Givet det ohållbara resursuttag som idag krävs för att tillgodose samhällets konsumtion, föreligger ett stort behov att övergå till en mer cirkulär ekonomi. En nyckelkomponent i denna övergång är att utifrån avfallshierarkin förbättra vår avfallshantering, exempelvis genom att se till att öka andelen som går till materialåtervinning och minska den som går till energiåtervinning. En strategi som föreslagits för detta är Product Service Systems (PSS), som till stor del går ut på att övergå till affärsmodeller med en högre grad av tjänstefiering, vilket innebär att en större del av värdeskapandet utgår från tjänster iställer för produkter.  Med hänseende på behovet av cirkularitet är detta synnerligen aktuellt för textilier. Till skillnad från många andra material som glas och papper, återvinns textilier nästan inte alls i Sverige. Däremot har vissa pilotprojekt etablerats på senare år, framförallt för att ta hand om svenska regioners sjukvårdstextilier då dessa flöden har en högre grad av homogenitet än konsumenttextilier. Med offentliga upphandlingsprocessens potential till förändring som utgångspunkt, genomfördes intervjuer med relevanta aktörer inom värdekedjan för textilåtervinning i tre regioner. Dessa intervjuer utgjorde ett underlag för att utreda huruvida en högre grad av tjänstefiering bör influera regionerna i deras upphandlingsprocess samt vilken roll övriga aktörer kan spela i skiftet mot en högre grad av textilåtervinning.  Trots en varierande grad av tjänstefiering i de tre regionerna fanns ett stort överlapp i vilka hinder och möjligheter till en ökad grad av textilåtervinning som identifierades, inte bara av representanterna för regionen utan även övriga aktörer. Ett brett konsensus fanns om att en informationsasymmetri mellan region och leverantör existerade, även om de föreslagna lösningarna på detta varierade. Många av de lösningar som föreslogs som svar på de identifierade hindren hade kommunikation som ett centralt tema. Trots att PSS ofta lyfts som ett sätt att facilitera kommunikation mellan aktörerna, tycks de varierande graderna av tjänstefiering i fallstudierna inte vara den avgörande faktorn för huruvida värdekedjan präglas av bättre förutsättningar för ökad textilåtervinning. Den kommunikation som värdekedjans aktörer efterfrågar, föreslås istället faciliteras av horisontell kommunikation mellan regionerna, där erfarenheter och insikter från innovativa upphandlingsprocesser kan dissemineras till andra regioner, samt genom vertikala kommunikationsplattformar där värdekedjans aktörer kan erbjudas insikt i varandras problemformuleringar och behov.  Vidare valde många aktörer att belysa värdet av långsiktighet i relationerna, något som Lagen om Offentlig Upphandling (LOU) i viss mån tycks utgöra ett hinder för, delvis på grund av de tidsmässiga avtalsbegränsningar som finns idag. Relaterat till detta ansågs även avfallstaxonomin utgöra ett hinder för etablerandet av cirkulära textillösningar. Dessa slutsatser påkallar behovet av att se över dessa lagar, framförallt utifrån ett cirkulärt perspektiv, till skillnad från det linjära perspektiv som präglade tiden då dessa utformades. / Given the unsustainable extraction of resources required today to meet society's current  levels of consumption, the urgency to move towards a more circular economy is acute. A key component in this transition is to improve our waste management in accordance with the waste hierarchy, for example by ensuring an increase in the share of material recycling. One strategy that has been proposed for this is Product Service Systems (PSS), which largely involves moving to business models with a higher degree of servicification, meaning that a larger part of the value creation is based on services instead of products.  With regards to this need for circularity, textiles are a particularly relevant topic. As opposed to other materials such as glass and paper, textile recycling is practically non-existent in Sweden today. However, some pilot projects have been established in recent years, primarily to handle the waste streams of healthcare textiles stemming from Swedish regions, as these flows have a higher degree of homogeneity than consumer textiles. With the capacity for change inherent in the public procurement framework used as a starting point, interviews were conducted with relevant actors in the textile recycling value chain for three regions. These interviews formed a basis for investigating whether a higher degree of servicification should influence the regions in their procurement process and what role other actors can play in the transition towards a value chain with a higher degree of textile recycling.  Despite a varying degree of servicification in the three regions, there was a considerable overlap in the obstacles and opportunities identified by the actors as important in the work towards an increased degree of textile recycling, not only by representatives of the regions themselves but also by other actors. There was a broad consensus that an information asymmetry between region and supplier existed, although the solutions proposed to this end varied. Many of the solutions that surfaced in response to the identified obstacles had communication as a central theme. Although PSS is often highlighted as a way of facilitating communication between actors, the varying degree of servicification in the case studies do not seem to be the decisive factor as to whether the value chain is conducive to an increased textile recycling or not. Rather, the type of communication that the actors in the value chain favored, were suggested to be facilitated by both horizontal communication between regions, where insights gained through the deployment of innovative procurement processes could be disseminated to other regions, as well as through vertical communication platforms where the actors in the value chain can acquire insight into each other's respective view of what difficulties and needs exist in the value chain.  Furthermore, many actors chose to highlight the value of long-term relationships in the value chain, which the Public Procurement Act (LOU) to a certain extent seems to discourage today, partly because of the constraints on the duration of the contracts between the supplier and the region. Additionally, the waste taxonomy was also considered to be an obstacle to the establishment of circular textile solutions. These conclusions call for a review of these laws, primarily from a circular perspective, as opposed to the linear perspective that characterized the time when they were drafted.

Fashion and textile upcycling is currently considered a time-consuming and labour- intensive process. Since textile waste materials are not readily available as a secondary raw material, the process of sourcing pre- and post-consumer textile waste usually requires a lot of time and effort, and often results in a high inconsistency in input materials. In consequence, upcycling operations are generally difficult to scale up. In order to address this issue, this research study aims to explore the current sourcing process of secondary raw material as well as the opportunities and challenges this sourcing process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material. In order to serve the purpose of this research study, semi-structured interviews with experienced professionals from five small and medium-sized fashion and textile upcycling companies have been conducted. The empirical data collected through the semi-structured interviews was analysed using an inductive approach of qualitative content analysis. The overall findings suggest that concerning the sourcing process of post-consumer textiles for upcycling, the identified opportunities for a B2B trading platform outweigh the challenges. However, pre-consumer textile waste is often provided in the form of an already upcycled yarn from fabric or garment suppliers which gives the impression that a B2B trading platform is less relevant in this case. Nevertheless, the empirical results might have been impacted by the small sample size and the strong focus on post-consumer textiles. Therefore, more research is necessary in order to understand how SMEs working with pre-consumer textile waste source their input materials for upcycling and which opportunities and challenges this potentially different process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material.

Master thesis is focusing on possibility of recycling waste from 3D prints. Goal was to degin a make lament extruder and winder. Design is based on research of avaible comercial and OpenSource solutions. The result is working machine with compact oor prejction, which is able to produce 110 grams of lament per hour. Deviation from diameter was ±0, 07. Conclusion place great emphasis on further improving and testing, beacuse it has not been reached limits of machine.

The ’upcycling’ term and concept have gained interest as a new strategy of implementing circularity within businesses, however the concept have not yet been defined, resulting in a somewhat divided perception of what it entails and what activities it includes. This misunderstanding may hinder the circular economy development. However, Standards have been discussed to add structure to the industry, concerning sustainable standards, they have been argued necessary in order to reach levels of necessary change. Thus, this study aims to explore what upcycling is, how such terminology is defined and standardized, furthermore how this might be a way to come closer to a circular textile industry. Together with a review of earlier research on standards, policies and around change in institutions, an in-depth literature review was conducted to depict the definitions on upcycling within different fields. Additionally, interviews were conducted with companies and ‘experts’ within the textile and fashion industry, investigating the industry’s perception on ‘upcycling’ along with standardization of such circular terminology. Findings of the study confirmed standards are an important way to reach a level of agreement enabling for a circular change. However, it existed split opinions on the definition of ‘upcycling’ and what activities that are in fact upcycling. Nonetheless most of the reviewed articles as well as respondents both amongst the companies as well as the ‘experts’ argued that it essentially means keeping value or adding value, financially and or value as material quality. However, concerning the activities and what the value adding activities are, it seems to depend in what state the discarded material or product are in. Hence it is important to evaluate before ‘upcycling’, making the process of upcycling more efficient, regarding material optimization, also financially more desirable, a win win. The thesis argues to provide with knowledge regarding the ‘upcycling’ concept, as well on the importance of agreed definitions through standards, how they are developed and how it encourages institutional change.

MENDING ON DISPLAY is an exploration of how to involve people in mending and have it be incorporated into everyday life. This was done through mending workshops, investigative conversations and a window display exhibiting visibly mended clothes. With all the devastating news reporting on how the planet is rapidly changing for the worse, it’s important to show that there can be joy in striving towards sustainable solutions, and moving away from current fashion culture does not have to mean compromising on your personal expression. The two main collaborations in the project are with the people interacting with it, and the secondhand store Busfrö. For this type of workshop to engage people in mending it needs to regularly occur, a routine space where one can join in for example once a month in the same place. These places exist already but few know about them, we need more of these initiatives in different contexts in order to spread the engagement in the craft. In my work I invited others to join through workshops, but I also felt welcomed into a bigger context and community network where mending is the binding force.

This paper is a research through design that answers the question: How can the by-products from hemp production be utilized to create a sustainable material for product design?Hemp is the commercial crop that sequesters carbon dioxide most effectively in the world, but large amounts of bast fibers and hurd emerge as by-products ater cultivation for seeds, flowers, and leaves. These by-products can be difficult for farmers to manage as they require space for storage and often must undergo a lengthy production process before they can be converted into products. The by-products of the hemp industry must be managed properly in order for the whole production chain to be considered sustainable.This paper explores theories like Upcycling and Design for Sustainable Development, so sustainability is always considered while managing these by-products. The research methodology encompasses interviewing six experts within the field of product design and hemp to comprehend the perceived difficulties and possible soultions. Material mapping, user tests and material tests are performed to develop a material from hemp fibres and stoneware clay. Additional user tests, market analysis, requirement list,braindrawing and prototypes are then implemented to ascertain what products that could be made from the hemp clay and how these shall be designed. These methods resulted in the contribution of design for the paper: HampaLampa (HempLamp), a hemp-lampfoot made with hemp clay and linseed oil paint as a surface treatment. / Studien är en forskning genom design som besvarar frågeställningen: Hur kan restprodukter från hampaproduktionen utnyttjas för att skapa ett hållbart material till produktdesign? Hampa är den komersiella grödan som absorberar koldioxid mest effektivt i världen, men det uppstår stora mängder restprodukter i form av fibrer och vedämnen när hampa odlas med frön, blommor eller blad som primärprodukt. Dessa restprodukter är svåra för lantbrukare att hantera då de tar stor plats att lagra och ofta behöver genomgå en lång tillverkningsprocess för att kunna användas i produkter. Hampaindustrins restprodukter behöver hanteras för att produktionskedjan skall förbli hållbar. Studien utforskar teorier som upcycling och design för hållbar utveckling, hållbarhet prioriteras ständigt när processen att använda restprodukterna utforskas. I Metodkapitlet intervjuas sex experter inom produktdesign och hampa för att inse vilka svårigheter och möjliga lösningar de känner till. Materialkartläggning, användartester och materialtester utförs för att utveckla ett material från hampafibrerna och stengodslera. Ytterliggare användartester, marknadsanalys, kravlista, braindrawing och prototyperutförs sedan för att utforska vilka produktersom hade kunnat skapas av hampalera och hur dessaskallutformas. Dessa metoder resulterade i designbidragetförstudien: HampaLampa, en hampa-lampfot skapad av hampalera med en ytbehandling av linoljefärg.

As the world becomes increasingly aware of the need to better care for the environment, innovative business models are helping to counter the damage of the fast fashion system - a phenomenon in the fashion industry whereby production processes are expedited in order to get new trends to the market as quickly and cheaply as possible. Designing products with a focus on their renewability can shift the product-consumer relationship. The closed loop concept of a “circular economy” is emerging as a viable and promising solution to the current linear business model. This study explores the possibilities of a more mindful approach to systems of production and consumption through material explorations using plastic from water bottles, paper from old newspaper and magazines, and fabric leftovers from pattern making within a circular economy. It considers the generative and renewable approaches in redefining how fashion engages with the components and raw materials of the industry. The research demonstrates a circular approach to the production of hospitality accessories in an effort to develop new intersections between products, materials, and consumers. The accessories are designed using discarded, reformulated denim–an abundant and underutilized byproduct of the fashion industry­–to reduce waste that currently occurs every time hotel chains and airlines produce disposable giveaway products from new materials.

Cette thèse s'inscrit dans le cadre du programme PentoRaf, dans la thématique « Transformation par voie chimique d'agromolécules en produits bioactifs ». Le travail de ce projet porte sur la synthèse de nouveaux azépanes tétrahydroxylés comportant un bras anomérique fonctionnel et sur l'évaluation des propriétés inhibitrices sur des glycosidases. La séquence réactionnelle a la particularité de valoriser les co produits issus du son et de la paille de blé.Dans une première partie, l'accès à un synthon polyfonctionnel, développé à partir des travaux précédents, a été réalisé avec des groupements protecteurs pivaloylés et méthoxyméthylés sur les hydroxyles communs aux sucres de départ (D-xylose et L-arabinose).La deuxième partie de ce travail consiste d'abord à introduire les différents groupements électroattracteurs : CO2Et, CN, PO(OEt)2, (CO2Et)PO(OEt)2 via une réaction de Wittig-Horner-Emmons. Les problèmes rencontrés lors de l'addition de l'allylamine ont clôturé les travaux sur la préparation d'azépanes avec un substituant phosphonate. Seuls les azépanes insaturés, comportant les fonctions : ester et nitrile, sont isolés.Une stratégie visant à obtenir les différentes distributions des hydroxyles (cis et trans) sur l'insaturation des azépanes obtenus est établie, dans une troisième partie, sur les composés fonctionnalisés avec un ester. Une réaction de déprotection finale donne ainsi accès à une famille de diastéréoisomères d'azépanes comportant un bras anomérique avec une fonction acide carboxylique, dont un composé a montré une activité biologique intéressante. Cette stratégie a été reproduite sur les azépanes comportant un nitrile jusqu'aux tétrahydroxyazépanes cis protégés. / This thesis is part of the PentoRaf program, in the theme “Chemical Transformation of agromolecules into bioactive products”. The aim of this project is the synthesis of new tetrahydroxylated azepanes containing a functional anomeric arm and the evaluation of their inhibitive properties on glycosidases. The reactive sequence advantageously values the co-products obtained from wheat bran and wheat straw.In the first part, the access to a polyfunctional synthon, developed from previous research, is carried out by protecting the common hydroxyl groups of the starting sugars (D-xylose and L-arabinose) with pivaloyl and methoxymethyl groups.The second part of this work is to introduce the various electroattracting groups: CO2Et, CN, PO(OEt)2, (CO2Et)PO(OEt)2 via a Wittig-Horner-Emmons reaction. The problems encountered during the addition of the allylamine ended our approach to prepare azepanes with a phosphonate substituent. Only the unsaturated azepanes containing ester and nitrile functions are isolated.A strategy is developed in the third part in order to achieve a specific distribution (cis and trans) of the hydroxyl groups on the unsaturation of the resulting azepanes by functionalizing these compounds with an ester. A final deprotection reaction leads to a family of azepane diastereoisomers containing an anomeric arm with a carboxylic acid function, among which one compound showed an interesting biological activity. This strategy was applied to azepanes containing a nitrile and lead to cis-protected tetrahydroxyazepanes.

In the last two decades a drive for sustainable fashion emerged, grew and ultimately failed. In its beginnings the boom of green fashion and the saturation of labelled so-called sustainable garments, followed by the realization that most of the labelling did not hold any consistency behind it, overwhelmed consumers and made them immune to the effects of green marketing. This occurred because of the approach the fashion industry took regarding the topic. They needed to sell their products no matter what, and if a green tag with a recycling logo and a “green is the new black” motto would help them, they would embrace it. However, after several scandals and inquiries about the validity of the sustainable claims advertised, consumers grew rapidly disappointed and eventually unconcerned, falling back into their usual consumption habits without regard for ethical and environmental aspects. Nevertheless, once uncovered, the issues emerging from the production of garments could not be hidden once again, and companies were then required to take regulatory measures in order to mitigate the effects of the industry, if only to satisfy the general public’s knowledge and perceptions of the brands. As is well known this is not yet standard procedure and the ideal scenario for sustainable fashion production is still a road that continues on, but a small battle was won in the sustainability agenda and corporate social responsibility is nowadays common practice within large enterprises, again, if only for the sake of their stakeholders view. The truth, however, proves to be that this is not enough. Of the main environmental issues caused by clothing, not production, but use and consumption proved to be the most critical points in the larger picture. The amount of water, energy and waste created by laundering alone poses one of the biggest threats to the sustainable fashion notion, as well as the ever increasing textile waste in landfills. These issues are related entirely to each individual user and their actions, but the endeavor of making the large public aware of this issue is being undertaken by several, relatively small enterprises both private and public that don’t seem to be succeeding according to the studies. The public is not going to voluntarily wake up and undertake the quest for consuming and disposing sustainably unless they become aware first of their actions, and are given enough infrastructure to do so. This thesis concentrates on the problematic of consumer awareness regarding both use and disposal phases as well as the existing or possible solutions that help mitigate the devastating effects on the environment clothing is causing nowadays. / Program: Master programme in Fashion Management

Today, textile products are designed with a “built-in obsolescence” to only last for a shorttime. The intention of this is to allow or even to encourage the customer to get rid of it assoon as possible and buy a new item. This has led to the discussed matter of increase indemand and hence overconsumption of textiles causing a lack of raw materials. Upcycling oftextile materials is a possible solution to this problem, where textile waste is re-used to makea new product. The purpose of this thesis is to view the penetrating power of upcycling oftextile materials and to define the potential of solely selling upcycled textile products. Up-todatetheoretical data has been collected together with three qualitative interviews withretailers and a manufacturer, all selling upcycled textile products. The potential of solelyselling upcycled textile products lies in the mind of the consumer and the dedication of thevendor. The younger generation makes a challenging potential and the emotional attachmentto the products generated by story telling and surprising factors contribute to this potential.The fact that the textile industry is facing severe challenges is also seen as a potential to covernew and substantial market shares.Textila produkter designas idag med ett inbyggt föråldrande med en kort livstid som syfte.Avsikten med detta är att tillåta eller till och med uppmuntra kunden att tröttna och göra sigav med produkten så snart som möjligt för att därefter köpa en ny. Den här processen harresulterat i det diskuterade ämnet om efterfrågeökning och överkonsumtion av textilier, sominnebär en råvarubrist i textilindustrin. Förädling (upcycling) av textila material är en möjliglösning till det här problemet, då textilavfall återanvänds och görs till en ny produkt. Syftetmed den här uppsatsen är att studera genomslagskraften upcycling av textila material har ochatt genom det kunna definiera vad det finns för potential att enbart sälja upcyclade textilaprodukter. Aktuell teoretisk information har samlats in tillsammans med tre kvalitativaintervjuer med två återförsäljare och en producent av upcyclade textila produkter. Utsikterna iatt enbart sälja upcyclade textila produkter ligger i kundens sinne och hos säljarens hängivelsetill fenomenet. Den yngre generationen utgör en utmanande potentiell målgrupp, och denkänslomässiga relationen till produkten som erhålls genom att förmedla historien bakomprodukten samt produktens överraskningsförmåga innebär möjligheter. Det faktum atttextilindustrin står inför allvarliga utmaningar ses också som en möjlighet att täcka nya ochomfattande marknadsandelar. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen