigns is addressed as an main aspect in maintaining the company sustainably from an economic and circular point of view. Recommended measures are recycling projects, cross-border collaborations and kit development.

I det samhälle som vi lever i idag konsumerar människor inte enbart för att tillfredställa de mest grundläggande behov som värme, mat, vatten etc. Konsumtion har övergått ifrån att vara något nödvändigt till att bli en form av fritidssysselsättning, ett intresse, en form av njutning. Efterfrågan har ökat inom flertalet branscher vilket har lett till att allt fler aktörer etablerat sig på marknaden. En bransch som har kommit att få ett allt större uppåtsving är den svenska jeans marknaden. Marknaden för svenska jeans har ökat och export tillväxten är mycket stark. Några bland framgångsfaktorerna är kvalitetstänkande och noggrannhet i val av distributörer. Jeans är det plagg som idag återfinns i nästintill var mans garderob och används till såväl vardags som fest. Jeans branschen är en tuff marknad där konkurrensen är hård och aktörerna många. I takt med att konsumtionstrenden ändrat sig har också den tekniska utvecklingen gått framåt i en rasande fart. Detta har medfört att produktutvecklingen har förbättrats och de funktionella fördelarna mellan produkterna minskat. Kvalitetsförbättringarna kräver att produkterna erbjuder andra fördelar än bara de funktionella egenskaperna. Då marknadssituationen ser ut som den gör blir det allt svårare att ta fram en unik produkt som skiljer sig åt ifrån konkurrenternas. Marknadsförutsättningarna ger upphov till frågan hur företag lyckas etablera sig och sina varumärken på marknaden. Dagens stora marknadsutbud gör också att konsumenterna idag ställer allt högre krav och allt oftare överväger alternativ. Uppsatsen handlar om hur ett jeansföretag på dagens konkurrenskraftiga marknad arbetar för att bibehålla sitt varumärkes framgångsfaktorer. Uppsatsen stödjer sig gentemot en känd teori som har använts vid undersökningen vilken är den så kallade Varumärkesplattformen. Varumärkesplattformen illustrerar hur ett företag med hjälp av en produkt och dess egenskaper bygger ett varumärke. Det företag vi valt att studera är Nudie Jeans i Göteborg, Sverige. När vi genomförde våra kvalitativa intervjuer utgick vi från tre nyckelpersoner på företaget för att få en förståelse för hur Nudie Jeans arbetar. Intervjuerna utgör den empiriska delen i vår uppsats. Slutsatser vi kommit fram till är Nudie Jeans är väldigt tydliga med att jeans är deras kärnprodukt och att de är ett jeansföretag. Nudie Jeans står för kvalité, design, kunskap och trovärdighet en känsla av äkthet genuint, ett renodlat jeans märke. Nudie Jeans är ett starkt varumärke både internationellt och i Sverige. Företaget fokuserar på rätt distributörer och har ett bra kontaktnät. Deras nätverk är en av de viktigaste faktorerna. Verksamhetens grundare Maria Levin har erfarenheter och ett kontaktnät som bidragigt till var de befinner sig idag.

hommagethis work is built upon and intended as an homage to the writingstyle of the author Jean Genet. this through post modernreference collage and pastiches of selected works from thequeer cultural heritage.Genets style could be described asa strikingly beautiful, yet morbid, corporeal world ofmasculinities. the dualism of disgustand the embrace of the decay of morality. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen