A nanotecnologia é um fenômeno que se aplica a praticamente todos os setores da ciência, sendo que na área cosmética o elevado investimento neste campo tem reforçado a idéia de que produtos nanotecnológicos proporcionam vantagens reais aos consumidores. A crescente exigência do consumidor e os avanços no conhecimento sobre obtenção e estabilidade dos sistemas dispersos viabilizam o desenvolvimento de veículos diferenciados como, por exemplo, nanoemulsões, que além da inerente estabilidade, apresentam aspecto sensorial agradável, alta capacidade de espalhabilidade e hidratação, além de poderem facilitar a penetração de ativos. Existem dois métodos de obtenção de nanoemulsões: os que empregam baixa ou alta energia de emulsificação. O uso de óleos vegetais em produtos cosméticos tem sido intensamente valorizado, baseando-se no conceito de que são seguros e biocompatíveis. O óleo de maracujá é extensamente empregado em formulações cosméticas e o óleo essencial de lavanda é citado na literatura pelo efeito cicatrizante e antiinflamatório, dentre outros. Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo desenvolver nanoemulsões à base de óleo de maracujá e óleo essencial de lavanda nas concentrações de 1,0, 2,0 e 5,0%, a partir de método a frio de baixa energia de emulsificação, bem como avaliar a influência da adição de outros componentes e dos parâmetros relacionados ao método de obtenção na estabilidade e tamanho de glóbulos das nanoemulsões e posteriormente avaliar a atividade antiinflamatória tópica da emulsão contendo 5,0% do óleo essencial em camundongos sem pêlo. Os resultados demonstraram que a adição do óleo essencial de lavanda no sistema provocou redução no tamanho de glóbulos e aumento da estabilidade física e que o método de emulsificação a frio foi eficaz na formação de nanoemulsões estáveis. O valor de EHL, o par de tensoativos, a proporção entre as fases aquosa/ oleosa e tensoativa, bem como a adição de silicones e eletrólitos e a velocidade de agitação influenciam sobremaneira as características e a estabilidade das dispersões obtidas. No estudo de estabilidade acelerada, observou-se a alteração significativa dos valores de pH e condutividade elétrica, o que possivelmente é decorrente da hidrólise de compostos presentes no óleo essencial. Os valores de potencial zeta e tamanho de glóbulos não demonstraram alteração relevante em 30 dias de estabilidade acelerada. Na avaliação in vivo, a nanoemulsão adicionada de 5,0% do óleo essencial de lavanda apresentou resultados significativos quando comparado aos demais grupos, o que sugere boa perspectiva na utilização tópica do óleo essencial de lavanda, sendo este merecedor de estudos complementares para a elucidação dos mecanismos antiinflamatórios envolvidos, dos componentes fito-químicos responsáveis por esta ação e da concentração a ser utilizada. / Nanotechnology is a phenomenon that applies to mainly all sectors of science and in the cosmetics area the high investment in this field has strengthened the idea that nanotechnology products offer real advantages to consumers. The growing demand of consumers and the advances in knowledge about production and stability of dispersed systems enable the development of differentiated vehicles such as nanoemulsions, which besides the inherent stability, have pleasant sensory aspect, high spread ability and hydration power, in addition they can facilitate the penetration of actives. There are two methods of obtaining nanoemulsions: those that employ low or high energy of emulsification. The use of vegetable oils in cosmetics has been intensely valued, based on the concept that is safe and biocompatible. Passion fruit oil is widely used in cosmetic formulations and lavender essential oil is reported in the literature for healing and anti-inflammatory effects, among others. The aim of this study was to develop nanoemulsion based in passion fruit oil and lavender essential oil in the concentrations of 1.0, 2.0 and 5.0%, from low-energy method of emulsification, not employing heating, and evaluate the influence of the addition of other materials and parameters related to the production method in the system stability and droplets size of nanoemulsions and then evaluate the anti-inflammatory activity of topical nanoemulsion containing 5.0% of lavender essential oil in hairless mice. The results demonstrated that the addition of lavender essential oil in the system caused reduction in the droplets size and increasing in the physical stability and that the method of emulsification used was effective in the formation of stable nanoemulsions. The HLB value, the pair of surfactants, the ratio between aqueous/oily and surfactant phase, the addition of silicones and electrolytes and speed of agitation particularly affect the characteristics and stability of the obtained dispersions. In the accelerated stability tests, there was a significant change in the pH and electrical conductivity values, which is possibly resulting from the hydrolysis of compounds present in the essential oil. The values of zeta potential and droplets size showed no relevant change in 30 days of accelerated stability. In the in vivo evaluation, the nanoemulsion added of 5.0% of the lavender essential oil showed significant results when compared to the other groups, which suggests good perspective on topical use of this oil, which is worthy of further studies to the elucidation of the anti-inflammatory mechanisms involved, the phyto-chemical components responsible for this action and the concentration of use.

Les huiles essentielles (HE) de lavande et de lavandin appartiennent au patrimoine de la région méditerranéenne. Comme tout produit naturel ou synthétique à valeur ajoutée, ces HE doivent être contrôlées pour justifier la qualité du produit. Ce contrôle qualité nécessite la mise en place d'une méthodologie analytique fiable. Dans cette étude, une nouvelle approche utilisant les techniques spectroscopiques et chromatographiques et le traitement de données à l'aide d'outils chimiométriques permet de différencier les HE de lavande et de lavandin par origine variétale. Cette discrimination s'effectue grâce à leur empreinte spectrale ou chromatographique. L’intérêt d’utiliser la chromatographie chirale associée à la détection polarimétrique et de la signature chiroptique acquise a également été étudié. Cette étude nous a permis d’identifier des marqueurs métabolomiques qui sont primordiaux pour caractériser les variétés. Les résultats montrent qu'il est possible de discriminer les HE de lavande et de lavandin selon leurs variétés avec une bonne justesse sur l'ensemble des techniques utilisées. / Lavender and lavandin essential oils (EOs) belong to the heritage of the Mediterranean region. Like any natural or synthetic product with an added value, these EOs must be controlled to justify the quality of the product. This quality control requires the establishment of a reliable analytical methodology. In this study, a new approach using spectroscopic and chromatographic techniques for data processing associated to chemometric tools allows to discriminate lavender and lavandin EOs. This discrimination is carried out thanks to their spectroscopic or chromatographic fingerprints. The interest to use the chiral chromatography combined with polarimetric detection and of acquired chiroptical signature was also studied. This methodology has allowed us to identify metabolomic markers which are paramount to characterize the varieties. The results show that it is possible to discriminate the lavender and lavandin EOs according to their varieties with good accuracy on all of the techniques used.

No description available.

Les huiles essentielles extraites de plantes aromatiques, médicinales et à parfum, sont utilisées depuis des millénaires pour leurs propriétés médicinales ou olfactives. Pour des raisons de rentabilité, les distributeurs sont contraints à réduire leur coût au maximum et à commercialiser des huiles essentielles au plus bas prix. Certains ont recours à la fraude et proposent, des essences de qualité inférieure sous la dénomination produits naturels de haute qualité. Il existe des normes (AFNOR, pharmacopées) qui doivent être respectées. Mais leur seule application est souvent limitée. Cette étude a donc permis une nette amélioration du contrôle de la naturalité des huiles essentielles de citrus, et lavande. La connaissance des compositions moléculaires des volatiles et des polymethoxyflavones (citron), l'étude énantiomérique de molécules cibles telles que l'alpha-pinène, le sabinène (citrus), le linalol et l’acétate de linalyle (bergamote et lavande), les analyses isotopiques du carbone 13, deutérium, des linalol, acétate de linalyle (bergamote et lavande), citral, acétate de géranyle (citron) ainsi que les analyses isotopiques du deutérium et azote 15 du N-méthyle anthranilate de méthyle (mandarine) sont les analyses permettant la mise en évidence de nombreux types de fraudes. Pour une méthodologie efficace, les analyses en composante principale et discriminante ont été indispensables. Elles ont permis l’identification d’échantillons fraudés via l’étude des volatiles. Les analyses chirales et isotopiques permettent l'identification d'échantillon plus “ finement ” adultérés ou de mieux comprendre les processus de fraude / Essential oils extract from aromatics, medicinal and perfume plants, are used since ancient times for their medicinal or olfactory properties. They are quite expensive, and owing to the actual growing demand for getting high quality materials at lowest prices, fraudulent essential oils are frequently found on the market. In order to fight this problem, norms exist (AFNOR, pharmacopeas) which have to be respected. However those techniques are often limited. This work allowed great improves in the quality control of citrus and lavender essential oils. The knowledge of the chemical composition of volatiles and polymethoxy-flavones (lemon), of the chirale ratios of alpha-pinene, le sabinene (citrus), linalool et linalyl acetate (bergamot et lavender), isotope ratio analyses of carbon 13, deuterium, of linalool, linalyl acetate (bergamot et lavender), citral, geranyl acetate (lemon) as wall as isotope ratio analyses of deuterium of nitrogen 15 du Nmethyl anthranilate de methyl (mandarin) permitted the detection of various type of frauds. In order to have an efficient methodology, principal component and discriminant analyses have been proved indispensables. It allowed the identification of fraudulent samples via volatiles molecules study. Chirale analysis and isotope ratio highlight frauds on more “discrete” adulterated samples or a better understanding of adulteration’s process

Ce mémoire porte sur les transformations sociohistoriques du gayle en Afrique du Sud, une variété linguistique de l’afrikaans et de l'anglais, au répertoire lexical souvent improvisé. S’appuyant sur six mois de terrain ethnographique au Cap, ce travail se base sur des données (méta)linguistiques tirées d’observation participante ainsi que d’entretiens individuels et de groupe au sein de la communauté coloured. Je critique une perspective qui envisage le gayle comme une « anti-langue » (Halliday 1976), une méthode de communication secrète et exclusive à une communauté fermée. Plutôt, je suggère que le phénomène est mieux compris lorsqu’abordé en tant que registre d'une communauté de pratique (Eckert et McConnell-Ginet 2003). Mes entretiens révèlent son association historique et « enregistrée » avec la figure caractérologique (Agha 2007) de l’homosexuel efféminé coloured ou « moffie ». Toutefois, les participants expriment un malaise face à cette idéologie puisqu’ils sont conscients que cette construction « efface » (Gal et Irvine 2000) les locuteurs non canoniques du gayle. Au-delà de la description lexicale, mon analyse suggère des chevauchements entre les caractéristiques sémantiques et pragmatiques de la variété, toutes deux stratégiquement déployées pour invoquer des caractéristiques évanescentes et des attributs sociaux dans l’interaction (Butler 1990). Au même titre que les éléments du répertoire ne correspondent pas à des significations sémantiques fixes – mais plutôt à des réalisations discursives contingentes – l’utilisation du gayle ne se limite pas à des identités sociales statiques. L'appartenance à la communauté est plutôt marquée par l’utilisation légitime et la compréhension mutuelle de déviations lexicales créatives et contextuelles. / This thesis focuses on sociohistorical transformations of Gayle, a linguistic variety consisting of an often-improvised lexical repertoire superimposed upon either Afrikaans or English in South Africa. Based on six months of fieldwork in Cape Town, this thesis draws on rich (meta)linguistic data drawn from participant-observation, as well as individual and group interviews within the coloured community. I critique an 'anti-language' (Halliday 1976) perspective, wherein Gayle is seen as uniquely anchored to a closed community for which it serves as an exclusive, ingroup code. Rather, I suggest that Gayle is best understood when approached as the register of a community of practice (Eckert & McConnell-Ginet 2003). My interviews expose the historical and 'enregistered' association of Gayle with the racialized, gendered and sexualized ‘characterological figure’ (Agha 2007) of the effeminate coloured gay man or 'moffie'. This association serves as a backdrop to contemporary anxieties about the ways in which Gayle is mapped onto speakers’ social identities and perhaps shows the respondent’s consciousness that these formulations ‘erase’ (Irvine and Gal 2000) non-canonical users of Gayle. Moving beyond lexical description, I suggest overlaps between the semantic and pragmatic features of the variety, both strategically deployed to invoke evanescent characteristics and social attributes in interaction (cf. Butler 1990). Just as elements of the Gayle repertoire do not code for fixed semantic meanings – but are rather contingent, discursive achievements – Gayle does not 'code for' static social identities. Instead, it achieves group belonging in interaction through legitimate use and mutual comprehension of creative linguistic 'deviations' and 'subversions'

The ONE Exhibition explores an era in American history marked by intense government sponsored anti-gay persecution and the genesis of the LGBT equality movement. The study begins during World War II, continues through the McCarthy era and the founding of the nation’s first gay magazine, and ends in 1958 with the first gay Supreme Court case in U.S. history. Central to the story is ONE The Homosexual Magazine, and its founders, as they embarked on a quest for LGBT equality by establishing the first ongoing nationwide forum for gay people in the U.S., and challenged the government’s right to engage in and encourage hateful and discriminatory practices against the LGBT community. Then, when the magazine was banned by the Post Office, the editors and staff took the federal government to court. As such, ONE, Incorporated v. Olesen became the first Supreme Court case in U.S. history that featured the taboo subject of homosexuality, and secured the 1st Amendment right to freedom of speech for the gay press. Thus, ONE magazine and its founders were an integral part of a small group of activists who established the foundations of the modern LGBT equality movement.